Hammerfest

  • Hammerfest, National Highways, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: Skaidi to Hammerfest on the Rv94

    Drive it Yourself: The Rv94 from Skaidi to Hammerfest

    This short drive from Skaidi to Hammerfest will take you through an isolated region in Finnmark. Just as you feel you have driven to the end of the world, you turn a bend and there is the modern, thriving city of Hammerfest.

    In this article...

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    The drive: the Rv94 from Skaidi to Hammerfest

    Skaidi

    Town

    Skaidi is a small village and major traffic hub in Northern Norway. In the 1940s, the Skaidi Mountain Lodge and Station was built. Today it’s an important point to stop if you need a rest on the long road journeys.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station, various electric car charging stations, a cafe and a hotel.

    Repparfjorden

    Fjord

    Repparfjorden is a fjord located southeast of the island Kvaløya, where Hammerfest is. The fjord is quite shallow with an average depth of 40-60 metres and a maximum depth of 123 metres. There are strong currents at the bottom of the fjord.

    Kvalsund

    Town

    Kvalsund is a small village and former municipality in Finnmark. It was its own municipality until 2020, when it was merged with Hammerfest. The name directly translates to the whale strait, refering to the whaling that used to take place in the area. The name of the island Kvaløya means ‘whale island’.

    The village used to be known as “Finnbyen”, referring to the Coastal Sami settlement in the area. Until a few hundred years ago, the Coast Sami culture was completely dominant in Kvalsund. Norwegian and Kven immigration soon made the area multicultural, and during the ‘Norwegianisation’ process of the late 19th/early 20th century, most of the culture was lost. One of the only villages to still have the Coastal Sami culture is Kokelv.

    Kvalsund is one of the areas in Finnmark county with the most cabins that are especially used by people from Hammerfest. There is good salmon fishing in the fjord and there are nice hiking trails in the area.

    Kvalsund Bridge

    Bridge

    The Kvalsund Bridge is a suspension bridge over the Kvalsundet strait, linking the mainland to the island of Kvaløya. The bridge is 741 metres (2,431 ft) long and has 11 spans. It is the northernmost suspension bridge in the world.

    Akkarfjord

    Village

    Akkarfjord is a small fishing village with a population of around 80. There is a ferry service to Hammerfest as well as school. The main industry in the village is fish farming. Sheep farming and fishing tourism are smaller industries.

    Hammerfest

    Hammerfest is the northernmost city in the world with a population over 10,000 people. The town has an ice-free harbour and is regarded as one of the oldest cities in Northern Norway (along with Vardø). People have been living and trading here for hundreds of years. Hammerfest rose to prominence in the 18th and 19th centuries due to its proximity to the Arctic hunting areas.

    In town you’ll find the Reconstruction Museum, which documents what happened to Hammerfest during World War II, as well as the subsequent reconstruction of the region. The address for the museum is Kirkegata 19, 9600 Hammerfest.

    There’s also the Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society, which is neither royal nor ancient (nor are there polar bears in Hammerfest) but it’s a fun little club to commemorate the history of Arctic hunting and trade. Become a member!

    Hammerfest Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Hammerfest, History, Tromsø, Vardø

    A Brief History of the Pomor Trade

    A Brief History of the Pomor Trade

    When you visit Northern Norway, chances are you’ll come across something called the Pomor Trade. When I first started visiting Finnmark, I would typically disregard any mention of the Pomors as a small part of history here that had little importance. However, after visiting Vardø back in September 2023, I came to realise just how vital the Pomors had been to the development of Northern Norway.

    I’ve put together this article as a short historic overview of the Pomors. Perhaps it’ll benefit your own trip to Northern Norway!

    In this article...

    VARDØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    What is a Pomor?

    This took me way too long to figure out. A “Pomor” is actually an ethnographic group that come from Russian settlers from around the region of Novgorod. They came to the White Sea region hundreds of years ago, following the various river systems through Russia. The word ‘Pomor’ derives from the word ‘Pomorsky’ (which means ‘maritime’) and is a word used to describe the coast of the White Sea. 

    Historic Trade Between Russia and Norway & Development of the Pomor Trade

    The people of Norway and Russia have been trading for hundreds of years. In fact, it can be traced back to the Viking Age. The Russians were known to also trade with the Sami people. 

