Walking Guides

  • Stavanger, Walking Guides

    Stavanger City Centre & Gamle Stavanger – Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Stavanger City Centre & Gamle Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Follow my Stavanger self-guided walking tour! Stavanger is Norway’s fourth-largest city and home to the oil industry. While much of the city has a modern feel, Stavanger is in fact one of the oldest cities in Norway. It was a known settlement during the Viking Age, and Stavanger Cathedral is regarded as the oldest and best-preserved cathedral in Norway. This walk will take you past the major highlights of the city as well as through the beautiful Gamle Stavanger neighbourhood.

    Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    I offer downloadable versions of my self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins at the main square. 

    Torget

    Torget is the central point of Stavanger and therefore a fitting place to start a walking tour. Throughout Stavanger’s history, the square has been an important gathering place and market place.

    Until the 11th century, this place was a bay in the middle of a sandy beach. It was eventually filled in and extended. The square was probably owned by the bishop, who had a pier (Bispebrygga) built here and sand embankments were laid out. In the mid-13th century, a long quay was built over the lower part of the square. It’s not exactly known when the quay was redeveloped into a square, but it was first mentioned around the 16th century as a square. After being developed as a square, Torget also became the place where public executions were carried out, with neck irons being placed in the centre of the square.

    The market here was very popular. The farmers sold handicraft products, fruit, vegetables, spice, butter, cake, hides, cod liver oil, honey, and cheese. Old items were also sold, like a flea market.

    During World War II, the Nazis took over the square and built shelters here. The western part of the square was cut off with large fences and barbed wire.

    Today Torget has a new fish market building and several restaurants. More houses originally stood here, but over the last century they were removed. All the old warehouses are now restaurants and bars.

    In the square you’ll see a statue of Alexander Kielland, one of the most well-known people from Stavanger.

    Byparken

    Byparken is Stavanger’s central park. Until the 1960s, the park was owned by the Kongsgård property, and the part closest to the cathedral used to be a cemetery. It’s believed there was a lavish garden here as far back as 1299.

    Kongsgård Royal Estate

    Kongsgård is the site of a historic royal residence.

    The first buildings on the site are believed to have been constructed around the year 1100, roughly the same time Stavanger Cathedral was built. The original buildings were wooden, but they were replaced with brick buildings at the beginning of the 13th century. The first written mention of the bishop’s residence was in 1297, and several rooms are mentioned as well as a farm and surrounding walls. The walls are believed to have been 2 metres thick, and parts can be seen on the side facing Haakon VII’s gate.

    After the Reformation, the King took over the building and the function changed and it became an official residence for the sheriff and other county officials. There was an attempt to burn down the building by pirates in 1539, and by 1601 the complex was described as dilapidated. 

    Today it is a school

    Stavanger Cathedral

    Stavanger Cathedral is the oldest cathedral in Norway and is also the cathedral that has retained its medieval appearance to the greatest extent and the only one that has been in continuous use since the 14th century.

    Stavanger was founded in 1125, and this is also the time the cathedral was built. The cathedral is dedicated to Saint Swithun (his relic – an arm – was popular with pilgrims) and is designed in a Norman style, with basket-handle Romanesque arches. After a fire badly damaged the church in the 13th century, a new chancel was added in the Gothic style.

    The cathedral became the seat of a Roman Catholic bishop after the Diocese of Stavanger was established. From the Reformation and a few years later, the diocese was governed from Bergen.

    During a renovation in the 1860s, the cathedral’s exterior and interior were considerably altered. The stone walls were plastered and the cathedral lost much of its medieval appearance. In the mid-20th century, a major restoration aimed to reverse the changes.

    Stavanger Cathedral is currently under a major restoration project that will last until 2025.

    The Ruins of St. Mary's Church

    This is the site where St. Mary’s Church stood from the 12th century until the 19th century, when it was torn down.

    It is uncertain why St. Mary’s Church stood so close to Stavanger Cathedral. One theory is that is a replacement cathedral from the great fire of 1272. Above all, it took a long time to rebuild the cathedral, so it was necessary to have a temporary house of worship. Another theory is that it was a separate independent church. The church may be from the 12th century. Around that time churches called St. Mary’s went up in Nidaros, Bergen, Oslo and Tønsberg.


    However, the church fell into disrepair after the Reformation in 1537. It became a hangout for the towns drunkards. In 1565, the town’s bourgeoisie took over the church and converted into a town hall and parliament. The city’s gallows stood outside. A prison was built in the church and developed a bad reputation for great suffering.


    The church later became the local fire station as well (I guess the tower’s make for a good lookout!). Less than 20 years later, the fire brigade and prison moved out. A city engineer proposed that the building is antique and thus should be torn down. The city demolished the church in 1883.

    It’s a little tricky to see the ruins, but if you look at the picture above, you’ll see they’ve put some picnic benches there!

    Laugmannsgata

    Laugmannsgata is one of the city’s oldest streets, linking Domkirkeplassen to the street Arneageren. The name comes from two lawyers who lived at the Bishop’s Estate in the 18th century.

    Arneageren

    Arneageren is a public square. It is home to the culture house, which was built in 1987. The culture house has various galleries, cafes, kiosks, a cinema, and an art school for kids.

    The Film Theatre building is next to the culture house and is a little older (it’s the distinctive brown building). Dating to 1924, the building is designed in the neoclassical style. It is regarded as one of the most important representatives of this style in Rogaland county. The Film Theatre was rebuilt in connection with the culture house in 1988. The square is well-known in Stavanger and throughout the week there are political and religious organisations distributing brochures. There is also regular music from groups and street musicians.

    Søregata

    Søregata runs along the border of the old Arnegård farm. While the street itself is old, the exact age is unknown. In the 19th century, this street was known for its many eateries and bars. Many workers and sailors lived along this street and there was a liquor distillery at the end. The cafes would display the dish of the day in the window. It’s not like the Asian restaurants that have plastic displays in the window; these cafes would use real food. By the end of the day, the food had attracted many flies.

    Kirkegata

    Kirkegata is the first ever pedestrian street in Norway – announced in 1960. The name means ‘Church Street’, so the street leads to Stavanger Cathedral. If you turn left you’ll be at Stavanger Cathedral in two blocks.


    It’s believed that Kirkegata was a street from before the year 1100. It’s had different names throughout history, including Urgata and Holmengata. Urgata refers to a natural clock. One theory is that building materials for Stavanger Cathedral were stored here, and that a wrecked stone was tipped down and turned into a clock. Holmen refers to the flat edge near the water – today it’s the name of the northern part of Stavanger inner city. After the fire of 1860, the street got the name Kirkegata.

    Steinkargata

    This is an old street that linked the two main streets Østervåg with Kirkegata. It previously had the name “The Street to Østervåg”, indicating its purpose. Today’s name refers to a stone vessel used to moor boats. A wharf called “Laksebrygga” (Salmon Wharf) used to be here. Until the 1850s, fishermen docked here. The 1860 fire destroyed both sides of the street, so everything was rebuilt after that.

    Østervåg

    We’ve made it to Østervåg! This is the city’s main street. The name roughly means ‘East Bay’ and refers to the stretch of sea nearby. Østervåg was the natural harbour for scheduled shipping traffic and the fishing fleet. The bay area used to have shipyards.

    Østervåg is one of the most important streets from the Middle Ages. The property Arnegård was here, and Østevåg ran through it. The street linked the bishop’s pier (Bispebrygga) to the Stavanger Cathedral. Østervåg is first mentioned in 1297 in relation to this pier. It’s believed that this was the medieval town centre.


    The area we are on is very narrow, but it gradually becomes wider. This marks where the 1860 fire spread. The narrower part of the street was untouched, whereas the wider part of the street had burned down and was regulated and levelled after the fire. The fire started at the corner of Østervåg and Breigata.

    Norwegian Oil Museum

    The Norwegian Oil Museum is an excellent place to learn about the Norwegian oil industry. The museum covers the entirety of Norway’s oil journey. It stars from early exploration to discovery, foreign help and current environmental concerns. The museum has a lot of information boards, photographs, footage, and objects used to help develop the oil platforms.

    Click here to view the museum website. 

    My article about the oil museum

    Øvre Holmegate

    Øvre Holmegate – better known as ‘Fargegaten’ (The Colourful Street) – has become one of the most famous streets in Stavanger. It started in 2005, when hairdresser Tom Kjørsvik wanted to create a vibrant environment so more people would visit his salon. The houses were to be painted in a ‘Miami Vice’ colour scheme as proposed by the Scottish artist Craig Flannagan. It’s not about the individual colours, but rather everything working together.

    Some of the building owners did not approve of the final design. Some owners didn’t want a pink house, for example, while some specifically wanted it. After each change was agreed on, the street was designed to create harmony. Only one building on the street chose not to participate.

    Valberget

    Valberget Viewpoint is the site of the city’s old fortress. The date of the fortress is unknown. The land was likely given to Stavanger during the Nordic Seven Years’ War in 1567. The city likely needed defence for the sea after the Swedes were trying to take Bergen from the sea in 1564.
    Above all, fires have destroyed the fortress many times. There’s not much of the original fortress remaining. Its current appearance is from the 19th century. They had 12 12-pound cannons circling the tower. In 1840, they discarded the cannons when four men went on trial for refusing to shoot with them. They were acquired because the cannons were proven to be life threatening. Today the cannons are decorations on the viewpoint.


    The tower is not original – it was built in 1850 and is a lookout tower.

    Skagen

    Skagen is a street that runs parallel along the bay, Vågen, linking Torget to Holmen. It is one of the city’s liveliest streets with many shops and nightclubs. But it is also home to some of Stavanger’s oldest buildings.


    That is to say, the name Skagen is common all throughout Scandinavia and refers to a headland. It’s believed the street was here in the Middle Ages and is largely unchanged from the 13th century. Archaeological finds show that there were buildings here in the Middle Ages.


    You are in the upper part of Skagen, making our way down to the lower and older part.
    The Clarion Hotel is where a cannery used to be. The cannery ran for three generations before being demolished in 1964 and replaced with the hotel. For example, Chr. Bjelland & Co, is one of Stavanger’s most famous canneries (see the history section at the start of this guide).


    As you walk along Skagen, you’ll notice many references to shipbuilding, merchants, and steamships (dampskip). It indicates what exactly this street was used for.

    Skagen 18

    Skagen 18 is one of the city’s oldest and most famous buildings. It is from after the 1684 fire, though a building stood here before then. The oldest known inhabitants are Sidsel Olsdatter Cruys and Albert Albertsen Libert. They aren’t famous Norwegians; just residents who have been remembered in history thanks to their house being the longest lasting. They lived here between 1687 and 1700. Moreover, inside the building are rosemaling decorations from before 1710. Merchant and shipowner Ole Smith Plow is the next owner; establishing his business in 1768.

    Gamle Stavanger

    The oldest and best-preserved neighbourhood in Stavanger is Gamle Stavanger (‘Old Stavanger’). Here you’ll find around 200 wooden houses that date back to the 18th and 19th centuries. The neighbourhood was built up as a result of rich herring fishing, shipping and shipbuilding, and Stavanger had a huge population growth as a result. This was primarily a working class neighbourhood.

    After World War II, city planners wanted to rebuild the area with modern, concrete structures to have even more housing in the city. After the war, the houses of Gamle Stavanger were run down and seen as an undesirable place to live. Thanks to a campaign led by architect Einar Heden, the city council voted to conserve the area in 1956. Since then, many of the buildings have been restored.

    When walking through Gamle Stavanger, this guide doesn’t go house-by-house as limited information is available on the specific houses. Rather, this guide will lead you on the prettiest route around the neighbourhood. 

    Stavanger Maritime Museum

    The Stavanger Maritime Museum is located in two former warehouses. The museum itself covers the maritime history of Stavanger, including replica offices and stores through to archaeological finds, paintings of ships, model boats, and historic photos.   

    Click here to view their website. 

    Øvre Strandgate

    Øvre Strandgate is where the best wooden houses are preserved in Stavanger. Make your way down the street, admiring the old wooden houses along the way.

    Norwegian Canning Museum

    Located in an old sardine factory, this museum tells the story of the industry that saved Stavanger from economic collapse at the end of the 19th century. Canning remained Stavanger’s main source of employment until as late as 1960; in the 1920s there were 70 canneries in the city, and the last one closed down in 1983.

    Click here to view their website. 

    Øvre Strandgate 90

    This is a restored residential house. The house is built in the Empire style and is an excellent example of what a residential building looked like in the 19th century. The house was built in 1836 by blacksmith Peder Pedersen Thilo, originally from Voss. The same family lived in the house for over four generations. The house was given to the Stavanger Museum in 1997 and opened to the public in 2000.

    Villa Blidensol

    Villa Blidensol is Stavanger’s oldest building, after the Cathedral and the Bishop’s Chapel.


    Blidensol is first mentioned on a map in 1726. It is next mentioned in a written source in 1737. The building itself is thought to be from 1777, though some believe it is older – it’s hard to know what’s original, what was moved here, etc. The villa is built in an Empire style that was probably added in the period 1805-1820. Much of the interior is unchanged.


    The first known owner is Laurits Andersen Smith (1680-1758). He bought several smaller plots and merged them into a large estate. The name isn’t very Norwegian; that is because he came from Scotland. Laurits is the son of Andrew Smith, who did the wood carvings inside Stavanger Cathedral. They owned the home until 1825. From then on, the large estate was continuously subdivided into smaller plots.

    When lawyer Christen Iben Minos bought the house in the mid-1980s, it was quite decayed. He and his wife extensively restored and modernised the house, though keeping it in an old style. Today the villa is privately owned and it’s a little tricky to see.

    Stavanger Tourist Office/Street Art

    This walk ends outside the Stavanger Tourist Office, where you’ll also find this impressive street artwork showing the relationship between Stavanger and Houston, Texas, thanks to the oil industry.

    Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Enjoy your walk around Stavanger! If you want a self-guided walk with more details, be sure to buy my downloadable Stavanger self-guided walking tour. 

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Longyearbyen, Svalbard, Walking Guides

    Longyearbyen Town Centre – Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Longyearbyen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Follow my Longyearbyen self-guided walking tour for the best overview of the town! Located at 78 degrees north, Longyearbyen is the northernmost settlement in the world. With a population of around 2,500 people, the town is a thriving area with cool restaurants, bars, shops and day-trips around the archipelago. However, Longyearbyen wasn’t always this comfortable and modern town. For most of the town’s 100 year history, it was a harsh, hostile and difficult place to live. Most of the town is owned by the mining company that established it, and even today it feels like a company town. This walk around Longyearbyen covers the modern centre but also the historic past of the town.

    Longyearbyen Travel Guide
    Svalbard Travel Guide

    Longyearbyen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Longyearbyen Travel Guide
    Svalbard Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    I offer downloadable versions of my self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Longyearbyen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins at the Radisson Blu Polar Hotel. 

    Radisson Blu Polar Hotel

    This walk begins at the Radisson Blu Hotel. The hotel was constructed here using buildings from the 1994 Lillehammer Winter Olympics.

    Kullungen Daycare

    The daycare opened in 1997. The building has a pile foundation, where wooden piles are permanently frozen in the permafrost and the building is built on top. On Svalbard this is a common way for the foundations of the buildings. Elsewhere the building is clad with lath paneling, treated with iron vitriol and the roof is covered with lath roofing felt. The fence around the kindergarten is to protect children from polar bears. Kids in Norway typically start daycare around the age of 1.

    Iconic Longyearbyen Houses

    These houses are from the 1970s and are nicknamed “The Indian Village”. They are all on a road called Hilmar Rekstens Vei, named after the main chairman and shareholder of SNSK from the war up to 1962.

    After more mines opened in the 1950s and 1960s, more homes for the families were required and with better standards. The town began to spread down into the valley. The first houses were built here in the 1970s. The neighbourhood is called “Lia”.

    The Blåmyra dormitories were built in 1981. They were intended to provide the miners with better living conditions than the two-man rooms in Nybyen.

    Lompen Senteret

    Lompen Senteret was built in 1985, but first it was a cloakroom, café and laundry for the miners. The work clothes for the miners are called lomps, and here the coal-black mining buses were cleaned and changed into clean clothes. It was converted into a shopping mall in 1997 and is today the northernmost shopping mall in the world. It has eateries, a pub, café, wellness centre, outdoor clothes, and souvenirs.

    Be sure to try the local chocolate brand Fruene. The coffee here is also fantastic!

    The Svalbard Store

    The complex to your left is the Svalbard Store. Inside you’ll find ‘Nordpolet’ (the liquor store – a play on the Norwegian name ‘Vinmonopolet’) and a Coop grocery store. There are also some nice souvenirs in here. Coop is the only grocery store on Svalbard.

    In Svalbard the residents are limited to a certain quota of alcohol. Every month, residents can buy up to two bottles of spirits or up to four bottles of wine, or up to 24 cans of beer. All residents have a purchase permit card. People who do not live on Svalbard can buy as much as they want – just show a travel document in the form of a plane ticket when buying alcohol.

    Mine 1a

    High up on the hill you can see the cableway system of the first mines to be constructed on Svalbard. The cableway system carried the coal from the mine to the pier, where it would be loaded onto boats for export.

    Apartment Complex

    Most people on Svalbard live in apartments, and here you can see some typical apartment buildings. Note that they resemble worker’s barracks, referencing Longyearbyen’s past as a mining town. Here you can also see the pipes above the ground; as there is permafrost here, nothing can be buried into the ground.

    Huset

    Off in the distance to the left is Huset. Huset was built in 1951 and is referred to as the ‘heart of Longyearbyen’. In the building was a cinema, a school, an exercise room and some apartments. In recent years, the building has been transformed into one of the most high-end restaurant experiences in Longyearbyen.

    Longyearbyen Old Town Building Remains

    The posts you see sticking up from the ground are where buildings stood before World War II. Most of these buildings were barracks for the miners, but they were destroyed when the Nazis bombed Longyearbyen. Today the site is under cultural heritage protection.

    John Longyear Memorial

    On your left, next to the post remains, you’ll see a plaque commemorating John Longyear, the founder of Longyearbyen.

    Svalbard Church

    The first church was built on Svalbard in 1921, and Paster Frederick Thorleif Østenstad served as the first clergyman. The mining company built the church and owned it; they also paid for the pastor’s travel and accommodation. When Longyearbyen was being evacuated during World War II, pastor Just Phillip Christian Kruse took the altar silver, baptismal bowl, baptismal jug and church book with him and went to Scotland. The original church burned down in 1943. The remains are visible beneath the red barracks, Formannhuset, located south of Longyearbyen nursery school.

    The current Svalbard Church was built in 1958. The items that were saved have been placed inside the church. The church is non-denominational and open 24/7.

    The Cableway System

    You can see rows of trestles leading from it in several directions. All of Longyearbyen’s mines (except 3 and 4) are high up on the steep mountainside. There was nowhere to store coal, and it had to be stored because the fjord ice prevents it from being shipped for around 6 months of the year. John Longyear chose a cableway as a means of transport.

    The first cableway ran from the American Mine, Mine 1a, to the depot and loading dock. In summer the ships were loaded by cableway from the mines and using a four-track railway from the winter depot. There was only one cableway until SNSK built the new Mine, Mine 2a. The cableway crossed the valley via six tall steel trestles. It was destroyed during 1941.

    The name of the wooden structure to the right is ‘Kurven’ – it is where the cableway system curves up to the depot, which you’ll see soon.

    This is the structure where all the cableways from the different mines met. From here, the coal would be transported down to the pier. The man who ran Taubanesentralen had a lot of power – he could decide would mine could send its coal down to the depot and dock. The structure was like a railway station – here the wagons would be sent off in different directions once they got clearance. From here coal was also taken to the power station. The cableways ran all year round day and night and were only interrupted by maintenance. At Christmas the ‘Christmas Bucket’ made the rounds; it was decorated with motifs and lights.

    The current structure you see was built in 1957.

    Bell Tower & Flag Pole

    The flagpole is where Longyearbyen’s celebrations took place. It was first used on the 14th of August 1925, when Svalbard became part of the Kingdom of Norway. This is where the May Day and Constitution Day parades end. The bell tower next to it is from 1949. The bell was cast in SNSK’s mechanical workshop. The idea came from the miners bell in Røros, a famous mining town on the mainland and now a UNESCO World Heritage area. The bell was also used as a church bell until 1958.

    Here you will also see a memorial for those who lost their lives during world War II.

    The Governor's Residence

    The building was completed in 1950. The buildings are in a square around a courtyard with a large gate. The two story is referred to as a ‘palace’ by the locals in Svalbard. The three story concrete tower looks like it belongs to a castle, which was probably the intention. The small extension close to the storehouse is the only surviving part of the residence from 1934. It has been used as a jail and is currently an outbuilding. Outside the courtyard is the governors garage, one of the few garages for private vehicles in Longyearbyen.

    Shortly after passing the governor’s residence, you’ll pass a white stone building on your right – this is another cold food storage area.

    Coal Power Plant

    This is the main power plant for Longyearbyen and is powered by coal, which is fitting considering the close proximity to the mines. Today’s power station is the third generation of coal power stations in Longyearbyen. Approximately one third of the coal produced in Longyearbyen goes to the power station, which produces hot water, heat and electricity for the town. All the buildings in Longyearbyen are heated by waterborne heat. The red and white building is a food storage building.

    Circle K & Toyota Dealership

    You’re now passing by the northernmost petrol station in the world, and (of course), the northernmost Toyota Dealership in the world!

    Svalbard University Centre & Museum

    A large number of people living in Svalbard are students who have come to study here. The Svalbard University Centre works closely with the Arctic University in Tromsø.

    In the same building complex as the university is the Svalbard Museum. This is a fantastic museum that covers the history of Svalbard, from the early days of hunters and explorers through to the future of Svalbard. It also includes exhibitions on the flora and fauna found on the archipelago.

    View the museum website here. 

    Cafe Huskies

    Cafe Huskies is a brand-new cafe in Longyearbyen that is home to several huskies who will join you on your visit. The coffee here is excellent and there’s a charming little gift shop.

    Visit their website here. 

    Longyearbyen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Enjoy your walk around Longyearbyen! If you want a self-guided walk with more details, be sure to buy my downloadable Longyearbyen self-guided walking tour. 

    Longyearbyen Travel Guide
    Svalbard Travel Guide
  • Copenhagen, Walking Guides

    Christianshavn, Christian IV’s Merchant Town – Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Christianshavn - Christian IV's Merchant City - Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Christianshavn is the hipster cool district of Copenhagen. It makes it perfect for a self-guided walking tour!

    The neighbourhood – located just south of the city – was established in the 17th century by the infamous King Christian IV, who was heavily inspired by Dutch merchant towns such as Amsterdam. Christianshavn quickly became a rough sailors neighbourhood, and in the 1970s the hippies took over the Christiania commune and made it their town. 

    Today Christianshavn is becoming a high-end alternative neighbourhood in the heart of Copenhagen. It is still a great place to explore, thanks to its many preserved buildings. 

    In this article...

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    I offer downloadable versions of my self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Christianshavn Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins on the Christianshavn side of the Knippelsbro Bridge, which begins by Christiansborg Palace on its northern side. 

    Torvegade

    This is the main thoroughfare through Christianshavn, and some of the buildings here are very historic.

    Look at numbers 22, 24, 27 and 30. They are all from the 18th century and are listed buildings.

    Strandgade

    The street originally ran along the waterfront and is on the original plans of Christianshavn from 1617. The plots where not popular here, so the King had to give them away for free to wealthy citizens on the condition they build good commerce houses.

    The Danish East India Company and the Danish West India Company established their headquarters here.

    In 1738, Denmark’s first dry dock opened here.

    Strandgade 44

    This building is is Irgrens Gård. It was built on one of the original plots of land for Christianshavn and gets its name from Joachim Irgrens, who took over the property in 1664. Here there was the king’s copper works company, with the mining operations in Røros, Norway. The income was so great that at one point the company was able to lend the King money. The King did not pay Irgrens back, but instead gave him all of Northern Norway!

    Wildersgade

    This street is named after the merchant and shipyard owner, Carl Wilder, who in the 18th century ran a shipyard at Wilders Plads. This street was a slightly nicer street to be on than Strandgade, and many distinguished trading houses were here.

    Sankt Annæ Gade

    The street has been here since Christianshavn was founded and is named after Saint Anna, who was the mother of the Virgin Mary. There used to be a row of poor houses here, but they have since disappeared.

    Dronningensgade

    Dronningensgade has a number of interesting brick buildings.

    Number 67 was a girls school. The school was established in 1799 but moved to this building in 1912. The girls school was for girls aged between five and twelve, and the aim was to “educate the girls minds and make them good at handicrafts”. The school admitted students from both noble and bourgeois families, but that the principle that no distinction was made. French was taught, but not English, which the school believed was something the parents themselves had to ensure that the children learned. The school also admitted boys from 1976 onwards.

    The Church of Our Saviour

    The church of Christianshavn was supposed to be a couple blocks further west at Christianshavns Torv, but that never happened. This church was completed in 1696. The architect was Lambert van Haven, who designed the church in the Dutch Baroque style. It is built in the shape of a cross, which is not common in Denmark.

    Originally the church had no spire. Lambert died before the church was put into use, and the twisted spire was not part of his original plan. It was added to the church in 1750 and was designed by Laurids de Thurah. The spiral twist is probably inspired by the Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza church in Rome. It is said that Thurah threw himself from the tower because the spire twisted the wrong way in relation to the King’s wish, but that is just a myth.

    For a small fee, you can take the stairs all the way to the top of the spire!

    You can read more about visiting the Church of Our Saviour by clicking here. 

    Christiania

    If you were to turn left at Prinsessegade, you would reach the free-town Christiania. Christiania is a neighbourhood lived in by Copenhagen’s hippy and artists. Since its establishment by squatters in 1971, the area has drawn non-conformists from across the globe, attracted by the concept of collective business, workshops and communal living. Unfortunately Christiania is best-known for Pusher Street, where hash is openly traded despite it being very illegal in Denmark. There have been recent attempts to shut down Pusher Street in 2024, and it’s not the best place to visit in Christiania. Explore the neighbourhood, beautiful park areas, and see the wonderful DIY homes. There’s also great and cheap eateries here as well as regular concerts.

    Before its development, Christiania was an abandoned military camp. Some of the buildings in there are still standing 200-300 years later. Christiania also has some preserved ramparts. This walk is now going to go to some of the preserved ramparts out of the free town.

    Amager Port

    This was one of the four gates that brought you into Copenhagen. It is not known what the first gate looked like, but a gate was known from 1724 and it used to be closed at night. Next to the gate was a porter’s residence, which is the old building you can see.

    Across the street is the street Amager Gade, which was part of Christianshavn’s working class. In 1867, 1,000 people lived on the street – or 7% of the entire population. The street used to be much longer, but has since been cut up with Ved Volden. A large part of the streets houses are old and represent tenement barracks in a rich contrast to the merchant farms you saw earlier.

    Christianshavn's Ramparts

    The rampart you see here is the best-preserved part of Copenhagen’s fortifications from the 17th century.

    The facility was an integral part of the plan of the new district of Christianshavn. The ramparts were closed in 1909 and now it’s a park area.

    Sofiegade

    The street is named after Queen Sofie of Mecklenburg, who was Christian IV’s mother. There were many taverns on this street. Number 15 was Christianshavn Bathing Institution in 1909. It dates from a time when many residents did not have a bath in their apartment. There were separate entrances for men and women. Number 10 was a brandy distillery with cows on the first floor. The building is still a bathhouse today.

    Christiania's Torv

    This is the main square for Christianshavn. Originally the prison and Children’s house. The idea was to house people on the street and train them to be craftsmen to create a state production of cloth. Stray children were also taken in. It was described as a building for “deformed, disobedient and orphaned children”, but later also took thieves, beggars and women. It developed into something of a forced labour facility that produced clothing for the military.

    Conditions for the inmates were poor. The food served was considered unfit for human consumption.

    Children were no longer kept there from 1790 onwards, and it became more of a prison. In 1817, the prisoner’s rioted and burned down the building. It was rebuilt but demolished in 1928.

    The bridge you’ll cross back to Copenhagen is called Børnehusbroen – the Children’s House Bridge – and commemorates this building. Follow Torvegade back to Christiansborg, or from here you can take the metro.

    Christianshavn Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Enjoy your walk around Christianshavn! If you want a self-guided walk with more details, be sure to buy my downloadable Christianshavn self-guided walking tour. 

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide
  • Vardø, Walking Guides

    Explore Vardø on a Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Norway's Easternmost City: Vardø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Welcome to our Vardø self-guided walking tour! Located in the far north-eastern part of Norway, Vardø is a fascinating but harsh little city. Situated on an island just off the mainland, the city is often exposed to bad weather coming in from the Barents Sea. Still, there’s something charming about this community. 

    Vardø is also a historic city. There has been a settlement here for hundreds, if not thousands, of years, and the Vardøhus Fortress has a history going back to the 13th century. Vardø emerged as an important fishing harbour and trading site with the Pomors from Russia. 

    This walk is designed to give you the highlights of Vardø. The vast majority of readers will likely be arriving with the coastal ferry, so time is very limited and you probably only have time to visit the fortress. For everyone, this guide is worth following. Vardø is a small city, but there’s little information around the buildings. 

    For a historic overview of Vardø, visit our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Enjoy this Vardø self-guided walking tour!

    In this article...

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Vardø is located on the E75, also known as the Varanger Tourist Road. You can find my guide to the E76 by clicking the link below. 

    The E75 Highway
    VARDØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vardø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    Coming soon

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Vardø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins outside Vardø Hotel. 

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Nordpol Kro

    Nordpol Kro is a fitting place to start. It is Northern Norway’s oldest inn – dating back to the mid-19th century. At the turn of the 20th century, it was the only decent accommodation available in Eastern Finnmark. The building is built of Russian timber from Archangelsk, which was the hub of the Pomor Trade that Vardø also participated in. 

    The Brodtkorb family were the original innkeepers of Vardø. 

    The inn has an interesting link to Fritjof Nansen – it was the last place he stayed before he set off on the Fram 2 expedition towards the North Pole in 1889. 

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Hurtigruten Pier

    Vardø is a port of call for Norway’s coastal ferry. The northbound ferry docks at around 3am, while the southbound ferry comes in around 4pm. 

    On the pier you’ll find signs advertising excursions out to the bird cliffs. This part of Finnmark is famous for its bird watching, but in order to see some of the more unique species, you need to take an excursion out to the bird cliffs. 

    Around the pier area is a lot of street art. Street art has become relatively famous in Vardø thanks to a number of highly regarded artworks.

    A lot of the artworks are from 2012, when the street artist Pøbel from Stavanger was allowed to invite 11 artists from around the world to participate in a festival where they would have free reign to paint on the abandoned buildings of Vardø. This project was done in collaboration with the North Norwegian Art Centre. The festival was known as “Komafest” as it was an attempt to breathe life back into the city. Several other street artists were invited to paint on the buildings too. On the Codfather photo above, you can see the name of the festival. 

    The text “Laks er viktig for Norge” means “Salmon is important for Norway”. 

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk
    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Vardøhus Fortress

    The first fortification in Vardø was built in the first half of the 14th century. Northern Norway was then in conflict with the Russian Republic of Novgorod. The facility was a square walled castle and inside the fortified area were a number of buildings. The original fortress was located on the other side of the city, however.

    In 1599, King Christian IV made a voyage to Finnmark. After a peace treaty between Russia and Sweden four years earlier, the Swedes had been given the right to demand taxes from the Sami, and soon they claimed the area of Finnmark was theirs. King Christian IV visited Vardø to asset Danish-Norwegian sovereignty over the region. When he visited the fortress, he described it as “the wretched fort and wooden church that our barber thought was a reindeer”. The fortress was subsequently rebuilt.

    The current fort was completed in 1738. Within the fortress walls there are a number of buildings from before 1825. Today it is under the command of the Norwegian Armed Forces and is open during the day. It is possible to enter for a small fee.

    During World War II, the fortress was in battle and saved the coastal radio station from being bombed. This was the last place in Norway to surrender to the Nazis before five years of occupation. The Nazis were chased out of Vardø in October 1944 when the area was liberated by the Soviets.

    Vardøhus Fortress is regarded as the northernmost fortress in the world.

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Vardø Chapel

    Vardø Chapel is one of the few buildings to survive the destruction during World War II. I tis from 1908 and there is very little information about its early use. It was restored in the 1990s and is incredibly popular with weddings and baptisms.

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Steilneset Memorial

    The monument here is to reflect on the tragic burning of women accused of witchcraft in Vardø. Nearly 90 victims were burned here. Vardø was one of the worst areas in Europe when it comes to the witch hunts, and this is partly to do with the Sami population but also Vardø’s location at what feels like the end of the world.

    The monument is a 100m long hall designed by the French-American artist Louise Bourgeoise and the Swiss architect Peter Zumthor. It is open 24/7 and free to enter.

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    When you enter, you will see banners on each side with the name of one of the victims. The text (in Norwegian) describes what they were accused of. By the door is a small booklet with English translations. 

    VARDØ Witchcraft Trials

    Tunnel to the Mainland & Butterfly Shape

    After leaving Steilneset, make your way down to the tunnel that connects the island to the mainland. The tunnel is a subsea tunnel and is 2,892 metres long and the deepest point is 88 metres below sea level. The tunnel opened in 1983.

    You will notice that Vardø is shaped like a butterfly – two islands connected by a small piece of land. You are now going to cross that piece of land onto the other island. There is a modern building on this piece of land – it is the culture house. 

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Vardø Church

    Vardø Church was completed in 1958. It is the fourth church to stand in Vardø, though not necessarily in the same spot. The first church was built in 1307 and is believed to be the first church to be built in Finnmark. It was built at the same time as the fortress and stood somewhere near the current church site. It was demolished in 1711 and a new church opened three years later. However, the materials from the church were used to build houses and a new church had to be completed in 1869. This was the one destroyed by Nazis during the scorched earth policy.

    Pomor Museum in Vardø

    Pomor Buildings & Museum

    The yellow and red wooden buildings make up part of the Pomor Museum. The Pomor Trade was an important period of trade between Northern Norway and the north-western part of Russia that lasted throughout the 19th century until the Russian revolution. These are original trading houses that were able to survive the destruction of World War II. The museum is fantastic and worth visiting.

    You can find information about the museum here: https://www.varangermuseum.no/en/

    Back at Vardø Hotel

    The Pomor Museum is located close to the Vardø Hotel, where this walk began. I hope you enjoyed this walk around Vardø. 

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Vardø is located on the E75, also known as the Varanger Tourist Road. You can find my guide to the E76 by clicking the link below. 

    The E75 Highway
    VARDØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vardø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Helsinki, Walking Guides

    Historic Helsinki Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Historic Helsinki Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Explore Helsinki with our self-guided walking tour. Helsinki is the youngest of the Nordic capitals. It was established in 1550 by King Gustav Vasa, but didn’t see development until the early 19th century, when it was transformed into the capital under Russian rule. But this doesn’t mean that Helsinki is a boring, modern city! In fact, quite the opposite. Helsinki is a gem of architecture, from the Neo-Classical Russian style to the trendy, almost political Art Nouveau of the early 20th century.

    On this walk I focus on the historic centre of Helsinki, in particular the areas around Market Square, Senate Square, and the Esplanade. 

    Helsinki Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    Historic Helsinki

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Helsinki Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins on Market Square, under the monolith with the Russian Eagle. 

    Market Square

    Market Square is the central square of Helsinki. In the summertime, there are vendors here selling Finnish food and souvenirs. In October, the annual herring market is held here. If you happen to be here on the first Friday of the month, don’t be confused if you see a lot of Old American cars – this is a long tradition at Market Square!

    The ferries to Suomenlinna leave from Market Square.

    There are a number of interesting historic buildings on Market Square, so let’s look at those before going to Uspenski Cathedral.

    Stora Enso Headquarters

    The Stora Enso headquarters is a distinctive building designed by the renowned Finnish architect Alvar Aalto and completed in 1962. The materials used included Carrara marble, granite, copper, and brass. It is commonly called ‘the sugar cube’ by locals and is something of a controversial building because many believe it clashes with the historic neo-classical architecture of Market Square. It has at times been called the ugliest building in Finland, but since 2010 it has been granted protection status.

    Stora Enso is a major Finnish company that develops and produces solutions based in wood.

    Presidential Palace

    The Presidential Palace is the official residence of Finland’s president. The building was originally constructed as a residence for a merchant, Johan Henrik Heidenstrauch. In 1837, since the building was so lavish, it was purchased to be converted into the residence for the Governor General of Finland, but instead became the official residence in Helsinki of the Emperor of Russia. The building was re-designed by Carl Ludvig Engel to give it the characteristic neo-classical look it has today. When Finland became independent and the Constitution was passed in 1919, it was converted to the Presidential Palace.

    Uspenski Cathedral

    Uspenski Cathedral feels like a fitting place to start this walk. We will come back to Market Square a little later. The cathedral was completed in 1868 and serves the Finnish-speaking Orthodox congregation. It is believed to be the largest orthodox church in Western Europe and was completed using 700,000 bricks.

    The cathedral is one of the clearest symbols of Russian history in Helsinki. 

    It is possible to visit the cathedral for free. Visit their website for up-to-date opening hours: https://www.hos.fi/en/uspenski-cathedral-main-cathedral-of-the-orthodox-parish-of-helsinki-and-the-diocese-of-helsinki/

    Main Guard Post

    This blue building is the Main Guard Post. It was built in this location in 1843. Historically it was the central guard post of the Helsinki garrison, acting as a post to guard the most important military targets. It was also where they would detain soldiers who were drinking alcohol.

    In Finland there is compulsory military service for men, and this is one of the places they can do their service. They guard from 7:45am in the morning until 10pm at night. One guard shift lasts an hour at most, or only twenty minutes in winter. They must stand absolutely still and carry assault rifles on their backs.

    The Second Customs House & Historic Harbour

    The body of water you see is where the original harbour of Helsinki was while Finland was under Swedish rule. This can therefore be regarded as one of the oldest places in the city. The red brick building is the customs and packing house from 1854. It was built to replace the original customs house, which we will see next. Today this building is a day-care.

    Aleksanterinkatu

    Aleksanterinkatu is a historic street in Helsinki. It is believed to have been here since Helsinki was founded in 1550 but got its current name in 1833 after Emperor Alexander I. Trams have run on the street since the beginning of Helsinki’s trams. This is also the official Christmas street of Finland since 1949.  

    Historic Customs House

    This yellow building tucked away is the historic customs and packing house from 1765. It is one of the few surviving buildings from the time of the Swedish rule. The reason why it is at an angle is because there was originally a plan to build a wall around Helsinki, and this building follows the curve of the wall. However, those plans were never finalised. Today the building is protected.

    Oldest Building in Central Helsinki

    The Sederholm House is a stone house from 1757, making it the oldest building in central Helsinki. It was built for a Swedish merchant. Ever since 2015 the free Helsinki City Museum has been located inside the building.  

    Senate Square

    Once Helsinki was established as the new capital of Finland, Senate Square became the main square. The buildings here are designed by Carl Ludvig Engel in the distinctive neo-classical style.

    Before this became Senate Square, this was a graveyard with a church called the Ulriika Eleonoora Church. When it was designated as the new centre of Helsinki, all the historic buildings as well as the church were torn down. The graves were not moved, so the graves from the 17th and 18th centuries are still under the square. Even in the 2000s, bones have come up in connection with construction work.

    Here is an overview of the most distinctive buildings as well as the statue of Alexander II. Stand in front of Helsinki Cathedral and face it. 

    Government Palace

    This building is to the right of Helsinki Cathedral.

    The Government Palace of Helsinki is the office building of the Council State of Finland and the reason for the name ‘Senate Square’. The Senate moved into the palace in 1822 after the building was completed. In the early years of Finland, the building was home to many important public agencies, including the Bank of Finland, Post of Finland, Customs Board and National Archives.    

    University of Helsinki

    This building is to the left of Helsinki Cathedral.

    The University building was completed in 1832. It was heavily damaged due to bombing during World War II and had to be reconstructed. 

    Helsinki Cathedral

    Helsinki Cathedral is the main Lutheran Church of Helsinki. The church was completed in 1852 in a neoclassical style with a Greek cross layout. The two white buildings on either side of the cathedral are later additions: the one to the left is a bell tower, while the one to the right is a chapel. The zinc statues of the Twelve Apostles are also a later addition.     

    Statue of Alexander II

    The statue of Emperor Alexander II was erected in 1894 to commemorate his re-establishment of the Diet of Finland in 1863. Alexander II also fought for Finnish autonomy and promoted the use of the Finnish language, amongst other things. The figures around the statue represent law, culture, and peasants. While there have been debates if the statue should be removed, it remains a symbol of the role Alexander II had in establishing Finnish statehood.   

    Sofiankatu

    Sofiankatu is a historic street in Helsinki city centre. The street has existed since the 1640s, though the buildings here are from the early 19th century under Russian rule. The cobblestone on the ground represents the two eras: the smoother cobblestone is from the Russian time, while the uneven cobblestone is from the Swedish time. Here you will also see the street sign in the three languages: Finnish, Swedish and Russian.

    Havis Amanda

    The Havis Amanda is a statue that was put on this site in 1908. The work drew strong criticism at first, especially from women who thought its nakedness and seductiveness was inappropriate. Some womens groups even called it as a ‘common French whore’ (the model was in France). The sea lions, with their tongues out, were said to represent men lusting after the woman. However, many of the Swedish elite loved the statue as it made Helsinki look more like a cultural European capital. The statue is supposed to represent Helsinki as the woman rising from the Baltic Sea, which is represented by the sea lions.

    The Esplanade

    The Esplanade is a public park and esplanade designed by architect Carl Ludvig Engel during his construction of Helsinki around 1818.

    On the eastern end of the park, where you are now, is the historic Kappeli restaurant from 1867. The stage outside the restaurant has several music performances throughout the summer months.

    Many of the historic buildings are on the right side, so I’ll focus on that side. However, it is worth while walking down the centre of the Esplanade too. You’ll see a statue of Johan Ludvig Runeberg, the national poet of Finland and other statues of prominent Finns. 

    Uschakoff House (Roberts Coffee)

    The Uschakoff House was originally built in 1815 for Jegor Uschakoff, a Russian merchant who immigrated to Finland in 1808. The building had warehouses and shops on the ground floor and apartments on the upper floor. In 1896, the building was sold to the Private Bank of Helsinki and rebuilt into the Art Nouveau style. The bank closed in 1922 and the city bought the building. The Art Nouveau Hall has been preserved inside and now it is a Roberts Coffee. Highly recommended to go in!

    Academic Bookstore

    I know this is technically a history walk, but we have to include Alvar Aalto wherever possible. On the right, towards the end of the Esplanade, is the Academic Bookstore designed by Alvar Aalto and opened in 1969. The interior of the building is lovely and worth visiting.

    Stockmann Department Store

    The beautiful brick building at the end of the street is called the Argos House. It was completed in 1897. It was originally built as a residential building and is one of the first Art Nouveau buildings to be completed in Helsinki. Stockmann department store bought the building in 1919 and has been there ever since.  

    Swedish Theatre

    You have now made it to the end of the Esplanade, where the Swedish Theatre is.

    The first theatre to be constructed on this site was completed in 1825 and was a small wooden theatre. The building was designed by, you guessed it, Carl Ludvig Engel. However, the theatre soon became cramped, so it was decided to build a new theatre out of stone. The current building was inaugurated in 1866 and was originally called the New Theatre. However, when the Finnish language theatre was established in 1872, the name was changed to Svenska Teatern, or Swedish Theatre.

    Thanks for coming!

    I hope you enjoyed this walk around the historic area of Helsinki. Be sure to visit our travel guide page to learn more about this wonderful capital! 

    Helsinki Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide
  • History, Oslo, Walking Guides

    Oslo’s Historic City Centre: The Ruins of Gamle Oslo

    Walking around Gamle Oslo

    One of my favourite places to walk in Oslo is around the neighbourhood of Gamle Oslo. Located between the modern ‘Barcode’ district and the scenic Ekeberg Sculpture Park, Gamle Oslo is a mixed bag of a neighbourhood. It has scattered apartment buildings, small shops and cafes, is close to the multicultural Grønland neighbourhood (see my separate walk on that here) and is currently a bit of a construction site thanks to the railway and tram lines going through it.

    If you are looking for somewhere a little more ‘off the beaten path’, I can’t recommend Gamle Oslo enough. The ruins are interesting to walk around, and it makes for a nice walk away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre.

    Here’s my guide to the various remains at Gamle Oslo.

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Oslo's History (A Brief Overview)

    If you are looking for a detailed overview of Oslo’s city history, I would recommend reading my separate article (click here). But, in the context of Gamle Oslo, here is a short overview.

    Basically, Gamle Oslo is the place where the first settlement of Oslo was. According to the Icelandic Sagas, Oslo was founded by King Harald Hardråde around the year 1050 because of the good supplies and close proximity to the big rival, Denmark. However, the settlement has been excavated and remains back to the 9th century have been found. Oslo was likely an urban centre by the end of the Viking Age.

    Oslo was an important port and marketplace. It was also the centre of power and religion for Eastern Norway and stood as a base for a number of Norwegian Kings. Because of this, King Håkon V moved the capital from Bergen to Oslo in 1314, building Akershus Fortress and initiating a number of important construction projects in Oslo town centre, such as the stone cathedrals (they were previously wooden), the new royal court, and the bishop’s residence. Dominican and Franciscan monasteries were constructed in the town.

    Oslo’s decline began around the time of the Black Death and subsequent Kalmar Union. By the time of the Reformation, the city was in disrepair. The Reformation also broke the independence of the Norwegian Church and its position as a factor of economic power, and it strengthened Denmark’s control over Norway. Some buildings in Oslo remained important, such as Akershus Fortress, but the town was less so.

    The end of Oslo’s old town was in 1624, when a large fire swept through the town. It was common for medieval towns to have fire; after all, they were dense wooden settlements and people depended on fire for cooking, heating and lighting. It is believed that Oslo had 18 city fires between 1080 and 1567, and the city was rebuilt just as many times on the same site, where the cellars and foundations remained in tact. The fire of 1624 destroyed most of the residential buildings. The contents of the Hallvard Cathedral were destroyed, though the stone walls remained. Oslo Hospital. Oslo’s Bishop’s Residence and the Oslo Cathedral School all survived the fire.

    The Danish King Christian IV decided that rather than rebuilding the city, it should be moved west closer to Akershus Fortress. Residents were given plots of land for free and the new buildings were to be constructed of stone (they ended up being constructed in wood, leading to more fires). The new city was to be called Christiania, after the King. I have a self-guided walk for Christian IV’s Oslo, which you can read by clicking here.

    What happened to the old town? Not much. Parts of it were converted to agricultural land for farmers, while others sat in ruins for over one hundred years. The interest in the old town only came in the late 19th/early 20th centuries, when the first excavations were carried out. 

    Today much of the area has been heritage-protected and converted into park area, while some of the ruins remain under the modern roads and apartments. There is work now on restoring and preserving more of the ruins, but it’s still an ongoing conversation in Oslo. 

    Defining Gamle Oslo

    Today the ruins are located in the neighbourhood Gamle Oslo and are roughly bound by Hovinbekken in the north, the original course of the Alna River in the south and east, and the waterfront at the Medieval Park in the west. The Franciscan monastery (partly covered by Gamlebyen church and Oslo Hospital) just east of Alna is also considered part of the medieval town.

    Sites Around Gamle Oslo

    The Medieval Park

    Middelalderparken

    The walk begins at the Medieval Park, which is located just across from the Barcode modern construction buildings. The park opened in 2000 after a large excavation project, and the waterfront was recreated to represent where the original waterfront of Oslo would’ve been. 

    Today development in the area is prohibited due to ruins and cultural layers above and below the ground.

    The Alna River had its outlet where the southern side of the park is located today. In connection with the construction of the Follobanen, which opened in December 2022, the river will again be diverted here.

    It is possible to walk along the waterfront. There are two ruins here of particular interest. 

    Mariakirken

    St. Mary's Church

    Like almost all the churches at Gamle Oslo, St. Mary’s Church was probably first built as a small wooden church around the 11th century. Also like the other churches, it was rebuilt as a stone church. 

    St. Mary’s was expanded two more times: in the 13th century with the construction of a Gothic choir and then again int he 14th century with brick extensions. After its final renovation, it was believed to have been one of the most magnificent churches in Norway.

    The church had an important role in the function of Norway’s national government up until the Reformation. The church was the chancellor for the Kingdom of Norway and keeper of the great seal. The chancellor was the only permanent institution in the national government with a seat in Norway and functioned as state administration in medieval Norway. The clergy of St. Mary’s had a high rank in the worldly aristocracy from 1300. 

    Additionally, some of the Norwegian Royals were buried here, such as King Håkon V (who moved the capital to Oslo) and Queen Eufemia. This was also the church where they married. 

    The church was set on fire by the Swedes in connection with an attack in 1523, and by the time of the Reformation the church was so dilapidated that it could not be repaired. It was demolished in 1542 and the land was used for agriculture.

    Excavations of the church were carried out in 1867, 1935 and 1961. 

    Kongsgården

    Royal Residence of Oslo

    Hidden behind the brick building are the remains of the Oslo Royal Residence. Archaeological excavations show that the buildings were constructed around the time of King Harald Hardråde, who founded Oslo. It was likely a wooden building but was converted to a stone one under King Håkon V. 

    Remains of a circular moat have been interpreted as a type of fortification similar to ones found in France and the British Isles. German and English coins dated from between 1040 and 1060 were found in the sandy banks of the moat. 

    Kongsgården was used until the Late Middle Ages but fell into disrepair as Akershus Fortress became the main administrative centre and royal residence. 

    Make your way back up to the main road after this. The rest of the ruins are located within close proximity of Oslo Torg. 

    Saxegården

    Manor House

    Tucked away behind the apartment buildings is a small wooden house. This is Saxegården, a manor house that can be traced back to the medieval times. Beneath half the house is a vaulted stone cellar from the late Middle Ages. The property is one of the few medieval manor houses in Oslo where the location can be determined with 100% certainty. it is named after the Saxe family, a Norwegian noble family. The current wooden building is from around the year 1800. 

    Clemenskirken

    Clements Church

    Clemens Church is likely one of the first churches to be constructed in Oslo as it is believed that Oslo’s first urban structure began around where the church stood. The oldest avenue in Oslo was called Clemensallmenningen. It is believed that the Danish King Harald Bluetooth (yes, that Bluetooth) constructed the church. He was Denmark’s first real King and had Oslo as a base for missionary and military advances in Norway. 

    Several Scandinavian churches were dedicated to the patron saint of seafarers, St. Clemens. The original church was constructed in wood, but was replaced as a stone building around the year 1100.

    The layout of the church is unique: it is one of the very few churches in Norway with a two nave ground plan. Remains of what is one of Norway’s oldest cemeteries have been found under and around the church, with the oldest graves being from around 980 AD. This suggests that there was a well-established Christian community around the year 1000. 

    The church went out of use after the Reformation and was left in ruins. 

    Bispegata

    Street

    This is where the medieval avenue called Bispeallmenningen ran. During excavations in 1954, the original street was found in multiple layers between 1.5 metres and 4 metres below the current surface, and three wooden bridges were found. 

    Oslo Ladegård

    Oslo Bishop's Residence

    During the Middle Ages, Oslo Ladegård was the residence of the bishop. It was one of the city’s most important political centres of gravity until the Reformation removed power from the Church. 

    The current house is from 1725 but is built on the remains of a manor house from earlier times. This is where King James of Scotland (or James I of England) and Princess Anna were married in 1589. In the basement are remains of the bishop’s residence from the 13th century. 

    Oslo Torg

    Oslo Square

    The large road junction is where the site of Oslo Torg stood. It was the medieval city’s Roman Forum and meeting place for the King and his men. It is where Oslo’s earliest court stood. 

    It is believed that Oslo Torg was triangular, similar to the medieval square in Lund’s old town in Sweden. 

    The main function of the square was as a market. Goods from the port would be brought up here. Additionally, farmer’s from around Oslo would come here to sell their goods. Food was primarily traded, such as grain, flour, butter, cheese, vegetables, fish, and products from domestic animals. There was also toilet paper (which back then was moss), cotton wool, wooden tools, and other items for the home. Foreign retailers also came here, such as the Hanseatic League. 

    Oslo Torg was also the site of Norway’s only winter market, which was held every year at Lent. 

    The position of the market began to disappear in the 18th century as other roads were being constructed. In the 1960s, a six-lane motorway was built over the square, and now the entire square and parts of the bishops castle are underneath the motorway. 

    Minneparken

    Memorial Park

    Now we’ll visit Minneparken, which is where a number of ruins from Oslo are located. 

    Hallvardskatedralen

    St. Hallvard Cathedral

    It is believed that King Sigurd Jorsdalfare began construction of the cathedral in the early 12th century. The cathedral is named after Oslo’s patron saint Hallvard, who was shot when he tried to save an innocent, pregnant woman accused of theft. The body of St. Hallvard was moved from its original location at Lier and enshrined in a silver casket that was placed on the high altar. 

    The most important parts of the church were completed in 1130, when King Sigurd was buried in the south wall of the choir. 

    Hallvard Cathedral was Eastern Norway’s religious centre for over 500 years. It was the coronation church, royal wedding church, royal burial chapel, and one of Scandinavia’s most visited pilgrimage destinations. 

    The style of the cathedral was unique. The builders took inspiration from the south and east of Europe, and it’s believed the present-day Gamle Aker Church was modelled after Hallvard Cathedral. 

    After the fire of 1624, Hallvard Cathedral was still standing and must’ve been in good condition as it remained as the main church for Eastern Norway until 1639, when the Holy Trinity Church in the new part of Oslo was completed. After this, Hallvard Cathedral fell into disrepair and in 1696 was demolished. It now became a quarry for Akershus Fortress, while some of the stone was used in the construction of Oslo Cathedral. One of the stones from Hallvard Cathedral can be seen on the corner of the tower of Oslo Cathedral today. Additionally, two of Oslo Cathedral’s four bells are from Hallvard Cathedral. Some items from the cathedral have been preserved in museums. For example, in the University of Oslo’s Antiquity Collection there is an altar cross from the 13th century. 

    In the 1770s, the gravestones (which dated from 1130 to 1660) were removed as filling material and road surface.

    The first excavation took place in 1835. At the beginning of the 1920s, the whole ruin came to light. However, in the 1960s part of the cathedral was covered by concrete to allow for the expansion of Bispegata. 

    Olavsklosteret

    St. Olav Monastery

    Located next to the ruins of the Hallvard Cathedral is the Olav Monastery. The monastery was built in 1240 next to the Olav Church. They had a herb garden north of the monastery and a pond, both of which were restored in 1929. After the Reformation, the monastery was converted to a bishop’s residence.

    The current Oslo bishopric is located in the building built on the eastern ruins. The western ruins were only uncovered in the 1950s. 

    Korskirken

    Cross Church

    The last ruins in Minneparken are of Korskirken, a small parish church located on the northern boundary of Oslo. It is not known when the church was built and it is not mentioned in written documents about a famous battle in Oslo in 1240. However, in 1989 a rune stick was found dating to the first half of the 13th century, and it mentions Korskirken. 

    A Little Further Away...

    If you want to explore more of Old Oslo, there are more remains scattered around the neighbourhood. Here they are. 

    Nonneseter Klosteret

    Nonneseter Monastery

    Nonneseter Monastery was constructed around 1150 and was a Benedictine convent for nuns dedicated to the Holy Mary. The monastery was mentioned for the first time in 1161. Snorre Sturlason refers to the monastery in Håkon Herdebrei’s saga when he describes the Battle of Ekeberg.

    Nonnester Monastery was one of the largest landowners in Norway, owning 272 farms in Eastern Norway. The monastery existed for some time after the Reformation, but it was confiscated in 1547 and given to Akershus Fortress. It eventually fell into disrepair and was demolished in 1616.

    The remains were discovered when the building at Scheiwgaards gate 50 was built in 1887.

    Today the remains of the monastery can be found under the ground beneath the properties at Schweigaards gate 55 and Grønlandsleiret 73.

    Oslo Hospital

    This is the site of Norway’s oldest hospital. However, it didn’t start out as a hospital. This site was originally a Franciscan monastery that was established here under King Håkon V. 

    After the Reformation, the monastery was handed over to the city and turned into a hospital. The hospital operation was based on the work of the Franciscans: the Gray Friars carried out targeted care work for lepers and others of the city’s weakest. It eventually became a psychiatric hospital and remained as such until 2018, when it closed. 

    The buildings burned in 1567, and the monastery church remained standing until 1794. It was then replaced by the Gamlebyen church, which was built partly on top of the ruins of the old church. 

    The oldest building on the property is the Gråsteinbygningen (Grey Stone Building), which was erected in 1737 using several types of stone from Ekebrg, including limestone, clay, slate and gneiss. 

    Gamlebygen Church is a privately owned church located on the property. The first church was built here at the end of the 13th century and was one of the first buildings in Oslo to be built of brick. After the Reformation, the church was also converted into a hospital. The church was destroyed by Swedes in 1567 and has since been rebuilt many times. The last time it was rebuilt was in 1939. 

    Galgeberg

    Gallows Hill

    Just north of Gamle Oslo is the neighbourhood Galgeberg. This name gives away what it used to be – Gallows Hill. In the Middle Ages, the area was a place for public executions and the gallows stood here. 

    The road the gallows stood on was part of the most important road network out of Oslo towards the north. 

    The gallows stood in a courtyard where the residential complex Galgeberg 3 is. The flagpole marks the specific spot. 

    Close by is a small street called Justiskroken, which is believed to have been where the executioner lived. A small wooden house stands here and is from the middle of the 18th century.

    You can read about the last execution of Galgeberg here: https://www.dagsavisen.no/oslo/byhistorie/2021/10/08/da-det-siste-hodet-rullet-pa-galgeberg/

    Oslo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Copenhagen, Walking Guides

    Kongens Nytorv, Nyhavn & Amalienborg: A Self-Guided Walk in Copenhagen

    Kongens Nytorv, Nyhavn & Amalienborg: A Self-Guided Walk in Copenhagen

    Here’s my self-guided walk from Nyhavn to Amalienborg via Kongens Nytorv in Copenhagen. The area around Nyhavn was developed in the 17th century as a new market place that would be larger and more accommodating than the old Gammel Tov. The neighbourhood, called Frederiksstaden, also emerged as a place for Copenhagen’s elite to build their manor homes. Today Kongens Nytorv, the old market, has been turned into a major traffic junction in Copenhagen, while the old harbour Nyhavn has become the city’s most famous attraction. The royal family also call Frederiksstaden home at their palace Amalienborg.

    On this walk you’ll wander through the neighbourhood, seeing all the different sides it has to offer. 

    In this article...

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Kongens Nytorv, Nyhavn & Amalienborg

    This walk begins in the centre of Kongens Nytorv in Copenhagen.

    Kongens Nytorv

    The walk begins in the middle of Kongens Nytorv – a large square in the east of Copenhagen. 

    Kongens Nytorv was laid out by King Christian V in 1670 as Copenhagen was being expanded. The idea was to move away from the older square Gammeltorv (literally The Old Square), which at the time was a muddy medieval market. Kongens Nytorv was to have a lovely garden and cobblestones. The inspiration came from Paris. 

    The city’s eastern gate used to be here, but it was moved to make way for the district to be called New Copenhagen. Eventually the eastern gate was abandoned. 

    The baroque garden was completed in 1688 but didn’t survive too long – in 1747 the entire square was rebuilt by King Frederick V as a military ceremony ground. 

    Throughout the 2000s Kongens Nytorv underwent a massive refurbishment including the construction of the metro – it opened in 2019 to the public. It is used as an exhibition space, ice skating rink, market, and for high school graduation ceremonies. 

    Christian V Statue

    The equestrian statue is of King Christian V, who initiated the construction of Kongens Nytorv. It dates to 1688, when the baroque garden was completed, and today it’s the oldest equestrian statue in Scandinavia.

    Inspiration came from the statue of Louis XIII which stands at Place des Vosges in Paris.

    The positioning of the horse made it difficult for the metal, and the construction had to be strengthened. To do this, they put a naked man under the horse – this is supposed to represent envy, but really it’s just supporting the horse. 

    The Old Kiosk

    The old kiosk dates back to 1913. It is built int he Baroque Revival style and used to offer the first public telephone connection in Copenhagen. It was possible to make a call every day except Sundays. The phone box was open from 10am to 8pm. 

    Charlottenborg Palace

    Charlottenborg Palace is the oldest building on Kongens Nytorv. When the square was being constructed, the plots around it were sold off to Copenhagen’s elite. This one was built as a residence for Ulrik Frederick Gyldenløve, who was Christian V’s half brother. At the time, he was the Governor General of Norway.

    Today the building is home to the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts (they have been here since 1754) and there is a exhibition space called Kunsthal Charlottenborg that you can visit. 

    French Classicism, 1780

    Harsdorff House

    Harsdorff House was built in 1780 as a private residence for Caspar Frederick Harsdorfff, who had become the professor of perspective at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts in 1766. 

    It has since served as a model for the many master builders of the time who had little academic training.

    Art Nouveau, 1931

    The Royal Theatre

    The theatre was founded in 1748 as a theatre for the King, but has since become a theatre for the country. 

    1874

    Hotel D'Angleterre

    This hotel is one of the oldest and most prestigious hotels in the world, and on top of that it is regarded as one of the first deluxe hotels in the world.

    There are 30 rooms and 60 suites inside, and the most expensive room I could find online is a 90m2 apartment that goes for $2,500 USD a night. The cheapest room I could find for January 2022 was $479 for one night. 

    In Alfred Hitchcock’s Tom Curtain, the protagonist (played by Paul Newman) stays here. Hitchcock is one of the scenes sitting in the lobby with a baby in his arms. 

    There is also a 1 Michelin Star restaurant inside. 

    Dutch Baroque, 1683

    French Embassy

    This lovely building was constructed in 1683 as the home for the Danish war hero Niels Juel, who had won the fame of wealth for his victory in the Battle of Køge Bay. When Niels died, Christian V had his “official mistress” and mother of five of his children, Sophie Amalie Moth, take over the mansion.

    The building was purchased by the French state in 1930 and is now the French Embassy. 

    Nyhavn

    Nyhavn is arguably the most famous place in Copenhagen. This harbour area (Nyhavn literally means “New Harbour”) is full of colourful warehouses that have now been converted into hip restaurants, bars and shops – though the area does feel particularly touristy and a little overpriced. 

    The harbour is artificial. It was constructed by King Christian V from 1670 to 1675 and dug out by Swedish prisoners of war from the Dano-Swedish War of 1658-1660. It was designed to be a gateway into the new Kongens Nytorv and was a place for fishermen to drop off their catch and for ships to handle cargo.

    Shortly after it was finished, it became notorious for the flowing of beer, the large number of sailors, and for prostitution. Most of the plots were sold off to merchants and skippers, and the buildings were used by people associated with maritime professions. 

    Fortunately the largest fires of Copenhagen have not made it to Nyhavn, so many of the buildings are from the mid-1700s, though there are some still standing from the 17th century.

    The area was pestrianised in 1980 and cleaned up. It became too small for modern ships and was transformed into the destination area we see today. It still has a grungy feel thanks to the bars, but that’s part of the charm of the area. 

    Memorial Anchor

    At the end of the harbour is a memorial anchor. it is placed there to commemorate the 1700 Danish soldiers and sailors in service for the Navy, merchant fleet or Allied forces who sacrificed their lives during World War II.

    The anchor was inaugurated in 1951. 

    Ships in the Harbour

    The ships at. the inner part of the harbour are owned by the Danish National Museum. 

    One of the most unique ships is the Lightvessel XVII Gedser Rev – the ship acts as a lighthouse and was used in areas that are too deep or unsuitable for lighthouse construction. 

    Nyhavn 7: Hong Kong Bar

    Nyhavn 7 is an old building from the 17th century. The name of the bar, the Hong Kong Bar, has nothing to do with Hong Kong. In fact, this is one of the last remaining sailors bars on Nyhavn. The Hong Kong bar was also a place where the sailors could get something besides beer, if you know what I mean… 

    Nyhavn 9

    Nyhavn 9 is believed to be the oldest house remaining on the street. It is also one of the few townhouses that was not heightened in the 19th century.

    The property was built in 1681 for harbourmaster Christen Christensen. After that, it was divided into apartments. 

    Since 1982, the building has been owned by Christel Windfeld-Lund. She doesn’t live in the building, but the restaurant Leonora Christine is based in the cellar. 

    Nyhavn 11

    Nyhavn 11 is from 1689 and has had a wide variety of interesting owners. One of the first owners was Jacob Severin, who married into wealth and was in 1733 granted a full monopoly on trade with Greenland. He founded a town in Greenland called Jacobshavn after himself. The town is still there, but is today known as Ilulissat. 

    Another interesting owner is Ludvig Ferdinand Romer, who established a sugar refinery in the building. He had previously been the governor of the Danish Gold Coast – a Danish colony in West Africa in present day Ghana. 

    Above the front entrance today is a figure of a sugar baker holding a sugar loaf in one hand and a sugar tin in the other. It was a way of identifying the houses before house numbers were a thing.

    By 1840, there were 34 people living in the property. 

    Nyhavn 67

    Nyhavn 67 is famous because it is where Hans Christian Andersen lived. Originally built as one household in the late 17th century, it was expanded and in the mid-19th century had five households here. 

    Andersen lived here with only short interruptions from 1848 to 1865.

    Today it is known as cafe H.C. Anderson. 

    Toldbodegade

    Toldbodegade (Customs House Street) led from the city centre of Copenhagen to the customs office. A string of warehouses were built along this street, most notably the West India Warehouse. 

    Sankt Annæ Plads

    Saint Anne Place is named after a chapel that used to stand here in the Middle Ages. The chapel was dedicated to the Virgin Mary’s mother, Saint Anna. The chapel only lasted for a few decades and is mostly forgotten in history, but its name was shared with a hospital called Saint Anna. The hospital stood for a long time in this area. 

    The location was believed to have healing power, and during excavations a number of crutches were found near where the chapel used to stand. People think the “cripples” (as the term in history books is used) were healed on the site and no longer needed their crutches. 

    The shape of the square today is similar to that of Nyhavn. That’s because this used to be a canal, but it was filled in to build the Royal Navy Hospital. Once it became a square, the district became fashionable with many nice buildings here. The garden was planted in 1852. 

    The beautiful building to your right is the old headquarters for DFDS (De Forende Dampskibs Selskaber), a shipping company. It now houses the Embassy of Finland and the Danish Nurses Association. 

    The statue that you see is of Carl Frederick Tietgen (1829-1901). He was a Danish financier and industrialist who played an important role in the industrialisation of Denmark and founded companies such as Tuborg (beer company) and DFDS. 

    Admiral Hotel

    This warehouse was constructed in 1787 for a shipping company. From the 1880s it was used to store grain. 

    The building was bought in 1973 to be converted into a hotel, which it is today. 

    Copenhagen Opera House

    Step into Amaliehaven – the garden area facing the water. This park is fairly new – it was established in 1983 and is designed to compliment the symmetry of Frederiksgade and Amalienborg. Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro created the works for the park, including the four columns that are supposed to represent the areas old use as a shipyard. 

    The opera house in Copenhagen is a bit of a controversy. It is one of the most expensive opera houses ever built, costing 2.5 billion DKK ($370,000,000 USD). It was funded by the Maersk shipping company. Some politicians were offended by the private donation, in part because the full cost was tax deductible, thus virtually forcing the government to buy the building. 

    The Maersk shipping magnate Maersk Mc-Kinney Møller had final say in the design. Many think the intention was to make. it look like a shipping container. 

    After its opening in 2005, the architect Henning Larsen wrote a book being very critical of the building. He distanced himself from it, calling it a “mausoleum” for Maersk Mc-Kinney Møller and “without comparison the most owner-infected ‘worst case’ in my fifty years as an independent arhcitect – squeezed between the Phantom of the Opera himself (i.e. Maersk), shipping magnates and lawyers.

    Directions: Head across the street into Amalienborg. Look at the wall to your left as you enter – there are bullet holes there from fighting between the Danes and the Nazis during World War II. 

    Amalienborg Palace

    You have made it to Amalienborg Palace, the home of the Danish royal family. 

    The name comes from Queen Sophie Amalie, who built a palace here after buying the land in 1660. It was a small mansion and large garden area, but it was all destroyed in 1689. The plot was deserted until 1728 before being bought and built as four manors for four noble families. 

    When the original royal residence, Christiansborg Palace, burned down in 1794 this became the temporary home of the royal family. Eventually they decided to make it their permanent residence. 

    Today the Danish royal family is one of the world’s oldest monarchs, and Amalienborg is considered to be the most distinguished piece of Rococo architecture in Denmark.

    We’ll go clockwise around the square, starting with the building immediately to your left. 

    Schacks Palace / Christian IX's Palace

    This is the current residence of Queen Margrethe II – if the flag is up, she’s home. 

    Moltke Palace

    Since 1885, this palace has been used to accommodate prominent guests. 

    Levetzau's Palace

    This was the home of Crown Prince Frederick until 2004. Today it is used as a museum for the royal house and you can visit the royal apartments with their original fittings and furnishings. 

    Brockdorff's Palace

    This is the current residence of Crown Prince Frederick and Princess Mary. It is fairly common to see them in this area – cycling their kids to school and so on. 

    Statue: King Frederick V

    The statue represents King Frederick V, the founder of Amalienborg. It was commissioned by Moltke, one of the old palace owners. The statue cost more than the entirety of Amalienborg. 

    Marble Church

    The Marble Church, formally known as Fredericks Church, is one of the most distinctive buildings in Copenhagen. The church was designed in 1740 and. the foundation stone was set by King Frederick V on 31 October 1749. However, due to budget constraints, the church was abandoned in 1770 and stood in ruins for 150 years.

    In 1874 Andreas Frederick Krieger, Denmark’s Finance Minister, sold. the ruins of the uncompleted church to Carl Frederick Tietgen on the condition that Tietgen would build a church similar to the original plans and then donate it to the state. Tietgen did just that. In return, Tietgen got the rights to subdivide the neighbouring plots for development. The deal was highly controversial at the time and Krieger was charged with corruption, though he was acquitted. 

    The church is mostly made of limestone and not marble as the name implies, due to budget cuts. 

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide
  • Oslo, Walking Guides

    Industrial Heritage Along Oslo’s Akerselva River

    Self-Guided Walk on the Akerselva River in Oslo

    Here’s my self-guided walk on the Akerselva River in Oslo. The Akerselva is easily the most charming area in Oslo.

    The Akerselva (Aker River) is a 8.2km (5.1 mi) long river that flows through the middle of Oslo.

    The river can be credited with the development of Oslo. In the 19th century, it became the centre of the new industries coming to the city, as factories were able to utilise the power of the river.

    Today the river has been cleaned up and is known as ‘Oslo’s green lung’. Along the banks of the river are park areas, with the factories being converted into offices, schools, bars, cafes and restaurants.

    I honestly believe no trip to Oslo is complete without a visit to the river. While much of the city centre of Oslo feels like “Anywhere, Europe”, Akerselva has a distinctive personality that makes Oslo stand out from other Norwegian cities.

    This walk starts at Nydalen and continues all the way back to the city centre.

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    The Walking Route

    Where we begin:

    We begin in Nydalen. To get there, take the metro to the stop ‘Nydalen’ and then walk through the shopping mall called ‘Torgbygget’. When you reach the river, cross the bridge and turn right. After 2-3 minutes, you’ll see the preserved factory. 

    Part One: Nydalen

    Nydalen is the first neighbourhood we will visit. The first mention of this neighbourhood was in 1578, when a farm called ‘Nygårdsdalen’, meaning ‘the valley belonging to the farm Nygård’, was mentioned in documents. 

    The area didn’t see major growth until the late 19th century, when the banks of the river were sold off and industrial buildings were constructed. The first type of industry in Nydalen was sawmills, but later the textiles industry came here and then the iron industry. 

    At the time, Nydalen was relatively isolated from Christiania, so it was important to build a community here. The workers were therefore very closely tied to the factory. For example, between 1857 and 1905 there was a school for the children who also had to work at the factory, and then from 1876 the companies financed their own midwives. When the tram came here in 1902, people moved further away and began to commute. 

    Today the neighbourhood is very modern with residential buildings, commercial and service establishments, shopping centres, eateries and corporate offices. The BI Norwegian Business School is located here, and since the opening of the metro in 2003 a lot of people have been attracted to the area. 

    Bakke Mølle

    Bakke Mølle is a mill established in 1811 by Hans Nielsen Hauge, a famous Norwegian preacher and founder of the ‘Haugien movement’. He had just been released from prison after preaching illegally, and he was given the nearby farm Bakkehaugen from his brother. He had a dam and mill built on the property and did well, selling the mill in 1824.

    For a while Bakke Mølle was owned by Peter Larsen & Co and was important for Nydalen. Eventually the mill was taken over by Christiania Spigerverk, who was expanding in Nydalen (see the historic photo above) and wanted the waterfall at Bakke Mølle. The building we can see became a storage building. 

    Today the building is used by the local government as offices. 

    Part Two: Bjølsen

    Bjølsen is a district in Oslo’s north. The area is characterised by old workers housing and green areas. Bjølsen has a high young population and there is a lot of active nightlife along Bergensgata. Bjølsen has traditonall been a working class area. Half the population is under the age of 40.

    Vannvoktboligen

    Due to pollution, Christiania’s water intake was moved to Maridalsvannet in 1867. This increased so much pressure that a reduction pool had to be built here. It is still located at the top of the hill, above today’s playground. Upstairs is a watchtower that is now a kindergarten.

    Idun Gjaerfabrikk

    This is the second yeast factory to start up in the area. Idun was one of the companies that lasted the longest along the river, however in 2005 it ended after more than 100 years of operation. You can see the great factory gate towards Treschows gate.

    From the 1930s they also produced broth, vinegar, mustard and other foods. After 1991, the production of Idun mustard and ketchup as well as vinegar was transferred out of Oslo to Staburet. Yeast and baked goods production in Oslo was discontinued in 2005 and moved to Sweden. Idun still has bakery production elsewhere in the country. The factory was one of the last factories to be closed down. 

    From 2010, the factory area was converted to apartments. The wrought iron gate, designed by Henrik Bull, has been preserved. 

    Treschows Bridge

    For a few years in the 19th century the towns water intake was located by the bridge. The city’s water supplies improved when wooden water pipes were replaced with iron pipes. But the water was filled with sawdust and soon the water supply was moved. The bridge is named after Admiral Gerhard Treschow, who owned Bjølsen farm and was behind several industrial companies in the area.

    Bjølsenfossen

    Bjølsenfossen has largely influenced the industrial history of the area. From the 14th century onwards there were mills here, before Bjølsen Valsemølle took over and became the country’s largest flour producer. The waterfall, called Little Niagara, is the largest in Akerselva with a drop of 16 metres. The waterfall is unfortunately locked inside the factory area. You can hear the waterfall from one of the bridges.

    This is the largest waterfall on Akerselva but can’t be seen today. There is a proposal to open a footpath on the west side of the waterfall. There is a music group named after this area, Bjølsen Valsemølle.

    The deep gorge through the waterfall is called Jerusalem after an old farm in the area.

    Bjølsen Valsemølle

    Was the country’s largest flour mill. Built in 1884. The mill was founded by Gustav Martinson in collaboration with Ole Amundsen who owned Bjølsen Mølle. The silo is from 1939. As recently as 1967, Akerselva delievered power to production. The mill had 60 horses carrying grain and flour between Vippetangen and the mills at Bjølsen and Nedre Foss. From 1918 horse transport was replaced with the grain tram.

    You can visit their website here: https://www.bjolsenvalsemolle.no/

    Svalgangshuset

    House that belongs to Bjølsen Valsemølle. Located at Treschows gate 4. It is a two storey house where all the rooms have access from a covered porch. The house is from 1850 and was the mill master residence.

    Directors House

    House that belongs to Bjølsen Valsemølle. Located at Treschows gate 4. It is a two storey house where all the rooms have access from a covered porch. The house is from 1850 and was the mill master residence.

    Lilleborg Fabrikker

    Since 1712, soap has been boiled here. Lilleborg Fabrikker was established by Ludvig Mariboe in 1812 as a clothing factory. The factory was established in the old Jerusalem Paper Mill from the latter half of the 18th century. The mill was bought by Mariboe in 1812 and he wound up in the mill operation and instead established a clothing factory with the name Lilleborg Fabrikk.

    Eventually they built an oil mill and a by-product of the oil was soap, so in 1842 the soap factory was established. The company was sold in 1862 to Peter Wessel Wind Kildal, who focused the company on the oil mill and soap factory. He grew Lilleborg to be one of the most important companies in Norway. In 1987, the production of household goods was moved to Ski, where it still takes place today.

    Bentse Brug Bentsegata 31-35

    Norway’s first paper mill was built here in the 1690s. It was primarily newsprint and brown paper that were produced. Paper production was discontinued in 1898. Ole Bentsen, the owner of the paper mill, had received royal privilege from King Christian V and the mill was the first of its kind in Norway. 

    In 1858, it became the first mill in Norway to use wood pulp. By 1865, other companies were doing the same and Bentse Brug struggled to compete. In 1889, it went bankrupt and was then acquired. The buildings were demolished in 1976. 

    Part Three: Sagene

    Sagene is a district located 2-3km north of the city centre. Originally associated with factories, today Sagene is one of the more attractive areas to live in in Oslo.

    The area used to be a farm called Vøyen, which is from pre-Christian times. Nonneseter monastery owned Vøyen and Sagene with a mill and fishing rights. Christian IV laid the area out as an urban land in 1629. The main building on Nedre Vøyen still exists at Maridalsveien 87.

    From the 16th century Sagene had a population associated with sawmills. In 1624, the king decided that only half-timbered houses should be built in Christiania, and those who couldn’t afford it had to move to Sagene. In 1683, 89 people lived on Sagene.

    Factories were built up in the 1700s and 1800s and this attracted people to the area. In 1875, 2000 workers were here. A horse tram was completed around 1880.

    Myraløkka

    Has always been a popular place for ids to play and swim. The valley is shaped like an amphitheatre because huge amounts of clay were excavated here for making bricks. Akerselva had many brickworks, and the business was seasonal. The bricks were mined in the summer and the clay was burned at high temperatures. Under the round mound at the bottom of the amphitheatre is the factory chimney buried. At the top of Myraløkka is English-style workers housing that was completed in 1914.

    Myrens Verksted

    This is one of Akerselva’s pioneer companies. It was known as the ‘factories factory’ as it made and repaired machines for other companies. 

    Today the building is used by NRK. 

    Vøyen Brua

    From the beginning of the 17th century, the towns drinking water source was here. This was the city’s first public water intake. Hollowed out logs led the water to Akershus Fortress. For a fee, citizens could have branch pipes added to water posts in their own courtyard. At the same time it was common for the water to be filled with rotten sawdust.

    Woman's Monument

    Below the bridge is a monument of Betzy Kjelsberg (1866-1950), a female pioneer and Norway’s first female factory inspector. As a factory inspector, she had responsibility for children and women’s working conditions throughout the country.

    Nords Isproduksjon

    Before the time of refrigerators, goods were cooled down with ice. In the 19th century, Martin used Edvard North Akerselva for ice production. He cut out ice blocks and the demand for ice was so great that eventually he dammed up parts of the Ila valley to make ice ponds. The water he collected was put into one large ice rink down by Waldemar Thranes gate.

    Glads Mølle

    Yellow building. It is from 1736 and is called Glads Mølle. It is Akerselva’s oldest preserved factory building and is the only listed industrial building. It made paper and is still a printing house inside.

    Beierbrua

    Named after Anders Beyer, who owned it in 1671. It is one of the finest bridges along the river and is the factory girls bridge. The bridge was a link between the textile industry on the west of the river and the residential areas on the east side. The sculpture is from 1986 and is made by Ellen Jacobsen.

    Hjula Væverier

    The founder of this company was Halvor Schou, who had been studying the brewing of beer in England. He came back to Norway, however, with plans to make a textiles factory. His factory became the largest textile factory in Akerselva. The factory supplied dresses, shirts, and bus clothes. It closed in 1857. 

    Due to the American Civil War, cotton supplies became low so Schou began producing wool sweaters. 

    The clothing company closed in 1957. Today, a real estate company called Hjula Vaeveri Halvor Schou currently operates.

    The buildings still stand today and characterise the area of Akerselva. 

    Hønse Lovisa House

    This charming red house was a sawmills residence and today it is a nice little café.

    It is known as Hønse-Lovisa’s House. Why?

    Hønse-Lovisa was an important literary figure in the play The Kid. The name has been associated with the house since the 1970s because it was used in the film adaptation from 1974. The play takes place in the industrial area along the river at the end of the 19th century. There is an older woman called Hønse-Lovisa. Her house is called ‘Hønsereiret’ because she takes care of single mothers. She gives the factory girls who are injured a roof over their heads so they can keep their kids even if they are illegitimate cildren. The character represented a revolt against societal norms that existed about single mothers and their children in the 19th century.

    Workers Museum

    This is an old wood house building on Sagveien 28. The museum tells about Akerselva’s labour and industrial history. A little further away is an apartment on Sagveien 8 which shows the living conditions of the workers.

    Vøyens Bomuldsspinderi

    South of Beierbrua is the textile giant Vøyens Bomuldsspinderi, founded by Knud Graah. The textile factory started in 1846 and lasted until 1955. At the time the river had colour in it due to the cloth dyeing. Even the rates were green, blue or purpose. If you go down the stairs on the west side of the river you can feel the splash from Nedre Vøyenfallene.

    Part Four: Øvre Grunnerløkka

    Grunerlokka was named after the mint master Friedrich Gruner who owned Nedre Foss Mill. Grunerlokka was incorporated into Oslo in 1858. Before it became part of Oslo, a neighbourhood of affordable wooden houses was built here called “New York”.

    From 1861 the land was sold off to be developed.

    The district became an immigrant district, and many of the Jews who immigrated at the end of the 19th century settled here. Most immigrants came from Nordic countries. In recent times, it is Pakistanis and Turks who left their mark on the district. Grunerlooka has also always been popular with artists, and Edvard Munch lived in both Fossveien 7 and Thorvald Meyers gate 48 (now Shous plass 1). In the latter he painted Sick Child and Spring.

    Sannerbrua

    Discharges from factories and sewerage made the river a stinking puddle. It was the worst in the summer. It was not so bad on Sundays when the factories weren’t operating. It got so bad that the conservatives in 1915 proposed to put a lid on the river was a river when it should be a smile. That same year, the city council decided that the river should be cleaner and there should be parks. During the cleaning strikes in the 1920s the bins were emptied into the river and as late as 1962 there were 71 outlets from the public sewer system into the river.

    Åmot Bridge

    Suspension bridge from 1851. Was moved here in 1952. On the bridge we find the inscription “100 men I carry, but fail during steady march”

    Christiania Seildugsfabrik (Seilduken)

    The canvas was one of the largest workplaces along the river, founded in 1858. The factory produced canvas and ropes, and people made a pilgrimage here to look at the building – which was described as the second largest after the castle. Today the Oslo Academy of Arts has moved to the plot, and if you take the hill up by Åmot Bridge, you find the college patio.

    One of the best preserved industrial plants. The factory made sails for sailing ships but gradually expanded to fishing equipment, nets, ropes and sacks. It was established by Ole Hauge. Most of the employees were women and the working conditions are among the worst in the entire city. In 1908 there were 900 employees here. Production was discontinued in 1960 when there was overproduction of textiles in the world.

    In 1999, the buildings were given to the Oslo Academy of Arts.

    Akers Mek. Verksted

    On the site by the factory is a small half-timbered house by the river. This was the Akers Mek. Workshop in 1841. Eventually the business moved to Pipervika.

    The founder was War Captain P.S. Steenstrup, who owned the factory until his death in 1863. He was the master of Norway’s first steamship, D.S. Constitutionen. He had built Carl Johans Shipyard as the navy’s main shipyard.

    The company moved by the Oslofjord in 1854 and grew into a shipyard.

    Kuba

    There are different views about the origin of the name Cuba, but one of the theories is that the name can be seen in connection with the wooden houses called “new york” further down. It is a large circular square on the west side of the river that used to have a giant gas bell owned by Oslo gassverk. For a long time, gas was the competitor to electricity, and gas was used in street lights. Gas was produced by heading up coal, and therefore there is a lighthouse here. The gas bell has been torn down, but the lighthouse is restored and has re-emerged as a café.

    Christiania was the second city in the Nordic region to have its own gasworks after Christiania. The municipality took over the gasworks in 1878. The gas plant improved the city’s street lighting, but it was also in demand for indoor lighting in factories, institutions and in prosperous homes. When electricity came, gas was outcompeted as an indoor light source. For private space heating, gas was of little important. When the gas burner came for cooking in 1890s, gas was in demand.

    During the 1920s electric stoves became more common and street lighting was electrified. The last gas lantern disappeared in 1929. The company continued because many businesses preferred to use gas in production rather than electricity because gas heat was quicker. However, the gasworks was closed in 1976. The old office building in Storgata has a historic sign on it.

    The Silos

    This belonged to Bjølsen Valsemølle and was completed in 1953. In an architectural competition in the 1980s it was proposed to turn it into a hotel, but it was taken over by the student organisation and turned into a student house. In 2002 it received the Oslo City Architecture Prize. If we look through the window in the first one, we can see a tram – this is what the grain tram looked like.

    Part Five: Nedre Grunerløkka

    Nedre Foss

    From ancient times the boats went all the way up here. Today, only the fish take the route at Nedre Foss. There are traces of what is perhaps the country’s oldest mill operation. The monks from Hovedøya had a mill here, which was later taken over by the King at the Reformation in 1537 and then went by the name of the King’s mill.

    The farm was owned by Hovedøya monastery and was well located for business since the only bridge over Akerselva was here. A fee was charged for crossing the bridge until 1865. The king took over the farm during the Reformation in 1537 and in the early 17th century instructed farmers to cut timber and drive it to the rising saw at Nedre Foss. The farm was called “Kongens Mølle”.

    Salmon went up Nedre Foss and the fishing provided income to the farmer.

    The farm was subdivided in 1668 and after that Fredrik Gruner bought the farm. His surname gave name to the neighbourhood. The family owned the property for extended periods of time. In 1801, farming was largely discontinued. Plans for dredging the river and establishing a harbour at Nedre Foss were discussed in the 1840s and 1850s. In the 1850s, Gruner subdivided 53 plots of land 30 metres south of the farm, and the wooden building known as ‘New York’ was built.

    The silo was in operation until 2000.

    A mill has been here since before the 1200s and mill operations took place here until 1985. The main building from the farm remains – it was restored and opened in 2017 as a restaurant, but later that year parts of the building were damaged by fire.

    Nedre Foss Park

    Here you’ll find Grunerløkka’s oldest building. The main building is from 1802, however there has been a farm here since the Middle Ages when it was owned by the monastery on Hovedøya, later by the Gruner family, and most recently by Bjølsen Valsemølle. There has been mill operations since the 13th century until 1985. The municipality bought the areas by Nedra Waterfall to build one of Akerselva’s greenest areas.

    Grunerhagen

    The Gruner family, who gave the name to the area Grunerlokka, laid out a legendary garden on the east side of the river. They found a pond, terraces, gazebos, fruit trees, geese and peacocks. The garden was private and surrounded by a fence. Today only the name survives.

    The family laid out the garden in the beginning of the 18th century as a magnificent garden. The park had terraces, avenues, a pond with gazebos on stilts and a zoo with peacocks, geese and turkeys. There are no pictures of the old garden. The park was completely redesigned in the middle of the 19th century. When Edvard Munch lived on Fossveien and made pictures of the park there was still a pond. In the early 20th century, the park was dilapidated. During the war it was used for growing food. In 1986 a real estate company wanted to build offices, hotels and homes in the area. After major protests from the residents, through a state zoning plan for Nedre Foss, the park was preserved.

    Vulkan & Mathallen

    Vulkan Jernstøberi was built by Akerselva in 1873 and was a pioneer in Norway in the production of steel bridges. The old area now has hotels, restaurants, the Dansens hus, the School of Communications and Mathallen Oslo which moved here in 1908.

    Former industrial area. In 2013-2014 the area was transformed into a business and residential area. In earlier times there was a sawmill here. The sawmill closed in 1840. There was also a cement factory, brickworks, veneer saw and chair factory here, as well as Oslo’s first publicly available shower path.

    In 1873, Vulkan Jernstøberi took over the site. They specialised in steel bridges for railways and roads, but also had other assignments, such as the dome at the old Colosseum cinema. It closed in the late 1950s. The buildings were then rente dout for various business and office purposes.

    The redevelopment has been praised with several awards for the way the old industrial area has been redeveloped.

    Grunerbrua

    Akerselva’s oldest bridge was where Grunerbrua is today. Until Vaterlandsbrua was built in 1654 this was the only connection between east and west. Before the bridge was called Frysja Bridge, Akers Bridge and Møllebroen. Today th ename restifies that the Gruner family owned the bridge. You used to have to pay tolls to get to the city, and this was the only bridge over the river. Battles took place here during the civil war.

    Christiania Bryggeri

    For a time, the city had many breweries and beer was promoted as a healthy drink. The Christiania brewery was located at Maridalsveien 3, where the city archives are located today.

    Ved Brenneriveien

    One of the city’s popular concert venues, Blå, is located on Brenneriveien, and on Sundays there is a market with arts and crafts. Right by the bridhe someone has put up the sign “Ingens gate”. On the opposite side we find a curved building that once housed Indigo, Akerselva’s Klaedesfabrik, which engaged in cloth dyeing, and further down is the Hausmania culture house.

    There are older industrial buildings on both sides of the street. The left side has a huge complex that used to be a brewery and food factory from 1855 to 1972, later small industry, cultural activities and offices. At number 9 there has been a textile factory since the mid 1850s,

    The street is known today for its concerts, markets, and bars.

    Norwegian Design & Architecture Centre

    Oslo’s oldest transformer station. Today it has exhibitions on design and architecture.

    Jakob Church

    The only listed church in Oslo that is not a medieval church. Consecrated in 1880 and is located in the former Ankerløkken cemetery, which was a cholera cemetery. The church was threatened with closure in the 1980s, but has remerged as a cultural church.

    Ankerbrua

    Named after one of Oslo’s richest families, the Anker family, but is also called the adventure bridge. The bronze decorations from 1937 are made by Dyre Vaa and taken from Norwegian folk tales.

    Part Six: Vaterland

    Vaterland is a district. The name comes from the Dutch Waterland and can refer to the water-stretched land at the mouth of Akerselva. Dutch schooners docked here to load timber in the 17th century. The first settlement here was older than Christiania, but the suburb was burned by the governor in 1658. After the construction of Vaterland’s Bridge in 1654, it was an important gateway to the city.

    Vaterland was a centre for peasant trade and also became a place for pubs, brothels and prisons. Vaterland was the scene of organised crime well into the 20th century. Most of the buildings in the area were demolished from the end of the 1950s in connectionw with the construction of the metro between Tøyen and Jernbanetorget. Today many big buildings are at Vaterland and a lot of the old part of the district is gone.

    Nybrua

    Here people had berths, but in the 1960s everything was levelled with the ground and the lower part of the river laid under a lid. The boat people were moved to Hovedøya and the old buildings were replaced with high-rise buildings and traffic machines. It’s like Vaterland had ever been nice. Nybrua was built in 1827 because King Karl Johan demanded a finer for the entrance than the previous bridge. The emergency room is located here.

    Hausmannsbrua

    Named after Lieutenant general Fredrik F. Hausmann. The bridge is a cast iron bridge from 1892 and is worthy of protection and equipped with ‘iron lace’. It was built exceptionally solid because the city had procured an 18-ton modern steamroller that required a strong bridge. When the bridge was expanded to five lanes in the 1980s, they managed to copy the decoration and retain the bridges appearance.

    Vaterlandsbrua

    Everyone who came from the east of the city had to go over Vaterlandsbrua. Over Vaterland went one of the towns oldest bridge connections, and the first Vaterlandsbrua was built in 1654. Earlier was the city’s sewer lines, and when Christiania’s first sewer line launched in 1846, no one found that it was sent out to Vaterlandsbrua. The sludge led to a fermentation process so that gas bubbles formed on the river surface, which the kids lit to make bangs or so-called gunpowder bits.

    Vaterland Park

    Here you’ll see the bust of Olafia Johannisdottir (1863-1924), an Icelander who lived and worked as a slum nurse among prostitutes and the poor in Vaterland until her death.

    Here the river enters a 500m long tunnel before it appears again by the sea. There used to be two more bridges down to the river, but today they are just a memory.

    Brugata

    Brugata was Christiania’s access road from the east and north after the construction of Vaterland’s Bridge in 1654. Peasant farms were built here, and some can still be seen today. The western part of the street is today dominated by restaurants, immigrant shops, and a shopping centre.

    Number 3 Is Teddy’s Soft Bar, which opened in 1958. In the backyard you can see the remains of a peasant farm that was probably built in the middle of the 18th century.

    Brugata 6 was a farm built in the 1760s.

    Brugata 9 is Den Røde Mille. The house is from 1870 and it is built on the foundation of a house that stood there in the 18th century.

    Number 14 is a half-timbered house from the end of the 18th century. It used to have a guest house on the ground floor.

    End of the Walk

    The walk ends at Brugata, where you can turn right off the river and make your way into the city. Brugata is only a couple blocks from Oslo Central Station.

    I hope you enjoyed this beautiful walk down the Akerselva River! Let me know in the comments what you think about the walk. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide
  • Ålesund, Hurtigruten, Walking Guides

    Highlights of Ålesund Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Highlights of Ålesund Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Located on the west coast of Norway, Ålesund is a town not to be missed. The town is famous for its Art Nouveau architecture and has regularly been voted Norway’s most beautiful city. But it’s beauty arose from devastation; in 1904 a fire devastated the entire city, with almost all the wooden buildings in Ålesund destroyed. Like a phoenix, Ålesund rose from the ashes and is now a lively, thriving community.

    This walking guide is designed for people visiting on the coastal ferry but is suited to everyone. The walk starts at the Hurtigruten pier and ends at the hiking path for Mt. Aksla.

    The online version is simplified; if you want something with directions, depth and recommendations of things to do, consider buying our downloadable version. 

    In this article...

    The E39 Highway

    Ålesund is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    The E39 Highway
    Ålesund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Ålesund is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Ålesund Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins at the Hurtigruten pier. 

    Skateflukaia & Skansekaia

    These are two piers that are located between the Hurtigruten pier and the tourist office. 

    Here you’ll find a national monument commemorating the Shetland Bus, which ran between Ålesund and the Shetland islands between 1940 and 1945. During World War II Ålesund was described as ‘Little London’ because of the illegal resistance activity in town and because so many people managed to escape to England via Ålesund.

    The monument was unveiled by Crown Prince Haakon on the 8th of May 1995. 

    There is another monument here for the fire of 1904. It is a row of four columns with images of the devastation from the fire. 

    Kongens gate

    Kongens gate is where you will see some beautiful examples of the Art Nouveau architecture. Start at the higher numbers and work your way down. 

    Kongens gate 28

    This is home to the Bjørknes School. You can see a difference in architecture compared to number 25. Both were built in the same period after the fire, but number 28 is more inspired by Central European art nouveau, while number 25 is inspired by Old Norse design, and it has taken inspiration from stave church buildings in Norway that fused Norse and Christian religions.

    Kongens gate 25

    The building burnt down in 1970. The only thing that was intact after the fire was the façade facing Kongens gate. There were discussions about demolishing it, but the town planning manager convinced the owner that it could survive.

    Kongens gate 21

    Number 21 is inspired by the Norwegian dragon style, which drew its motifs from the Norwegian Viking period.

    Kongens gate 18

    Kongens gate 18 is interesting because the building is actually a copy of the building that used to stand there. The original building was very dilapidated by the 1970s, so it was torn down and rebuilt as a copy. 

    Kongens gate 10B

    Kongens gate 10B is the most unique building on the street. The shape results from the rebuilding after the fire. It broadens out as it goes back. The building is so narrow that access to the upper floors is via the neighbour’s front door. The architect Karl Norum designed the building. The stone cladding is heritage listed.

    The Thousand Steps and Lihauggata

    Despite being known as ‘The Thousand Steps’, these 53 steps lead up to Lihauggata, one of the few remaining hills in town.

    Many of the original hills have been blasted away and flattened out as Ålesund was developed.

    The only victim of the town fire lived here. Ironically enough, she was the next-door neighbour of the fire station, which was also here. She was an older lady who safely escaped the fire, but decided she must take her possessions with her, so she returned to her home.

    Kongens gate 6

    This is a good example of well-preserved Årt Nouveau where the old style is looked after.

    Avisgutten

    On Kongens gate you’ll see a statue of a paperboy. It was donated to Ålesund by the newspaper in 1998.

    St. Olavs Plass & the Rønneberg Building

    At the end of Kongens gate you’ll cross a square called St. Olavs Plass.

    Walk out of Kongens gate, cross St. Olavs square and continue towards the Rønneberg Building (Notenesgate 9). The Rønneberg building was built for the Carl E. Rønneberg and Sons company in 1907 by the waterfront and was a trading company. This area is where the most traditional Ålesund companies have been since 1812. The building is clad in local light marble.

    Most of St. Olavs Plass and the roads here are built on reclaimed land.

    Arbeideren

    Arbeideren is the former trade union building that was completed in 1906. The distinctive façade is a mix of Art Nouveau detailing and ornamentation.

    It is now one of Norway’s finest public festivity centres and it is an important part of Ålesund’s social and cultural life.  

    On the other side of the building from where you are you can see ‘Arbeiderforening’ written on the building, which refers to the trade union. 

    Ålesund Strait

    Ålesund is spread out over multiple islands. The islands are interconnected by bridges and subsea tunnels. Ålesund’s town centre is built around the narrow sound Ålesundet, between the islands Åspøya in the west and Nørvøya in the east.

    From here you get a good view of the strait that runs through Ålesund. The ‘sund’ in ‘Ålesund’ means ‘strait’. 

    Art Nouveau Centre

    This is the old Swan pharmacy, built as a chemists shop and private residence for the Øwre family. The building was later bought by the Ålesund Savings Bank and was restored externally.

    The actual chemist’s shop is still intact inside. The chemist’s shop is one of the oldest institutions in Ålesund. From as early as 1819 there was a chemist here, until it closed in 2001 and the Art Nouveau Centre moved in. The centre has exhibitions spread across three floors. They have art nouveau ads, jewellery, and several multimedia presentations. The cobblestone is from 1915 – before then it was unpaved and quite dusty and muddy. 

    The Herring Wife

    Across the street from the Art Nouveau Centre is a statue of the herring wife – commemorating the role women had here in Ålesund. They were primarily the sellers of the fish. 

    Ålesund Church

    The church was ready to be consecrated in September 1909, so it is not an old church. However, the old Ålesund Church used to stand on the same site. 

    The first Ålesund Church was built in 1854. It was 50 years old when it burned down. The architectural competition jury received 63 proposals in response to its invitation to tender a new church.

    The church is heavily inspired by medieval times and therefore had small windows, making it very dark. The architect combined Norwegian church architecture with Jugendstil.

    Nedre Strandgate, Prestbrygge and Storneskaia

    This area is where historically the klippfisk (clipfish in English) was loaded onto boats. 

    Ålesund is one of the biggest export ports in Norway for klippfisk. This is without a doubt the most important basis for Ålesund’s growth as a trading town.

    Ålesund Town Hall

    Ålesund Town Hall is one of the classic 1970s style office buildings in Norway. It has been voted the second-ugliest building in Norway, and rightly so!

    Kaiser Wilhelms Gate

    The area here is called Kipervika and is named after the barrel makers who lived here. In the 1950s the sea came up to where the benches are. 

    The street is named after Kaiser Wilhelm. He often holidayed in the Norwegian fjords on his yacht Hohenzollern and was a great admirer of the west country landscape on the Sunnmøre Fjords. When he heard about the fire in Ålesund he ordered three fully loaded ships carrying food, medicine, building materials and blankets to Ålesund. Help also came from other parts of the world, but the assistance from Kaiser Wilhelm II was magnificent and he stole the show and overshadowed the other providers of assistance.

    Ålesund's Old Prison

    On the corner of Rådhusgata you’ll see the old prison. The building dates to 1864; during the fire in innards were destroyed but the stone walls survived. The state lion is above the entrance. It was formerly the district Court and prison. 14 prisoners were inside at the time of the fire. When the gaoler realised the prison as going to catch fire, he left them go but told them to come back the next day. Today it’s a prison admin building.

    Ålesund Town Park

    The park was designed in 1885 with the purpose of being for the pleasure and recreation of the townsfolk, who were beginning to be inconvenienced by the noise of wagons and other racket. The pattern was the English park landscape, with footpaths winding around hillocks and between the verdant trees and flower beds. The park got a major facelift in 2010.

    The vegetation is found in other parts of the country. A surprise is the Chilean tree, the monkey-puzzle tree. It was brought to the town from South America by sailors from Ålesund at the beginning of the 1900s.

    Thanks for coming!

    I hope you enjoyed this walk around Ålesund. Be sure to go and have the best fish and chips in town close to the pier before leaving! You can find more information about Ålesund via our travel guide page. 

    Ålesund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Ålesund is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Oslo, Walking Guides

    Oslo’s Grønland Neighbourhood: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Oslo’s Grønland Neighbourhood: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Grønland is an area in Oslo with quite the reputation. It is known across the country for its high immigrant population, higher crime levels compared to the rest of the country, but also cheap markets and restaurants. Some people love Grønland while others call it a no-go zone.

    I love how different Grønland feels compared to the rest of Oslo. But – as a history nerd – I love the history of Grønland. Grønland grew up as a peasants neighbourhood on the main access road to historic Christiania. Many of its old buildings still remain, and we can see them on this walk.

    So – I recommend doing this walk. You’ll see the diversity of Grønland, the history of the neighbourhood, and pass some very unique buildings in Oslo’s city centre. 

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Grønland Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins at Vaterlandsparken. 

    Vaterland

    Vaterlandsparken is located behind the Radisson Blu Hotel and Oslo Bus Terminal. 

    Vaterland is a very old and interesting neighbhourhood. The name is actually a Dutch word (for Waterland) as Dutch schooners began coming here to load timber that had been floated down in the river. They first started coming here in the 17th century. 

    Vaterland Bridge

    The bridge that you are crossing was originally built in 1654, though it was rebuilt in the 1830s. The bridge was first painted in 1685, when this area was a richly populated area with a lot of businesses operating. In 1868, there were 11 pubs here. Here is a painting of the bridge from 1685. We are looking down the Akers River out to the Oslofjord, so you will be crossing the bridge from right to left in this picture. 

    Apotek Hjorten & Workers Housing

    This beautiful building was built as a pharmacy in 1857 and was the fifth pharmacy to be built in Christiania. Today the building is used by the restaurant Dattera til Hagen but the interior of the pharmacy has been preserved over at the Folkemuseum in Oslo. Number 12, the brick building next to it, was built by the Company for the Construction of Workers Housing and is Oslo’s oldest preserved workers dwellings. 

    Grønland Square

    Grønland Square was established in the 1860s as a cattle square, where farmers would bring their cattle in for sale. Today most of the square is gone as those apartment buildings were constructed in 1989. The square today is something of a market with good fruits and vegetables for sale at prices somewhat cheaper than the rest of Oslo. Locals know that the bars around here have some of the cheapest beer in the city. 

    Across the street, you’ll notice some older buildings including some wooden ones. 

    Asylet

    Asylet is across the street from the square and has a cultural heritage blue plaque on it. 

    The building was built for a merchant around 1730 but was expanded in 1798. The house became a childrens asylum between 1839 and 1865. ‘Asylum’ means something different in Norway; it operated very similar to an orphange. Children could get a basic education here and be sponsored by the more well-off in town. The building was a so-called ‘rescue institution for abandoned, neglected and morally depraved children of both sexes’.

    Intercultural Museum

    The Intercultural Museum is a fitting museum for this neighbourhood. The goal is to promote intercultural understanding and respect. The building used to be a police station, which also draws interesting connections. The permanent exhibition documenting the history of immigration in Norway and the cultural changes from the last few decades is very interesting. There are rotating exhibitions of artwork from people with different nationalities that are housed inside the old prison cells. The Intercultural Museum won the prize for the best Norwegian museum in 2006. 

    Grønlandsleiret

    The name of the road we are walking on now changes to Grønlandsleiret. Grønlandsleiret is the old road that connects Christiania with Gamle Oslo. The road was paved in the 19th century with the remains of Hallvards Cathedral, a medieval cathedral that was damaged by fire and abandoned when the city was moved.

    There are some lovely historic buildings along Grønlandsleiret. 

    Tøyengata

    Tøyengata is a well-preserved street with many buildings from the 1800s.

    The homes were renovated in 1982. Before then the homes were uninsulated and it was common for water to freeze in the pipes in the winter. Rats were also often seen on the street, and you had to turn off the heating to have enough electricity to cook.Now many of them are small businesses but it gives a nice look at what houses here used to look like.

    If you want to walk down, there are some interesting houses.

    Number 10 was considered a ‘rural house’ when it was built around 1827. In 1865, it was documented that 27 people were living in the house. It was owned by labourer Johan Jensen who lived there with his wife and four children plus a ship’s stoker, a widow who sold beer, a shoemaker, a sailor, and other various craftsmen.

    The stateliest house on the street is number 24, which was built in 1825 for the sailor Rasmus Hansen and ship carpenter Ole Abrahamsen. The building was expanded to have a second floor in 1857 and in 1865 it was documented that 37 people lived in the house.

    Olympen Restaurant

    Known as ‘Lompa’ by the locals, Olympen is a well-preserved historic beer hall that has been in operation since 1892. The building itself is a little older; in 1872 it was a warehouse that was fitted with a bowling alley. Schous Brewery bought the building in 1892 and since then it has operated as a beer hall. Restaurant operations began in 1912. It is highly recommended to go here for a drink or for a meal. Just look at the interior – it is so well preserved!

    Norwegian Fire Museum

    The building that today houses the Oslo Fire Museum is the old Grønland Fire Station. The Grønland Fire Station opened in 1866, though it has been rebuilt several times. The building has also been changed when they transitioned from using horses to using vehicles. Stables are still inside the building, though. The fire station closed in 1978. There are several vintage fire trucks parked in the window. 

    Inside the complex are also two organisations called ‘the Substance Abuse Agency’ and ‘Uteseksjonen’, both of which aim to prevent drug abuse. 

    Grønland Church

    Next to the fire museum is Grønland Church. The church was built in 1869 out of brick in the neo-Romanesque style. It has 800 seats, making it one of the larger churches in Norway. It is the largest church in Oslo. However, it has one of Oslo’s lowest membership numbers. After all, it is a Lutheran church in a mostly Muslim neighbourhood. 

    The church is often nicknamed ‘the cathedral of the east end’. 

    Oslo Prison

    Oslo Prison is one of the largest prisons in the country with approximately 250 inmates. The building itself is historic; it was built in the 1840s and opened as a prison in 1851. It used the Philadelphia system, which meant that prisons were kept in isolation in solitary cells. The idea was that it would make them repent their sins and they wouldn’t be negatively influenced by other prisoners.

    The oldest building, Division A,  closed in 2017, while Division B and C still operate. Division C is for inmates with substance abuse problems who want to use their sentence to change their habits. 

    Oslo Police House

    Oslo Prison is one of the largest prisons in the country with approximately 250 inmates. The building itself is historic; it was built in the 1840s and opened as a prison in 1851. It used the Philadelphia system, which meant that prisons were kept in isolation in solitary cells. The idea was that it would make them repent their sins and they wouldn’t be negatively influenced by other prisoners.

    The oldest building, Division A,  closed in 2017, while Division B and C still operate. Division C is for inmates with substance abuse problems who want to use their sentence to change their habits. 

    World Islamic Mission

    This is the Norwegian branch of the World Islamic Mission. It was established in October 1984 by Norwegian Muslims with a Pakistani background. 

    The walls of the building are decorated with tiles from Iran and Spain, and the tiling was mostly done by Iranian craftsmen. The caligraphy is from the Koran and is a central motif both on the facade and on the wall in front of the main hall.

    This is one of Norway’s largest Muslim congregations with 5000 members. 

    Thanks for coming!

    I hope you enjoyed this walk around Grønland. Be sure to check out one of the eateries before leaving – this is where you find the good, spicy and cheap meals!

    Oslo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide