tromso

  • A Brief History of the Pomor Trade

    A Brief History of the Pomor Trade

    When you visit Northern Norway, chances are you’ll come across something called the Pomor Trade. When I first started visiting Finnmark, I would typically disregard any mention of the Pomors as a small part of history here that had little importance. However, after visiting Vardø back in September 2023, I came to realise just how vital the Pomors had been to the development of Northern Norway.

    I’ve put together this article as a short historic overview of the Pomors. Perhaps it’ll benefit your own trip to Northern Norway!

    Pomor Museum in Vardø
    Pomor buildings in Vardø

    What is a Pomor?

    This took me way too long to figure out. A “Pomor” is actually an ethnographic group that come from Russian settlers from around the region of Novgorod. They came to the White Sea region hundreds of years ago, following the various river systems through Russia. The word ‘Pomor’ derives from the word ‘Pomorsky’ (which means ‘maritime’) and is a word used to describe the coast of the White Sea. 

    Historic Trade Between Russia and Norway & Development of the Pomor Trade

    The people of Norway and Russia have been trading for hundreds of years. In fact, it can be traced back to the Viking Age. The Russians were known to also trade with the Sami people. 

    Trade between Russians and the Norwegians began to come into its modern form when the trade monopoly in Bergen was legalised. Basically, the King said that all foreign merchants had to go to Bergen, and all fishermen had to sell their catch in Bergen. 

    However, for the fishermen this was tough. In the colder months it was no problem as the fish could stay preserved for the long journey, but for a few weeks over the summer the temperatures were too warm and the fish risked going bad.

    The Pomors found a way to exploit this – they could buy the fish directly from the fishermen (back then it was common to go through a middleman, which also drove up prices). It benefitted the fishermen, too – they could sell direct, the fish wouldn’t go bad, and they were able to get supplies from the Pomors without having to all the way to Bergen. Was it a little illegal? Sure. But back then Northern Norway didn’t have much law enforcement, so they were able to get away with it. 

    The beginning of the Pomor Trade and important trade connections

    The beginning of the Pomor Trade is generally regarded to be in the early 18th century, simply because trade began to become more organised. 

    At first, the trade was a barter trade between people in the area, who traded grain products from Russia with fish products from Norway. However, money began to be used in the early 18th century, and in some places in Northern Norway the ruble was used as a currency. Trading with the Pomors also originally had no taxes or customs fees. 

    The trade always involved the Pomors coming to Norway; the Norwegians rarely travelled to Russia. The Pomors would bring wheats and grains, but starting in the 18th century they began bringing rye flour, which was important for the Norwegians and another reason the Pomor trade officially began around that time. The grain was grown inland around the Volga River and then transported along the White Sea. 

    The trade of grain was vital for the Norwegians as it doesn’t grow along the coast. Also, in Norway in the 18th century there were several crop failures and the price of rye in Bergen increased fivefold. For the fishermen, having the Pomors come directly to them and selling the grains and flour at good prices was essential for survival. 

    In addition to rye and wheat flour, the Pomors carried other food, such as oatmeal, salt, peas, meat and dairy products. Other useful merchandise was also carried, such as iron, timber, tar, birch bark, candles, cooking pots, hemp, rope and canvas. They also brought luxury products, such as candy, soap, porcelain and wood carvings.

    From the Norwegians they would take fish of various sorts, mainly Atlantic cod and dry saithe, but also Atlantic halibut and haddock.

    Where did they trade?

    The main centre of the Pomor Trade in Norway was Vardø, which is located close to the Russian border. The harbour in Vardø could at times have over 100 Russian vessels moored simultaneously, and the town had a Russian consulate. 

    Other towns that were important for the Pomors include Hamningberg (a now abandoned fishing village) and Hammerfest, though the Pomors did trade in other places like Vadsø and Kjøllefjord. Tromsø gained trading privileges a few years later and was given the monopoly for trading with the Pomors in the region of Troms. Eventually the Pomors were trading as far south as the Lofoten Islands. 

    In Russia, the city of Arkangelsk was the centre of Pomor Trade, and it was founded in 1584 as a trade centre for the White Sea. 

    Arkangelsk 1896

    Attempts at Regulation

    As the Pomor Trade grew somewhat illegally, when Norwegian sovereignty was enforced over Northern Norway, there began to be attempts to control the Pomor Trade. 

    Already back in 1316 the King of the time, King Håkon V, prevented foreigners from trading in Northern Norway. All foreign ships had to stop in Bergen. 

    Until the Reformation in 1537, the trade between the North and the Hanseatic League in Bergen was controlled by the archbishop in Trondheim. After the Reformation, the privileges of trade were handed from the church to the citizens of Bergen and Trondheim, giving them a monopoly. 

    There are reports of Russians trading illegally from the 17th century onwards. If the Russians and Norwegians were caught trading outside of Bergen, the Norwegians would be denied winter supplies from Norwegian traders. This lasted until 1715. 

    In the late 18th century, trade was placed under control of the King and trading houses of Copenhagen. In 1783 the government in Copenhagen decided that the Pomor Trade should be somewhat legalised, and that North Norwegians should get their grain from the Russians rather than Denmark. The Danish King Christian VII gave Vardø, Hammerfest and Tromsø status of trading towns in order to regulate the Pomor trade better. 

    However, there was one thing in the way. The fact that the Pomors could trade freely with the fishermen was bad for the government, who were missing out on their precious taxes. So, it was made illegal. Eventually it was made legal again, but the Pomors could only trade directly with fishermen in the short weeks where the warm climate makes it difficult to preserve fish. 

    Napoleonic Wars

    The Pomor Trade was targeted by the British during the Napoleonic Wars. During the Gunboat War, the United Kingdom put a trade embargo on Denmark-Norway. This made the Pomor Trade almost essential for survival for the North Norwegians, and they got a special decree legalising direct trade between the Pomors and fishermen in 1809. 

    During the Anglo-Russian War, the British government established a blockade along the Norwegian coast. One of their goals was to stop the Pomor Trade and cut off supply lines of goods from Arkangelsk. The Norwegians responded by fortifying the important harbours, such as Hammerfest. In 1810, the Norwegians established a special naval squadron called “The Finnmark Squadron” to protect the Pomor Trade.

    However, despite all this the British did manage to bomb and heavily damage Hammerfest. 

    The Golden Age and Rapid End

    Throughout the 19th century the conditions in Norway began to improve and the dependence on grain from Russia began to decline. Eventually the trade privileges and rules were lifted in 1870, and the Pomors were more or less free to come as they please. These lighter regulations led to the Pomors modernising their vessels and by 1870, 400 Russian Pomor vessels visited Tromsø. Normally 300 vessels would visit all of Norway in one year. By 1900, Russia was Norway’s fourth most important trade partner, and rye flour remained the most important commodity. After 1910, less flour was traded, and the Russians paid for the fish with money instead. 

    Things sounded like they were going well, but everything ended abruptly in 1917, when the Russian Revolution ended all trade. This had understandable negative effects on the economy of Northern Norway, especially for the coastal communities as the fishermen no longer had the possibility to see their summer catch. Some Russian vessels still did come. The last vessel came in 1929, when Joseph Stalin’s collectivization came into full effect, ending private property rights and persecuting merchants. 

    Lasting impact of the Pomors

    It’s important to not understate the lasting effect the Pomor Trade had on the coastal communities in Northern Norway. Many of the villages along the Finnmark coast developed in the 19th century thanks to the Pomor Trade, and were able to afford luxuries they otherwise wouldn’t get. It also led to a good relationship between the two countries, and in 1875 there was even a regular steamship service between Arkangelsk and Vardø. This allowed for Russian tourism and seasonal workers in Finnmark. 

    Often the same Pomor vessels would visit the same place year after year, and the Norwegians got to know the crew. The Russians and the trade with them had high esteem in Northern Norway and they were known for being friendly. The people of Northern Norway also got an insight into a difficult culture and it in turn affected Norwegian culture. 

    Lastly, and also perhaps most interesting, a pidgin language developed between the Pomors and the North Norwegians called Russenorsk. Russenorsk has a restricted grammar mostly related to Arctic fishing and trading. You can find some examples of Russenorsk on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russenorsk

    Where to go from here

    If you want to learn more about the Pomor Trade, visit the city of Vardø, which is home to the Pomor Museum. The city also has wooden warehouses still standing from the Pomor time. You can read about Vardø on our travel guide page. 

    Please leave any questions or comments below!

  • Drive it Yourself: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    The Lyngen Alps are described as the ‘Mecca’ for skiiers and hikers all over the world, with many dreaming of coming here just to make the most of the incredible downhill slopes. For those of us who aren’t here to ski, Lyngen is a gorgeous region perfect for a short vacation.

    We spent the night in the Lyngen region towards the end of our North Norwegian road-trip. For us, we chose it simply because it was roughly halfway between where we were (Hammerfest) and where we had to be (Tromsø). We found an adorable AirBNB overlooking the Alps and had a nice rest before finishing the drive.

    Most of this drive takes place on the E6, which also has the nickname ‘the Northern Lights Highway’ up here because of all the roadside stops perfect for viewing the lights. The E6 is the main highway running through Norway and while it is not the most scenic, it is the only way to get between places when you are this far north.

    Here’s an overview of what you can see along the way. 

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    The Lyngen Alps

    The Lyngen Alps are a scenic mountain range that stretch 90km (56 mi) along the Lyngen Peninsula, with the Lyngen fjord to the east and the Ullsfjorden to the west.

    The mountains are popular among extreme skiers, with the highest summit being 1,833m (6,014ft) tall. The mountains are also popular with climbers.

    Olderdalen

    Olderdalen is the main centre for the Kåfjord Municipality we are in. The population is around 301 and the town looks out to the Lyngen Alps. If you use ferries, it is only a 70km drive. However, if you follow the E6 it is around 180km. Agriculture and fishing are the main industries.

    Birtavarre

    Birtavarre is a small village with a population of around 215. The village was a former mining town with smelters. It was during the mining period that it took the name Birtavarre; before then, it was known as ‘Kåfjordbotn’ after the fjord. The name Birtavarre comes from the nearby mountain Pirttivaara, which is a Kven language name.

    Manndalen

    Manndalen is a small village with a population of just under 1000. Historically, Manndalen was where the ‘three tribes’ (Kven, Sami, Norwegian) all settled. People began to arrive from Finland in the 1700s and many locals today consider themselves descendants of these people. The area was also used as the summer grazing area for the reindeer herding Sami. Today Manndalen is a centre for the revitalisation of Sea Sami culture and language and now there is a Sami department in the kindergarten and a Sami language centre. The Riddu Riđđu festival is an annual Sami music and culture festival that takes place here.

    The town was destroyed during World War II, and the town was rebuilt with temporary houses. At Sandeng Cemetery near Løkvell is the urn of Jan Baalsrud, a famous World War II resistance hero. He became fond of Manndalen after all the help he received in his escape from the Germans on the way to Sweden. Many locals were active in hiding him, giving him good, and getting him across the border into Sweden.  

    Storfjord

    Storfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The name comes from the Storfjorden that runs through the area, while the coat-of-arms shows three poppies that are rotated around a meeting point which represents the meeting point of the three countries Norway, Sweden, and Finland.

    The first peoples to live here were the Sami people. In the 19th century settlers from Finland and Southern Norway began to establish themselves. Sami culture has survived in parts of the municipality. In the 19th century the Laestadianism religious movement obtained a strong position, and Skibotn is still a stronghold for this movement.

    The landscape of Storfjord is characterised by alpine mountains, and the highest mountain is Vassdalsfjellet (1587m), while the most ‘famous’ mountain is Otertind.

    Skibotn

    Skibotn is a small village with a population of 538 located at the end of the Lyngen fjord and close to Kilpisjarvi in Finland. The residents of the village are either descendants of the Sami and Kven people or the Norwegian immigrants who came in the 19th century.

    Historically, Skibotn was a meeting point and market for the different ethnic groups in the area. The market still takes place today and is named ‘Skibotn markedsplass’ if you want to visit.

    Skibotn is the place in Norway that has registered the clearest days and it is one of the driest places in Norway. Because of the lack of clouds, there is an astrophysical observatory located in Skibotn.

    Kilpisjarvi

    In Skibotn you’ll pass the E8, which takes you into Finland and the town of Kilpisjarvi. Kilpisjarvi is one of the best places to see the northern lights because of its clear skies. We cover Kilpisjarvi and that drive in a separate article. 

    Balsfjord Municipality

    Balsfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms depicts a yellow plough on a red background, symbolising the importance of agriculture in the municipality. The plough also symbolises that the municipality is at the northernmost border on which grain can be grown in Norway. No other area in Troms has so much cultivated land. Agriculture is mostly based on milk and meat production and Balsfjord has the highest number of cattle, sheep, and goats among the municipalities in Troms. One of the dairies is the country’s largest goat cheese producer.

    The Sami people were the first people to inhabit the area, but around 1800 new settlers came from Finland and Southern Norway. Today, very few traces of Sami culture survive. From the 18th until the 20th century, trappers from Balsfjord were active in the Arctic, hunting in the areas around Greenland and Svalbard.

    The municipality was home to a religious group of ‘mindekirken’ or ‘freechurch dissenters’ who split from the state church in Tromsø. They were led by a seminary student, Johannes Andreas Johannessen and they established their own church, the Free Apostolic Christian Church, in Balsfjord. Bomstad and his followers were said to have protested against the Tromsø state church minister and Troms Bishop’s religious rulings, eventually leading to a riot in Tromsø. The state church members yelled at Bomstad and his dissenters to “go back to Kautokieno!”. In 1862, Bomstad led a group of colonists to America, arriving into Chicago. After that they went to the area of St. Peter, Minnesota, where they remained. Bomstad left St. Peter and became the founding father of Lake Lillian in Minnesota. After staking his original claim, Bomstad and the rest of the colonists arrived at Lake Lillian and built dugout shelters to live. Eventually they all had log cabins to live in.

    Close to Balsfjord Church are 6000-year-old rock carvings at Tennes.

    Tromsø Municipality

    Tromsø Municipality is a major centre in Northern Norway. The municipality is milder than most settlements on the same latitude dur to the effect of the westerlies reaching this far north as well as the North Atlantic Drift, a branch of the Guld Stream. The population of the entire municipality is around 71,000. A detailed overview of the city of Tromsø can be found on our travel guide. 

    Tromsø

    The final stop is in Tromsø, the largest city in Northern Norway. You can find a detailed guide to Tromsø on our travel guide page. 

    Where to Go From Here

    From Tromsø you can continue your drive south to Narvik or you can head into Finland towards Kilpisjarvi. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Tromsø to North Cape and back again”. You can view the entire drive via the link below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!