    Trade between Russians and the Norwegians began to come into its modern form when the trade monopoly in Bergen was legalised. Basically, the King said that all foreign merchants had to go to Bergen, and all fishermen had to sell their catch in Bergen. 

    However, for the fishermen this was tough. In the colder months it was no problem as the fish could stay preserved for the long journey, but for a few weeks over the summer the temperatures were too warm and the fish risked going bad.

    The Pomors found a way to exploit this – they could buy the fish directly from the fishermen (back then it was common to go through a middleman, which also drove up prices). It benefitted the fishermen, too – they could sell direct, the fish wouldn’t go bad, and they were able to get supplies from the Pomors without having to all the way to Bergen. Was it a little illegal? Sure. But back then Northern Norway didn’t have much law enforcement, so they were able to get away with it. 

    The beginning of the Pomor Trade and important trade connections

    The beginning of the Pomor Trade is generally regarded to be in the early 18th century, simply because trade began to become more organised. 

    At first, the trade was a barter trade between people in the area, who traded grain products from Russia with fish products from Norway. However, money began to be used in the early 18th century, and in some places in Northern Norway the ruble was used as a currency. Trading with the Pomors also originally had no taxes or customs fees. 

    The trade always involved the Pomors coming to Norway; the Norwegians rarely travelled to Russia. The Pomors would bring wheats and grains, but starting in the 18th century they began bringing rye flour, which was important for the Norwegians and another reason the Pomor trade officially began around that time. The grain was grown inland around the Volga River and then transported along the White Sea. 

    The trade of grain was vital for the Norwegians as it doesn’t grow along the coast. Also, in Norway in the 18th century there were several crop failures and the price of rye in Bergen increased fivefold. For the fishermen, having the Pomors come directly to them and selling the grains and flour at good prices was essential for survival. 

    In addition to rye and wheat flour, the Pomors carried other food, such as oatmeal, salt, peas, meat and dairy products. Other useful merchandise was also carried, such as iron, timber, tar, birch bark, candles, cooking pots, hemp, rope and canvas. They also brought luxury products, such as candy, soap, porcelain and wood carvings.

    From the Norwegians they would take fish of various sorts, mainly Atlantic cod and dry saithe, but also Atlantic halibut and haddock.

    Where did they trade?

    The main centre of the Pomor Trade in Norway was Vardø, which is located close to the Russian border. The harbour in Vardø could at times have over 100 Russian vessels moored simultaneously, and the town had a Russian consulate. 

    Other towns that were important for the Pomors include Hamningberg (a now abandoned fishing village) and Hammerfest, though the Pomors did trade in other places like Vadsø and Kjøllefjord. Tromsø gained trading privileges a few years later and was given the monopoly for trading with the Pomors in the region of Troms. Eventually the Pomors were trading as far south as the Lofoten Islands. 

    In Russia, the city of Arkangelsk was the centre of Pomor Trade, and it was founded in 1584 as a trade centre for the White Sea. 

    Arkangelsk 1896

    Attempts at Regulation

    As the Pomor Trade grew somewhat illegally, when Norwegian sovereignty was enforced over Northern Norway, there began to be attempts to control the Pomor Trade. 

    Already back in 1316 the King of the time, King Håkon V, prevented foreigners from trading in Northern Norway. All foreign ships had to stop in Bergen. 

    Until the Reformation in 1537, the trade between the North and the Hanseatic League in Bergen was controlled by the archbishop in Trondheim. After the Reformation, the privileges of trade were handed from the church to the citizens of Bergen and Trondheim, giving them a monopoly. 

    There are reports of Russians trading illegally from the 17th century onwards. If the Russians and Norwegians were caught trading outside of Bergen, the Norwegians would be denied winter supplies from Norwegian traders. This lasted until 1715. 

    In the late 18th century, trade was placed under control of the King and trading houses of Copenhagen. In 1783 the government in Copenhagen decided that the Pomor Trade should be somewhat legalised, and that North Norwegians should get their grain from the Russians rather than Denmark. The Danish King Christian VII gave Vardø, Hammerfest and Tromsø status of trading towns in order to regulate the Pomor trade better. 

    However, there was one thing in the way. The fact that the Pomors could trade freely with the fishermen was bad for the government, who were missing out on their precious taxes. So, it was made illegal. Eventually it was made legal again, but the Pomors could only trade directly with fishermen in the short weeks where the warm climate makes it difficult to preserve fish. 

    Napoleonic Wars

    The Pomor Trade was targeted by the British during the Napoleonic Wars. During the Gunboat War, the United Kingdom put a trade embargo on Denmark-Norway. This made the Pomor Trade almost essential for survival for the North Norwegians, and they got a special decree legalising direct trade between the Pomors and fishermen in 1809. 

    During the Anglo-Russian War, the British government established a blockade along the Norwegian coast. One of their goals was to stop the Pomor Trade and cut off supply lines of goods from Arkangelsk. The Norwegians responded by fortifying the important harbours, such as Hammerfest. In 1810, the Norwegians established a special naval squadron called “The Finnmark Squadron” to protect the Pomor Trade.

    However, despite all this the British did manage to bomb and heavily damage Hammerfest. 

    The Golden Age and Rapid End

    Throughout the 19th century the conditions in Norway began to improve and the dependence on grain from Russia began to decline. Eventually the trade privileges and rules were lifted in 1870, and the Pomors were more or less free to come as they please. These lighter regulations led to the Pomors modernising their vessels and by 1870, 400 Russian Pomor vessels visited Tromsø. Normally 300 vessels would visit all of Norway in one year. By 1900, Russia was Norway’s fourth most important trade partner, and rye flour remained the most important commodity. After 1910, less flour was traded, and the Russians paid for the fish with money instead. 

    Things sounded like they were going well, but everything ended abruptly in 1917, when the Russian Revolution ended all trade. This had understandable negative effects on the economy of Northern Norway, especially for the coastal communities as the fishermen no longer had the possibility to see their summer catch. Some Russian vessels still did come. The last vessel came in 1929, when Joseph Stalin’s collectivization came into full effect, ending private property rights and persecuting merchants. 

    Lasting impact of the Pomors

    It’s important to not understate the lasting effect the Pomor Trade had on the coastal communities in Northern Norway. Many of the villages along the Finnmark coast developed in the 19th century thanks to the Pomor Trade, and were able to afford luxuries they otherwise wouldn’t get. It also led to a good relationship between the two countries, and in 1875 there was even a regular steamship service between Arkangelsk and Vardø. This allowed for Russian tourism and seasonal workers in Finnmark. 

    Often the same Pomor vessels would visit the same place year after year, and the Norwegians got to know the crew. The Russians and the trade with them had high esteem in Northern Norway and they were known for being friendly. The people of Northern Norway also got an insight into a difficult culture and it in turn affected Norwegian culture. 

    Lastly, and also perhaps most interesting, a pidgin language developed between the Pomors and the North Norwegians called Russenorsk. Russenorsk has a restricted grammar mostly related to Arctic fishing and trading. You can find some examples of Russenorsk on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russenorsk

    Where to go from here

    If you want to learn more about the Pomor Trade, visit the city of Vardø, which is home to the Pomor Museum. The city also has wooden warehouses still standing from the Pomor time. You can read about Vardø on our travel guide page. 

    VARDØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Please leave any questions or comments below!

  • Hammerfest, Honningsvag, Road-trips, Sami, Scenic Drives

    Drive it Yourself: Honningsvåg to Hammerfest

    Drive it Yourself: Honningsvåg to Hammerfest

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Honningsvåg to Hammerfest

    Honningsvåg

    This drive begins in Honningsvåg, the northernmost city in the world. You can find a detailed overview to Honningsvåg via the link below. 

    Honningsvåg Travel Guide

    North Cape Tunnel

    Tunnel

    North Cape Tunnel is an underwater road tunnel that runs between the island of Magerøya and the Norwegian mainland. The total length of the tunnel is 6.8km and it goes 212 metres below sea level. The tunnel opened in 1999, replacing a ferry that used to operate in roughly the same spot.

    The tunnel has cold gates at each end that keep the cold out in the winter. This is done to prevent ice formation in the rock walls, and the gates open automatically when a car is approaching. The gates remain open in the summer.  

    Kåfjord

    Fjord

    Kåfjord is a fjord and small village located just after the tunnel. This is where the ferry used to leave before the tunnel was completed.

    Repvåg

    Village

    Repvåg is a tiny fishing village located on the side of the highway. Historically it was an important fishing and trading place in Finnmark, especially during the Pomor Trade with Russia. Several settlements from the Stone Age have been found here. Today the village only has around 14 residents.

    There is a large beach outside the village called Stranda, which used to have a large coastal Sami population and is the last area in the municipality that is still characterised by some coastal Sami culture. Today only some of the residents speak a Sami language. The beach has a number of important cultural monuments, hunting pits, graves and tufts.

    Hammerfest

    On the right you will pass the right-turn that will take you to the Havøysund Tourist Road, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. That drive has been covered in a separate article, which you can view below. 

    Havøysund Tourist Road

    Hammerfest Municipality

    Hammerfest is a large municipality in Northern Norway. The main town is Hammerfest, which is located off the mainland on the island Kvaløya. The coat-of-arms depicts a polar bear, which was chosen as the symbol for fishing in the polar seas in Northern Norway.

    Skaidi

    Village

    Skaidi is a small village and major traffic hub in Northern Norway. In the 1940s, the Skaidi Mountain Lodge and Station was built. Today it’s an important point to stop if you need a rest on the long road journeys.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station, various electric car charging stations, a cafe and a hotel. 

    Repparfjorden

    Fjord

    Repparfjorden is a fjord located southeast of the island Kvaløya, where Hammerfest is. The fjord is quite shallow with an average depth of 40-60 metres and a maximum depth of 123 metres. There are strong currents at the bottom of the fjord.

    Mining used to take place in this area for copper. The deposits were found around the year 1900 and between 1972 and 1978 Folldal Verk (the mine near Røros) ran the operations. More mining is planned in the area, but it is meeting protests by the local community.

    Kvalsund

    Village

    Kvalsund is a small village and former municipality in Finnmark. It was its own municipality until 2020, when it was merged with Hammerfest. The name directly translates to the whale strait, refering to the whaling that used to take place in the area. The name of the island Kvaløya means ‘whale island’.

    The village used to be known as “Finnbyen”, referring to the Coastal Sami settlement in the area. Until a few hundred years ago, the Coast Sami culture was completely dominant in Kvalsund. Norwegian and Kven immigration soon made the area multicultural, and during the ‘Norwegianisation’ process of the late 19th/early 20th century, most of the culture was lost. One of the only villages to still have the Coastal Sami culture is Kokelv.

    Kvalsund is one of the areas in Finnmark county with the most cabins that are especially used by people from Hammerfest. There is good salmon fishing in the fjord and there are nice hiking trails in the area.

    Kvalsund Bridge

    Bridge

    The Kvalsund Bridge is a suspension bridge over the Kvalsundet strait, linking the mainland to the island of Kvaløya. The bridge is 741 metres (2,431 ft) long and has 11 spans. It is the northernmost suspension bridge in the world.

    Rypefjord

    Village

    Rypefjord is a village just outside Hammerfest. The village is considered more of a suburb of Hammerfest because of its proximity to the city. You’ll find a lot of industry here related to the LNG plant just off Hammerfest but also the fishing industry.

    Hammerfest

    We have made it to the city of Hammerfest! Hammerfest is the northernmost city in the world with a population over 10,000 people. The town has an ice-free harbour and is regarded as one of the oldest cities in Northern Norway (along with Vardø). People have been living and trading here for hundreds of years. Hammerfest rose to prominence in the 18th and 19th centuries due to its proximity to the Arctic hunting areas.

    On The Hidden North you’ll find a travel guide for Hammerfest including a detailed historic overview.

    Hammerfest Travel Guide

    Where to Go From Here

    From Hammerfest you can travel on to Alta or further to the Lyngen Alps, as we did. 

    Hammerfest to Lyngen

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Alta, European Highways, Hammerfest, Lyngen Alps, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: Hammerfest to the Lyngen Alps

    Drive it Yourself: Hammerfest to the Lyngen Alps

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The Drive: Hammerfest to the Lyngen Alps

    Hammerfest

    This drive begins in Hammerfest, the northernmost city in the world. You can find a detailed overview to Honningsvåg via the link below. 

    Hammerfest Travel Guide

    Rypefjord

    Village

    Rypefjord is a village just outside Hammerfest. The village is considered more of a suburb of Hammerfest because of its proximity to the city. You’ll find a lot of industry here related to the LNG plant just off Hammerfest but also the fishing industry.

    Kvalsund Bridge

    Bridge

    The Kvalsund Bridge is a suspension bridge over the Kvalsundet strait, linking the mainland to the island of Kvaløya. The bridge is 741 metres (2,431 ft) long and has 11 spans. It is the northernmost suspension bridge in the world.

    Kvalsund

    Village

    Kvalsund is a small village and former municipality in Finnmark. It was its own municipality until 2020, when it was merged with Hammerfest. The name directly translates to the whale strait, refering to the whaling that used to take place in the area. The name of the island Kvaløya means ‘whale island’.

    The village used to be known as “Finnbyen”, referring to the Coastal Sami settlement in the area. Until a few hundred years ago, the Coast Sami culture was completely dominant in Kvalsund. Norwegian and Kven immigration soon made the area multicultural, and during the ‘Norwegianisation’ process of the late 19th/early 20th century, most of the culture was lost. One of the only villages to still have the Coastal Sami culture is Kokelv.

    Kvalsund is one of the areas in Finnmark county with the most cabins that are especially used by people from Hammerfest. There is good salmon fishing in the fjord and there are nice hiking trails in the area.

    Repparfjorden

    Fjord

    Repparfjorden is a fjord located southeast of the island Kvaløya, where Hammerfest is. The fjord is quite shallow with an average depth of 40-60 metres and a maximum depth of 123 metres. There are strong currents at the bottom of the fjord.

    Mining used to take place in this area for copper. The deposits were found around the year 1900 and between 1972 and 1978 Folldal Verk (the mine near Røros) ran the operations. More mining is planned in the area, but it is meeting protests by the local community.

    Skaidi

    Village

    Skaidi is a small village and major traffic hub in Northern Norway. In the 1940s, the Skaidi Mountain Lodge and Station was built. Today it’s an important point to stop if you need a rest on the long road journeys.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station, various electric car charging stations, a cafe and a hotel. 

    Savesalta

    Alpine Ski Resort

    Sarvesalta is an alpine ski resort overlooking the Altafjord and it is the major ski resort in the area. One of the popular places to stay is the Bjørnfjell Mountain Lodge, which focuses a lot on Norwegian farming and cabin culture.

    Alta Municipality

    Alta is the most populated municipality in Finnmark county, and its population has increased by 11.3% over the last decade. The coat-of-arms represent a white arrow point on a blue background, and it is derived from the findings of quartzite arrow points dating back to the late Stone Age found in the area. The quartzite was mined in the area and tools were made from it all over Northern Norway.

    Alta is most famous for its rock carvings, which are on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The carvings date from 4,200 BC to 500BC and were likely made by the Komsa culture, an early people in Northern Norway. These are Northern Europe’s largest number of petroglyphs and rock paintings made by a hunter-gatherer population.

    Alta is first mentioned in written sources around 1500, when it was inhabited by a couple hundred Sami people. The area was a common tax country for Denmark-Norway, Sweden, and Russia. Towards the end of the 16th century there were conflicts between Sweden and Denmark over the right to tax salmon fishing in the river. In 1613, it was decided that the area of Alta belonged to Denmark-Norway, and by this time Norwegians were settling along the Altafjord.

    Around 1700, the Kven population began to settle in the area. The Kven people came from Finland and were escaping war and famine. The Kvens brought with them grain cultivation and improved the river fishing methods. In 1826, copper mines were established, and miners came from Finland, Sweden and southern Norway to take part. Several of the miners later travelled onto the United States, but many stayed and combined farming with mining.

    During World War II, the German battleship Tirpitz was kept hidden in the Altafjord for 18 months. It was so badly damaged that it had to leave the fjord. It was towed to Tromsø, where it was eventually sunk by Allied forces. The town of Alta was destroyed by the Germans in 1944 and the only building that was not burned was Alta church.

    The main industries in Alta include trading, education, and public service. The town of Alta is known for its slate industry. Alta is also the starting point for the Finnmarksløpet, the longest dog sled race in Europe.

    Alta is the second northernmost city in the world and a good place to spend some time. I’ve written a detailed travel guide to Alta, which you’ll see below.

    Alta

    The E6 runs through the city of Alta. You can choose to spend the night here or stop at the UNESCO World Heritage Site where the rock carvings are. You can also drive straight through 🙂

    A detailed travel guide to Alta can be found below. 

    Alta Travel Guide

    Kåfjorden

    Fjord

    Kåfjorden is an 8km (5 mi) long branch of the Altafjord. The fjord was used as the anchorage for the German battleship Tirpitz for much of World War II.

    Talvik

    Village

    Talvik is a small village on the western short of the Altafjord. It has been a trading centre since the 1800s and is the home of Talvik Church from 1883.

    Langfjordbotn

    Village

    Langfjordbotn is a small village located at the innermost point of the Langfjorden. The population is around 110 and the village is known for its excellent nature and in particular good conditions for growing potatoes and berries. There are five dairy farms, a school and community centre here. In summer people come to go hiking, while in winter people come to go skiing, snowmobile driving and dog sled racing.

    Kvænangen Municipality

    Kvænangen is a small but scenic municipality located in Finnmark. The municipality is located around the Kvænangen Fjord and over the Kvænangsfjellet Mountain Pass. The first part of the name refers to the Kven population that resided in the municipality, while the second part of the name comes from the Old Norse word angr meaning ‘fjord’. The population here was originally Sami, but the Kven people settled here about 300 years ago. Archaeological finds indicate people have lived here for 10,000 years.

    When the Kvens came in the 18th century, they took part in fishing, hunting and agriculture. Over time, the fisheries became an important industry and dried fish was exported to southern Norway and the rest of Europe. This attracted Norwegians, who gradually settled in the area. Today fish farming and tourism are the fastest growing industries.

    Alteidet

    Village

    Alteidet is a small coastal village located along the Lille Altafjord. The population is around 130 people and historically it was a trading post. Unfortunately the village was destroyed during World War II and wasn’t really rebuilt.

    Badderen

    Village

    Badderen is a small village with a population of around 180. Mining took place in this area throughout the 20th century; the mines were operated by the Alten Copper Works, led by the Englishman John Rice Crow. The old trading centre of Badderen became the centre for the mining operations, and an ore quay was established here.

    Sørstraumen

    Tidal Current

    Sørstraumen is the second-strongest current in Northern Europe, only beaten by Saltstraumen. We cross the bridge over the current while on the E6.

    Kvænangsfjellet

    Mountain range

    We now cross the Kvænangsfjellet mountain range. The E6 highway crosses the mountains over the mountain pass, which can close in winter in the case of snowstorms. The highest point of the road is 402m (1,319ft) and this is exposed to bad weather.

    The Kvænangsfjellet mountain area is mainly used by the Sami reindeer herders in the summer.

    Gildetun Inn

    Accommodation

    The inn on the side of the road is a well-known place for visitors to stay. It offers accommodation and meals during the tourist reason and has a nice vantage point. 7

    Nordreisa Municipality

    consists of the Reisadalen valley surrounded by mountains and high plateaus. The coat-of-arms depicts two white salmon because the Reisaelva River is one of the country’s best salmon rivers. The Reisa National Park is located in the southern part of the municipality.

    Most of the people who settled here were the Kven people from Finland, who came over in the 18th century escaping famine and war. Some inhabitants have Sami or Norwegian backgrounds.

    Most of the municipality was destroyed by retreating German troops.

    Storslett

    Village

    Storslett is the main centre for the municipality of Nordreisa. It has a small airport, schools and a local church. The town was destroyed during World War II in 1944. The village area has seen strong growth since the war.

    Rotsund

    Village

    Rotsund is a small village located along the Rotsundet strait. We are now in the northern Lyngen region, and the mountains are visible in the distance.

    Lyngen

    Mountain range

    The Lyngen Alps are a scenic mountain range that stretch 90km (56 mi) along the Lyngen Peninsula, with the Lyngen fjord to the east and the Ullsfjorden to the west.

    The mountains are popular among extreme skiers, with the highest summit being 1,833m (6,014ft) tall. The mountains are also popular with climbers.

    Where to Go From Here

    After Lyngen we continued on to Tromsø.

    Lyngen to Tromsø

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Tromsø to North Cape and back again”. You can view the entire drive via the link below. 

    From Tromsø to North Cape & Back Again Multi-Day Series

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Hammerfest, Hurtigruten

    Hammerfest Self-Guided Walking Tour: A Perfect Walk for Hurtigruten Passengers

    Hammerfest Self-Guided Walk

    One of the most popular Hurtigruten port is Hammerfest on the southbound journey, and rightly so. With Hurtigruten, you get a couple of hours to go exploring. Here’s my Hammerfest Self-Guided walking tour to make the most of your stay!

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Hammerfest is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Hammerfest Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

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    Royal & Ancient Polar Bear Society

    The Royal & Ancient Polar Bear Society is not royal and ancient at all, but it still highlights Hammerfest’s history as a polar capital. Founded in 1963 by two local businessmen, it’s more of a joke amenity for tourists. Visitors are encouraged to join the society and are invited to the annual meeting every January. You have to be in-person to sign up, so when Elvis Presley wrote to them in 1973 asking to join, they rejected him.

    Sure, it’s touristy. But still – the money goes to the tourist information centre, the museum, as well as various initiatives to protect the environment. For example, earlier this year they were helping fund the care of Hvaldimir, the Russian spy whale that made Hammerfest harbour home. I recommend coming back to the Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society – it’s got the best souvenir shop in town as well as a free exhibition about polar life and Arctic hunting. And since it’s so close to the ship, you can use your leftover time here.

    Hammerfest City Hall

    The Hammerfest City Hall is another popular stop for Hurtigruten passengers. Here you can see Hammerfest’s coat of arms: the polar bear. It’s designed to represent the town’s importance as an Arctic hunting and trading port. There aren’t any polar bears in Hammerfest, though. There are, however, reindeer! The grass around the city hall is popular for the migrating reindeer, and every year up to 3,000 reindeer pass through, eating grass and gardens. They tried to build a fence around Hammerfest to stop them coming in, but it was ineffective. If you’re in the area in early summer watch out for reindeer!

    Around the City Hall, you can see the main town square and harbour. This is a popular spot to come back to after the walk.

    Reconstruction Museum

    Eventually, you’ll get to the Museum of Reconstruction, a museum dedicated to the rebuilding effort after the Germans’ scorched earth policy destroyed the town. Before the Germans forced the public out, the locals buried their most prized possessions underground. This museum displays many of those items, such as a barber chair. It’s a small museum and something you can certainly fit into your Hammerfest visit. If you are interested in World War II history or just cool old objects, this is a worthy museum. The shop has some cute unique items, but sadly the books are in Norwegian.

    Museum of Reconstruction Opening Hours: Monday-Friday 10am – 3pm (to 4pm in summer) / Sat-Sun 11am-2pm (10am – 4pm in summer) Admission: Adult 80 NOK / Pensioner 50 NOK / Groups 10+ 50 NOK pp

    Hammerfest Chapel

    Hammerfest’s chapel would not be that interesting if it wasn’t the only building left after the Germans’ retreat. But here it is, and it’s worth seeing. The funeral chapel was built in 1937 and was only saved because it stands in the middle of the cemetery and the German’s believed it would be bad luck to burn down a cemetery.

    Hammerfest Church

    It’s believed the first church was built in Hammerfest around 1620, but the church you see today is at least the sixth church on the site. The previous church (from the mid-19th century) was destroyed by the Germans. The current church was built in the 1950s and seats 525. Its strange shape is designed to represent fish drying racks.

    If you manage to get inside, be sure to look at the stained glass windows, which illustrate the basics of Christian faith. The three mosaics under the stained glass are made in Norwegian stone and show Christ entering Jerusalem, the Last Supper and the betrayal of Christ. There are some historical elements in the church – the triptych is from the first church in Hammerfest and the two brass chandeliers are from 1750. Don’t miss the wooden carvings in front of the organ that shows six of the earlier churches in Hammerfest.

    Blue Pavilion

    The blue music pavilion was gifted to Hammerfest during the town’s 200th jubilee in 1989, and it represents the Russian architecture that used to characterise the town. Behind the pavilion you’ll find the hiking path entrance – you probably won’t have enough time to do this including my walk. If you only want to do the hike, go straight there or join the Hurtigruten excursion.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Hammerfest is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Hammerfest Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Hammerfest, History

    History of Hammerfest

    The History of Hammerfest

    The history of Hammerfest is incredibly interesting, and I always get excited explaining it to groups. Who would’ve thought that such a small town could have such a varied and complex history? Anyway, here’s the history of Hammerfest.

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Hammerfest is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Hammerfest Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Ancient Times

    Many gravesites dating back to the Stone Age can be found in the area around Hammerfest. In Leirbukt a boulder was found that had a 2,500-year-old rock carving representing a boat and three moose. Near the highway is a collection of stones called Stalloen that was a Sami sacrificial site in pre-Christian times. So people have lived here for hundreds of years, but Hammerfest didn’t gain prominence until it became an official market town.

    Hammerfest Gets Market Status

    From ancient times Hammerfest was known as a central fishing village, and it was also central to hunting in the Arctic. The first church was built in 1684, and at around that time, the population was 60. Hammerfest lost its trading right by King Frederick V of Denmark-Norway, who wanted all trade to come out of Bergen. Because of this, Russia began to ship grain to Hammerfest as part of the Pomor Trade.

    In 1789 Hammerfest was given market town rights by royal decree of Christian VII of Denmark-Norway, who was trying to establish new market towns in the Arctic after the collapse of Bergen’s trading monopoly. This makes Hammerfest, together with Vardø, the oldest town in Northern Norway.

    he reason Hammerfest was granted status is due to its strategic position – Hammerfest has long been an important way station for shipping, fishing and Arctic hunting.

    Throughout the 19th century, Hammerfest grew as a major trading port thanks to the Russian trade. The ladies wore the finest Paris fashions, while the men learned how to hunt in the Arctic from the Russians. Polar sea explorations began in the late 18th century, and at the beginning of the 20th century Hammerfest was regarded as the ‘Polar Capital of Norway’. Several major powers set up consulates in Hammerfest, including Russia, England, Holland, France, Hamburg and the United States.

    Napoleonic Wars

    Hammerfest was not spared during the Napoleonic Wars. When Denmark-Norway chose the side of France, the UK saw Hammerfest as a target due to its status as one of the main centres of commerce and transportation in the Arctic. The town was attacked on 22 July 1809 – Hammerfest’s two-cannon batteries and the British warships with a total of 32 cannons made for a surprisingly intense battle that only ended when Hammerfest ran out of gunpowder. Most of the town was able to flee, but the British raided the area over eight days, including taking the church donation box and some of the church’s silver.

    The Great Fire of 1890

    Hammerfest was struck by a fire in 1890 which started at the bakery and wiped out almost half of the houses in town. After the fire, Hammerfest received donations and humanitarian assistance from across the world, with the biggest single donor being Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany. The Kaiser had personally visited the town several times on his yacht and had great affection for the small northern settlement.

    Electric Street Lights

    In 1891, Hammerfest became the first urban settlement in Northern Europe to get electrical street lights. The invention was brought by two of the town’s merchants who had seen it demonstrated at a fair in Paris.

    Hammerfest in 1890

    Hammerfest street in 1920

    Hammerfest in 1920

    Hammerfest 1938

    World War II

    After their victory in the Norwegian Campaign, the Germans soon fortified Hammerfest and used it as a major base. The importance of Hammerfest to the Germans increased dramatically after they invaded the Soviet Union in 1941. The occupiers installed three coastal batteries in and around Hammerfest, and the main U-boat base for Finnmark was located here. It was central to the vessels attacking the Allied supply convoys to Russia.

    Hammerfest was an important base during the Second World War. The Germans occupied the town and used it as a major base after invading the Soviet Union in 1941. The main German U-boat base in the county of Finnmark was in Hammerfest, and the garrison was protected by 4,000 mines and numerous anti-aircraft guns. The garrison in Hammerfest was also protected by around 4,000 mines and numerous anti-aircraft guns.

    The first time Hammerfest was bombed by the Soviets was on 14 February 1944, doing little damage to the town. The Soviets bombed a second time on 29 August 1944, and this did significantly more damage to the buildings and infrastructure, and two local transport ships were sunk.

    Image result for hammerfest nazi occupation
    German soldiers in Hammerfest

    The population was forcibly evacuated by the Germans in the autumn of 1944 after the Soviet offensive was pushing into Norway. Hammerfest was then looted and burned to the ground by the Germans, and by 10 February 1945 the town was completely destroyed.

    The only building remaining was the chapel. Mines and munitions left over from WWII are still being found and disposed of in the Hammerfest area.

    The Museum of Reconstruction tells the story of World War II in Hammerfest.

    Post-War Growth

    Hammerfest saw massive growth in the post-war years, partly from people moving to the city after abandoning their smaller villages. The fishing industry also became important in Hammerfest.

    Chapel in 1946

    Liked reading about the history of Hammerfest? Click here to read about what Hammerfest is like today.

    Hammerfest in 1946

    Hurtigruten M/S Midnatsol in Hammerfest

    Hammerfest in 1960

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Hammerfest is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Hammerfest Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide