Jæren

  • Dalen, Egersund, Jæren, Road-trips, Scenic Drives, Southern Norway

    Drive it Yourself: Egersund to Dalen

    Drive it Yourself: Egersund to Dalen

    Looking for an alternative road to the mountains, bypassing the tourists, highways and seeing the secret beauty of Norway? This drive is perfect. I know, the Egersund to Dalen drive is not the most commonly suggested route in Norway, but it is worth the consideration. Both towns are very cute and scenic with plenty to do, and they are separated by a beautiful valley and mountain range that you’ll pass.
    On this page, you’ll find practical info outlining what you’ll see between the two towns, plus where you can stay and what you can do. Be sure to watch my own drive, where I’ve put together a timelapse with information. 
    If you have done this drive, or have any questions for me, let me know in the comments. 

    In this article...

    View Our 'Ultimate Norway' Road-trip

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Egersund to Dalen

    Egersund

    Egersund is a charming small town on the south coast of Norway. It has lots of wonderful shops and cafes, making it a perfect place to stop on your road-trip. 

    Egersund Travel Guide

    Trollpiken

    Rock Formation

    Trollpikken is a unique and strange rock formation in Norway. In the last few years, it has gained popularity due to its, well, shape. ‘Pikk’ is a relatively new word in Norway that translates to ‘dick’, and as you can see in the image, the name describes what locals have come to recognise the formation as.
    Trollpikken made the news in 2017, when it was vandalised and severed off using power tools. The locals were saddened by this and a crowdfunding campaign raised an incredible 226,000 NOK and within two weeks the rock was reattached (watch the video on the left!). One person was arrested for vandalism.
    Since this incident, there was more effort made in promoting Trollpikken. It’s got its own website now (click here), which goes over the history, folklore, and practical info of the site. There are road signs leading to the large carpark, and the walk to the monument is well marked with modern signs. The name is also recent; it’s only from 2017.
    For those interested in geology, the rock is anorthosite. This is a very rare type of rock that’s found on the south-western coast of Norway and the moon. Yes, the moon! When astronauts were training for going to the moon, they came here to practice collecting rock samples. Trollpikken is 12m (39ft) high.
    It is relatively easy to hike to Trollpikken, and the info can be found here: https://ut.no/turforslag/1113153/trollpikken

    Helleland

    Village

    Helleland is a small village just outside Egersund. The language used here is nynorsk rather than the commonly used bokmål. The Sørlandet train connection between Oslo and Stavanger runs through (and stops at) Helleland.
    Helleland Church is from 1832. It is built in wood and has seats for 500. The architect was Hans Linstow, who also designed the Royal Palace and Karl Johans gate in Oslo.
    In Helleland, there are memorials dedicated to the British aircraft which crashed during the occupation of Norway by Nazi Germany in connection with the Operation Freshman sabotage attempt, part of an action that was aimed at the Vemork hydroelectric plant, site of heavy water production. Furthermore, there is a cave in the forest which was used as a hiding place during World War II. People who had kept illegal radio equipment hid in this cave, and the Germans never discovered them.
    You’ll find a grocery store in Helleland (Coop). 

     

    Terland Klopp

    Bridge

    Terland Klopp was built around 1800 as a stone slab bridge. With 21 runs and 60 metres, it is considered the largest in the Nordic region of this type. The bridge crosses the river Gyaåna, which we are following on this road. The valley we are in is called the Gyadalen Valley.
    Terland Klopp has not been in use since 1977; today it is a listed monument. It is considered the best-preserved bridge of this kind. 

    Agder County

    We now cross over into Agder kommune. Originally, Agder was a medieval petty kingdom that governed itself until Norway was unified into one Kingdom. The name Agder was not used between 1662 and 1919; it was reinstated after the counties Aust-Agder (East Adger) and Vest-Adger (West Adger) were established. Since 2020, those two counties were merged into one: Adger. 

    Sirdal Municipality

    Tonstad

    Village

    Welcome to Tonstad! The name means “Tone’s Farm” and is a typical small town name; towns were often built around farmsteads where the church was located. The church here is Tonstad Church and it’s from 1852. It seats 300.
    The town has a large hydroelectric power station and a large ski centre. In fact, Tonstad has one of Norway’s most modern biathlon facilities, and it is known for producing many highly regarded biathletes. The local high school uses the facility for training.
    Tonstad is located on the northern end of the Sirdal Lake. In July, the boat ‘Snorre’ does tours of the lake every Wednesday. A guide on board tells you the stories and local legends, as well as some tales of Vikings from the Norse Sagas. 
     At Tonstad you’ll find road signs leading to Kjerag, a famous natural monument and hiking trail.

    Dorgefossen

    Waterfall

    Dorgefossen is a regulated waterfall, though it is more like a gorge. Due to the water regulations, the waterfall is much smaller than it used to be.
    An old legend from Sirdal tells that death row inmates got one last chance to save their lives by jumping over Dorgefoss. If they managed to do so, they would be free. If they did not succeed, the fall of the waterfall and the rapids fulfilled the death sentence.
    It is possible to swim in the river, but without warning water can be released from the pond, making the water colder than normal.
    By the road, there is a picnic area with restrooms and information boards. The road we drive over goes over the waterfall via the Dorge Bridge. The bridge is from 1919.

    Sinnes

    Village

    Sinnes is a small village located in the upper part of the Sirdal valley. There are two ski centres here: Ålsheia and Tjørhomfjellet. Together, they make the largest alpine facility in southwestern Norway.
    Several alpine and cross-country competitions are held in the area. The largest one is Sesilåmi, which is a 52km long ski run.
    Sinnes is a popular cabin area for people from Stavanger, Sandnes and Jaeren.

    Setesdalsheiene

    Mountains

    The mountains to the north are called Setesdalsheiene. Just north of them is the Hardangervidda plateau, while the Ryfylke mountains lie to the west. The highest point is 1,300m (4,300ft). Wild reindeer herds live here.

    Håhellervatn

    Lake

    The lake on our right is Håhellervatn. The total walking distance around the lake is 6km (4 mi).  
    On the east side is a cave called Håhelleren. It has a lot of stories associated with it. After the Napoleonic Wars, two families moved to the area. They first settled in a fisherman’s hut, and then built a home. Their main job was to keep the road clear and shelter road users in bad weather. They were unable to grow grain on the site, but they did try to grow potatoes, though without luck. After living here for 26 years, they realised it was not such a great place to live and they moved to Sirdal. After their house was torn down, road users used the cave for shelter if need be. Today there is a tourist cabin on the sight, and up to 16 adults can take accommodation in the cave.

    Valle Municipality

    Valle
    town

    Valle is the first major town we’ll pass after crossing the mountains, making it a good place to stop.  We have now entered the traditional district of Setesdal; it’s a valley (dal) that up until recently was very isolated. The name Valle comes from the farm where the church was built. There used to be a stave church on the site called Hylestad stave church; sadly it was torn down in the 19th century to make way for a new church. Fortunately, the portal carvings were saved and are on display at the Historic Museum in Oslo. They illustrate the legend of Sigurd Favnesbane (Sigurd the Dragon Slayer), who is described in the Prose Edda and Beowulf saga. An important historic site is Rygnestadtunet, an old farm. It was built by Vonde-Åsmund (Asmund the Evil) in the mid-1500s and has been well-preserved. Today it is an open air museum, where the interiors reflect the period around 1919. Around the farm, grave findings indicate that the site was settled as early as 900AD.  As mentioned above, Valle was incredibly isolated. To get out via the north, travellers had to follow the river and take a path on a torturous steep cliff face. This was the only way out until the 1870s. Today, the European Highway 9 (E9) crosses through the valley and under the torturous mountain thanks to a nice tunnel.  Valle is known for its ancient silver smitheries. Today, the local high school specialises in silversmith and goldsmith training. Students from all over Norway and abroad come here to train to become jewellers.

    Sylvartun Museum

    Museum

    Sylvartun was the central silversmith and folk music arena in Setesdal valley. Exhibitions in the museum focus on musical instruments and the visualisation of music and dance traditions in the valley.
    Visitor information can be found here. 

    Store Bjørnevatn

    Lake

    We pass a large lake called Store Bjørnevatn. It’s about 15km (9 mi) north of Valle. The elevation is 801m (2,628 ft) above sea level. 

    Skafså

    Town

    Skafså is a small town known for its mountain farm Grimdalen. Today it’s a museum with farm buildings from the time of barter economy in the 17th century.
    Famous sculptor Anne Grimdalen is from here, and there’s a gallery with 300 of her sculptures here.
    Skafså Church is from 1839. There used to be a medieval crucifix standing outside the church; this is now at the Vest-Telemark Museum.

    Dalen

    This drive ends in Dalen, a small town located on the westernmost endpoint of the Telemark Canal. The Telemark Canal goes all the way to Skien on the coast of Norway – originally the canal was used for industry, but today it is more popular with tourists.
    When the canal was completed, it was referred to as the ‘eighth wonder’. Ferries were able to link Telemark with Oslo through the canal and then Oslofjord.
    Dalen Hotel is a famous historic hotel; it is one of the best preserved hotels from the 1800s. The hotel was built with the opening of the Telemark Canal in 1892. When it opened, it became popular with European royals.
    During the occupation, it was a resort for German officers. Most of the interior was stripped and sold for parts. The building fell into disrepair.
    After the war, the building was bought by singer and evangelist Aage Samuelsen. The hotel got a lot of attention and was restored in the 1980s. The hotel reopened in 1992. In 2000, the hotel won the Europa Nostra award for outstanding conservation.
    The architecture is a mix of Swiss chalet with national romanticism and Dragestil, a type of Norwegian architecture inspired by Viking and medieval art.
    A night at the hotel starts at 3,000 NOK, with rooms going up to 8,300 NOK.

    Dalen Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Telemark

    Take the scenic drive through Telemark from Dalen to Kongsberg.

    Telemark Scenic Drive

    Previous Drive

    Jaeren Tourist Road

    Travel down the southern coast on this scenic, beachy road. 

    Jaeren Tourist Road

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “Ultimate Norway”. You can read about the whole drive below. 

    View Our 'Ultimate Norway' Road-trip

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Jæren, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Southern Norway

    Jæren Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Jæren Tourist Road

    Jæren is a traditional district in Rogaland county, south of Stavanger. The landscape characterises the area; Jæren is the largest flat lowland area in Norway. Unlike most of Norway, the coast here is flat with no islands and very sandy beaches. The word ‘Jæren’ (almost pronounced like Yeah-en if you make ‘Yeah’ very nasally) is from the Old Norse Jaðarr, which means ‘edge’ or ‘brim’. It’s a common word found in Norway; around 30 farms have this name. It refers to the coastline. Until the 20th century, Jæren was spelled ‘Jaederen’, which is Danish. You can still see this word in some places.

    This drive is part of our ultimate Norwegian road-trip. Click the button below to view the whole drive. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The Drive: Jæren Tourist Road

    Sola Strand Hotel

    Hotel

    Sola Strand Hotel is located just outside Stavanger city centre, close to the airport and Sola Beach. Alternatively, you could start at Sola Ruin Church or Domsteinane, mentioned below. If you are staying in Stavanger, I recommend stopping by ‘Swords in the Rock’ before you leave. The video above begins at Sola Strand Hotel and stops at Domsteinane first. 

    The Sola Strand Hotel is a great hotel to stay at – it’s right on the beach, has all the facilities of a resort, and is the starting point of this drive!

    Domsteinane

    Historic Site

    Domsteinane is a unique place in Norway. It’s often nicknamed ‘Norway’s Stonehenge’ because of the unknown status of why the rocks are laid out this way.

    Read my separate guide to Domsteinane below. 

    Domsteinane

    Detour: Ølberg Camp

    WWII Site

    Ølberg Camp (Ølberg Leir) is a disused military camp primarily for the storage of ammunition. The camp was established by occupying German forces in 1940 in connection with their military activity at Sola. Sola Airport was a civilian airport, but under German occupation it had important military use. For security reasons, they placed the aircraft ammunition at a separate camp away from the airport. This is the Ølberg Camp.  The camp consists of ammunition houses, bomb shelters, and storage sheds. The ammunition houses are simple timber buildings. The bomb shelters are between these structures. Nearly half the buildings are still standing. Moreover, the original road structure is also im place.  After the war ended in 1945, the Norwegian Armed Forces took over the camp. They further used and developed the camp until 2003, when it closed. In 2007, it was sold to the Sola Municipality. The National Heritage Board is preserving 23 buildings and the surrounding pine forest, the only forested area in Jaeren.

    Note – it is not visible from the road. 

    You can view images by clicking here and here. 

    Vigdel Fortress

    WWII Site

    Vigdel Fort is a coastal fort that was actively in use until 2007. The fort is leftover from the German occupation. It was one of the Germans’ methods of protecting Sola Airport from attacks from the sea.  There was one such attack that influenced their decision to fortify the coast. On the 17th of April 1940, the British attempted to fire at Sola Airport from the sea. After several hours of intense gunfire, the British cruiser HMS Suffolk and several cruisers were forced to retreat. The German bombers had been no match for them. The British had conducted the attack in an attempt to recapture Trondheim from the Germans and stall the Germans’ advancement in Norway. After the battle, the English scrapped plans for a similar attack on Trondheim.  Vigdel Fort was built to prevent an attack like this from happening again. Most important to them was their air force, and it was one of the key strategies for the occupation. The fort was to protect the airforce at Sola Airport. However, the English never returned to attack Sola Airport by ship. Moreover, the fort was never really used. It was too far from the airport to be of any use during air raids. After the war, the Norwegian Army used Vigdel Fort as a training facility. Since it has fallen out of use, the site has been transformed into a popular hiking area.

    Images can be seen here.

    Hellestø Beach

    Beach

    Hellestø Beach is a beautiful place to go for a walk. It’s a sandy beach surrounded by rocky hills. The parking place is free, and it’s a short walk to get to the beach. There are no facilities here.

    TS Museum

    Museum

    The TS Museum in Stenebyen (Tjelta) has a unique collection of old tractors, cars, mortorbikes and trucks. In total, there are over 180 vehicles. All of them are still operating. 

    Visitor information can be found at their website (click here). 

    Bore Church

    Historic Church

    The earliest mention of Bore Church is in 1322, but the church was not new at that time. It’s likely that Bore Church was built as a stave church around the end of the 12th century. Only the baptismal font is preserved from the original church. The stave church was torn down in 1640 to make way for a more modern church. In 1895, the church and cemetery was rebuilt 1.5km (0.9 miles) to the northeast. After this church was finished, the old church was torn down.

    Bore Beach

    Beach

    Bore Beach is located just north of Orre Beach, the longest beach in Norway. Bore is a great beach for swimmers and surfers; when we visited, we got to see a surf school heading out!

    In the carpark you’ll find toilets and showers.

    Orre Beach

    Beach

    At 5km (3 miles), Orre Beach is the longest beach in Norway. With its white sand and good swimming or surfing conditions, it will make you think you are in a warm country. However, once you get in the water, you’ll be reminded that you are actually in Norway.

    Orre Beach is often mentioned among the best beaches in the world when it comes to its efforts to maintain a clean and preserved environment.

    Close to the beach is the Friluftshuset. This building has an information centre about outdoor life and nature conservation. There is also a cultural centre with concerts and art exhibitions. A cafe serves food and drink, and there are restrooms here. It’s open daily in summer and on weekends the rest of the year, between 11am and 4pm. 

    Orre Old Church

    Historic Church

    Orre Old Church is the oldest building in the area. You can read my guide to Orre Old Church below. 

    Orre Old Church

    Hå Gamle Prestgård

    Historic Site

    We didn’t stop here on our drive because the facility was closed, but you certainly can visit on your own drive. 

    Hå Gamle Prestgård is a contemporary art gallery and local cultural history museum located inside an old vicarage. Rotating exhibitions highlight Norwegian and international contemporary artists. There is a permanent archaeological exhibition with ancient objects from the area.

    The vicarage is from 1637 or earlier, and the oldest building is from 1787. The facility has undergone many renovations and has been listed for protection since 1920.

    There are two outbuildings with showrooms. In the main house is the café. If you walk around the site, you’ll see remains of settlements from the Stone Age (8200 years old) and old burial grounds from the migration period.

    Obrestad Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Orre Old Church is the oldest building in the area. You can read my guide to Orre Old Church below. 

    Obrestad Lighthouse

    Varhaug Old Cemetery

    Historic Site

    Varhaug Old Cemetery is an ancient site located on the old Kongevegen road. 

    Varhaug Old Cemetery

    Kvassheim Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Kvassheim Lighthouse is a historic lighthouse. 

    Kvassheim Lighthouse

    Hå Municipality

    Hitler's Teeth in Brusand

    WWII site

    Brusand is a small village with a population of 430. It is known for its beach, which has sandy dunes. Also, the largest carrot packing plant is located here!

    Brusand is also known for its Hitler Teeth, which are a series of concrete blocks set up alongside the highway. These are anti-tank obstacles set up by Germans in World War II.

    They were placed here by prisoners of war and forced labour workers. The Germans were worried an Allied invasion would come by sea, so they had these concrete blocks built to delay tanks advancing towards settlements. However, no Allied invasion ever came. 

    The prisoners sabotaged the teeth by mixing in more sand than concrete, making them weaker. They used to be on the whole coast, but this is one of the few spots that still has them.

    Magma Geopark

    Natural Attraction

    Shortly before Egersund is the Magma Geopark, an area with such a unique geology that it has been recognised by UNESCO. Here is also the world’s only sandy beach consisting of moon stone.

    The rock here is the same as the one found on the moon: Anorthosite. Astronauts have even visited the area to prepare for taking rock samples on the moon.

    Egersund

    Egersund is a charming small town on the south coast of Norway. It has lots of wonderful shops and cafes, making it a perfect place to stop on your road-trip. 

    Egersund Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Egersund to Dalen

    Cross the mountains over to Dalen in Telemark. 

    Egersund to Dalen

    Previous Drive

    Ryfylke Tourist Road

    Take the drive from Odda to Stavanger via the traditional region of Ryfylke. 

    Ryfylke Tourist Road

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “Ultimate Norway”. You can read about the whole drive below. 

    View Our 'Ultimate Norway' Road-trip

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Jæren

    Kvassheim Lighthouse

    Kvassheim Lighthouse

    Kvassheim Lighthouse is one of the highlights of the Jæren Scenic Road in Southern Norway. Situated between a rocky coast and ancient pastures, the view is next to nothing. If you find yourself driving on this national tourist road, be sure to stop here!

    In this article, I look into the history and importance of Kvassheim Lighthouse, plus the practical info for visiting yourself.

    In this article...

    The Fv44 Highway

    You can reach Kvassheim Lighthouse by taking the Fv44. You can find my guide to the Fv44 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv44 Highway
    Egersund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Why build a lighthouse here?

    Up until the completion of the Jærbanen, the whole coast consisted of scattered farmland instead of settlements. Moreover, it was a very low populated area in Norway. Yet, the coast saw an increase in traffic in the 19th century. And the Jæren coast is notorious for shipwrecks, especially on this stretch.

    Between 1843 and 1851, there were 19 shipwrecks on the coast. Jæren had a reputation for being a ship cemetery. In fact, it is said that if you want to pull apart your ship, simply leave it on the beach over the winter. When you return in spring, the waves would’ve reduced the ship to scrap.

    Click here to see an image of a crew being rescued off a ship on the Kvassheim shoreline in 1896. And if you click here, you can see another ship stuck on the coast.

    In 1862, the Society for Shipwreck Rescue began as a response to the high number of shipwrecks along the coast. Jæren was important to them, and lighthouses began to pop up along the coast – including Obrestad. However, these lighthouses didn’t work as well as needed. Then, in 1896, three ships sank off the coast of Kvassheim in less than a day. They’d found a good lighthouse spot.

    Building Kvassheim Lighthouse

    They needed a lighthouse and fog signal at Kvassheim. So, they built a lighthouse and foghorn in 1906. The fog-signal was fired every 10 minutes when there was fog, and a guy on a nearby farm was in charge of managing it. It wasn’t an immediate success; the lighthouse was weak and the fog signal didn’t work. A second lighthouse and manned fog signal were completed in 1912. However, the fog signal became electronically operated in 1916.

    The layout of the complex today is from 1912. It is for a family, meaning that the family would live on site. In 1916, the staff increased with a new lighthouse keeper, who got his own home. The home is still on the site today.

    WWII Use

    The Jæren coast was important to the occupying German forces during the war. They thought an Allied invasion by sea was imminent and worked on securing their ‘Atlantic Wall’. The Allied invasion never happened, and today there are traces of German occupation along the coast.

    Kvassheim Lighthouse was not lit during the war. Moreover, for long periods Germans lived on the property. Bunkers were built along the shore, and minefields were laid at the beaches. Near Brusand, the next town south of Kvassheim, ‘Hitler’s Teeth’, or concrete tank barriers, still stand.

    Automating the Lighthouse

    After the war, the lighthouse use declined. In 1956, the fog signal was replaced with a typhoon fog signal system. Since 1984, the fog signal is automatic.

    Click here to see an image of the lighthouse from before 1956.

    In 1990, a new automated lighthouse replaced the building. It is about 70m (320ft) west of the old building.

    Present day use & visiting

    Kvassheim Lighthouse underwent a major renovation in 2003. Today the Jæren Recreational Council manage the property. They use it as a museum and cafe. The cafe is in the machine house.

    The lighthouse keepers home is now the museum. On the lower floor is an exhibition about rescue operations on the Jæren coast. The second floor has an exhibition about the wetlands. In total there are 23 protected wetlands nearby. In the garden is a free exhibition about the sinking of a Russian navy vessel – there’s a memorial in the nearby Varhaug Cemetery.

    Lastly, it’s possible to rent the lighthouse overnight to sleep. The assistant’s home and outbuilding are rehabilitated into cozy, unique accommodation! Information about renting is only available in Norwegian, and it can be found here.

    The museum is open in the summer months, and the cafe is open more regularly. Click here for info on visiting the centre (in Norwegian).

    It is, of course, possible to visit the lighthouse all year round from the outside. There is a large parking facility and walking trails in the surrounding area.

    The Fv44 Highway

    You can reach Kvassheim Lighthouse by taking the Fv44. You can find my guide to the Fv44 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv44 Highway
    Egersund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Jæren

    Exploring Egersund in Southern Norway

    Exploring Egersund in Southern Norway

    Earlier this month I got the chance to visit Egersund, a small town in the south of Norway. The town is located at the other end of the Jaeren Scenic Road if you drive south from Stavanger. I fell in love with Egersund. It has everything I look for when exploring Norway: history, picturesque views, good local food and speciality local shops. The husband and I had such a good time eating, shopping and photographing our way through Egersund.

    I’ve put together an overview of Egersund’s highlights. If you are in Stavanger, I highly recommend making the trip to Egersund. You can spend a couple hours or a couple days there, and it’s well worth it.

    In this article...

    The Fv44 Highway

    Egersund is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Egersund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    A little about Egersund

    What does Egersund mean?

    Egersund’s name is generally considered to be one of the oldest names in Norway. It comes from an Old Norse word meaning ‘the strait between the oak trees’ (eger/eik = oak tree and sund = strait – you’ll see ‘sund’ in many place names). The Saga of Olav the Holy, written by Snorre Sturlasson in the 13th century, mentions Egersund as Eikunarsund. Olav the Holy, or St. Olav, visited Egersund many times – I’ll get into this below.

    Historic Overview

    Early History

    Not only is the word ‘Egersund’ one of the oldest names in Norway, but Egersund is one of the country’s oldest harbours. People have lived here since the Stone Age. There are several places where you can see the ruins of settlements back to the migration period (600-400BC).

    Egersund was a port during the Viking Age. The centre of the town is the bay, Vågen (‘the bay’ in Norwegian). In the oldest mentions of Egersund, the name Kaupanes is used in reference to a trading place. This indicates that there were Vikings here. The town is mentioned several times in the Saga of Olav the Holy, as his fleet would regularly anchor in Egersund harbour between battles and looting around Europe. You can find mentions of the town in Snorre Sturlason’s Kings Sagas.

    Town Growth

    However, the town as we know it today didn’t arise in its present location until the 17th century. Around this time, people began to settle along the bay. From the mid-18th century, urban settlement took place. Around 600 people lived here in 1745. In 1746, Egersund became a ‘ladested’. This word means citizens had privilages to buy, load and export particularly, but not only, timber. In 1798, Egersund received customs privileges. Egersund has been a municipality since 1837, though it no longer governs itself.

    Like any town in Norway famous for its wooden architecture, Many fires have occurred in Egersund. The largest fire was in 1843, when two thirds of the town were destroyed. After this, the city adopted a Renaissance-style grid plan. This can be found in other Norwegian cities like Kristiansund and Kvadraturen in Oslo, or many European towns. There were other major fires in 1859 and 162, and after this the city made wider streets to stop fire spreading.

    Egersund received a train connection to Stavanger in 1878 with the Jaerensbanen railway. Furthermore, in 1905 Egersund became the first town in Rogaland county to get electric lighting.

    During World War II, Egersund was occupied by German forces. Due to its harbour, Egersund was very important for the Germans strategies along the Atlantic Wall. Additionally, Egersund was home to the telegraph line between Norway and England.

    Industry

    The most important industry in Egersund has always had to do with the sea. Egersund has one of the best natural harbours in Norway. Up until 2006, it was the largest fishing harbour in the country. It has since been replaced by Ålesund. Today, Egersund’s other interests relate to fishing, the oil industry, and shipping.

    For those who love ceramics, Egersund is a great spot for this. The first company to do this is Egersund Fayancefabrikk in 1847. It was the largest employer in Egersund until it closed down in 1979. They made glazed ceramic beats, figures, plates and other items. Today if you find one of their items, you can sell it for thousands of kroners. You can learn about their company, and the industry overall, at the Egersund Fayance Museum (click here). There is another brand called ‘Egersund’ and you can often find their ceramics in the vintage shops for a reasonable price. Take a look here on Etsy at some Egersund ceramics.

    Top attractions

    Egersund Church

    The earliest existing record of a church dates back to 1292, but the church dates back to before then. The 1292 record is from Pope Nicholas IV in Rome, discussing indulgence issues. Egersund’s first church was likely a stave church dedicated to St. Mary. In the 12th century, churches dedicated to St. Mary appeared in Stavanger, Bergen and Tønsberg. The church is no longer standing but was likely where the present-day Egersund church is. Before the church, it’s likely that the site was used by pagans. Old folklore says that an altar stood there and people used it to sacrifice to the Norse gods, but this has not been verified. Still, it’s possible and pretty interesting!

    Egersund Church replaced the early church in 1623. While Egersund Church has undergone alterations, it has never burnt down. This new church is situated so that the choir is at the east end of the building. In 1726, the Danish/Norwegian King Frederik IV sold the church to pay some debts hs had from the Great Northern War. The parish purchased the church so it was no longer privately owned.

    Between 1785 and 1788, the church underwent a major renovation. Architects added the cruciform layout and higher ceilings. The new ceiling height meant that teired galleries were built around the church. This expansion greatly increased the capacity of the church and made it the second largest church in the county.

    In 1927, it was restored back to its 17th century appearance. You’ll see a blue plaque out the front commemorating the churches involvement in the 1814 voting.

    Egersund Town Centre

    Looking for the best preserved wooden centre in Norway? Egersund is considered one of the best!

    Egersund has the poor economy to thank for its preserved wooden architecture. Throughout the last century, the municipality prepared zoning plans to demolish the old buildings. Instead, they wanted to build concrete ones. However, due to the lack of funds, they were unable to follow through. The wooden houses remained.

    Today we know Egersund for their original architecture. Most wooden houses are the Late Empire style.

    There are lots of little shops in the streets of Egersund, especially on Storgaten. One of my favourites is a tiny antique store – it’s where I bought my Egersund ceramics!

    Here are some of the most picturesque streets:

    Strandgaten

    Strandgaten (Beach Street) is one of the main streets of Egersund. Many places in Norway have a Strandgaten, and it is typically found close to the bay’s edge. Before the city regulation of 1843, Strandgaten winded between the sea and the park. The street was straighened out after the 1843 fire. Strandgaten then linked the steamship quay and the railway station.

    The street was heavily trafficked and difficult to pass through. In addition to having wooden buildings on each side of the road, there were staircases up to the buildings built on the road. Only one carriage could fit down the road at a time. In the 19th century the municipality made efforts to get the locals to remove the stairs, but it didn’t get better. Instead, herring barrels were stacked where the stairs used to be! Along the street, sailors and craftsmen lived.

    Storgaten

    Storgaten (Big Street) is another main road. It is the main traffic artery between the east and west parts of the city. Since 1972, Storgaten is a pedestrian street. It’s here that you’ll find the more historic wooden houses.

    Pig's Square (Grisatorget)

    The name comes from the fact that piglets used to be traded on this spot. The statue is from 1984 and commemorates this trade. When they unveiled the statue, the locals grilled a whole pig in the square.

    At this spot you’ll find narrow alleys leading between wooden houses. This is the only place in Egersund where you can see the original street layout before the grid plan.

    Grand Hotel

    Grand Hotel dates back to 1878, when it opened as Hotel Jarderen. One of the first events here was the opening of the railroad. Sadly the hotel has been affected by fires multiple times, and in 1896 and 1926 was rebuilt.

    Egersund Chocolate Factory

    The Egersund Chocolate Factory is a unique attraction in the centre of Egersund. Here you can buy real chocolate made on site in the factory in the basement. Additionally, they offer courses in chocolate making. Over 800 locals supported the opening of the factory and are all shareholders. They meet every summer at the General Assembly to discuss and eat their product

    Practical Information

    Getting Here

    It is possible to reach Egersund by train from Stavanger, Kristiansand and Oslo.

    Oslo to Egersund: 7 hours
    Kristiansand to Egersund: 1 hour 50 minutes
    Stavanger to Egersund: 1 hour 9 minutes. This is the Jærenbanen, or a renowned scenic coastal train.

    The trains run hourly to Stavanger, while there are express and regional trains to Kristiansand and Oslo.

    GoAhead Nordic operates Oslo-Kristiansand-Egersund. Stavanger-Egersund is operated by Vy. Ticket prices vary according to the time of day, season and seating class.

    Egersund is located close to the junction of the County Roads 42 and 44. County Road 44 is the famous National Tourist Road for Jæren (click here). County Road 42 will take you to the European Highway 39 (E39), which links Stavanger with Oslo via Kristiansand and the Oslofjord region.

    Oslo to Egersund (via Kristiansand): 6 hours 24 mins
    Stavanger to Egersund (E39): 1 hour 9 mins
    Stavanger to Egersund (Jæren Scenic Road): 1 hour 23 mins

    Note – most of the parking in Egersund town centre requires payment. Download the app EasyPark (click here) to pay for parking. This app is common around Norway. There’s street parking close to the church and town centre.

    Wrapping Up

    As you can see, there’s a lot to do in Egersund. If you get the chance to visit, I highly recommend. Even if it’s a day trip from Egersund, it’s well worth it. Walk through the narrow alleys, eat some chocolate, and buy some Egersund ceramics!

    The Fv44 Highway

    Egersund is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Egersund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Jæren

    Varhaug Old Cemetery

    Varhaug Old Churchyard is one of the highlights of the National Tourist Road for Jæren and the historic hiking path Kongevegen.

    This is probably one of the most scenic spots on the road, and understandably so. After all, Varhaug is considered to be the most photogenic cemetery in all of Norway! Situated close to the North Sea, this cemetery overlooks the water on a flat, grassy plain. The tiny white chapel stands out in the distance, as does the iron grave monuments.

    This article is part of:

    About Varhaug

    Distance to Stavanger: 46.7km (29.9 miles) / 46 minutes
    Distance to Egersund: 39.2km (24.3 miles) / 38 minutes

    First off, lets talk about the nearby village of Varhaug. After all, this is where the cemetery gets its name.

    Varhaug is the second largest village along the Jæren coast and is the administrative centre for the Hå Municipality.

    While people have lived here for thousands of years, the village wasn’t founded until the late 19th century. Varhaug expanded quickly thanks to the construction of the train station along the Jærbanen, or Jæren Trainline. Why it was decided to build a train station in what was a scattered farming settlement is unknown, but nonetheless Varhaug got a train station. Perhaps it’s because the farms close to the sea, as in Varhaug, have traditionally been wealthy and important to Jæren.

    Above all, the Jæren coast is flat. That’s what makes it unique. Varhaug is actually the highest village on the coast, with an elevation of 40-60m (130-200ft).

    Agriculture has historically been the backbone of the region. However, it has gradually become less important as the village developed and Norway modernised. Agriculture is still important, but today the municipality is the largest employer. Another important company is Fjordkjøkken AS, a company that makes dinner meals for the Norwegian brand Fjordland. Some people commute to Stavanger for work.

    At the moment, Varhaug is having a problem with growth. The surrounding agricultural land is considered some of the best in the country, and there’s a resistance to building new homes on top of it. Moreover, the land is important to Norway’s food supply. At the moment the future of the village is unknown; one possibility is to build apartments. However, that will affect the natural landscape.

    The population of Varhaug is 3,239.

    The Historic Churches

    The site of the present-day cemetery is where the historic church used to stand. There have been at least three churches here. A stave church came first; likely built around the year 1200. Sadly, the stave church was demolished in the mid-17th century to make way for a more modern church. That church fell into disrepair and became a private property in 1725. A new church replaced it in 1828 – the architect is Hans Linstow, who also designed the Palace in Oslo. They demolished this church in 1905 when Varhaug’s present-day church was completed in the village. This old church site was just too far away.

    Varhaug Church in 1837: Click here to view a drawing of the church dated to 1837.

    The current chapel is from 1951. It has some features of the old churches. The highlight are the church bells inside the chapel; these date back to 1791. Additionally, the sculpture Sapienta (wisdom) is preserved. The sculpture is from 1650-1720. According to the Stavanger Museum, where the sculpture is on display, it likely came from one of the first churches.

    Factory owner Asbjørn Stueland commissioned the chapel. It is 15m2 wide and has 14 wicker chairs to sit on. The chapel is popular with weddings.

    Varhaug Cemetery

    Varhaug cemetery is ancient. In fact, it’s believed that the original site was an important pagan worshipping site. That lends itself to the fact that a stave church stood here in the early years of Christianity. Typically, stave churches stood on pagan sites to show the new religion. Some of the graves date back to the Middle Ages.

    This ancient cemetery is often described as the most beautiful cemetery in the country. This is due to its close position to the sea.

    Today Varhaug Old Cemetery is a protected as a cultural monument.

    Varhaug Old Cemetery
    The Russian memorial is visible to the right – it looks like an onion dome.

    Russian Shipwreck

    One of the coast’s most known shipwrecks took place here in 1842. A ship called ‘Ingermanland’, a Russian ship, encountered storms in the area and ran aground. After grounding, the sea lifted it up and drifted west with the wind. After drifting for 10 hours, it came ashore again. By then, the ship was completely wrecked. 503 people were rescued from the ship and 387 died. Among the dead were 21 women and 7 children.

    A memorial for those who perished is at the cemetery.

    Read more: English Wikipedia

    Kongevegen

    The cemetery is part of the historic Kongevegen route. This is an old road between Stavanger in the north and Ogna in the south. The name (English: King’s Way/King’s Road) is from a 17th century royal decree ordering farmers to provide a cart road along the coast. At the time, Norway had very few roads. The road was used by royals, farmers, and even pilgrims.

    During the 19th century, the road moved inland to the present-day highway. Additionally, Kongevegen was abandoned when the railway opened.

    Today Kongevegen is a popular walking path. Moreover, it is possible to see traces of the historic road as you walk along it.

    My Thoughts

    We stopped at the Varhaug cemetery very quickly. I didn’t walk all the way up to the chapel, as the most scenic shots seem to be from further away. I did find it beautiful to stop at, but it’s only necessary to stop here for a few minutes.

    Practical Info

    Address: Sør-varhaug 71, 4360 Varhaug

    It appears in Google Maps as Varhaug Gamle Gravlund and Varhaug gamle kirkegård.

    Parking: Dedicated carpark with free parking

    Cost: Free

    Signs: The cemetery has road signs pointing to it. There are no English information boards; just a stone written in Norwegian.

    Resources

  • Jæren

    Obrestad Lighthouse in Jæren

    The Norwegian coastline is littered with lighthouses. Many of them are simple, uninteresting modern lighthouses, but the older ones often have a story to tell. If you’re doing the Jæren Scenic Drive in Southern Norway, there’ll be some great lighthouses to see. Obrestad lighthouse is one of them!

    I visited Obrestad Lighthouse in September 2020. Here is my overview of the lighthouse’s history and present-day use.

    Obrestad Lighthouse

    The view from the lighthouse

    Location & Building Style

    The Obrestad lighthouse sits on a promontory about 5km (3.1 miles) west of the town of Nærbø. The name of the lighthouse comes from the farm it is sitting on. ‘Obre’ means ‘float’ or ‘flow’ and ‘stad’ can mean ‘place’. It is close to Obrestad, a small farming village. A harbour was constructed here in 1874 and is still in use today. The Obrestad Harbour is the first artificial harbour in Jæren. Moreover, 1845 a sea rescue station for seafarers opened here, and it was in use until 1977. During the war, the harbour was a meeting place for the resistance movement, and boats transported people to Scotland.

    Obrestad’s History

    Obrestad is mentioned in the Viking Sagas. Erik Bjodskalle, a known chieftain, had his farm here around 950 AD. He is the father of Queen Astrid, who is the mother of the famous Viking King Olav Tryggvason. Astrid and Olaf sought refuge in Obrestad before heading east.
    The present structure of the lighthouse is from 1950, though it was first built 1873. The square granite tower is 16.5m (54ft) tall and is next to a 1.5m granite lighthouse keepers home. It’s rare to find a lighthouse keepers home built in granite in Norway. The reason for this is that when it came time to built Obrestad lighthouse, the lighthouse service was tired of maintaining small wooden houses. Small wooden houses were continuously damaged by the elements, and maintenance was expensive.

    Granite was an experimental construction material. Additionally, they used brick and concrete. When the building was finished, they quickly realised that the materials are very cold and damp to live in. The new lighthouse keepers home is from 1905.

    The lighthouse sits at an elevation of 39m (128ft) above sea level. The light emits a continuous white light with an intensity of 129,900 candela with a more intense white flash every 30 seconds. The lighthouse emits a racon signal: the morse cod letter O.

    Coastal area

    History of Obrestad Lighthouse

    The North Sea is rough around the Jæren coast, and the rocky Varhaug Beach is notorious for shipwrecks. The waves are so strong that in told times the waves were a great way to turn ships into scrap. If you need to get rid of your ship, simply leave it on the beach in autumn. Throughout winter, the storms will take care of it. When you return in spring, you’ll have a pile of scrap ready to sell.

    Click here to view an image of the lighthouse around 1900

    Obrestad Lighthouse was originally built in 1873 to make the coast safer. For the first thirty years, the light source was an oil burner with a wick. In 1902 a petroleum glow burner replaced the oil burner, giving a far stronger light. In 1916, the lighthouse was electrified and they added a fog signal.

    During the Second World War, the lighthouse was part of the Germans’ defence. They built a lookout tower and bomb shelters. Additionally, military personnel lived in the homes.

    After the war, the granite building became the machine house. The lighthouse was moved to a concrete tower. After being decommissioned and automated in 1991, it was empty until the municipality bought it.

    Obrestad Lighthouse Today

    In 2006, the Hå Municipality purchased the lighthouse from the Norwegian Coastal Administration. The goal is to preserve the history and culture of the facility.

    Today Obrestad lighthouse is a lighthouse museum. It’s possible to rent out the keepers home or three other units as accommodation. There’s also one house that is available to rent for parties. The buildings consist of a lighthouse keepers house, outbuilding, service house and family house. They are around a square yard.

    The lighthouse is close to the Hå gamle prestegard. This is a historic vicarage from at least 1637, though possibly older. Since 1997, the municipality owns the property. It is a gallery for contemporary artists from Norway and abroad. Close to the prestegard is a burial ground from the Viking Age.

    Obrestad lighthouse is on ‘Kongevegen’, an old royal road. It is a marked coastal path that passes attractions, burial grounds and ancient traces of settlement. Obrestad lighthouse is also part of the coastal pilgrims route to Trondheim.

    Kongevegen Coastal Walk: Click here
    Pilgrims Coastal Route: Click here

    My Thoughts

    I enjoyed visiting this lighthouse. The surrounding area is especially scenic and great for photography. The road to the lighthouse is very narrow and a little confusing. While many may skip this lighthouse and go to the more famous Kvassheim lighthouse, I am glad we stopped at Obrestad.

    Resources

  • Jæren

    Orre Old Church

    Jæren

    Orre Old Church is a historic stone church located along the Jæren Scenic Road in Southern Norway. It is the oldest building in the surrounding area. We visited the church as part of our road trip through Norway. It was a short visit, mostly because there were no clear marking on how to walk up to the church. Moreover, the church is located seemingly on private property – it was a little awkward parking in someones driveway to visit a church! Still, if you get the chance to visit, there’s something special about this church.

    In this article...

    The Fv44 Highway

    Ore Old Church is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of the Church

    Orre Old Church in 1912 (Source)

    The first mention of the church is in the year 1448, but the church is likely from before then. It’s believed that the church is from the year 1250 and built according to designs from English monks. The thick walls are soapstone which are then plastered and painted white.

    Very little is known of the historical use of the church.

    Church Renovations

    In 1865, the church underwent major renovation. One of the extensions is the wooden choir, as well as the small porch on the west entrance.

    During the renovations, the historic stone arch windows were removed and much larger square windows were added. This greatly changed the appearance of the building. Additionally, the wooden extension and the new windows badly damaged the church.

    Embalmed corpses were discovered buried under the church. They are very well preserved. The corpses were reburied under the new altar when the renovation was complete.

    Orre Old Church is in the middle of a cemetery. The cemetery likely has a number of graves, but no monument or gravestone is preserved from the old times.

    Orre Church Today

    Orre Old Church

    The church was the town’s church until 1950, when the new Orre Church was ready. The new church can be seen in Pollestad, the nearby village.

    Today the church is a museum but also occasionally used for services and weddings.

    Orre Old Church seen from the road (Google Maps screenshot)

    Visiting the Church

    Orre Old Church is located on the national tourist road through Jæren. The church is not marked along the road; but it is on Google Maps. The church parking is on a farm property – I remember when we arrived the farmer was trying to leave with his tractor!

    The Fv44 Highway

    Ore Old Church is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Jæren

    Norway’s Stonehenge: Domsteinane in Southern Norway

    Jæren

    If you’re driving south from Stavanger along the coast, I highly recommend a quick stop at Norway’s Stonehenge: Domsteinane. It’s a mysterious and strange ancient monument that is yet to be answered. We stopped there on our Jæren Scenic Drive, and while it wasn’t a long stop, it was a lot of fun.

    Information on Domsteinane is scarce – you’ll see why – but I’ve tried to compile the most important bits to know before your visit.

    In this article...

    The Fv44 Highway

    Domsteinane is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Historical Mentions of Domsteinane

    The first historical mention of Domsteinane is in 1745. County Governor Bendix Christian de Finn wrote about it in his description of Stavanger:
    “on a flat plane above Sola beach stands very neatly a precise circle about 64m in circumference upright 24 grey stones. [It’s] like small bauta stones, where in between each of the high stone lies. In the middle of the circle you can see an obvious flat grey stone, like a table, and two large white stones to it on.”

    The next mention doesn’t come until the 1860s. Nicolay Nicolaysen writes that it was not possible to find the place Bendix wrote about:
    “About half a quarter from Solegårdene and about halfway between these and the south-facing farm Reke, there is a supposedly wrongly named Thingsted. However, since about 1790 has been completely hidden by sand, so that not even its place can be proven. Only of Finn description from 1745, according to which consisted of a circle, about 34 cubits in diameter, with an upright square stone in the middle and 24 similar stones around “.
    There are so many more written descriptions of the site. I’ve listed them in the resources below. Still, the monument was scarcely or accurately written about. Finn’s description has later been questioned and even discredited by some historians.

    Due to the elements (it is close to a beach), sand covered the stone circle. It remained hidden between the mid-18th and late 19th centuries. Additionally, it is exposed to erosion. Over time the locals took the stones to use on their properties as furniture, fences, and so on. By 1924, the stones were gone from the site.

    Discovering Domsteinane

    After an initiative from the Sola Historical Society, the Rogaland City Council has reconstructed the monument. The stones in the circle are for the most part the same original stones. The council gathered them back from the neighbours. The reconstruction is based on earlier descriptions and mentions. The site opened to the public in 2008. It took some time due to finding the specific location in a very dense pine forest. Then, they had to clear the forest.

    Possible Meanings

    Domsteinane is one of Norway’s most mysterious and strange monuments. No one knows for sure what it is or the meaning behind it. These kinds of stone circles are uncommon in Norway. This is probably the most peculiar stone circle in Scandinavia.

    Generally, stone circles like this can be linked to tomb stones or sacred places. Stone rings in Scandinavia are often associated with funerals. Graves are commonly found within the rings. However, no graves have been found in Domsteinane. It’s suggested that rituals took place here in the Viking Age.

    Some locals believe the stone circle is linked to Erling Skjalgsson and is his courthouse. In Nicolay’s description, he mentioned that the stone circle was (incorrectly) called Tingstedet; ‘ting’ is an old word for a council. Moreover, it’s accepted that Domsteinane is from before his time. Several stone rings in Norway date from the older Iron Age (500BC – 550AD), so Domsteinane may be from this time.

    What is It?

    Domsteinane is a circular shape of stones. There are eight symmetrical ‘spokes’ that may represent the sun, the wheel of life, or possibly a place for worshipping. The stone circle has a diameter of 22.5m and consists of 24 outer stones at 1-1.2 metres high. In the middle is a white flat stone, indicating that it is an altar.

    Practical Information

    Domsteinane has no address, but it is visible and searchable on Google Maps. Moreover, the road it’s on does not have a name.

    There is a small carpark located in front of the monument. Parking is free. It’s a short walk to the site, but keep in mind there’s no footpath so it might be muddy.

    An information board in Norwegian, English and German stands outside the site. Moreover, it has an image of what they think Domsteinane was used for.

    Resources

    The Fv44 Highway

    Domsteinane is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Jæren, Southern Norway

    Tracing the Vikings at the Sola Ruin Church

    Tracing the Vikings at the Sola Ruin Church

    Back in September 2020, the husband and I did a 10-day roadtrip around Norway. After leaving Stavanger, we drove south along the Jæren Scenic Road. While finding our way to the start of the road, we came across signs leading to this church. I hadn’t read up on it beforehand, but I never say no to a historic site photo-stop. And I’m so glad we decided to stop at the Sola Ruin Church (Sola Ruinkyrkje).

    This historic church is located in Sola Municipality just outside Stavanger. The church was active from 1150 – 1842 before being converted into a private residence. During the war, the Germans destroyed it. The church has since been restored, and now its history is being uncovered. Interestingly, the history is very closely linked with the Viking Age.

    In this article, I’ll go over the area and the history of the church, plus the Vikings it has been linked with. 

    In this article...

    The Fv44 Highway

    Sola Ruin Church is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Sola Municipality

    The area around Sola is rich in historic sites. Above all, Rich grave finds, ancient monuments and traces of large farms are from the Stone Age, Bronze Age and Viking Age. Moreover, all the finds show that Sola was a rich and important place. Sola was home to many powerful men during the Viking Age. It’s also believed that the unification of Norway took place on an island in Sola.

    Today Sola is known for Stavanger Airport, which occupies a very large area of Sola. Norwegian Air has its technical base in Sola. Sola also has a large container port at Risavika. Several oil companies have their Norwegian head office in Sola. Above all, Sola is an important agricultural municipality. There is the production of dairy products, meat, vegetables, strawberries and cucumbers.

    Erling Skjalgsson

    Erling pictured at his death

    It’s good to know a little about Erling Skjalgsson, especially since he’ll be mentioned quite a bit. Erling Skjalgsson (960-975 to 1027-1028) was a ruler of southern Norway. He is also the brother in law of Olav Tryggvason, who founded Trondheim. Historians aren’t 100% sure about where he lived, but most believe it was on Sola on a farm near the church. Others think he lived in Stavanger.

    Moreover, Erling aligned himself with Olav Tryggvason and received a large chunk of southern Norway to rule. After Olav was killed in battle, the leaders split Norway into three, which served Erling well. However, when Olav Haraldsson arrived in 1015, he had plans to rule the entire country.

    Erling continued to enforce his power on southwest Norway. King Olav tried to split his powers by introducing new men to control the area. However, they were quickly pushed out by Erlings men. In 1027, Erling went to England to get the support of Canute the Great. Erling returned in 1028 and rallied an army with the intent of fighting Olav. However, Erling was trapped on a ship by King Olav’s fleet in the Battle of Boknafjorden near Bokn in Rogaland. The ship overturned and the men captured Erling. As Olav was about to pardon Erling, one of Olav’s men cut off Erling’s head with an axe.

    According to the sagas, King Olav said to the killer “you feel! Now you hewed Norway off my hands!” the kings prediction came true. Backed by Canute the Great, Erling’s allies went on to drive Olav out of the country. They killed him at the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030.

    Sola Ruin Church & Christianity in Sola

    Christianity in Sola

    Comparatively, christianity came to Sola early. There are few pagan mounds from the 10th century here, especially when compared to other parts of Norway. This indicates that ancient customs had already given way to Christianity.

    Several large stone crosses from this period still stand – there are two on Tjora (the largest is 2.2m high). I’m so sad I didn’t know about these before renting a car and driving through Norway. It’s on the ‘next time’ list for sure. Anyway, the crosses are from the 10th century. There used to be three stone crosses; one is now in a museum in Bergen.

    Moreover, Erling Skjalgsson converted to Christianity to marry Astrid Tryggvesdatter, sister of Olav Tryggvason. According to the saga, Olav wanted a council (ting) set up as soon as he came to Sola to christianise the area. They picked out the three most eloquent peasants to speak out against Olav christianising them. When Olav showed up, they confronted him. The first did not say a word. The other suddenly became dumb, and the third was so hoarse that no one heard him. Therefore, there was no resistance to Olav and everyone in the council was baptised before Olav left.

    Monument to Erling Skjalgsson and Astrid Tryggvesdatter

    History of the Church

    It’s possible that the predecessor to this church was a stave church. Some historians believe Erling Skjalgsson built the church in connection with his farm. The location of the church has a view towards Sola Beach, the sea, and Hafrsfjord. Erling died in 1028. After Erling died, his relatives are documented with building stone churches in the area. However, Sola Ruin Church is been dated to between 1120 and 1130. Above all, this is around the same time other stone churches in southern Norway were built. Since Erling was killed 100 years before that, Sola ruin Church is not his church. Still, it’s possible that the predecessor was his church. Sadly, the ground where the ruins would’ve been was destroyed by the artist when he moved in (more on that soon). The artist also removed the tombs in the nave.

    The stone crosses, churches and cemeteries in Sola testify not only to a dense settlement during the Viking Age but also great people coming here. Additionally, there was great wealth in the area. The land in Jaeren and Sola is among the best agricultural land in Norway. Additionally, the area is close to the North Sea and trade routes, making it great for Viking expeditions.

    Most importantly, Sola Church was in use until 1842.

    You can see an image of the church in ruins in the 19th century here: https://digitaltmuseum.no/021018297305/postkort-med-motiv-av-sola-ruinkirke

    “Naval Battle of Madagascar”

    Private ownership

    In 1871, painter Johan Bennetter bought the church ruin. He converted it into a provide home with a studio. In 1907, the Bennetter family moved into a new house built into the garden south of the church. The house is no longer standing.

    Johan Bennetter (1822-1904) is a Norwegian naval painter in the Hague and Paris. He returned to Norway in 1880 to decorate his home and studio in Sola’s old church. His most famous work is ‘Naval Battle of Madagascar’, owned by the National Gallery. Above all, as a naval painter, he is recognised for his lifelike waves.

    You can see what the church looked like as a house here: https://www.solahistorielag.no/events/bennetter-og-hellandfamilienes-dype-spor-pa-sola-innen-kunst-kultur-og-arkitektur-ved-arvid-baerheim/

    World War II

    On the day of occupation, 9 April 1940, the Germans took control of Sola Airport. It was as one of the most important bases in Norway. The Germans believed that the church could be used by the Allies as an approach target. Because of this, they demolished the church. Moreover, they left the remains on the site as a large stone mound. Fortunately, the Germans marked each stone and where it had stood in the church.

    Sola Ruin Church
    Sola Ruin Church from the front – me in reflection for scale 😉

    Restoring the Church

    In 1982, the Sola Municipality and the National Heritage Board began the restoration. It started with an archaeological excavation of the church ruin in 1986. Above all, the excavation found 31 graves, some inside the church and others outside. The tower was not touched by Benneter, and graves lay in the tower. The most important was one of a 60 year old woman who was in a spacious, iron-clad pine coffin. She was wrapped in textiles and leather.

    Moreover, two post-holes were found that date back to 595AD – 670AD and the other from 650-760AD. Both came long before the Viking Age. Moreover, Archaeologists also looked into the carpark area and found two fireplaces that date back to 660-1020 AD. One of them fits in with the Viking times. It indicates that there were buildings here in the Viking age. This is possibly where Erling Skjalgsson lived.

    In 1992, the church was restored after an architectural competition to its present form. They have put glass on the missing sections, creating a unique appearance.

    Not much from the church is preserved. There is a soapstone coffin from the Middle Ages. It is part of the collection of the Bergen Museum.

    Sola Ruin Church
    Sola Ruin Church

    The church today

    The church is used every year when the mayor of Sola municipality awards the Human Rights Prize for the Nordjæren region in the church. This usually takes place on UN day on 24 October. The prize consists of a sculpture of the Erling Skjalgsson monument, a diploma, and 25,000 NOK. It is distributed to an institution, organisation or individual in the region who has made an effort to promote work on the knowledge of human rights.

    The church is very popular for weddings and concerts. It has a capacity of 68 people. Moreover, when it’s not rented out, it’s possible to book a guided tour of the church.

    A monument to Erling Skjalgsson stands outside the church.

    Practical Information

    Address & Getting There

    Bautavegen 10, 4050 Sola

    Signs? Yes – they say ‘Sola Ruinkyrkje’

    Note – the church is located on a sleepy residential street. Please be respectful of the neighbours! The roads are narrow. Moreover, it’s important to note that “Sola Ruin Church” is not the same as the nearby “Sola Church”.

    Parking

    Free parking. The carpark is located a short walk from the church.

    Restrooms

    No restrooms.

    Walks

    If you’ve got some time to spare, there’s a walking route around Sola. It will take you past some of the historic monuments mentioned above. What’s great about Sola is that it has a flat landscape, making the walk very pleasant.

    You can read about the walk here: https://ut.no/turforslag/1112746/solaturen (it’s in Norwegian but translates easily)

    Information Sign

    Information sign

    There is an information board in Norwegian with a summary in English. It also has images of the church throughout history.

    Final Thoughts

    The church is a real delight, especially when kickstarting a drive through southern Norway. However, I’m a little sad to see just how much the church has been affected by history. Very little of the historic Viking church remains, so it serves as a gentle reminder that history is worth preserving.

    If you’re in the area, it’s well worth stopping by. The visit will be quick but you’ll get some lovely photos.

    The Fv44 Highway

    Sola Ruin Church is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide