Bergen

  • Bergen, Walking Guides

    Walking on Water: A Walk Through the Development of Bergen’s City Centre

    Vågsbunnen: The Development of Bergen City Centre

    Explore the district of Vågsbunnen, where the city centre of Bergen was built up from the 13th century to the present day! Along the walk, you’ll see some of the oldest homes, churches, and gardens in Bergen.

    Vågsbunnen Historical Overview

    Welcome to this self-guided walk through Vågsbunnen, the name of the district that today comprises where Bergen’s city centre was from the 14th to early 20th century. This district has an original street plan and many original buildings from 1702 onwards. On our walk, we’ll learn about how the people in Bergen developed Vågsbunnen into a city centre to get away from the Hanseatic merchants at Bryggen.

    The area Vågsbunnen used to be a shallow cove that ended in a marsh area. Over time, the wetland area was replenished by natural sludge and illegal garbage dumping, not least by the craftsmen who settled here. Vågsbunnen is one of Bergen’s earliest districts: while merchants settled along Bryggen, the craftsmen settled in this area. Archaeological research shows that the earliest settlement in Vågsbunnen was close to the two churches, which were both by the waterfront. Vågsbunnen became a popular district for shoemakers. Large amounts of leather and tannery waste have been found in the soil.
    Vågsbunnen became known as a district for craftsmen: Kong Oscars Gate used to be called Tailors Street, and we still have Shoe Street (Skostredet) today. Eventually, merchants from England and Scotland settled on the shoreline of the bay and established small trading businesses there. From 1490, the trading district was taken over by Dutch merchants in an attempt to compete with the Hanseatic League.

    Bergen has suffered from many fires (lots of buildings in wood and little regulation will do that), and after a fire in the 1550s, the area turned more into a residential area for craftsmen and the bourgeoise. The governors were tired of the Hanseatic League, so Bergen’s commercial and political centre was moved away from Bryggen to Vågsbunnen. The bay was further filled in using stone from ruined churches, and new commercial buildings were built. The two main ‘allmenningen’ – or wide streets – are from this time.

    The fire of 1702 was the last major fire to destroy Vågsbunnen. Besides the stone cellars and churches, nothing remains from before 1702. After this fire, the area was further developed into an upper-class district. But this didn’t last long; in the 19th century, the bourgeoisie began to move to wider, greener districts like Kalfaret and Nygård. Meanwhile, the houses in Vågsbunnen were divided into apartments and inn, and the district became a little rough and overcrowded. Masonry was (finally) introduced, and new brick tenements went up.
    Meanwhile, Bergen was becoming industrialised. The Lungegård Lake was split in two and heavily filled in to make way for the construction of industrial plants, the train station, and the library. After the last major fire in 1916, the Little Lungegård Lake was further filled in to make a lovely park: Byparken.

    Today Vågsbunnen is still a popular area for bars, cafes, vintage shops and tattoo parlours. It’s a safe district to walk around, but it can feel a little rough in some areas. Still, no other place in Bergen has such a diverse history. Let’s begin our walk!

    In this article...

    The walk: Vågsbunnen

    Holberg Statue

    We are now standing on water! Yes, this square we are on – Vågsallmenningen – was water 1,000 years ago. What an appropriate place to begin our Walking on Water tour. Across the street, where the fish market is, is where the current shoreline of Vågen (the bay) ends. However, when Bergen was founded over 950 years ago, most of what is today the city centre was actually water. Over the centuries, the bay and lake area have gradually filled in to allow for the development of a city centre. That is what we’ll see today.

    Vågsallmenningen was filled in during the 1550s and the layout is pretty much the same today. Of course, most of the buildings are much newer. On this walk, almost all the buildings we’ll see are from after the fire of 1702. That was Bergen’s largest fire when 90% of the city burned down. The city has always used timber as a primary building material, and Bergen is best described as ‘self-grown’. There were no real street regulations until the mid-19th century. Hence, the fires. Small wooden houses close together without much planning.

    The statue here is of Ludvig Holberg. He was a Danish-Norwegian playwright, historian and philosopher from Bergen. He is known for his comedy plays, and his writings on common law were used by Danish law students for 200 years. While born in Bergen, he spent almost all his life in Copenhagen. Still, we claim him as our own. Edvard Grieg’s Holberg Suite is named after him. The statue is from the mid-19th century and is regarded as one of the finest in Bergen.

    Korskirkeallmenningen

    When walking around Bergen, “allmenningen” is a word you’ll see often. It refers to a wide, open street designed to prevent fires from spreading rapidly between buildings. Most of Bergen’s main streets end in this long word all-men-ing-en. These were Bergen’s only real form of street regulation, and the oldest ones go back to the 14th century. Most, however, are from the 16th century. Including this one.

    If we were standing here in the 1200s, we’d be standing on swampland. The church – Korskirken – would be where we see it today. It stood on a small headland by the water; the tower stands on solid rock. From the 13th century, German shoemakers began to settle to the right of the church. After a fire in 1582, the swamp was filled in. For a time, it was one of the city’s most prominent areas with beautiful houses and linden trees lining the street. Most of the buildings today are from modern times.

    Korskirken

    Korskirken is one of the earliest Bergen churches. It was likely built in wood but replaced with a stone church before 1180 when it’s first mentioned in the old Sagas. Sadly, the church has burned down in 17 of Bergen’s fires. It’s always been rebuilt in a Romanesque style, but the floorplan has changed over time. Today it is a cruciform church.

    On the northern side of the church, it’s possible to see the monogram of Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV. The portal shows damage from the fires. On the other side of the church is a memorial commemorating the dead at the Battle of Alvøen, which took place during the Napoleonic Wars.

    The church no longer operates as a regular church. Today it is a missionary church that helps the homeless and those struggling with drug and alcohol abuse.

    Hollendergaten

    Hollendergaten is one of the first merchant settlements for this part of town. Originally, merchants settled along the east side (Bryggen) and west side (Nordnes peninsula). Archaeological research shows that the street follows the shoreline from the 1000s. The first people to settle here were English merchants in the late 1200s or early 1300s. Over time, the English left and the Dutch settled into Bergen in an attempt to outperform the Hanseatic merchants. The name Hollendergaten means ‘Dutch Street’ and the name is from 1490.

    In the 1600s and 1700s, Hollendergaten became a distinguished street. Many of Bergen’s bourgeoise families lived here. In the 1800s, the bourgeoise moved into new, spacier suburbs Kalfaret and Nygård. The houses here were broken up into cramped apartments and inns.

    The side we have entered today has the church missionary (Kirkens Bymisjon), plus a hostel for the homeless (no. 15). You may see people sitting around but don’t worry – they are harmless.

    Smalgangen

    Smalgangen – ‘the Narrow Aisle’ – is first mentioned on maps from 163 but is far older. It’s a great example of what the streets in Bergen used to look like. Streets were narrow like this so as many businesses as possible could be on the bay. Smalgangen connected Hollendergaten with the piers on the bay. Look up at the first stone building on the left (in the alley). In iron, it has the date “1609” marked as well as the initials “HD”. This is one of the few houses preserved from 17th century Bergen. Further down the alley is a plaque in the wall with the inscription “Herman Schreuder Margrethe Schreuder”. There’s no date, but merchant Herman Schreuder was known to live here in the late 1600s. The plaque was discovered during an excavation in 1937 and has been placed on a 17th century stone cellar.

    Hollendergaten 12

    The white stone building on the street corner is one of the oldest houses in Bergen. A lot of people skip it when walking here because wooden buildings are more unique, but this beauty gives you an idea into what houses looked like in the 1600s if they followed the rules and built with stone instead of wood!

    Hollendergaten 10

    As the city was built up, plots had to be narrow due to the lack of available land and high demand of being close to the piers. Hollendergaten 10 is a typical example of plot size, and it has had this shape since the 1500s. The wooden part is from after the 1702 fire. As with many houses here, it was originally one storey: the second was added in 1847.

    Today the building is protected and since 1948 it has been a printing press. You’ll notice it has an exterior sign of a book. This is an ancient custom in Bergen. For a very long time, most people couldn’t read, so the businesses would not have names out the front but instead these signs. For example, bakers had pretzel signs. This book shows that this business is a printing press.

    There is a beautiful portal on the house, and on the steps, you’ll see a lion. This is supposed to reflect the coat of arms and therefore represents the king. This ties into one of the most stories from this street – that of Dyveke from Amsterdam.

    Hollendergaten 10

    As the city was built up, plots had to be narrow due to the lack of available land and high demand of being close to the piers. Hollendergaten 10 is a typical example of plot size, and it has had this shape since the 1500s. The wooden part is from after the 1702 fire. As with many houses here, it was originally one storey: the second was added in 1847.

    Today the building is protected and since 1948 it has been a printing press. You’ll notice it has an exterior sign of a book. This is an ancient custom in Bergen. For a very long time, most people couldn’t read, so the businesses would not have names out the front but instead these signs. For example, bakers had pretzel signs. This book shows that this business is a printing press.

    There is a beautiful portal on the house, and on the steps, you’ll see a lion. This is supposed to reflect the coat of arms and therefore represents the king. This ties into one of the most stories from this street – that of Dyveke from Amsterdam.

    Hollendergaten 7

    The cellar underneath is from the 1500s or 1600s. Between this house and its neighbour is a narrow alley called “Dyvekegangen”. This is the narrowest alley in Bergen: 90cm wide! Head halfway down it and turn left – you’ll see the original entrance into the cellar. There is a bit of a smell here – today the building is a wine bar. On the exterior are two signboards. One depicts King Christian III, and one depicts Dyveke. Dyveke and her mother lived in this street, and Dyveke was the mistress of King Christian III. The story is fascinating: I’ve included it at the back of this guide.

    Bryggesporen

    The little stretch of road to your left is called Bryggesporen, while the road to your right is called Kong Oscars Gate. ‘Brygge’ means ‘quay’, while ‘spord’ refers to something compressed. ‘Spord’ is a medieval word, and it marks the place where the seafront of Bryggen ended and twisted into a narrow, southbound street.

    The orange/red brick building across the street has been a bakery since at least 1675 – though the building has changed over time. This area was an area where people of various crafts settled, and being a bakery was one of the highest-end crafts. There was a baker’s guild, and they strictly limited the number of bakers in a city to 22. The bakeries were typically passed down through the family. This one was owned by the Martens family. Eventually, the bakery closed, and since then the building has been several cafes and restaurants.

    The McDonalds was built shortly after the 1702 fire and was a private residence for a wealthy merchant. The façade is from 1830 and is one of the best examples of 1830s wooden architecture.

    Kong Oscars Gate

    This is one of the oldest streets in Bergen (from the 1300s) and one of the oldest road connections in and out of the city. Bergen’s landscape is very isolated, and until the mid-19th century, it was common to come into Bergen by boat. Coming in by land was far rarer, and this road was the only one that required no use of ferries.

    The dense settlement didn’t come until the 19th century. Until the 18th century, this was an area of scattered homes and pastures for grazing animals. Eventually, it became known as an area for wealthy merchants. Further down, closer to the city border, institutions and schools were built.

    Start walking along Kong Oscars Gate. The best side to stay on is opposite McDonald’s. Shortly on our right (a few houses down) will be an excellent overview of the old cityscape.

    Korskirkeveiten & Tre-Kroneren

    When you get to the small red hotdog stand, look behind it. I know, it’s tempting to go straight for the hot dog, but stick with me. The view you see behind you – the tower of Korskirken, the wooden houses, and the stone cellar – is an excellent example of what Bergen looked like in the 1500s.

    Korskirkeveiten is one of the oldest and narrowest streets in Bergen. It is leftover from medieval times and probably marks where the shoreline was in the 1000s. Archaeological excavations have found that the area was an open beach until the 1230s. After that, large soil masses were used to fill in the area. We know this is around the time German shoemakers began to settle here. Just behind the hot dog stand is a stone cellar from the 1600s. It is one of the best examples in Bergen, but sadly not much is being done to preserve it. That can be said of this whole area: Despite being such a fantastic example of old Bergen, it has a very grungy feel. It is safe, but I can understand the discomfort.

    I do recommend taking a short detour down Korskirkeveiten, then turn right onto Magdalenegagen and back to Kong Oscars Gate.

    3-Kroneren is a staple of Bergen. It is our most famous hot dog stand and something of a cultural icon.

    Skostredet

    Skostredet has preserved its character from the old times. As the name suggests, this is where the shoemakers settled. For a very long time, the shoemakers were from Germany. Tanning remains and leather from the 1400s have been found here.
    Walk down Skostredet. You’ll notice this area has transformed into a popular street for restaurants and bars. You’ll pass a Roll & Rock American Diner – peak in the windows to see Elvis! – and their New York taxicab. Further down is a yellow wooden building on the left that’s a popular bakery. Next to it is a white building: this is an Italian restaurant called Villani. The chefs are all Italian, and I’ve had Italians say it’s better than the food they have back home!

    On the right, you’ll see a passageway under a yellow concrete building. This courtyard is as it was from 1702. It may still be under construction. If you can’t get into it, go to the entrance at Villani. It is also preserved from 1702. Villani’s outdoor courtyard has a cute umbrella display.

    Østre Skostredet

    The white wooden building on the street corner was destroyed by fire in 2017. They have just finished rebuilding it to look exactly as it did before. Google Maps Street View still shows the building as it was shortly after the fire.

    This was, until the mid-1980s, one of the best-preserved continuous rows of houses. Sadly, in the 1980s, there was a fire between numbers 4 and 6. The plots are still open. If the garage doors are open, head in for a unique glimpse at what Bergen likely looked like in the 1700s.

    As you head down this street, on your right you’ll pass the very popular Literaturhuset – a bookstore and cafe. The wooden buildings on the left are from the 1700s, while the brick buildings on the right were built up in the 1800s. Keep an eye out for the beautiful street art in this area.

    Domkirkegaten

    We’ve made it to the end of the bay! Yes, this is as far as the bay went. A large port structure was found here during archaeological excavations. In the Middle Ages, the street was a wooden bridge that crossed the inner marshy part of the bay. In the 1500s, a stone bridge was constructed here. The Cathedral stood by the bay. The houses in front of us are from immediately after the 1702 fire. Number 6 is the one with port structure remains, plus the remains of a shoemaker’s workshop. 200kg of slag was found here, meaning this was also a place for dumping waste.

    Now that we’ve reached the end of the bay, this walk slightly changes its tune. The next part of the city we will walk through was a centre for the city’s church, councillors and institutions. This was where everything got done. And we will start by heading to the centre of Bergen: The Political District.

    Rådstuplassen

    In the old times, the town hall and main square were in the middle of Bryggen. As the Hanseatic merchants began to dominate there, the locals got frustrated and in the 1550s a decision was made to relocate the town hall here. The Town Hall was put in councillor Christoffer Walkendorff’s house, and until the mid-19th century, it was known as the Prestige Quarter. Sadly, today many of the buildings have been torn down to make way for modern offices. The old council buildings remain. You can see them all from where you are standing. Here’s an overview of what they all are (feel free to walk around and get a close look!)

    The Old Courthouse

    The old courthouse is connected to the prison via a footbridge. It was also a police station. It was used until a new courthouse was completed in Nordnes in 1933.

    Bergen District Prison

    After the Prison Act was passed in Norway in 1857, 56 new prisons were built. The prison is three storeys high and has 57 cells on both sides. It’s believed the layout of the prison is adopted from the prison in Philadelphia. Conditions weren’t as bad as the prison in Philadelphia, but the windows in Bergen prison were too high for them to look out, and the inmates spent most of their time in their cells, where food was served.

    When Bergen had its last major fire in 1916, the prisoners were released and asked to return the next day, which they did. The Gestapo used the prison during the German occupation and built a new floor on the west wing in 1942. In 1943, the prison housed 44 prisoners in the Norwegian ward and 100 in the German ward. The prison closed down in 1990 and it’s currently under protection. Sadly not much is being done to maintain it, though it has been recently painted.

    Bergen Town Hall

    As mentioned above, the town hall was donated by Governor Christoffer Walkendorff. It was his house, which explains why it, well, looks like a house. The materials of the building are from one of Bergen’s original churches, the All-Saints Church. It was common in the 1500s for the wealthy to build elite stone houses for themselves using the remains of churches, which were abandoned after the Reformation. The monogram on the front (opposite side from where we came out) is of King Christian VII, indicating that it was renovated during his time.

    In the cellar is one of Bergen’s most notorious prisons. The cells had horrendous conditions: many accused of witchcraft were subject to torture here, and from 1676 two cells were used for those with mental illnesses. Until the new prison was completed in 1867, prisoners and the mentally ill would share cells. The ill were taken to Dollhuset, Bergen’s new mental facility in Sydnes.

    Stiftsgården

    This grand house was built for the Governor (‘Stifts’ refers to the job). Peasants riots would take place here during times of famine or heavy taxation. In 1765, the Governor was dragged from his house and mistreated by the crowd. His clothes were ruined, and his wig was torn to shreds.

    The house is also known as Hagerupgården after stiftsamtmann Edvard Hagerup (1781-1853), who used it as a government office in the winter. He is the grandfather of Edvard Grieg, whose full name is Edvard Hagerup Grieg. When Edvard Hagerup died in 1853, the Bergen stock exchange bought it to use it as a stock exchange, but it was too far from Torget. Instead, it became municipal offices.

    Bergen Cathedral

    This is one of the oldest churches in the Bergen. It’s from some time in the 1100s and was originally dedicated to St. Olav before coming the Cathedral during the Reformation. The church has been affected by many fires: remains of the original church are found in the northern wall.

