Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Notodden, Stave Churches, Telemark

    Heddal Stave Church

    Heddal Stave Church

    Heddal is one of the most famous stave churches in Norway. After all, it’s the largest! Yepp, Heddal Stave Church is the largest of the 28 remaining in Norway. Moreover, it is one of the most important churches when it came to restoring the other ones in Norway. Heddal was the first church to be described in detail. It is in a written publication called Samlinger til det Norske Folks Sprog og Historie in 1834. The book used Johannes Flintoe’s drawings of the church. It is likely the first architectural drawing of a stave church. Unlike many other stave churches, Heddal has not been affected by fires or natural disasters.

    Heddal Stave Church is open to the public during the summer months. Unfortunately, I was unable to get inside during my visit. Still, there’s something special about seeing the church from the outside. Here’s my overview of the church plus what you can see from the outside.

    In this article...

    The E134 Highway

    You can reach Heddal Stave Church by taking the E134. You can find my guide to the E134 by clicking the link below. 

    The E134 Highway
    Notodden Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Heddal Stave Church

    Heddal Stave Church is from some time around the beginning of the 13th century. It’s not known exactly when the church was built. Remains of older building material indicates there was at least one other church on the site. The choir of the current building may have been a nave in an older building.

    Heddal was a settlement with a timber industry, good agricultural land, and a growing community. Today it’s not really a settlement; the main town is now Notodden. Notodden is UNESCO World Heritage-listed along with Rjukan for its 20th century industry. Heddal consists of several farms today. Christianity came to prominence in Telemark in the 11th century. It likely came from Christian monks from the British Isles. They christianised the coast first before moving inland. Since Heddal Stave Church is close to a river, it’s likely that’s how they came to the region. Additionally, crosses and churches went up close to waterways to warn (and promote) Christianity to the community.

    Changes over the years

    Heddal Stave Church is first mentioned in written sources in 1315. After the Reformation in 1536, the church deteriorated. This is when we started losing many of the 1000 stave churches in Norway. The first major renovation took place between 1849 and 1851. The restorers lacked the knowledge another restoration had to be done in the 1950s. This renovation revealed rich wall decorations. Figures and ornaments on the walls were revealed. There had previously been overpainting on the walls.

    Today the interior reflects the period around the Reformation, when Catholicism was out and Lutheran was in.

    Tourists have been coming to the church for the last 200 years. In recent years, the number of visitors has been 15,000-20,000 per year. For the last 35 years, tours have been available inside the church.

    The church in the 1880s (Source)

    Legend of church construction

    Here’s a legend about how the church was built.

    One day, Raud Rygi met a stranger who was willing to build the church. However, the stranger had three conditions for doing the job. One of these conditions had to be done before the church construction finished. Raud had to either fetch the sun and moon from the sky, forfeit his lifeblood, or guess the name of the stranger. Raud thought the last wouldn’t be too hard, so he agreed.

    The building materials had arrived during the first night. The spire was built during the second. It became clear to Raud he wasn’t going to make it: the church was to be finished on day three.

    Fearing for his life, Raud took a walk in the fields to figure out the strangers name. Still wandering around, he arrived at Svintruberget (a rocky hill southeast of the church site). He suddenly heard a stange but beautiful song:

    Tomorrow Finn will bring us the Moon.Where he goes, the sun and christian blood perish.He brings children to song and play.But now my children, sleep safe and sound.

    Raud now knew the stranger was a troll (Trolls drink Christian blood – dead giveaway). The stranger visited Raud the next day to show the completed church. They walked to the church and Raud walked to one of the pillars. He hugged it, as if to straighten it out. Then he said: “Hey Finn, this pillar isn’t straight!” The stranger snapped back “I could be even more bent!” and hastily leaves the church.

    Raud solved the riddle. The stranger’s name was Finn, or Finn Fairhair. He was a troll and could not stand the church bells. Since the church was finished, he heard the, so much he had to move far away.

    Architectural Layout

    Heddal Stave Church is a triple nave stave church and Norway’s largest. It has a length of 20m and a height of 26m.

    Heddal Stave Church has three towers. It has roof surfaces at many angles, and a walkway around the church. Legend has it that the undercover exterior area is where the Vikings kept their shields and swords to protect them from the rain. Is it true? Who knows! But I’ve heard it a few times at stave churches.

    Looking closely at the building, you’ll see it has several different architectural styles. These depict the different eras the church has lived through.

    Restoration Work

    The wood carvings show a remarkable combination of biblical motifs and pre-Christian beliefs. The exterior gallery has woodcarvings around the four entrances. The symbols scare off evil powers while also inviting people into the sanctuary of the church.

    Visiting the church & surrounding area

    There is quite a large carpark close to the church, and it is a short walk to the church. Behind it is the Heddal Open Air Museum, which contains farm buildings from the area. In front of the carpark is a large barn, and this is an indoor museum. It has objects from around the area and is where you buy tickets. There’s also a cafe and shop inside.

    You can walk around the church for free, but it’s hard to get too close to it. You can see in the photos that the exterior gallery is closed in. They have put up wire fencing in the open spaces and closed off the doors.

    A sign is in front of the carpark providing a good overview of the church. The church is absolutely beautiful to look at. There are many stave churches where I think seeing the outside is good enough. But with Heddal, you should go inside. It’s a rare stave church with a preserved interior.

    Practical Information

    Getting Here

    Getting there by car: Heddal Stave Church is about 1.5 hours from Oslo. It’s very close to the UNESCO World Heritage towns of Rjukan and Notodden (click here to read about that).

    Getting there by bus: Amazingly, you can take a singular bus from Oslo Bus Terminal. Take the regional bus to Haugesund and get off at ‘Rygi’. It’s not a major stop, so you need to make it clear to the driver. Heddal Stave Church is 350m from there. Just keep in mind there are only three buses a day. Click here to look for more info.

    Parking: Free

    Admission

    2020 ticket prices are 80 NOK per person. Click here for current prices.

    Opening hours

    The church is open throughout the year. Click here for opening times.

    Guided tours

    Offered and highly recommended. They don’t put information signs next to motifs or highlight key points. You need a guide. The tours typically happen whenever you show up, or when there’s enough people.

    The E134 Highway

    You can reach Heddal Stave Church by taking the E134. You can find my guide to the E134 by clicking the link below. 

    The E134 Highway
    Notodden Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • History, Notodden, Rjukan, Telemark, World War II

    Industrial Heritage in Rjukan, Telemark

    Industrial Heritage in Rjukan, Telemark

    In this article...

    The Fv37 Highway

    Rjukan is located along the fv37, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv37 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv37 Highway
    Rjukan Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Pre industrial era

    Before industry came to Rjukan, it wasn’t a town and there were very few people living here. However, Rjukan was a known tourist destination. The area has good terrain for skiing and hiking, and it’s a good starting point for the Hardangervidda Plateau. Moreover, in the 1860s, the Norwegian Mountain Touring Association built their first cabin here, by the waterfall. Additionally, Rjukan is close to Gaustatoppen, one of the highest mountains in the country. It also experienced tourism growth in the 19th century.

    Industrial Growth

    In the early 20th century, Norway experienced rapid industrial development. They worked out how to utilise the cheap hydropower properly. Industrial development began in the East Telemark region. Before then, it was an underdeveloped and sparsely populated agricultural area. The factories built here were to make fertiliser, which could be used to blast the mines.

    Kristian Birkeland (1867-1917)
    Sam Eyde (1866-1940)

    The background for industrial development in Rjukan and the neighbouring town Notodden is thanks to these two guys. The process was used to fix atmospheric nitrogen into nitric acid, one of the several chemical processes generally referred to as nitrogen fixation. The resultant was then used as a source of nitrate. It’s a little above me, so you can read about it here.

