city history

History, Hurtigruten, Kristiansund
From the First People to Klippfisk: the History of Kristiansund
- March 10, 2021
- 0 comments
- by Emma
From the First People to Klippfisk: the History of Kristiansund

Kristiansund is an important place in Norway. Today it’s associated with the klippfisk (clip fish, dried and salted cod) trade that took place here. And rightly so! Thanks to klippfisk, we have Kristiansund. Still, there’s a lot more to this island city that is worth knowing before you make the trip there. The history of Kristiansund is truly fascinating.

Here’s my historical overview of Kristiansund. As always, I have relied on books and websites that provide an incredible amount of detail. You can find links to them throughout and at the bottom of this article.

In this article...

Kristiansund Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide

Kristiansund is the oldest settlement in Norway

Kristiansund wasn’t always known as Kristiansund. The name came in 1742 when King Christian VI gave the settlement a town charter. The town gets its name from him, but more on that later.

The first name of Kristiansund is Fosna. It’s generally believed that this place was one of the earliest settlements after the last Ice Age. People likely arrived around 8000BC as Kristiansund (and its surrounds) were one of the first ice-free places in Norway. Additionally, the surrounding sea had lots of food. Additionally, there was lots of stone and flint they could use as weapons and tools.

Today, the first Norwegian peoples as known as the ‘Fosna culture’. Traces of these peoples were first made in Voldvatnet (Vold Lake) in 1909. Kristiansund isn’t the only place where the Fosna people lived – it’s just where they got their name. Fosna is an umbrella term for the oldest settlements along the Norwegian coast. Additionally, similar cultures were on the coastline in Sweden and Northern Germany. The sea used to be much higher – today their settlements are 60-70m above present sea level.

You can visit Voldvatnet (also spelt Vollvatnet) today. Sadly it’s in a very crowded industrial place in Kristiansund.

Wiki (English) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fosna%E2%80%93Hensbacka_culture

Wiki (Norwegian) https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fosna-Hensbacka-kulturen

Vikings around Kristiansund

While Kristiansund itself is not mentioned in the Viking Age, we know the Vikings were in this area. Firstly, because nearby Tingvoll was a historic meeting place. ‘Ting’ is an Old Norse word that means ‘assembly’. It’s where the chieftains would meet to discuss important matters. Secondly, the nearby island of Frei is mentioned in connection to a battle that took place during the Viking Age. You can read about it on my page about driving from Oppdal to Kristiansund as we drive past the place where it happened.

Grip (Source)

Trade & Stockfish on the island of Grip

Grip is one of the places I hope to visit and write about someday, but if you go to Kristiansund it’s an island you can take a day trip to. I recommend it.

We know Kristiansund wasn’t very populated in the early years, but the island of Grip sure was. The first settlement of Grip is unknown. The island emerged from the sea sometime between 3500BC and 2500BC. This is well after the Fosna people of Kristiansund (and surrounds). There are no archaeological traces on the island, which is notoriously hostile. The very first fishermen to settle here must’ve been very brave!

There are no written documents about when Grip was first settled. However, it was likely between the 9th and the 13th centuries. The island has no arable land and no shelter from strong winds, but it does have very rich fisheries. The people who moved here wanted to be close to the fishing grounds. In the 13th century, the Hanseatic League was gaining prominence in Bergen. The export of stockfish from Lofoten was becoming big business. The fishermen likely saw an opportunity in settling on this island, which is on the journey south from Lofoten to Bergen.

Grip became a very important place. In fact, it was the largest settlement in Nordmøre. The island came under the control of the archbishop of Norway, which is common. The church was the wealthiest landowner until the Reformation.

Grip in 1833 (Source)

Grip has one of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches. Grip Stave Church is from 1470 and is the oldest building on the island today. The altarpiece represents the strong connection to the Hanseatic merchants from Europe. Having a decorated stave church on such a remote island indicates how important this island was for the merchants.

The 15th and 16th centuries were the peak period for the island, thanks to the Hanseatic trade. Many wealthy merchants settled on Grip, and the population was as much as 300, making it the largest village in the region. The Hanseatic merchants exported stockfish to Europe, and Grip was one of the production sites.

Everything came crashing down at the Reformation when in 1537 King Christian III seized all church property in Norway. From the 18th century onwards, several harsh storms hit Grip, and the fishing grounds began to fluctuate. The population came and went depending on how good fishing was. No one lives permanently on the island today. Simply put, the island didn’t have a good enough location to develop a city. Additionally, towns by the fjords were becoming more popular as timber export grew. The houses today are holiday homes. You can visit Grip via a ferry from Kristiansund.

A harbour founded amongst islands

Grip was where the action was, but there was a tiny settlement in Kristiansund. At the time it was known as Lille-Fosen based on the first peoples who lived here. The people lived on the meadow by the bay, Vågen, and this is where the city began to grow. You can see it on a map. Firstly, it’s where the Shipbuilding Museum is. Secondly, you can see how the bay is sheltered from strong winds coming in from the North Sea.

We know Grip wasn’t a great place to live. So, as trade moved away towards timber in the 17th century, merchants started looking for a natural harbour. This is the basis for commercial expansion and settlement in many places along the Norwegian coast. This is how Kristiansund began to grow. Even though Grip was important for boat traffic sailing along the coast, the significance of Lille-Fosen’s harbour between three islands increased. The small community grew from the 17th century, especially when the Dutch discovered it.

The Golden Age of the Dutch Merchants, otherwise known as Hollendertiden

The Dutch began coming to Norway in the 16th and 17th century to take all the timber. At the time, the Netherlands was the leading shipbuilding nation in Europe. To maintain this they needed a lot of timber. But not any timber. They needed long, straight trees with strong resilience to withstand harsh weather. Norway had large quantities of timber that they could buy at a reasonable price.

Fun fact: Amsterdam is literally built on Norwegian timber as timber was needed for foundations under large buildings.

The Dutch came to the area around Kristiansund. There are some rich forests on the fjords, and the harbour of Kristiansund (then Lille-Fosen) was safe and suitable for them. The harbour Vågen became a permanent mooring and gathering place for vessels that visited the district. A customs station was established in 1630 to control the timber trade.

The Dutch didn’t only come to take all the timber; they brought goods for sale. Ceramics were very important. It’s likely they also brought wine, beer and liquors to Kristiansund. The Norwegians profited heavily from this, especially the forest and sawmill owners. They didn’t only go to Kristiansund; many coastal towns in Sørlandet, Østlandet, Vestlandet and Nordmøre (the stretch of coast from Kristiansand to Kristiansund) saw Dutch merchants come here.

The Dutch period lasted until 1850.

In the 1690s, something happened that would change Kristiansund forever. A Dutchman named Jappe Ippes brought knowledge about the production of klippfisk. He received a royal privilege that gave him permission to manufacture and export klippfisk. And so, a new industry was born.

Kristiansund in the early 18th century (Source)

Klippfisk

The city founded on Klippfisk

Kristiansund is said to be founded on klippfisk. After Jappe Ippes introduced the process in the 1690s, men came to Kristiansund to learn and expand the business. One of the most prominent men to come here was the Scotsman John Ramsay. John turned it into a large company, and soon after the most enterprising of merchants in Kristiansund gained control of all stages of klippfisk production. They received the catch, processed it, and then exported it.

We should back up a moment. What is klippfisk? It was virtually unknown in Norwegian cuisine at the time. Clipfish (I’m using the Norwegian name, klippfisk) is cod that has been both salted and dried. It is a descendant of stockfish – cod that dries unsalted and is as old as the Viking times. The process of salting fish started in the 15th century but was introduced to Norway by the Dutch.

‘Klippfisk’ means ‘rock fish’ because they leave the fish out on rocks to dry.

There’s a big overview of how they make klippfisk (in English) here: https://cod.fromnorway.com/norwegian-cod/clipfish/

During the 18th century, klippfisk became a major industry. Boats came in from the sea with the salted catch. Producing klippfisk was labour intensive, and soon factories popped up all over Vågen. They wash the fish before salting it again and drying it on a ‘fish mountain’. They then press it flat for two weeks to allow the saltwater to drain. Milnbrygga and Milnbergan are important cultural monuments from this time. Today, the whole process is modern and explained in that link above.

Thanks to klippfisk, the town began to expand. Lille-Fosen built up a large fleet with shipyards and ropeways. Expertise in shipbuilding was obtained from Copenhagen. The city grew in the 18th century as klippfisk became the major industry.

Lille-Fosen becomes Kristiansund

The town got its name after King Christian VI granted it a town charter in 1742. He named it after himself, much like the Danish kings before him had named towns after themselves (see Kristiania/Oslo and Kristiansand in the south). Yes, there is often some confusion between Kristiansund and Kristiansand. Before postcodes, it was obligatory to add an N (for north) to Kristiansund and an S (for south) for Kristiansand. Some people still practice this, and when I say I’m going to Kristiansund, I have to word it like “KristianSUND (the one in the north)”.

The town charter meant expansion. Commerce in the town developed during the following decades and Kristiansund prospered. The demand for klippfisk was so great that the fishermen could not supply it all. Fishermen brought cod down from Lofoten and Finnmark to make the klippfisk. From the 1820s, salted herring also became an important export product. The city got a large fleet of sailing vessels, yachts, and galleys for traffic. The market expanded to the United States. The Danish merchant Christian Johnsen learned the principles of klippfisk trade in Bilbao and established his business in Kristiansund that exported klippfisk to Asia, South America, and Europe. Another klippfisk merchant, Nicolai H. Knudtzon, was Norway’s richest man at the end of the 19th century.

By the end of the 19th century, Kristiansund was a wealthy and prosperous town with merchant mansions, quaysides and wharves.

The Spanish Era & Eventual Collapse

Around the time the Dutch trade was ending, the Spanish began to come to Kristiansund. Spain is one of the countries that ate a lot of klippfisk, due to the rules around Catholicism and not eating meat. Additionally, the Spanish had introduced bacalao using klippfisk.

Basically, the Spanish came to Kristiansund to buy klippfisk without a middle man. The Spanish sailors introduced bacalao to the city.

Fun fact: The ships that brought klippfisk to Spain brought back soil as ballast. The area around Kristiansund had little soil and Spanish soil was used in, among other things, the towns first public cemetery.

The klippfisk business continued until 1884. A sudden fall in market prices in Spain hit the companies in Kristiansund. All klippfisk exporters, with one exception, went bankrupt.

1870: https://digitaltmuseum.no/011013318326/kristiansund-more-og-romsdal-lunds-nr-21

1880: https://digitaltmuseum.no/011013318387/panorama-av-havna-pa-innlandet-kristiansund-ca-1880-del-av-panorama-se

Kristiansund in 1911 (Source)

Kristiansund or Fosna?

When Norway became independent in 1905, many cities started discussing the possibility of changing their name back. The Danes had changed many Norwegian town names. This is most prominent in Oslo, which was named Kristiania by Christian IV and changed back shortly after World War I. In Kristiansund, it was argued that the old name Fosna should replace Kristiansund. In 1929, a vote showed overwhelmingly that 99.1% of locals didn’t want the name changed.

The 1920s & 1930s: Wealth and Collapse

At the end of the 19th century, Kristiansund was a beautiful city with many large merchant farms, boathouses and piers. The city didn’t have much of a zoning plan; instead, a house went wherever you could fit it. While this was impractical when cars were introduced, it was charming. Most of the houses were wooden.

Kristiansund in 1882: https://digitaltmuseum.no/011013318183/gatebilde-fra-torvet-kirkelandet-kristianssund-1882-i-forgrunnen-til-venstre

In 1928, 32 years before a national opera was founded in Oslo, the Norwegian Peoples Opera was founded in Kristiansund. So, opera came to Norway through Kristiansund. Today there is an opera festival that takes place every February.

Due to the limited scope of commercial activities, Kristiansund struggled to recover after the post-WWI economic collapse. Attempts in the 1930s to find new industries for Kristiansund began, but that was all halted by World War II.

The Bombing of Kristiansund (Source)

World War II

At the end of April 1940, when Nazi Germany was invading Norway, Kristiansund was subject to almost four days of continuous bombing by the German Luftwaffe. The town was left almost in ruins. Five people died, and 800 buildings were destroyed by fires that ravaged for days after the bombing. This corresponds to 28% of Norway’s total war damage to buildings during World War II.

Why did Germany bomb Kristiansund? Well, they thought the Norwegian King and the government were hiding here. They were not; they were in Molde.

Little could be rebuilt during the war, and most of the inhabitants who became homeless had to live in barracks until the end of the war. Some Swedish prefabricated houses were built in Kristiansund, and they still stand today. The street they are on is Vuggaveien.

Post-war Rebuilding

After the war, Norwegian architects got to re-designing towns that were damaged during the war. The rebuilding was initiated under the ‘Brente steders regulation’ (Burnt Places Regulation). While a zoning plan was ready as early as August 1940, work couldn’t begin until after the war.

Kristiansund got typical post-war architecture that characterises many of these ‘burnt places’. It’s best described as a sober functional style. The central parts of the city completely changed from charming, wooden districts to planned streets with concrete blocks. The building of Kirkelandet Church in 1964 marked the end of re-building.

By 1950, 68% of the city had been rebuilt.

Today, the reconstruction of Kristiansund is highlighted as one of the 20th century’s most worthy cultural environments in Norway. Furthermore, the town has the best-preserved examples of post-war architecture. The area that was rebuilt is the ‘Reconstruction City’ and has a very strong concentration of post-war houses not found elsewhere in Norway.

The main street, Kaibakken, is a great example of post-war design. It was a key element in the city’s reconstruction architecture. Many ‘burnt places’ in Norway got long, main streets like this one. They found inspiration in streets like the Champs Eylyss in Paris.

Finding new industries

After the war, Kristiansund knew it had to expand beyond klippfisk. While klippfisk is still at the heart of the city, there are new industries in Kristiansund. The food industry is still important, but Kristiansund is now a central operations and supply base for the offshore oil industry. Oil is now the main commercial basis in the town.

Modern Kristiansund's Highlights

Today 24,334 people live in Kristiansund and it has all the facilities you’d ever need. The population of Kristiansund is actually rising.

Transport connections to Kristiansund are pretty good. Besides ferries out to the surrounding area, Kristiansund has the Norwegian National Road 70 and the European route E39. The airport, Kvernberget, has connections to major cities in Norway plus some European destinations in the summer. Kristiansund is also a port on the Hurtigruten. If you take the Hurtigruten southbound (Kirkenes – Bergen), you stop in Kristiansund for one hour in the afternoon. They have excursions to the Atlantic Road.

There are plenty of primary, middle and upper secondary schools in Kristiansund. However, there no higher education facilities.

Culture & Tradition

Kristiansund has a rich cultural life with the Opera Festival, the Nordic Light International Festival of Photography, the City Festival and the Tahiti Festival. The Opera House is the oldest in Norway. It is from 1914 and is one of the few buildings to survive the World War II bombing. Another one of the few buildings to survive World War II is Nordlandet Church, which is built of stone from 1914. It dominates the skyline on the island of Nordlandet. The newest church is Kirkelandet Church, which was the final postwar building in Kristiansund.

As you may imagine, there’s also a rich food culture in Kristiansund. Besides bacalao, another main dish is blandaball. I know the name doesn’t sound great in English. It’s a fishball consisting of fish (of course!), onion and potato. The ingredients are ground and shaped. In the middle is a piece of pork, just like a Norwegian Kinder Surprise. They don’t look great, but they taste excellent.

There are plenty of museums in Kristiansund about the history of the city. The Norwegian Bacalao Museum is the most popular. The Nordmøre Museum is also located here, plus the historic Mellemvaerftet Shipyard that you can visit. Vågen – the old harbour – has many interesting cultural monuments and is a great place to visit. Some old merchant farms and wharves are still standing. The old town was somehow spared during the bombing and it gives an insight into what Kristiansund used to look like.

Lastly, the big thing people come here to see is the famous Atlantic Road – one of 18 national tourist roads in Norway. But more on that in a separate article.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this overview of Kristiansund’s history, and that it’s inspired you to visit someday!

Kristiansund Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide
History, Stavanger
The History of Stavanger, Simplified
- October 28, 2020
- 0 comments
- by Emma
The History of Stavanger, Simplified

Stavanger is one of those cities I’ve never really looked into, never mind the history of Stavanger. When my husband asked me to plan my dream Norwegian road-trip, I thought it is worth spending a couple days in Stavanger. I didn’t think the history would tell much of a story…

Until I read about it.

The history of Stavanger is fascinating. It was one of the most important bases for the Vikings. It has Norway’s oldest cathedral (take that, Nidaros). Don’t shy away from Stavanger because of its oil wealth. There’s so much going on here.

Here’s the history of Stavanger summarised, keeping in all the good bits.

In this article...

Stavanger Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide

The first peoples

The first traces of people in Stavanger comes from the islands. It’s believed that people came here from the North Sea or the land area known as Doggerland. Doggerland was located between Denmark and England. It flooded after the last Ice Age, so its peoples looked for new land, and they came to Stavanger.

During The Bronze Age (1800-500BC), wealthy chieftains emerged in Stavanger. They made trade connections with Europe. This gave them horses and bronze status symbols. They lived in fancy longhouses, and were buried in large burial mounds. Many archaeological finds from this time have been found, the richest ones on the island Austre Amøy (https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Austre_%C3%85m%C3%B8y).

Jæren, the area south of Stavanger (see the scenic route) is (and has always been) an important place for agriculture. There are traces of 200 farms from the migration period. It’s possible to visit Jernaldergården (https://am.uis.no/jernaldergarden/), a rebuilt migration-period farm.

A monument for the Battle of Hafrsfjord

The Viking Age

Stavanger had Vikings. In fact, Stavanger is one of the most important bases for the Vikings, signalled by the famous Battle of Hafrsfjord in 872. This is the battle that unified Norway as one kingdom under a ruler. The victorious Viking chief Harald Fairhair proclaimed himself King of the Norwegians. The battle, and Stavanger, is mentioned in Harald Fairhair’s Saga Heimskringla (http://heimskringla.no/wiki/Soga_um_Harald_Haarfagre), written by Snorri Sturlason.

Most importantly, there is evidence in North Jæren suggesting a powerful chieftain lived there around the Viking Age. The area is also likely a starting point for the Viking voyages to the British Isles. Most importantly, more Irish metalwork is found in this area than in any other comparable area in Europe.

Ullandhaug Iron Age Farm (source: Wikipedia)

Several finds from the Viking Age were uncovered in Stavanger. Perhaps the most famous is the Gausel Queen’s tomb on Gausel (https://web.archive.org/web/20110724175532/http://www.gausel.no/art_rlb97.htm) The grave is one of Norway’s richest woman graves from the Viking Age, and it contained a number of Irish and domestic elements. The manor house on Gausel was likely a centre of power during the Viking Age, and rich finds from boat graves on the site show that there was military and political power here.

The objects from this grave are on display in the Bergen Museum.

Christianity comes to Stavanger

The first Christian impulses came to Stavanger through trade with Europe and Great Britain during the Viking Age. In the mid-10th century, the traditional Norse burial customs stopped. Around the same time, the priests began their work.

Large stone crosses have been found throughout Stavanger municipality signalling early Christianity. One of the most known is the memorial cross for Erling Skjalgasson, who controlled the south west coast at the time. He fell in 1028 and the cross was put up soon after. The inscription on the cross shows a priest was responsible and the site may have been used as an early church.

The founding of Stavanger

Stavanger is one of Norway’s oldest cities. By the early 12th century, it was growing as an urban centre. The Stavanger bishopric was established in the 1120s, Stavanger was officially founded in connection with the construction of the Stavanger Cathedral.

Bishop Reinhald, who likely came from Winchester in England, is said to have started the construction of the Stavanger Cathedral. It was finished in 1125, and that’s when Stavanger considers its founding.

St. Mary’s Church shortly before it was torn down

The fire of 1272

A large fire in 1272 destroyed much of the inner urban area and cathedral. St. Mary’s Church was built in Stavanger shortly after this fire in a Gothic style. In 1883, a runestone of quartz was found in the foundation wall of the church. The stone says “Kjetil erected this stone after his wife Jorun Utyrmsdatter” and it is from 1000-1050. The church has since been demolished, but there’s a plaque next to Stavanger Cathedral.(https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mariakirken_i_Stavanger) Furthermore, remains under the cathedral shows that there may have been an earlier building on the site from the 800s or 1000s.

The Reformation

At the beginning of the 16th century, Stavanger was still the religious centre for southwestern Norway. The Reformation had serious effects on Stavanger as a whole.

The Reformation dealt a hard blow to the Church and Stavanger. The cathedral, bishop and canons of the monastery were large landowners at the time. Recession began with the loss of people in rural areas, and as a result the revenues of the cathedral and bishop fell dramatically due to reduced income. The King confiscated the bishop’s and monastery’s estate and property. St. Swithun’s casket (https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Svithuns_skrin) disappeared, likely sent to Copenhagen to be melted down and made into coins.

17th Century Growth

Stavanger didn’t see growth until the beginning of the 17th century. There was cultural growth in the city, especially with the Stavanger Renaissance, when famous artists from abroad came to create artworks in the city. Their most famous work was the rich redecorating of the Cathedral.(https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stavangerrenessansen)

The 17th century fires. Photo: Arne Kvitrud, 2018. (Source)

Sure, there were outbreaks of the plague in 1618 and 1629, and Stavanger did have many fires in the 17th and 18th centuries, but trade was growing with Europe and Great Britain. When the famous Kielland family moved in, the city saw a new generational change.

19th century industrialisation

Gamle Stavanger around 1910. In the background you can see a canning factory (Source)

A model of Stavanger representing the year 1800. (Source)

Industry came to Stavanger in the 19th century, and the city found new purpose. The most important industries to emerge was shipping, shipbuilding, and the fish canning industry.

A huge upswing in the precious herring fishing (what Stavanger had lived on since the 16th century) at the turn of the century led to wealth and prosperity. However, it was the low herring catches in the 1870s and 1880s that made the city realise they had to expand beyond these industries. With that, the canning industry began.

The canning industry

The old Stavanger Preserving Co. Building

Stavanger Preserving, founded in 1873, is Stavanger’s oldest canning factory. The factory didn’t just bring canning to Stavanger, but also let to the growth of other industries such as packaging factories, printing houses, box factories and so on.

Chr. Bjelland & Co AS is the largest and most famous canning factory. Founded by Christian Bjelland (1858-1927), the company initially focused on fresh fish products but from 1889 onwards started processing anchovies in a tin can. In 1893, the company picked up the production of sardines packed with a hermetic seal. (https://www.kingoscar.no/om-oss/historien-om-king-oscar/)

The company is famous for its creative packaging, often depicting Norwegian heroes such as Fridtjof Nansen. You probably recognise the Kong Oscar brand (still in shops today), for which Christian Bjelland received royal permission to use the image of Oscar II of Sweden. (https://www.norwegianamerican.com/food/king-of-the-sea/)

The customs house (Source)

Early 20th Century

At the turn of the century, Stavanger’s industry was mainly related to fisheries and shipping. Canning was still the main industry; Stavanger earned the nickname “Norway’s canned capital”.

The interwar depression hit the city hard. The population, which in 1815 reached 2500, increased to 23,500 in 1875. In 1890, the population was only 24,400. By 1920, the population had reached 50,400. (https://snl.no/Stavanger_-_historie)

Skagen in 1910 (Source)

World War II

In the early morning of the 9th of April 1940 Germany invaded Norway. Stavanger had been one of the first targets for the Germans; the day before they had anchored a freighter close to the city despite Norwegian protest. On the 9th, explosions and bomb blasts on Sola Airport and news bulletins on the radio announced the attack on Norway.

German soldier in Stavanger 1941 (Source)

German soldiers in Stavanger on Skagen (Source)

The bombardment on Sola Airport lasted an hour before 52 transport aircraft from Hamburg arrived. In a parachute assault, the transport planes dropped yellow containers containing weapons and equipment and then between ten and twelve paratroopers from each plane. This is the second-ever wartime parachute assault.

The Norwegians surrendered and 200 to 300 transport aircraft arrived during the day. At 12:30pm, the first German troops advanced on Stavanger without resistance and took over the most important buildings in the city. By the evening, several hundred soldiers and large quantities of material were now at Sola Airport.

During the war, the Germans had placed high priority on having a good railway linking the airbase at Sola with the rest of the country. The Southern Railway opened in 1944, three years later than planned.

When the war ended in 1945, there were 15,000 German soldiers in Rogaland County. Before repatriation, the Germans were required to clean up after five years of occupation. 180 German minefields lay along the coast with a total of 480,000 mines. The German Wehmacht were required to clear them. 62 Germans died and 94 were injured during the mine clearance. Mines from this period continue to be uncovered.

Immediate post-war years

Little changed for the business community in Stavanger immediately following the war. The canning industry disappeared in the 1960s; during the First World War there had been 54 canning companies with 8000 employees and accounted for 70% of the country’s canned exports.

Shipping and shipbuilding made up the bulk of industry during the 1950s and 1960s, and were very useful in the brand-new industry that was about to emerge.

Discovery of oil

You can’t talk about Stavanger without mentioning the oil industry. After the discovery of oil in the North Sea, Stavanger became the hub for the Norwegian oil sector in the North Sea. A period of hectic growth followed. More than just the general oil industry, consulting companies, local engineering, catering came to Stavanger, as well as growth in the public and private sector.

Stavanger Today

The Norwegian Petroleum Museum opened in 1999, and tourism has been growing in importance ever since. Stavanger is becoming a major Norwegian cruise port.

The University of Stavanger opened in 2005.

As of 2019/2020 the Ryfast tunnel opened; it is the world’s longest underwater tunnel.

History of Stavanger

I hope you enjoyed this overview of the history of Stavanger!

You can read a more in-depth version of this history, plus walk through Stavanger yourself, with my self-guided walking tour.

Stavanger Travel Guide

Norway Travel Guide
Bergen, History
The History of Bergen
- April 23, 2020
- 0 comments
- by Emma
One of the things I love most about Bergen is its history. I was never really a history buff until I moved here; once I started reading, I couldn’t stop! Bergen is full of history and historic buildings, and everywhere you walk you can find a historical story. It’s incredible. Before you visit Bergen, it’s worth having a quick read about its history. It will make your visit even more special.

Bergen Travel Guide

In this article...

The Royal Estate

It’s believed there has been a settlement in Bergen since the last Ice Age, but it wasn’t a known place until the royal estate Alrekstad was built at the foot of mount Ulriken and on the Store Lungegårdsvann (Lungegård Lake). The estate has roots dating back to the 400s, as evident in the burial mounds on the site, but it wasn’t until King Harald Fairhair unified Norway as one country that the estate began to grow. King Harald Fairhair built up Alrekstad as one of his various royal estates across the country. He took up residence in the 9^th century, and from this, the city began to grow. The street Årstadgeilen, which runs from the student house Alrek down to Store Lungegårdsvann (which was called Alrekstadvågen), is Bergen’s oldest street.

Moving Bergen to the Bay

King Harald Fairhair’s successors, Håkon the Good and Olav Kyrre, ruled the country from the estate. Olav Kyrre ruled the country for 26 years from Alrekstad and the estate had a very strategic position; surrounded either by water or mountains, with the Puddefjord as the only entrance to the estate. Olav Kyrre who looked out to Vågen (The bay, where Bergen city is today) and decided that he should move the estate there. Archaeological finds indicate that there was an urban settlement trading there in the 1020s, but Olav Kyrre is known as officially founding Bergen in 1070. He decided to move the royal estate to Holmen (today the Bergenhus Fortress) to better defend his new city. At Holmen, he planned the construction of the great Christ Church, the cathedral for the whole of Western Norway.

Bergen is Built

Olav Kyrre founded Bergen in 1070, making it one of Norway’s oldest cities. The original name of Bergen was Bjørgvin; the first element “bjørg” (today’s berg) means ‘mountains’, while vin means ‘new settlement where there used to be a pasture or meadow’. In short, Bjørgvin means “the green meadow among the mountains”. In the 14^th century, the name was written was “Bervin”, “Bergin” and “Berven”, and by the end of the Middle Ages it was simplified to “Bergen”. The name “Bergen” likely came from the English and Germans misunderstanding the pronunciation since ‘berg’ is a German word for mountains. The Hanseatics used the word “Bergen” from the early 1300s. But we are getting a little ahead of ourselves, let’s head back to Olav Kyrre.

The City of Churches

King Harald Fairhair’s successors, Håkon the Good and Olav Kyrre, ruled the country from the estate. Olav Kyrre ruled the country for 26 years from Alrekstad and the estate had a very strategic position; surrounded either by water or mountains, with the Puddefjord as the only entrance to the estate. Olav Kyrre who looked out to Vågen (The bay, where Bergen city is today) and decided that he should move the estate there. Archaeological finds indicate that there was an urban settlement trading there in the 1020s, but Olav Kyrre is known as officially founding Bergen in 1070. He decided to move the royal estate to Holmen (today the Bergenhus Fortress) to better defend his new city. At Holmen, he planned the construction of the great Christ Church, the cathedral for the whole of Western Norway.

The Christ Church was built as a wooden church at Holmen (remember, today it’s the Bergenhus Fortress) and it became the main cathedral for Western Norway. The remains of St. Sunniva, the patron saint of Western Norway, was moved to the Christ Church and placed at the high altar in 1170. The church was the place where Norway’s kings were crowned, dedicated and buried. The first royal coronation in the Nordic countries was Magnus Erlingsson’s (King of Norway from 1161-84) coronation. This was the most important church then. Sadly, it was levelled by the Danes in 1531 who were converting Holmen into a military fort. The gold, altar and caskets (including that of St. Sunniva) were taken to Copenhagen and melted down into coins. Nothing remains from the Christ Church today, but you can stand on the site and see a pillar commemorating the history of the church.

A church was also built at Alrekstad, the “Church of the Holy Cross”. The church was first mentioned in 1395 but was probably built in the 1600s. This church was demolished in the 1600s but you can still see the stones from the church, as they were used to build the walls along Årstadgeilen. Alrekstad itself ceased to be a royal estate when King Magnus the Lawmender in 1277 bequeathed the property to the Nonneseter Monastery.

The property was maintained until the Reformation in the 1530s (and the beginning of the Danish Union). Vinens Lunge, a Danish governor who was instrumental in forcing Norway into the Danish union in the 1530s, forced the royal estate and monastery to go abandoned. He renamed Alrekstadvågen to Lungegardsvann, after himself. By the 1900s, the royal estate and monastery were no more. I’ll explain why the Danes did this to most of Bergen’s buildings below.

Growth as Norway’s most important city

Many important buildings were built up in the 12^th and 13^th centuries. King Øystein Magnusson (King of Norway from 1103-23) built the ‘Apostle Church’ at Holmen (no longer in existence) and founded the Munkeliv Monastery at Nordnes in 1110, which was one of the largest monasteries in Scandinavia and Norway’s wealthiest during the Middle Ages.

Around 1140, the Nonnester Monastery was established at Marken (where the train station is today). More churches were built; St. Mary’s Church, Korskirken, and the Olav Church (now the Bergen Cathedral) were first built during the 12^th century. The Bergen Cathedral School was established during the same period. In 1184, King Sverre Sigurdsson (King of Norway from 1177-1202) built Sverresborg (Sverre’s Fortress) over Holmen. In the first half of the 13^th century, an additional three monasteries were built around the city. At its peak, there were over 12 churches in the inner city.

Holmen became Norway’s power centre. Before and during the civil wars of the 12^th and early 13^th centuries, it was one of the most powerful royal residences in the country. It fortified the city’s position as the Hereditary Kingdom of Norway’s main city, a position the city had until 1314 when Oslo took over as the capital. During this period, Norway was a large and powerful empire. This was also when Bergen became Northern Europe’s most important trading city.

The Trading Capital of Northern Europe

Olav Kyrre was the one who granted rights to Bergen as a market town in 1070, but during King Øystein Magnusson’s Bergen expanded rapidly. Trade to foreign countries was of the most importance, and there was a growing interest from Europe in the goods from Northern Norway, primarily the stockfish (dried cod). This gave Bergen a very special position.

When Håkon Håkonsson became the King of Norway, he made Bergen the capital and focused very much on west-oriented politics, increasing trade especially with England. He also built up Holmen as a better fortress to defend the harbour and all the trading activity by building a wall around the fortress and also built Håkonshallen around 1261 as the royal residence. His son, King Magnus the Lawmender (King of Norway from 1263-1280) built a castle close by, which in the 16^th century was converted to the Rosenkrantz Tower. He also built a third Apostle Church in Holmen, following the pattern of the Sainte-Chappelle in Paris, and inside placed a precious relic, a piece of Jesus’ crown of thorns encased in crystal. It was a gift from King Philipp III of France.

Håkon Håkonsson was the one who believed Bergen should be the centre of trade. The royal power decided that all imports and exports of goods abroad should take place in Bergen, so they could keep control of customs duties and taxes. Bergen’s role in foreign trade was further formalised when in 1294 the German merchants were banned from sailing north of Bergen, and in 1310 the ban was extended to all foreigners. Bergen was the stop for all foreigners wanting to trade, especially for goods from Northern Norway.

King Magnus the Lawmender’s son, Eirik II Magnusson (King of Norway 1280-1299) took over, and after his death, his brother, Håkon V Magnusson, Duke of Oslo, took over. As he had his residence in Oslo, the functions of the capital were moved to Oslo.

The Hanseatic League Come to Bergen

Trade of stockfish didn’t begin in the 13^th century: it’s believed that stockfish had been traded from Norway since the 1100s. But stockfish was the main reason the city became one of Northern Europe’s centres for trade. The Hanseatic League became interested in trading in Bergen. The Hanseatic League began in the 13^th century when the northern German cities (Lubeck, Bremen, Hamburg) merged into a joint trading enterprise with their jurisdiction that shared profits and losses. This was the Hanseatic League. They established an extensive trade network with over 300 locations across the Baltic and North Seas, as well as four head offices with a permanent Hanseatic settlement. These were Bergen, Bruges, London and Novgorod.

The Black Death

Their position was further enforced after the Black Death in 1349 killed at least half of Bergen’s population. The King of Norway desperately needed income in the country, as well as food and other goods from Europe, and decided that the Hanseatic League should have exclusivity to the trade of stockfish.

Each year the North Norwegian fishermen sailed to Bergen and traded their stockfish for various goods from Europe. Most products exported were stockfish, clipfish (salted dried cod, from the 17^th century), herring, other types of fish, fur products, timber, hides, skins, butter and tallow. In return, the Germans imported flour, grain, malt, salt, beer, hemp, laundry, hardware, glass, honey, wine, and other luxury goods. Both Norwegian and foreign ships dominated Bergen’s harbour. The foreigners were mostly German, Englishmen, Scots and Dutchmen, and some of them eventually settled in Bergen permanently.

By the end of the 14^th century, Bergen had established itself as the centre for trade in Norway.

Tensions with the Hanseatic League

Thing’s weren’t always peachy with the Hanseatic League, though. The Germans typically avoided paying taxes and subject themselves to their laws on many occasions. Tensions reached its peak in 1455 when the Hanseatic merchants stormed and destroyed the Munkeliv Monastery, killing both the chief and bishop of Bergen. Still, though, you can’t forget the importance of the Hanseatic League. After the Black Death, Bergen (and Norway) was incredibly poor and in desperate need of food and goods. Without this Hanseatic connection, people in Bergen, and more importantly Northern Norway, wouldn’t have been able to survive in such remote parts of the world. So, while the Hanseatic League may not have been popular in Bergen, they were loved by those in Northern Norway.

The Danish Union

After a national meeting in Copenhagen in 1536 by King Christian III, Norway became a country under Denmark. This was a political ploy by the King to increase his power while the idea of a monopoly was strong. Around the same time, the Reformation occurred. The Reformation forced Norway to adopt the Lutheran Protestant religion, and this crippled the old wealth of the Catholic religion. The Reformation opened up access to church property, and the Danes took most of the gold and items from the Norwegian churches, including Saint Sunniva’s casket from the Christ Church in Bergen and Saint Olav’s casket from Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. Norway couldn’t stop the Reformation or the union; Norway was without leadership, seriously poor, and already dependent on the Danish royal house.

After the Danish union, Danish lords began to come to the area to establish law and order, as well as diversify trade. Around this time, the Hanseatic League was lessening in importance in Europe, and many of the trading offices had closed down. The North Norwegian fishermen were still dependent on the Hanseatic League, and they continued to operate out of Bryggen for 150 years after the Hanseatic League had ended, but the Danes allowed for other countries to establish their trading warehouses. Scottish, Dutch and non-Hanseatic Germans settled in the city on the side of the harbour opposite Bryggen, and Norwegians even had their own warehouses.

Conflicts, Battles & Witches

The Hanseatic League didn’t react well to these changes, and there were often conflicts between the Danish-Norwegian authorities and the Hansa federation. The Hanseatic merchants would evacuate the city, introduce trade blockades, loot buildings, and take part in violent riots. Eventually they settled down, and many took Norwegian citizenship.

Bergen wasn’t the safest city in the 16^th and 17^th centuries. In the 1560s alone, there were five murders a year; this means 1 murder per 1,200 residents. That is higher than the rates today in New York. The town had an executioner in the court of Nordnes, and it was here that Anne Pedersdatter, one of 350 ‘witches’, were burned at the stake during this time.

The Battle of Vågen

In 1655, the city’s harbour was the site of the Battle of Vågen, when an English naval flotilla attacked a Dutch merchant and treasure fleet supported by the city’s garrison. A Dutch merchant navy, chased by English warships, sought refuge in Bergen’s natural harbour. The garrison at Bergenhus chased the English away after a bloody sea battle.

It’s worth noting that during this time Bergen was one of the largest cities in Scandinavia. In 1300, approximately 7,000 people lived in Bergen, compared to 3,000 in Nidaros (Trondheim) and 2,000 in Oslo. At the time, medium-sized cities in Europe had a population between 5,000-10,000, and Bergen was the only Norwegian city of this magnitude. In the 1600s, Bergen was the largest city in the Nordics with 15,000 inhabitants; Copenhagen had about 13,000 and Trondheim, Norway’s second-largest city, had about 5,000 inhabitants. Bergen remained the largest city in Norway until the 1830s when it was overtaken by the capital Christiania (Oslo).

Trading Dominance Ends

Until the 17^th century, Bergen had enjoyed exclusive rights to mediate trade between Northern Norway and abroad. However, the Hanseatic dominance of the city’s trade gradually declined in favour of Norwegian merchants (often of Hanseatic ancestry) and in 1753 the Hanseatic Kontor finally closed. Bergen maintained its monopoly of trade in Northern Norway until 1789 when Vardø and Hammerfest were granted town status and market rights.

20th Century Growth

In 1901, women were granted municipal voting rights in Norway, and in Bergen, a handful of female municipal representatives were elected that year.

By the early 20^th century, the export goods were mainly fish products as well as timber. Additionally, steamship companies and industry were growing along the Bergen harbour, and Bergen became the starting port for Hurtigruten. New economic life was also growing in the city, including banks and insurance companies. Urban expansion had been huge during 1877 and 1914, and Bergen’s rural district was incorporated into the city.

After World War I, Bergen was hit by economic crises with closed industrial plants, ships in storage, and so on. A lot of the merchant fleet had been damaged during the war, despite the fact Norway was neutral.

World War II

Bergen was occupied on the first day of the German invasion on 9 April 1940, after a brief fight between German ships and Norwegian coastal artillery. The Bergen section of the operation was fronted by the German cruisers Konigsberg and Cologne, with 1900 soldiers on board. The fort at Bergen was staffed with 33 officers and 279 corporals and privates. The fort shot at the ships as they sailed towards Bergen at 3:58am, and it immediately became obvious how outdated the fortress was; one of the few grenades that hit the ships did not go off. The ships did not fire back, but sent the message “stop shooting!”. By the time the locals woke up on 9 April, Nazi flags were flying on Bergen’s buildings.

Resistance groups were operating out of Bergen, including Saborg, Milorg, the Theta Group, Sivorg, the Stein-organisasjonen, and the Communist Party. Additionally, the Shetland Group also operated near Bergen.

losed industrial plants, ships in storage, and so on. A lot of the merchant fleet had been damaged during the war, despite the fact Norway was neutral.

Bombing Raids

The city was subject to some Allied bombing raids, aimed at German naval installations in the harbour, and some of these caused Norwegian civilian causalities numbering about 100. Nordnes was also damaged by Allied bombing raids, and the old theatre was destroyed. One of the most known events took place in 1944, when the city was hit by the bombing of Laksevåg, a suburb in Bergen. The British were targeting the German U-boat pen Bruno, located at the end of the harbour. 152 aircraft took part in the raid, which dropped 1,432 bombs over the area, most of which hit civilian targets. 191 civilians were killed, including 61 kids at the Holen School, which was accidentally bombed.

Bergen after the explosion

In 1944, the Dutch ship Voorbode exploded by the fortress quay with 120 tons of ammunition on board. The explosion was so powerful that 131 houses disappeared, 117 houses were condemned, 45 houses were severely damaged, and 3,500 buildings were damaged. 98 people were killed and 4,800 were injured. Important historical buildings such as Nykirken, Tollboden, the Rosenkrantz Tower and Håkonshallen were severely damaged by later restored.

Post-War Developments

In 1955, the last devastating fire took place, when 1/3 of Bryggen burnt down. The area was investigated by archaeologists, and they discovered the first settlement of Bergen. The Bryggen Museum stands there today.

Bergen Travel Guide
History, Kirkenes, World War II
The History of Kirkenes
- April 11, 2020
- 1 Comment
- by Emma
I love Kirkenes. Honestly, it’s one of those places I didn’t think much of until I got there. What makes it so special is the blend of so many cultures, religions and customs that come together to make one special town. Walking through the town, you’ll hear Norwegian, Finnish, Russian and Sami. This didn’t happen overnight; Kirkenes’ multiculturalism is from hundreds of years of history. I’ve put together my overview of the history of Kirkenes, focusing on the important events that made the town what it is today.

Kirkenes Travel Guide

The Sami Settlement Between Two Countries

The history of Kirkenes begins with its Sami settlement. The Skolt Sami, or Eastern Sami, have been using the land around Kirkenes for hundreds of years. They would come here with their reindeer flocks to graze along the Varangerfjord. In the winter, they would go to Northern Finland.

Kirkenes and surroundings was a shared Norwegian-Russian district with no strict borders. The present-day border is from 1826, and it took only a few years before the first settlers came to the area.

Border Establishment

When the borders came into place, the region was heavily affected. For example, Neiden, 45km west of Kirkenes, was cut in half. The area is the centre of the Skolt Sami culture in Norway, which is the eastern Orthodox Sami. Many of the residents lived part of the year in Russia, and the borders led them to settle on the Kola Peninsula in present-day Russia.

In Neiden you can still find St. George’s Chapel, a Russian Orthodox chapel built in 1565. In 1902, the Norwegian government funded the Neiden Chapel. The church resembles a stave church to assert the state’s sovereignty in Eastern Finnmark. If you are driving towards Inari in Lapland from Kirkenes, you will pass the church. Today there is a Skolt Sami Museum in Neiden, close to St. George’s Chapel.

Kirkenes: The Church on a Headland

In the mid-19th century, the settlement around Kirkenes decided to build a church near the fjord. Originally, the settlement had the strange name ‘Piselvnes’ (Pis River Headland). With the church, the settlement became Kirkenes (Church Headland).

Discovery of Iron Ore

Kirkenes grew thanks to the discovery of iron ore 10km south of the settlement. Around that time, very few people lived in Kirkenes. The mining company SydVaranger A/S was founded and the town grew rapidly. In the early 20th century, the population grew to 8,000. Most people came from far away. Besides Norwegian and Sami languages, Russian, Swedish, English and German were common. During World War I, iron ore from Kirkenes was in high demand. At most, 1,500 people worked in the mines. In 1908, the Hurtigruten made Kirkenes its turning point.

World War II

With its proximity to the Soviet Union, Kirkenes was valuable throughout World War II. When the Winter War broke out in Finland, Kirkenes was a safe haven. More than 1,300 refugees from Finland and the Soviet Union crossed.

Less than a year later, in July 140, German forces invaded Kirkenes. Kirkenes became one of the most important bases in Norway for the Germans.

The Murmansk Front

Up to 10,000 German soldiers were present in Kirkenes during the war. The main goal of the Germans was to block British shipments into Murmansk. Additionally, Kirkenes was important during the German invasion of the Soviet Union. When Operation Barbarossa began in 1941, Allied convoys supplied Murmansk with food and materials. It was then sent to Moscow to prevent the fall of the capital. The Germans used Kirkenes to target and attack these convoys.

Kirkenes became a target for bombing and air raids by both the Allies and the Soviets. Air-raid warnings sounded over 1,000 times and there were over 300 bombing raids. After Malta, Kirkenes was the place in Europe subject to the most intensive bombing.

The Partisans

The area around Kirkenes was also important for the partisans. Norwegians signed up to train in espionage in the Soviet Union. After returning to Norway, they set up observation posts along the Finnmark coast. From there, they reported on German shipping and military activity. Their reports were for the Soviet Union.

They lived in simple conditions and were completely isolated. During the Cold War, many of them ended up with accusations of having Communist sympathies. A memorial for 11 freedom fighters stands near Kirkenes. They helped partisans collect information about the Occupation. They were caught and sent to a POW camp in summer 1943. A couple of months later, they were killed close to the memorial spot.

The fighting between Kirkenes and Murmansk cost the lives of tens of thousands of soldiers. The terrain is difficult, and the weather made it worse. It was difficult to establish supply chains for the soldiers. Most soldiers either died in action or they froze to death in temperatures as low as -40C/F.

Over 80 prisons and POW camps were located in the area around Kirkenes, and at one point more than 7,000 Soviet prisoners of war were held in these camps.

Liberation of Kirkenes & Rebuilding

In October 1944, Finland and the Soviet Union agreed to a ceasefire. The Germans intensified their plans to retreat from Finnmark. As the Soviets began to advance on Kirkenes, the Germans began their retreat. During the retreat, the Germans used their scorched earth tactic. Anything they passed, they set on fire. Anything that was remaining in Kirkenes after all the bombing raids burned down.

Most of the population fled to the mines to hide underground. Up to 3,000 people lived in the mines – 11 babies were born there! The movie Under a Stone Sky from 1997 is about this event.

Only 13 houses were standing after the war. The church that gave the name ‘Kirkenes’ did not survive.

On the 25th of October 1944, the Soviets entered Kirkenes. The locals gave them a heroes welcome. Kirkenes was the first town in Norway liberated by the Red Army.

Learn about the history between Kirkenes and Russia by visiting the Grenseland Museum.

Video about the liberation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM5cJkXUOx4

After the liberation, the locals had to live in the ruins and cellars of bombed houses. It took some time for rebuilding to begin. The general shortage of timber meant that materials had to be imported. Many children were sent to Sweden to ‘fatten up’ with Swedish families for a couple years.

Kirkenes was rebuilt thanks to the Marshall Plan from the United States. Moreover, with the rebuilding, Kirkenes became the first town in Northern Norway to get sealed streets.

Post-War Developments

During the Cold War, Kirkenes was just one of two borders between NATO and the Soviet Union (the other was in Turkey) and for much of the 1990s it was the only border between Russia and NATO.

The mines in Kirkenes re-opened in 1952 and were incredibly important for the post-war building that was taking place all around Europe. However, the iron market fell in the 1990s and Sydvaranger mining completely shut down in 1996. The loss of their traditionally largest industry led to major changes in Kirkenes.

In the 1990s, Kirkenes underwent changes and became an important city for the Barents region. The Kirkenes Declaration was signed in 1993, and the Barents Euro-Arctic Region was formalised as a collaboration between Finland, Sweden, Norway and Northwest Russia. The core idea was ‘people to people collaboration’ across the borders, especially with Russia after the Cold War ended.

Kirkenes was finally granted town status in 1998.

Kirkenes Travel Guide
Hammerfest, History
History of Hammerfest
- April 7, 2020
- 0 comments
- by Emma
The history of Hammerfest is incredibly interesting, and I always get excited explaining it to groups. Who would’ve thought that such a small town could have such a varied and complex history? Anyway, here’s the history of Hammerfest.

Ancient Times

Many gravesites dating back to the Stone Age can be found in the area around Hammerfest. In Leirbukt a boulder was found that had a 2,500-year-old rock carving representing a boat and three moose. Near the highway is a collection of stones called Stalloen that was a Sami sacrificial site in pre-Christian times. So people have lived here for hundreds of years, but Hammerfest didn’t gain prominence until it became an official market town.

Hammerfest Gets Market Status

From ancient times Hammerfest was known as a central fishing village, and it was also central to hunting in the Arctic. The first church was built in 1684, and at around that time, the population was 60. Hammerfest lost its trading right by King Frederick V of Denmark-Norway, who wanted all trade to come out of Bergen. Because of this, Russia began to ship grain to Hammerfest as part of the Pomor Trade.

In 1789 Hammerfest was given market town rights by royal decree of Christian VII of Denmark-Norway, who was trying to establish new market towns in the Arctic after the collapse of Bergen’s trading monopoly. This makes Hammerfest, together with Vardø, the oldest town in Northern Norway.

he reason Hammerfest was granted status is due to its strategic position – Hammerfest has long been an important way station for shipping, fishing and Arctic hunting.

Throughout the 19th century, Hammerfest grew as a major trading port thanks to the Russian trade. The ladies wore the finest Paris fashions, while the men learned how to hunt in the Arctic from the Russians. Polar sea explorations began in the late 18th century, and at the beginning of the 20th century Hammerfest was regarded as the ‘Polar Capital of Norway’. Several major powers set up consulates in Hammerfest, including Russia, England, Holland, France, Hamburg and the United States.

Napoleonic Wars

Hammerfest was not spared during the Napoleonic Wars. When Denmark-Norway chose the side of France, the UK saw Hammerfest as a target due to its status as one of the main centres of commerce and transportation in the Arctic. The town was attacked on 22 July 1809 – Hammerfest’s two-cannon batteries and the British warships with a total of 32 cannons made for a surprisingly intense battle that only ended when Hammerfest ran out of gunpowder. Most of the town was able to flee, but the British raided the area over eight days, including taking the church donation box and some of the church’s silver.

Great Fire of 1890

Hammerfest was struck by a fire in 1890 which started at the bakery and wiped out almost half of the houses in town. After the fire, Hammerfest received donations and humanitarian assistance from across the world, with the biggest single donor being Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany. The Kaiser had personally visited the town several times on his yacht and had great affection for the small northern settlement.

Electric Street Lights

In 1891, Hammerfest became the first urban settlement in Northern Europe to get electrical street lights. The invention was brought by two of the town’s merchants who had seen it demonstrated at a fair in Paris.

Hammerfest in 1890

Hammerfest street in 1920

Hammerfest in 1920

Hammerfest 1938

World War II

After their victory in the Norwegian Campaign, the Germans soon fortified Hammerfest and used it as a major base. The importance of Hammerfest to the Germans increased dramatically after they invaded the Soviet Union in 1941. The occupiers installed three coastal batteries in and around Hammerfest, and the main U-boat base for Finnmark was located here. It was central to the vessels attacking the Allied supply convoys to Russia.

Hammerfest was an important base during the Second World War. The Germans occupied the town and used it as a major base after invading the Soviet Union in 1941. The main German U-boat base in the county of Finnmark was in Hammerfest, and the garrison was protected by 4,000 mines and numerous anti-aircraft guns. The garrison in Hammerfest was also protected by around 4,000 mines and numerous anti-aircraft guns.

The first time Hammerfest was bombed by the Soviets was on 14 February 1944, doing little damage to the town. The Soviets bombed a second time on 29 August 1944, and this did significantly more damage to the buildings and infrastructure, and two local transport ships were sunk.

German soldiers in Hammerfest

The population was forcibly evacuated by the Germans in the autumn of 1944 after the Soviet offensive was pushing into Norway. Hammerfest was then looted and burned to the ground by the Germans, and by 10 February 1945 the town was completely destroyed.

The only building remaining was the chapel. Mines and munitions left over from WWII are still being found and disposed of in the Hammerfest area.

The Museum of Reconstruction tells the story of World War II in Hammerfest.

Post-War Growth

Hammerfest saw massive growth in the post-war years, partly from people moving to the city after abandoning their smaller villages. The fishing industry also became important in Hammerfest.

Chapel in 1946

Liked reading about the history of Hammerfest? Click here to read about what Hammerfest is like today.

Hammerfest in 1946

Hurtigruten M/S Midnatsol in Hammerfest

Hammerfest in 1960
History, Tromsø
The History of Tromsø
- April 6, 2020
- 2 Comments
- by Emma
Tromsø is a cool city, in every sense of the word. It is the largest city in Northern Norway and is also one of the first settlements in the far north by Norwegians. Sami and Norwegian populations have lived alongside one another here for a thousand years, and in the last few centuries, the town has been built up as an important Arctic port. Here’s the history of Tromsø – everything you need to know before you go!

Early History

It’s believed that the area around Tromsø has been inhabited since the end of the Ice Age. The area around Tromsø became ice-free around 10,500 years ago. The area was first inhabited by the Sami people, and traces of Sami settlement can be found in the fjord areas around the city. At some point, Norwegians also settled in the area. Archaeological excavations have taken place at nearby Tønsvika, and they have turned up artefacts and remains of buildings that are believed to be up to 10,000 years old.

The First Settlements in Tromsø

Sami people in Tromsø. 1894 (Source)

During the Middle Ages, both Sami and Norwegian people lived here. Perhaps the earliest resident we know about is Ottar, the Viking traveller we met in Finnsnes (if travelling northbound on Hurtigruten). As mentioned in Finnsnes, Ottar lived somewhere in Troms, and one of the possibilities is near present-day Tromsø. He described himself as living “furthest to the north of all Norwegians” with areas north of this being populated by the Sami. Tromsø’s location correlates with this; Icelandic sources from the 12^th-century state that the fjord ‘Malangen’ near Tromsø was a border between the Norse and Sami settlements, though there were some living on either side of the border. Both Norse and Sami Iron Age remains have been found on Kvaløya, the neighbouring island to Tromsø.

The name Tromsø is a bit of a mystery; one theory suggests that ‘Troms’ derives from the old name of the island as several islands and rivers have the same name, which may derive from the word ‘straumr’ which means a strong stream. Another theory is that Tromsø was originally called ‘Store Tromsøya’ due to a characteristic mountain known as ‘Tromma’ (the Drum). The mountains name in Sami, Rumbbučohkka, is identical in meaning, and it is said to have been a sacred mountain for the Sami in pre-Christian times. The Sami name for the island is Romsa, which is assumed to be a loan word from Norse. The ‘ø’ at the end is an Old Norse (and present-day Danish) word for ‘island’ (today in Norway we say ‘Øy’ for island).

The first church of Tromsø

The first church was built on Tromsøya island (the island where Tromsø is today) in 1252 and was believed to be commissioned by King Håkon Håkonsson, and the first time Tromsø is mentioned in historical documents is in The Saga of Håkon Håkonsson. It was called “The Church of Saint Mary in Troms near the heathens”, which just rolls off the tongue and refers to the Sami people, who followed their religion that wasn’t exactly in line with the new Norwegian Catholic religion. At the time, it was the northernmost church in the world. King Håkon also commissioned the building of a turf rampart called Skansen to protect the island against attacks from the Karelians (from Karelia, an area between the White Sea and the Gulf of Finland) and Russia. Today no traces of the original church remain (it was a simple wooden building), though it may have been built where the present-day Tromsø Cathedral is. Skansen still exists in the form of a grass mound with a diameter of 50 metres, and it’s visible near the Polar Museum.

Skansen Today (Source)

The meeting place

While Tromsø didn’t develop into a proper town for another 500 years, it did become a settlement and meeting place. Few people did live here, and because of the church, more people from further away travelled to worship at Tromsø. Back then it was compulsory, and if you didn’t show up to church, you’d receive a fine or imprisonment. So, while Tromsø didn’t have a large population, it became a local meeting place for isolated communities in the area.

Tromsø was also an important location for Norway when considering the proximity to Russia. Originally, the border extended towards the Lyngen Alps, and the state of Novgorod in Russia was able to tax the Sami up until this point. Norway was also able to tax the Sami as far east as the Kola Peninsula. So, the Sami people had to pay taxes to both states if they lived in that area. Sometimes even the Swedes and Finns would try to claim tax from the Sami, depending on where they lived! During the next 500 years, Norway’s border with Russia and Norwegian settlement would extend east towards Varanger, near Kirkenes, making Tromsø lose its status as a ‘frontier town’.

Tromsø Begins to Emerge

While Tromsø wasn’t really a town until the 18^th century, there is evidence of people living here (besides the first church). Back then, if someone living as far north as Tromsø wanted to trade, they had to travel to Vågan in Lofoten or to Bergen in the south-west. The first trader was mentioned as coming from Tromsø in 1536 when they had travelled south to conduct trade. It’s believed it was the priests of the church that were the ones making the trip to Vågån to trade; it was common back then for the priests to also be merchants. We also know people were living here in the early 17^th century, as Tromsø (like many other places in Northern Norway) conducted witchcraft trials, and three people were burned at the stake. Then, in the early 18^th century, a new church was built to replace the old one.

Settling the north

During the 17^th century, Denmark-Norway was solidifying its claim to the northern coast of Scandinavia, and Skansen was reinforced at Tromsø. Then, despite being home to only around 80 people, in 1794 Tromsø was issued a city charter by King Christian VII. This coincided with the abolition of Bergen’s centuries-old monopoly on the trade of cod. Bergen lost its trading privileges in 1789, and the people in Northern Norway were now free to trade with whoever they wanted. Hammerfest and Vardø were the first towns to get city status, but Norway wanted a third city in the North, and a debate had arisen as to where it would be. Candidates were Gibostad near Finnsnes and Gausvik near Harstad, but in the end, Tromsø was the city that won.

The development and growth of Tromsø wasn’t immediate; in 1807 the population was only 100. And even though a new church had been completed in 1803, the present-day Elverhøy Church (it was relocated in 1861) and in 1804 the Diocese of Hålogaland was created and headquartered in Tromsø. The town was met with hard times during the Napoleonic Wars; in 1812 the town was attacked by English forces. In the Battle of Pølsehamna, the small Danish-Norwegian garrison set itself so strongly to counter that the English didn’t dare to enter the city; the day they left, the 2^nd of August 1812, is still celebrated as an important anniversary in the Danish Naval Defence.

The new Tromsø church after it was completed in 1803

The church was moved in 1864 to become the Elverhøy Church

Eventually, Tromsø began to develop as a large city. This is largely thanks to two things: The Pomor Trade and Arctic Hunting.

The Pomor Trade

During the 19^th century, the Pomor Trade with Russia became increasingly popular. Trade with Russia had begun in 1725, while Bergen still had the trading monopoly, and Tromsø (before it got city rights) was the starting point for the trading routes eastwards and became one of the most important Pomor Trade Centres in the north. Pomor Trade continued until the Russian Revolution in 1917.

Arctic Hunting

Arctic hunting started around 1820 with expeditions to Svalbard, Greenland, and even as far west as Canada. By 1850, Tromsø had developed into a major centre of Arctic hunting, overtaking the former centre Hammerfest. Tromsø had direct trading links with Arkhangelsk, Bordeaux, and Central Europe. The trade of Arctic goods, whether it be hides, skins, bones or food, accelerated the development of the town and the entire harbour area on the east side of the island was developed as a continuous urban area of piers and residential houses with large gardens. Some of these buildings remain, especially the mansions on Sjøgata and Skippergata.

Tromsø also became an important departure point from which many Arctic expeditions originated. Explorers like Roald Amundsen, Umberto Nobile and Fritjof Nansen made use of the know-how in Tromsø on the conditions in the Arctic and often recruited their crews in the city.

Tromsø Grows into a City

Just 10 years after Arctic hunting had started, Tromsø’s population had risen from a little over 100 to 1,200. Land on the island was sold off so the locals could develop country houses and farmsteads; present-day Hope, Nøysomheden, Charlottenlund and Sommerlyst are the names of such old country estates. Sjøgata (Sea Street) was developed as the main street, while Storgata (Big Street) was a back alley with more modern buildings.

The increase in trade with other countries, the influx of foreigners and visiting summer tourists introduced new trends among local people. Furniture from Europe, fashions, entertainment and socialising helped develop the town into a cultural hub. Travelling associations brought literature, music, the circus and theatre to the town. Special clubs formed for French, German and Russian language speakers.

A travel guide from 1841 says:

‘No other place in the far north has impressed as us much as Tromsø. The attraction is not its large population but rather to experience its bustling commerce, its lively company, and its rapid rise; to put it another way – the young and invigorating life that is emerging in this booming town.’

Paris of the North

Tromsø quickly developed the nickname ‘The Paris of the North’. How this nickname came to be is uncertain, but it is generally assumed that people in Tromsø appeared to be far more sophisticated than what visitors from the south were expecting. The women were often dressed in the finest clothing, the locals had very good formation and language skills, and there was a strong culture in Tromsø. All of this was thanks to the large amount of money that was coming in from the fish and Arctic trade. Also, the people in Tromsø were trading directly with Europe and not going through a trade house such as the one in Oslo. Several places in Tromsø have French names because of these strong trading links.

The commercial and cultural development of Tromsø continued, and in 1838 the postal ship ‘Prinds Gustav’ began sailing to Tromsø during the summer route from Trondheim. In 1848, the teacher training college moved from Trondenes (near Harstad) to Tromsø with part of its mission being to educate Sami scholars – there was a quote ensuring the Sami gained access. The same year, the Tromsø Shipyard was established. In 1847, a local ferry began sailing from Tromsø to the outlying villages. Tromsø Cathedral was built in 1861 and Tromsø Museum opened in 1872; the same year the first railway planning committee met to discuss building a rail network. Tromsø still does not have a rail network. Mack Brewery was founded in 1877.

Tromsø in the 1930s. Source: DigitaltMuseum

By 1890, the population had increased to 6,000. In 1893, the first Hurtigruten ship called at Tromsø. At the start of the 1900s, better quays and breakwaters were built, providing safer facilities for fishing boats and steamships. By this time, almost all of Tromsø island had been cleared for housing or building, so neighbouring municipalities were swallowed up to become Tromsø. Today, Tromsø is one of the largest municipalities in Norway by area.

World War II

When Germany invaded Norway in 1940, Tromsø briefly served as the seat of the Norwegian Government while King Haakon VII and the government hide out here. They left Tromsø with the cruiser Devonshire on 7 June 1940 and would not return to Norway after the war.

The Battleship Tirpitz

Tirpitz as it can be seen today

Tromsø was an important base for the Germans throughout the war, and the city escaped the war unscathed. The most dramatic event to happen in Tromsø throughout the war involves the Tirpitz. The German Battleship Tirpitz was sunk by RAF Avro Lancaster during Operation Catechism off Tromsøya Island on 12 November 1944, killing close to 1,000 German soldiers. The Tirpitz was the largest German battleship ever built. It still lies off the coast and is visible during low tide.

Prisoners of War

“South Point”, which was established in 1941 for political prisoners. The first prisoners were male Jews from Tromsø. There were around 120 men in the camp. The second camp was “Krøkebaersletta”, which was a camp for political prisoners who had participated in military resistance. The prisoners here were subject to terrible treatment. On 20 October 1943, eight prisoners were sentenced to death and executed. The number of prisoners at any one time was around 250, though 2,500 prisoners passed through here on their way to larger camps. The third camp was “Isrenna”, established in 1942 for Russian prisoners of war. After the war, both Krøkebaersletta and Isrenna were used as prison camps for traitors and members of the Gestapo.

During the forced evacuation of Northern Norway, which was being devastated due to the Germans ‘scorched earth’ policy, Tromsø received 7381 evacuees from the area. Additionally, 6000 Germans came to Tromsø after leaving Finland; this brought the total number of German soldiers in Tromsø at the end of the ear to 14,000. At the end of the war, more refugees from Northern Norway went to Tromsø and stayed there; resulting in a huge boom in the population.

Post-War Growth

Expansion after World War II was rapid. More municipalities merged with Tromsø, tripling the population. Overall, population growth has been strong compared to many places in the north, with the population growing by more than 1,000 every year even today.

The rapid growth led to many areas being overlooked, and Tromsø became a run-down city. Many materials and money were being sent elsewhere in Northern Norway to try and rebuild destroyed towns. This lack in care led to two major fires in Tromsø in 1948 and 1969, so while Tromsø was one of the towns saved from destruction during the war, many of the pre-war buildings were destroyed by fire.

Throughout the 1960s Tromsø got many new structures. In 1960, the Tromsdalen bridge was built, connecting the island to the mainland; in 1961, the cable car opened. The Tromsø Airport and famous Arctic Cathedral were completed in 1964, and then in 1972, the University of Tromsø was opened. The local teachers college and the museum were incorporated into the University. Today, the University is the third largest in the country.

In the 1990s, an underwater bridge was built connecting the island to the mainland. The Norwegian Polar Institute was moved to Tromsø from Oslo in 1998.
Central Norway, History, Hurtigruten, Trondheim
The History of Trondheim: Vikings, Christianity & World War II
- April 6, 2020
- 1 Comment
- by Emma
Trondheim is one of Norway’s most important historic cities. The history of Trondheim is like reading from the Norse sagas. It was inhabited during the Viking Age and was chosen as the place where the Vikings, who were raised in England under Catholicism, would land in an attempt to Christianise the pagan Norwegians. There are two Olavs accredited with this – who you’ll learn about below – and today one of them is buried under Nidaros Cathedral, one of Norway’s most important churches. After suffering fire after fire, the city became less important, but today it is noted for its prestigious University and fascinating town centre.

Here’s my summary of the history of Trondheim: everything you need to know before you go.

The pre-history of Trondheim

The history of Trondheim begins thousands of years ago. People have lived here since the BCs, as evidenced by the 300+ rock carvings that have been found in the area. They depict not just the animals of the region (elk, red deer, halibut, salmon, etc), but also show people gathering, hunting and fishing.

Before Trondheim was officially founded, the area was known as Øretinget. An Øretinget is an assembly for representatives from each reason, who would meet to award legal judgements and pass laws. It eventually developed into an assembly where the King of Norway was proclaimed, and it’s believed that Harald Fairhair was proclaimed at this assembly.

The early years & the battle for Christianity

Olav Tryggvason

Trondheim was officially founded in the year 997 by Olav Tryggvason (960s-1000), a Viking King who had returned from England to Christianise Norway. He established Nidaros, as the town was called, on the edge of the river Nid, which twists around the peninsula before emptying into the fjord.

Olav’s goal was to resist and Christianise the pagans, which was the main religion at the time. While he did find some success, he was killed in the Battle of Svolder in 1000.

Olav Haraldsson (Source: Galleri Straume)

Olav Haraldsson (Saint Olav or Olav the Holy)

Shortly after Olav Tryggvason’s death, another Olav decided to become king of Norway. A descendent of the first King Harald Fairhair, Olav Haraldsson had been a Viking since the age of 12, travelling throughout Northern Europe. He returned to Norway in 1015 to establish himself as the King in Trondheim. To cement this title, he built himself a wooden church, St. Clemens, shortly after.

Olav II also wanted to Christianise Norway, but he had a slightly different approach than Olav I. His approach was to travel to the small villages, meet the locals, and tell them to become Christian or he’ll kill them. This brutal plan was effective; once a village knew that Olav II was visiting, they’d quickly build a Christian church over their old pagan worshipping site. Many of these churches are stave churches: Catholic wooden churches with pagan motifs on them.

Eventually, and perhaps unsurprisingly, Olav II’s methods made some wealthy pagans angry. Olav was forced to flee to Russia in 1028 but decided to come back to Trondheim the following year. As he was making his return, he was met by the angry pagans in Stiklestad (95km/51 miles away), who killed him in the
Battle of Stiklestad in 1030.

Battle of Stiklestad 1030

Olav becomes a saint

After he died, his followers secretly took Olav’s body to Trondheim and buried him somewhere near the present-day Nidaros Cathedral. Strange things began to happen. There was an eclipse of the sun, and a spring came from his grave that was believed to have healing powers. Some of Olav’s blood was placed in a blind man’s eye and the man’s vision was restored.

Several months after this death, Olav’s body was exhumed and his hair, beard and nails were seen to have grown. By this point, Olav had a large following – the Cult of Olav – and this following not only unified the country, but it also Christianised it. While Olav wasn’t around to see it, he had succeeded in Christianising Norway. His casket was placed into Kristkirken (Christ Church) in 1070 and Olav was canonised as the Saint of Norway.

Kristkirken over the layout of the present-day Nidaros Cathedral

The evolution of Nidaros Cathedral – Kristkirken is in the red section

Trondheim becomes a religious centre

Trondheim quickly developed as a major religious centre, furthered by the fact that it became the episcopal seat in 1080, and pilgrims from Europe started coming to visit St. Olav’s Casket at Kristkirken, which later became known as Nidaros Cathedral. The church was continuously extended throughout the 12th century, and officially completed in 1320 (it burned down a few years later, though, kickstarting centuries of rebuilding and burning down). The Archbishops Palace was constructed in 1152 as the religious and political centre of the Kingdom of Norway, which not only included Norway but also the Faroe Islands, Shetland, Isle of Man, Iceland and Greenland.

The Norwegian Civil War

A major civil war was fought in Norway throughout most of the 12th century over the rightful heir to the throne. King Sverre Sigurdsson (1150-1202), who believed he was the rightful heir to the throne, built himself a castle and fortress just outside Trondheim called Zion – today it is known as Sverresborg and is part of the open-air museum (click here to view their website). The civil war ended when King Håkon Håkonsson (1204-63) became king in 1217 at the age of 13. He moved his seat to Bergen, making it the new capital of Norway. Trondheim began a period of stagnation.

The West Front of Nidaros Cathedral in 1666

The Reformation & Danish Union

While Norway had not been a truly independent country since 1380 due to the Kalmar Union, it was the Reformation in 1536/7 that reconfirmed Norway as a Danish territory under Danish rule. Norway, a catholic country at the time, was forced to convert to the Lutheran (Protestant) religion after the Danish king adopted the doctrine of Lutheran. Many old Catholic churches were torn down to make way for new Lutheran churches, and many historic buildings were left untouched, eventually deteriorating into ruin. As Nidaros Cathedral and the Archbishops were symbols of the Catholic religion, the Danes prevented any repairs done to the cathedral after a major fire, and the Palace was turned into a military base. The last Catholic bishop of Trondheim, Olav Engelbrektsson, fled to the Netherlands. Olav’s casket, as well as most items in the church, were taken by the Danes and melted to be made into coins.

Kristiansten Fort was built to defend Trondheim from the Swedes

The many, many fights with Sweden

The 16th and 17th century in Scandinavian history is typically characterised by the many battles between Denmark/Norway and Sweden. As Trondheim is close to the Swedish border, the town became involved in some of these battles. In the Seven-Year War, which lasted between 1563 and 1570, the Swedish Army entered Trondheim and laid siege to the town for two months. During a new war in the years 1567/58 that was won by Sweden, the country of Trøndelag was ceded to the Swedes, though it was only Swedish territory for several months. The Norwegians built Kristiansten Fortress to defend themselves against the Swedes.

A fire in Bakklandet in the 1960s

Fires of Trondheim

You’ll notice as you walk around that Trondheim has lots of timber buildings. Due to the proximity of forests, the main building material has always been timber. This, of course, means that Trondheim has also caught fire many times. The first major fire was in 1295 when much of the town and the Episcopal Palace was destroyed. In 1328, just 8 years after the 150-year construction of Nidaros Cathedral ended, the church burned down. It had been richly decorated and was regarded as Norway’s finest and most holy palace. A complete restoration was carried out, but a new fire in 1432 caused considerable damage. The town was destroyed by fire in 1531, but at this time the rebuilding was greatly limited. After the Reformation in 1537, the church now lacked importance. Parts of the church were left without a roof and stood in ruins for almost 400 years.

The town plan after the fire of 1681 by Cicignon

The most famous fire is the fire of 1681 when the town once again burned down. This caused the citizens to rethink how they built the town, and the town planner General John Caspar de Cicignon (1625-1696) from Luxembourg was called to Trondheim to redesign the city with fire prevention in mind. He adopted a grid system with wide, open streets and a quadratic layout. It is regarded as the finest example of a Baroque town plan in Norway and is the layout you’ll see today.

Still, it wasn’t fireproof. In 1708, the town was ravaged by fire. Nidaros Cathedral was destroyed – only the stone walls remained. Restoration of the church was only just completed when it was again struck by lightning in 1719. The church was rebuilt once again, but this time in a very simple design; for example, a simple pyramid-shaped roof was constructed over the old tower and the octagonal chancel was crowned by a dome in the Baroque style.

Trondheim in 1898

Several more fires occurred between 1788 and 1842. The street plans changed slightly to try and stop fire jumping, and in 1845 a new rule was introduced that said all buildings had to be built in stone. The locals were surprisingly stubborn about this and insisted on building in wood. They wanted Trondheim to always be a ‘timber town’. After a fire in 1899, they decided that maybe Trondheim should be built in stone. A brick law was enforced.

19th Century Industrial Growth

Trondheim has always been a major industrial centre for timber, mining and brickworks. The first brick factory opened in the 1200s (and yet it took them over 600 years to decide to use it as a building material), and timber factories existed along the river. The modern industry arrived in the 19th century with the construction of a textiles factory near the river in 1843. Between 1842 and 1870 there was considerable economic development in Trondheim; several businesses that used manual labour became industrialised. The towns commercial and industrial enterprises followed the international trends, with considerable development around the time of the First World War and the depression between the wars.

World War II

Like the other major cities in Norway, Trondheim was occupied on the 9th of April 1940 by German forces. The heavy cruiser ‘Admiral Hipper’ and four destroyers were anchored in the harbour, and 1,700 German troops oversaw the occupation. Trondheim was of strategic importance to the Germans; it was considered the ‘gateway’ to Northern Norway and the Trondheimsfjord provided a haven for German ships preparing to attack the Allied convoys heading for Murmansk. The Germans built U-boat pens along the harbour, a major defence fort at Munkholmen, and coastal forts along the fjord.

Resistance groups and martial law

A strong resistance group was active in Trondheim, working with the British via secret radio transmission and distributing illegal newspapers. Their acts of resistance eventually angered the German Reichskommissar Josef Terboven, who decided to implement martial law in the city. He arrived in Trondheim on the 5th of October 1942, and by the 6th of October there were signed all over the city notifying citizens of the ‘martial law’. The conditions for martial law included a curfew from 8pm to 5am, a general prohibition against the use of railroads for transport, and a prohibition against gatherings. Violations were to be punished with no less than 10 years’ imprisonment at hard labour camps or with capital punishment. 13,000 police officers were mobilised to enforce the law.

Terboven announced to the civilians from the town square that 10 prominent citizens of Trondheim had been executed as ‘atonement sacrifices’. A well-known concentration camp was situated just north of Trondheim, called Falstad, and nearby was the Falstadskogen (Falstad Woods), which were known as a killing ground. When Terboven made the announcement, eight of the citizens hadn’t been executed yet. Rather, they were being held at the Gestapo Headquarters at Misjonhotellet and had heard the announcement of their deaths. They were taken to Falstadskogen, blindfolded, and placed two by two in a mass grave. They were shot at short range by a firing squad of 10.

In the following two days, an additional 24 residents were arrested and executed. A dozen or so Jewish men were arrested, 1,434 properties were raided, and 93 Norwegian individuals were arrested. Everyone killed or arrested had some connection to the Norwegian resistance or was just a well-liked member of society whose arrest was to ‘send a message’. Martial law was lifted on the 12th of October once Terboven was confident he had stopped the resistance. However, these measures did little to stop the Norwegians. Rather, they only grew stronger, more organised and coordinated.

A memorial at Falstadskogen

The Jewish population of Trondheim

There was intense persecution of the Trondheim Jewish population that began at the local synagogue before spreading throughout the rest of the country. The Trondheim Synagogue was confiscated in April 1942, and in autumn that year Ernst Flesch, a ruthless anti-Semite, had become the commander of the Security Service for Trondheim. By summer 1942, he had taken over almost all business owned by Jews and had arrested the owners. The arrested and executed another four Jews for listening and spreading Norwegian news from London. In October 1942, the remaining Jews were arrested – this was the first city in the country to carry out the mass arrests. By November 1942, all Jews in Trondheim had been arrested and deported, where they would all be killed at a concentration camp, or they were imprisoned in a Norwegian concentration camp. Only a few managed to escape to Sweden.

NTNU Trondheim

Trondheim Today

Today, Trondheim is Norway’s third-largest city and is often referred to as the ‘technology capital’ of the country. This can be attributed to the large number of start-up companies that can be found in the city, but also because of the university the Norwegian University of Science and Technology (NTNU). Universities came to Norway late due to the Danish union (if you wanted an education back then, you had to go to Copenhagen). The first college in Trondheim was founded in 1760 as the ‘Det. Kgl. Norske Videnskabers Selskab’, or the Royal Scientific Society. The Norwegian Technical College opened in 1910. Throughout the 20th century, colleges for Arts and Sciences and Medicine opened.

NTNU University

In 1996, all of these colleges were brought together and became NTNU. NTNU has a professional basis in education and research, social sciences, humanistic sciences, scientific objects, medicine, architecture and art.

There are approximately 36,000 university or college students in Trondheim. The students are particularly known for their volunteer work, and the student society is run by more than 1,200 volunteers. NTNU is also known for closely collaborating with industries and has some of the closest industrial links in the world. NTNU is famous for its research, and there are 4,500 scientific staff and at any time the university is running more than 2000 research projects. In 2017, NTNU was ranked first in the world for universities with corporate links. Many of its Master and PhD programmes are in English, and NTNU offers a free Norwegian language course online if you are interested in learning.

In 2014, Professors May-Britt Moser and Edvard Moser at NTNU were awarded the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine for their discoveries of how the brain creates a map of space around us to navigate complex medical surroundings. They share the award with John O’Keefe of the University College London.

Scientific Institutions

St. Olav’s Hospital is one of the major university hospitals in the country. The hospital has 8,69 employees and treats 725,000 patients every year. It specialises in back injuries and neuroscience.

There are several scientific organisations in Trondheim. One of them is SINTEF, the largest independent research organisation in Scandinavia. Of their 1,800 employees, 1,300 of them are located in Trondheim. The Geological Survey of Norway is also located in Trondheim and is a major geoscientific institution with 220 employees of which 70% are scientists.

Trondheim is regarded as the cross-country ski capital of Norway due to the fact its produced so many Olympians. The Granåsen Ski Centre is a major Nordic skiing venue that regularly hosts competitions. Trondheim is also known for its football club Rosenborg, which has won the Norwegian Premier League 26 times between 1967 and 2018 and has reached the UEFA Champions League group stage 12 times.
History, Oslo, Oslo & the East
The History of Oslo
- April 6, 2020
- 1 Comment
- by Emma
The history of Oslo is truly fascinating. While today the city is very modern and there may seem like there are few traces of its beginnings, there are hints of history everywhere.

Here’s my summarised history of Oslo!

Humble Beginnings

Oslo is one of the oldest places in Norway; the area around the Oslofjord has been inhabited since the last ice age due to its rich agricultural land. The oldest settlements date back to the Stone Age and the Bronze Age. Historically the area was called Viken, which means ‘the bay’.

It’s believed that the Oslofjord was an important place for the Vikings; this is mostly because three Viking ships have been found in the area. These are now on display at the Viking Ship Museum. The first church, St. Clements Church (Klemenskirken), was built in Oslo around the year 1000. Sadly the church is no more; its ruins can be seen in the Middelalderparken just outside the city centre.

Medieval Oslo. Akershus is on the bottom left. The hilly area to the right is Ekeberg.

Oslo wasn’t officially founded until 1049. It was founded by King Harald Hardråde (Harald Hardruler), but it was his son, Olav Kyrre (Olav the Peaceful, who also founded Bergen), who set up a cathedral and a bishopric. Oslo wasn’t where it is today; rather it was founded closer to the region around Ekeberg and where the Barcode is today (the region called Gamle Oslo (Old Oslo) highlights this).

Mariakirken Oslo

Throughout the 12th century, cathedrals and a cathedral school were built around the city. This includes Mariakirken, which would’ve looked similar to the church in Bergen. Sadly, like St. Clements, only its ruins remain.

At the time it was Trondheim that was the capital of Norway. In 1219, the capital moved to Bergen. It wasn’t until 1299 that Oslo got its title as the Capital of Norway.

The Capital of Norway

In 1299, King Håkon V decided to move from Bergen to Oslo, and with that, the capital moved. He cemented the city’s status as the capital when he had the Akershus Fortress built in 1299.

Everything changed in 1350 when the Black Plague came to Oslo. Around half of the town’s population passed away, and the churches began to lose income. This is around the time that the Hanseatic merchants came in to take over trade, and the churches fell into ruins.

The entire country had lost a lot during the Plague, and because of that, it was forced into a Danish union.

Danish Union, Fires, and Kristiania

The Kalmar Union put the three Scandinavian countries together in 1380, and during this time trade in Oslo was dominated by Hanseatic merchants and the town had little going on.

In 1536, the Danish and Norwegian union became a formal coalition, and the capital proper was now Copenhagen – though Oslo remained a symbolic capital. Due to the Reformation, in which Norway converted from Catholic to Lutheran, many of the old churches (most of which were already deteriorated) were destroyed by the Danes to make way for Lutheran churches. There are many ruins of churches in Gamle Oslo (the old town) today.

In 1624, the city changed forever. A massive fire burned for three days, destroying most of the city as it was built in timber. After the fire, King Christian IV of Denmark decided that, rather than rebuilt the old city, he was going to move it and build a whole new city and name it after himself. So, he did. And so Kristiania was born. At the time, it was spelt Christiania, but from 1877 it was spelt Kristiania.

A statue of Christian IV pointing to where he wants Christiania

Inspired by contemporary city planning, Kristiania was laid out in a grid close to Akershus Castle. The architecture of the time was Renaissance, and there are glimpses of this style still visible in the old centre of Kristiania. Akershus Fortress was also modernised and converted into a renaissance castle by Christian IV. All citizens and shops were strongly encouraged to move their businesses and homes to the new city, and they did. Around this time, the lower classes started to settle a little out of the city, near Vaterland and Grønland near the Old Oslo area.

Oslo’s first town hall from 1641

The area of Oslo today called Kvadraturen (the quadrature) is where King Christian IV moved the town. The oldest buildings in Oslo can be found here, including Kristiania’s first town hall and the oldest restaurant, Cafe Engebret.

It wasn’t until the 18th century that Kristiania started to see true growth when the (constant) wars between Denmark and Sweden boosted the town as a major shipbuilding and trading port.

Christiania in 1814. The fortress is visible out on the peninsula.

19th Century Capital & Growth

In 1814, when Norway left the Danish union and was forced into a personal union with Sweden, Kristiania was re-instated as the capital. The 19th century was a period of massive growth for Kristiania; with its status back, several state institutions were established including the Bank of Norway (1828), the Royal Palace (1848) and the Storting (1866). In 1859, many of the surrounding areas were incorporated into Kristiania – including Old Oslo, which at the time was just called Oslo.

Karl Johans Gate 1890

The population increased dramatically in the 19th century – from 10,000 in 1814 to 230,000 in 1900. Finally, Kristiania overtook Bergen in terms of population. There was a spectacular building boom during the end of the 19th century, and many new apartments were built around the city centre.

Akerselva 19th century

Industry also rose dramatically in the 19th century, especially along the Aker River (Akerselva). Various industries were here, but they were primarily timber and fabrics. This is due to the number of waterfalls on the river, which gave power to numerous industry companies in Oslo.

Downtown Oslo (Stortorvet) in 1926

Oslo returns

The city and municipality used the name Kristiania until 1 January 1925, when the name was changed back to Oslo. The reason the name was changed is because, after Norway became completely independent in 1905, the locals thought it was inappropriate to have the capital named after a Danish king.

World War II

During the Second World War, Oslo (like the rest of Norway) was occupied by German forces. Oslo was one of the first cities in Norway to be occupied; on 9 April 1940 the German ships made their way down the Oslofjord, and while the fortress Oscarsborg was able to sink a major warship and delay the occupation long enough for the King and government to escape, the city was occupied later that day.

Parliament with a German sign & Nazi flag flying

During the war, the main headquarters for the Germans was Victoria Terrasse, a beautiful building close to the Royal Palace. It was in this building that officers held the interrogation centre for all prisoners in Oslo, and the place became synonymous with torture and abuse. On occasion, prisoners jumped out of windows to their death while waiting to be interrogated. Allied bombers tried to destroy it twice, but missed and hit civilian targets.

Karl Johans Gate

All ships carrying Jews left for mainland Europe from the Oslofjord, and the German Army executed members of the Norwegian resistance groups at Akershus Fortress. After the war, eight Norwegian traitors who had been tried for war crimes were executed at the fortress, including Vidkun Quisling.

Modern Oslo

Oslo 1971

After the war, Oslo’s City Hall was finished in an area that had previously been a slum. This was also where Aker Brygge was revitalised between 1982 and 1998 and built up as a modern suburb.

Oslo’s postwar absorption of surrounding towns and suburbs gives us the sprawling city we see today. However, despite this growth, it wasn’t until the discovery of the Ekofisk oil field on Norway’s Continental shelf, that the economy of Oslo changed for good. Oslo transformed into one of the world’s wealthiest and liveable cities.

Oslo is the most ethnically diverse city in Norway, with 40% of the population first or second-generation immigrant.

Terrorist attack 2011

In 2011, Oslo was hit by a terrorist attack carried out by a right-wing extremist. A bomb was detonated in the Government quarter, damaging several buildings including the building that houses the Office of the Prime Minister. Eight people were killed in the attack. The terrorist then disguised as a police officer and killed 69 Labour party-affiliated activists on the island Utøya, about 45 minutes out of the city.

Resources on the History of Oslo

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city history

From the First People to Klippfisk: the History of Kristiansund

In this article...

Kristiansund is the oldest settlement in Norway

Vikings around Kristiansund

Trade & Stockfish on the island of Grip

A harbour founded amongst islands

The Golden Age of the Dutch Merchants, otherwise known as Hollendertiden

The city founded on Klippfisk

Lille-Fosen becomes Kristiansund

The Spanish Era & Eventual Collapse

Kristiansund or Fosna?

The 1920s & 1930s: Wealth and Collapse

World War II

Post-war Rebuilding

Finding new industries

Modern Kristiansund's Highlights

Culture & Tradition

The History of Stavanger, Simplified

In this article...

The first peoples

The Viking Age

Christianity comes to Stavanger

The founding of Stavanger

The fire of 1272

The Reformation

17th Century Growth

19th century industrialisation

The canning industry

Early 20th Century

World War II

Immediate post-war years

Discovery of oil

Stavanger Today

History of Stavanger

In this article...

The Royal Estate

Moving Bergen to the Bay

Bergen is Built

The City of Churches

Growth as Norway’s most important city

The Trading Capital of Northern Europe

The Hanseatic League Come to Bergen

The Black Death

Tensions with the Hanseatic League

The Danish Union

Conflicts, Battles & Witches

Trading Dominance Ends

20th Century Growth

World War II

Bombing Raids

Post-War Developments

The Sami Settlement Between Two Countries

Border Establishment

Kirkenes: The Church on a Headland

Discovery of Iron Ore

World War II

The Murmansk Front

The Partisans

Liberation of Kirkenes & Rebuilding

Post-War Developments

Ancient Times

Hammerfest Gets Market Status

Napoleonic Wars

Great Fire of 1890

Electric Street Lights

World War II

Post-War Growth

Early History

The First Settlements in Tromsø

The first church of Tromsø

The meeting place

Tromsø Begins to Emerge

Settling the north

The Pomor Trade

Arctic Hunting

Tromsø Grows into a City

Paris of the North

World War II