    Have a look up at the tower. To the left of the large window, you’ll see a cannon ball stuck in the wall! This cannon call is a relic from a naval battle between English and Dutch fleets in Bergen harbour in 1665. The Dutch sought protection in Bergen, and during defence cannon fire rained upon the town causing damage. One of the cannon balls got stuck in the Cathedral. Every time it falls out, we stick it right back in!

    The Latin School

    The Latin School has traditions going back to 1152. It was a school where upper-class boys were sent to learn subjects related to priesthood. The curriculum was probably the same from the 12th century. They learned to read the bible in Latin and Greek, they learned to sing. One of the students was Gjeble Pederssøn, Bergen’s first protestant bishop. Another is Ludvig Holberg, the man whose statue we saw at the beginning of this walk. The school closed in 1840 and today it’s a school museum.

    Tanks School

    The school was funded by Hans Tank and his wife. They had no children, so donated their money to the construction of the school. They wanted subjects to move away from the church and towards practical subjects like commerce, language, natural sciences and physical education.

    The most famous student is Edvard Grieg. There used to be a plaque dedicated to him, but it was removed a year or two ago for unknown reasons. The school has been closed since 2014 and today the building is abandoned.

    Bergen Cathedral School

    This is one of Norway’s oldest schools, with traditions going back to the 12th century. The school originally stood close to the Bergen Fortress area. It was moved here during the Reformation in an attempt to align it closely with the new Protestant religion at the Cathedral. This was a school reserved for the elite. Today, it’s a public school.

    Opposite the school is the private Danielsen upper-secondary school. It’s new but is regarded as one of the top end schools in Bergen. It is private as it is associated with religion.

    Seminarium Fredericianum

    The Seminarium Fredericianum was founded in 1767 and is today Norway’s oldest kindergarten. When the school was founded, it was considered the first in Norway to focus on ‘practical’ subjects such as maths, physics, literary history, German and French. The purpose of the school was to professionalise trade in the city. Like many schools at the time, it was only for boys. The school sadly never became popular, and it closed in 1808.

    From 1851, it was operated by the Bergen Child Asylum Foundation as a place to raise children from poor homes or children with busy parents. The children were sponsored by wealthier citizens to attend the school. The girls learned needlework and singing, and the boys learned reading, writing, singing and physical education.

    Today the school is a private daycare. Look out the front – if you’re here on a weekday you may see prams/strollers chained to the daycare. This is very common! The hillside in the background is covered in my “Along the Hillside” walk.

    And there’s our overview of schools! Now we are going to pass some of the old institutions of Bergen.

    Danckert Krohn Foundation

    This building is one of the institutions established by the bourgeoise in Bergen to support the less fortunate. It was a common trend in the 1700s. This one was funded by Danckert Krohn, a wealthy merchant and businessman, as a facility for the elderly. Before Danckert built his institution, it was a nitrate plant. The walls from the plant are used as a fence around the garden. Today the centre is a welfare and medical centre for the elderly.
    The troll mural behind it is probably the most famous in the city. It’s by the same artist as the other troll mural we saw: M.u.M.

    St. Jørgens Hospital

    This hospital is dedicated to St. George, the patron saint of the uncurable sick. It is the oldest hospital in Norway; it was first mentioned in 1411 but was an old hospital back then. The hospital has always been primarily a leprosy hospital. Bergen had higher rates of leprosy compared to elsewhere in Northern Europe; this is due to Bergen’s high density and poor hygiene. In the 19th century, many physicians in Bergen began researching the disease. In 1873, Armeur Hansen discovered the leprosy bacillus.

    Marken

    Marken takes its name from the meadows and fields of Nonneseter Abbey, which we’ll learn about soon. This also marks (get it?) the southern boundary of Bergen old city. Today it is a commercial street that is very popular with the locals.

    Strømgaten

    We’re now in another part of the city that is built on water. On this side of the city we have the Lungegård Lake (covered in a separate self guided walk). This lake was filled in throughout the 19th and 20th centuries to make way for new industrial buildings and a commercial centre. Everything in front of us is built on the lake.

    Strømgaten means “The Stream Street”. As the name indicates, a stream used to run through here. Bergen Train Station is directly across from us.

    Bergen Library

    The library (from 1917) represents a short-lived trend where Scandinavian architects wanted to use raw stone for facades to express national character. If you look at the train station next door, you’ll see a similar style. Bergen Library has a rich collection of manuscripts and printed works from Bergen. Among its treasures are the music collection, a series of Edvard Grieg’s original sheets of music. Should be on display.

    Nonneseter Monastery

    The white stone building next to the library is the remains of the Nonneseter Monastery. The monastery was founded in the 1140s-1150s, and this is one of the only (complete) remains of a monastery in Norway. It operated as a monastery until the 1400s, when the women were supposedly chased out of town for being too promiscuous. In 1528 the monastery was given to Vincens Lunge, who converted it into a large estate. For the next few hundred years, it was a residence for some of Bergen’s most powerful families. Gradually it was built up and in the 19th century this became an industrial area. Today the remains of the monastery are a memorial for war victims.
    Now we cross the Bybanen tracks and head into the city park: Byparken. If you follow the narrow pathway between the bushes, you are walking through a special section of the park dedicated to Bergens rhododendrons. Bergen is famous as the city of rhododendrons.

    Enjoy More of Bergen

    Visit the travel guide page to see road-trips, restaurants, and top activities that you can do. 

    Bergen Travel Guide
  • Bergen, History, World War II

    The Most Haunted Places in Bergen

    I love haunted stories. Every time the husband and I travel somewhere, we do a ghost tour. No, I do not care for ghosts or scary stories. Instead, I like the stories of the everyday and the weird that makes a town sound more unique. Typical walking stories tend to focus on kings, the upper class, and famous people. Ghost stories focus on the lower class, the merchants, the poor. It’s fascinating. So, in the spirit of Halloween, I had to seek out the most haunted places in Bergen.

    Like any good ghost story, the haunted places of Bergen are local legend and not really written about in English. I had to dig through newspapers, Norwegian blogs, and other websites to find the good stuff. Bergen has some crazy stories, as this page will tell.

    If you know any ghost stories in Bergen (or surrounds) add them in the comments!

    Haunted Places in Bergen

    The Worst Criminals in a Dungeon at Rosenkrantz Tower

    The Rosenkrantz Tower is intimidating in its own right, but anyone who has been inside knows how eerie the basement is.

    A little bit about the tower. It was originally built in 1270 as an apartment for the King, Magnus the Lawmender. When Bergen was part of Denmark, the Danish lord Erik Rosenkrantz built the tower in its current form. There have been alterations to the tower before Rosenkrantz, but his is the most famous. The dungeon was added around the year 1500.

    The dungeon is 4m x 1m, and the ceiling is just high enough to stand up in. Light only comes through a crack in the walls, which are very damp. Imprisoned here were the worst prisoners. The cell was in use from the 16th until the 19th centuries.

    Related Articles: A Walk Through the Bergen Fortress

    Eternal Guest at the Radisson Blu Hotel

    Maybe you’ll be staying at the Radisson Blu on your stay? Skip this section if so.

    Okay, for those of you who stayed. Before a major renovation at the Radisson Blu, the staff observed strange things. The events took place on the second floor near the nightclub.

    Staff saw the ‘eternal guest’ often. In the mornings, they saw him with a beer glass. The revolving doors into the kitchen also moved without anyone being there. Some employees even reported seeing a shadow following them in the corridors. Sometimes a figure would be seen on the dance-floor after closing time.

    The staff elevator is one of the most affected places. It can only be used with a code, and it links the party rooms to the kitchen. Occasionally the elevator would stop by itself on the second floor. The doors would open and everything was completely dark. No one had been to this floor.

    So, there’s a beer-loving disco ghost wandering the party rooms of the Radisson Blu.

    Hauntings at Bryggen

    Bryggen Tracteursted

    Bryggen Tracteursted is a restaurant located behind Bryggen. It’s in a schøtstuene (assembly room) built in 1708. Of course it’s haunted.
    One night a chef was working while playing some music. Suddenly, the pans from the shelves fell off. The chef is sure that something supernatural was the cause of the events.

    The Hanseatic Games

    Bryggen in general feels very haunted. After all, this is where people have Bergen have lived since the 11th century. It’s the Hanseatic times (1360-1754) that have some creepy stories. In particular are the games that the apprentice merchants would play. One is the water game, held in May. The new boys went to ships on the bay. Their clothes were taken off and a rope tied around their waist. They were then tossed into the water and hoisted up. They repeated this several times. Out at sea, several older men waiting with a rowing boat, armed with sticks. They tried to hit the wet boys. After the ceremony, the boys went back to continue serving the dinner party. One boy is believed to have died when his belly was torn open by a protruding nail outside the ship.

    There are so many stories of these games. Another one is the smoking game. Older boys made a fire, and the younger boys were tied up in ropes and lifted up above the fire. While hanging, the boy was asked questions that he should know the answer to, mostly about the business. If he got the answers right, he was released. If he got an answer wrong, he was lowered further into the fire. One boy is said to have died. The statue outside Svensgården represents that the boy came out of the fire looking he had multiple eyes and noses.

    Lonely Mother at St. Jørgens

    St. Jørgen’s Hospital is one of the best preserved leprosy hospitals in Europe. The Nonneseter Abbey constructed the hospital in the 1300s to treat the growing number of patients. Over the years it developed into one of Bergen’s most important hospitals. Armeur Hansen discovered the cause of leprosy in Bergen and worked near the hospital.

    The patients of St. Jørgens had to live in the hospital. They were self-sufficient with their own vegetable gardens and livestock. They would share rooms roughly 2m x 2m, but had a large kitchen and common area.
    One of my friends once told me a story about the hospital. Now, every time I walk through the hospital grounds (it’s part of my walking tours) I am reminded of this haunting story. A woman was admitted to St. Jørgen’s for having leprosy and had to remain on the property. Every Sunday, a nanny would bring the woman’s children to play in the park across from the hospital. The children had been told their mother had died, and they were unsure why they were playing in this park. They were brought here so their mother could see them.

    Today St. Jørgen’s is the leprosy museum of Bergen, with exhibitions and guided tours.

    Cemeteries Around Bergen

    Cemeteries are always creepy. They are also always haunted. St. Jacobs has an interesting story. Established in 1629 as a cemetery for the poor, it is the oldest cemetery in Bergen. Back then it was very uncommon to bury the poor in marked graves. So, between 60 and 70 percent of the dead had unmarked graves. Meanwhile, the wealthy were buried inside the churches – often in the floor or crypts in the basement.

    In the 19th century, it became less common to bury the wealthy in the church. After all, imagine the smell coming from the church? Eventually, St. Jacob’s became a cemetery for the upper class. The graves of many famous Bergenser’s are there.

    An honourable mention goes to the cemetery around the Bergen Cathedral. That cemetery was the leprosy cemetery. It got so full that they made cemeteries like St. Jacobs.

    Further down the road is the Assistant Cemetery. In 2016, when they were doing work on the railway, they found skulls belonging to 50-60 people. They were likely buried in the 19th century.

    Bergen Prison

    The prison in Bergen was built in the mid-19th century. A reform in the country meant new prisons based on the Philadelphia system. This meant one prisoner per cell, and harsh treatment of each prisoner. The Bergen prison did built one cell for each prisoner, but it became known for being nice to the prisoners. During the 1916 fire, the prison was in peril. The prison management let the prisoners go, asking them to come back the next day. With one or two exceptions, the prisoners returned after the prison wasn’t lost in the fire.

    The Gestapo took over the prison in 1940. One of the Gustapo’s prisoners was Gunvor Mowinckel, who was imprisoned here 1944-45. She and her husband were sheltering refugees during the Norwegian resistance and arrested for this. After an interrogation and torture by the Gestapo, they are imprisoned here. Gunvor wrote:

    “At a point in the Gestapo HQ I was asked by Kesting (Gustapo) how many children I had. When I answered, Kesting said that the children of such a terrible individual weren’t worthy of life.

    Later that day we were transferred to the Bergen County Jail. It was a horrible time. I think the fear for the children and what was coming next was the worst.”

    The prison is now abandoned and certainly has a creepy vibe about it. While the stories aren’t exactly scary, there’s something eerie about the building.

    Town Hall Prison

    The town hall prison is creepier than the main prison. The basement had a cell for 12 prisoners and a room for the mentally ill. There was no fresh air. If they had the opportunity to move around, it was in the corridor outside their cell. No outdoor area was available to them. It wasn’t a prison but a holding cell before sentencing. Prisoners could wait up to two years in this basement cell with stench, darkness, no light, no heat, and no comfort.
    When they were sentenced, they were sent to prison or executed.

    Executions were commonplace. For example, in 1630 they executed a woman for stealing from the parish clerk. In 1632 they accused a girl of causing a shipwreck – she was clearly a witch. After torture, the girl pointed the finger at another woman for causing the disaster. This woman was also executed. If the crime was petty, prisoners were deported to Northern Norway. In 1692, wealthy merchant Jørgen Thormøhlen got permission from the King to take prisoners to his colony in the West Indies.

    As mentioned above, there was a bedlam next to the holding cell. They likely received no treatment. Back then, the mentally ill were treated poorly. For example, in 1634 they executed a man for helping treat someone back to their sanity.

    A room is still preserved in the basement, but it’s seldom open to the public.

    The Apprentice

    Kløverhuset is a shopping mall located on Strandgaten in Nordnes. The shopping mall made news many years ago for noises that were coming from it at night. The noise was so intense that the locals complained to the press. It gained so much attention that a clairvoyant came to inspect the mall. The clairvoyant said she spoke to a figure named Albert Albertsen. Turns out, he was an apprentice to Johan Petersen, the man who started Kløverhuset in 1852.

    No reportings of Albert have been made in recent times, but maybe he’s still there?

    Gestapo Headquarters

    The Gestapo was an executive branch of the German security police during the Second World War. Germans occupied Bergen during the war. The Gestapo had their headquarters in a building close to the theatre. The building became known as a torture site and a symbol of the oppressive occupying power in Norway. Brutal methods when interrogating people became a trademark of the Gestapo.

    Following the drama in Telavåg in 1942 (click here to read about that), the Gestapo brought in the villagers for interrogation. One woman, Martha, did not want to tell the Gestapo about what was happening in Telavåg. She also didn’t want to identify the Norwegians who were part of it. To force a confession, the Gestapo beat Martha with wooden sticks until she lost consciousness.

    800 to 900 prisoners were subjected to violent interrogations by the Gestapo, where they were tied up and hung up in meat hooks in the basement or in offices further upstairs. A total of six resistance fighters died as a direct result of the Gestapo’s torture. 

    The Gestapo tortured many victims to death. To avoid breaking during interrogation, several prisoners jumped to their death from the 4th and 5th floors.

    After the war, the Gestapo in Bergen were convicted of war crimes and sentenced to death. Today a memorial stands outside the building for those who were tortured and died.

    A museum is currently being developed on the fourth floor, where four graves have been preserved. Read more here.

    Octavia the Friendly Ghost

    Every theatre has a ghost, and Bergen’s is the friendliest. Her name is Octavia Sperati, and she is one of the female actors from the theatres early days. She is a useful ghost, taking care of the building and the people working there.

    There are several sightings of Octavia. She is observed as a woman in a white dress flying around the corridors. There are reports of knocking noises, footsteps in corridors, and paintings falling off the wall. Some even claim to hear her voice.

    If you want to see her, there is a portrait of her in the lobby. The painting has survived fires and bombings, so people think she’s the ghost.

    Ghosts in the Natural History Museum

    Rakkerdammen is a swamp area located close to the Natural History Museum. The swamp is gone, the remnants are now a pond. The site is an old execution site; ‘rakker’ means ‘executioner’. In the old times, children were told to avoid the swamp as the ghosts could take them into the swamp.
    It’s believed the ghosts haunt the Natural History Museum.. After all, it’s built on the old court square next to the execution site. Unusual activities are said to be the ghosts of those executed. The last execution was in 1803. Anders Lysne was beheaded for leading a farmers’ revolt against forced military service.

    Some of the objects inside the museum are also haunted. The Egypt department has 5,000-year-old statues on display that turn and move. This is even though they are behind glass. Observations of a monk have also been made. The old monk is moving around in the church exhibition area.

    Sibling Drama

    There’s sightings of ghosts near the old Munkeliv Monastery in Nordnes. It’s not from the monastery itself; the monastery is today a park. Rather, it comes from one of the houses close by. Yes, Bergen has a haunted house. The story goes that two siblings were romantically involved with one another and living in a house in Nordnes. The sister got pregnant, which is of course a bad thing. The couple killed the child when it was born. Then it is said the brother killed the sister before hanging himself.

    The park over the monastery is also said to be haunted. After all, the soil was taken from an old cemetery where Bergen’s worst criminals were buried. We’ll explore them now.

    Executions on Nordnes

    The majority of executions took place on the Nordnes Peninsula. There are two separate sites: Galgebakken and the area close to the aquarium.
    Galgebakken means ‘gallows’, and it’s where some executions took place. It is also where pillories were to punish and humiliate prisoners.

    The site close to the aquarium is famous for its witch burning. Over 100 women burned at the stake for being a witch in Bergen. The most famous is Anne Pedersdatter Beyer, who was the widow of priest Absalon Beyer. During the witch trials, it was very uncommon for upper class women like Anne to be accused of witchcraft. Typically, witches came from the lower classes. Being accused of witchcraft could be due to ordinary, everyday accidents. The worse accusations involved women taking part in accidents, most often shipwrecks. It’s believed they burned Anne for being a witch because she was unpopular in Bergen. After all, once you are accused, it was hard to fight that.

    Later on, the site was used for executions. Between 1842 and 1902, 1888 people were sentenced to death in Norway but only 20 were executed. Four people were beheaded in Bergen after 1814 on this site. One was the counterfeiter Jens Fenstad. Another was murderer Jakob Alexander Jakobsen Wallin. The latter was the last public execution in Bergen in 1876. 5,000 people were present when Jakob was executed. Those present were from the lower classes. The upper classes had read in the newspaper to stay away from the execution.