    They needed electricity to make this work, so established the hydropower company Norsk Hydro in 1905. They set up an experimental factory in Notodden in 1905. The first nitrate factory in Rjukan was Vemork (Rjukan I), which began operations in 1911. At the time, Vemork was the largest power plant with direct current production.

    Rjukan II Power Plant

    Other industrial plants

    Other plants went up around Rjukan, and they are still visible today. Here’s just two of them:

    • Såheim Power Plant: It is from 1914. Hydro Energi owns the building. An old piece from the power plant is in a park in Rjukan.
    • Mår Power Plant: It’s located just south of Rjukan. It was put into operation in 1948 and collects water from an intake reservoir.

    Moreover, they saw the potential of Rjukan, and decided to take over its natural attractions for the exploitation of hydropower. The Rjukan Falls, which had previously been a tourist attraction, were now exploited for hydropower. Furthermore, the high mountain lake Møsvatn and the watercourse was taken over for industry. Their use as a tourist attraction diminished.

    Building Rjukan

    With these plants coming up in Rjukan, they needed to make a town. Rjukan was built between 1905 and 1916.

    The man with the plan for Rjukan was Sam Eyde. He designed Rjukan from the ground up. This included the street layout, facilities, and architecture. Houses were designed from the ground up for the workers. Even the mailboxes and park benches were specifically designed. In 1925, 80% of the houses were controlled by Norsk Hydro.

    In 1910, the population was 2,200. Moreover, ten years later, it was 8,350. At its peak, 12,000 people lived in Rjukan.

    The sun doesn’t reach Rjukan between September and March. Eyde couldn’t have his workers depressed, so he had the Krossobanen built. Moreover, it takes passengers up to a nearby mountain, where the sun still reaches all year long. Certainly, the Krossobanen opened in 1928 as a gift from Norsk Hydro.

    Transportation of goods

    With people and industry comes a need for transport. Moreover, a very detailed system was designed to transport goods from Rjukan down to the pier at Skien. The Rjukanbanen railway took goods from the plants to the Mael pier. From there, the railway ferry went across the Tinnsjøen Lake to Tinnoset. There the train went 34km to the Notodden pier. Goods were then loaded on barges and taken on the Telemark canal system to Skien. King Haakon VII opened the Rjukanbanen on 10 August 1909. It is no longer in operation, but the pier at Mael has been preserved.

    Development of heavy water & WWII

    Rjukan is most known today for its connection to the development of heavy water at its Vemork plant. I won’t go into too much detail about what happened here during the war; that’s for a separate article once I visit the Industrial Workers Museum.

    As we know, between 1907 and 1911 Norsk Hydro built the plant at Vemork. In 1934, they built an adjacent hydrogen plant. Certainly, a by-product of hydrogen projection via water electrolysis is heavy water.

    The Nobel Prize winner Odd Hassel told Norsk Hydro they were producing heavy water; they didn’t know before then!

    What is Heavy Water?

    Heavy water is a form of water that contains only deuterium (heavy hydrogen), rather than common hydrogen. Moreover, the presence of the heavier hydrogen isotope gives the water different nuclear properties. Water has two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom. Heavy water has deuterium instead of hydrogen. Furthermore, regular hydrogen has one proton in its nucleus, while heavy water has one proton and one neutron. The increase of mass gives it physical and chemical properties when compared to normal water. It looks like water, but is 10% heavier.

    One purpose of heavy water is using it in nuclear reactors. Heavy water slows the neutrons so they can react with uranium in the reactor. One use of heavy water is developing nuclear weapons.

    Vemork hidden in the trees

    World War II

    This is where we get into World War II. During the war, the Germans took over Norsk Hydro. German scientists discovered that uranium is useful for energy and weapons. Also, heavy water acts as a moderator in a reactor and contributes to the refining of uranium, suitable for atomic bombs. If you aren’t a science person, all that matters is that the Germans were developing heavy water at Vemork in Norway for their atomic bomb.

    Norwegian resistance members discovered this, and immediately set about sabotaging their operations. They launched several attacks on the facility. The most famous is the sabotage operation in winter 1943. While they were able to damage the facility, production soon continued. However, the Norwegians were able to destroy the boats leaving Rjukan via Mael and thus halt the Germans plans to export the heavy water back to Germany. The ship that carried the heavy water is under the lake near Mael.

    The heavy water facility was blown up in 1977. In 2017, the secret cellar used by the Germans was discovered. It is currently being preserved so visitors can see the remains.

    Outside the museum Vemork

    Today Vemork power station is the Norwegian Industrial Workers’ Museum. The history of Rjukan and the industrial worker is told, in addition to the history of war and sabotage associated with the place.

    Post-war industrial shift

    Production continued after the Second World War. In 1955, Norsk Hydro was a powerhouse (in all senses of the word!) with 18% of the global export market for fertiliser products.

    After 1960, most of the production in Rjukan was moved out of town to more modern factories in Porsgrunn. Moreover, Rjukan lost its status as major industrial town. However some industry is still present here, but on a much smaller scale.

    Ammonia production ended in Notodden in 1968 and in Rjukan in 1989. Furthermore, they replaced Vemork with a new facility behind the mountains in 1971. Today the power plants serve as heritage sites and museums.

    UNESCO World Heritage Site

    After the turn of the century, Rjukan began to refocus its prime source of income. It found that tourism could be a huge industry here. After all, it was in the 19th century. With that the town decided to push for UNESCO World Heritage status for its industrial plants.

    The application was for Rjukan and Notodden. Above all, they represent the second industrial revolution consisting of industry, hydropower, transport and factory cities. The cities went on the UNESCO list on 5 July 2015. This is exactly 108 years and 1 day after Sam Eyde’s plans began for Rjukan.

    Here’s the reason UNESCO added it:

    Located in a dramatic landscape of mountains, waterfalls and river valleys, the site comprises hydroelectric power plants, transmission lines, factories, transport systems and towns. The complex was established by the Norsk-Hydro Company to manufacture artificial fertiliser from nitrogen in the air. It was built to meet the Western world’s growing demand for agricultural production in the early 20th century. The company towns of Rjukan and Notodden show workers’ accommodation and social institutions linked by rail and ferry to ports where the fertilizer was loaded. The Rjukan-Notodden site manifests an exceptional combination of industrial assets and themes associated to the natural landscape. It stands out as an example of a new global industry in the early 20th century.

    UNESCO World Heritage

    Hiking trails around the Vemork plant

    Rjukan Today

    Today 3,100 people live in Rjukan. It is primarily a tourist destination. The surrounding mountains are great for skiers. Moreover, access to Hardangervidda national park is perfect for adventure seekers and hikers. Furthermore, there are numerous museums and visitor centres about the towns heritage.

    It’s not all industry in Rjukan. The town is famous for its sun mirrors. Between September and March, Rjukan sits in the shadows. The mountain (thanks, Gaustatoppen) blocks the sun. In 2013, at the cost of 5 million NOK, large mirrors were put on the mountain. They reflect sun onto the town square. Every 12 March is Solfesten, a festival to celebrate the return of the sun.

    Visiting Rjukan

    By Car: Rjukan is a 2.5 hour drive from Oslo. You can take a short detour via the famous Heddal Stave Church. Rjukan is 1.5 hours from Dalen, 2 hours from Skien, and 5.5 hours from Bergen.

    Public Transport: There are no direct public transport routes to Rjukan; you have to take multiple buses. This includes from all nearby cities.

    How Long to Stay: I would recommend spending at least one night in Rjukan. This will give you time to do Gaustabanen and the Vemork Museum, though they can both be easily spread over 2 days. If you are interested in World War II or hiking, you can do the same trail the resistance workers took when they had their famous sabotage operation. It is a middle-grade hike and will take you past some heritage sites. Click here to learn more. Another hike will take you along the pipes for the Vemork station (click here).

    Note: Vemork Museum is not an easy walk from Rjukan town centre. Having a car is highly recommended.

    The Fv37 Highway

    Rjukan is located along the fv37, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv37 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv37 Highway
    Rjukan Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Rjukan, Telemark

    Riding Gaustabanen, a NATO Underground Funicular

    Riding Gaustabanen, a NATO Underground Funicular

    There are many funiculars and cable-car variants across Northern Europe, but I’d say there are none as unique as Gaustabanen. After all, how often do you get to ride in a military funicular underneath one of Norway’s highest mountains, only to emerge on the other side and see 1/6 of the country? Yeah, exactly. That’s what Gaustabanen is!

    In September 2020 I got the chance to ride the cable car. While the weather was good at the lower station, a singular cloud hovered over the top station and we didn’t get to see anything. As much as that is a shame, it’s a reality when trying to experience the outdoors in Norway. The weather is not always perfect.

    Still, I thought I’d write about the funicular itself. I did get to experience that. If you’re planning to take Gaustabanen, I hope this guide helps with your planning.

    In this article...

    The Fv37 Highway

    The Gaustabanen is located along the Fv37, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv37 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv37 Highway
    Rjukan Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    This article will cover the history and the practicalities of the funicular. I won’t talk so much about the view, what you can do at the top, or the hiking path. I only cover what I’ve done.

    The history is important because part of the thrill of the funicular has to do with its NATO history.

    History of Gaustabanen

    Early days of mountain exploration

    Long before there was a funicular there, the mountain Gaustatoppen has been drawing visitors from all over the world. For Norwegians, it has been a popular hiking destination for over 200 years. The cabin at the top (Gausta Turisthytte) was built in 1893 to welcome brave hikers and skiers who made it to the top.

    A mountain this high and this snowy is sure to draw skiers, and Gaustatoppen is no exception. Alpine sports began on the mountain in the 1930s, and in 1934 the first race took place. One year later, the first downhill run was finished; it was a 5km (3 mi) long course with a drop of 900m. More on that later.

    There were further plans to develop the area as a ski resort, but World War II put a stop to that.

    Click here to explore World War II articles

    Post-war tourism plans

    After the war, Gaustatoppen continued to thrive as a ski destination. This talk began surrounding making some kind of rail to make it easier to get to the top of the mountain. The local press in Rjukan began to write about it. They were saying it would also be important for television, air traffic, weather forecast, and tourists.

    In autumn 1953, the regional airline Widerøe conducted a survey of the mountain. The Armed Forces stated their interests in the rail, and it was decided to split the costs between the Army and the tourism group. In 1954, the Army hired Norsk Hydro (an electric company) as the contractor. In February, work began to build the funicular.

    NATO takes over

    Shortly after construction began, NATO became interested in the project. Eventually they took over the project, and any hopes of having the funicular for tourism diminished. Still, it wasn’t too bad for the locals. It’s believed that a large portion of the population in Rjukan either worked or knew someone who worked at the facility. NATO secured all the funding they needed for the funicular, and it is likely that the project wouldn’t have been finished if not for them.

    Construction hiccups

    The construction was hindered by permafrost. When working, the construction workers had to deal with several thousand years old ice. The tunnel they were constructing acted as a huge chimney for hot air, and this caused the ice to melt. There was a risk of landslide. They were able to keep working by making reinforcement work from the top to the bottom of the mountain. Furthermore, safety walls went up with the help of the US Army helicopters. The project was funded with American military grants, and it cost around $1 million USD.

    The Gaustabanen opened in 1959 as a NATO facility. There were plans to recoup some of the costs with tourism, but as the Cold War intensified it remained a military secret instead. It lasted as that until the collapse of the Soviet Union and eastern Bloc in the 1990s.

    What went on?

    The iconic peak played an important part in telecommunications in Norway. Due to its location in the far north and common border with the Soviet Union, Norway’s important role in the NATO defence was to be a warning and intelligence base. Gaustabanen and the facility required a secure connection.

    Little information is available as to what went on in the facility. The Soviets were also curious about what was going on, and cars with Soviet embassy signs and long antennas were observed in the area.

    Moreover, the few civilians who took the rail in the 1960s, 70s and 80s had to be cleared in advance.

    Conversion to tourism

    Use of the facility ended in the 1990s, and after that there was interest in converting it into a tourism facility. After a heavy renovation, Gaustabanen opened to tourists in 2010, only 60 years after the original tourism plans!
    Gaustatoppen is still important for communication. It also functions as a broadcasting and weather station.

    Gaustabanen and the mountain are hugely popular for hikers and skiers, as well as general tourists. Around 100,000 people visit the tourist cabin every year.

    Ski competitions take place on the mountain. One is the Norseman Triathlon, billed as the ‘world’s most brutal iron-distance triathlon’. It starts in Eidfjord and finished at the top of Gaustatoppen.

    The Gausta Ski Centre has 45km of slopes and 550m in height difference.

    How it works

    The horizontal funicular

    The entrance to Gaustabanen is 1125m above sea level, and the exit is 675m further up.

    The first stage of your journey is a horizontal tram that takes you 850m straight into the mountain.

    The second stage involves changing to the funicular part; you have to leave the tram and walk to the funicular. The vertical funicular takes you on a 1040m path with a rise of a staggering 39 degrees.

    The only part of the NATO facility you see

    When you get out of the carriage at the top, you have to walk through a 110m long tunnel to get out. That is the only part of the NATO facility you’ll see. The other rooms are still hidden from the public.

    Perhaps the tunnel system looks familiar? Well, maybe if you’re into hydropower. The layout of the tunnels is directly inspired from hydroelectric power generation water-duct tunnels.

    This is where the view would be

    If the weather is amazingly clear, you’ll get to see the best view in the whole of Norway as you’re 1,882.9m high. You can see 60,000km2, which is around 1/6 of Norway’s mainland. By comparison, the whole of Denmark is 43,000m2.

    The path up to the tourist cabin and summit

    From the top station, it’s possible to walk to the tourist cabin. Walk a little further and you reach the actual summit. Please note that the ground is made up of loose rocks, and there’s a high chance they’ll be slippery.

    Should you get perfect weather, you can see the entire Hardangervidda Plateau to the north-west and the sea to the south.

    Again, I was unlucky and didn’t get to see anything from the top. There was this one cloud just hanging out on the top station. However, I could see the radio tower from the carpark. You can also see this pesky cloud in the photo.

    The top station is home to one of the highest toilets in Norway. Yes, you read that right! However, they cost money to use.

    What you see from the top

    If the weather is amazingly clear, you’ll get to see the best view in the whole of Norway as you’re 1,882.9m high. You can see 60,000km2, which is around 1/6 of Norway’s mainland. By comparison, the whole of Denmark is 43,000m2.

    The path up to the tourist cabin and summit

    From the top station, it’s possible to walk to the tourist cabin. Walk a little further and you reach the actual summit. Please note that the ground is made up of loose rocks, and there’s a high chance they’ll be slippery.

    Should you get perfect weather, you can see the entire Hardangervidda Plateau to the north-west and the sea to the south.

    Again, I was unlucky and didn’t get to see anything from the top. There was this one cloud just hanging out on the top station. However, I could see the radio tower from the carpark. You can also see this pesky cloud in the photo.

    The top station is home to one of the highest toilets in Norway. Yes, you read that right! However, they cost money to use.

    Is it worth it?

    Honestly, I don’t know. The ticket price is steep at 370 NOK for an adult return. When we paid the ticket, the sky was clear. By the time we reached the top, there was a cloud.

    Additionally, you need to allocate a lot of time for the trip. The tram leaves every 15 minutes, and the total journey takes 15-25 mins to reach the top. Then you have to go through that whole process again. We’d allocated 1.5 hours to the whole trip, and barely spent any time at the top because of that.

    Still, I think if you allocate enough time to do a walk or hike at the top, get a bite to eat at the tourist cabin, and enjoy the trip, it’s well worth it. The funicular is an incredibly unique experience and we really enjoyed that. If you get good weather, I’d say it’s worth it.

    Practical Information

    Getting there

    Gaustabanen is located on the County Road 651 about 10 minutes up-hill from Rjukan in Telemark. It’s marked as ‘Gaustabanen’ on Google Maps.

    Food & Drink

    The lower station has a coffee machine and some light snacks. There are places to sit outside. The upper station doesn’t have anything; you have to walk uphill to the tourist cabin to find food.

    Toilets

    Free toilets at the bottom visitors centre. The toilets cost money on the top station.

    Admission

    As of writing, an adult return ticket costs 390 NOK. Click here for up-to-date prices.

    Temperature

    The annual average temperature is -4.3C below zero. It will be very cold and likely windy at the top. Dress for winter weather!

    Departures

    The funicular departs every 15 mins and can only take 18 people per trip. Be sure to get there early to avoid crowds, especially in summer. The lower visitors centre is not large and you can’t sit inside, so you’ll be queuing outside.

    Souvenirs

    Available at the lower station.

    Hikes

    It is possible to hike from the carpark to the top station. It is regarded as a difficult hike by Norwegian standards. The hike is only 4.6km (a little under 3 miles), but it’s on a very rocky path. Click here for info on the hike (in Norwegian).

    The Fv37 Highway

    The Gaustabanen is located along the Fv37, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv37 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv37 Highway
    Rjukan Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Dalen, Southern Norway, Stave Churches, Telemark

    Eidsborg Stave Church & West Telemark Museum

    Eidsborg Stave Church & West Telemark Museum

    Eidsborg Stave Church is one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. Built some time between 1250 and 1300, the church stands out for being one of the smallest stave churches. Additionally, it is an important pilgrimage church that gave way to its own cult in the old times! Eidsborg Stave Church is located on the hill above the village of Dalen, and today is part of the Vest Telemark Museum. A visit to the church also includes a look at the historic farm buildings from the region. Here’s my overview of the history and importance of Eidsborg Stave Church.

    In this article...

    The Fv38 Highway

    Eidsborg Stave Church is located along the Fv38, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv38 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv38 Highway
    Dalen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Historic Overview

    Eidsborg Stave Church in 1929

    The timber on Eidsborg Stave Church dates the church some time between 1250 and 1300, though the exact date is unknown. The first written mention of the church is from 1354, but it’s definitely older than that. There’s indication that another church stood on the site before then.

    There are many legends associated with this church. The church is said to have been built by the underjordiske. They are spirit beings who live underground or in nature as invisible creatures next to humans, often near farms.

    Like all the 28 stave churches in Norway, Eidsborg has underwent some changes over the years. The chorus was demolished in 1826 and the choir is from 1845-1850. Unlike some other stave churches, Eidsborg lacks foundation stones. Only the nave is original. Also, unlike other stave churches, Eidsborg is built with vertical logs instead of horizontal ones.
    The next renovation was in 1927, when architects made efforts to make the church look more like its 17th century appearance. The last restoration took place between 2005-2008.

    Eidsborg is one of the smallest stave churches in the country. The inside area is approximately 30m2.

    St. Nicholas

    Eidsborg Stave Church is dedicated to St. Nicholas. There is a statue of him inside the church that is from when the church was built. Sadly today the one inside the church is a copy, while the original is now in the Folke Museum (open-air museum) in Oslo.

    This statue developed something of a cult in the old times. We know St. Nicholas as the generous saint and origin of Santa Clause. Well, the original Nicholas was the bishop of Myra and served in the 300s. In the 5th century, the worship of saints began with him. Eventually, more than 2,000 churches in Europe were dedicated to him. One of them was Eidsborg. Eidsborg was likely dedicated to St. Nicholas as he was also the stonemasons patron saint. The village Eidgsborg had sharpening stone (whetstone) production.

    The wooden figure became a cult icon. Every Midsummer Eve (St. Hans Eve), locals gave the wooden figure gifts. After this, the locals would say prays to the church. They then carried out to a water source, where they washed it. Sweat from the wooden sculpture was supposed to have healing power and cleanse sins. This was very unique that a Catholic symbol would have pagan ritual traditions. It is also found at Røldal Stave Church. This tradition took place until 1750.

    The Antiquities Collection took the statue in 1845, and in 1965 Eidsborg got a copy. The ritual is now a historical play that takes place once a year.

    Pilgrims Road

    Eidsborg Stave Church is one of the very few churches in Norway on a pilgrims road. The other other pilgrims stave church is Røldal. Eidsborg is actually located on the pilgrims road to Røldal.

    Vest Telemark Museum

    Eidsborg Stave Church is located as part of the Vest Telemark Museum. If you visit Eidsborg, you must take some time to see the other buildings on the farm. I was able to see this buildings for free while the museum was closed. You can’t, of course, go inside without paying the admission fee. Still, it’s a nice area to walk around in. Here’s what you can see.

    Stålekleivsloftet

    This is the oldest non-church wooden building in the Norway and one of the oldest in the world. It’s unsure exactly when this building came to be, but there have bmanyrous studies into this. The construction technique is finndalslaft, and this is not found in Norway after the Black Death in 1349. Furthermore, there is a rune inscription in the attic dated to 1300. Lastly, in recent years the timber has been studied. It is likely that the timber was felled around the year 1167.

    This building is the first of its kind in Eidsborg. It was for a woman called Åse Stålekleiv, who is something of a local legend here. Basically, in 1200 she was an extremely wealthy landowner in Eidsborg. She needed a building to store her linen, so her sons built her this one!

    You can read all about her on the West Telemark Museum website.

    Practical Information

    Getting there

    Eidsborg is a short but steep and windy drive from Dalen, famous for the Telemark Canal. It’s clearly marked on maps, street signs, and Google Maps.

    Opening hours

    You can see some the buildings and the stave church all year round, but the museum has specific opening hours. Check the current opening times here.

    Admission

    You can see the outside of the church and some of the buildings for free, but to go inside you need to pay an admission. Check the current prices here.

    The Fv38 Highway

    Eidsborg Stave Church is located along the Fv38, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv38 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv38 Highway
    Dalen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Jæren

    Exploring Egersund in Southern Norway

    Exploring Egersund in Southern Norway

    Earlier this month I got the chance to visit Egersund, a small town in the south of Norway. The town is located at the other end of the Jaeren Scenic Road if you drive south from Stavanger. I fell in love with Egersund. It has everything I look for when exploring Norway: history, picturesque views, good local food and speciality local shops. The husband and I had such a good time eating, shopping and photographing our way through Egersund.

    I’ve put together an overview of Egersund’s highlights. If you are in Stavanger, I highly recommend making the trip to Egersund. You can spend a couple hours or a couple days there, and it’s well worth it.

    In this article...

    The Fv44 Highway

    Egersund is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Egersund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    A little about Egersund

    What does Egersund mean?

    Egersund’s name is generally considered to be one of the oldest names in Norway. It comes from an Old Norse word meaning ‘the strait between the oak trees’ (eger/eik = oak tree and sund = strait – you’ll see ‘sund’ in many place names). The Saga of Olav the Holy, written by Snorre Sturlasson in the 13th century, mentions Egersund as Eikunarsund. Olav the Holy, or St. Olav, visited Egersund many times – I’ll get into this below.

    Historic Overview

    Early History

    Not only is the word ‘Egersund’ one of the oldest names in Norway, but Egersund is one of the country’s oldest harbours. People have lived here since the Stone Age. There are several places where you can see the ruins of settlements back to the migration period (600-400BC).

    Egersund was a port during the Viking Age. The centre of the town is the bay, Vågen (‘the bay’ in Norwegian). In the oldest mentions of Egersund, the name Kaupanes is used in reference to a trading place. This indicates that there were Vikings here. The town is mentioned several times in the Saga of Olav the Holy, as his fleet would regularly anchor in Egersund harbour between battles and looting around Europe. You can find mentions of the town in Snorre Sturlason’s Kings Sagas.

    Town Growth

    However, the town as we know it today didn’t arise in its present location until the 17th century. Around this time, people began to settle along the bay. From the mid-18th century, urban settlement took place. Around 600 people lived here in 1745. In 1746, Egersund became a ‘ladested’. This word means citizens had privilages to buy, load and export particularly, but not only, timber. In 1798, Egersund received customs privileges. Egersund has been a municipality since 1837, though it no longer governs itself.

    Like any town in Norway famous for its wooden architecture, Many fires have occurred in Egersund. The largest fire was in 1843, when two thirds of the town were destroyed. After this, the city adopted a Renaissance-style grid plan. This can be found in other Norwegian cities like Kristiansund and Kvadraturen in Oslo, or many European towns. There were other major fires in 1859 and 162, and after this the city made wider streets to stop fire spreading.

    Egersund received a train connection to Stavanger in 1878 with the Jaerensbanen railway. Furthermore, in 1905 Egersund became the first town in Rogaland county to get electric lighting.

    During World War II, Egersund was occupied by German forces. Due to its harbour, Egersund was very important for the Germans strategies along the Atlantic Wall. Additionally, Egersund was home to the telegraph line between Norway and England.

    Industry

    The most important industry in Egersund has always had to do with the sea. Egersund has one of the best natural harbours in Norway. Up until 2006, it was the largest fishing harbour in the country. It has since been replaced by Ålesund. Today, Egersund’s other interests relate to fishing, the oil industry, and shipping.

    For those who love ceramics, Egersund is a great spot for this. The first company to do this is Egersund Fayancefabrikk in 1847. It was the largest employer in Egersund until it closed down in 1979. They made glazed ceramic beats, figures, plates and other items. Today if you find one of their items, you can sell it for thousands of kroners. You can learn about their company, and the industry overall, at the Egersund Fayance Museum (click here). There is another brand called ‘Egersund’ and you can often find their ceramics in the vintage shops for a reasonable price. Take a look here on Etsy at some Egersund ceramics.

    Top attractions

    Egersund Church

    The earliest existing record of a church dates back to 1292, but the church dates back to before then. The 1292 record is from Pope Nicholas IV in Rome, discussing indulgence issues. Egersund’s first church was likely a stave church dedicated to St. Mary. In the 12th century, churches dedicated to St. Mary appeared in Stavanger, Bergen and Tønsberg. The church is no longer standing but was likely where the present-day Egersund church is. Before the church, it’s likely that the site was used by pagans. Old folklore says that an altar stood there and people used it to sacrifice to the Norse gods, but this has not been verified. Still, it’s possible and pretty interesting!

    Egersund Church replaced the early church in 1623. While Egersund Church has undergone alterations, it has never burnt down. This new church is situated so that the choir is at the east end of the building. In 1726, the Danish/Norwegian King Frederik IV sold the church to pay some debts hs had from the Great Northern War. The parish purchased the church so it was no longer privately owned.

    Between 1785 and 1788, the church underwent a major renovation. Architects added the cruciform layout and higher ceilings. The new ceiling height meant that teired galleries were built around the church. This expansion greatly increased the capacity of the church and made it the second largest church in the county.

    In 1927, it was restored back to its 17th century appearance. You’ll see a blue plaque out the front commemorating the churches involvement in the 1814 voting.

    Egersund Town Centre

    Looking for the best preserved wooden centre in Norway? Egersund is considered one of the best!

    Egersund has the poor economy to thank for its preserved wooden architecture. Throughout the last century, the municipality prepared zoning plans to demolish the old buildings. Instead, they wanted to build concrete ones. However, due to the lack of funds, they were unable to follow through. The wooden houses remained.

    Today we know Egersund for their original architecture. Most wooden houses are the Late Empire style.

    There are lots of little shops in the streets of Egersund, especially on Storgaten. One of my favourites is a tiny antique store – it’s where I bought my Egersund ceramics!

    Here are some of the most picturesque streets:

    Strandgaten

    Strandgaten (Beach Street) is one of the main streets of Egersund. Many places in Norway have a Strandgaten, and it is typically found close to the bay’s edge. Before the city regulation of 1843, Strandgaten winded between the sea and the park. The street was straighened out after the 1843 fire. Strandgaten then linked the steamship quay and the railway station.

    The street was heavily trafficked and difficult to pass through. In addition to having wooden buildings on each side of the road, there were staircases up to the buildings built on the road. Only one carriage could fit down the road at a time. In the 19th century the municipality made efforts to get the locals to remove the stairs, but it didn’t get better. Instead, herring barrels were stacked where the stairs used to be! Along the street, sailors and craftsmen lived.

    Storgaten

    Storgaten (Big Street) is another main road. It is the main traffic artery between the east and west parts of the city. Since 1972, Storgaten is a pedestrian street. It’s here that you’ll find the more historic wooden houses.

    Pig's Square (Grisatorget)

    The name comes from the fact that piglets used to be traded on this spot. The statue is from 1984 and commemorates this trade. When they unveiled the statue, the locals grilled a whole pig in the square.

    At this spot you’ll find narrow alleys leading between wooden houses. This is the only place in Egersund where you can see the original street layout before the grid plan.

    Grand Hotel

    Grand Hotel dates back to 1878, when it opened as Hotel Jarderen. One of the first events here was the opening of the railroad. Sadly the hotel has been affected by fires multiple times, and in 1896 and 1926 was rebuilt.

    Egersund Chocolate Factory

    The Egersund Chocolate Factory is a unique attraction in the centre of Egersund. Here you can buy real chocolate made on site in the factory in the basement. Additionally, they offer courses in chocolate making. Over 800 locals supported the opening of the factory and are all shareholders. They meet every summer at the General Assembly to discuss and eat their product

    Practical Information

    Getting Here

    It is possible to reach Egersund by train from Stavanger, Kristiansand and Oslo.

    Oslo to Egersund: 7 hours
    Kristiansand to Egersund: 1 hour 50 minutes
    Stavanger to Egersund: 1 hour 9 minutes. This is the Jærenbanen, or a renowned scenic coastal train.

    The trains run hourly to Stavanger, while there are express and regional trains to Kristiansand and Oslo.

    GoAhead Nordic operates Oslo-Kristiansand-Egersund. Stavanger-Egersund is operated by Vy. Ticket prices vary according to the time of day, season and seating class.

    Egersund is located close to the junction of the County Roads 42 and 44. County Road 44 is the famous National Tourist Road for Jæren (click here). County Road 42 will take you to the European Highway 39 (E39), which links Stavanger with Oslo via Kristiansand and the Oslofjord region.

    Oslo to Egersund (via Kristiansand): 6 hours 24 mins
    Stavanger to Egersund (E39): 1 hour 9 mins
    Stavanger to Egersund (Jæren Scenic Road): 1 hour 23 mins

    Note – most of the parking in Egersund town centre requires payment. Download the app EasyPark (click here) to pay for parking. This app is common around Norway. There’s street parking close to the church and town centre.

    Wrapping Up

    As you can see, there’s a lot to do in Egersund. If you get the chance to visit, I highly recommend. Even if it’s a day trip from Egersund, it’s well worth it. Walk through the narrow alleys, eat some chocolate, and buy some Egersund ceramics!

    The Fv44 Highway

    Egersund is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Egersund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Southern Norway

    Drive it Yourself: the Ryfylke Scenic Road

    Drive it Yourself: the Ryfylke Tourist Road

    Rocky mountains, steep cliffs and scenic views. The Ryfylke Scenic Road is a true gem of southern Norway; built to serve the new hydropower plants, it’s hard to believe that this wasn’t designed as a tourist road. Today, it’s a scenic alternative to the main highway between Bergen and Stavanger.

    I did the Ryfylke Scenic Road in September 2020 as part of my Ultimate Norwegian Road Trip. Here’s my driving guide with what you can see and experience, as well as a summary of the history and significance of each major sight. I’ve also included as much practical information as I can so you know exactly what to expect on the road.

    Ultimate Norwegian Road-Trip

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The Drive: Ryfylke Tourist Road

    Odda

    Odda is a small industrial town located at the end of the Sørfjorden. It’s growing in popularity thanks to its nearby natural attractions, namely the Troll Tongue hike and the Folgefonna National Park.

    Odda Travel Guide

    Sandvinvatnet

    Lake

    Sandvinvatnet is the lake you’ll pass immediately after leaving Odda. The lake is 4.3km2 (1.7 sq mi) and is close to the Buarbreen glacier, which is on the opposite side from where we are driving. You can take a detour there, but it adds considerable time.

    Låte Waterfall (Låtefossen)

    Waterfall

    This is one of the most popular places for visitors to take photos, and understandably so! It’s just before the village of Skare.

    The waterfall is 95m (312ft) high and is well-known for the two separate streams flowing down from a lake on the hill. They then go under the E13 highway, and there is a historic stone six-arched bridge over the falls.

    There is a carpark and footpath here. Just keep in mind it’s still a major highway so cars do rush past, and parking is very limited for such a popular attraction.

    I’ve got a full article about the waterfall, which you can read here.

     

    Låtefossen Waterfall

    Røldalsfjellet/Seljestadjuvet

    Scenic Road

    If you’re short on time you can opt to take the tunnels to Horda, but if you want to see some scenery you can take the old road over the mountains to Horda. The turn off is just before the Seljestadtunnelen.

    The Seljestadjuvet road has recently been re-paved so it’s a modern road, but it’s very narrow and consists of several hairpin bends. The road was built between 1859 and 1865 and is considered a piece of Norwegian history. The repaved road is newer than this; it is possible to hike the original 1850s road. Pilgrims used to use this road as they made their way to the historic Røldal Stave Church; it was also used by traders on their way to Røldal Market and travellers on their way east.

    The road is only open for vehicles under 2m.

    You can see the entire road on my YouTube video.

     

    Røldal Stave Church

    Stave Church

    Click the button below for my overview of Røldal Stave Church. 

    Røldal Stave Church

    Rogaland County

    Rogaland is a county in the south-western part of Norway. The first element of the name comes from rygir, which refers to a tribe that used to live in the area. The second element, land, means ‘land’ or ‘region’. Finds of skeletons have been found from the Stone Age, while many items from the Bronze Age and Iron Age have been found. Many crosses in the Irish style have also been found.

    The coastal part of Rogaland was important during the Viking Age and rich finds indicate that there was strong chieftainship here from the Iron Age. Stavanger was a centre of power.

    Sauda Municipality

    Sauda’s business life is primarily based on metal processing, and unlike the rest of Rogaland there is no focus on agriculture here. 

    The way the landscape was formed comes from the last Ice Age. The ice that slid down from the Sauda mountains collided with a glacier. This collision created the Hylsfjord and resulted in the Saudafjord meeting the Sandsfjord. The narrow straits make it difficult for ships to call at the port of Sauda. During the Nazi occupation, the Germans planned to build a canal to make it easier. The plateaus were formed approximately 10,000 years ago during the last Ice Age. 

    Sauda

    Town

    With a population of 4,254 inhabitants, Sauda is the fifth largest town in Rogaland county. It is primarily an industrial town. From the medieval period onwards, waterfall power was used to run sawmills. People from all over the world, especially the Netherlands, started to traude with Sauda. By the end of the 19th century mining began here. In 1910 the American company Electric Furnace Company began the construction of then Europe’s largest smelting plant, which could only be built because of the large number of waterfalls. During World War II, the Germans built a large aluminium melting plant, though those buildings have since been demolished. 

    Sauda has historically been an important area for industry. It is home to Northern Europe’s largest melting plant, Eramet AS. 

    Svandalsfossen

    Waterfall

    Svandalsfossen is a beautiful waterfall located just outside Sauda. What makes the waterfall interesting is that there is a staircase with 540 steps leading up the side of the waterfall. The staircase system was built in 2006 and if you make it to the top you’ll be rewarded with a nice shower from the waterfall.

    You’ll see brown tourist signs pointing to the carpark as you get close. If you don’t wish to park, you will very clearly see the waterfall as you drive past it.

    Suldal Municipality

    Suldal is a small agricultural municipality in the traditional Ryfylke district. The area has a long history of trade connections to the nearby valley regions in the north and east and is located on the historic trade route. The administrative centre is Sand i Ryfylke.

    Hålandsosen

    Settlement

    Hålandsosen is the next settlement you’ll drive through. Here you’ll see the Erfjord Church, which is a white, wooden church from 1877. There is also a historic home here called Storgarden i Erfjord, which is part of the Ryfylke Museum. The museum was built in the 17th century and is open for private tours.

    Hjelmeland Municipality

    Hjelmeland is a municipality within the traditional district of Ryfylke. Traditionally, agriculture and fruit growing have been the most important industries. There is some heavy industry here too, with a large sand outlet at Årdal. Sand is collected in the village, cleaned and then exported on ships. At Hundsnes there is a salmon abattoir. The traditional Jaeren chairs also come from here.

    Nesvik - Hjelmeland Ferry

    Settlement

    This is where you take the only ferry on this road-trip to Hjelmeland. Just follow signs to Stavanger & Hjelmeland to get onto the ferry. The ferry runs approximately every twenty minutes.

    Hjelmelandsvågen

    Village

    Hjelmelandsvagen is the small village on the other side of the ferry.

    One of the more unique things to visit here is the “World’s largest traditional Jærstol” (Jaeren Chair). It is clearly marked on Google Maps.

    Årdal

    Town

    Årdal is a small village in the Hjelmeland municipality. The main industry here is sand, crushed stone and gravel, with about one million tons shipped every year. 

    Located in the village is the historic Old Årdal Church. The church was built in 1620, though the earliest church documents date back to 1308. The first church on the site was a stave church likely built in the 13th century. The new church from 1620 was built using some of the materials from the stave church and part of the foundation under the southwest corner is on the same foundation as the medieval stave church. 

    In 1919, the new Årdal Church was built about 600 metres to the southwest of the old church, and since then Årdal Old Church has not been used regularly. It is still used for weddings and concerts. 

    Strand Municipality

    Strand municipality is known for its production of fruit, vegetables, and dairy products. There are also some mills located in the municipality. The coat-of-arms shows three red water wheels on a grey background, symbolising hydropower in the region.

    Tau

    Village

    Tau is a small village within Strand Municipality. The main employer here is Comrod Communications, which manufactures antennas for military use.

    Ryfylke Tunnel

    Tunnel

    At 14.4km (8.9 mi) long the Ryfylke Tunnel is currently the world’s longest and deepest subsea tunnel at the time it was built. In 2023 Rogfast, another subsea tunnel in Rogaland County, is expected to open and take over the title from the Ryfylke Tunnel. The tunnel opened in December 2019 after six years of construction.

    When you come out on the other side, you are in Stavanger.

    Stavanger

    Stavanger is an interesting city with strong Viking connections. However, today Stavanger is known throughout Norway for being the centre of the oil industry.

    Read more about Stavanger via the link below. 

    Stavanger Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    The Jæren Tourist Road

    Continue your drive through Southern Norway by taking the very unique Jæren Tourist Road. 

    Jæren Tourist Road

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “The Ultimate Norwegian Road-Trip”, which is a 10 day road-trip to the best spots in Norway. You can view the entire drive below. 

    Ultimate Norway Road-Trip

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Jæren

    Varhaug Old Cemetery

    Varhaug Old Churchyard is one of the highlights of the National Tourist Road for Jæren and the historic hiking path Kongevegen.

    This is probably one of the most scenic spots on the road, and understandably so. After all, Varhaug is considered to be the most photogenic cemetery in all of Norway! Situated close to the North Sea, this cemetery overlooks the water on a flat, grassy plain. The tiny white chapel stands out in the distance, as does the iron grave monuments.

    This article is part of:

    About Varhaug

    Distance to Stavanger: 46.7km (29.9 miles) / 46 minutes
    Distance to Egersund: 39.2km (24.3 miles) / 38 minutes

    First off, lets talk about the nearby village of Varhaug. After all, this is where the cemetery gets its name.

    Varhaug is the second largest village along the Jæren coast and is the administrative centre for the Hå Municipality.

    While people have lived here for thousands of years, the village wasn’t founded until the late 19th century. Varhaug expanded quickly thanks to the construction of the train station along the Jærbanen, or Jæren Trainline. Why it was decided to build a train station in what was a scattered farming settlement is unknown, but nonetheless Varhaug got a train station. Perhaps it’s because the farms close to the sea, as in Varhaug, have traditionally been wealthy and important to Jæren.

    Above all, the Jæren coast is flat. That’s what makes it unique. Varhaug is actually the highest village on the coast, with an elevation of 40-60m (130-200ft).

    Agriculture has historically been the backbone of the region. However, it has gradually become less important as the village developed and Norway modernised. Agriculture is still important, but today the municipality is the largest employer. Another important company is Fjordkjøkken AS, a company that makes dinner meals for the Norwegian brand Fjordland. Some people commute to Stavanger for work.

    At the moment, Varhaug is having a problem with growth. The surrounding agricultural land is considered some of the best in the country, and there’s a resistance to building new homes on top of it. Moreover, the land is important to Norway’s food supply. At the moment the future of the village is unknown; one possibility is to build apartments. However, that will affect the natural landscape.

    The population of Varhaug is 3,239.

    The Historic Churches

    The site of the present-day cemetery is where the historic church used to stand. There have been at least three churches here. A stave church came first; likely built around the year 1200. Sadly, the stave church was demolished in the mid-17th century to make way for a more modern church. That church fell into disrepair and became a private property in 1725. A new church replaced it in 1828 – the architect is Hans Linstow, who also designed the Palace in Oslo. They demolished this church in 1905 when Varhaug’s present-day church was completed in the village. This old church site was just too far away.

    Varhaug Church in 1837: Click here to view a drawing of the church dated to 1837.

    The current chapel is from 1951. It has some features of the old churches. The highlight are the church bells inside the chapel; these date back to 1791. Additionally, the sculpture Sapienta (wisdom) is preserved. The sculpture is from 1650-1720. According to the Stavanger Museum, where the sculpture is on display, it likely came from one of the first churches.

    Factory owner Asbjørn Stueland commissioned the chapel. It is 15m2 wide and has 14 wicker chairs to sit on. The chapel is popular with weddings.

    Varhaug Cemetery

    Varhaug cemetery is ancient. In fact, it’s believed that the original site was an important pagan worshipping site. That lends itself to the fact that a stave church stood here in the early years of Christianity. Typically, stave churches stood on pagan sites to show the new religion. Some of the graves date back to the Middle Ages.

    This ancient cemetery is often described as the most beautiful cemetery in the country. This is due to its close position to the sea.

    Today Varhaug Old Cemetery is a protected as a cultural monument.

    Varhaug Old Cemetery
    The Russian memorial is visible to the right – it looks like an onion dome.

    Russian Shipwreck

    One of the coast’s most known shipwrecks took place here in 1842. A ship called ‘Ingermanland’, a Russian ship, encountered storms in the area and ran aground. After grounding, the sea lifted it up and drifted west with the wind. After drifting for 10 hours, it came ashore again. By then, the ship was completely wrecked. 503 people were rescued from the ship and 387 died. Among the dead were 21 women and 7 children.

    A memorial for those who perished is at the cemetery.

    Read more: English Wikipedia

    Kongevegen

    The cemetery is part of the historic Kongevegen route. This is an old road between Stavanger in the north and Ogna in the south. The name (English: King’s Way/King’s Road) is from a 17th century royal decree ordering farmers to provide a cart road along the coast. At the time, Norway had very few roads. The road was used by royals, farmers, and even pilgrims.

    During the 19th century, the road moved inland to the present-day highway. Additionally, Kongevegen was abandoned when the railway opened.

    Today Kongevegen is a popular walking path. Moreover, it is possible to see traces of the historic road as you walk along it.

    My Thoughts

    We stopped at the Varhaug cemetery very quickly. I didn’t walk all the way up to the chapel, as the most scenic shots seem to be from further away. I did find it beautiful to stop at, but it’s only necessary to stop here for a few minutes.

    Practical Info

    Address: Sør-varhaug 71, 4360 Varhaug

    It appears in Google Maps as Varhaug Gamle Gravlund and Varhaug gamle kirkegård.

    Parking: Dedicated carpark with free parking

    Cost: Free

    Signs: The cemetery has road signs pointing to it. There are no English information boards; just a stone written in Norwegian.

    Resources

  • Jæren

    Obrestad Lighthouse in Jæren

    The Norwegian coastline is littered with lighthouses. Many of them are simple, uninteresting modern lighthouses, but the older ones often have a story to tell. If you’re doing the Jæren Scenic Drive in Southern Norway, there’ll be some great lighthouses to see. Obrestad lighthouse is one of them!

    I visited Obrestad Lighthouse in September 2020. Here is my overview of the lighthouse’s history and present-day use.

    Obrestad Lighthouse

    The view from the lighthouse

    Location & Building Style

    The Obrestad lighthouse sits on a promontory about 5km (3.1 miles) west of the town of Nærbø. The name of the lighthouse comes from the farm it is sitting on. ‘Obre’ means ‘float’ or ‘flow’ and ‘stad’ can mean ‘place’. It is close to Obrestad, a small farming village. A harbour was constructed here in 1874 and is still in use today. The Obrestad Harbour is the first artificial harbour in Jæren. Moreover, 1845 a sea rescue station for seafarers opened here, and it was in use until 1977. During the war, the harbour was a meeting place for the resistance movement, and boats transported people to Scotland.

    Obrestad’s History

    Obrestad is mentioned in the Viking Sagas. Erik Bjodskalle, a known chieftain, had his farm here around 950 AD. He is the father of Queen Astrid, who is the mother of the famous Viking King Olav Tryggvason. Astrid and Olaf sought refuge in Obrestad before heading east.
    The present structure of the lighthouse is from 1950, though it was first built 1873. The square granite tower is 16.5m (54ft) tall and is next to a 1.5m granite lighthouse keepers home. It’s rare to find a lighthouse keepers home built in granite in Norway. The reason for this is that when it came time to built Obrestad lighthouse, the lighthouse service was tired of maintaining small wooden houses. Small wooden houses were continuously damaged by the elements, and maintenance was expensive.

    Granite was an experimental construction material. Additionally, they used brick and concrete. When the building was finished, they quickly realised that the materials are very cold and damp to live in. The new lighthouse keepers home is from 1905.

    The lighthouse sits at an elevation of 39m (128ft) above sea level. The light emits a continuous white light with an intensity of 129,900 candela with a more intense white flash every 30 seconds. The lighthouse emits a racon signal: the morse cod letter O.

    Coastal area

    History of Obrestad Lighthouse

    The North Sea is rough around the Jæren coast, and the rocky Varhaug Beach is notorious for shipwrecks. The waves are so strong that in told times the waves were a great way to turn ships into scrap. If you need to get rid of your ship, simply leave it on the beach in autumn. Throughout winter, the storms will take care of it. When you return in spring, you’ll have a pile of scrap ready to sell.

    Click here to view an image of the lighthouse around 1900

    Obrestad Lighthouse was originally built in 1873 to make the coast safer. For the first thirty years, the light source was an oil burner with a wick. In 1902 a petroleum glow burner replaced the oil burner, giving a far stronger light. In 1916, the lighthouse was electrified and they added a fog signal.

    During the Second World War, the lighthouse was part of the Germans’ defence. They built a lookout tower and bomb shelters. Additionally, military personnel lived in the homes.

    After the war, the granite building became the machine house. The lighthouse was moved to a concrete tower. After being decommissioned and automated in 1991, it was empty until the municipality bought it.

    Obrestad Lighthouse Today

    In 2006, the Hå Municipality purchased the lighthouse from the Norwegian Coastal Administration. The goal is to preserve the history and culture of the facility.

    Today Obrestad lighthouse is a lighthouse museum. It’s possible to rent out the keepers home or three other units as accommodation. There’s also one house that is available to rent for parties. The buildings consist of a lighthouse keepers house, outbuilding, service house and family house. They are around a square yard.

    The lighthouse is close to the Hå gamle prestegard. This is a historic vicarage from at least 1637, though possibly older. Since 1997, the municipality owns the property. It is a gallery for contemporary artists from Norway and abroad. Close to the prestegard is a burial ground from the Viking Age.

    Obrestad lighthouse is on ‘Kongevegen’, an old royal road. It is a marked coastal path that passes attractions, burial grounds and ancient traces of settlement. Obrestad lighthouse is also part of the coastal pilgrims route to Trondheim.

    Kongevegen Coastal Walk: Click here
    Pilgrims Coastal Route: Click here

    My Thoughts

    I enjoyed visiting this lighthouse. The surrounding area is especially scenic and great for photography. The road to the lighthouse is very narrow and a little confusing. While many may skip this lighthouse and go to the more famous Kvassheim lighthouse, I am glad we stopped at Obrestad.

    Resources

  • Jæren

    Orre Old Church

    Emma

    Orre Old Church is a historic stone church located along the Jæren Scenic Road in Southern Norway. It is the oldest building in the surrounding area. We visited the church as part of our road trip through Norway. It was a short visit, mostly because there were no clear marking on how to walk up to the church. Moreover, the church is located seemingly on private property – it was a little awkward parking in someones driveway to visit a church! Still, if you get the chance to visit, there’s something special about this church.

    In this article...

    The Fv44 Highway

    Ore Old Church is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of the Church

    Orre Old Church in 1912 (Source)

    The first mention of the church is in the year 1448, but the church is likely from before then. It’s believed that the church is from the year 1250 and built according to designs from English monks. The thick walls are soapstone which are then plastered and painted white.

    Very little is known of the historical use of the church.

    Church Renovations

    In 1865, the church underwent major renovation. One of the extensions is the wooden choir, as well as the small porch on the west entrance.

    During the renovations, the historic stone arch windows were removed and much larger square windows were added. This greatly changed the appearance of the building. Additionally, the wooden extension and the new windows badly damaged the church.

    Embalmed corpses were discovered buried under the church. They are very well preserved. The corpses were reburied under the new altar when the renovation was complete.

    Orre Old Church is in the middle of a cemetery. The cemetery likely has a number of graves, but no monument or gravestone is preserved from the old times.

    Orre Church Today

    Orre Old Church

    The church was the town’s church until 1950, when the new Orre Church was ready. The new church can be seen in Pollestad, the nearby village.

    Today the church is a museum but also occasionally used for services and weddings.

    Orre Old Church seen from the road (Google Maps screenshot)

    Visiting the Church

    Orre Old Church is located on the national tourist road through Jæren. The church is not marked along the road; but it is on Google Maps. The church parking is on a farm property – I remember when we arrived the farmer was trying to leave with his tractor!

    The Fv44 Highway

    Ore Old Church is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Jæren

    Norway’s Stonehenge: Domsteinane in Southern Norway

    Emma

    If you’re driving south from Stavanger along the coast, I highly recommend a quick stop at Norway’s Stonehenge: Domsteinane. It’s a mysterious and strange ancient monument that is yet to be answered. We stopped there on our Jæren Scenic Drive, and while it wasn’t a long stop, it was a lot of fun.

    Information on Domsteinane is scarce – you’ll see why – but I’ve tried to compile the most important bits to know before your visit.

    In this article...

    The Fv44 Highway

    Domsteinane is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Historical Mentions of Domsteinane

    The first historical mention of Domsteinane is in 1745. County Governor Bendix Christian de Finn wrote about it in his description of Stavanger:
    “on a flat plane above Sola beach stands very neatly a precise circle about 64m in circumference upright 24 grey stones. [It’s] like small bauta stones, where in between each of the high stone lies. In the middle of the circle you can see an obvious flat grey stone, like a table, and two large white stones to it on.”

    The next mention doesn’t come until the 1860s. Nicolay Nicolaysen writes that it was not possible to find the place Bendix wrote about:
    “About half a quarter from Solegårdene and about halfway between these and the south-facing farm Reke, there is a supposedly wrongly named Thingsted. However, since about 1790 has been completely hidden by sand, so that not even its place can be proven. Only of Finn description from 1745, according to which consisted of a circle, about 34 cubits in diameter, with an upright square stone in the middle and 24 similar stones around “.
    There are so many more written descriptions of the site. I’ve listed them in the resources below. Still, the monument was scarcely or accurately written about. Finn’s description has later been questioned and even discredited by some historians.

    Due to the elements (it is close to a beach), sand covered the stone circle. It remained hidden between the mid-18th and late 19th centuries. Additionally, it is exposed to erosion. Over time the locals took the stones to use on their properties as furniture, fences, and so on. By 1924, the stones were gone from the site.

    Discovering Domsteinane

    After an initiative from the Sola Historical Society, the Rogaland City Council has reconstructed the monument. The stones in the circle are for the most part the same original stones. The council gathered them back from the neighbours. The reconstruction is based on earlier descriptions and mentions. The site opened to the public in 2008. It took some time due to finding the specific location in a very dense pine forest. Then, they had to clear the forest.

    Possible Meanings

    Domsteinane is one of Norway’s most mysterious and strange monuments. No one knows for sure what it is or the meaning behind it. These kinds of stone circles are uncommon in Norway. This is probably the most peculiar stone circle in Scandinavia.

    Generally, stone circles like this can be linked to tomb stones or sacred places. Stone rings in Scandinavia are often associated with funerals. Graves are commonly found within the rings. However, no graves have been found in Domsteinane. It’s suggested that rituals took place here in the Viking Age.

    Some locals believe the stone circle is linked to Erling Skjalgsson and is his courthouse. In Nicolay’s description, he mentioned that the stone circle was (incorrectly) called Tingstedet; ‘ting’ is an old word for a council. Moreover, it’s accepted that Domsteinane is from before his time. Several stone rings in Norway date from the older Iron Age (500BC – 550AD), so Domsteinane may be from this time.

    What is It?

    Domsteinane is a circular shape of stones. There are eight symmetrical ‘spokes’ that may represent the sun, the wheel of life, or possibly a place for worshipping. The stone circle has a diameter of 22.5m and consists of 24 outer stones at 1-1.2 metres high. In the middle is a white flat stone, indicating that it is an altar.

    Practical Information

    Domsteinane has no address, but it is visible and searchable on Google Maps. Moreover, the road it’s on does not have a name.

    There is a small carpark located in front of the monument. Parking is free. It’s a short walk to the site, but keep in mind there’s no footpath so it might be muddy.

    An information board in Norwegian, English and German stands outside the site. Moreover, it has an image of what they think Domsteinane was used for.

    Resources

    The Fv44 Highway

    Domsteinane is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide