Oslo & the East

Oslo, Oslo & the East, Walking Guides
Exploring Oslo’s Old City Christiania: Self-Guided Walking Tour
- September 8, 2021
- 1 Comment
- by Emma
Self-Guided Walk: Christiania in Oslo

Christiania was the name of Oslo between 1624 and 1925. The name came from King Christian IV, who made the big decision after a fire in 1622 to move the whole city from its original location to be close to the Akershus Fortress. He laid the city out in a grid pattern (the area is called Kvadraturen, which refers to the grid layout), and designated certain blocks for certain purposes. And so, Christiania was built.
Many of the original buildings are now gone, but some still stand, albeit many are heavily renovated. Still, Christiania is a fascinating place to walk through and learn about how the old city of Oslo functioned.
On this self-guided walk, I’ll show you the buildings still standing, the story behind them, and try to give you an idea of what Christiania used to be.
A Brief History of Christiania
Christiania was established as a replacement of the old city of Oslo in 1624, after a huge fire had swept through the original city. Oslo stood a few kilometres to the east, but King Christian IV wanted the city to be closer to the Akershus Fortress. The ruins of the old city still stand at the suburb called ‘Gamle Oslo’.
The streets were built very wide, and the city was surrounded by ramparts to better protect itself. Additionally, all the houses were to be built in brick as a modern fire measure. However, most people were still too poor to build in brick, so wooden houses or half timber houses were constructed. The plots of land within Christiania were distributed to the citizens free of charge, but were allocated according to wealth and status.
The walled city of Christiania didn’t last long: after a fire in the 1680s the ramparts were no longer used and the city began to see unregulated expansion outside the walls. The city’s population rose steeply after the union with Denmark ended, and more modern buildings were built in Christiania to show off the city as a capital, including the palace, parliament and university.
By the early 20th century, the area of the original Christiania was a quiet business activity and no longer the centre of the city. In 1925, the city got its original name of Oslo back. Today, Christiania is distinctive on all maps of Oslo thanks to its grid pattern. It’s known as ‘Kvadraturen’ on maps, which refers to the grid pattern.

Oslo Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide

In this article...

Downloadable Version of This Guide

We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store.

View at the Store
Online Guide

Information about points of interest

Images of each point of interest

Historic overview of the neighbourhood

Directions between points

Historic photos

Information about facilities along the way

Downloadable Guide

Information about points of interest

Images of each point of interest

Historic overview of the region & towns

Directions between points

Historic photos

Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
The online guide is a summarised version of the downloadable guide. Some points of interest are only included in the downloadable guide.

Christiania Self-Guided Walk

Christiania Torv

This is the centre of the old town of Christiania. When Christiania was completed, the Holy Trinity Church stood on this site. It was the first public building to be completed in the old town, and by it would’ve been the market. The market was used on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and farmers would gather to sell their goods. The annual winter market in the first few days of February was also held here. Farmers came from all over Eastern Norway with butter, hides and venison. In the square was also the gauntlet and a ‘kag’ – a cane with a neck iron. Here the criminals were whipped and shamed.
The Holy Trinity Church used to stand here. It was a Renaissance building with four clocks and a richly decorated interior. Sadly, the church wasn’t even completed before it was struck by lightning in 1686. The bells of the church melted, and the nave was ignited. The fire destroyed about a third of Christiania, the northernmost part – which was the poorest area and mostly wooden houses – being the worst affected.
The church wasn’t destroyed during the fire, but it was decided to tear it down anyway because Akershus Fortress wanted an open field in the area and the church was blocking the firing range of the fortress. The Holy Trinity Church was demolished, and the site was left unused. What survived of the church was moved to the Oslo Cathedral when it was completed.

Christian IV's Glove

The statue in the middle of the square is called Christian IV’s glove and is by Wenche Gulbransen. It’s supposed to represent Christian’s decision to move the city here.

Anatomigården

This is one of the few remaining half-timbered houses in Christiania. The exact age of the property is unknown, but it is believed to be from the early 1700s. The name Anatomigården refers to the fact that the Faculty of Medicine had its anatomical hall here.

Rådmannsgården

This is one of the oldest buildings in Oslo and the best-preserved building in Christiania. It was likely built around 1626 in a Dutch/Danish Renaissance style. It used to be much larger but has undergone many changes over the years. The building was built for councillor (rådmann in Norwegian) Lauritz Hansen. Today there is a restaurant inside.

Gamle Rådhus

This is Christiania’s first town hall (Rådhus in Norwegian). The building dates to 1641, though it has undergone many changes over the years. For example, it used to have a tower, but it was torn down in the 1700s. The original Renaissance gables are also gone.
In Christiania, the town hall functioned as both a meeting place for councillors but also a gathering place for the towns bourgeoise. Kristiania was ruled by two mayors and 12 councillors appointed by the sheriff of Akershus Fortress. In the cellars were a detention room and a prison for convicted criminals.
The building was in bad condition throughout the 18^th and 19^th centuries, and over those years it was a Masonic Lodge. In 1983, it became a restaurant called “Det Gamle Raadhus”.

Revierstredet

The name comes from Revieret, a canal that was excavated in the area in the 17th century.
The dark brown building that you’ll follow along Revierstredet and then later onto Kongens gate is the oldest building you’ll see on this street. It was built in 1638 for a town bailiff and eventually became an orphanage. While it was an orphanage, 50 kids would be here. The women had to do yarn spinning, while the boys did carpentry. On the side, you can see the initials MHS and UMB, who were for the original owner’s Mads Haraldssøn and Annichen Mecklenburg. Parts of the property are among the first to be built in Christiania when the city was founded. The stone tablets in the wing towards Nedre Slottsgate indicate the building is from 1638, and according to the city antiquary in Oslo, this is Oslo’s oldest known building. There are traces of an even older building on the plot. The date 1640 on it is likely from an extension.

Bankplassen

The square comes from Norges Bank, which was built here in 1828. It is now used by the Museum of Architecture. You pass it on your right as you head into Bankplassen.
The square was renovated in 2016 for Norge Banks 200^th anniversary. The square got new light poles using historic luminaires.
The Christiania Theatre was located on Bankplassen from 1837 to 1899. Cafe Engelbret quickly became a permanent place for many artists. The theatre was torn down to make way for Norges Bank, whose new building opened in 1900.
You can see Cafe Engelbret at the other end of the square.

Cafe Engebret

The restaurant is named after the founder Engebret Christoffersen, who started the restaurant in 1857. It moved here in 1863 and has undergone very few changes. The building is from 1760.
The Engebret Movement, a network of female journalists in Oslo, took their name from the place. They existed for 10 years and the goal was to promote female journalists in the business. The network worked for gender equality through the Norwegian Journalists Association. They wanted equal pay and better working conditions.
Café Engebret was popular for many artists because the old Christiania Theatre was located here from 1837 to 1899. Engebret became a permanent place for many artists. The theatre was torn down to make way for the second Norges bank building, which opened in 1900.

Kongens gate

This is one of the original streets of Christiania, laid out in 1624. If you turn right instead of left, you’ll see the road leads to the fortress. Most of the part we are walking through has been rebuilt over the years, with the buildings here from 1638.
Kongens gate 6 is from 1915. It is considered Norway’s first modern business building.

Tollbugata 19

Head into Tollbugata to look at building number 19.
This building is a small apartment building from 1687, though it has some parts on it that are older. The irons on the side of the building are beautifully decorated.

Prinsens gate 18

You’ve now made it to the north of Kvadraturen. On your right is a white building – this is Prinsens gate 18. It is the oldest house on Prinsens gate. It is from 1640 and was originally one floor but was later extended to two floors. Andreas Tofte, who was Oslo’s first mayor (1837-38), lived and ran a business here from 1824 to 1848.
In 1989, the property was severely damaged after a pyromaniac lit the building. The owner chose to restore the building, but it was upgraded to today’s standards. During the work, ceiling decorations from the 17^th century were uncovered and restored

Prinsens gate

Prinsens gate is a 600m long street that runs through Kvadraturen. The street is mostly modern office buildings. Most were replaced after a large fire in 1858 destroyed 40 buildings. The buildings were rebuilt with businesses in mind, mostly because by this point fewer people were living in Kvadraturen. Historically, there were several pubs here and the street was very well known for its social activities. Halvorsen’s patisserie on Wessels plass has been running in the same place since 1881.

Kirkegata

The street, which means “Church Street”, runs from Bankplassen to Stortorvet, where Oslo Cathedral is today. It was originally called Prindsens gang and got its current name when Oslo Cathedral was completed. Originally this was a street for the rich, but after the fire of 1858 many properties were rebuilt for businesses. In the 19th century, this was the city’s main thoroughfare.

Rådhusgata 11 / Statholdergården

You’ve now made it to the north of Kvadraturen. On your right is a white building – this is Prinsens gate 18. It is the oldest house on Prinsens gate. It is from 1640 and was originally one floor but was later extended to two floors. Andreas Tofte, who was Oslo’s first mayor (1837-38), lived and ran a business here from 1824 to 1848.
In 1989, the property was severely damaged after a pyromaniac lit the building. The owner chose to restore the building, but it was upgraded to today’s standards. During the work, ceiling decorations from the 17^th century were uncovered and restored.

Rådhusgata 10, 12, 14

This building was originally three small properties that were constructed at the end of the 1620s. They have all undergone changes through the years – they were last restored in 1980 and incorporated into Norges Bank.

Grev Wedels Plass

This is a lovely park that was laid out in 1869. The name comes from Herman Wedel-Jarlsberg (1779-1840), who was the president of the Storting (parliament), an ironworks owner, county governor, and finance minister.
After Akershus was closed as an active fortress in 1818, the area was turned into a government quarter. The Parliament and the Supreme Court were initially going to stand here, but it was banned by military authorities in 1836. The Park opened instead in the 1860s and quickly developed a bad reputation for hosting illegal activities. In the 1930s, it was paved over and turned into a car park. During World War II, the square was used for barracks and shelters. In 1988, the park was reconstructed and reopened.
The red building to your left is from 1840. The white building across the street and to the right is the Army Depot, a warehouse building designed in Empire Style from 1828. Further down is an orange building – this is Ridehuset. It was originally a stable but opened in 2007 as a concert venue. There’s an entrance to Akershus Fortress by Ridehuset.

Gamle Logen

The building on the opposite end is Gamle Logen. It was built in 1839 as a Masonic Lodge and banquet hall. Several events have been held in this building, such as a special dinner for Fridtjof Nansen and his crew after their first Fram trip. Until World War II, it was also a popular concert venue. Edvard Grieg (there’s a bust of him outside), Ole Bull, Johan Svensen and Halfdan Kierulf have performed here. After World War II, the building was used as the Court of Appeal, and this is where Vidkun Quisling was sentenced to death on the 10^th of September 1945. It was also used as a canteen by Oslo’s dock workers. After extensive rehabilitation, it reopened in 1988 as a concert and cultural venue.

Military Hospital

Now you can see the Military Hospital. It is a beautiful wooden building from 1807 and was originally built as a hospital for soldiers. As Denmark-Norway was heading into the Napoleonic Wars, a new hospital was needed. After Norway became Swedish in 1814, it was a general hospital for the public, which it remained until 1883. It was then dismantled and taken to the Norwegian Folk Museum, where it sat in storage until 1983. Now it’s back at its original spot.

Garmanngården

At the corner of Rådhusgata and Dronningens gate is a beautiful red home. It is Garmanngarden, one of the city’s oldest standing buildings. Parts of the building are from 1622 (before Oslo burned in 1624), though most of the building is from 1625-1630. The anchors on the building have the date 1647, which is probably when the building got its current appearance. For its first 100 hours, the building was the residence of important men in Oslo, such as Land Commissioner Johan Garmann (where the property got its name from) and Governor Just Høeg.
The building was given to the city by King Chrisitan VI as the new town hall in 1734. It was also used as a courtroom, a meeting room for the magistrate, a theatre, concert and party room. There was also a police station, detention facilities and a prison.
Today the building is used by the Society for Oslo Byes Vel, which is a historical association that promotes the city’s history. All those blue signs on old buildings are managed by Oslo Byes Vel.

The War School

This building was established in 1804 to train officers for the Norwegian army. The students received a five-year education. Most of the cadets were listed, and the majority were the sons of officers. The school provided insight into military technology, general education, physical education, and military education. This is one of the world’s oldest military academies that has been in continuous education.

Posthallen

Across the street is ‘Posthallen’. It was built between 1914 and 1924 as Oslo’s main post office. Today the building is used as shops and apartments – the post office moved to a different building in 2004.

Pascal Patisserie

Diagonally across from the Military School is Pascal Patisserie, a very famous place for sweet treats. There has been a patisserie here since 1650. Sadly, the original building burned down and wasn’t rebuilt until 1870. The interior is left fully untouched from 1895.
The current owner is the ninth owner of the patisserie. It is Pascal Dupuy, a French pastry chef who came to Norway in the 1980s and opened his patisserie in this building in 1995. Pascal Dupuy has gained international recognition for his products, and he is considered one of the world’s best confectioners. He even has a show on Norwegian television that follows him educating his staff and creating unique pieces for special events.
There are multiple Pascal patisseries around Oslo, but this one is the one to visit. They serve French-inspired lunch dishes plus many good desserts. You can also admire the original interior, the glass roof, and a fresco painted by Åsmund Stray in 1895.

Treschowgården

This building was built for Gerhard Treschow, an immigrant from Denmark who became the customs officer in 1683. He ended up becoming one of the city’s largest factory owners with sawmills, brickworks, a paper mill, oil mill, and soap factory. He bought the property in 1710. For a while, it was the Cathedral School, and then it was a hotel. Today it is an office building for the Fred Olsen shipping company.

Oslo Stock Exchange

This building was built for Gerhard Treschow, an immigrant from Denmark who became the customs officer in 1683. He ended up becoming one of the city’s largest factory owners with sawmills, brickworks, a paper mill, oil mill, and soap factory. He bought the property in 1710. For a while, it was the Cathedral School, and then it was a hotel. Today it is an office building for the Fred Olsen shipping company.

Customs Office

This is the customs house. There have been five customs houses on this site – the first one was built by Gerhard Treschow in the 1680s, but it was replaced by the next customs officer, Frantz Jørgensen. He wanted his own customs house, so had it designed to his taste. The site used to be on the pier, but it was filled in 1957-1960.
Frantz’s customs house was so rotten by 1770 that it was torn down and replaced. However, in 1785 a huge fire destroyed the pier area, customs house included. In 1790 mason and architect Hans Christian Lind built a new customs house, now number 4. It was torn down and replaced in 1895. That building is the one we see today.

Customs Warehouse

This is a customs warehouse from 1915. Behind is the Tollpakkhuset, a customs warehouse from 1915. It now houses the Norwegian Customs Museum. The museum has all the uniforms spanning 350 years, plus all the stuff people tried to smuggle into Norway – this alone makes for a very entertaining visit.

Oslo Opera House

You’ve now reached the library/Oslo Opera House area, with the Central Station on your left. I hope you enjoyed this walk around Christiania!

Enjoy More of Oslo

Visit the travel guide page to see road-trips, restaurants, and top activities that you can do.

Oslo Travel Guide
Geilo, Hallingdal, Oslo & the East, Stave Churches
Seeing Double at Torpo Stave Church
- January 11, 2021
- 0 comments
- by Emma
Seeing Double at Torpo Stave Church

If you’re driving on the E7 between east and west Norway, Torpo Stave Church is one of the best roadside stops on the eastern side. The town of Torpo itself is a little sleepy and lacking in things to do, but the stave church is a true highlight. After all, it is one of the oldest stave churches in the country. It is the only preserved stave church in the traditional district of Hallingdal. It’s unique as the new church stands immediately next to it. It creates this intriguing juxtaposition between old and new church architecture in Norway.

I have been to Torpo Stave Church a few times; I always make an effort to have my groups see it when we are driving on the E7. However, in September 2020 on my road-trip, I decided to make a quick stop there to take some photos. The church wasn’t open due to it being off-season. Still, I got some great photos of the outside and did a little research on the church.

Here’s what you need to know about Torpo Stave Church for your visit.

In this article...

The Rv7 Highway

You can reach Torpo Stave Church by taking the Rv7. You can find my guide to theRv7 by clicking the link below.

The Rv7 Highway

Geilo Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide

One of the oldest stave churches in Norway

Visiting Torpo Stave Church

An early photo of the two churches together // Thomhav, C. Christensen (1857-1937) // Riksantikvaren

There is a little back and forth about when Torpo Stave Church was built. Some say it was constructed around 1160, others say it may be closer to the end of the 12th century. In any case, it’s certain that Torpo Stave Church was the first church in Hallingdal and is the only preserved church. It’s also believed there was an older church on this site before the stave church, furthering the importance of Torpo Stave Church.

According to a rune inscription, a man named Torolf built the church. A person with the same name is listed as the builder for Ål Stave Church. Ål is the next town over if you’re driving towards Oslo. Its stave church was torn down. The plank with the rune inscription is in the Historical Museum in Oslo, but you will see other inscriptions on the church. If you take a guided tour, the staff will highlight it. At the time, Hallingdal (the valley) belonged to the diocese of Stavanger. There is a rumour that one of the bishops of Stavanger is buried under the church, but it is just a rumour.

There is another stave church surviving from Hallingdal, Gol Stave Church (Gol is a major town on the E7). However, Gol Stave Church now stands at the open-air museum (Folke Museum) in Oslo. There used to be many more churches in the valley, but they were all demolished at one point or another.

Torpo Stave Church (My Photo)

Changes from the Reformation onwards

After the Reformation, when Norway went from being Catholic to Lutheran, all stave churches underwent huge changes. Common for all churches is the addition of pulpits and pews. Windows were added later on. All the windows on Torpo Stave Church are from the 17th century. In the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries the church was richly decorated. When the Preservation Society bought the church, they removed these decorations.

From 1725 onwards, Torpo Stave Church had private ownership.

Details of the tarring on the church exterior

Preservation for Ancient Norwegian Monuments takes over

In 1851, Norway introduced a new law that affected stave churches. The law required that all churches have enough seating for 30% of the village’s population. Towns tore down their stave churches, as they didn’t meet the requirement. After all, we only have 28 of the original 1,000 remaining. In 1875, Ål Municipality took over Torpo Stave Church with plans of renovating it to accommodate the new law. When the Preservation for Norwegian Ancient Monuments heard of this, they knew it would damage the church’s original appearance. So, they set out to buy it. They tore down the choir while financial negotiations were underway. In 1880, the Preservation purchased the church. They took out all the post-Reformation decorations and kept everything in the remaining church original.

Gorgeous detail around the portal

Similarities to other stave churches

Today, only the nave (central part) of the church is remaining. In the nave, you’ll see the original 14 pillars holding up the saddle roof. Inside, it looks very similar to the torn-down stave church as well as the stave churches in Sogn, particularly Borgund and Kaupanger. It’s believed that Torpo improved the construction method of Urnes Stave Church and took elements from Borgund Stave Church.

Photo credit: Nina Aldin Thune / kunsthistorie.com

Richly painted decorations

The choir, which was demolished shortly before the Preservation bought it, had rich paintings. Luckily at the time, the paintings were in the nave, saving them. The vault had richly decorated paintings depicting Christ, the Apostles, and the legend of St. Margaret, who the church is dedicated to. This vault is the most famous part of Torpo Stave Church. It is some of the oldest decorative paintwork in Norway.

Torpo Stave Church (My Photo)

Torpo Stave Church (My Photo)

The exterior

If you don’t want to pay for entrance to the church, or perhaps you arrive off-season as I did, you are still in for a treat. Dragons, vines and animal heads decorate the portals. A bell tower stood next to the stave church; this is common of many stave churches – bells were too heavy for the supporting beams. However, it is gone due to the new church. The small wooden building across from the church was a room for the church people; it was the only place with heating. Still today, Torpo Stave Church is without electricity and heating.

The new church

Torpo built a new church in 1880. It is in a Neo-Gothic style and seats 200. In the 1970s, parts of the stave church’s choir were found under the new church. The new church is still in use and is not part of the admission to Torpo Stave Church.

Information sign out the front

Visiting Torpo Stave Church

Location & Parking

The stave church is located in the village of Torpo, which is off the E7 between Bergen and Oslo. At this point, you’re roughly halfway between Geilo and Gol, which will be on all the yellow roadsigns indicating how far away the next town is. You get a glimpse of the stave church from the highway, but it’s best to turn off and visit it properly. There are brown tourist signs on the highway pointing in the right direction, so it’s hard to miss it.

Considering the popularity of this church, there’s very little parking. There is a small parking lot across the street, but I am unsure how busy it will get in the summer months. Please note that there is a private home next to the parking lot; don’t park in their space! They have signs up saying “privat” or “private”.

Opening Hours & Admission Fees

Typically, the church is open every day from the beginning of June to the end of August from 10am to 6pm. There’s a sign out the front indicating its opening hours, and you can find up-to-date information here.

There is an admission fee of 70 NOK to enter the church (up-to-date info can be found here).

Bathroom facilities are at the church, but there is no food/drinks place. You can get food and drinks from the Joker supermarket down the road.

Travel Suggestions

If you are thinking of staying in the area, I’d recommend staying in Geilo. Gol is a little industrial, whereas in Geilo you’ll get all the charm of Norway’s oldest ski town. Torpo Stave Church is a 30-minute drive east of Geilo and a 15-minute drive west of Gol. However, the detour is quick enough that you can still drive all the way to Bergen or Oslo.

When we did this drive, we had left the Numedal Valley, had lunch in Geilo (so many good options) and were then making our way to Fagernes, where we spent the night. The following day, we went on the Valdres National Tourist Road – there are more stave churches in the area!

Visitor info for Geilo can be found at the bottom of my Numedal Valley page (click here).

Tell me what you think!

Have you visited Torpo Stave Church or do you have any questions for me? Let me know in the comments 🙂

The Rv7 Highway

You can reach Torpo Stave Church by taking the Rv7. You can find my guide to theRv7 by clicking the link below.

The Rv7 Highway

Geilo Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide
Numedal Valley, Oslo & the East, Stave Churches
Uvdal Stave Church
- December 7, 2020
- 1 Comment
- by Emma
Uvdal Stave Church

The Numedal Valley contains the best-preserved collection of medieval buildings in Norway. When driving from Kongsberg towards Geilo, you’re treated with gorgeous views, ancient farms, and many stave churches. Four, to be precise. The last one before Geilo is Uvdal Stave Church, and much like the others, it doesn’t disappoint.

Compared to the other stave churches (Flesberg, Rollag and Nore), Uvdal is high on the hillside. Moreover, it is still surrounded by ancient farm buildings. This church was in use until the late 19th century when the town built a new church further down the valley. The new Uvdal Church looks exactly like a stave church, so don’t get the two mixed up!

In this article...

The Fv40 Highway

You can reach Uvdal Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below.

The Fv40 Highway

Geilo Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide

History of Uvdal Stave Church

Like the other churches in the valley, the exact date is unknown. However, it’s believed Uvdal is from around 1169 thanks to the dating of the timber used in the construction. Much like Nore, it is a single nave stave church with a central mast. The mast is to hold up the tower with the bell, and these two stave churches are unique in Norway. Also, like the other churches, there are remains of a previous church underneath.

In 1978, archaeological excavations found a large number of objects. They found 552 coins: 44 are from 1177-1202 (the reign of King Sverre), 40 are from 1200 and 120 are from 1217-1263 (the reign of King Håkon). Textiles and other objects were also found. One of the most interesting discoveries is a pilgrims mark of St. Olav on a wall. It’s from the 13th century and is interesting as this is not a pilgrims church or on the way to Nidaros Cathedral, where Olav is buried.

In written material, Uvdal is first mentioned in 1327.

Expansion & Renovations

The original stave churches were very small, and over the centuries they became impractical. Because of this, they have been constantly expanded, renovated, and redesigned. For Uvdal, it’s almost as if each century has added something to the church.

The first extensive renovations came after the Reformation in 1537. Between 1651 and 1682 Knut Jørgensen Winter was a parish priest in the valley. He came from Denmark and had big plans for the Rollag, Nøre and Uvdal stave churches. In the 1650s the church got a flat ceiling, and in 1656 the interior was painted. Furthermore, in 1684, the church got an extended chancel. In the 1720s and 1730s, further extensions changed it into a cruciform church (cross-like floor plan).

Exterior Decoration

In 1760 the exterior got panels; before then, it was bare timber. The church has always been covered in tar, as are all stave churches.

One of the most interesting aspects of the church is its western portal, or western entrance. It is richly carved from the late Middle Ages and includes a depiction of Gunnar. Gunnar is the lead character in the Volsungesaga, a pre-Christian saga based on ancient Germanic myths.

Gunnar depicted on another stave church

In the story, Gunnar murders his brother-in-law and hides his gold. Atle, the King of Hunaland, wants Gunnar to tell him where the gold is. So, Atle ties Gunnar’s hands behind his back and throw him in a snake pit – a common theme in old sagas. Gunnar manages to play a harp with his feet, and all the snakes fall asleep. Well, except for one, who kills Gunnar, but still. Gunnar is a hero! When Gunnar dies, Atle is unable to ever learn the hiding place of the gold. Gunnar in the snake pit is a very popular motif in Norwegian and Swedish medieval art, and snakes are found all over stave churches.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9vMyCQCP24

Interior Decoration

In 1760 the exterior got panels; before then, it was bare timber. The church has always been covered in tar, as are all stave churches.

One of the most interesting aspects of the church is its western portal, or western entrance. It is richly carved from the late Middle Ages and includes a depiction of Gunnar. Gunnar is the lead character in the Volsungesaga, a pre-Christian saga based on ancient Germanic myths.

Gunnar depicted on another stave church

In the story, Gunnar murders his brother-in-law and hides his gold. Atle, the King of Hunaland, wants Gunnar to tell him where the gold is. So, Atle ties Gunnar’s hands behind his back and throw him in a snake pit – a common theme in old sagas. Gunnar manages to play a harp with his feet, and all the snakes fall asleep. Well, except for one, who kills Gunnar, but still. Gunnar is a hero! When Gunnar dies, Atle is unable to ever learn the hiding place of the gold. Gunnar in the snake pit is a very popular motif in Norwegian and Swedish medieval art, and snakes are found all over stave churches.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9vMyCQCP24

Interior Decoration

The oldest decorations inside the church are from 1656. However, most of the decoration comes from the period 1721-1723 and the painting style is Rococo. Rich decorations of flowers and vines cover the interior. The artist (or artists) is unknown, but it’s clear inspiration came from European art.
Parts of the medieval floor are preserved. Until 1620, the only light came from portholes high up, but that year two windows were put in. The pews were added in 1624. It’s not clear when the church got its pulpit and altarpiece, but they were there in 1656.

The most interesting interior item is no longer inside the church. It is a 30cm high crucifix of bronze and enamel. It came from Lingoes in France and was made during the 13th century. It’s not known how a French object made its way to this remote valley. Today you can see the crucifix in the Cultural History Museum in Oslo.

The church today

Uvdal Stave Church was taken out of use in 1893 when the new church was completed in the new village centre. Services occasionally take place here in the summer, but mostly the church is a museum piece. It’s probably lucky the village was built up in a different location, otherwise, the stave church may have been torn down.

Visiting the church

You can visit Uvdal Stave Church throughout the year, but it’s only open in the summer months.

The church is open daily from the beginning of June until the end of August. Tickets cost 80 NOK for an adult.

Up-to-date opening hours and admission fees can be found here: https://www.stavechurch.com/uvdal-stave-church/?lang=en

The Fv40 Highway

You can reach Uvdal Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below.

The Fv40 Highway

Geilo Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide
Numedal Valley, Oslo & the East, Stave Churches
Nore Stave Church
- December 1, 2020
- 1 Comment
- by Emma
Nore Stave Church

Nore Stave Church is the third church you’ll pass if driving up the medieval Numedal Valley from Oslo towards Geilo. And, like its neighbours, it has unique qualities. What makes this church special is that its floor plan is unknown in Norway. It is an original cruciform church. In comparison, the other stave churches were rebuilt as cruciform churches much later. Additionally, Nore Stave Church is well decorated. Its interior is special in so many ways.

In this article, I explore what makes this church so special. This includes its history, architecture, and decoration. At the bottom you’ll find some info on visiting the church.

In this article...

The Fv40 Highway

You can reach Nore Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below.

The Fv40 Highway

Geilo Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide

History of Nore Stave Church & Nore Community

Nore is a tiny village located along the Norefjord, a lake that continues on from the Numedal River. On the west side of the lake is the original settlement, including farms and the church. On the east is the main road through the valley. The bridge is from 1930; before then, the locals had to take boats across. The word ‘Nore’ comes from the Old Norse ‘nore’ meaning “narrow sound or strait”, referring to the lake. Nore stave church is south of the main town.

What about the church? Well, its age is somewhat unknown. Looking at the wood, it’s believed that the church is from some time after 1167. The portal is the same age as the one found in Flesberg, which is from between 1163 and 1189. The centre mast in Nore was felled in the winter of 1167/1168, and it’s believed they built the church with fresh wood, likely in the following summer.

During an archaeological excavation, archaeologists found coins under the floor. In total there are 276 coins, and 24 of them from Håkon Håkonsson’s reign (1217-1263).

The unique building style of Nore Stave Church

The floor plan of Nore Stave Church is unique. It is built as a cruciform church with an even floor plan; a style unknown in any other church in Norway. The big question is whether it was originally built as a cruciform church, or if later builders added the arms. In other stave churches, the cruciform floor plan came much later. Stone churches in Norway didn’t have this floor plan either. The closest similarity is a church in Kalundborg, Denmark, built in the late 12th century. It’s pretty much unknown where this Norwegian builder took inspiration. Other stave churches may have had this style, but they are all gone. After all, there are only 28 stave churches remaining of the original 1000.

There’s lots of evidence for age of the floor plan. First off, the staves in the middle walls are younger than the corner staves, likely from the 15th century. Still, there are grooves in the staves indicating that the centre mast (the large vertical beam in the middle of the church) is from the original construction. Therefore, it is likely that the younger staves were added to reinforce or repair the church.

The Centre Mast (Source)

In the middle of the church is its central mast, a large vertical beam. It supports the tower (turret) on top of the church. While the tower is from 1730, the central mast is dated to the original stave church. This suggests that there has always been a tower on the church, it was simply replaced later on. The tower and central mast had to be strong enough to support and ring the church bells. It is uncommon to find a tower on a stave church; often the church bells were kept in a separate building as their weight was too much for the stave church.

The uniqueness of the architecture has given the style the name “Nummedals-type”.

Nore Stave Church around 1930 (Source)

Renovation in the 17th & 18th centuries

Like many stave churches, especially the ones in Numedal Valley, Nore underwent huge changes between 1650 and 1750. The first renovations added the chancel, transepts, western porch and sacristy. Only the nave (the middle of the church) is in its original form.

The overall construction is complex with bits of the old and the new scattered around the church. Still, the main structure of the stave church is original and in tact. Moreover, builders reused older parts of the church in newer constructions.

Saving Nore Stave Church

Like many other stave churches in Norway, Nore was old and in desperate need of repair in the 19th century. The locals wanted a newer and larger church. There was interest in demolishing the stave church. However, in 1888, art historian and author Lorentz Dietrichson (1834-1917) purchased the church. He had a major role in founding the Society for the Preservation of Ancient Norwegian Monuments (Fortidsminneforeningen) and donated Nore Stave Church to the Society in 1890.

Nore Stave Church Today

Restoration Work

The last comprehensive restoration was done in 1927, after the Society took over. At this point, the church was leaning strongly and had to be straightened. Some beams were replaced due to rotting. The terrain under the floor had to be levelled.

The interior of Nore Stave Church (Source)

Medieval Crucifix (Source)

Interior & Exterior Decoration

Nore Stave Church is beautiful both inside and out – sounds like a motivational poster! But seriously, the decoration of this church makes it special.

The decoration is from all time periods. For example, under the pulpit and to the west of the nave are remains of benches from the Middle Ages. These were the only seats; before the Lutheran Reformation you had to stand in the church. The seats were for the old and the sick. There are two rune inscriptions in the church, one being a prayer saying “grant me all that is good.”

Most of the medieval inventory is gone, except for the baptismal font. There are two carved crucifixes in the church and they are from the 13th century. They’ve undergone some surgery over the years, though. One got a new face and the other got new arms and a thick second coat of paint!

Lots of images and sketches of the church can be found at snl.no (click here)

Most of the decoration is from 1650-1750. The wall paintings are mostly from this time, and the paintings depict Bible verses, leaves, flowers and fruit. The decoration is very like Flesberg, which is from the same period. The altarpiece is a copy of the one in Kongsberg Church, also like Flesberg. The portal on the porch is decorated with animal and plant imagery. There are also two winged dragons (a pagan symbol) that have wound their necks around each other. Above the portal is a large plate with embossed lions that holds the Danish/Norwegian King Frederik IV’s crowned monogram. Below the monogram is the date “1723”.

Stave Churches were not built with windows. If anything, they had tiny circular windows. After all, glass was not common in Norway at the time and it can get very cold in the winter! The windows on the church were added to the church in the 17th century.

Grave of one of the priests of Nore Stave Church.

Surrounding Cemetery

The cemetery is older than the church. Archaeological excavations show that an older burial ground stood under the church. Two medieval tombs were found under the church, and one theory is that it was the builder of the church and his wife. The graves were sunken and the area was levelled by filling in the graves.

It’s believed that another church stood here before the present church, but it was in a slightly different position. The oldest graves are to the south than those from the time of the stave church. The older church may have had a different orientation.

The cemetery is surrounded by an old stone fence. The village road used to pass through the graveyard. On the north side is a stone slab with an iron ring to tie a horse on.

Visiting the church

The church is open from mid-June to mid-August every day between 10am and 6pm. Tickets cost 70 NOK for an adult. The up-to-date information can be found here.

There are brown tourist road signs pointing to the church and it can be seen from a distance, so it’s fairly easy to find. Just follow Fv40 (the main highway through the Numedal Valley) and turn off to cross the bridge.

There is a parking area in front of the church (free).

The Fv40 Highway

You can reach Nore Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below.

The Fv40 Highway

Geilo Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide
Numedal Valley, Oslo & the East, Stave Churches
Rollag Stave Church
- November 27, 2020
- 1 Comment
- by Emma
Rollag Stave Church

Rollag Stave Church is the second church along the road in the historic Numedal Valley. The valley has the largest number of medieval wooden buildings in Norway. If you drive up the valley from Kongsberg to Geilo, you’ll pass many of these ancient buildings.

The stave church is just off the highway and north of the village of Rollag. Moreover, while it has undergone many changes since it was built, it’s still well worth visiting.

In this article...

The Fv40 Highway

You can reach Rollag Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below.

The Fv40 Highway

Kongsberg Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide

History of Rollag Stave Church

An old photo of Rollag Stave Church. Likely early 20th century. (Source)

It’s believed the first church in Rollag stood here around the second half of the 12th century. Moreover, the church we have today may be the second one on the site. Rollag Stave Church is in documents from 1425. The church is older than that, though.

The most famous parish priest is the Danish Knut Jørgensen Winter. He came from Jutland in 1651 to be the priest and his first task was to rebuild the church. Winter first painted the inside and added benches and windows. He also had a new choir and altarpiece built. On the outside of the church, he had the monogram of Christian V placed on the wall. The church is unique for its heavy Danish influence.

Later restorations expanded and changed the church dramatically. During the last restoration, attempts were made to bring it closer to Winter’s 17th century church.

Architecture

Rollag Stave Church is a single nave simple stave church. This is the most basic type of stave church construction. It has a square nave. It has four outer corner staves supporting the structure.

In 1660, Rollag was rebuilt as a cruciform church, which was the style of the time. Cruciform churches have a floor-plan of a cross. Almost everything was replaced, though the original staves are still in place. They are just hidden under the modern construction. Further expansions took place in the 17th and 18th centuries. The nave is longer, the church received a porch, and the roof was raised.

The last major restoration took place in 1932. They brought the church back to an earlier style.

While there isn’t much of the original church left, Rollag is still regarded as one of the most beautiful rural churches. A unique feature of the church is that every generation has left their mark. They have expanded and rebuilt the church as they needed, demolished and painted walls. They have added and removed bits from the church to suit their needs.

Exterior Decoration

Much of the exterior is from the 17th/18th century restoration. The windows, tower, and extensions are not from the original stave church. If you are looking for the original church, it’s the core centre.

A unique feature of the church is the monogram outside. The outer wall monogram of Christian V is from 1697. The board also has the inscription ‘IHS’ at the top (Iesus Hominum Salvator – Jesus, Saviour of Men). This monogram is the first carved in wood in the Numedal Valley.

Exterior door decoration

Interior Decoration

If you are lucky enough to see the inside of the church, you’re in for a treat. Rollag Stave Church is generally regarded as having one of the most beautiful interiors.

The decoration is a mix of every generation that has passed through the church. There is art from the early Middle Ages through the baroque and rococo periods right up to the modern day.

Rollag Stave Church interior (Source: LokalHistorieWiki)

Benches were never inside stave churches. In Catholic times, you had to stand up and listen to the service, which was in Latin. Benches are a Lutheran addition. Also, the service was in Danish in the Lutheran times.

The interior is richly painted. For example, on the choir you’ll see depictions of foliage and exotic fruit. These paintings represent the fruits of paradise. Interestingly, the paintings are Catholic motifs that they painted during Lutheran times. Additionally, the altarpiece has a relief of the eucharist. This is a casting of a silver relief found in Frederiksborg Castle Church in Denmark.

The pulpit is the first rococo artifact in Numedal. Most importantly, it has one panel for each of the four evangelists. The fifth panel has the inscription “Painted in 1763 by E. Dram”. He worked on decorations in Kongsberg Church and Veggli Stave Church.

In the 1770s, all the interior wall decorations were painted over in blue paint. They were uncovered again in the 1932 restoration.

What makes this church different than others?

I find this church is unique when it comes to its Danish influence. Not architectural influence, but rather the decorations both inside and out.

Around the church

The stone wall around Rollag Stave Church

In the cemetery you’ll see an old stone wall. Some stone slabs have a rather ring for horses. Moreover, the birch trees were planted along the wall in 1936. Some graves are from the early 19th century. The church used to have a tomb cellar under the choir, but it was filled in with sand in 1870.

Also in the cemetery, close to the Christian V monogram, is an ancient stone cross. It’s not known when this was placed here or why. One theory is that this site was an ancient gathering place for Christians before they got a church. Close by is the historic Rollag farmstead, and it’s known that churches were built on the wealthiest properties.

Close by is the Rollag Vicarage. It has six buildings and is heritage listed. The oldest part is from 1630, and the bishop’s home is from 1720. It still is the parish priests residence and is therefore private property. Just south of the church is the disused Numedalsbanen.

The church today

Rollag Stave Church is still owned by the congregation and still functions as the parish church. Every other Sunday from March to November, the congregation comes here. The villagers are very proud of their church, and rightly so!

During the summer months, between mid-June and mid-August, the church is open to the public daily from 11am to 5pm.

Visiting Rollag Stave Church

When driving on the Fv40 (the main road through the Numedal Valley), you’ll see the turnoff for the church – it’s marked as a brown sign. Note that it’s in Norwegian, so it says “Rollag stavkirke”. The church is 6km off the main highway, and you drive through beautiful farmland. The road you’ll drive on is Rollagsvegen, and you don’t need to go back to this turn-off after visiting the church. I recommend following Rollagsvegen until it rejoins the Fv40. It’s such a beautiful drive.

You will see a tiny parking place when approaching the church, but if you drive past it you’ll reach a larger parking lot. Parking is free.

Links

Church of Norway website: https://kirken.no/nb-NO/fellesrad/Rollag/kirker/rollag-stavkirke/

Medieval Week in the Numedal Valley + Visitor Information: https://middelalderuka.no/index.php/en/stavkirker/rollag-stavkirke

The Fv40 Highway

You can reach Rollag Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below.

The Fv40 Highway

Kongsberg Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide
Kongsberg, Numedal Valley, Oslo & the East, Stave Churches
Flesberg Stave Church
- November 24, 2020
- 1 Comment
- by Emma
Flesberg Stave Church

Flesberg Stave Church is the first stave church you’ll pass when making your way up the historic Numedal Valley from Oslo towards Geilo. However, it doesn’t really look like a stave church. That’s because it was extended in the early 18th century. They removed most of the stave church. Still, there is a story with this church, and it’s well worth a stop on your Numedal road-trip. Here’s my overview of Flesberg Stave Church.

In this article...

The Fv40 Highway

You can reach Flesberg Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below.

The Fv40 Highway

Kongsberg Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide

The original stave church

The first written description of Flesberg Stave Church is from 1359. It’s believed the church is from the latter half of the 1100s or the first half of the 1200s. The church was a single nave church with four-free standing internal posts bearing a central raised roof. It is the stave church category ‘churches with elevated naves’, in the same category as churches like Borgund, Gol, Lom and Kaupanger.

We know what Flesberg used to look like. Luckily, one of the first-ever paintings of a stave church is of Flesberg from 1701, shortly before it they rebuilt it. From this, we can see how much Flesberg looked like the churches mentioned above.

Flesberg Stave Church in the 1930s (Source)

Rebuilding the church

The priest in the 1730s, Johannes Berthelsen, complained the church was too small. So, they made plans to expand the church. In 1735, the chancel and aspe, as well as the east nave, were removed. They added two transepts. The new church was a cruciform plan. The new additions were not built in the stave style, but rather the modern horizontal log style. In 1792, they rebuilt the roof.

The stave church choir was torn down. Moreover, the middle poles were removed. It’s not known how many poles stood here, but there are traces of corner bars.

The only part of the original stave church is on the western side.

Stave decorations

On the west portal you can see stave decorations. You’ll see carved vines and animal ornamentation. These are only tiny remnants of the original decor.

Today Flesberg has little in common with the other stave churches. There are so few indications of the original church.

Churchyard

The churchyard is fence with slate from the Haukeli farm on the west bank of the Lågen River. Some slates have iron rings attached to them; this was for the horses. The oldest ring is from 1661.

The stone fence is shown in the 1701 painting. The fence is at least that old.

Outside the church you’ll find some very old gravestones. Moreover, there is also a blue plaque saying that elections took place at this church in 1814. This isn’t unique; many churches in Norway have this blue plaque.

Restoration Work

They did an extensive restoration in the 1870s, but it did no favours for the stave part of the church. The National Heritage Board did a new renovation between 1955 and 1965. This renovation brought the church back to its 18th century appearance.

Exterior decoration

The western portal of the ship is where you’ll find some exterior decoration. The entrance has two lion figures above it. The posts on either side of the doorway are richly decorated with carved vines and animal ornamentation.

Interior. From Wikipedia.

Interior decoration

The interior of the church is well known. It’s not open to the public all the time (see below), so there is a chance you won’t be able to see inside. I didn’t get the opportunity to see inside, but I still think it’s worth putting an overview here.

The interior of the church is redecorated to look like the church did in 1735. There are very few remains of its medieval era. The whitewashing on the walls was removed in the 1950s. They discovered decorative paintings from the Middle Ages. Some fixtures date back to the Middle Ages, including a bell and the baptismal font. Otherwise, the pulpit is from the 1600s and the chandeliers are from the 18th century. The 1701 painting of the church is inside.

Flesberg town

Flesberg is a sleepy community with little opportunities for shopping or sightseeing. This is partly because the town is close to Kongsberg, a large and famous Norwegian town known for its historic mines.

The name Flesberg comes from an old farm. The Flesberg Stave Church is built on the farm. This is very common in small towns in Norway. They built churches on the richest farms, and eventually the farms became the towns. Fles means ‘rock’ and berg means ‘mountain’.

Today around 1,172 people live in Flesberg. Forestry and agriculture are the main industries. Many people in Flesberg commute to nearby Kongsberg.

Visiting the church

Flesberg is open throughout the summer (late June to early August) on Tuesdays – Fridays and Sunday fro 12pm to 5pm.

Tickets are 35 NOK pp.

The Numedal Valley, which is the best preserved medieval valley in Norway, has a Medieval Week. If you happen to be in Numedal during Medieval Week, the church is open every day from 12pm to 5pm.

Flesberg is still an active church for the community.

Flesberg is located on the Fv40 highway that connects Kongsberg to Geilo in central-eastern Norway. It is marked with brown signs saying “Flesberg stavkirke”.

We parked across the street, where there is a large parking area.

The Fv40 Highway

You can reach Flesberg Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below.

The Fv40 Highway

Kongsberg Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide
History, Oslo, Oslo & the East
The History of Oslo
- April 6, 2020
- 1 Comment
- by Emma
The History of Oslo

The history of Oslo is truly fascinating. While today the city is very modern and there may seem like there are few traces of its beginnings, there are hints of history everywhere.

Here’s my summarised history of Oslo!

In this article...

Oslo Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide

Humble Beginnings

Oslo is one of the oldest places in Norway; the area around the Oslofjord has been inhabited since the last ice age due to its rich agricultural land. The oldest settlements date back to the Stone Age and the Bronze Age. Historically the area was called Viken, which means ‘the bay’.

It’s believed that the Oslofjord was an important place for the Vikings; this is mostly because three Viking ships have been found in the area. These are now on display at the Viking Ship Museum. The first church, St. Clements Church (Klemenskirken), was built in Oslo around the year 1000. Sadly the church is no more; its ruins can be seen in the Middelalderparken just outside the city centre.

Medieval Oslo. Akershus is on the bottom left. The hilly area to the right is Ekeberg.

Oslo wasn’t officially founded until 1049. It was founded by King Harald Hardråde (Harald Hardruler), but it was his son, Olav Kyrre (Olav the Peaceful, who also founded Bergen), who set up a cathedral and a bishopric. Oslo wasn’t where it is today; rather it was founded closer to the region around Ekeberg and where the Barcode is today (the region called Gamle Oslo (Old Oslo) highlights this).

Mariakirken Oslo

Throughout the 12th century, cathedrals and a cathedral school were built around the city. This includes Mariakirken, which would’ve looked similar to the church in Bergen. Sadly, like St. Clements, only its ruins remain.

At the time it was Trondheim that was the capital of Norway. In 1219, the capital moved to Bergen. It wasn’t until 1299 that Oslo got its title as the Capital of Norway.

The Capital of Norway

In 1299, King Håkon V decided to move from Bergen to Oslo, and with that, the capital moved. He cemented the city’s status as the capital when he had the Akershus Fortress built in 1299.

Everything changed in 1350 when the Black Plague came to Oslo. Around half of the town’s population passed away, and the churches began to lose income. This is around the time that the Hanseatic merchants came in to take over trade, and the churches fell into ruins.

The entire country had lost a lot during the Plague, and because of that, it was forced into a Danish union.

Danish Union, Fires, and Kristiania

The Kalmar Union put the three Scandinavian countries together in 1380, and during this time trade in Oslo was dominated by Hanseatic merchants and the town had little going on.

In 1536, the Danish and Norwegian union became a formal coalition, and the capital proper was now Copenhagen – though Oslo remained a symbolic capital. Due to the Reformation, in which Norway converted from Catholic to Lutheran, many of the old churches (most of which were already deteriorated) were destroyed by the Danes to make way for Lutheran churches. There are many ruins of churches in Gamle Oslo (the old town) today.

In 1624, the city changed forever. A massive fire burned for three days, destroying most of the city as it was built in timber. After the fire, King Christian IV of Denmark decided that, rather than rebuilt the old city, he was going to move it and build a whole new city and name it after himself. So, he did. And so Kristiania was born. At the time, it was spelt Christiania, but from 1877 it was spelt Kristiania.

A statue of Christian IV pointing to where he wants Christiania

Inspired by contemporary city planning, Kristiania was laid out in a grid close to Akershus Castle. The architecture of the time was Renaissance, and there are glimpses of this style still visible in the old centre of Kristiania. Akershus Fortress was also modernised and converted into a renaissance castle by Christian IV. All citizens and shops were strongly encouraged to move their businesses and homes to the new city, and they did. Around this time, the lower classes started to settle a little out of the city, near Vaterland and Grønland near the Old Oslo area.

Oslo’s first town hall from 1641

The area of Oslo today called Kvadraturen (the quadrature) is where King Christian IV moved the town. The oldest buildings in Oslo can be found here, including Kristiania’s first town hall and the oldest restaurant, Cafe Engebret.

It wasn’t until the 18th century that Kristiania started to see true growth when the (constant) wars between Denmark and Sweden boosted the town as a major shipbuilding and trading port.

Christiania in 1814. The fortress is visible out on the peninsula.

Christiania Self-Guided Walk

I’ve written a self-guided walk for Christiania so you can explore the old town independently.

Oslo's Old Town Self-Guided Walk

19th Century Capital & Growth

In 1814, when Norway left the Danish union and was forced into a personal union with Sweden, Kristiania was re-instated as the capital. The 19th century was a period of massive growth for Kristiania; with its status back, several state institutions were established including the Bank of Norway (1828), the Royal Palace (1848) and the Storting (1866). In 1859, many of the surrounding areas were incorporated into Kristiania – including Old Oslo, which at the time was just called Oslo.

Karl Johans Gate 1890

The population increased dramatically in the 19th century – from 10,000 in 1814 to 230,000 in 1900. Finally, Kristiania overtook Bergen in terms of population. There was a spectacular building boom during the end of the 19th century, and many new apartments were built around the city centre.

Akerselva 19th century

Industry also rose dramatically in the 19th century, especially along the Aker River (Akerselva). Various industries were here, but they were primarily timber and fabrics. This is due to the number of waterfalls on the river, which gave power to numerous industry companies in Oslo.

Downtown Oslo (Stortorvet) in 1926

Oslo Returns

The city and municipality used the name Kristiania until 1 January 1925, when the name was changed back to Oslo. The reason the name was changed is because, after Norway became completely independent in 1905, the locals thought it was inappropriate to have the capital named after a Danish king.

World War II

During the Second World War, Oslo (like the rest of Norway) was occupied by German forces. Oslo was one of the first cities in Norway to be occupied; on 9 April 1940 the German ships made their way down the Oslofjord, and while the fortress Oscarsborg was able to sink a major warship and delay the occupation long enough for the King and government to escape, the city was occupied later that day.

Parliament with a German sign & Nazi flag flying

During the war, the main headquarters for the Germans was Victoria Terrasse, a beautiful building close to the Royal Palace. It was in this building that officers held the interrogation centre for all prisoners in Oslo, and the place became synonymous with torture and abuse. On occasion, prisoners jumped out of windows to their death while waiting to be interrogated. Allied bombers tried to destroy it twice, but missed and hit civilian targets.

Karl Johans Gate

All ships carrying Jews left for mainland Europe from the Oslofjord, and the German Army executed members of the Norwegian resistance groups at Akershus Fortress. After the war, eight Norwegian traitors who had been tried for war crimes were executed at the fortress, including Vidkun Quisling.

Modern Oslo

Oslo 1971

After the war, Oslo’s City Hall was finished in an area that had previously been a slum. This was also where Aker Brygge was revitalised between 1982 and 1998 and built up as a modern suburb.

Oslo’s postwar absorption of surrounding towns and suburbs gives us the sprawling city we see today. However, despite this growth, it wasn’t until the discovery of the Ekofisk oil field on Norway’s Continental shelf, that the economy of Oslo changed for good. Oslo transformed into one of the world’s wealthiest and liveable cities.

Oslo is the most ethnically diverse city in Norway, with 40% of the population first or second-generation immigrant.

Terrorist attack 2011

In 2011, Oslo was hit by a terrorist attack carried out by a right-wing extremist. A bomb was detonated in the Government quarter, damaging several buildings including the building that houses the Office of the Prime Minister. Eight people were killed in the attack. The terrorist then disguised as a police officer and killed 69 Labour party-affiliated activists on the island Utøya, about 45 minutes out of the city.

Oslo Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide

Oslo City Centre Self-Guided Walk

I’ve written a self-guided walk for Oslo so you can explore the major highlights of the city.

Oslo City Centre Self-Guided Walk