Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Andenes, National Highways, Road-trips, Sortland, Stokmarknes

    Drive it Yourself: Stokmarknes to Andenes on the Fv82

    Drive it Yourself: Stokmarknes to Andenes on the Fv82

    The scenic drive from Stokmarknes to Andenes on the Fv82 will take you through the Vesterålen region. The traditional region of Vesterålen is not as world-famous as Lofoten, but there’s no denying that Vesterålen is equally as beautiful. On this off-the-beaten path drive, you’ll pass through charming fishing villages and important settlements for North of Norway. This drive connects well with the Lofoten Tourist Road and the Andøya Tourist Road, making it perfect for any Norwegian road-trip!

    In this article...

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    The drive: Stokmarknes to Andenes

    Melbu

    Town

    Melbu is a small town with a population of 2,250 people. The town is located on the southern side of the Hadseløya island. Melbu is often referred to as the “Pearl of Vesterålen” because of its beauty.

    A large farm at Melbu is mentioned in the Viking Sagas, meaning settlement here is very Melbu has been a trading post for hundreds of years but began to see modern development in the 19th century. Melbu became an industrial centre with a dairy, wool and margarine factories and a large fishing industry. Fishing is still an important industry for Melbu.

    Vesterålen’s largest village museum is in Melbu, with one of the country’s finest collections of traditional costumes from the 18th century. 

    The historic Melbu Farm is a museum that has exhibitions on the history of the region, the bunad, and shows what life was like in the 19th century. The museum is located at the address M. Fredriksens alle 1, 8445 Melbu

    Hadseløya

    Island

    Hadseløya is the largest island in the municipality. The island is hilly. In common with the rest of Vesterålen, there are large areas of flat marshy terrain between the fells. The coastal area in the south west is cultivated.

    The island used to be a popular place for Engishmen to come fishing, and many books were written about the hunters paradise in Northern Norway. The first ptarmigan hunt in Norway using dogs took place on Hadseløya. Hunters from England brought their dogs with them and used the area to train their English setters as hunting dogs. During this period the island was almost cleared of ptarmigan.

    Hadsel Church

    Island

    The church is from 1824 but contains an Olav figure from the early 16th century. The triptych is also from the 16th century and was probably made in Utrecht. It is one of five found in Norway.

    The parish of Hadsel has been in existence since the Middle Ages and at least three churches have stood on the same site since the 14th century. One of these was dedicated to St. Stefanus, the first Christian martyr, and it is thought that the triptych was built for this church as Stefanus is one of the persons depicted in the carvings.

    It is believed that Hadsel was the regional and political chieftain seat during the Iron Age and had a settled population. So far nine archaeological finds have been made; one of them is the largest star-shaped sacrificial monument that has been registered in Norway.

    Hadsel Cultural Heritage Park

    Historic Site

    Close to Hadsel Church, by the highway, is the Kulturminneparken på Hadsel, or the Hadsel Cultural Heritage Park. This park has been excavated, and finds going back to before the Vikings have been found here. This indicates the importance of Hadsel in older times.

    Stokmarknes

    Stokmarknes is the administrative centre of Hadsel and has a population of around 3,500 people.

    Traces of ancient settlements in the area around Stokmarknes with sites from the Iron Age, burial sites and boathouse remains. Received status of ‘privileged trading post’ in 1776. It was strategically placed for vessels sailing along the outer side of Vesterålen, before the shallow Risøyrenna was dredged and opened for shipping in 1922.

    Around 1900 many industrial and commercial innovations occurred. Stokmarknes is regarded as the birthplace of the Hurtigruten as Richard With founded the company here in 1893. In town is the Hurtigruten Museum (address Richard Withs gate 1, 8450 Stokmarknes), which explains the history of the coastal ferry. You can also walk on the old ship M/S Finnmarken.

    Stokmarknes does have an airport and it is one of Norway’s most used regional airports with approximately 100,000 passengers annually.

    Stokmarknes Travel Guide

    Børøy Bridge

    Bridge

    The Børøy Bridge connects the islands of Hadsel and Børøya. It is 336 metres long and has a maximum clearing of 15 metres. The bridge was built in 1967 and was the first of the bridges to be built in Vesterålen.

    Børøya

    Industrial Area

    Børøya is a small industrial area with 500 people from 25 nations working here. The main industry on the island is fish farming and the processing of fish.

    Hadsel Bridge

    Bridge

    The Hadsel Bridge is 1km long and has a maximum clearance of 30 metres. The bridge opened in 1978 and is one of the four bridges built during the 1970s to connect the islands of Vesterålen to each other. Before the bridge, there was a ferry service here.

    Langøya

    Industrial Area

    Langøya is mainland Norway’s third-largest island and is 5km long and 40km wide. The highest mountain is 763 metres high.

    Grytting

    Village

    Grytting is a small village with a population of around 125 people. It is a popular place to go skiing, and there are tracks and ski jumps here. Tufts have been found from the Viking Age after a chieftains farm, and there are burial mounds here.

    Sortland Municipality

    Sortland Municipality is part of the traditional region of Vesterålen. It is located in the southern part of Vesterålen on the islands Langøya and Hinnøya, and the municipality surrounds the inner part of the Eidsfjorden and the Sortland Strait. The midnight sun occurs from 23 May to 23 July, while the polar night is from 30 November to 12 January. The region is popular for observing the northern lights.


    The region is mentioned in the Viking Sagas, where it is written as the home of Karle and Gunnstein, who took part in Tore Hund’s campaign against King Olav. The first church is mentioned in written sources in 1370. Yacht skipper Søren Mørch from Bergen settled here and started a yacht trade in 1659. This is the year Sortland is considered to be founded.


    Sortland is home to the Coast Guard Base in Norway. Tourism is also important, as is agriculture. Parts of the municipality were known in the latter half of the 19th century as one of Norway’s best regions for herring. The herring adventure here helped lay the foundation or the establishment of Hurtigruten. While the herring aren’t as plentiful as back then, there are still fishing in Sortland.


    Sortland has a small Sami population. A Sami family runs reindeer herding on Hinnøya. There used to be a reindeer husbandry, but it was closed in 1972. Some place names in the region come from Sami words.
    Sortland is regarded as one of the best music communities in Norway and the local band Madrugada has been one of the best in the country. The Sortland Jazz Festival takes place every autumn, and some of the world’s leading jazz musicians have taken part.


    Sortland is the only municipality in Vesterålen that has seen a stable increase in the popular over the past 25 years.

    Sortland

    Sortland has a population of around 9000 people. Archaeological finds indicate that the area has been inhabited for as long as 5000 years ago. The hunter gatherer population moved from settlement to settlement. 270 graves have been located from the Iron Age. Over 30 house remains have been found.

    Sortland grew after Risøyhamn was dredged and was opened for larger ships.

    Sortland became the busiest trading post in Vesterålen, schools were built and it became a traffic hub for the local area. The arrival of the Hurtigruten in 1922, the establishing of the Coast Guard and the airports have contributed to Sortland growing.

    Sortland has a small museum located at Strandgata 1, 8400 Sortland.

    Sortland Travel Guide

    Hinnøya

    Island

    Hinnøya is the fourth-largest island in Norway, or the largest if you don’t include the Svalbard archipelago. The island is 80km (50 miles) long and 55km (34 miles) wide, and the highest elevation is at 1262m (4140 ft) above sea level. The best agricultural area is in the northeast, while the southern part is the Møysalen National Park. In the northwest of the island is a nature reserve containing a valley with forests and bogs, including the oldest pine trees in Norway, more than 700 years old.

    Inga Sami Siida

    Sami Site

    The Inga Sami Siida is a Sami visitors centre run by the Inga family, who have been reindeer herding here for 150 years. They began the property in 2009 and in the summer months have a drop-in centre where you can visit the exhibition, meet the reindeer, and have a try and reindeer lassoing. In winter you must prebook the experience.

    View their website here. 

    Andøy Municipality

    Andøy is the northernmost municipality in Nordland, and forms part of the Vesterålen archipelago. The population of Andøya has decreased by 6.8% over the last ten years, and the main settlement is Andenes. The meaning of Andøy is unknown, though the last element means ‘island’.

    The municipality is spread across the island of Andøya and Hinnøya. The mid-section has bogs and marshes known for their Arctic cloudberries, and there are numerous lakes here too. The island is the only place in continental Norway where coal and fossils from dinosaurs are found. The Forfjorddalen nature reserve has some of the oldest pine trees in Scandinavia – some are more than 700 years old. Andøys is also the place where Egga, the edge of the continental shelf, is closest to the land.

    The municipality has a strong connection to aviation, with the 333 Squadron of the Air Force being stationed at Andøya Airport. The Andøya Space Centre is involved in international cooperation of the polar atmosphere and the northern lights. Andøya Airport is proposed to be closed by 2025, with air traffic moving to Evenes Airport.

    The fishing industry is still important to the municipality, and Andenes is one of the country’s largest fishing harbours and one of Northern Europe’s largest port facilities.

    Forfjord

    Town

    The name of the village is Forfjord, which comes from the name of the fjord the village is built around. The nature reserve here has the oldest living pine trees in Northern Europe, with some of them dating back to 830 AD. It is assumed that the forest was a source of timber and tar for Viking ships, and there are settlements and burial sites that are yet to be excavated.

    A famous person in Norwegian exploration came from Forfjord: Hans Jørgen Furfjord. He led the first expedition to stay the winter on Svalbard to hunt silver foxes, walruses, seals and polar bears. Items from his expeditions are on display in museums in Tromsø and Svalbard. Hans also kept diaries describing his adventures, including European monarchs visiting, his being imprisoned by British soldiers for not supplying them for free, barely surviving polar bear encounters, and surviving not freezing to death. He died at the age of 81 at his home in Forfjord. Some of his children emigrated to Canada and the United States, where some of his descendants live today. Some remain in Forfjord. 

    Andøy Bridge

    Bridge

    The Andøyabrua is 750 metres long and 30 metres high. The bridge was built in 1974 and is one of the four bridges built to connect Vesterålen together. The bridge crosses the Risøysundet strait.

    Andøya

    Island

    The island Andøya is the 10th largest island in Norway. In the marshy areas there is peat production and cloudberry harvesting. The only Norwegian deposits of coal outside of Svalbard have been found here, but mining the coal is not seen as economically viable. The island is well-known for its many fossils. Among others, a fossil of a 3m long fish lizard has been discovered. Finds of 11,000 year old charcoal deposits indicate that the island has been inhabited since the Stone Age.

    The island is mentioned in the King’s Sagas with the ancient Norse name Omd, both in the Ynglingsaga and the saga of Olav Trygvason. Omd was the ancestral land of the earls of Hålogaland. Some of the first Viking expeditions took place from here.

    Risøyhamn

    Town

    Risøyhamn is a small village located on the island Andøya. It has a population of 216 and is serviced by the Hurtigruten twice a day – if you take the Hurtigruten southbound you see the village around 11:30am. There are many older buildings in Risøyhamn, including Gammelgården from the early 18th century. There is a small open-air museum here with five buildings.

    Dverberg

    Town

    Dverberg is a small town with a population of around 200 people. Dverberg is known for its theatre club for kids, which has existed for 30 years.

    Dverberg Church is an old wooden church from 1843. Records show there has been a church here since at least 1589, but it was not new at the time. In 1658, the church in Dverberg underwent a major repair, but in 1734 the church was struck by lightning and had to be rebuilt. In 1839, it was decided to build a new church, and that’s the church standing today.

    Andenes

    Andenes is a small fishing community located on the top of Andøya. The village is known as being one of the best places to set off on a whale safari, and it has a direct ferry connection to the famous Senja Island, which we will be taking the following day.

    Andenes is close to the rich fishing grounds and these is evidence of fishing settlements from 500AD. The location means that it is very exposed to the weather. In the Middle Ages, Andenes was a wealthy fishing village with traders from Germany and Holland coming to buy dried fish and the fishermen encountered the German Hanseatic League. It is claimed that the fishermen also caught species of shark the Greenland Shark. The fishermen used dead calves and dogs that had decomposed in barrels as bait.

    In 1520, around 590 people lived on the island. Andenes had its golden age around the year 1600, before a steady decline set in. Andenes was integrated with the Bergen trading monopoy in Northern Norway.

    Today fishing is still important, though tourism is a growing industry thanks to the whale safaris.

    Andenes Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store
  • Folldal, National Highways, Road-trips, Røros, Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: Trondheim to Røros on the Fv30

    Drive it Yourself: Trondheim to Røros on the Fv30

    The Fv30 is a short but scenic highway that travels from near Trondheim across to the eastern part of Norway and the UNESCO World Heritage site of Røros. Along the way, you’ll pass charming agricultural villages and some of the historic mines.

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    The drive: Trondheim to Røros

    Trondheim

    This drive begins in Trondheim, Norway’s third-largest city. 

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Støren

    Town

    Støren is the administrative centre of the municipality and has a population of around 2,300 people. The village was built up in the mid-19th century and saw growth when the Dovrebanen railway station was constructed.

    In the village you can see Støren Church (address Kjørkvollveien 2, 7290 Støren), a historic octagonal church from 1817. The earliest mention of a church here was in 1432, but the church was not new that year. The first church was likely a stave church from the 12th century. The church you see today is the third church to be on the site.

    You will be following the Rørosbanen train line, so almost every village will have a train station.

    This drive is pretty remote with not too many places to stop at, but it is still a nice drive and Røros is worth it!

    Gaula

    River

    You are following the Gaula river, a 153km long river that runs through central Norway. The Gaula is regarded as one of the top five salmon fishing rivers in Norway.

    Rognes

    Village

    Rognes is a small village with a population of 200. The main industry here is agriculture, but there used to be a shoe factory and mechanical workshops here. One of the farms in the village, Bones Gård, is mentioned in the Old Norse sagas.

    Singsås

    Village

    Singsås is a small village with a population of around 1000. The village is an agricultural village, though some forestry also takes place. Singsås church is from 1884, but the first church on the site is likely from the 13th century. A crucifix in the current church has been dated to 1280, and it’s believed it came from the original church. The original church was likely a stave church but was located about 5km northeast of the town.

    Holtålen Municipality

    Holtålen municipality is a mostly remote municipality with large mountain areas and part of the Forollhogna National Park. The Kjøli mine is located in the municipality and is Northern Europe’s deepest mine.

    The coat-of-arms shows a ptarmigan, which was chosen to reflect the importance of hunting in the municipality.

    Holtålen

    Village

    Haltdalen is a small village located in the upper part of the Gauldalen valley, one of Norway’s longest valley. The Haltdalen Stave Church is from here but is now in an open-air museum in Trondheim. The stave church is from 1170 and is the only stave church of the East Scandinavian style that has been preserved, making it one of the oldest wooden buildings in Norway. The church was replaced in 1704 and then again in 1881 with the current church. The stave church managed to survive all of this and was handed over to Trondheim in 1882.

    Gammelgården is Haltdalen’s first vicarage and was built at the beginning of the 18th century. Today the main building and two storehouses from the 1750s remain.

    Renbygda

    Village

    Renbygda is the administrative centre of Holtålen municipality. In the village is Ålen Church, which replaced a stave church from the Middle Ages. Parts of Ålen Stave Church were used to build Haltdalen Stave Church, for example the west portal and west wall in Haltdalen stave church comes from Ålesn stave church. The current church is from 1881. There are two church bells in the church, the oldest one being from 1736.

    Røros Municipality

    Røros municipality is named after the town of Røros and is a UNESCO World Heritage area for its mining history. More about Røros will be explained when you reach the town.

    Røros municipality is one of the coldest places in Norway, and the coldest temperature recorded was -50C in January 1914. Most of the municipality is at around 630 metres above sea level and is mostly forested with birch. Two national parks, Femundsmarka national park and Forollhogna national park are partly within the municipality.

    The coat-of-arms comes from the old symbol for copper, which was heavily mined in Røros for centuries.

    Historically the municipality was inhabited by the South Sami people, who did reindeer herding here. In 2022 the national government approved a resolution to add an official Sami language name for the municipality: Rosse.

    Røros

    Town

    Røros is one of the most fascinating towns in Norway, and it is also seriously underrated. Located close to the Swedish border, Røros is a well-preserved historic town with charming wooden houses and an important industrial past.

    Røros was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980. In 2010, the listing was expanded to include the Circumference.

    Here’s the reasoning:

    Røros Mining Town and Circumference is linked to the copper mines, established in the 17th century and exploited for 333 years until 1977. The site comprises the town and its industrial-rural cultural landscapes; Femundshytta, a smelter, and the Winter Transport Route. Røros contained about 2000 wooden one and two-storey houses and a smelting cabin. Many of these buildings have preserved their blackened wooden facades, giving the town a medieval appearance. Surrounded by a buffer zone, coincident with the area of privileges (the Circumference) granted to the mining enterprise by the Danish-Norwegian Crown, the property illustrates the establishment of a lasting culture based on copper mining in a remote region and harsh climate.

    “Røros is a unique mining town built exclusively of wood. The town has for 333 years been a melting pot of cultures and influences from Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Trondheim and the surrounding district. This has resulted in a wooden house environment, which represents much of Norway’s finest traditions, and is unique in our country’s industrial, social, cultural and architectural areas. The mining town of Røros and its surroundings is a characteristic example of a special traditional style of wood architecture creating a unique town 600 metres above sea level.”

    Be sure to visit the Røros Museum at Lorentz Lossius Gata 45, 7374 Røros

    Røros

    Welcome to Røros! We made it. Røros is a UNESCO World Heritage Area full of history, charm, and things to do. I recommend parking at the Smelthytta Musuem and exploring Røros on foot. You can spend heaps of time here – be sure to make the most of it.

    Røros Travel Guide

    The Previous Drive

    The Rondane National Park

    The best way to get to Folldal is by taking the Rondane Tourist Road. 

    Rondane Tourist Road

    The Next Drive

    Oppdal to Kristiansund

    On the following day we drove to Kristiansund on the west coast of Norway via Oppdal. 

    Oppdal to Kristiansund

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • European Highways, Kirkenes, Road-trips, Vadsø, Varangerbotn, Vardø

    Drive it Yourself: The Finnish Border to Tromsø on the E8

    Drive it Yourself: Finland to Tromsø on the E8

    The E8 from the Finnish border down the Finnmarksplateau to Tromsø is a short but scenic drive. The first half of the drive is rugged and remote, passing incredible sites such as the Rovijokfossen waterfall. The second half of the drive partly follows the E6 highway that goes across the length of Arctic Norway. All in all, this drive is great for those exploring the high north.

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    I offer downloadable versions of my self-guided drives on my online store. 

     

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map that can be loaded into your phone for better navigation!

    Finland to Tromsø on the E8

    Kilpisjärvi

    This drive begins in Kilpisjärvi, a Finnish village just over the border. The road from Finland to Tromsø is commonly called “Nordlysveien” – the Northern Lights Road – as there are many spots to pull over to observe the northern lights.

    Kilpisjärvi Travel Guide

    Storfjord Municipality

    Storfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The name comes from the Storfjorden that runs through the area, while the coat-of-arms shows three poppies that are rotated around a meeting point which represents the meeting point of the three countries Norway, Sweden, and Finland.

    The first peoples to live here were the Sami people. In the 19th century settlers from Finland and Southern Norway began to establish themselves. Sami culture has survived in parts of the municipality. In the 19th century the Laestadianism religious movement obtained a strong position, and Skibotn is still a stronghold for this movement.

    The landscape of Storfjord is characterised by alpine mountains, and the highest mountain is Vassdalsfjellet (1587m), while the most ‘famous’ mountain is Otertind.

    Highest Point on the Road

    Landmark

    Just after coming into Norway, you pass the highest point on the E8 highway. It is 542 metres high.

    The first stretch of the E8 highway is remote and rugged. You will pass numerous parking places along the way.

    Skibotndalen Valley

    Scenic Area

    The valley area you are driving through is called Skibotndalen, which is a popular valley for hunting moose. The river you are driving along is the Rovijokkelva, a 60km long river that originates from the lake Bajimus Rovvejarvi and flows in a south-west direction.

    Rovijokfossen

    Waterfall

    Rovijokfossen is a waterfall located by the highway. There is a large parking lot by the waterfall but no signage. In Google Maps the waterfall is called “Rovijoen putous”. This is where the river Rovvejohka drops 28 metres and ends in the river Skibotnelva. It is possible to go for a short walk to get close to the waterfall.

    Skibotn

    Town

    Skibotn is a small village with a population of 538 located at the end of the Lyngen fjord and close to Kilpisjarvi in Finland. The residents of the village are either descendants of the Sami and Kven people or the Norwegian immigrants who came in the 19th century.

    Historically, Skibotn was a meeting point and market for the different ethnic groups in the area. The market still takes place today and is named ‘Skibotn markedsplass’ on GPS if you want to visit.

    Skibotn is the place in Norway that has registered the clearest days and it is one of the driest places in Norway. Because of the lack of clouds, there is an astrophysical observatory located in Skibotn.

     

    Hatteng
    Town

    Hatteng is located at the southern end of the Storfjorden, a branch of the Lyngenfjorden and the fjord you will start driving along.


    Storfjord Church is the main church and was built in 1952. The first church was built in 1917 and was used both as a church and the local school. The old church wasn’t destroyed during World War II, but after the war a new church was built and the old building was used just as a school. The church is located at the address Rv868 6, 9046 Oteren

    In 1944 the Nazis established a village here with several thousand soldiers stationed here. The nickname was “Little Berlin’ and the village had several camps with Russian prisoners of war. Two marked graves have been identified. A Nazi watertower is located in the village (“Tysk vanntårn” on GPS).

    Balsfjord Municipality

    Balsfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms depicts a yellow plough on a red background, symbolising the importance of agriculture in the municipality. The plough also symbolises that the municipality is at the northernmost border on which grain can be grown in Norway. No other area in Troms has so much cultivated land. Agriculture is mostly based on milk and meat production and Balsfjord has the highest number of cattle, sheep, and goats among the municipalities in Troms. One of the dairies is the country’s largest goat cheese producer.

    The Sami people were the first people to inhabit the area, but around 1800 new settlers came from Finland and Southern Norway. Today, very few traces of Sami culture survive. From the 18th until the 20th century, trappers from Balsfjord were active in the Arctic, hunting in the areas around Greenland and Svalbard.

    The municipality was home to a religious group of ‘mindekirken’ or ‘freechurch dissenters’ who split from the state church in Tromsø. They were led by a seminary student, Johannes Andreas Johannessen and they established their own church, the Free Apostolic Christian Church, in Balsfjord. Bomstad and his followers were said to have protested against the Tromsø state church minister and Troms Bishop’s religious rulings, eventually leading to a riot in Tromsø. The state church members yelled at Bomstad and his dissenters to “go back to Kautokieno!”. In 1862, Bomstad led a group of colonists to America, arriving into Chicago. After that they went to the area of St. Peter, Minnesota, where they remained. Bomstad left St. Peter and became the founding father of Lake Lillian in Minnesota. After staking his original claim, Bomstad and the rest of the colonists arrived at Lake Lillian and built dugout shelters to live. Eventually they all had log cabins to live in.

    Close to Balsfjord Church are 6000-year-old rock carvings at Tennes.

    Piggsteinen

    Roadside Attraction

    Located just out of Nordkjosbotn is Piggsteinen. It has been a tradition since ancient times to carve ones name into this stone when travelling. In recent times spray cans have taken over and many thousands of names have formed a thick layer of paint on the stone. It’s not marked on the highway and difficult to see if you’re driving towards Tromsø, but put in the address 137 E6 9040 Nordkjosbotn or “Piggsteinen” into GPS.

    See more here. 

    Nordkjosbotn

    Town

    Nordkjosbotn is a small town with a population of around 480 people. Nordkjosbotn is located at the junction of the two major highways in Northern Norway – the E6 and the E8 – and it is located in one of the few winter-safe passages for the region. Because of its location, the town is the commercial centre of the region. Nordkjosbotn is also a town with a growing population.

    Tromsø Municipality

    Vadsø municipality is named after the town of Vadsø that we will soon be driving through. The coat-of-arms shows a reindeer as reindeer husbandry is common for the municipality and of great economic importance, especially for the Sami people.

    The municipality spreads across the southern coast of the Varanger peninsula. There are trees here as this part of the peninsula is sheltered from the sea, but the tree line is at around 200 metres above sea level.

    Ramfjord

    Village

    Ramfjord (also called Fagernes) is a small village located just south of Tromsø. Around 1,000 people live here and there’s schooling and a trotting track. The Univeristy of Tromsø has a research station here too.

    Tromsø

    Tromsø is the largest city in Northern Norway and fourth-largest city in all of Norway. Located on an island in the middle of a strait, Tromsø was first mentioned in history in the mid-13th century when King Håkon Håkonsson had a fortress and church built there to defend Norway against the ‘heathens’ (Sami people).

    Tromsø didn’t see growth until the 18th century, when it emerged as an important harbour for Arctic hunting and trade. Tromsø earned the nicknamed ‘the Paris of the North’ because Europeans visiting to partake in trade were surprised to find that people living this far-north weren’t harsh and basic, but rather they were speaking multiple languages, wearing the finest Parisian clothing, and had many cultural events.

    Tromsø is one of the few places in Northern Norway that wasn’t destroyed during World War II, so has a number of wooden houses from the 19th century.

    Today Tromsø has a population of around 70,000 and is a major university town. Tromsø also has one of the major hospitals for Northern Norway.

    Tromsø Travel Guide
  • Stavanger, Walking Guides

    Stavanger City Centre & Gamle Stavanger – Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Stavanger City Centre & Gamle Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Follow my Stavanger self-guided walking tour! Stavanger is Norway’s fourth-largest city and home to the oil industry. While much of the city has a modern feel, Stavanger is in fact one of the oldest cities in Norway. It was a known settlement during the Viking Age, and Stavanger Cathedral is regarded as the oldest and best-preserved cathedral in Norway. This walk will take you past the major highlights of the city as well as through the beautiful Gamle Stavanger neighbourhood.

    Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    I offer downloadable versions of my self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins at the main square. 

    Torget

    Torget is the central point of Stavanger and therefore a fitting place to start a walking tour. Throughout Stavanger’s history, the square has been an important gathering place and market place.

    Until the 11th century, this place was a bay in the middle of a sandy beach. It was eventually filled in and extended. The square was probably owned by the bishop, who had a pier (Bispebrygga) built here and sand embankments were laid out. In the mid-13th century, a long quay was built over the lower part of the square. It’s not exactly known when the quay was redeveloped into a square, but it was first mentioned around the 16th century as a square. After being developed as a square, Torget also became the place where public executions were carried out, with neck irons being placed in the centre of the square.

    The market here was very popular. The farmers sold handicraft products, fruit, vegetables, spice, butter, cake, hides, cod liver oil, honey, and cheese. Old items were also sold, like a flea market.

    During World War II, the Nazis took over the square and built shelters here. The western part of the square was cut off with large fences and barbed wire.

    Today Torget has a new fish market building and several restaurants. More houses originally stood here, but over the last century they were removed. All the old warehouses are now restaurants and bars.

    In the square you’ll see a statue of Alexander Kielland, one of the most well-known people from Stavanger.

    Byparken

    Byparken is Stavanger’s central park. Until the 1960s, the park was owned by the Kongsgård property, and the part closest to the cathedral used to be a cemetery. It’s believed there was a lavish garden here as far back as 1299.

    Kongsgård Royal Estate

    Kongsgård is the site of a historic royal residence.

    The first buildings on the site are believed to have been constructed around the year 1100, roughly the same time Stavanger Cathedral was built. The original buildings were wooden, but they were replaced with brick buildings at the beginning of the 13th century. The first written mention of the bishop’s residence was in 1297, and several rooms are mentioned as well as a farm and surrounding walls. The walls are believed to have been 2 metres thick, and parts can be seen on the side facing Haakon VII’s gate.

    After the Reformation, the King took over the building and the function changed and it became an official residence for the sheriff and other county officials. There was an attempt to burn down the building by pirates in 1539, and by 1601 the complex was described as dilapidated. 

    Today it is a school

    Stavanger Cathedral

    Stavanger Cathedral is the oldest cathedral in Norway and is also the cathedral that has retained its medieval appearance to the greatest extent and the only one that has been in continuous use since the 14th century.

    Stavanger was founded in 1125, and this is also the time the cathedral was built. The cathedral is dedicated to Saint Swithun (his relic – an arm – was popular with pilgrims) and is designed in a Norman style, with basket-handle Romanesque arches. After a fire badly damaged the church in the 13th century, a new chancel was added in the Gothic style.

    The cathedral became the seat of a Roman Catholic bishop after the Diocese of Stavanger was established. From the Reformation and a few years later, the diocese was governed from Bergen.

    During a renovation in the 1860s, the cathedral’s exterior and interior were considerably altered. The stone walls were plastered and the cathedral lost much of its medieval appearance. In the mid-20th century, a major restoration aimed to reverse the changes.

    Stavanger Cathedral is currently under a major restoration project that will last until 2025.

    The Ruins of St. Mary's Church

    This is the site where St. Mary’s Church stood from the 12th century until the 19th century, when it was torn down.

    It is uncertain why St. Mary’s Church stood so close to Stavanger Cathedral. One theory is that is a replacement cathedral from the great fire of 1272. Above all, it took a long time to rebuild the cathedral, so it was necessary to have a temporary house of worship. Another theory is that it was a separate independent church. The church may be from the 12th century. Around that time churches called St. Mary’s went up in Nidaros, Bergen, Oslo and Tønsberg.


    However, the church fell into disrepair after the Reformation in 1537. It became a hangout for the towns drunkards. In 1565, the town’s bourgeoisie took over the church and converted into a town hall and parliament. The city’s gallows stood outside. A prison was built in the church and developed a bad reputation for great suffering.


    The church later became the local fire station as well (I guess the tower’s make for a good lookout!). Less than 20 years later, the fire brigade and prison moved out. A city engineer proposed that the building is antique and thus should be torn down. The city demolished the church in 1883.

    It’s a little tricky to see the ruins, but if you look at the picture above, you’ll see they’ve put some picnic benches there!

    Laugmannsgata

    Laugmannsgata is one of the city’s oldest streets, linking Domkirkeplassen to the street Arneageren. The name comes from two lawyers who lived at the Bishop’s Estate in the 18th century.

    Arneageren

    Arneageren is a public square. It is home to the culture house, which was built in 1987. The culture house has various galleries, cafes, kiosks, a cinema, and an art school for kids.

    The Film Theatre building is next to the culture house and is a little older (it’s the distinctive brown building). Dating to 1924, the building is designed in the neoclassical style. It is regarded as one of the most important representatives of this style in Rogaland county. The Film Theatre was rebuilt in connection with the culture house in 1988. The square is well-known in Stavanger and throughout the week there are political and religious organisations distributing brochures. There is also regular music from groups and street musicians.

    Søregata

    Søregata runs along the border of the old Arnegård farm. While the street itself is old, the exact age is unknown. In the 19th century, this street was known for its many eateries and bars. Many workers and sailors lived along this street and there was a liquor distillery at the end. The cafes would display the dish of the day in the window. It’s not like the Asian restaurants that have plastic displays in the window; these cafes would use real food. By the end of the day, the food had attracted many flies.

    Kirkegata

    Kirkegata is the first ever pedestrian street in Norway – announced in 1960. The name means ‘Church Street’, so the street leads to Stavanger Cathedral. If you turn left you’ll be at Stavanger Cathedral in two blocks.


    It’s believed that Kirkegata was a street from before the year 1100. It’s had different names throughout history, including Urgata and Holmengata. Urgata refers to a natural clock. One theory is that building materials for Stavanger Cathedral were stored here, and that a wrecked stone was tipped down and turned into a clock. Holmen refers to the flat edge near the water – today it’s the name of the northern part of Stavanger inner city. After the fire of 1860, the street got the name Kirkegata.

    Steinkargata

    This is an old street that linked the two main streets Østervåg with Kirkegata. It previously had the name “The Street to Østervåg”, indicating its purpose. Today’s name refers to a stone vessel used to moor boats. A wharf called “Laksebrygga” (Salmon Wharf) used to be here. Until the 1850s, fishermen docked here. The 1860 fire destroyed both sides of the street, so everything was rebuilt after that.

    Østervåg

    We’ve made it to Østervåg! This is the city’s main street. The name roughly means ‘East Bay’ and refers to the stretch of sea nearby. Østervåg was the natural harbour for scheduled shipping traffic and the fishing fleet. The bay area used to have shipyards.

    Østervåg is one of the most important streets from the Middle Ages. The property Arnegård was here, and Østevåg ran through it. The street linked the bishop’s pier (Bispebrygga) to the Stavanger Cathedral. Østervåg is first mentioned in 1297 in relation to this pier. It’s believed that this was the medieval town centre.


    The area we are on is very narrow, but it gradually becomes wider. This marks where the 1860 fire spread. The narrower part of the street was untouched, whereas the wider part of the street had burned down and was regulated and levelled after the fire. The fire started at the corner of Østervåg and Breigata.

    Norwegian Oil Museum

    The Norwegian Oil Museum is an excellent place to learn about the Norwegian oil industry. The museum covers the entirety of Norway’s oil journey. It stars from early exploration to discovery, foreign help and current environmental concerns. The museum has a lot of information boards, photographs, footage, and objects used to help develop the oil platforms.

    Click here to view the museum website. 

    My article about the oil museum

    Øvre Holmegate

    Øvre Holmegate – better known as ‘Fargegaten’ (The Colourful Street) – has become one of the most famous streets in Stavanger. It started in 2005, when hairdresser Tom Kjørsvik wanted to create a vibrant environment so more people would visit his salon. The houses were to be painted in a ‘Miami Vice’ colour scheme as proposed by the Scottish artist Craig Flannagan. It’s not about the individual colours, but rather everything working together.

    Some of the building owners did not approve of the final design. Some owners didn’t want a pink house, for example, while some specifically wanted it. After each change was agreed on, the street was designed to create harmony. Only one building on the street chose not to participate.

    Valberget

    Valberget Viewpoint is the site of the city’s old fortress. The date of the fortress is unknown. The land was likely given to Stavanger during the Nordic Seven Years’ War in 1567. The city likely needed defence for the sea after the Swedes were trying to take Bergen from the sea in 1564.
    Above all, fires have destroyed the fortress many times. There’s not much of the original fortress remaining. Its current appearance is from the 19th century. They had 12 12-pound cannons circling the tower. In 1840, they discarded the cannons when four men went on trial for refusing to shoot with them. They were acquired because the cannons were proven to be life threatening. Today the cannons are decorations on the viewpoint.


    The tower is not original – it was built in 1850 and is a lookout tower.

    Skagen

    Skagen is a street that runs parallel along the bay, Vågen, linking Torget to Holmen. It is one of the city’s liveliest streets with many shops and nightclubs. But it is also home to some of Stavanger’s oldest buildings.


    That is to say, the name Skagen is common all throughout Scandinavia and refers to a headland. It’s believed the street was here in the Middle Ages and is largely unchanged from the 13th century. Archaeological finds show that there were buildings here in the Middle Ages.


    You are in the upper part of Skagen, making our way down to the lower and older part.
    The Clarion Hotel is where a cannery used to be. The cannery ran for three generations before being demolished in 1964 and replaced with the hotel. For example, Chr. Bjelland & Co, is one of Stavanger’s most famous canneries (see the history section at the start of this guide).


    As you walk along Skagen, you’ll notice many references to shipbuilding, merchants, and steamships (dampskip). It indicates what exactly this street was used for.

    Skagen 18

    Skagen 18 is one of the city’s oldest and most famous buildings. It is from after the 1684 fire, though a building stood here before then. The oldest known inhabitants are Sidsel Olsdatter Cruys and Albert Albertsen Libert. They aren’t famous Norwegians; just residents who have been remembered in history thanks to their house being the longest lasting. They lived here between 1687 and 1700. Moreover, inside the building are rosemaling decorations from before 1710. Merchant and shipowner Ole Smith Plow is the next owner; establishing his business in 1768.

    Gamle Stavanger

    The oldest and best-preserved neighbourhood in Stavanger is Gamle Stavanger (‘Old Stavanger’). Here you’ll find around 200 wooden houses that date back to the 18th and 19th centuries. The neighbourhood was built up as a result of rich herring fishing, shipping and shipbuilding, and Stavanger had a huge population growth as a result. This was primarily a working class neighbourhood.

    After World War II, city planners wanted to rebuild the area with modern, concrete structures to have even more housing in the city. After the war, the houses of Gamle Stavanger were run down and seen as an undesirable place to live. Thanks to a campaign led by architect Einar Heden, the city council voted to conserve the area in 1956. Since then, many of the buildings have been restored.

    When walking through Gamle Stavanger, this guide doesn’t go house-by-house as limited information is available on the specific houses. Rather, this guide will lead you on the prettiest route around the neighbourhood. 

    Stavanger Maritime Museum

    The Stavanger Maritime Museum is located in two former warehouses. The museum itself covers the maritime history of Stavanger, including replica offices and stores through to archaeological finds, paintings of ships, model boats, and historic photos.   

    Click here to view their website. 

    Øvre Strandgate

    Øvre Strandgate is where the best wooden houses are preserved in Stavanger. Make your way down the street, admiring the old wooden houses along the way.

    Norwegian Canning Museum

    Located in an old sardine factory, this museum tells the story of the industry that saved Stavanger from economic collapse at the end of the 19th century. Canning remained Stavanger’s main source of employment until as late as 1960; in the 1920s there were 70 canneries in the city, and the last one closed down in 1983.

    Click here to view their website. 

    Øvre Strandgate 90

    This is a restored residential house. The house is built in the Empire style and is an excellent example of what a residential building looked like in the 19th century. The house was built in 1836 by blacksmith Peder Pedersen Thilo, originally from Voss. The same family lived in the house for over four generations. The house was given to the Stavanger Museum in 1997 and opened to the public in 2000.

    Villa Blidensol

    Villa Blidensol is Stavanger’s oldest building, after the Cathedral and the Bishop’s Chapel.


    Blidensol is first mentioned on a map in 1726. It is next mentioned in a written source in 1737. The building itself is thought to be from 1777, though some believe it is older – it’s hard to know what’s original, what was moved here, etc. The villa is built in an Empire style that was probably added in the period 1805-1820. Much of the interior is unchanged.


    The first known owner is Laurits Andersen Smith (1680-1758). He bought several smaller plots and merged them into a large estate. The name isn’t very Norwegian; that is because he came from Scotland. Laurits is the son of Andrew Smith, who did the wood carvings inside Stavanger Cathedral. They owned the home until 1825. From then on, the large estate was continuously subdivided into smaller plots.

    When lawyer Christen Iben Minos bought the house in the mid-1980s, it was quite decayed. He and his wife extensively restored and modernised the house, though keeping it in an old style. Today the villa is privately owned and it’s a little tricky to see.

    Stavanger Tourist Office/Street Art

    This walk ends outside the Stavanger Tourist Office, where you’ll also find this impressive street artwork showing the relationship between Stavanger and Houston, Texas, thanks to the oil industry.

    Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Enjoy your walk around Stavanger! If you want a self-guided walk with more details, be sure to buy my downloadable Stavanger self-guided walking tour. 

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Longyearbyen, Svalbard, Walking Guides

    Longyearbyen Town Centre – Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Longyearbyen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Follow my Longyearbyen self-guided walking tour for the best overview of the town! Located at 78 degrees north, Longyearbyen is the northernmost settlement in the world. With a population of around 2,500 people, the town is a thriving area with cool restaurants, bars, shops and day-trips around the archipelago. However, Longyearbyen wasn’t always this comfortable and modern town. For most of the town’s 100 year history, it was a harsh, hostile and difficult place to live. Most of the town is owned by the mining company that established it, and even today it feels like a company town. This walk around Longyearbyen covers the modern centre but also the historic past of the town.

    Longyearbyen Travel Guide
    Svalbard Travel Guide

    Longyearbyen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Longyearbyen Travel Guide
    Svalbard Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    I offer downloadable versions of my self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Longyearbyen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins at the Radisson Blu Polar Hotel. 

    Radisson Blu Polar Hotel

    This walk begins at the Radisson Blu Hotel. The hotel was constructed here using buildings from the 1994 Lillehammer Winter Olympics.

    Kullungen Daycare

    The daycare opened in 1997. The building has a pile foundation, where wooden piles are permanently frozen in the permafrost and the building is built on top. On Svalbard this is a common way for the foundations of the buildings. Elsewhere the building is clad with lath paneling, treated with iron vitriol and the roof is covered with lath roofing felt. The fence around the kindergarten is to protect children from polar bears. Kids in Norway typically start daycare around the age of 1.

    Iconic Longyearbyen Houses

    These houses are from the 1970s and are nicknamed “The Indian Village”. They are all on a road called Hilmar Rekstens Vei, named after the main chairman and shareholder of SNSK from the war up to 1962.

    After more mines opened in the 1950s and 1960s, more homes for the families were required and with better standards. The town began to spread down into the valley. The first houses were built here in the 1970s. The neighbourhood is called “Lia”.

    The Blåmyra dormitories were built in 1981. They were intended to provide the miners with better living conditions than the two-man rooms in Nybyen.

    Lompen Senteret

    Lompen Senteret was built in 1985, but first it was a cloakroom, café and laundry for the miners. The work clothes for the miners are called lomps, and here the coal-black mining buses were cleaned and changed into clean clothes. It was converted into a shopping mall in 1997 and is today the northernmost shopping mall in the world. It has eateries, a pub, café, wellness centre, outdoor clothes, and souvenirs.

    Be sure to try the local chocolate brand Fruene. The coffee here is also fantastic!

    The Svalbard Store

    The complex to your left is the Svalbard Store. Inside you’ll find ‘Nordpolet’ (the liquor store – a play on the Norwegian name ‘Vinmonopolet’) and a Coop grocery store. There are also some nice souvenirs in here. Coop is the only grocery store on Svalbard.

    In Svalbard the residents are limited to a certain quota of alcohol. Every month, residents can buy up to two bottles of spirits or up to four bottles of wine, or up to 24 cans of beer. All residents have a purchase permit card. People who do not live on Svalbard can buy as much as they want – just show a travel document in the form of a plane ticket when buying alcohol.

    Mine 1a

    High up on the hill you can see the cableway system of the first mines to be constructed on Svalbard. The cableway system carried the coal from the mine to the pier, where it would be loaded onto boats for export.

    Apartment Complex

    Most people on Svalbard live in apartments, and here you can see some typical apartment buildings. Note that they resemble worker’s barracks, referencing Longyearbyen’s past as a mining town. Here you can also see the pipes above the ground; as there is permafrost here, nothing can be buried into the ground.

    Huset

    Off in the distance to the left is Huset. Huset was built in 1951 and is referred to as the ‘heart of Longyearbyen’. In the building was a cinema, a school, an exercise room and some apartments. In recent years, the building has been transformed into one of the most high-end restaurant experiences in Longyearbyen.

    Longyearbyen Old Town Building Remains

    The posts you see sticking up from the ground are where buildings stood before World War II. Most of these buildings were barracks for the miners, but they were destroyed when the Nazis bombed Longyearbyen. Today the site is under cultural heritage protection.

    John Longyear Memorial

    On your left, next to the post remains, you’ll see a plaque commemorating John Longyear, the founder of Longyearbyen.

    Svalbard Church

    The first church was built on Svalbard in 1921, and Paster Frederick Thorleif Østenstad served as the first clergyman. The mining company built the church and owned it; they also paid for the pastor’s travel and accommodation. When Longyearbyen was being evacuated during World War II, pastor Just Phillip Christian Kruse took the altar silver, baptismal bowl, baptismal jug and church book with him and went to Scotland. The original church burned down in 1943. The remains are visible beneath the red barracks, Formannhuset, located south of Longyearbyen nursery school.

    The current Svalbard Church was built in 1958. The items that were saved have been placed inside the church. The church is non-denominational and open 24/7.

    The Cableway System

    You can see rows of trestles leading from it in several directions. All of Longyearbyen’s mines (except 3 and 4) are high up on the steep mountainside. There was nowhere to store coal, and it had to be stored because the fjord ice prevents it from being shipped for around 6 months of the year. John Longyear chose a cableway as a means of transport.

    The first cableway ran from the American Mine, Mine 1a, to the depot and loading dock. In summer the ships were loaded by cableway from the mines and using a four-track railway from the winter depot. There was only one cableway until SNSK built the new Mine, Mine 2a. The cableway crossed the valley via six tall steel trestles. It was destroyed during 1941.

    The name of the wooden structure to the right is ‘Kurven’ – it is where the cableway system curves up to the depot, which you’ll see soon.

    This is the structure where all the cableways from the different mines met. From here, the coal would be transported down to the pier. The man who ran Taubanesentralen had a lot of power – he could decide would mine could send its coal down to the depot and dock. The structure was like a railway station – here the wagons would be sent off in different directions once they got clearance. From here coal was also taken to the power station. The cableways ran all year round day and night and were only interrupted by maintenance. At Christmas the ‘Christmas Bucket’ made the rounds; it was decorated with motifs and lights.

    The current structure you see was built in 1957.

    Bell Tower & Flag Pole

    The flagpole is where Longyearbyen’s celebrations took place. It was first used on the 14th of August 1925, when Svalbard became part of the Kingdom of Norway. This is where the May Day and Constitution Day parades end. The bell tower next to it is from 1949. The bell was cast in SNSK’s mechanical workshop. The idea came from the miners bell in Røros, a famous mining town on the mainland and now a UNESCO World Heritage area. The bell was also used as a church bell until 1958.

    Here you will also see a memorial for those who lost their lives during world War II.

    The Governor's Residence

    The building was completed in 1950. The buildings are in a square around a courtyard with a large gate. The two story is referred to as a ‘palace’ by the locals in Svalbard. The three story concrete tower looks like it belongs to a castle, which was probably the intention. The small extension close to the storehouse is the only surviving part of the residence from 1934. It has been used as a jail and is currently an outbuilding. Outside the courtyard is the governors garage, one of the few garages for private vehicles in Longyearbyen.

    Shortly after passing the governor’s residence, you’ll pass a white stone building on your right – this is another cold food storage area.

    Coal Power Plant

    This is the main power plant for Longyearbyen and is powered by coal, which is fitting considering the close proximity to the mines. Today’s power station is the third generation of coal power stations in Longyearbyen. Approximately one third of the coal produced in Longyearbyen goes to the power station, which produces hot water, heat and electricity for the town. All the buildings in Longyearbyen are heated by waterborne heat. The red and white building is a food storage building.

    Circle K & Toyota Dealership

    You’re now passing by the northernmost petrol station in the world, and (of course), the northernmost Toyota Dealership in the world!

    Svalbard University Centre & Museum

    A large number of people living in Svalbard are students who have come to study here. The Svalbard University Centre works closely with the Arctic University in Tromsø.

    In the same building complex as the university is the Svalbard Museum. This is a fantastic museum that covers the history of Svalbard, from the early days of hunters and explorers through to the future of Svalbard. It also includes exhibitions on the flora and fauna found on the archipelago.

    View the museum website here. 

    Cafe Huskies

    Cafe Huskies is a brand-new cafe in Longyearbyen that is home to several huskies who will join you on your visit. The coffee here is excellent and there’s a charming little gift shop.

    Visit their website here. 

    Longyearbyen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Enjoy your walk around Longyearbyen! If you want a self-guided walk with more details, be sure to buy my downloadable Longyearbyen self-guided walking tour. 

    Longyearbyen Travel Guide
    Svalbard Travel Guide
  • Bergen, Dalen, Oslo, Stavanger, Telemark, Trondheim

    The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    Norway is the land of folktales and trolls, but haunted places can be a little tricky to find. In fact, when I was making a ghost tour of Bergen, I got stuck because many Norwegians don’t believe in ghosts! Still, with all the history to be found in Norway, there have been some gruesome incidents that have led to tales of hauntings, so I did a deep dive online to find the most haunted places in the country.

    Here are some of the stories on the most haunted places in Norway that I found. Will you add these to your Norwegian adventure? Be sure to let me know!

    The Most Haunted Places in Bergen

    I wrote a seperate guide for the most haunted places in Bergen, which you can view below. 

    Haunted Places in Bergen

    The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    Akershus Fortress (Oslo)

    Akershus Fortress is probably one of the least surprising haunted location Norway. There are few places in Norway that have more supernatural tales than in the fortress. Most of the stories come from the time the fortress functioned as a prison for Norway’s most notorious criminals. During their time at the prison, they would be forced to do hard labour and the prison guards used irons, chains and isolation as disciplinary techniques. There have been reports of whispers and scratching along the fortress hallways.

    There is another haunted tale of Akershus Fortress – the demon dog Malcanisen. It is said of Malcanisen approaches you, then it means you will soon die; everyone who encounters him dies within three months. There have also been sightings of ‘nightpyres’ – burning women the size of babies with awful smiles. Their appearance is thought to precede a fire at the fortress. 

    Book a Ghost Tour of Oslo
    Oslo Travel Guide

    Nidaros Cathedral (Trondheim)

    I remember visiting Nidaros Cathedral with the intent of learning about the ghost stories, as this one fascinated me the most. Considering the cathedral’s history, it is probably not so surprising that there are tales of ghosts here. 

    The ghost here is in fact a monk. The monk was first seen in 1924 by bishop Marie Gleditsch, who claimed the apparition had a bloody gash along its throat as though it had just been cut. There was even blood dripping from the wound!

    There have been frequent reports of inexplicable chanting and organ music in the cathedral late at night. 

    However, keep in mind this ghost is a little controversial as historians claim no order of monks were ever connected to the cathedral. 

    Munkholmen (Trondheim)

    This tiny island has been an abbey, fort and a prison. People have heard and seen mysterious appearances here. Many believe the ghost to be the famous prisoner Peder Schumacher Griffenfeld, who was imprisoned on the island for 18 years.

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Utstein Kloster (Stavanger)

    Utstein Abbey is the only medieval monastery in Norway that’s still in operation. As a former monastery, it has housed many men – but it’s a woman’s presence that still lingers in the place today. In the 18th century, the monastery was bought by the Garmann family. Christoffer Garmann lived there with his wife, Cecilia, who unfortunately died in childbirth in 1759 at 25 years old. Despite his promise to her on her deathbed that he would never marry again, Christoffer got engaged to a woman 36 years younger than him (!) 20 years later.

    Hoping to escape the promise to his wife, he arranged for the wedding to happen in Stavanger Cathedral. But Cecilia found him anyway, appearing in front of him in the middle of the ceremony. Christoffer died eight days later. Cecilia has been seen wandering the monastery in her wedding dress, presumably to make a point.

    Stavanger Travel Guide

    Dalen Hotel (Dalen)

    It’s not just historic fortresses and churches that are haunted, but hotels too! Dalen is one of the most beautiful historic hotels in Norway. . Located in the small village of Dalen in Telemark, the hotel was built in the late 19th century to accommodate guests taking the Telemark Canal. Guests and staff share accounts of Room 17’s notoriety, where the spirit referred to as “The English Lady” lingers in her eternal unrest.

    Originally known as Miss Greenfield of England, she arrived at Dalen Hotel one spring morning during the late 19th century and stayed as a guest for several months. Remarkably, her pregnancy remained a secret from the hotel’s staff. After she left, they made a grim discovery in the room – a lifeless infant. Miss Greenfield was arrested and charged with murder but took her own life before the trial could begin.

    To this day, a table is set for her at the hotel restaurant. The sound of a baby crying can be heard. 

    Source (Article in Norwegian)

    Dalen Travel Guide

    Hotel Union Øye (Øye)

    Hotel Union Øye is a charming historic hotel located in the Sunnmøre region near the Hjørundfjord and Geirangerfjord. Here, though, a tragic love story took place at the end of the 19th century. 

    This ghost story involves Linda, a servant girl who fell in love with a German officer. The officer was trapped in an unhappy marriage and he fell in love with Linda. Whenever the officer would visit the hotel, he and Linda would stay in the ‘Blue Room’.

    The officer tried to get a divorce but was denied. This upset him to the point that he committed suicide. As you can imagine, Linda was heartbroken by this. She ended up taking her own life too.

    People hear the ghost of Linda weeping in the Blue Room. Guests checking into the hotel get a silver bowl of garlic. If you’ve had a long trip and just don’t feel in the mood for ghostly shenanigans, you can keep the bowl in your room. However, if you’re curious, all you have to do is leave the bowl outside the door and wait. 

    Source (Article in Norwegian)

    Bærums Verk (Oslo)

    Bærums Verk is a historic village and ironworks located just out of Oslo. The Værtshuset restaurant here is one of the most notorious haunted places in the country – it is also one of the oldest restaurants of its kind in Norway as it opened in 1640. Many accounts of supernatural occurrences have been documented here. Many attribute these phenomena to the ghostly presence of Anna Krefting, the woman who managed and oversaw Bærums Verk for five decades during the 18th century. She has been spotted several times in the restaurants second floor, eternally dressed in green.

    In the administration building of Bærum Verks shopping district, there have been reports of a phone that rings every night at the exact same time. Those who pick up never hear anything but an odd, static hissing sound in the other end.

    Lier Asylum

    Lier Asylum is probably the most famous of the haunted places in Norway, at least among Norwegians. The old Lier Psychiatric Hospital opened in 1926. Between the 1930s and 1960s, the hospital started “experimental treatments” which included subjecting patients to lobotomies, LSD, and medically induced comas for days at a time. Due to the disproportionate ratio of patients to nurses, there were lots of reports of violence. Many of the old buildings have been torn down to make way for new housing, and the other buildings will also be renovated as apartments. Would you buy an apartment in that building?

    Article about Lier Asylum (in Norwegian)

    The Church Ruins of Nes (Vormsund)

    Over time, there have been accounts of peculiar phenomena, strange noises and unusual illuminations within the ruins of Nes Church in Vormsund. At the heart of these occurrences lies the enigmatic figure of Jacob Christian Finckenhagen, a priest who served the church from 1800 to 1837.

    The tales surrounding his life and fate remain a subject of controversy. Some assert that his offspring are interred within the walls behind the alter, while others claim he met his demise by hanging from the church rafters.

    Alternatively, it’s suggested that he simply succumbed to old age. Regardless of the uncertainty, numerous reports persist of his restless spirit wandering the church ruins during the night. Some visitors claim their movements become impaired and sluggish like they are submerged in water.

    Fredriksten Fortress (Halden)

    Fredriksten is a historic fortress in the town of Halden and is historically one of Norway’s most significant fortresses.

    Here you’ll find the White Lady – Den Hvite Dame – who is said to reside at the fortress. She was once the fortress commander’s mistress. After her lover was killed by a cannonball fired by Swedish forces attacking the fortress, his remains were not recovered. She killed herself by jumping off the fortress wall and is said to appear near the white tower at midnight.

    The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    There are so many fascinating historic sites in Norway, and the fact that they have these tales and legends makes them even more interesting to visit. Would you visit these haunted places in Norway?

    If I’ve missed a story, be sure to let me know!

  • Ålesund, Where to Stay

    Where to Stay in Ålesund, from a Tour Leader’s Perspective

    Where to Stay in Ålesund from a Tour Leader's Perspective

    Ålesund is a beautiful city. The whole city is designed in the iconic art nouveau style of architecture, and is a perfect city to start a West Norwegian fjord road-trip in. After all, Ålesund is close to the spectacular Geirangerfjord. But where can you stay in Ålesund?

    I’ve put together this guide for the best places to stay in Ålesund based on my experience going there for work as a tour leader but also the times I’ve been there for my work on this website. I was surprised by the lack of hotels in Ålesund – there are far less hotels here than in other big tourist cities like Trondheim and Bergen. Also, many of the hotels that are available are rather high-end. Still, there is a good selection here!

    Tip: Book the hotel as far in advance as possible. Good hotels sell out months in advance and up to a year in advance if during the northern lights season, so you don’t want to miss out on a good price and good hotel. 

    Affiliate links: None of the hotels recommended here are paid placements or have sponsored this article in any way. This guide comes from my years of experience travelling to Ålesund for work and holiday, and I’m simply choosing the hotels I believe to be the best choice. That said, if you book through the link provided here, I get a small commission at no extra cost to you, and that money contributes to this website. I appreciate any support I can get 🙂

    Price Range:

    Budget: Less than 1000 NOK a night
    Mid-range: 1000 – 2000 NOK a night
    High end: 2000+ NOK a night

    I looked at one night in August 2024 for two people and sorted the prices according to that. 

    In this article...

    The E39 Highway

    Ålesund is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    The E39 Highway
    Ålesund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Ålesund is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Be sure to check out my Ålesund travel guide, which includes practical information about travelling there but also information about the various settlements and wildlife. 

    Map of Ålesund

    Ålesund City Centre

    Why Stay Here?

    Look, Ålesund isn’t exactly Paris! There aren’t right neighbourhoods and places to be. The whole town is the city centre! Still, it’s important to keep in mind things like hills, proximity to museums and restaurants, and parking spaces. 

    High End

    Hotel Brosundet

    Located by the sund (strait) that gives the name Ålesund, Hotel Brosundet is my top pick for a stay in Ålesund. The hotel is a historic warehouse built in the classic Art Nouveau style. You can visit the on-site Arkivet bar and the breakfast buffet focuses on locally produced foods. The hotel is located close to the Art Nouveau Museum.

    One unique aspect of this hotel is that you can book a night in a lighthouse. Molja Lighthouse, the iconic red lighthouse you see at the entrance to the strait, can be booked at a premium price.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Hotel 1904

    Hotel 1904 is a beautifully restored bank building in the heart of Ålesund. The hotel has 81 rooms with a modern design. Part of the hotel is the dining lounge Green Garden – located both inside and outside of Hotel 1904’s old backyard. There is even an on-site architecture office here.

    The hotel is located very close to Byparken and the hike to Mt. Aksla. It is also located in the shopping district.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Most of these hotels are priced the same – just under 2000 NOK a night. 

    Quality Hotel Ålesund

    The Quality Hotel Ålesund is located close to the coastal ferry pier and some of the rooms overlook the sea and surrounding islands. All the rooms are inspired by Art Nouveau design and you can choose between a sea or a street view. The on-site restaurant Social Bar serves traditional Norwegian dishes made from local produce.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Quality Hotel Waterfront

    Located close to the city centre (about a five minute walk away!), this hotel is located on the waterfront facing out to the Sula mountain and bay area.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Thon Hotel Ålesund 

    The Thon Hotels are a huge chain, so if you want no fuss this is the hotel for you. All the rooms are modern, practical but also simple, and the hotel is in a great location. Private parking is available at the hotel, which also makes it a convenient place to stay for road-trippers.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Hotel Noreg

    Hotel Noreg is one of the cheaper options in Ålesund. The hotel is located close to the coastal ferry terminal.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Scandic Parken

    Located in central Ålesund on a hill next to Byparken, Scandic Parken is another chain hotel that, like Thon, offers practical and modern rooms. Scandic hotels are particularly known for their breakfast. There is a parking lot in the hotel where you can park for an extra fee. It’s a bit of a steep climb from the city centre to Scandic Parken for some.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Aalesund Airport Hotel

    Aalesund Hotel is one of the cheapest hotels I could find close to the city centre. The hotel is located about 7 minutes by car from Ålesund city centre and is located by the coast. Breakfast is available at an additional fee (157 NOK per person) and free public parking is available on site. Close by is the historic Giske Island, where you can see the 12th century Giske Church.  

    Volsdalen Camping

    This is one of the most budget hotels I could find in Åleusnd. The campground offers cabins for two people without a private bathroom from 730 NOK a night, while cabins with private bathrooms go for 1,100 NOK a night. There’s also spots for caravans and tents.

    In the Countryside

    Why Stay Here?

    If you stay 15-20 minutes by car out of Ålesund, you’ll find yourself in a beautiful setting by a fjord, strait, or sea. This option is perfect for those road-tripping; the hotels further out of Ålesund all come with free parking. 

    High End

    Storfjord Hotel

    This hotel is wonderful. Located in the secluded hills overlooking the Storfjord, this hotel is designed almost like a farmhouse or cabin and offers a wide range of activities from kayaking to hikes and food tastings.

    Visit Website

    Mid Range

    Jervell Gjestehus

    Jervell Gjestehus is located just out of town close to the E136 highway and the Sunnmøre open-air museum. Jervell Gjestehus is a historic mansion built in 1910 in the Swiss chalet, Norwegian dragestil and Art Nouveau styles. There are five rooms in the guest house, each with their own private bathrooms.

    It only takes five minutes to drive into the city centre from the hotel. I actually really like the location! You stay in the area Borgund, which is considered to be the first settlement around Ålesund. There’s a Medieval Museum and open-air museum here, as well as a walking trail where you can see a German bunker from World War II. Borgund Church, located by the hotel, is a stone church from 1150.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Sunde Fjord Hotel

    Located south of Ålesund by the E39 highway, this hotel is surrounded by mountains and fjords. Free parking is available on site, making it an excellent option for road-trippers, and there are some hiking trails close by. Breakfast is included and the hotel is decorated with original prints and paintings. A cabin-style suite here is only 2,220 NOK a night and comes with a private balcony overlooking the sea.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Brattvåg Hotel

    Located north of Ålesund in the small village of Brattvåg, this hotel has lovely views out to the surrounding area. There’s free parking, breakfast included, and two restaurants on site. The rooms themselves are a little basic, but the hotel is good value for money.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Runde Miljosenter

    Located by Runde Harbour, this hotel is in fact self-catering apartments. Every apartment is modern with a fully equipped kitchen and sea views. Free parking is available. Runde is famous as one of the best places in Norway to see puffins in the summer months, and you can also go hiking or take boat trips around the island.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Borg Sommerhotell

    Located in a neighbourhood close to Blindheim and the E39 highway, Borg Sommerhotell is only open in the summer months (as the name implies) and has free parking, clean and simple rooms with private bathrooms, and nice views out to the mountains.

    Final Thoughts on Where to Stay in Ålesund

    Ålesund is somewhat limited in options, but I think the big choice you need to make is whether to stay in the city or countryside. This depends a lot on whether or not you have a vehicle, of course. 

    The E39 Highway

    Ålesund is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    The E39 Highway
    Ålesund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Ålesund is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Bergen

    Which Fjord Cruise Should You Book From Bergen?

    Which Fjord Cruise Should You Take from Bergen?

    One of the big reasons people come to Bergen is to see the fjords. After all, Bergen is nicknamed the ‘Gateway to the Fjords’ because of the city’s close proximity to the most spectacular fjords in the country. Naturally, there are many different fjord cruises available. It can be tricky figuring out which one is the best one, so I’ve written a fjord cruise guide for Bergen!

    When I was looking at the list, I was comparing a few different things. First, it’s important to understand that not all fjords are the same. Just because a cruise lists all the fjords they go down, doesn’t mean these are interesting fjords! For the dramatic scenery, you need to travel deep into the country. This means that you’ll be picking a full-day trip out of Bergen. 

    Another thing many overlook is how boring it can be travelling on the fjords. Yes, the fjords and beautiful and why many come to Norway, but honestly if you’re doing a three or four hour cruise on the one fjord, you aren’t getting a lot of variety.

    Lastly, and most importantly, do not book through third-party tour companies. If you see companies offering these cruises as a package, they are just buying public transport tickets and selling them to you at a huge fee. Always book directly through the cruise company (I’ve linked them below). Even though I use affiliate links to websites like GetYourGuide, on this page I’m specifically avoiding it as I don’t want you to be ripped off booking third party. 

    So, based on that, here’s my guide to the fjord cruises with links to learn about the cruise directly on their website.

    Fjord Cruise Bergen Guide

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    You can learn more about Bergen on my dedicated travel guide page. 

    Short Cruises (2 hours)

    Any cruise two hours or less won’t get you out to the best fjords, but it is a chance to get out on the water and see Bergen from a different perspective. 

    Viking Ship Cruise

    Length: 90 minutes

    This short trip will take you around Bergen and the Byfjord (the fjord running along the city of Bergen), and while it won’t get you to the dramatic or impressive fjords, it does put you on a replica of a Viking ship! The ship is beautiful and the crew explains how the ship works while you cruise around Bergen.

    I highly recommend this experience!

    Learn more here: https://vikingvoyages.no/

    Bergen Yacht Tour

    Length: 2 hours

    This two hour guided sightseeing tour takes you a chance to see the city of Bergen from the sea. The yacht stays close to Bergen city centre, but you get a unique view of Nordnes, the fortress, Bryggen, and the surrounding neighbourhoods. You won’t see any fjords or steep mountains on this tour, but it’s a unique way to view Bergen.

    You can learn more on their website: https://firstplayer.no/ 

    Bergen Private Yacht Tour

    If you’ve got some cash to spend, consider booking a private yacht tour of Bergen. The cruise takes you around the city, very similar to the tour above, but you get the whole boat to yourself. The trip includes a visit to Alvøen, a neighbourhood in Bergen (not exactly a village like the website says!).

    Learn more here: https://firstplayer.no/exclusive-private-cruise/

     

    Half-day Cruises

    Alverstraumen Fjord Cruise (3.5 hours)

    The Alverstraumen Fjord Cruise is a shorter version of the Mostraumen Fjord Cruise and takes you on the Salhusfjord and the Kvernafjord towards Alverstraumen. The strait is between 100 metres and 200 metres wide and one kilometre long and is characterised by strong tidal currents. Just note that in some ways the area you’re going to is just an outer suburb of Bergen, and the fjords you see here are not dramatic. Still, the scenery is beautiful.

    Learn more here: https://www.bergencruise.no/

    Mostraumen Fjord Cruise (4 hours)

    This cruise is arguably the most famous of all the cruises you can take out of Bergen. The cruise goes out onto the Osterfjord, which is located just north of Bergen city centre, and then down the Mostraumen channel.

    The cruise is beautiful. You do see waterfalls and picturesque small villages. However, if you are seeing any other fjords on your trip (such as the Nærøyfjord or the Geirangerfjord), the fjords you see on this cruise pale in comparison. This cruise is perfect for those who are in Western Norway for a short period of time and won’t see much of the surrounding nature.

    Book directly here: https://rodne.no/en/fjord-experiences/bergen/fjordcruise-mostraumen/

    Bergen Heritage Tour (5.5 hours)

    This trip combines a ride on a historic steamship, historic bus, and historic train. The cruise takes you out to the Osterfjord, where you disembark the ferry to take a bus to the train station. The trip is perfect for those who are interested in history and tradition. 

    The tour is only offered on Sunday’s in summer, and you can book tickets here: https://stord1.ticketco.events/no/en/e/soendag_30_juni_2024_som_aa_reise_i_gamle_dager__bergen_heritage_tour_rundtur_start_i_soergaaende_retning_med_veteraanbuss

    Full Day Trips

    Norway in a Nutshell (10 hours)

    Norway in a Nutshell is the most famous day-trip from Bergen and combines train, bus and boat travel. I have a whole other guide to Norway in a Nutshell. The trip includes a cruise on the scenic Nærøyfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage fjord known for being very narrow with steep mountains. The cruise is one of the highlights of the whole day trip. 

    Norway in a Nutshell

    You can find my separate guide for Norway in a Nutshell via the link below. 

    Norway in a Nutshell

    Bergen to Flåm Cruise Round-Trip (12.5 hours)

    If you want to avoid trains and buses and just be on the water, this is the ferry-only alternative to Norway in a Nutshell. The trip to Flåm from Bergen is about 5.5 hours one way. Of those 5.5 hours, the first two hours is spent cruising the coast, then you enter the Sognefjord (the world’s longest fjord). The last half an hour is spent cruising down the dramatic Aurlandsfjord, known for its steep mountains and beauty. This trip doesn’t include a visit to the Nærøyfjord. After two hours free time in Flåm, you take the same ferry back to Bergen.

    Honestly, I’ve done this trip one-way (Flåm-Bergen) before and found it to be quite dull.

    Bergen to Rosendal Fjord Cruise (approx. 7 hours)

    This lovely day trip from Bergen takes you to Rosendal. The cruise takes around two hours one way, and you get around three and a half hours in Rosendal. It gives you time to visit the Barony Rosendal, a historic building. It is regarded as Scandinavia’s smallest castle and the only one of its kind in the country.

    Rosendal is located on the Hardangerfjord but at the entrance to the fjord, so you don’t get to see much of the fjord itself. 

    You take a ferry back to Bergen the same way. 

    Learn more here: https://partner.rodne.no/en/to-do/2135799/day-trip-to-rosendal-in-hardanger/showdetails?sorting=st%3Da%3Bso%3Da

    Bergen to the Hardangerfjord (13 hours)

    This full-day trip takes you to the beautiful Hardangerfjord and combines bus and ferry transport to give you the best of Norwegian scenery. This one would be one of my top picks, just because I think the Hardangerfjord is lovely and not as over-crowded as some other fjords. The trip starts with a bus ride to Norheimsund, where you then board the ferry to travel down the Hardangerfjord from Eidfjord. Once in Eidfjord, a bus takes you to the Norwegian Nature Centre (a fantastic museum!) and then up to the dramatic Vøringsfossen (pictured above). The drive back to Bergen includes a stop at Steindalsfossen, a waterfall you can walk behind. It’s a long day, but this tour takes you deep into the fjord, where you get the more spectacular scenery.

    Learn more here: https://gofjords.com/experiences/fjord-cruise/bergen/hardangerfjord-cruise-and-voringsfossen-waterfall/?bw-date=2024-07-02&bw-adults=1

    Day Trip to the Sognefjord & Glaciers via Vik (13 hours)

    This trip is one I’d definitely recommend! The trip is fully guided and takes no more than 16 passengers. On the journey, you take a bus from Bergen to Vik, crossing the incredible Vikafjellet mountains. I love this drive! (It’s the Rv13 – see my guide here). Once in Vik, you are in a historic town rich in cultural heritage. The main attraction in Vik is the Hopperstad Stave Church, one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. The church was built in 1130 and (along with Urnes) is the oldest stave church in existence. You get to visit the church on this tour before boarding a ferry and taking a cruise across the Sognefjord. On the other side, you travel to Fjærland to get a chance to see the glacier and the Norwegian Glacier Museum. You had the same way back to Bergen afterwards.

    Of course this trip is more inland than on a cruise, but I think it’s a perfect mix of everything. Mountains, valleys, history, fjords and glaciers.

     

    Fjord Cruise & Hike Combination (7 hours)

    This full-day trip combines a fjord cruise with a mountain hike. The boat takes you along the Osterfjord to Modalen, Norway’s second-smallest municipality. You arrive in the village at around 11:30am and there you disembark and begin a short hike. The hike takes about one hour each one and has a vertical gain of 200 metres. You then take the boat back to Bergen.

    This sounds like a great way to spend the day if you have limited opportunities to go hiking in the nature surrounding Bergen.

    Final Thoughts on Fjord Cruises in Bergen

    As you can see, there are so many different options and it can seem overwhelming. But think about what you want – fjords, variety, etc – how much time you have, and your budget. This should help narrow things down quite well. 

    In my opinion, the full-day trips offer the best value for money. 

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Bergen is a fascinating city and well worth spending lots of time in. Be sure to check out my travel guide for Bergen by clicking the button above. 

  • Copenhagen, Walking Guides

    Christianshavn, Christian IV’s Merchant Town – Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Christianshavn - Christian IV's Merchant City - Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Christianshavn is the hipster cool district of Copenhagen. It makes it perfect for a self-guided walking tour!

    The neighbourhood – located just south of the city – was established in the 17th century by the infamous King Christian IV, who was heavily inspired by Dutch merchant towns such as Amsterdam. Christianshavn quickly became a rough sailors neighbourhood, and in the 1970s the hippies took over the Christiania commune and made it their town. 

    Today Christianshavn is becoming a high-end alternative neighbourhood in the heart of Copenhagen. It is still a great place to explore, thanks to its many preserved buildings. 

    In this article...

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    I offer downloadable versions of my self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Christianshavn Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins on the Christianshavn side of the Knippelsbro Bridge, which begins by Christiansborg Palace on its northern side. 

    Torvegade

    This is the main thoroughfare through Christianshavn, and some of the buildings here are very historic.

    Look at numbers 22, 24, 27 and 30. They are all from the 18th century and are listed buildings.

    Strandgade

    The street originally ran along the waterfront and is on the original plans of Christianshavn from 1617. The plots where not popular here, so the King had to give them away for free to wealthy citizens on the condition they build good commerce houses.

    The Danish East India Company and the Danish West India Company established their headquarters here.

    In 1738, Denmark’s first dry dock opened here.

    Strandgade 44

    This building is is Irgrens Gård. It was built on one of the original plots of land for Christianshavn and gets its name from Joachim Irgrens, who took over the property in 1664. Here there was the king’s copper works company, with the mining operations in Røros, Norway. The income was so great that at one point the company was able to lend the King money. The King did not pay Irgrens back, but instead gave him all of Northern Norway!

    Wildersgade

    This street is named after the merchant and shipyard owner, Carl Wilder, who in the 18th century ran a shipyard at Wilders Plads. This street was a slightly nicer street to be on than Strandgade, and many distinguished trading houses were here.

    Sankt Annæ Gade

    The street has been here since Christianshavn was founded and is named after Saint Anna, who was the mother of the Virgin Mary. There used to be a row of poor houses here, but they have since disappeared.

    Dronningensgade

    Dronningensgade has a number of interesting brick buildings.

    Number 67 was a girls school. The school was established in 1799 but moved to this building in 1912. The girls school was for girls aged between five and twelve, and the aim was to “educate the girls minds and make them good at handicrafts”. The school admitted students from both noble and bourgeois families, but that the principle that no distinction was made. French was taught, but not English, which the school believed was something the parents themselves had to ensure that the children learned. The school also admitted boys from 1976 onwards.

    The Church of Our Saviour

    The church of Christianshavn was supposed to be a couple blocks further west at Christianshavns Torv, but that never happened. This church was completed in 1696. The architect was Lambert van Haven, who designed the church in the Dutch Baroque style. It is built in the shape of a cross, which is not common in Denmark.

    Originally the church had no spire. Lambert died before the church was put into use, and the twisted spire was not part of his original plan. It was added to the church in 1750 and was designed by Laurids de Thurah. The spiral twist is probably inspired by the Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza church in Rome. It is said that Thurah threw himself from the tower because the spire twisted the wrong way in relation to the King’s wish, but that is just a myth.

    For a small fee, you can take the stairs all the way to the top of the spire!

    You can read more about visiting the Church of Our Saviour by clicking here. 

    Christiania

    If you were to turn left at Prinsessegade, you would reach the free-town Christiania. Christiania is a neighbourhood lived in by Copenhagen’s hippy and artists. Since its establishment by squatters in 1971, the area has drawn non-conformists from across the globe, attracted by the concept of collective business, workshops and communal living. Unfortunately Christiania is best-known for Pusher Street, where hash is openly traded despite it being very illegal in Denmark. There have been recent attempts to shut down Pusher Street in 2024, and it’s not the best place to visit in Christiania. Explore the neighbourhood, beautiful park areas, and see the wonderful DIY homes. There’s also great and cheap eateries here as well as regular concerts.

    Before its development, Christiania was an abandoned military camp. Some of the buildings in there are still standing 200-300 years later. Christiania also has some preserved ramparts. This walk is now going to go to some of the preserved ramparts out of the free town.

    Amager Port

    This was one of the four gates that brought you into Copenhagen. It is not known what the first gate looked like, but a gate was known from 1724 and it used to be closed at night. Next to the gate was a porter’s residence, which is the old building you can see.

    Across the street is the street Amager Gade, which was part of Christianshavn’s working class. In 1867, 1,000 people lived on the street – or 7% of the entire population. The street used to be much longer, but has since been cut up with Ved Volden. A large part of the streets houses are old and represent tenement barracks in a rich contrast to the merchant farms you saw earlier.

    Christianshavn's Ramparts

    The rampart you see here is the best-preserved part of Copenhagen’s fortifications from the 17th century.

    The facility was an integral part of the plan of the new district of Christianshavn. The ramparts were closed in 1909 and now it’s a park area.

    Sofiegade

    The street is named after Queen Sofie of Mecklenburg, who was Christian IV’s mother. There were many taverns on this street. Number 15 was Christianshavn Bathing Institution in 1909. It dates from a time when many residents did not have a bath in their apartment. There were separate entrances for men and women. Number 10 was a brandy distillery with cows on the first floor. The building is still a bathhouse today.

    Christiania's Torv

    This is the main square for Christianshavn. Originally the prison and Children’s house. The idea was to house people on the street and train them to be craftsmen to create a state production of cloth. Stray children were also taken in. It was described as a building for “deformed, disobedient and orphaned children”, but later also took thieves, beggars and women. It developed into something of a forced labour facility that produced clothing for the military.

    Conditions for the inmates were poor. The food served was considered unfit for human consumption.

    Children were no longer kept there from 1790 onwards, and it became more of a prison. In 1817, the prisoner’s rioted and burned down the building. It was rebuilt but demolished in 1928.

    The bridge you’ll cross back to Copenhagen is called Børnehusbroen – the Children’s House Bridge – and commemorates this building. Follow Torvegade back to Christiansborg, or from here you can take the metro.

    Christianshavn Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Enjoy your walk around Christianshavn! If you want a self-guided walk with more details, be sure to buy my downloadable Christianshavn self-guided walking tour. 

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide
  • Hikes, Odda

    The Reality of Hiking Troll Tongue

    The Reality of Hiking Troll Tongue

    Troll Tongue (Trolltunga in Norwegian) is one of the most famous hikes in Norway. The famous ‘tongue’ hanging over a cliff has become iconic on social media and travel blogs for Norway. Whenever I meet guests in Bergen, the young and fit ones tell me they are going to hike Troll Tongue. But what’s more common is I get guests telling me they are going here and my immediate thought is oh no, you won’t make it. I remember once having to tell them there’d be snow and they’d be risking their lives if they did it in February.

    Why are so many people ill-prepared? Well, it’s easy. They see the photo, they say “I can do that”, and off they go. It’s crazy. I hiked Troll Tongue back in 2016, and I didn’t enjoy it at all. And that was after doing a ton of research. But I vividly remember that as I was doing it, I was passing people in much worse shape than me, people in jeans, people in sneakers, and people without backpacks for food. 

    So, I’ve put together this guide to make it clear exactly what to expect when going to Troll Tongue. While I enjoy hiking, I am not an expert hiker and you should not take my word alone. I’ve tried to provide as many external links to Norwegian sources so you can read about the hike based on expert opinions. 

    The Reality of Hiking Troll Tongue

    The Rv13 Highway

    Odda is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv13 Highway
    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Setting Expectations

    Hiking grade level

    Because the trail is longer than 20km, the trail is automatically listed as an expert hike. However, it is definitely an expert-level hike! Although the trail is well-marked, you must be in very good shape and have excellent endurance. You must also have done mountain hikes before, preferably in Norway. 

    You must feel comfortable walking on uneven surfaces and up steep rock cliffs without things to hold onto. 

    The whole trail has been photographed on Google Maps, so you can get a sense of what the path looks like: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Fy8VgatULGyu4oNZ9 (go into street view after clicking that link)

    In Norway, our hiking website is called ut.no. They have a page for Troll Tongue, and while it’s in Norwegian, you can clearly make out information about the difficulty of the hike: https://ut.no/turforslag/115074/trolltunga-unik-hyfjellstur-ved-hardangerfjorden

    Go with a guide!

    If you are worried about your fitness level or ability to keep to the trail, book a guided tour. Here an expert Norwegian will guide you safely on the trail, assist you, and provide information along the way. 

    I cannot recommend this enough. 

    Read more about guided hiking here: https://trolltunga.com/plan-your-trip/guided-hiking/

    When can you do the hike?

    Hikers can go without a guide from June to September depending on the weather. Never take this at face level without checking the weather. Now in June we had snow a couple days ago. It is absolutely not safe to do Troll Tongue on snow or ice. 

    If you go from October – May without a guide, you are risking your life. The weather is unpredictable and snow or ice on the ground is risky when there are no barriers. Also, you risk getting stuck up there after dark. 

    How many nights do you need a hotel?

    Book your hotel for at least two nights. You can stay in Odda, Tyssedal or Ullensvang. Do not stay in Bergen and head to Troll Tongue for the day.

    Ideally, you should book somewhere for 4-5 nights and then pick the best-weather day of that period to hike Troll Tongue. Use the other days to do easier hikes, take fjord cruises, visit farms and museums, and see beautiful Western Norway. 

    When doing Troll Tongue, try to start no later than 7am. 

    What to bring

    You need to be wearing high quality, waterproof hiking boots. Bring with you very good clothing as you may be suddenly exposed to rain or cold weather without much warning. It is very important to bring lots of food and water. Do not wear jeans, trainers, or other everyday clothing.

    Also wear sunscreen! While we don’t have a high UV index, the sun is high above you for long periods of the day and can feel harsher than standing on a beach in Australia. 

    I remember I brought clean socks and was so so happy about it when I got to put them on. I wish we had brought a thermos with hot water and those meals that you hydrate. You can buy them in Norwegian outdoor shops. Look for this brand “Real Turmat” (click here). 

    Here’s a guide for what to wear and pack: https://trolltunga.com/plan-your-trip/equipment/

    Safety first

    If I haven’t yet convinced you to come fully prepared, here’s a video that was made by some Norwegians about what to expect on the mountains. 

    There is mobile phone coverage for most of the trail. However, do not rely on your phone for navigation. Have a printed map with you. 

    Click here for a basic map of Troll Tongue. 

    If you are reading online blogs about the hike, consider the source. I do understand the irony in this, but don’t read blogs from travel bloggers who came to Norway once, did the hike, and left. Read from official, Norwegian sources. Travel bloggers don’t have a realistic understanding of the hike and their fitness level may be different to yours. Even on this guide, I’m trying to provide as many external links as possible to Norwegian sources. Don’t trust my judgement alone – read everything and determine for yourself if you can handle the hike.

    Here is a great guide from VisitNorway about hiking safety: https://www.visitnorway.com/things-to-do/outdoor-activities/hiking/tips/

    Doing the hike

    Okay, you are sure you can do Troll Tongue. That’s great! Now let’s go through the practical bits. 

    Where to park and start the hike

    There are two parking lots – P2 and P3. The difference between the two is where they start. P2 starts at the foot of the mountain, while P3 starts 1km into the hike and skips the most challenging part of the hike – the steep, up-hill ascent. When I did the hike, there was no P3. In fact, they opened it one year after I did the hike, something I’m still a little bitter about.

    Anyway, if you are absolutely not an up-hill person then you want to go to P3. Trust me, you want to go to P3 unless you are a very skilled hiker. That first 1km of hiking involves pulling yourself up on ropes and climbing up rocks. If you start from P3, you conserve a lot of energy and save a lot of time.

    P3 does having parking spaces, but it is extremely limited and it’s highly likely you won’t get a park there. There is also a shuttle bus that takes you up there, which makes much more sense.

    Take the shuttle bus

    You can find shuttle bus information here: https://trolltunga.com/parking-and-transportation/shuttle-buses-and-taxi/

    How long does the hike take?

    If you start walking from P2, allow 8-12 hours for the 27km round-trip hike. If you start walking from P3, allow 7-10 hours for the 20km hike. Note that this depends heavily on your fitness level and the weather. We had pouring rain for half of the hike and it took considerably longer than planned.

    What to expect on the hike

    That first part (now skippable with the P3 carpark) was the most challenging part of the trip. Once you get part it, there is an excellent, well-marked trail. There is another steep climb about 45 minutes into the hike at what’s called the Gryteskaret Pass. This is one of the most strenuous stretches for the hike. You must be able to navigate yourself on uneven rocks.

    There will be another steep climb up to the Tromeskar pass, and from here you’ll be at a grassy valley very popular with campers. Shortly after passing that steep climb, you’ll make it to a view of the Ringedalsvatnet lake below in the valley.

    As you get closer to Troll Tongue, the trail will narrow, and you should be mindful of the high drop.  

    Overall, the trail is solid and well-marked because it is such a popular tourist attraction. Signs along the trail show the remaining distance to both Troll Tongue and back to the beginning of the trail.

    On the trail, it is possible to drink the natural water. However, do not drink water close to cabin areas or until you have reached the first emergency shelter just before Floren, about halfway to Troll Tongue. It’s better to fill water from a running stream than from a lake but be advised that water may contain impurities after heavy rainfall.

    There are no public toilets on the trail. Use the toilets at the parking lots before going up. Keep your toilet stops on the mountain far away from streams and lakes and downhill from trails.

    You must bring all your trash down from the mountains.

    Snow & rain

    It’s very common to see snow up here. In fact, it’s not recommended to hike the trail in May due to the risk of snow and ice. There are no barriers, so one slip in the wrong direction and it’s all over.

    Even in late June you may encounter patches of snow and cross streams, so waterproof boots are important and be sure to pack some extra socks.

    If you see rain forecast, do not go. There are no safety barriers and rocks become slippery when wet. If it means you miss hiking the trail altogether, so be it.

    Emergency shelters

    Two emergency shelters are located along the trail in case of a sudden storm or other emergency. The emergency shelters have sleeping bags, blankets and food rations.

    Save this in your phone: The emergency number

    The emergency number is 112.

    Arriving at Troll Tongue

    There is often a queue to go and stand out at Troll Tongue. It is likely that you will have to wait up to 90 minutes just to get out there and get the famous photo. When you get out there, stay a couple feet back from the edge of the cliff. People have fallen from here in the past.

    Wrapping up: Hiking Troll Tongue

    I live in Bergen, and we hear all the time in the news in summer about tourists getting stuck on the mountains and having to be rescued. It’s become a huge argument in the country if we should do more to prevent tourists from taking these hikes since they are so unprepared. If you want to do this hike, do your research. Read from official, Norwegian websites and study the trail on Google Maps. Get a printed copy of the map and buy good quality hiking gear. Seriously consider booking a guide to go with you. Make the right decisions. Don’t skip essential parts because you are short on cash or time. At the end of the day, is risking your life worth it for a photo? No, not really!

    Also, don’t do this hike just for the shot for Instagram. There are so many wonderful hikes around Norway, and many with arguably better views, so you don’t have to do this one just because it’s famous. Why waste your day queuing for 90 minutes for the photo when you can choose a less challenging hike with better views and no crowds?

    When I did the hike in 2016, I researched the trail extensively, went with a group, and even had my husband’s cousin come with us (he is an experienced hiker in Norway) who brought food, shelter, and helped us on the trail. However, we made many mistakes. We went on a day when rain was forecast and had a very challenging time getting back down the mountain after visiting Troll Tongue. In hindsight, it was completely unsafe. Now, eight years later and wiser and with lots of experience hiking around Western Norway, I would go back and do it again and probably do a lot better.

    All in all, there’s no shame in saying “this isn’t for me”. But if you do decide to go, make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into. 

    The Rv13 Highway

    Odda is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv13 Highway
    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Troll Tongue is located close to Odda, and you should be staying in Odda for at least two nights during your hike. Read my travel guide for Odda above.