    St. Pauli Cemetery

    The site where St. Pauli Cemetery used to be is said to be the most haunted place in Bergen. The cemetery was established around 1650 for the poor and criminals of Bergen. It is often said that there were ghosts both inside and outside the walls. This is because they buried the poor in the walls. Meanwhile they buried the executed criminals outside the walls. Jens Fenstad, the counterfeiter, was buried outside the wall. A stone slab was over his grave until the end of the 19th century. A courthouse used to stand next to the cemetery.

    Ever since the cemetery was built over and the area got gas lanterns (and now modern lighting), the ghost activity has calmed down. Additionally, in the late 19th century the remains were moved to Møllendal Cemetery. The soil was used to built Nordnes Park, which they think has hauntings from the criminals.

    Resources

    histos.no / An excellent website with historical stories about Bergen

    Nordnes Republikken / A blog about the Nordnes Peninsula

    NRK.no

    BT.no

  • Bergen, Walking Guides

    Basics of Bergen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    I’ve put together a Bergen self-guided walking tour designed to inspire and plan your trip to Bergen!

    This walking tour is for those who may be in Bergen for a limited time, or may be wondering what they can do with their time. The tour doesn’t go over much history and everyday life topics that I cover in my other walking tours. Rather, it explains what you can see and do in Bergen.

    In this article, I’ve provided not just the walking tour but links to other pages on my website where I explain the topic in greater detail.

    Here we go!

    Join me on a walking tour!

    I do in-person walking tours of Bergen too! If you want to experience Bergen with a guide, click the button below to see my tours.

    https://www.ilovebergen.net

    Bergen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Start: Bryggen

    Bryggen

    Here we are on Bryggen, Bergen’s UNESCO World Heritage site. Bryggen, which is ‘wharf’ in Norwegian, was built in the 12th century. It was the commercial centre of Norway and is likely Scandinavia’s first commercial town. 

    Between 1360 and 1754, Bryggen was the trading centre of the Hanseatic League. They were a German merchant organisation that dominated trade in the Baltic and North Seas. After a fire in 1955, the first archaeological excavation took place under Bryggen. Most importantly, the remains of the first-ever warehouses were discovered along with hundreds of objects from life in the 13th century. In short, they are on display at the Bryggen Museum.

    Bergen Fortress

    If you keep walking straight ahead, you’ll reach the Bergen Fortress. Called ‘Bergenhus’, the fortress area is from the 13th century when Bergen was the capital of Norway. King Håkon Håkonsson had ‘Håkon’s Hall’ constructed for the royal wedding of his son, Magnus the Lawmender. When Magnus became King around 1270, he wrote down the first laws of Bergen (hence his name) and had the stone tower you see constructed. 

    When Norway became part of Denmark in the 16th century, the Danish lord of Bergenhus, Eric Rosenkrantz, reconstructed the tower and named it after himself. Many of the old royal buildings were torn down, including a 12th century church. The fortress became more military than royal house. During World War II, the German soldiers used Bergenhus as a base. Certainly, you can see remains of buildings from the 11th century up until World War II. 

    We don’t walk into the fortress on this Bergen self-guided walking tour; it’s worth covering on its own walk.

    Read more: A walk through the Bergen Fortress

    Bryggen Museum

    The Bryggen Museum focuses on the life of Bryggen, the wharf area in Bergen. For example, the museum displays hundreds of objects categorised according to their everyday purpose, including game pieces, hair combs, religious artefacts, clothing, and even a toilet! The museum has just undergone a major renovation and is well worth visiting. One of my favourite displays is a large television screen that goes through the development of Bryggen and all the fires we’ve had – there has been dozens! The souvenir shop is also worth visiting, and there is a café inside. 

    Bryggen Museum website

    St. Mary’s Church

    This is the oldest building in Bergen. That is to say, it was built between 1130 and 1170, St. Mary’s Church has seen the least damage from fires and remains more or less original. The two towers are from the early 14th century, and the stained glass window is the first in Norway. Inside the church is incredibly well decorated. This is because the Hanseatic League thought St. Mary’s Church was a good luck charm. Most importantly, they brought artwork from all over Europe to the church. Inside, the artworks span a period of 400 years from all over Europe. Today St. Mary’s Church is Anglican, though it was built as a Catholic Church. 

    Sandviken Area

    If you turn left and walk for around 10 minutes, you’ll reach the suburb Sandviken. Sandviken is a historic fishing village with many 18th century wooden houses. Above all, it’s very charming and very ‘Bergen’. At Sandviken you’ll find the Fisheries Museum, the Fjellveien scenic footpath, and a little further along is the Gamle Bergen open air museum. 

    We don’t walk into Sandviken on this Bergen self-guided walking tour; it’s worth covering on its own walk. For example, I’m currently putting together a Sandviken walk.

    Fløibanen Funicular

    The Fløibanen is a funicular that will take you to the top of Mt. Fløyen, one of the seven mountains that surrounds Bergen city centre. The mountain is 320m (1000ft) high and has gorgeous views from the top. Most importantly, during busy times of the day, the funicular runs continuously and takes 5-8 minutes to reach the top. You can download an app to buy tickets and see the schedule or buy on at the ticket counter. 

    Behind the funicular station you’ll see a zig-zag path to the top. Follow this if you’d rather hike to the top of Mt. Fløyen. The hike takes about 45 minutes and is considered an easy hike (by Norwegian standards). Signs will lead you to the top. 

    We don’t walk up Fløyen on this Bergen self-guided walking tour; it’s something to do on your own.

    Read more: Walking up Mt. Fløyen

    Fløibanen Website

    Lille Øvregaten

    For instance, this is just an idea of what you can find in this area. If you begin to walk on the streets on the side of the hill, you’ll find old timber houses with plenty of charm. One of my favourite things to do in this area is to just get lost! I’m working on a walking tour called ‘Along the Mountainside’ which will take you through the most secret of narrow streets. It’s due in early 2021.

    The Allmenningen Streets

    This wide street is called an ‘allmenningen’. This is a purposely built street from the 16th century designed to prevent fire spreading rapidly between buildings – you’ll notice many streets in Bergen end in the word ‘allmenningen’. 

    Kong Oscars Gate

    Kong Oscars Gate is one of the oldest roads in Bergen. It is the old highway leading to southern Norway. Along this road, you’ll find many historical buildings. Along Kong Oscars Gate and up on the hill is the same layout from after the largest fire in Bergen, 1702. Most of the buildings date from that period. 

    If you turn left and follow the road, you’ll pass the Shoe Street (Skostredet) with many cool restaurants and bars). Then you pass the Bergen Cathedral, Leprosy Hospital, and end up at the historic city gate. The city gate is around a 10-15 minute walk from where you are now. Past the gate is the wealthy area Kalfaret and the Lungegård Lake, both covered in separate walking tours.

    If you turn right, you’ll pass 18th-century wooden houses with many trendy bars and cafes. A little further down is the famous hot dog stand of Bergen. The road to the right ends at Bryggen. 

    Kong Oscars Gate is not covered in depth on this Bergen self-guided walking tour. I am working on a separate self-guided walking tour for this fascinating part of town! For example, walk up and down it on your own to see all the history here.

    Church of the Cross

    This is one of three medieval churches left in Bergen: the other two are the Bergen Cathedral (Domkirken) and St. Mary’s Church. Unlike St. Mary’s Church, Korskirken has been affected by almost every fire Bergen has had (remember – dozens!) and been rebuilt in a different style every time. The name comes from a legend that the first Korskirken was built with a piece of Christ’s cross in the walls. Today the church is used by the missionaries in Bergen.

    Torget & The Fish Market

    We are now on the square, Torget (translates to ‘the square’). Here you can see a statue of Ludvig Holberg. He’s a famous 17th/18th century writer and political figure. You may recognise the name from Edvard Grieg’s Holberg Suite. Grieg wrote the Suite on Holberg’s 200th birthday. 

    Across the street, past the statue, is the fish market. The fish market in Bergen is famous – here you can try many local products from salmon to cod to trout, tuna, and more. There’s also Red King Crab from the Barents Sea, seal oil, whale meat, paella, dried fish snacks, mussels, and anything that comes from the sea. It’s a great place to try fresh seafood. The large glass building has a seafood restaurant on the lower floor. The tourist information centre is on the higher floor. 

    Torgallmenningen

    We are now in a part of Bergen that is more modern. That is because it was affected by the last great fire of Bergen in 1916, and everything we see was rebuilt after that period.

    On Torgallmenningen you’ll find shopping centres (Galleriet and Xhibition) and many department stores. 

    The Blue Stone

    The Blue Stone is the meeting point of Bergen. Just past the Blue Stone you’ll see St. John’s Church (Johanneskirken), the largest church in Bergen. It’s from the late 19th century. If you walk up to St. John’s Church and then turn left you’ll be in the University area with museums and a botanic garden. Past that is the working-class suburb of Møhlenpris and the gorgeous Nygård Park. To the right of St. John’s is the hidden area of Sydnes – a historic timber house suburb. At the end of Sydnes is the Hurtigruten Terminal. 

    Turn to your right. At the top of the slope is a large concrete building. This is the Theatre. It was established by the famous violinist Ole Bull in 1850 as the first theatre in Norway to perform in Norwegian. Before then, Danish was seen as the language of the elite and was more widely used. Outside the theatre is a statue of Henrik Ibsen, the famous Norwegian playwright. He worked in the theatre when he was in his 20s. If you continue past the theatre you’ll be in the suburb Nordnes – regarded as one of the most picturesque suburbs of Bergen. At the end of the Nordnes Peninsula is the Bergen Aquarium.

    However, Nordnes and Sydnes are not covered in this Bergen self-guided walking tour. They will be covered in their own walks – coming soon!

    The Pavilion

    This pavilion is from the late 19th century, though it was basically replaced during the last restoration in 2019. The plants here change according to the season. 

    To the left, you’ll see a statue of Edvard Grieg. Edvard Grieg is Norway’s most famous composer. He was born in Bergen in 1843 and lived most of his life here, passing away in 1907. Grieg is attributed with showcasing Norwegian folk music and being inspired by nature. About 10km (6 mi) outside of Bergen is Troldhaugen, Edvard Grieg’s home and today a museum. It is well worth visiting, especially between May and October when they have daily lunchtime piano concerts there. 

    They play Beethoven, Mosart, etc. Just kidding, of course they play Edvard Grieg music! The brick building behind Grieg is the Telegraph Building – today it’s a department store. 

    Read more: The Edvard Grieg Museum, Troldhaugen

    To the right is another brick building. This is the first of the four KODE art galleries. These are the large collection of art galleries in Scandinavia. The first KODE gallery displays various crafted objects. The opening hours change quite a lot, so check the website for details. We’ll see the other KODE galleries at our next and last stop: Byparken

    Byparken

    Here we are at Byparken! This park was laid out in the early 20th century. Before then, this lake connected to the fjord and many people used to dock their boats in this area. I cover this topic more on my Lungegård Lake walking tour. Byparken is used for many festivals and markets, including our Christmas Market and Food Market. On Norway’s National Day, 17 May, this is where the festivities are. 

    Above all, the large mountain the background is Mt. Ulriken – the tallest of the seven Bergen mountains at 640m (2000ft). It is possible to take a cable car to the top. A minibus departs from the fish market in the summer months to take you there. 

    Between the lake and Mt. Ulriken is the train station, the library, and the bus terminal with a large shopping centre on top (Storsenter). To the left of the lake, you’ll see a row of colourful houses. Many of Bergen’s newest and coolest cafes are opening up in these houses. Behind them are 18th-century wooden houses in the area ‘Marken’ – this is also where the Leprosy Hospital is. 

    To the right of the lake are the other three KODE galleries. KODE 2 is for modern art (and has a shop and café). Most importantly, the third KODE has Bergen’s Munch exhibition as well as a very good National Romantic exhibition. KODE 4 has famous foreign artworks and an exhibition for Nicolai Astrup. it also has the highly-rated ‘Lysverket’ restaurant.

  • Bergen, Hardangerfjord, Ulvik

    Driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord

    I think one of the best ways to see Norway is by car. It may seem a little intimidating at first, with all those mountain roads, ferries, tolls, and crazy expensive petrol. But if you plan accordingly and have the budget for it, you’ll get to see the best bits of nature. And one of the best things to do is driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord.

    There are two ways to get to the Hardangerfjord from Bergen: the Hardanger Scenic Route and the main highway to Granvin through Voss. The Hardanger Scenic Route certainly sounds appealing, but if narrow fjord-side roads make you nervous, or you’re short on time, the main highway is an excellent alternative.

    (click the image to see it larger)

    I’ve done both ways so many times; my family is from the innermost part of the Hardangerfjord so we always try to make a day of it when we are going to the farm. Also, it’s common to do day tours to Hardanger from Bergen.

    For my overview, I’ve used Granvin as the end-point. It’s not really famous for anything; it’s a crossroads. From Granvin you can head to Ulvik, Eidfjord, Utne and Odda: four very popular places to spend the night. The advantages of each of them:

    The Hardanger Bridge, which you take to Eidfjord and Odda

    Where to Stay in Hardanger

    Ulvik:

    • The famous Brakanes Hotel is a good option for the night
    • Ulvik has the apple cider route, where you can visit farms and try their produce

    Eidfjord:

    • Leads up to the famous Vøringsfossen and then the scenic road over the Hardangervidda National Park down to Oslo
    • Hardanger Nature Centre is located here
    • Beware – major cruise port!

    Utne:

    • Incredibly scenic with a historic hotel
    • The Hardanger Scenic Route continues on this side of the fjord

    Odda:

    • The Ullensvang Hotel is a historic hotel
    • The popular hike to Troll Tongue starts at Tyssedal
    • Folgefonna National Park

    If you are doing this as a day-trip from Bergen and back, it’s very easy to do both roads in one day.

    Anyway, here’s my overview of what you see when driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord.

    The Hardanger Scenic Route

    The Practical Info

    Distance from Bergen to Granvin: 127km / 79.1 miles
    Time from Bergen to Granvin: 2 hours 9 minutes (not including stops)
    Toll Cost: 100 NOK [mfn]https://www.fjellinjen.no/private/toll-calculator/[/mfn]
    Open All Year? Yes.

    Hardanger Scenic Route – Official Website (English)

    The turn-off to the Hardanger Scenic Route is located at a roundabout in Trengereid. Here’s what you can see, stop at, and experience as you head towards Granvin:

    Ådland Church

    Ådland Church is a historic church located just outside Samnanger community. A church as stood on this site since the 12th century and the first church was likely a stave church. A new church was built here in 1652 and then it was replaced in 1851 by the church you see today.

    The church is used for weddings, baptisms, confirmations and service takes place every other Sunday.

    Samnanger

    Samnanger is a small village around 20km (12 miles) from Bergen, though the drive is considerably longer thanks to the mountains. It is separated from Bergen thanks to Gullfjellet, the tallest mountain in the municipality. The village grew in the early 20th century thanks to the construction of hydroelectric power plants in the area.

    The body of water you’ll see here is the Samnangerfjord, which is 22km (14 miles) long and forms the southern boundary of the Bergen peninsula.

    Facilities:
    Grocery stores (SPAR and Kiwi Bjørkheim)
    Cafe/Kro (MIX)
    Petrol Station

    Mørkhølsfossen

    Mørkhølsfossen is a waterfall located alongside the road. There’s a place to park the car and go for a short 400m walk along the river.

    Facilities:
    Rest stop

    Fossen Bratte

    Fossen Bratte is a more well-known waterfall along the Hardanger Scenic Road. The waterfall is 80m long.

    During World War II, the valley was the scene of fighting when the Germans were making their way inland. There was a barrier position put up in the bend in the road where the waterfall throws itself out. If you walk to the top of the waterfall (there is a path), you’ll see a cannon and some signage commemorating the Norwegians who lost their lives here from this fighting.

    If you walk to the bottom of the waterfall, which again is on a path, you’ll come to another memorial. In 1951, a married couple were on their honeymoon when they drove off the road here. The waterfall is nicknamed the ‘bridal veil’ and many think it’s from that, but the nickname has been used since the early 20th century.

    This is a very popular stop and the carpark is tiny.

    Facilities:
    Restrooms
    Car parking

    Eikedalen

    Once you’re on the other side of the tunnel after Fossen Bratte, you’ll see many, many cabins on the hillside. This is the area known as Eikedalen and Kvamskogen, and it’s a popular ski area for the Bergen locals.

    Eikedalen is the name of the ski centre that is soon on your left. It has the 10th longest chairlift in Northern Europe at a length of 1800m. The highest peak is Grøtet, which is 918m above sea level. In total, Eikedalen has a total of seven ski lifts with 12 slopes.

    Kvamskogen

    Kvamskogen is the name of the mountain plateau and region. In total, there are over 1700 cabins in this area; the third-highest concentration of cabins in the country.

    Historically, this was a mountain pasture of the farmers from Steinsdalen (where Steindalsfossen is). The farmers used the area to cut grass that would then be brought home by horses in the winter. Much of the wood the farmers needed was also here.

    The road you’re on was the main road between Bergen and Eastern Norway in 1907. From the post-war period onwards, the drive was increasingly difficult due to the number of parked cars on Kvamskogen. Even though the road has been widened and carparks added, it can still sometimes take a long time to pass through here.

    The Old Highways

    Once past Kvamskogen, the road has four tunnels as you make your way down to Steinsdalen (Stein Valley or ‘Rock Valley’). These four tunnels were built in the 1950s after the old highway was becoming increasingly dangerous.

    As you drive through the tunnels, there are openings on the side that shows the old road. The old road was built between 1903 and 1907, with large sections built by hand while workers hung from ropes. The rock in the mountain is ‘junk rock’ and is slowly breaking apart, meaning, there were lots of rockslides on the road. This is why the tunnels were built.

    After the last tunnel, there is a parking area to the right. However, when I stopped there recently the rock was crumbling under the carpark and the fence was almost hanging off the side. Not the safest spot to stop.

    Steinsdalsfossen

    This is one of the most famous waterfalls in Norway. You are able to walk behind the waterfall without (mostly) getting wet. It is at its most full in May-June when the snow is melting. The drop of the waterfall is 20m.

    Facilities:
    Toilets (closed October – May)
    Souvenir shops (two of them!)
    Coffee and snacks
    Information boards

    Norheimsund

    Norheimsund is a small town with a settlement of 4,399 inhabitants. It is the shopping hub for the outer Hardanger region and has plenty of shops and facilities. Norheimsund is also a traffic hub. From here, you can take a ferry to Utne and Odda, or take a bus to Bergen, Voss, Vikøy, Tørvikbygd, Jondal, Strandebarm and Kvinnherad.

    The town centre of Norheimsund was destroyed by a fire in 1932 and has been rebuilt in a functionalist architecture, so it’s not the most beautiful place. During World War II, the occupying forces had a large training camp in Norheimsund and defence installations were built against the fjord.

    The Hardanger Maritime Centre is a foundation that restores and protects different types of boats. It’s possible to visit the area during the summer season.

    Facilities
    Hotels (Thon Hoten Sandven)
    Shopping Mall (Straumen Senter)
    Grocery stores
    Sporting goods store
    Pubs, restaurants, cafes
    ATM
    Hardanger Maritime Museum & Maritime Centre
    Emergency room
    Petrol station

    Øystese

    Øystese is a small town just 7km (4 miles) from Norheimsund. The town is on the up and up, with a brand-new Hardangerfjord Hotel and Spa built alongside the fjord.

    There’s a quirky sculpture museum here with the works of Ingebrigt Vik. The building looks like it shouldn’t be in a small Norwegian village.

    Øystese itself is known for its furniture production, especially in tables. There’s also a printing press here, dairy factories and shops. The church was built in 1868 and is a typical 19th century church.

    Facilities
    Hotels (Hardangerfjord Hotel)
    Grocery stores
    Electronics shop
    Cafes/restaurants
    Pharmacy
    Petrol station
    Art House Kabuso
    Hardanger SkySpace

    Fyksesund Bridge

    Shortly after leaving Øystese you’ll cross the Fyksesund Bridge. It is 344m long with a span of 230m. It was opened by Crown Prince Olav on 9 Octobe 1937 and at the time it was Northern Europe’s longest suspension bridge.

    The fish farm on a gorgeous spring day

    Hardanger Akvasenter

    Immediately after the bridge is the Hardanger Akvasenter, an active fish farm that you are able to visit. The main display centre/museum is in Øystese, but if you book ahead you can have a tour of the fish farm. At the fish farm you’ll learn about how salmon farming works. The fish farm is owned by Lingalaks AS, which is responsible for the fish production in the area. It’s a family owned company that today has about 2.5 million fish in their farms and employs 40 people. If you stay at the Hardangerfjord Hotel, you can taste the salmon there.

    The view from the top of the farm

    Steinstø Farm

    Steinstø Fruitfarm has been owned by the same family for nine generations. If you visit the farm, you can learn about how the farm is run and how it was run in the past. There’s a shop by the road that sells fruits and berries as well as homemade apple juice, homemade jam, jellies, lefse, apple cake and souvenirs. There’s also a small café where you can have coffee and cake. Restrooms are under the building.

    In any case, it is possible to book a visit to the farm, but it’s often reserved for groups.

    Steinstø has become very popular in recent years, so if you’re visiting in summer you may see a couple tour buses parked out the front.

    Facilities
    Cafe
    Restrooms
    Shop

    Note: Their opening hours vary quite a lot throughout the year. Check the website/Facebook page before going:

    https://www.steinsto.no/english

    Steinstø Restplace

    Steinstøberget Rest Place

    The rest area is an idyllic spot with a view over the Hardangerfjord. On a clear day, you can see the Folgefonna glacier. The area is built on two levels.

    Facilities
    Toilets
    Picnic/BBQ
    Information board

    Ålvik

    Ålvik is a small town that is known throughout Norway for its industrial site. A factory was built here at the beginning of the 20th century to take advantage of the hydroelectric power from the Bjølvo waterfalls. The factory was completed in 1919, producing calcium carbide for a time. The villages population rose from 75 to 500 following the opening of the factory. In the 1920s, the company was given major sales contracts for ferrosilicon to the British steel industry. A production line for ferrochrome was established in 1934.

    The road connection to Bergen was added in 1937.

    The plant made Ålvik the most polluted place on the Hardangerfjord and at times the whole town could be covered in smog. Government environmental regulations put pressure on the company, and ferrochrome production ended in 1979. Ferrosilicon was prioritised to comply with environmental standards and furnaces were rebuilt, making it possible to recycle excess heat.

    Stopping for photos somewhere near Ålvik. Photo taken in April.

    The factory is still the village’s main employer. It is now a subsidary of Elkem, which is owned by China National Bluestar. Today the factory recycles waste from aluminium production. The hydropower plant is now owned by Statkraft.

    The Ålvik Industrial Worker’s Museum documents the village’s labour heritage through the exposition of two restored workers apartments typical to the 1920s and 1950.

    Today Ålvik has a primary school, kindergarten, nursing home, church, library, several artists and plenty of hiking trails.

    Granvin

    You’ll drive alongside the Granvinfjord before you make it to Granvin, and this part of the drive is especially narrow! The Granvinfjord is 10km (6.2 miles) long and less than 1km wide. At the end of the fjord you can see the lumber and wood products industry, which in 2019 accounted for 80% of all industry-related employment in the area. Granvin is home to one of Norway’s few spruce forests.

    The name Granvin comes from an old farm that used to stand here. The coat-of-arms is the Hardanger Fiddle, which is representative of the folk tradition of the region.

    During World War II, there was some fighting between German and Norwegian forces here. Germans landed in Granvin on the 25th of April as part of their movement towards the military camps at Voss. Four Norwegians and at least 30 Germans fell during the fighting. The population has decreased significantly since the war. 29% of the population here commute to Voss for work.

    Granvin is an agricultural area characterised by livestock, mainly sheep. There’s a fantastic shop you should visit – Kjerland Gardsbutikk – where you can look at and buy produce from all the surrounding farms.

    Facilities:
    Rental homes
    Grocery stores
    Charging station for electric cars
    Kjerland Gardsbutikk

    The Highway Through Voss

    Here’s option two! Driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord through Voss is a great option ff you’re short on time or don’t want to drive on narrow roads.

    The Practical Info

    Distance from Bergen to Granvin: 129km / 80.4 miles
    Time from Bergen to Granvin: 1 hour 52 minutes (not including stops)
    Toll Cost: 72 NOK [mfn]https://www.fjellinjen.no/private/toll-calculator/[/mfn]
    Open All Year? Yes.

    The village as seen from the Hananipa hike I did a while back

    Vaksdal

    This will be the first point of interest after going through Trengereid. Vaksdal is a small community known for the Vaksdal Mill, which was established in the late 19th century using power from the nearby waterfalls. The waterfall was first utilised with mechanical transmission of power to the mill machines. Vaksdal Mill was once the largest mill plant in Northern Europe. During World War II, there was heavy fighting in Vaksdal between the 19th and 23rd of April. Three Norwegian soldiers and one civilian and a larger, but unknown, number of German soldiers fell in Vaksdal.

    Dale

    If you love knitwear, you’ll love Dale! This small village is famous for Dale of Norway, a Norwegian knitwear brand. The business was established in 1872, when industrialist Peter Jebsen (1824 – 1892, you can see his house on my Årstad walk) first established a textile factory in Dale. After World War II, the factory developed exports of its knitted sweaters. Since 1956, Dale of Norway has designed and produced official Olympic and World Championship sweaters for the Norwegian National Alpine Ski Team. They were also later chosen to design the official sweaters for the Winter Olympic Games through the IOC, with rights to use the Olympic symbols.

    It’s possible to visit the Dale of Norway factory. If you plan ahead you can take a guided tour. If you just show up, there’s a great outlet store!

    Dale has a small church, the Dale Church, which dates to 1956 and can be seen from the road.

    Facilities
    Roadside Cafe
    Petrol station (shell)
    Dale of Norway Factory Outlet and Museum
    Grocery Stores (Coop Extra, SPAR)

    Bolstadøyri

    Bolstadøyri is a historic spot on the old route between Voss and Bergen. Before the train link was built, transfer between the two was by horse and boat. This is where the boat journey started.

    Evanger

    Evanger is a traditional West Norwegian village. The village was destroyed by a fire on the 10th of April 1923 and was rebuilt exactly how we see it today. Because of this, Evanger town centre has been regulated as a special area of protection as a culturally and historically valuable building environment. Evanger Church escaped the fire and was built in 1851.

    After that, outside the courthouse is a monument to Knute Nelson, who was born here and emigrated to the United States in 1849. He became a lawyer and politician and was for many years a senator for Minnesota.

    Evanger is famous in Norway for its cured meats. There are several companies here that specialise in the production of traditional food.

    Facilities
    BnB
    Grocery store (Landhandleri)

    The Voss River

    The Voss River is a famous salmon river. When tourism was growing in the 19th century, English ‘salmon lords’ would travel here to catch some top-notch Norwegian salmon. The biggest salmon to be caught here was 32kg! In the last few decades, the salmon population has declined due to pollution, disease and other unknown factors.

    Voss

    Welcome to Voss! There’s a lot to do in Voss, and you could easily spend a night here.

    According to legend, the people of Voss were forcibly converted to Christianity by King Olav, who later became Saint Olav. There’s a stone cross located by the lake that is said to have been erected at this time.

    The Voss Church is built on the site of an old pagan temple. The church was built in 1277 under the instruction of King Magnus the Lawmender and it is one of the few buildings that survived the bombing of World War II.

    When Germany invaded Norway on the 9th of April 1940, Voss was the main point of mobilisation for the Norwegian Army in the West since Bergen had fallen. To break down the resistance, the Luftwaffe bombed Voss on the 23rd and 24th of April and then the surrounding countryside on the 25th of April. Nine people lost their lives and the bombings completely destroyed the wood-built town centre. You’ll notice Voss has a very concrete look today; it was rebuilt cheaply during and after the war.

    Voss is known far and wide for its extreme sports. You can do skiing, water sports, skydiving, paragliding and other adventure sports here. The brand-new Voss gondola opened in 2020 and it’s used for tourists or for hikers and skiers.

    Facilities
    All the facilities of a mid-size town (groceries, shopping, ATM, petrol station, cafes and restaurants, etc)
    Toilets available at the train station
    Voss Gondola
    Hotels (Fleischer’s Hotel, Park Hotel, the brand-new Scandic Hotel)
    Voss Folk Museum

    Skjervsfossen

    Around half-way between Granvin and Voss is Skjervsfossen. Take the detour road off the main highway for this incredible sight. It’s possible to park at the top and the bottom of the waterfall and well-worth it. There’s a network of paths and stairs so you can walk around the waterfall and surrounding area.

    The historic route is called ‘Skjervet’ and forms the old highway.

    Facilities
    Toilets (closed October-May)
    Picnic/BBQ
    Information board about the area

    Granvin Church

    Shortly before arriving in Granvin you’ll pass the Granvin Church, which was built in 1726 and represents a typical example of an 18th century church building. In 2012 the church was listed for preservation as a culturally and historically important example of the richness of decoration in early 18th century churches.

    Scenic Detour to Ulvik

    If you’re planning to go to Ulvik, there’s a scenic road you can take over the mountain (rather than going along the fjord). It begins in Granvin (there’s a sign for the turn-off) and you can stop at a viewpoint overlooking Ulvik on the way back down. The road also passed the apple cider route in Ulvik.

    Driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord

    In conclusion, I hope this article has given you some ideas about how to drive from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord. In any case, there are no losers. Both drives are incredibly scenic and have unique attractions.

    If you have any comments or suggestions please mention them below!

  • Bergen, Ulvik

    How to Get to the Fjords from Bergen

    How to Get to the Fjords from Bergen

    When visiting Bergen, you’ll see all of these flyers and ferries promoting day trips to the fjords. There are so many ways to get to the fjords from Bergen, and there are so many different place-names that are unfamiliar to visitors. I decided to write an overview of which areas are the best places if you want to take a day-trip from Bergen to get to the fjords. There are better tours than others, and there are more scenic places than others, but it depends on how much time you have, your budget, and your own personal interests. Here’s how to get to the fjords from Bergen!

    In this article...

    What to consider

    How much time do you have?

    How much time do you have? From Bergen, you can either take a half-day trip or a full-day trip. The half-day trips take 3-4 hours, while the full-day trips take up to 12 hours. The more time you have, the more flexibility and chance you have to see the dramatic fjords. Half-day trips do not take you to the most dramatic places.

    What is your budget?

    Any tour from Bergen is expensive, often costing between 1000 and 2000 NOK. The half-day trips are of course cheaper, varying from 450 to 700 NOK. The more money you spend, the more you’ll see. The cheaper tours may not be worth your money as they don’t take you out to the most dramatic areas.

    Can you do it yourself?

    The ‘in a nutshell’ options are not guided and use public transport, which you can book yourself. In some cases, it works out to be cheaper.

    Do you need a guide? Possibly. It depends on your interests. I’m working on writing guides to all these places, but hiring a guide in some cases is really well worth it. You want to make sure the guide knows the areas, though. If you end up with a new guide who lives in Bergen, chances are they’ve been to the fjords just a couple times.

    The reality of seeing the fjords

    Bergen is on the coast, while the most dramatic scenery is found inland. You don’t get dramatic fjords along the coastline; instead you get rocky islands and a very flat landscape. If you want to see the most dramatic bits of nature, you have to head inland. This is when a half-day becomes a full-day.

    Spending the night

    If you get the chance, opt to spend a night in one of the small villages to break up your trip. It gives you more time to see things and enjoy the nature. Try to spend a night in places like Flåm, Balestrand, Ulvik, Eidfjord, or even Voss.

    Full day trips: The Sognefjord

    The Sognefjord is the longest fjord in Norway and the second longest in the world. You won’t have time to see the whole fjord in a day, and you don’t need to. Towards the sea, it’s quite flat and rocky (and maybe a little dull). Further inland you do get the more dramatic scenery. However, visiting the Sognefjord is perhaps best when you visit the small fjord branches off it, namely the Naeroyfjord (UNESCO World Heritage listed) and the Aurlandsfjord (where Flåm is). These are the two ‘must-see’ fjords on the Sognefjord and where most tours will take you.

    Flåm Railway

    Norway in a Nutshell

    Norway in a Nutshell (NiN) is the famous day trip that will take you to some of the most beautiful places in Western Norway. It comprises of a series of public transport routes that will take you on trains, ferries and buses past dramatic scenery. It’s a great option if you really want ‘Norway in a nutshell’, but keep in mind it’s incredibly popular in summer.

    What You Do:

    • Train from Bergen to Voss
    • Bus from Voss to Gudvangen (note – you don’t stop at Tvindefossen or Stalheim Hotel)
    • Ferry from Gudvangen – Flåm on the Naeroyfjord (the true highlight!)
    • Train from Flåm to Myrdal (the famous Flåm Railway)
    • Train from Myrdal to Bergen

    The Good Bits:

    • The Gudvangen to Flåm Ferry is incredible and is the absolute best of the best when it comes to getting a true feel for the fjords. I can’t recommend it enough
    • The Flåm Railway is incredibly famous and well worth it. You see the typical West Norwegian landscape on a 55-minute train ride!

    Things to Consider:

    • The trip takes 10-12 hours and has little time to stop and relax. You are constantly on the move, and photo-stops on the trains and buses aren’t possible.
    • Besides the Gudvangen – Flåm ferry, you don’t see fjords. You’re up in the mountains
    • Consider spending a night in Flåm to make the trip more relaxing

    Balestrand

    Sognefjord in a Nutshell

    The Sognefjord in a Nutshell is run by the same team as Norway in a Nutshell (NiN from here on in), but you take a 5.5 hour ferry cruise from Flåm to Bergen instead of taking a train back. Is the Flåm – Bergen Sognefjord cruise worth it? Maybe for the first couple hours. I find long parts of it to be a little boring, and the ferry is a little basic for such a long trip. Still, though, you see most of the Sognefjord and the coast around Bergen.

    Click here to see their website.

    What You Do:

    • Train from Bergen to Myrdal
    • Train from Myrdal to Flåm (the famous Flåm Railway)
    • Ferry cruise from Flåm – Bergen

    The Good Bits:

    • Taking the Flåm Railway, of course
    • You get some time in Flåm before the afternoon cruise
    • The Flåm to Bergen cruise often has commentary and you do pass some genuinely pretty places

    Things to Consider:

    • While it’s not that much longer than NiN, it can feel it. The train from Bergen to Myrdal is long, and the ferry is even longer.
    • Consider breaking up the trip with a night in Flåm or Balestrand

    Hopperstad Stave Church in Vik

    Day cruise to Vik

    If you want to see the fjords but feel Flåm is a little too far away or crowded, you can book a day cruise to Vik, a small village on the Sognefjord. You take the Bergen – Flåm ferry but get off in Vik, and get five hours in the village to taste cheese, have soup for lunch, and have a guided tour of the Hopperstad Stave Church, possibly the oldest of the stave churches. This is all included in your ticket.

    Click here to see their website.

    What You Do:

    • Morning ferry Bergen – Vik (same ferry that goes to Flåm)
    • Lunch in Vik followed by cheese tasting
    • Guided tour of Hopperstad Stave Church
    • Ferry back to Bergen

    The Good Bits:

    • Hopperstad Stave Church is really worth seeing!

    Things to Consider:

    • You won’t see the dramatic scenery you think of when you hear ‘fjord’. The Sognefjord is wide and the mountains in this area aren’t as steep as what you’d see towards Flåm
    • It’s the same ferry and the same views back and forth
    • You can take a train to Voss and then a bus to Vik and save time and money if you want to see the stave church.

    Round trip cruise to Flåm

    Want to see Flåm and nothing else? Take that 5.5 hour ferry from Bergen to Flåm! You get 2 hours to explore Flåm before turning around and going back.

    Honestly? Taking that 5.5 hour ferry two times in one way sounds tedious to me. If you’re thinking about doing this one, spend the night in Flåm or do NiN.

    Click here to visit their website.

    Gudvangen

    Guided bus tour to Flåm

    What You Do:

    • Drive Bergen to Voss and then to Gudvangen via Stalheim Hotel. Then you head from Gudvangen to Flåm
    • Drive Flåm – Aurland and up to the famous Stegastein Viewpoint
    • Lunch in Flåm
    • Ferry Flåm – Gudvangen (the same very scenic ferry I mentioned above)
    • Get picked up in Gudvangen and drive back to Bergen

    The Good Bits

    • Stalheim Hotel and the view from it is INCREDIBLE. And the road down from Stalheim to Gudvangen, Stalheimskleiva, is a terrifying but excellent highlight
    • Stegastein Viewpoint is incredible
    • Lunch in Flåm!
    • The ferry cruise on the fjords is included

    Things to Consider

    • There’s no Flåm Railway included
    • Almost all of the driving is inland. You see the fjords on the cruise and at Stegastein

    Full day trips: The Hardangerfjord

    The Hardangerfjord is the second-longest fjord in Norway and is often regarded as the most beautiful fjord. It’s a popular place in the summer but generally less crowded than the Flåm area, so it’s a good alternative if you want a little more peace and quiet.

    Hardangerfjord in a Nutshell

    This is the Hardanger equivalent of NiN. While I haven’t done the program, I have been to all these places, and to be honest it looks lovely and more scenic than NiN. You take a fjord cruise that isn’t as famous as the UNESCO Gudvangen-Flåm cruise, but it is still incredibly breathtaking. Also, the scenery here is a little more varied than what you get on NiN.

    Visit their website here.

    What You Do:

    • Train from Bergen to Voss
    • Bus from Voss to Eidford via Ulvik
    • Visit the famous Vøringsfossen
    • Ferry from Eidfjord to Norheimsund
    • Bus from Norheimsund to Eidfjord

    The Good Bits:

    • Vøringsfossen is incredible
    • Cruising on the Hardangerfjord

    Things to Consider:

    • Much like NiN, it’s a lot of being shuffled around with little time to stop and appreciate nature
    • Seriously consider breaking the trip up with a night in Eidfjord
    • NiN operates all year round; Hardangerfjord in a Nutshell only operates during the summer months. There is a winter version of the tour that doesn’t have the Eidfjord – Norheimsund cruise but instead you drive from Eidfjord to Odda (this is a gorgeous drive!) and then to Rosendal, where you take the ferry back to Bergen. This ferry isn’t as scenic. See below. Click here to see the winter program.

    Kvinnherad church in Rosendal

    Boat cruise Bergen to Rosendal

    If you want to see the Hardangerfjord but save some money, you can visit Rosendal with the public ferry for a day. You get 3.5 hours in Rosendal, which has a famous manor house (Barony Rosendal) and the Folgefonna Centre which is a museum about the nearby national park. Still, 3.5 hours is a lot of time and you don’t get to see the park.

    What You Do:

    • 2 hour ferry from Bergen to Rosendal
    • 3.5 hours in Rosendal
    • 2 hour ferry back to Bergen

    The Good Bits:

    • The Folgefonna Centre is a great museum about the nature of the region

    Things to Consider:

    You don’t really see the Hardangerfjord; most of the cruise is along the coast

    There isn’t so much to do in Rosendal

    Hardanger apple farms

    Guided Bus Tour to Hardanger + Lunch and Cider Tasting

    Here’s the non-public transport option. You can join a guided bus tour from Bergen to the Hardanger region and get a chance to taste some apple cider. I wouldn’t miss this chance; the region is famous for it. And I personally love it. Bring me back a bottle, please? The bus tours from Bergen have great schedules, but it’s still a lot of driving and being shuffled about.

    What You Do:

    • Drive from Bergen to Norheimsund, stopping at Steindalsfossen on the way
    • Take a ferry from Tørvikbygd to Jondal
    • Visit some apple cider farms
    • Take the ferry back to Tørvikbygd
    • Drive back to Bergen

    Shorter Fjord Tours

    If you don’t have the time or funds to take a full-day trip from Bergen, there are some wonderful half-day options available.

    Mostraumen

    Bergen - Mostraumen Cruise

    This is a very popular tour from Bergen. You go along the coast and then through the Osterfjord towards the Mostraumen Strait. Once there, you turn around and come back to Bergen. They have two departures a day in the summer and also operate in winter. The area is scenic and gives you a glimpse into the Norwegian fjords.

    Visit their website here

    Bergen - Modalen Cruise

    This is a different company than the one mentioned above, but it seems like they go to the same place. This tour promotes itself as going all the day to Modalen, a tiny village at the end of the Mofjord (where the Mostraumen Strait is). The area around Modalen was a Viking settlement area and there is a church from 1024 located in the village (though it was rebuilt in 1622)

    Visit their website here

    Bergen RIB Boat Safari

    You can book a RIB boat safari from Bergen, which would be a lot of fun. You don’t see the fjords really; you’re more zig-zagging between islands and skerries on the coast. Still, it sounds like a good tour!

    Visit their website here.

    Half-day tour to Skjerjehamn

    The half-day tour to Skjerjehamn is a nice and popular half-day trip for those with little time, but again it doesn’t take you to the steep fjords. You take a scenic cruise along the coast to Skjerjehamn harbour, where you get to spend a little under an hour walking around before taking the same cruise back to Bergen.

    Visit their website here.

    Enjoy the fjords!

    I hope my overview has been of some use to you. I know there are so many companies offering so many variations of trips to places with strange names, but hopefully this makes it a little easier for you.

    If you’ve done one of these tours, write what you thought of it in the comments. Similarly, if you know of a great tour I haven’t mentioned please write it below.

    I hope you enjoyed my guide on how to get to the fjords from Bergen!

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, Hikes

    Hiking Up and Down Mount Fløyen

    Hiking Up and Down Mount Fløyen

    A trip to the top of Mount Fløyen is a must for anyone visiting Bergen. It’s the most famous of the seven mountains that surrounds the city centre. From the top, you get sweeping views over Bergen, the suburbs, the fjords, and the ocean. It makes sense that it is one of the top five destinations in Norway. And who wouldn’t miss a chance to get a selfie at the top?

    The most popular thing to do in Bergen is take the funicular – Fløibanen – that goes from the city centre to the top of Mount Fløyen. But why funicular when you can walk? Walking up to the top station has so many benefits – you get to see the nature, different sides of the city, and you get this sense of accomplishment when you reach the top.

    The walk to the top of Mount Fløyen is easy, short, and one of my favourite things to do.

    Information online about walking up Mount Fløyen is scattered at best because there are so many ways to get to the top. I’ve put together this guide with the best way up and down so you can make the most of your own hike.

    If you do want to know more about the funicular, or plan on taking it one way, you can view their website here.

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    About Fløyen

    Fløyen is one of the seven mountains that surrounds Bergen. It is 400m (1300ft) high at its highest point, though the top station of the funicular is 320m (1000ft) above sea level.

    The name fløyen probably comes from a weathervane that used to be at the top. It was used to indicate the direction of the wind for sailing ships – the Norwegian word for it is fløystangen.

    The mountain used to be used for farming, but since the 19th century there has been an increased focus on using it for recreation purposes.

    About the Hike

    There are many different paths up and down Mount Fløyen. The way up and down that I’m about to describe is (in my opinion) the best for views and the best for your legs if you aren’t an experienced hiker.

    The hike up is 3km (2 mi) and takes around 1 hour – it can take as little as 45 minutes if you are quick or using it for exercise. However, I’d allow an hour if you plan on taking photos or want to set your own pace.

    The walk down is a different path so you see different views. It is roughly the same distance – 3km/2 mi – as the walk up. It is mostly on a paved road. The walk down takes about 40 minutes.

    The Hike Up

    Starting Point

    We are going to stat at the lower Fløibanen station. Behind it, you’ll see a hairpin road that leads up the hill. At the top, you’ll see a white wooden building with a tower. That’s where we are going.

    Skansen

    Skansen is a district in Bergen that was a farming area until the late 19th century. Throughout the 19th century, Bergen became increasingly overpopulated. Skansen was built up with housing to accommodate the growing population. At one point, Skansen and the neighbouring Fjellsiden were the most densely populated suburbs in Norway.

    Originally running water didn’t reach Skansen, so the Skansedammen (Skansen Lake) was built to provide water to the area. The lake was built in 1881 and was not just for running water but was also used as a water source to protect the wooden houses in the area. There used to be carp fish in the lake for fishing; in 2014 they were taken and given to the Aquarium as food for crocodiles! The lake was rebuilt at this time; and the new lake is 19.5cm deep. Under the lake is a parking garage with space for 193 cars.

    Today Skansen is characterised by its old fire station, which is the white wooding building we’ll reach at the end of the hairpin road. The fire station was built in 1903 after a large investment in fire protection. The building is inspired by 17th and 18th century Bergen architecture and is built in the typical timber style. It originally had one garage, a stable room and a workroom. The fire station closed in 1969 and today it is used as a clubhouse for the Skansens Battalion, the local buekorps group.

    Memorial

    Before you get to the staircase, you’ll pass a memorial commemorating all the members of the Skansens Battalion who fell during World War II.

    Husk at hesten trenger hvile

    The beginning of Tippetue is at the famous rest stop Husk at hesten trenger hvile (remember that a horse needs rest).

    This is where the intersection with Fjellveien is. Fjellveien is a well-known and much-loved flat walking trail that goes around the mountain. It’s a great option if you want to see a lot of the city and forest without too much hiking.

    At the rest stop you’ll find the bust of Ole Irgens, who was one of the main driving forces behind the construction of Fjellveien.

    Tippetue

    Tippetue is the name of the hiking trail. The name, which is quite strange (it’s pronounced like tip-eh-two-ah), comes from a town legend. There was a man who lived in Bergen in the second half of the 19th century. He frequently hung out at the pub not far from the starting point of the trail. The pub was known as Breistølen Farm and there was a scenic overlook point next to the pub. The man probably had outrageous behaviour when he was drunk, so the locals named him Tippetue. Originally the path was to be called Skovveien (Forest Way), but the locals always referred to it as Tippetue and the name eventually stuck. The famous scenic overlook is a little later on our walk.

    The gravel road up from the city was finished in 1908, and the path to Fløyen was finished a few years later.  UiO Information about Tippetue

    Note – the starting point of Tippetue is around 900m from the lower funicular station – our starting point. The next 1km of the path consists of a series of hairpin bends, but you are never walking on a steep path.

    Kindergarten & Trollskogen

    Shortly after the kindergarten you’ll see Trollskogen, or the troll forest. It’s about 200m from the top funicular station. Trollskogen is a play area in the forest for kids, with plenty of wooden troll statues scattered throughout the park. There are cubby houses, bridges, ropes, and anything kids can use for play. It’s understandably very popular with kids, but also with visitors who want to see real trolls!

    At the Top of Mount Fløyen

    There are three places to get food at the top of Mount Fløyen. The first is in a small, white wooden building and doubles as a souvenir shop that’s well worth checking out. The second is a new cafeteria-style building with baked goods and coffee. The third is in the largest white wooden building and is the Fløyen Folkerestaurant (click here to see their website).

    For the kids, there is a large playground that will keep them busy for hours. At the front of the playground is a troll, so be sure to get a photo with him!

    Of course, don’t miss the scenic view over Bergen. You’ll see the bay (Vågen), Bryggen, the churches, the fortress, the fjord, the island Askøy, the peninsula Nordnes, the mountains surrounding Bergen, and so much more.

    There are many hiking trails that start from the top of Mount Fløyen. You can read about them on the Fløibanen website (click here). I’ll cover them in a future article.

    The Hike Back Down

    To get to the beginning of the path down, walk around the Fløyen Folkerestaurant with the view over Bergen to your right hand side (and the restaurant on your left). You’ll pass the wooden building where the goats live – and might even see them! – before reaching a concrete path that feels like it’s sticking out of the mountain over the view.

    The path winds around an active park where you can zipline and take part in various outdoor activities. If you take a detour and walk through the forest you’ll get to Bergen’s secret cabin, TubaKuba.

    TubaKuba

    TubaKuba was designed by students from the Bergen School of Architecture as a way to get more children to play in the Norwegian woods. The wood has been bent to mimic the horn of a tuba (hence the name). The cabin is intended to be explored – children have an easier time fitting through the rabbit hole door than adults and can emerge on the other side to be in a small box that overlooks Bergen city centre.

    TubaKuba can be rented as a cabin for a night – groups of up to five individuals (with families being given priority) can rent TubaKuba on a nightly basis. It’s small, but very cozy with a wood stove and a lofted area with the beds. The only condition is that they accept that people may come through the rabbit hole at any point to have a look – it is first and foremost a public space.

    TubaKuba Links:

    http://www.bas.org/en/News/Tubakuba-er-apnet!

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/tubakuba

    https://www.bergenoghordalandturlag.no/artikler/turtips/12632-utforsk-nrmiljet-besk-tubakuba/

    The Old Ski Jump

    If you keep an eye out on your right hand-side, you’ll pass a plaque. It commemorates an old ski jump that used to be on the side of the mountain. On Midsummer 1949 an event took place here that brought well-known ski jumpers from around the country to jump off this old ski jump. If you look up the mountain behind the plaque, you can see where the old ski jump was.

    The stone reads:

    til minne om tranegutter som St. Hansaften 1949 arrangerte hopprenn i denne bakken med deltakere som Birger Ruud, Petter Hugsted og med flere av de best hopperne i Norge. Bakkerekorden har tilhørt vår alles skuespiller Rolf Berentzen.

    in memory of ‘tranegutter’ who on Midsummer 1949 arranged jumping races on this hill with participants such as Birger Ruud, Petter Hugsted and with several of the best jumpers in Norway. The record has belonged to our all-time actor Rolf Berentzen.

    Skansemyren Sports Ground

    We are now in the residential area of Skansemyren, which has a mix of houses and apartments. We’ll walk between them for a little while, giving you a nice look at some typical family homes.

    Fjellsiden

    You’re getting close to the city when you see the bunched up wooden houses of Fjellsiden. Those 19th century buildings were built to accommodate Bergen’s rapidly growing population. You see them when there’s less than 1km to go!

    Back at Tippetue!

    The path ends at the husk at hesten trenger hvile rest stop we began at. From here, cross the road and head back down the stairs to reach Skansen and the city.

    I hope you enjoyed the walk! In total, it should take 2-3 hours, depending on your pace.

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, Foodies Guide

    Bergen Restaurant Guide

    Bergen Restaurant Guide

    Bergen has a huge number of restaurants with many different cuisines, and it can be a little daunting to try and figure out where to eat. If your goal is to try traditional Norwegian food, it can be tricky trying to figure out what ‘pinnekjøtt’ or ‘prinsefisk’ is.
    I’m not a huge fan of reviewing restaurants, firstly because it is completely subjective and secondly it’s because there are already plenty of reviews online. When I started building “I Love Bergen”, I didn’t want to tell people what’s good or bad; I wanted to put together a travel guide so people could make up their own mind. So, for this restaurant guide I’ve categorised restaurants by cuisine – whether you be looking for traditional Norwegian food, Japanese, vegetarian, cheap eats, etc. I’ve also included my experiences at the restaurant. This list is forever growing, so it’s best to bookmark it and check just before you come.
    For convenience, I’ve only included restaurants in the inner city centre.

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norwegian Food

    Norwegian food is a surprisingly big term; it means seafood, locally sourced food, food from the farms, and traditional food.

    Bare

    Tasting Menu / 1450 NOK pp ($)
    Torgallmenningen 2

    Links

    Bare is located within the Bergen Børs Hotel and received a Michelin Star in 2020 for its use of organise local produce. The menu changes according to the season, and you can view the current menu online. It’s typically a mix of seafood and meat dishes from Western Norway. Reservations are necessary.

    Bjerck

    Lunch $ / Dinner $
    Torgallmenningen 1A

    Links

    Bjerck is a new restaurant in Bergen with a mostly Norwegian menu, though there are some international dishes as well. They have an international lunch menu (chicken salad, summer salad, fish and chips, shrimps, burgers) and a more Norwegian dinner menu (prinsefisk, chicken breast, entrecote, burgers). 

    Bryggeloftet & Stuene

    $ (Mains 275-380 NOK)
    Bryggen 11

    Links

    Whenever someone visits me in Bergen, this is where I take them. It has a good overview of traditional Norwegian food, and that makes it a safe bet for anyone looking to discover Norwegian flavours. Menu includes Bergen fish soup, scallops, kveite, mountain trout, wolffish, bacalao, beef, reindeer, lamb, and deer. The menu is seasonal, so it does change. There’s a vegan bacalao and vegan burger as well. 

    Bryggen Tracteursted

    Tapas $ / Mains $
    Bryggestredet

    Links

    Bryggen Tracteursted is located inside the old schøtstuene, or kitchen and assembly room, for the Hanseatics, so you get an authentic 18th century experience here. The menu is traditional Norwegian. The tapas include an extensive list of Norwegian seafood (halibut, sardines, salmon, etc) and meat (lamb, whale, reindeer, etc). The a la carte menu has prinsefisk, plukkfisk, fried trout, reindeer and beef

    Cornelius

    Tasting Menu / 1145 NOK pp (includes boat transfer) ($)
    Vestrepollsveien 109

    Links

    Cornelius is a full seafood experience. You take a boat from near Bryggen at 6pm, ride 25 minutes to the restaurant, and then take the boat back at 10:30pm. When there, you get a set five-course menu. This restaurant is quite popular with visitors, and I can see why! The menu is inspired by the weather of that particular day, and the items change daily depending on the raw materials. It usually consists of shellfish for an appetiser, fish for the main course, and then a dessert. 

    Enhjørningen

    A la carte $ (350+ NOK for a main course)
    Enhjørningsgården 29

    Links

    Enhjørningen (The Unicorn) is a seafood restaurant located on Bredsgården, the most authentic alley left at Bryggen. You can sit in the old Hanseatic buildings and eat traditional Norwegian seafood! Items include whale, clipfish, fish soup, mussels, reindeer steak, bacalao, and then Norwegian cheeses for dessert.

    Fjellskål

    A la carte $ (you can pay 100 NOK or 1500 NOK for a meal here!)
    Strandkaien 3
    Vegan Menu

    Links

    Fjellskål is located in the Bergen Fish Market (under the tourist information centre), and it has a great range of different types of seafood and meat dishes at varying prices, so it really is for everyone. The seafood is picked fresh from the market, so you can’t go wrong here. Just some of the items are fish soup, 4 types of caviar, various types of sashimi, shrimp, crab (various types), oysters, various types of fish including salmon and cod, whale, fish and chips, pasta, burgers. Vegan menu has the beyond burger and vegan pasta.

    Lysverket

    1, 2, 3 courses ($)
    Rasmus Meyers Alle 9 (entry through KODE 4)

    Links

    Lysverket was shortlisted on the Michelin Guide in 2020, and it is a restaurant I’ve heard often amongst visitors. It’s located near the art galleries on Byparken. The set menu includes scallops, turbot, cow, and dessert. Sturgeon caviar and Norwegian cheeses can be added to the menu. 

    Pingvinen

    $
    Vaskerelven 14

    Links

    Pingvinen is a local restaurant/pub known for its traditional meals and very laid back setting. Meals include meatballs, fish, stew, and four other dishes that change daily. If you visit around christmas, they serve traditional Christmas dishes. On Thursdays they serve raspeballer. 

    Restaurant Opus 16

    $-$ (245-495 NOK for mains)
    Vågsallmenningen 16

    Links

    Restaurant Opus 16 is located within the Opus XVI hotel, practically across the street from the fish market. Mains include cod, lamb, halibut, mussels and langoustines. This restaurant also a very popular afternoon tea on Saturdays from 12pm – 5pm.

    Restaurant 1877

    Tasting Menu / 725-845 NOK pp ($)
    Located inside the old meat market at Vetrlidsallmenningen 2

    Links

    Restaurant 1877 is located inside the old meat market near Bryggen (the triangular-roofed brick building). The menu is seasonal and locally sourced and typically includes seafood, meat, and dessert. 

    To Kokker

    Four, five, six course menu ($)
    Enhjørningsgården 29

    Links

    To Kokker is owned by the same group as Enhjørningen, so the menus are a little similar. The big difference is that To Kokker (the two chefs in English) is a set menu, whereas Enhjørningen is a la carte. Items on the menu include kveite, deer steak, and whale. 

    26 North

    Boards from the Fjords $ / Mains $-$
    Bryggen 47

    Links

    Located at the Radisson Blu Hotel on Bryggen, 26 North focuses on Nordic food traditions. They have ‘Boards from the Fjords’, which is an overview of different seasonal flavours from the nearby fjords. At the time of writing, this includes moose sliders, Nordic taco (with lefse), Arctic reindeer tartar or a mixing board. Mains include a burger, lamb, venison, steak, cod, Nordic pasta, and the catch of the day. 

    Japanese

    Japanese is very popular in Bergen, probably because of the fresh seafood we can take advantage of. A well-known fun fact is that the Norwegian invented salmon sushi, so why not try some here? Every time my husband and I plan to go out to dinner, he always insists on Japanese as the sushi tastes so fresh!

    Nama Japanese Fusion

    Tasting menu ($) or a la carte ($)
    Lodin Lepps gate 2B

    Links

    Nama was the first sushi restaurant to open up in Bergen, and the restaurant mixes Japanese recipes with local ingredients. Tasting menus are available, you can opt for the a la carte menu. Items include Wagyu steak, tempura, lobster, miso soup, tuna tartar, sea bass, black cod, chicken, king crab cake, monkfish, and an extensive sushi bar. The restaurant even has a sushi course! Takeaway is also available (see website for details). 

    Sumo

    $
    Neumanns Gate 25

    Links

    Sumo is our go-to sushi restaurant. The menu is Asian fusion and the sushi list is extensive and fresh. There are plenty of small dishes as well as poke bowls. Mains include red curry, pad thai, sticky pork, ushi burger, Chicken satay, bao buns, dirty maki, and so much more. It’s not just Japanese food but a huge mix of different types of Asian food, but we come here for the sushi. 

    Pubs

    Not everyone wants a fine dining experience; some of us just want to have a good, safe, tasty and filling pub meal in a really laid-back setting. I hear you – I always try to get to a pub when I travel somewhere. Here are some of Bergen’s pubs. 

    Bryggeriet Restaurant and Microbrewery

    $ – $
    Torget 2 (the large white building on the fish market square)

    Links

    Located just off the fish market, Bryggeriet is a popular gastropub with the locals. The menu focuses on seafood and meat dishes that are Norwegian-inspired, and there’s an excellent selection of beer from the microbrewery. They’ve got burgers, fish and chips, cod, mussels, beef tenderloin, chicken breast, pork, quinoa salad and stuffed eggplant. The microbrewery was the first to be established in Bergen and is 135 years old. 

    Madam Felle

    $
    Vegetarian Menu

    Links

    Located on Bryggen, Madam Felle is one of the spots where you see everyone sitting outside having a beer on a warm summer day. The menu includes snacks (nachos, anyone?), caesar salad (veggie and chicken), various sandwiches (smoked salmon, shrimp, blt, chicken curry, steak), quesadillas, hamburgers, ribs, steak, and scampi. check the website for their regular concerts. 

    Naboen

    $
    Sigurdsgate 4
    Vegetarian Menu

    Links

    Naboen is a popular Bergen pub with a simple menu consisting of a hamburger, fish and chips, reindeer wrap, toast with mushroom and beef, and ragu of beef tail with root vegetables. The a la carte menu has a little more, including caviar, Norwegian salmon, cured reindeer, mackerel, hake, grilled sirloin of deer, duck breast, Swedish meatballs and Swedish sirloin “plankstek”. 

    Italian

    Norwegians love Italian food – after all, we are the largest eaters of pizza per capita in the world! That’s mostly frozen pizza, but until someone opens a frozen pizza restaurant you’ll have to opt for some fresh pizza. I have heard from some Italians that the Italian restaurants in Bergen are better than they are in Italy, so don’t shy away from trying Italian food in Norway. 

    Olivia

    $ – $
    Torget 3 (in the big white building on the fish market square)

    Links

    Olivia is a really popular Italian restaurant chain throughout Norway, and this is Bergen’s Olivia right here on the fish market. This Olivia is inspired by Sicilian food, and the menu includes a large list of pizzas, pastas, steak, salmon, etc. 

    Ruccola

    $
    Vetrlidsallmenningen 7

    Links

    Ruccola is a lot more laid back than the other Italian restaurants, and also more affordable. On the menu you’ll find a large list of pasta, ravioli, risotto and pizza. 

    Villani

    $
    Skostredet 9A
    Vegan Menu

    Links

    Vilani is a new Italian restaurant in Bergen; my husband went there for a work dinner a few weeks ago and absolutely loved it. The menu includes focaccia, various pastas, salad, soups, risotto, and meat/fish mains. The pizza menu is traditional Neapolitan pizza. They have a huge list of vegetarian and vegan pizzas. 

    Villa Blanca

    $
    Nedre Korskirkeallmenningen 1A

    Links

    Villa Blanca is a popular pizza restaurant amongst the locals (I hear about it a lot!). The menu includes a huge list of pizzas, as well as some meaty mains. 

    International Cuisine

    Norway didn’t really experience international cuisine until quite recently (the first wave of immigrants occurred in the 1970s) and since then international restaurants have popped up all across the country. Bergen is not lacking in a range of different cuisines. If you are budget conscious, the international restaurants are typically cheaper than the Norwegian restaurants, and the food is just as good. Here are some of them below!

    Brasilia

    Brasilia Experience 460 NOK / Veggie 290 NOK
    Olav Kyrres Gate 39

    Links

    Brasilia is a Brazilian restaurant with buffets (meat or vegetarian), and there is an extensive list of cocktails and other types of drinks. You choose your side dishes from the buffet, and then they serve you 12(!) types of meats. Brasilia is popular with the locals!

    Horn of Africa

    $ (Mains 199 NOK)
    Strandgaten 212
    Vegetarian Menu

    Links

    Horn of Africa is an African restaurant with a focus on Ethiopian cuisine. Meals include shiro (ground chickpeas), tibs chilli, beef stew, chicken stew, shreds of lamb, or you can opt for a selection of four different meat or vegetarian dishes for 459 NOK for two people. It’s one of the top rated restaurants in Bergen (no. 3 on TripAdvisor), so it’s certainly worth a go!

    Small eats

    This list is comprised of cafes and eateries that are smaller in size and quicker than restaurants. They are perfect if you are budget conscious, don’t want to spend a night out at a restaurant, or are looking for lunch somewhere quick. 

    Daily Pot

    $-$
    Vaskerelven 21
    Vegan Menu
    Note: Lunch only (closes 6pm)

    Links

    Daily Pot is a healthy cafe with a wide selection of vegan options, as well as a couple meat options. They have a list of soups, sandwiches, ‘power bowls’ and cakes. 

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen

    Hananipa Hike

    Hananipa Hike

    If you’re in Bergen looking for a hike that is close enough you can do it in less than a day but also far enough that you can’t hear the hustle and bustle of the big city, then Hananipa is for you!

    Hananipa is not one of the famous Bergen hikes. In fact, I didn’t even know about it until one of my friends invited me to join her on the hike. As it had been months since I had left Bergen city centre (thanks, corona), I took the opportunity to go out and see some mountains and a fjord.

    The hike to Hananipa is gorgeous. You see the Sørfjorden, you see farms, fish farms, an old prison, small villages, sheep, and even snow in July! It’s a great taste of West Norwegian nature without having to venture far out into the wilderness.

    For this guide, I have tried to focus on including all the information I want to see when I’m planning a hike. Here we go!

    In this article...

    Is this hike for me?

    • Total length (beginning and ending at the train station): 13.8km (8.5 miles)
    • Types of path: First 4km (2.4 miles) is a road; last 2.5km (1.5 miles) is a rocky path
    • Steepness: First 4km (2.4 miles) is a noticeable but not steep incline; last 2.5km (1.5 miles) is a mixture – mostly it’s slightly steep (almost like walking upstairs) but it does flatten out towards the end
    • Safety: This path is safe – you never go close to the edge
    • Easy to follow? There are signs at the major turning points, but otherwise the path is unmarked. Still, though, you can see it clearly on the ground.
    • Populated? You will likely see other people along the way, but not many
    • Facilities: No toilets, shops or cabins along the way (including the train station)

    About the mountain

    Hananipa is a mountain peak located roughly between the villages of Trengereid and Vaksdal. The mountain is 718 metres (2355 ft) high, above the trees, and offers a panoramic view to the nearby island of Osterøy, the Sørfjorden, and the village of Vaksdal.

    About the area

    Trengereid is a small village about 18km east of Bergen centre. Trengereid has long been a farming community, well before industry came to the area. It was originally built up as an industrial village thanks to Johan Jebsen, who in 1895 founded Trengereid Fabrikker AS. Using electrical power from its own power plant on Manndalselva, the factory made various textile products. Operation ceased in 1987 and the power plant has since been taken over by BKK, the national power service.

    In 1920, the mountains around Trengereid began to be used for mining activities with the Risnes Limestone Quarry starting operations here. The mines provided jobs for 70 men, and the workers barracks were eventually placed with housing. The mines closed down in 1986 and since then no new business has been started in Trengereid.

    The population hasn’t decreased from this lack of industry, however, with the locals about to easily commute to Bergen city centre.

    Today Trengereid is a traffic hub with road and train connections to Bergen, the Hardangerfjord (Norheimsund), Voss and eventually Oslo. There is a primary school (opened 1896), a parish hall and chapel, and a daycare. Trengereid has a mixed choir with 30 members, and a music club. There are no shops or kiosks in Trengereid; the closest is in Arna.

    How to get there

    Take the train from Bergen Central Station to Trengereid. You can take the lines to Oslo, Myrdal or Voss, meaning that the train runs fairly regularly.

    The train journey takes 17 minutes. You do not need to request the train stop there; it always does.

    How do I buy tickets?

    Vy App – download the app called ‘Vy’; it’s in English so it’s easy to navigate. Select Bergen – Trengereid and your desired time.

    Cost: Around 66 NOK (varies depending on availability)

    At the Train Station – head to one of the ‘En Tur’ ticket machines and follow the prompts to buy a ticket.

    If driving, put “Skulstadvegen” into your GPS and follow the road up the hill. You’ll eventually come to a parking area on your right.

    Starting Point

    If you are taking the train, you will be starting from the train station – where I started too! The train station is around 3.7km from where the carpark is, and it’s all with a slight up hill (you will walk up 362 metres and it will take around 1 hour 20 minutes to get up there).

    If you are driving, you start from the carpark near the lake.

    Since most visitors to Bergen will be taking the train, I will begin the walk from the train station. Drivers, skip to the part with the car park!

    Part One: Train Station to the Lake

    Once off the train, cross the tracks. Directly in front of you, you’ll see a narrow staircase through the trees. The path is 150m long.

    You reach Vaksdalsvegen, a main road, and turn right. Then turn left onto Trengereidgeila. Follow the path as it curves to the right. You’ll then see a very narrow gravel path on your left – take that to get up to Skulstadvegen. If this road is too steep for you, keep following Trengereidgeila until you get to the main road Trengereidsvingane, turn left, and then take the next left onto Skulstadvegen. If this sounds confusing, Google Maps will take you on the exact same path.

    You will now walk all the way up Skulstadvegen – all 2.9km (1.8 miles) of it. The road isn’t steep, but you can feel the incline as you go up.

    Don’t be put off by this extra walk – Skulstadvegen is gorgeous, scenic, and a lovely walk. I got to eat some wild strawberries and look at the growing blueberries along the way. There are also many nice houses to look at. Here are some of my photos from the walk on the road:

    Eventually you’ll reach some farms with chickens and sheep (if you come in the middle of summer, the sheep will be up in the mountains). You will be walking on private property – that’s totally fine! – but you do pass through two gates that you can open but have to close.

    Eventually you reach Skulstadvatnet.

    Part Two

    When you reach Skulstadvatnet (the Skulstad Lake), you’ll see a sign about the local hiking trails. We are following signs to ‘Hananipa’. You can’t miss this point; the dam is right in front of you.

    Turn to the left and continue to follow the path along the left-hand side of the lake. This is where it will start to get rocky and narrow, but it’s never too steep.

    Eventually you’ll reach the other side of the lake, which is a nice rest stop before starting the next part. There’s a small stream there if you want to fill water bottles. There is also another sign pointing to Hananipa.

    Now comes the steepest part of the walk – you’ll be basically walking along the stream as you head up this wooded valley. The path is very narrow and it’s made up of rocks. Luckily it’s short – only a few hundred metres – so you can rest at the top where the trees end.

    Now for the last part of the walk:

    Part Three

    It takes around 30 minutes to get from the top of the valley to the mountain peak, so you really are on the home stretch. You’ll also be around 500 metres high at this point, so you’ve done most of the climbing! The trees are gone, and there are amazing views down to the Sørfjorden on your left-hand side. You’ll also the peak straight in front of you. It’s very grassy at the top, so the path is always pretty clear.

    You will soon pass a small cabin on your lefthand side. I’m not sure if this is a public or private cabin; when we went, we saw some tents next to it.

    The last little bit before the peak is a little steep, but it’s short-lived and you can see how close you are!

    When we went, there were plenty of sheep up there staring us down!

    What you see from the top

    If you walk a little bit past the peak you’ve been walking towards, you’ll see the stone marker indicating the top of the mountain. It’s from this point that you get incredible views out to Vaksdal and Osterøy.

    Vaksdal

    Vaksdal is a municipality in Western Norway with a population of around 3,977 people. During World War II, there was heavy fighting in the municipality as the German forces advanced along the railway line from Bergen towards Voss. The heaviest fighting took place in Vaksdal between 19 and 23 April. Three Norwegians and one civilian, as well as a larger, but unknown, number of German soldiers fell in the village.

    You can see the Vaksdal Mill from Hannaipa. When the mill was established in the early 1900s, it was the largest in Scandinavia. It produces grain and flour. It is an industrial municipality with 20% of the work in industry and 32% in construction, power and water supply. 26% of workers in the village commute to Bergen for work.

    If you are up there on a clear day (about as clear as I had it), you can see the Folgefonna Glacier and the mountains along the Hardangerfjord (you can’t see the fjord). In my photos, these are the mountains that still have snow on them. The glacier is fairly easy to spot as it’s a flat, white strip in between mountains.

    The Prison

    The island is called Ulvsnesøy and it has a lot of history for such a small island. It was probably first used as a monastic property, and later it became church property.

    In 1881, a boarding school for ‘bad’ boys aged 10 to 15 was established on the island. The institution was founded by Ole Irgens, Bergen’s school inspector at the time and ‘father’ of the Fjellveien trail in Bergen city centre. In 1900, the school was known as “Ulvnaes Lake School Home for Neglected Boys” and in 1951 it was changed to “Ulvsnesøy School for Boys with Disabilities”. The boys who lived there were sent by the authorities due to neglect of behavioural problems. In total, about 30 boys were there. The school closed in 1981.

    From 1982 Bergen used the island as a prison. At most, it had 31 inmates, 9 of which were women. The inmates were employed on the island, maintaining the buildings and farming. Farmers on the mainland could also use the prisoners as extra labour. The prison closed in 2019, was put up for sale, and the island sold for NOK 11.8 million. Whoever bought it has to use the island for business purposes, according to law.

    Going Back Down

    We took almost the same amount of time going back down, and that’s mostly because there are some rather large steps down that slows you a little bit.

    You do get some nice views going the other way, including the cabin we passed earlier.

    If the path feels confusing, you do see the lake in front of you all the way down, so it’s easy to navigate.

    The walk down the road back to the station was the toughest bit for me; it’s around that point that I started to feel tired. We checked the schedule for the train when we got back down to the lake – it took a little over an hour to get from the lake to the train station once we knew when the train was coming.

    Make sure you keep an eye out for Gullfjellet, the largest mountain on the Bergen peninsula.

    It has a flat, rocky top and is covered with snow practically all year round. In the photo, it’s the peak in the middle of the frame.

    When you reach Trengereid Train Station, head to the picnic benches and take a well-deserved rest! When we were there, and possibly very often, the station building is locked, so you will have to wait outside.

    Have you done Hananipa hike? Let me know in the comments!

  • Bergen, Hikes

    Fjellveien Hike

    Fjellveien Hike

    No trip to Bergen is complete without a hike in the mountains – that is what Bergen is famous for! Still, though, hiking may not be for everyone, or you may have limited time for a hike. That’s where the Fjellveien hike comes in. Fjellveien is one of the most famous hiking routes in Bergen and what’s so great about it is that it is flat, making it perfect for all ages and fitness levels. By doing the Fjellveien hike, you get a lovely look at the Bergen mountains, forests, historic buildings, fjord, and cityscape.

    For this article, I walked the entire length of Fjellveien hike, making a note of all of the major points of interests along the way. I’ve also written down how to get to/from Fjellveien.

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Overview of the Fjellveien Hike

    Fjellveien (“Mountain Way” in English) is a path that goes along the mountains Sandviksfjellet and Fløyen in central Bergen. The trip starts at Munkebotn in Sandviken and travels through the suburb of Mulen, the city centre, and then into the expensive area of Bellevue and Kalfaret. The walk ends in front of the historic Bellevue Restaurant.

    Length and elevation

    In total, the length of the Fjellveien hike is 4632 metres (4.6km / 2.8 miles). It is probably the flattest hike in Bergen. The path is mostly a gravel path, though there are some sections where you have to walk on a road.

    In total, according to my Apple Watch, there was an elevation difference of 133 metres across the entire length.

    Time to allow

    Walking the entire length of the Fjellveien hike took me 80 minutes – and that includes stopping a lot for photos and venturing off onto detour paths. You could do it in under an hour if you are in a hurry, or even quicker if you jog the entire length.

    You can do the walk in either direction. Sandviken – Bellevue worked for me, but you can start from Bellevue. I’ve included how to get to both starting points in the next section.

    Getting to Fjellveien

    For my walk, I started Fjellveien on the Sandviken end. You can start on the Kalfaret end, but I found starting at Sandviken a little easier, a prettier direction, and then Kalfaret was easier for me to get back to the city.

    Taking the bus

    To the Sandviken Start

    I took the bus from Bryggen. There are two bus stops (A & B) in front of the wooden houses. These are the buses you can take:

    • 3 towards Støbotn
    • 4 towards Flaktveit
    • 5 towards Åsane Terminal
    • 6 towards Lønborglien
    • 83 towards Øyjorden

    Buses 4, 5 and 6 are the most frequent. Some leave from Bryggen platform A and some leave from Bryggen platform B. All take roughly 7 minutes / 5 stops to Gamle Bergen.

    The stop to get off at is GAMLE BERGEN (like the open air museum!)

    Once off the bus, head up the stairs and follow the road (Sandviksleitet) to the right. You’ll walk through a health centre (helse). Eventually the path will join with Munkebotn (it can be a little confusing; I used Google Maps to get there). Once at Munkebotn, keep following it (don’t go uphill; follow it to the right) until it splits into Fjellveien and Amalie Skrams vei.

    To the Bellevue Start

    The best bus that involves the least walking uphill is Bus 11 towards Starefossen. You can take it from Strandgaten (the stop right in front of the swan pharmacy), Småstrandgaten (close to the old city hall), or from Stadsporten (outside the old city gate). You get off at BELLEVUE, which is right at the beginning of Fjellveien.

    For the walk below, I start from Sandviken.

    Fjellveien Walk

    Beginning: Sandviken

    The walk starts along a very nice shaded path, where you feel like you’re walking in the woods. If you look between the trees to your right, you’ll see lovely views out to the city fjord.

    History of Sandviken

    Fjellveien was built in the late 19th/early 20th centuries by the Forest and Tree Planting Company (Bergen Skog og Taeplantningsselskap). Ole Irgens is often considered the ‘father’ of Fjellveien as he had a lot of input into its construction. At the time, Ole Irgesn was the school inspector of Bergen.

    Here are the stages (according to our walk)

    • Sandviken – Mulen: Built between 1901 and 1906
    • Mulen – Beautification: Built between 11879 and 1882
    • Beautification – Belleveue: Built between 1890 and 1894

    Permisjonsstein: Sandviks Battery Detour

    One of the first detour paths you’ll pass is the one that leads up to Sandviks Battery. It’s a little bit hidden as it’s not so much a path but rather an opening in the woods. The path to Sandviks Battery is relatively unknown; restorations have just been completed. (the local newspaper Bergens Tidende did an article about it here). The Sandviks Battery was built as part of Bergen’s inner fortifications in the late 19th century. Germans used it during World War II and built additional bunkers in the area. The name, “Permisjonsstein”, translates to “Permit Path”. When the soldiers were granted permission to leave, they would take this path down to Bergen.

    Sandviks Battery closed in 1952.

    Sherpas came to restore the path in 2019. They brought in their own equipment and worked to build stone stairs on the path. The path to Sandviks Battery has around 220 steps. It starts out flat, but gets steeper towards the end. If you walk slowly, it’ll take 15 minutes to get the top.

    If you want to do a detour to Sandviks Battery & Stoltzekleiven, see this walking overview (external link). Allow another 1.5 hours to complete this. Click here.

    You can watch a video of the hike up here.

    Old Hydro Plant

    The next point of interest is on your left; this abandoned building looks to be a hydro plant. The sign above the door says “BKK”, which refers to the Norwegian power company Bergenshalvøens Kommunale Kraftselskap. They have 29 hydroelectric plants throughout Western Norway. This building is a transformer station from the 1920s. Its connection to a nearby waterfall follows the old Stoltzekleiven route (see below).   

    Stoltzekleiven

    Stoltzekleiven is a well-known and popular hike amongst locals. In total, the hike has 908 stairs to the top. The elevation is 301.44 metres, the length is 834 metres, and the average elevation is 36%. It is quite a narrow path, and hikers are recommended to walk up only; heading back down via other nearby trails.

    The original trail was part of the Stoltzegården Farmstead; the name “Stoltz” comes from the German family that settled here. Gerhard Stoltz (1833-1907) was a German merchant who took over the farm Frydenlund (located at Gamle Bergen) and made it his year-long residence, renaming the property. He planted the shrubbery area up the mountain. The trail was laid out in 1900 over the old herding path. The spruce and pine trees we see are from 1870.

    Every September is the Stoltzekleiven Opp race. The event runs over two days from 9:15am to 6:15pm and runners go up every 10 seconds. On average, 6,300 people register for the event.

    The current record for men is held by Stian Øvergaard Aarvik (a professional mountain runner) with 7 minutes and 46 seconds. For women, it is held by Kristin Størmer Steira (a cross country skiier who has represented Norway at the Winter Olympics) in 9 minutes and 35 seconds. It takes me 30-45 minutes to do the hike.

    If you want to detour up Stoltzekleiven, walking down is discouraged. The path is too narrow, and locals only walk up.

    You can come back down via Munkebotn (where we started after the bus stop) or Skredderdalen (see further along this walk). You can also walk to Fløyen from the top – this is the easiest but longest walk.

    In 2011, Stoltzekleiven was refurbished with the help of Sherpas.

    White Manor House

    The white house you see here is the Bergen Skipperforenings Skipperhus, or the Bergen Skipper’s Association. The building dates to 1919 and maritime captains from the surrounding area make up the association. A retirement home has also been in here (see marcus.uib.no). In a recent newspaper article, the building has a market value of 43 – 51 million NOK.

    In front of it is another large house with a green tower and orange ceramic roof. Dating back to 1885, this building functioned as a retirement home for factory workers. From at least 2014, it is accommodation for students with a total of 37 apartments in the building (see this newspaper article).

    Christinegård

    Mon Plaisir is a pavilion from the old Christinegård Estate, who owned this property. You can’t see the house from here, but it’s directly below us.

    Christinegård is a “pleasure farm” (kind of like a holiday house) that dates back to the late 17th century. Christine Caspersdatter Middeltorp had the property built after her wealthy merchant husband died in 1694 and left her with a large sum of money. Very little is known about this first home.

    When Christine died in 1706, her daughter inherited the property. She passed it onto her son, Berent Madzen Chairman, whose wife Modesta Hansdatter Chairman, took over the property in 1747. She had the house rebuilt in 1763 with the main facade facing the fjord. According to the fire regulations of 1766, the property had a farmhouse, covenant dwelling, barge, barn and stables. Modesta’s son, Hans Berentsen Chairman, took over the farm in 1783.

    After the death of Hans, Christinegård was sold in 1822 to Dutch Consul general Michael Djurhus Prahl (1781-1851), who had the house completely rebuilt in the 1830s. The new building was two storeys and had the same position as Modesta’s, with the front looking out to the fjord. It was surrounded by a bastion, making the property look like a fortress.

    The front of the house has six pillars and a large porch, and there are window shutters on all the windows. This style gives it a very southern feel.

    Originally the property extended all the way up the mountain, but when Fjellveien was constructed in this area, it cut right through Christinegård’s property. Most of the land was sold off in the 120s to build apartment buildings.

    Christinegård was listed for protection in 1927, and between 1934 and 1958 it was the residence of the bishop. During World War II, Bergen’s commissioner-in-charge held Christinegård, and he held municipal funds in the building. Archaeologist Asbjørn Herteig, known for his work in the Bryggen excavation, took over Christinegård in the late 1950s and his descendants own the property today. It is not open to the public. On Google Maps, the house is now listed as a gallery:

    https://www.gallerichristinegaard.no/

    Mon Plaisir

    Mon Plaisir was built in 1836 for Michael D. Prahl, and ‘mon plaisir’ means ‘my pleasure’. The wooden building is shaped like a small Roman temple. In the photo above, you can see the fortress Sverresborg, built in the late 10th century by Sverre Sigurdsson during the Norwegian civil war. Just behind it is the church on Nordnes, Nykirken. The pink building to the front right is a high school

    The City of Rhododendrons

    The next little section of path has some lovely rhododendrons, which will be in bloom in May/June.

    Once you get past them, be sure to turn back around and you’ll see a sign dedicated to the rhododendrons.

    Mulen River & Water Plant

    Muleven is a river that flows down the mountainside. Originally, it would’ve gone all the way down to the fjord, but today it flows through pipes from Fjellveien downhill. The name refers to a number of mills that were established on the river to make use of the power of the stream for electricity.

    Until 1877, this was the city of Bergen’s northern boundary. This is also the point where Sandvik Mountain (Sandviksfjellet) becomes Fløy Mountain (Fløyfjellet).

    In 1876, the mills and water rights were purchased by the municipality, and four of the five mills were demolished, while the one remaining was in operation until 1912. The municipality planned to use Mulelven for both water and electricity. Mulevannverket (Mule Water Plant) was established to provide the local community with water in homes. Mulevannverket had the ability to supply the whole city with water if the main water plant at Svartdiket was to malfunction.

    Eventually Mulevannverket was taken out of use. Since 1997, Mulelven has not been a source of drinking water.

    It is possible to walk up the path you’ll see in the image to the left of the building. If you walk up there you’ll be able to see Mulelven. I didn’t go too far as I felt the gravel was slippery. You can certainly hear the river, but my photos don’t do the view justice.

    Skredderdalen

    This is also the beginning point of the hike Skredderdalen. Skredderdalen is a steep hike that is seen as an alternative to Stoltzekleiven if you want to get as high but do something a little easier. As you make your way up, you’ll pass the old damn built for the waterworks. The path will lead you to another path that will take you to Fløyen (See the hiking information here). It can also be a path down if you want to go up Stoltzekleiven. Here’s a link to that path.

    Mulen

    We are now in the residential area of Mulen, located between Christinegård and Bergen city centre. The name comes from the mill operations that took place along the river. It’s believed there was a farm here in the 1300s and that livestock were kept on the hillside.

    Inner City Views

    We are now in the city centre of Bergen, where below us will be Bryggen. It’s not visible from the path, though. For a short portion of the walk, you’ll be walking on a road as you cross through the suburb Breistølen. Fjellsiden is a residential area just above Bryggen. It was developed in the 19th century as the city was in desperate need of more housing due to a huge increase in the population. These wooden houses were built in a uniform grid pattern and were apartment buildings. The apartments were tiny; often they’d have one room and may have up to 12 people!

    Today Fjellsiden is a very expensive area of town. Some of these houses are now single residence buildings, but many are still tiny apartments.

    Hesten Trenger Hvile

    The main interjunction that links Fjellveien with Bergen city centre and Fløyen is called hesten trenger hvile, or “horses need rest”. There is a small fountain here as well as a statue of Ole Irgens, the ‘father’ of Fjellveien.

    From here, there are two paths you can take. The first is Tippetue, which is a scenic walk up to the top of Mt. Fløyen and the top station of the Fløibanen. The second is a path down to the city centre; ending somewhere near the Fløibanen lower station.

    Tippetue

    Why the name Tippetue? Well, Tippetue was a town local who lived in Bergen in the last half of the 19th century. He frequented the pub and had outrageous behaviour when he was drunk, so the locals called the area Tippetue. In 1908 the road was finished from Fjellveien to Tippetue, and then a few years later the road was extended up to the top fo Fløyen. (source)

    The walk up to Fløyen takes around 45 minutes and, while Tippetue is the steepest path to Fløyen, I’d say it is easily the most scenic.

    Regarding the walk back down to the city, this can be a way for you to get back to town when you’re finished with Fjellveien if you don’t want to take public transport.

    Skansemyren funicular station

    Not too long after the Tippetue junction you’ll cross paths with the Fløibanen. The stop is called Skansemyren, which is named after the residential area. The area is approximately 180 metres above sea level. There are many homes and apartments here.

    Skansemyren is best known for its communal sports ground, with different training activities taking place here. It is also home to the Tine relay race, which is held every year. The sports ground opened in 1896 with Ole Irgens at the forefront of operations.

    The Fløibanen opened in 1918 as a funicular between Bergen city centre and Fløyen mountain. If you are here on a busy summer day you won’t have to wait long to see the funicular; it runs every few minutes. Be sure to wave!

    From here, Fjellveien turns into a car road and remains this way for the rest of the walk. You’ve also got to be a little careful as there’s two roads in the area: Fjellien and Fjellveien – be sure to stick to Fjellveien.

    Bergen city centre

    The mountains you see (from left to right) are Løvstakken and Damsgårdfjellet. On the far left in the image, you can see the black skyscraper building that is the Bergen Media City. Next to it is the county administration building. Front and centre, towards the bottom of the frame, is the Bergen train station (look for the granite building). To the right is the Lille Lungegård Lake (you can learn more about the lake with my Årstad walking tour) and behind that are the KODE art galleries. To the right you can see the tower of St. John’s Church.

    If you walk along Fjellveien a little further, you’ll get more excellent views down to the city.

    Mt. Ulriken

    This is why I think doing the walk from Sandviken – Bellevue is nicest; you get this amazing reveal of Bergen’s largest of the seven mountains, Mt. Ulriken. Mount Ulriken is 633 metres high and is characterised by its TV tower on top. There is a cable car that will take you to the top of Mt. Ulriken, and it’s also a popular (but difficult) hike.

    Forskjønnelsen (Beautification)

    Beautification is a scenic zig-zag road and park that leads from Kalfaret up to Fjellveien. It was designed as a park in 1799 and has some lovely old villas close by (see my Årstad Walking Tour where I cover this in depth). It was formerly known as Lassens Minde (Lassens Memorial) after the parks designer, Customs Inspector HM Lassen, who also had the bushes and trees planted.

    This is a way back to the city if you wish to use it rather than take a bus back. If you head to the bottom you’ll end up on Kalfvarveien; turn right and you’ll see Stadsporten (The City Toll Gate). A couple minutes walk from there is the Bergen Train Station.

    Kalfaret

    Kalfaret is a suburb just outside the city centre of Bergen and was ‘the country’ (i.e. not part of Bergen) until 1877. The name comes from Calvarieveien (Calvary Road) and refers to the old Catholic tradition of walking around a road that is 1200 steps in length on Good Friday. This is approximately the distance from St. Jacobs Churchyard (next to Stadsporten) up to Kalfartoppen, the highest point in Kalfaret (this is the first portion of the walk we’ll take).

    Starting in the 18th century, a number of country houses were built along Kalfarveien. At the end of the 18th century, a row of Linden Trees were planted along the road, and gradually it was turned into a promenade that became a popular day trip walk with a number of restaurants and cafes along the way.

    In the 19th century, wealthy citizens began to move out of the city centre due to overcrowding and had lovely villas built along the mountainside in Kalfaret. Since then, Kalfaret has been synonymous with ‘wealthy Bergen’.

    Today a lot of the country houses are gone or have been significantly converted, and the large gardens have been filled with modern apartments. Still, we will be able to see some of the old villas from the late 19th century, and there’s also great examples of the Bergen-style houses.

    Bellevue Restaurant

    Lyststedet Bellevue has been a restaurant since 1976, when a gazebo was built here. A prospectus from 1801 shows a midmarket house on the site. It was rebuilt in 1899 as a restaurant, and has been a restaurant ever since. It is typically used for weddings and other celebrations. In earlier times, salutes were fired upon guests’ arrival.

    Today Lyststedet Bellevue is run by Bellevue Restaurant AS, which also runs Fløien Folkerestaurant and Bryggen Tracteursted.

    The business went bankrupt in 2016 and was transferred to another company. As of 2020, their website isn’t live (see here) and the Bellevue Restaurant AS company doesn’t list it on their website.

    Bellevue Restaurant marks the end of our walk!

    How to get back to the city

    Walking

    If you want to walk back to the city, you can follow the Fjellveien hike back to Beautification (if you want to be closer to the train station) or the Tippetue junction (if you want to be closer to Bryggen). You can also take Endregårdsbakken (just after Beautification) to get to the city centre. It will turn into Brattlien and that road will end just above Korskirken.

    Take the bus

    • Walk down Bellevuebakken (it’s to the right of the restaurant if you’re looking at it from Fjellveien).
    • When you reach Gamle Kalvedalsveien, turn left.
    • On your right will be a path down to the main road, Kalvedalsveien. When you get to the bottom, turn right. Shortly on your side of the road will be a bus stop.
    • Take Bus 3 to Støbotn for 8 minutes (6 stops) and you’ll be at Bryggen.

    I hope you enjoyed this walk! As you can probably tell by the amount of photos I took, I loved it. I think it’s a great option for anyone in Bergen who wants to see a lot in a short amount of time. You get a perfect blend of nature and cityscapes, and the walk itself is pleasant.

    Enjoy Fjellveien!

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, History, Museums

    A Guide to Gamle Bergen

    A Guide to Gamle Bergen

    For me, Gamle Bergen was one of those places I occasionally took groups, but never really understood. I never had the chance to go there myself, and when I was with tourists I was too busy with them. As a tour guide, I memorised information about the important houses, and always made sure to give them their maps and point them in the right direction, but that’s about it. I never understood why to make the journey to Gamle Bergen when modern Bergen is full of old houses!

    With the corona situation, I’ve had much more free time to go exploring, and it’s finally giving me the chance to build up this blog. I decided that I would visit Gamle Bergen and write about it for Hidden North, hoping to find some new appreciation for the museum. And boy, did I!

    So, for my Gamle Bergen Guide, I’m going to go over what you can see at the museum but also the hidden attractions around the museum because, honestly, they are just as special (and they are free!)

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    What is Gamle Bergen?

    Gamle Bergen (English: Old Bergen) is an open-air museum located a few kilometres outside the city centre of Bergen. The museum was established to save the characteristic houses that represent Bergen architecture. Bergen did catch fire often!

    The museum’s founder was Kristian Bjerknes (1901-1984), a cultural historian and member of a group of likeminded locals. He became the first director of the museum and ran it until 1971. As the city was expanding at the beginning of the 20th century, the widening of streets led to the demolition of many of Bergen’s wooden homes. The museum group would instead take the houses and place them on their site.

    In 1944, a German freight ship exploded on the Bergen Harbour. The explosion damaged many wooden houses, and the museum sped up its efforts to save these buildings. They were rebuilt at Gamle Bergen.

    The museum has 32 houses plus smaller buildings and items from the old times. Gamle Bergen’s purpose is to highlight Bergen’s history and cultural life, with objects and information boards telling about what it was like to live in Bergen in the 18th and 19th centuries.

    Historic Overview of the Site

    Gamle Bergen was built on Elsesro, an old summer estate. The wealthy shipbuilder Rasmus Rolfsen had Elsesro built to accompany his boatyard. He named the site Elsesro after his wife Elsebe (Elsesro = Else’s Peace). In the 19th century, the pavilion, gatekeepers house, summer house, tower house and barn were added.

    Rasmus Rolfsen’s son, Tønnes Rolfsen, expanded the main building when he moved in. Damsgård Manor, which sits directly across the fjord, likely inspired the architecture of the building. Tønnes Rolfsen also had Haugen built, with its Chinese pavilion, park and ponds, designed in an English garden style.

    After Tønnes Rolfsen passed, his son Rasmus Rolfsen took over the property and continued using it as a shipbuilding business. The shipyard operations were ceased and the business was abandoned in 1839. Rasmus Rolfsen, on his travels to Copenhagen, had become interested in the liquor business and decided to use the property for that. The business didn’t last long; in the second half of the 19th century, the property was a paint-making business.

    When Rasmus Rolfsen died in 1903, he left no descendants. The city took over the estate in 1906. From 1911 to 1916, the property was used as an orphanage for children from tuberculosis homes. From 1919, the building was used as a nursing home for children with syphilis. The purpose of sending the children there was to isolate them to prevent infection as well as sure them. This home was abandoned in 1939.

    From 1936, the Gamle Bergen Association took over Elsesro in several stages, and in 1949 the museum opened with the first restored houses.

    I’ll go over the original buildings a little more on the walk-through.

    On the way to Gamle Bergen

    For my guide below, I walked from Bryggen to Gamle Bergen. Therefore, my walk starts on the opposite side of the park from the main entrance. Honestly, I found it a lot nicer than using the main entrance, which is on a dirt road. It’s much more peaceful using the side entrance as you pass these lovely historic homes as well as the old shipyards.

    The Ropemakers House

    The point in which you leave the main road to walk to the Gamle Bergen entrance begins at the recently restored Ropemaker’s House. This lovely 19th century home was the residence of the owners of the ropeworks you’ll see behind it.

    The area you walk through now is an area that has many historical monuments. Sadly it’s also an industrial area, so there’s a mix of history and then ugly modernity.

    Måseskjaeret

    Hidden amongst the industrial buildings is Måseskjaeret, a 1798 villa (lystgård in Norwegian) that sits out on the water. The building has been converted into modern warehouse buildings.

    Ditleffsengen & the Sailors Homes (Strandens grend)

    Ditleffsengen is another 18th-century villa we pass on our left.

    After this building, we pass a village-like cluster of old houses known as Strandens grend today. These were the homes of sailors as well as workers at the factories. They also signify the northernmost part of Sandviken.

    Holmefjordboden

    This building was built in 1804 for merchant Johan Ernst Mowinckel, who imported corn, textiles and other ‘kolonial’ products. For a while, this was also a stockfish warehouse.

    Masteboden

    Masteboden, or the ‘mast booth’ is part of the original Elsesro property; and is the long brick warehouse on the waterfront. It was the building that was built to repair the Russian ship. Rasmus Rolfsen repaired the ship, a task which took one year and 8 months. The building is probably the largest privately owned Empire-style brick building in Bergen.

    The Old Postal Road

    Just before the Gamle Bergen entrance, close to the gate there is the first leg of the postal road that ran from Bergen to Trondheim; the route can be followed for many kilometres into the hills above the modern street of Helleveien. At the side of it is a water mill which incorporates the vestiges of one fo the largest mill complexes of Old Bergen, Storemøllen, which began in the 16th century. It was torn down in 1971.

    Gunhilds River

    The brook, besides being a remnant of a once so forceful stream that propelled the giant wheels of the mill, is a historic landmark of the first rank. This is Gunhildåen, ‘Gunhild’s River’, which is mentioned in Bergen’s City Laws of 1276 as being the northern boundary of the city; from here the boundary ran inland far into the hills before turning southward.

    Today the river is called Sandvikselven (Sandvik River), and it comes out of a ravine called Munkebotn (The Monk’s Hollow). The name derives from the fact that in the Late Middle Ages the Dominican brethren in Bergen had property and mill rights in this area.

    Inside Gamle Bergen - the free part

    Now it’s time to go into Gamle Bergen. As we do, it’s worth noting that the park can almost be seen in two parts: there is a free part you can walk through (it’s very popular with locals) and see most of the buildings from there.

    There is also a paid portion of the park, and that consists of the famous ‘street’ and surrounds. During the summer months, the buildings in the paid portion of the park are opened up and you can step inside and view exhibitions. Additionally, they have actors representing people from the 18th and 19th centuries that you can talk to, and they give little demonstrations throughout the day.

    The paid portion of the park is only for the summer months, May to September, and outside of those months you can explore the paid portion of the park for free, however the buildings are closed up.

    Does that make sense? I think so. Let me summarise:

    • Free Park: Some buildings. Open all year
    • Paid Park: Best preserved buildings. Costs money between May-September with entrance into the buildings and exhibitions. Free off-season, but the buildings are closed.

    Now let’s do the free part of the park first.

    Elsero

    One of the first buildings you’ll pass is Elsesro, the original summer residence. The central part was built by shipbuilder Rasmus Rolfsen in 1785, while his son Tønnes Rolfsen added the two wings around 1810 to make it look more grant. Tønnes made the property into a miniature manor that was very popular at the time; he had the whole area landscaped and created dams and small waterfalls.

    Today Elsesro is a lovely Norwegian restaurant.

    The Park

    If you continue past Elsesro, you’ll soon arrive at the garden, which has been designed in the style of an English garden. This was a common type of park in the 18th century. To speak romantically, the English garden was to emphasise man’s rational and emotional sides. At the same time, the park was supposed to look natural.

    Today it’s the home of some ducks and geese.

    The Pavilion

    The pavilion was part of Tønnes Rolfsen’s expansion, and it was designed in a Chinese style. The view from the pavilion once inspired J.C. Dahl to paint one of the finest views of the hometown, but Edvard Grieg also found inspiration here. He borrowed the pavilion in 1873/74 to serve as his studio while writing the music for Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson’s play Olav Tryggvason and then for Henrik Ibsen’s Peer Gynt.

    While the pavilion is nice, it’s the view you come here for. You can see three of Bergen’s seven mountains, Sandviken, and the city fjord. On a sunny day, this view is everything. It’s easy to see why artists like J.C Dahl and Edvard Grieg would come here for inspiration of their city.

    If you walk along the park, you’ll see a lovely white manor hiding behind the trees.

    Frydenlund

    Frydenlund was built in 1797 for the wealthy merchant Lorentz Holtermann as his summer estate at Sandviken. The name means ‘grove of delight’ and became a major summer estate for himself and his family.

    The house consisted of Lorentz, his wife Anna Margrethe, their five small children, a housekeeper, four serving girls, a farmhand and three merchants clerks. Holtmann sold the property in 1832 and it was passed around by various wealthy merchants. In 1870 it underwent a major renovation. After the war, it had to be demolished to make way for a housing project, so it was moved to Gamle Bergen in 1949.

    Inside Gamle Bergen - the paid part

    Now let’s move on to the paid portion of the park. As mentioned above, you can go inside the buildings and see exhibitions there. I’ll try and get back later this year to take photos of the interiors, but for now, I’ll explain each building you can see.

    Let’s start with the so-called ‘main street’. I’ll go through the buildings in order as if you were walking up the hill and passing them.

    The Watchmaker's House & Sea Captain's House

    The watchmaker’s house (green) and the sea captain’s house (white) are located at the bottom of the hill.

    The Baker's House (The Yellow Building)

    The Baker’s House was built in 1728 to house, you guessed it, a bakery. Originally the building was one floor; the second storey and attic were added in 1788.

    This wasn’t just any baker’s house; this was the home and bakery of Master baker Ditlef Martens. His son, Nikolai Martens, ran the bakery from 1840 and the Martins family owned 11 bakeries in the city. Back then, the profession of the baker was a privileged status, and there could only be 25 bakers in the city.

    Nikolai Marten’s great grandfather, grandfather, father, brother, son, grandson and great-grandson were all master bakers in Bergen. This particular bakery was located just behind St. Mary’s Church. The bakery operated until the 1944 explosion.

    The Merchant's House (The Blue Building)

    The Merchant’s House is an example of a Norwegian merchant’s home in Nordnes; this building was located just behind Nykirken Church. Originally this building would’ve had a lovely courtyard, stone cellar, and washhouse. As Bergen became increasingly populated in the 19th century, this house was converted into a three-storey apartment building. In total, there were six apartments.

    Once at the top of the hill, you’ve reached the main square. I’ll go around the buildings clockwise from here.

    The House of Craft and Trade

    The home dates back to after the fire of 1756. It functioned as a residence until it moved to Gamle Bergen. It houses various artisan workshops, though it was originally a residence.

    Inside the building, you can see a printing press, bookbinding workshop, Bergens Tidende (Newspaper) office, plumber workshop, and photo studios with waiting rooms.

    The Glazier's House

    The home dates back to after the fire of 1756. It functioned as a residence until it moved to Gamle Bergen. It houses various artisan workshops, though it was originally a residence.

    Inside the building, you can see a printing press, bookbinding workshop, Bergens Tidende (Newspaper) office, plumber workshop, and photo studios with waiting rooms.

    The Town Hall

    This building was originally owned by the Solhimsviken Indremisjonsforening (Solheimsviken Evangelical Association), which used the hall as a chapel. Yes, this is a religious building! Doesn’t look like it today, right?

    When Solheimsviken was undergoing a major renovation in the 1970s, the chapel was expropriated, and then in 1977 Gamle Bergen was offered the building. The museum uses the hall for assembly events, so all the religious symbols have been removed.

    The House of the Official

    You can tell this was the house of the official. Back then, the most privileged houses were completely symmetrical; compare this to the merchant’s house, the baker’s, or the glazier’s house, for example.

    The House of the Official stood on Kong Oscars Gate (near the Leprosy Hospital/City Gate (Stadsporten). Carsten Lydkien, a customs agent and police prosecutor, lived here from 1795. The property remained a single-family home until 1914, something not many houses in Bergen can claim.

    Dentist's House

    This is another Nordnes building; in fact, it was the neighbour of the merchant’s house. It was a residence for a middle-class family. The building itself underwent a modernisation in the 19th century, getting a lovely new Swiss-style facade. The building is converted into a dentist’s home and surgery representing the period 1885-1900. Take a look at the dentist’s equipment if you can go inside. Thank god we live in the 21st century.

    There is also an umbrella business in the building, because Bergen.

    Dorothe Engelbretsdatters House

    Dorothe Engelbretsdatter is a well known Bergen priest and writer from the 18th century. She is the first known female writer in Norway.

    Dorothe lost her original home in the 1702 fire. As a priest, she had trouble building a new house and lived for a long time in a poor house. When King Frederik IV of Denmark/Norway visited in 1704, Dorothe handed him a poem and prayer letter and asked for his help for a new house. He didn’t help her. After she asked the city authorities in 1709 she got her house.

    The Grocer's Shop

    In Norway, grocer’s shops were referred to as ‘Kolonial Stores’ because they were where people would buy goods ‘from the colonies’. These shops started appearing in the 1870s, but it was not until the 20th century that this type of shop began to dominate the grocery trade. Back when the Kolonial Stores were the grocery shops, they were special local shops. Goods weren’t stored in people’s homes like they are today. Grocery products were bought in small quantities every day. It’s kind of like a ‘storeroom’ for the nearby houses.

    Krohnstedet

    Krohnstedet is a typical summer estate that appeared in Bergen in the 18th century. It was built for the wealthy merchant Hans Krohn. Hans Krohn ran one of the city’s biggest shipping companies that imported and sold wine. He had twelve children with four wives, and only six children survived to adulthood.

    The house is accompanied with by caretaker’s house, which was common at the time.

    Now make your way back to the main square. Once at the main square. You’ll see there is a path that runs in front of the sailor’s house. It’s a lovely secret path where you can see the backs of these old buildings. It will also take you back to where we began and marks the end of my little walk!

    Now onto the practical information.

    Practical Information

     

    Opening Hours

    Gamle Bergen is open from mid-May to mid-August.

    During mid-August to mid-May, you can still walk around Gamle Bergen for free. Just keep in mind that you can’t go inside the buildings.

    Getting There
    Walking

    Gamle Bergen is a thirty-minute walk from Bryggen. The walk is mostly flat, with some gentle inclines. It’s a lovely walk; you walk through historic Sandviken before turning off to reach the ropemaker’s house. For my above walking tour, I walked from Bryggen and took the back entrance from there.

    Bus

    From Bryggen:

    Take Bus 3, 4, 5, 6 from the bus stop in front of the wooden houses. The bus ride takes 10 minutes and the name of the bus stop is ‘Gamle Bergen’. Once off the bus, cross the road and follow signs to Gamle Bergen. This takes you to the main entrance, not my side entrance.

    Tickets can be bought via the Skyss App, on the bus (for 2x the cost of the app), or at a ticket machine.

    I hope you liked my Gamle Bergen guide 🙂

    Sources:

    Gamle Bergen brochure

    Nordhagen. Per Jonas. Bergen Guide & Handbook. Bergensiana-Forlaget. 1992.   

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide