Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • How to See the Northern Lights in Tromsø

    How to see the Northern Lights in Tromsø

    Tromsø is one of the best places in the world to witness the northern lights. But how do you see the northern lights in Tromsø?

    I’ve been working as a northern lights trip leader for four seasons now. I take groups on two week trips up to Northern Norway and Finland to see the northern lights. On top of that, I follow all the Facebook groups for Tromsø that debate how to see the northern lights. Often I see the same questions over and over again, as well as the same mistakes, so I thought I’d put it all together into a guide so you can make sure you’re making the most of your visit.

    Here’s my guide to how you can optimise your chances for a successful experience. 

    In this article...

    Choose the Right Time of Year & Day

    The best time to see the northern lights in Tromsø is from September through to early April. The best time for the lights in Tromsø is between 6pm and 2am, though they can be seen any time it is dark enough. The optimal time is due to the earths rotation, with the aurora belt being strongest on one side and weaker on one side.

    If you just want to see the lights and avoid cold weather and snow, then I recommend going in September. If you want to combine northern lights with all the wintery activities, I recommend going in February and March. October – January can have excellent northern lights, but it’s often stormy and rainy and the darkest time of year, meaning you never get to see how beautiful the area is.

    Give Yourself Enough Time

    You need to spend at least four nights above the arctic circle to give yourself the best chance of seeing the lights. It’s often cloudy in Tromsø, so many nights are not optimal. I actually recommend spending a week up there if you are very eager to see the lights.

    Check Weather & Solar Activity

    It’s important for the northern lights that you have clear skies and avoid cloudy conditions. Tromsø’s weather can be unpredictable, so keep an eye on forecasts. Even if the weather forecast is cloudy, still check outside. The forecasts can often be wrong!

    In Tromsø, the weather forecast is more important than the solar forecast. Tromsø is exposed to the sea and frequently gets bad weather and clouds, so it’s important to be aware of this before going.

    It’s also important to check solar activity. While Tromsø is so far north even weak and inactive northern lights can be visible, it’s best to keep an eye on the activity so you know when there’ll be strong nights or weak nights.

    It’s worth noting that the northern lights may suddenly appear as explosions in the sky, and then disappear quickly again. Or they may appear as a fog for hours before exploding in the sky. It’s important to be actively looking throughout the evening, and not give up too early.

    I took this photo approximately 20 minutes out of Tromsø and we were parked by the highway (was on a guided tour). 

    Go to a Dark Location

    While the northern lights can be seen from Tromsø city centre, they’ll never look as good as they can without light pollution. Therefore, you need to get out of the lights of the city.

    If in Tromsø centre, the best places to go are:
    Fjellheisen cable car
    Prestvannet Lake is a nature reserve with no artifical illumination.
    Kongsbakken park has no streetlights.
    Telegrafbukta is a popular beach on the southern tip of the island and is a top choice for spotting the northern lights.

    Alternatively, you can book accommodation out of the city centre so you’ll be guaranteed dark nights. On this occasion, you may want to hire a car to take yourself into the city every day.

    I’m not going to recommend places out of the city centre as I do not encourage you renting a car and driving around.

    Go on a Guided Tour

    My best advice is to go on an organised tour with a local guide who is able to share their knowledge and offer some advice. The guides monitor the weather, cloud cover and northern lights activity carefully.

    There are two different times of northern lights tours:

    A northern lights hunt involves going by car, minibus, or full-size bus and the focus of this activity is seeing the northern lights.

    A northern lights experiences combines hunting for the northern lights with an activity, such as dog sledding, snowmobiling, or a reindeer safari. In this case, the focus of the activity is the experience, and the northern lights is the bonus.

    Which one is better? This is completely up to you! Some prefer the idea of doing an experience so the entire night isn’t a waste in case you don’t see the lights, but experiences make it harder to photograph the northern lights.

    Northern lights may only appear for a minute, so it’s important to have someone constantly watching the sky.

    I recommend browsing the VisitTromsø website for ideas on what kind of tours you can do: https://www.visittromso.no/northern-lights

    Go on a Cruise

    Northern lights cruises are another good way to see the lights. These cruises take you far out of the city lights and will provide stunning backdrops with mountains and fjords as you take photographs of northern lights.

    My photo above was taken from Hurtigruten near the port of Skjervøy. Being on a ship can give a more dynamic photo, but you have to adjust to the fact that the ship is moving. 

    Book Everything in Advance

    It’s important to keep in mind that Tromsø is extremely popular for northern lights tourism, and everything books out months in advance. This includes the good hotels and northern lights guides. So be organised and have everything ready well before you come to Tromsø.

    Go Somewhere Else in Norway

    Tromsø is not the only city in Norway that gets northern lights. If you want to avoid overly crowded areas and mass tourism, here are some other places that offer northern lights experiences and tours and won’t be as busy:
    – Alta
    – Kirkenes
    – Narvik
    – Svolvær
    – Kautokeino

    Do not Hire a Car!

    I know it can be tempting to hire a car to go out northern lights searching yourself, but I do not recommend it. The roads can be icy and dark, and if you aren’t used to driving on ice in the dark, you risk crashing and injuring yourself of others. Many may also not focus clearly on the road if they are eager to get to a northern lights spot. Please book a tour – it’s for the safety of yourself and the locals.

    Emma's Northern Lights Diary

    You can see all my northern lights sightings using the link below. 

    How to Observe the Northern Lights

    Here’s my general guide to observing the northern lights. 

  • Where to Stay in Geiranger, from a Tour Leader’s Perspective

    Where to Stay in Geiranger from a Tour Leader's Perspective

    Gerianger is one of the most popular places to stay when it comes to the Western Fjords, and I can completely understand why! This charming fjord village provides spectacular views, unique activities, and is within walking distance to some of Norway’s best hikes.

    However, Geiranger is also a huge tourist town, with hotels selling out months in advance. During the day, the town can feel overcrowded – especially when the cruise ships are in. However, Geiranger in the evenings and early mornings is wonderful, and as long as you don’t mind the crowds, you’ll love it here!

    There are so many hotels in Geiranger, with more popping up all the time. But where is the best place to stay? Well, I’ve stayed in Geiranger several times at various different hotels, so I’ve put together this handy guide to help you choose the right spot in Geiranger.

    Tip:When I was researching this guide, I put in a one-night stay in June (6 months away) and many accommodation options only had one room left, especially the good value ones. Some were even sold out.

    Affiliate links: None of the hotels recommended here are paid placements or have sponsored this article in any way. This guide comes from my years of experience travelling to Geiranger for work and holiday, and I’m simply choosing the hotels I believe to be the best choice. That said, if you book through the link provided here, I get a small commission at no extra cost to you, and that money contributes to this website. I appreciate any support I can get 🙂

    Price Range:

    Budget: Less than 1500 NOK a night
    Mid-range: 1500 – 2600 NOK a night
    High end: 2600 NOK a night

    I looked at one night in June in the following year from when I wrote this article to get my price list.

    In this article...

    Map of Geiranger

    High Up

    Why Stay Here?

    If it’s views you’re after, then I’d recommend choosing a hotel high up on the mountains. The advantages are that you get spectacular views, are close to the hikes, the museum, and driving in/out of Geiranger, but the disadvantage is that anytime you want to go into the village, there’s a bit of a hike waiting for you.

    Photo of Geiranger from the Flydalsjuvet photo spot. You can see Hotel Union in the bottom centre. The view in the photo is similar to what you’d get at Hotel Utsikten.

    High End

    Hotel Union

    If you want to stay in Geiranger, I’d say that Hotel Union is one of the best hotels here. This historic hotel began over one hundred years ago when tourism began coming to Geiranger, and the same family has owned it ever since. In the basement they have some of the most beautiful vintage cars that I’ve ever seen (and that comes from someone who doesn’t care for cars!) as the same family also brought taxis to Geiranger. The rooms are spacious, the hotel restaurant is excellent, and there’s even a spar with indoor and outdoor pools. You pay a premium for a room with a view out to the fjord, but I must say it’s worth it.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Hotel Utsikten

    Hotel Utsikten is the main competitor to Hotel Union, and is located very close by. “Utsikten” means “The View” and here you will get spectacular views out to the Geirangerfjord. Prices are very similar to Hotel Union, and here you’ll also pay a premium for a fjord view. Hotel Union is better as an overall package, but Hotel Utsikten has a much better view.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Dalen Hytte

    Dalen is a little ways out of Geiranger, but it’s worth it for the price and views. A cabin with one bedroom and a private bathroom is 1300 NOK in the high season, which is crazy low for Geiranger. Don’t expect high end luxury, but for that low price you can park right next to your cabin and sit on your front porch enjoying views of the mountains. The accommodation offers even cheaper cabins with shared bathrooms, or you can opt for some glamping. While I’ve put this under the “mid range” category, this is definitely one of the best-value stays in Geiranger.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Fossen Camping

    Fossen is where I stayed in 2020 and I was impressed by the incredible views you get for the price. When researching this article, most of the cabins in summer were sold out so it was hard to get a price list. The cabins come with balconies overlooking the fjords and are relatively modern inside, though still with some rustic cabin charm. They have TVs inside as well as a kitchenette. You can park right by your cabin. 

    Click here to view rates & book

    By the Fjord

    Why Stay Here?

    If you want to be within minutes walk of Geiranger’s attractions, experiences and shops, this is a good place to stay. However, keep in mind that it’ll be very crowded during the daytime. The views aren’t as spectacular as they are from higher up, but you’re choosing convenience by staying by the fjord. 

    High End

    Grande Fjord Hotel

    This hotel is located right by the fjord at the bottom of the Ørnesvingen switchback road. The views from the hotel are excellent and there is a highly recommended breakfast here. All rooms (except for the “Basic” category) offer views out to the fjords, and the room size is generous with coffee machines in all the rooms. Some rooms come with patios out to the fjord as well. The only downside is that it is about a 20 minute walk into Geiranger, but if you’re here in the high season this will be a nice escape from the massive crowds during the day. The hotel even has its own distillery – Geiranger Brenneri – and you can take a tour or try some gin and aquavit.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Havila Hotel

    If you want to stay in the centre of Geiranger close to all the shops and restaurants, this is your pick. The rooms are well-designed but on the small side. The cheapest rooms are about 2,500 NOK a night, but I put this in mid-range as it’s the best option you’ll get if you want to stay in the heart of Geiranger.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Solhaug Fjordcamping

    This one is at the top of my list for where to stay next time I visit Geiranger. These modern cabins come with kitchenettes, TVs, a coffeemaker, and porches with views out to the fjord. Larger cabins have separate bedrooms, while smaller ones have bunkbeds. The cheaper cabins have shared bathrooms, while the more high-end ones (which are 2,400 NOK a night) have private bathrooms). The walk into Geiranger is around 10-15 minutes.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Solhaug Fjordcamping

    Geiranger Camping is more of an RV-park than a cabin rental place. Located right by the waterfront and only a minutes walk from the ‘main street’, the prices are very low – just 290 NOK a night for an RV – and the views are excellent.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Neighbouring Villages

    Why Stay Here?

    If you have a car, I recommend staying out of Geiranger. By staying twenty minutes out of town, you save a ton of money on accommodation and will also have a more peaceful, authentic fjord experiences. There are some lovely places to stay in the surrounding areas, and the commute into Geiranger is beautiful. 

    High End

    Valldal Fjordhotell

    Located approximately 30 minutes and one ferry ride from Geiranger, Valldal Fjordhotel is a highly rated hotel with good-size rooms, amazing views, and excellent food. The hotel is approximately mid-way between Trollstigen and Geiranger, so if you’re visiting more to explore the nature, this could be a good pick. Valldal is also not touristy, so you’ll get a more authentic fjord experience.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Hjelle Hotel

    Hjelle Hotel is a charming historic hotel in a tiny village called Hjelle. If you want to avoid tourists, this is the spot for you. The hotel was established in 1896 by Thor Hjelle, who was only 20 years old at the time. The hotel is still run by the family who has been living there since the 1900s, and there’s a white sandy beach close by with some incredible hikes. All the rooms have a lovely historic charm and some come with balconies out to the fjords.

    It’s about a one hour drive into Geiranger from Hjelle.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Hesthaug Gård

    Located in Eidsdal, around 20 minutes by car from Geiranger, these charming little cabins are perfect if you want to stay in nature. The cabins also come with kitchens so you can cook for yourself. Don’t expect luxury inside the cabins, they are very typical of how Norwegians stay when they are out in nature.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Petrine’s Gjestgiveri

    ‘Gjestgiveri’ is a word for an inn or bed and breakfast, and this one is absolutely charming. Located about 40 minutes from Geiranger by car, Petrine’s Gjestgiveri is in a quiet fjord village. There are 10 rooms here with good views in all directions, and there’s even a restaurant in the hotel. Highly recommended if you want a quiet, relaxing stay.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Eidsdal Camping & Feriehus

    These cabins are located in Eidsdal, which is about a twenty minute drive from Geiranger. If you are a few friends or a family travelling together, these cabins are amazing value. The cabins are basic, but they have a cosy feel.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Nygård Camping

    Located on the Strynfjellsvegen scenic road, Nygård Camping is an excellent-value cabin stay. A one-bedroom cottage is only 1200 NOK (compared to 3000 NOK+ you pay for hotels in Geiranger) and the location is stunning. It does take about 45 minutes to drive to Geiranger, but there’s still a lot to do in the area.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Are there Airbnbs?

    There are Airbnbs, but please don’t consider booking one. If you want an apartment, consider one of the cabins mentioned in this guide. You can get much nicer quality hotels and apartments and don’t need to stay at an Airbnb. 

    Final Thoughts on Where to Stay in Geiranger

    I think my best tip for booking in Geiranger is to consider what’s more important – proximity to activities or serenity in nature. From there, you can narrow down your search. Personally, I prefer staying out of Geiranger in a cabin in the mountains. But if I was to stay in Geiranger, I’d choose Hotel Union for sure. 

    Be sure to check out my Geiranger travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the beautiful fjord region. 

  • Famous Films & Series Shot in Norway

    Famous Films & Series Shot in Norway

    I love watching movies, and I especially love when I’m watching a movie and come across a shot where I stop and go – hey, that’s Norway! It’s always so exciting to see places I’ve been up on the big screen. I’ve put together a list of some of the biggest movies and television series that have been partially filmed in Norway. I hope you enjoy this list, and if I’m missing anything be sure to let me know!

    Films & Series Shot in Norway

    The Snowman (2017)

    Okay, the Snowman is included in this list despite being based off a Norwegian novel because the movie used foreign actors and was filmed in English. This thriller follows a detective in Oslo investigating a string of mysterious murders. They filmed in Oslo, Bergen, and the mountains around Rjukan.

    In the trailer you’ll recognise the Atlantic Road as well as various mountain shots.  

    For me, the most exciting part was when they filmed an aerial shot of Bergen, and I could see my apartment!

    Ex Machina (2014)

    This is probably the first movie I remember hearing about being filmed in Norway. Ex Machina is a sci-fi movie that explores artificial intelligence as a young programmer visits a reclusive genius’s remote mountain estate for a Turing test experiment. This movie was filmed at the gorgeous Juvet Landscape Hotel in Valldal, close to Trollstigen. The hotel was designed by Norwegian architects Jensen & Skodvin, who also designed the hotel’s spa area, where most of the scenes were shot. 

    You can actually stay at the hotel! Click here to visit their website. 

    Mission Impossible: Fallout (2018)

    Tom Cruise loves Norway and has filmed multiple Mission Impossible movies here – he recently filmed up in Svalbard. In Mission Impossible: Fallout, Tom Cruise’s character, Ethan Hunt, finds himself in a helicopter chase that takes place in Norway’s fjords. They filmed at Pulpit Rock (Preikestolen) as well as Lysefjord.

    Correct me if I’m wrong, but I’m sure when he’s on Pulpit Rock in the movie they are claiming he is in India – right?

    Dune: Part One (2021)

    Dune is a hugely successful movie that I honestly didn’t know was partly filmed in Norway! While the movie is set on desert plants, they used some shots of the dark, mountainous landscape of Norway, in particular the region around Stadlandet. In one of the first photos published of the film, you see Timothee Chalamet as protagonist Paul Atreides walking on a beach on his home planet of Caladan before embarking for Arrakis – that beach is at Stadlandet.

    If you watch the YouTube video above, you’ll see bits of Stadlandet at the beginning. 

    Kingsman: The Golden Circle (2017)

    Some scenes of this popular spy-action film were shot in Norway, including at the Trollstigen Tourist Road.

    The Empire Strikes Back (1980)

    This classic Star Wars movie used Norway’s Hardangerjøkulen glacier to represent the snowy planet of Hoth. You can see this glacier when taking the train between Bergen and Oslo – it’s located at the stop Finse.

    You can see the landscape in the YouTube video above. 

    No Time to Die (2021)

    Spy-action movies sure love Norway! In No Time to Die, there are several scenes set against Norway’s beautiful nature, especially car chases. A car chase scene takes place along the Atlantic Road (see the YouTube video above). You also see a girl fleeing from a masked man on a frozen lake. This quiet lake is called Langvann and is located near Hakadal, a village north of Oslo.

    The Golden Compass (2007)

    This adaptation of Phillip Pullman’s novel captures the icy, northern aesthetic of Norway as part of a fantasy Arctic setting. Svalbard was used for the shots of frozen landscapes.

    Black Widow (2021)

    Some scenes of this Marvel film are set in Norway, where the protagonist hides out early in the movie. Black Widow was filmed around Sæbø in Western Norway, a picturesque village surrounded by fjords and mountains.

    Here’s a detailed overview of where the film was shot (click here). 

    You can even book a tour to see all the filming locations (click here). 

    Tenet (2020)

    This mind-bending thriller by Christopher Nolan features sequences filmed in Norway’s dramatic settings, including a spectacular boat scene. They filmed around Oslo’s Opera House as well as the Romsdalsfjord and the town of Åndalsnes.

    Thor: The Dark World (2013)

    It makes sense that they filmed a Thor movie in Norway! This Marvel movie uses the natural landscapes of Norway to enhance Asgardian and otherworldly scenes.

    Harry Potter & the Half Blood Prince (2009)

    Though set in the UK, some sweeping aerial shots in the film were filmed in Norway. They used the mountains and fjords around Trolltunga. The Rauma Railway near the village of Bjorli was used as a backdrop for the train ride on board the Hogwarts Express. The scene where Harry and Ron are talking about the unbreakable curse of Snape was shot inside a museum train owned by the Norwegian Railway Club.

    You can see pictures by clicking here. 

    My Norwegian Holiday (2023)

    This Netflix Christmas movie was filmed in Bergen. I remember the week they filmed was torrential rain, but you don’t see any of that in the final movie!

    Downsizing (2017)

    The Matt Damon movie Downsizing was filmed in Norway, mostly around the Lofoten Islands. You can see bits of this at the end of the trailer shown above. 

    Succession TV Series

    Succession is one of my favourite television series, and I love that they used Norway as a location for the last season. They filmed around Åndalsnes and include the Romsdal Gondola, the Juvet Landscape Hotel (also seen in Ex Machina) and the Atlantic Road

     

    The Witches

    This classic film based on the book by Roald Dahl has its opening shots in Bryggen and Gamle Bergen.

    Further Reading

    Below are some links to websites with more detailed information about movie locations:

    https://upnorway.com/norway-on-the-big-screen

    https://www.norwegianfilm.com/filmography

  • Why Dragør is the Perfect Day-trip from Copenhagen

    How to Have the Perfect Dragør day-trip from Copenhagen

    If you’re looking to get out of Copenhagen for the day, one of my favourite places to visit is Dragør. A day-trip to Dragør from Copenhagen offers a charming escape to one of Denmark’s best-preserved fishing villages, and it’s only a short bus ride away from Copehagen’s busy city centre. Known for its cobblestone streets, 18th-century fisherman cottages, and views over the Øresund Strait towards Sweden, Dragør offers visitors a taste of traditional Danish life.

    Dragør Day-trip Guide

    You can learn more about Copenhagen on my dedicated travel guide page. 

    Historic Overview of Dragør

    Dragør was founded in the 1100s as a fishing village and it was used as a fishing port for centuries. In the Middle Ages, Dragør was an international marketplace for the Hanseatic merchants who came here from August to October to take part in the herring trade.

    Dragør is particularly known for its Dutch influence because the Danish king Christian II invited Dutch farmers to live here to supply food for the royal family in the 16th century. The Dutch were more agriculturally advanced than the Danish, and they actually introduced carrots to Denmark. King Christian II also wanted to reform Danish society according to Dutch ideals, and he awarded the Dutch settlers with higher status than other peasants on the islands of Amager.

    The Dutch settled in the nearby village of Store Magleby, which the bus goes through on its way in/out of Dragør. The village has a distinct Dutch look because of this history. You can learn more about the Dutch history of the region by visiting the Amager Museum, which is located in an old Dutch farm from the 16th century. Here you learn more about the Dutch who settled in this part of Denmark and what life was like at the time.

    Dutch and Low German were spoken in this region until the 19th century. The Dutch immigrants were talented and hardworking. They were particularly known for catching, salting and selling eel to the Netherlands and England. Dragør was a convenient harbour for them, and it’s assumed that the Dutch built the harbour here. For a long time, Dragør was the largest harbour out of Copenhagen.

    Today the population is 12,000. The name Dragør is made up of two words: “Drag” means “dragging boats ashore”, which “ør” is a common Scandinavian word for a beach covered in sand or gravel.

    Walking Around

    The Picturesque Streets

    Dragør is a great place to explore on foot. You’ll notice (in the old town) that the houses are built in rows going east-west and the gardens are all facing south. The streets are all bisected with alleys going north-south. Most houses were built by the master builder J.H. Blichmann. His houses were built during the economically successful era of Dragør’s shipping during the second half of the 18th century. The houses have a black tarred base, with yellow-rendered walls and red-tiled roofs. Some older houses have thatched roofs. The houses blend Danish and Dutch influence.

    Many of the street names resemble the Hanseatic and Dutch influence on the town. For example, you’ll find Lubeck Alley, Szczecin Alley, Kampensgade and Hollandsfed.

    One of the most picturesque places in Dragør is Jens Eyberts Square. It is named after a skipper who lived in number 6 on the square from 1756 to 1811 and his living room has been perfectly preserved and transferred to Dragør Museum. There is a well in the centre of the square, and this was the towns only source of drinking water until the 1800s.

    Museums

    While in Dragør, you can also visit the local history museum to learn more about the unique history and traditions of this fishing town. At the visitors centre you can pick up some maps. Dragør Museum is by the harbour in one of the oldest houses in town from 1753. Close by you’ll find Mølsted Atelier, which is probably Denmark’s smallest art gallery. On display are the works of maritime painter Christian Mølsted, who was active throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries. You can also visit the Pilot Museum (Lodsmuseum), which is located in an old tower and showcases the everyday life of a pilot as well as how to pilot a ship. Next to the museum is a 15 metre high pilot tower that was built in 1912.

    By the Harbour

    After exploring the narrow streets of the old town, head down to the harbour. This is where you’ll find many restaurants. This is also one of the oldest ports in Denmark and has been strategically important for centuries. From the herring trade in the Middle Ages to naval activity and escape in World War II, the port is fascinating.

    One of the ships docked in the harbour was involved in evacuating Jews out of Denmark into safe and neutral Sweden. The ship is called the Elisabeth K571 and it is one of the few known remaining ships in Denmark that participated in the transport of refugees from occupied Denmark to neutral Sweden in October 1943.

    Lunch Spots

    Bakeries

    Dragør is home to a good selection of bakeries, so you will not be going hungry on your visit! I particularly like Cafe Hallöy and Lagkagehuset, both of which have a good selection of pastries, sandwiches, and excellent coffee! In summer Vaffelbageren Nyhavn (Dragør) is open, which has ice cream and waffles.

    Restaurants

    When in Dragør, one of the best places to go is the local seafood place – Dragør Røgeri. This seafood shop is located by the harbour and this is where you’ll find the locals buying various types of seafood. They also cook the seafood on request, and here I recommend getting the fish and chips. You can also find Dragør Strandhotel by the harbour. This hotel has a restaurant inside with excellent seafood options.

    Exploring Beyond the Town

    Walking Trails

    If you’re looking to go for a nice walk, you can head to Dragør fortress just outside the town centre. The fortress was built in 1910 but is now privately owned and has been turned into a hotel, so it’s also a place where you can stay. From the top of the fort you get excellent views out to the water.

    To get here, there’s a trail that goes along the waterfront. If you have a clear day, you’ll be able to see the Øresund Bridge that connects Denmark to Sweden.

    After Dragør Fort you’ll pass the Goose Republic. This inland area is where the geese of Dragør live. What am I talking about? Well, I explain that in the next section.

    Further out is the Amarminoen Walk, which will take you out to the nature park on Amager (the island Dragør is on). The walk takes between five and seven hours, so be prepared for a full day trip.

    Goose Republic

    As you walk around Dragør, you’ll see geese everywhere. Not real ones, but rather little statues or paintings in peoples homes, shops and cafes. But in older times you would’ve seen real geese roaming the streets.

    For centuries the locals kept geese almost as pets. The geese would often live in the house under kitchen tables or beds. During the day, they would freely roam the streets.

    Today geese aren’t allowed to live in peoples homes, so they’ve moved out to this flat section and it has earned the nickname ‘Goose Republic’ from the locals. The geese are still important to the town and have their own little village. You can go and take a look and it’s worth it, especially in spring and summer when the goslings have hatched.

    Swimming

    If you want to try something a little more unique, it’s possible to go for a swim at the Dragør Sjøbad. There are separate male and female sections for nude bathing as well as mixed platforms where families and couples can swim (with bathers on, of course). The pool is open all year round.

    Otherwise, close by Dragør Sjøbad is a swimming beach called Mormorstranden (literally ‘Grandma’s Beach’ when translated). This is a popular spot with the locals in the summer time.

    Getting Here

    Dragør is located right next to the airport and it takes about 45 minutes to get here from Copenhagen City Centre. There are two ways to get here:

    Bus 250S goes from outside Copenhagen Central Station (stop name: Hovedbanegården Tivoli Bernstorftsgade) direct to Dragør. The trip takes approx. 40 minutes. Alternatively, you can take the train to Tårnby Station and take bus 250S from there.

    It’s recommended to have the Copenhagen Card because that makes all public transportation free.

    You can take the metro to Copenhagen Airport, and then from there you can take bus 35 to Dragør.

    It is also possible to get to Dragør by bike. You can rent a bike easily in Copenhagen with apps like Donkey Republic, Tier or Bolt. It will take up to an hour to cycle to Dragør, depending on which part of the city you’re cycling from. The best bike route to take is Bicycle Route 80 – this route goes around the island of Amager and starts in Copenhagen.

    Click here to learn more about Bicycle Route 80. 

    Final Thoughts on Dragør Day-Trip

    Hopefully I’ve managed to convince you that Dragør is a lovely spot to spend the day! Despite being so close to Copenhagen, it feels so remote and peaceful. The village is incredibly charming, and there are lovely walking trails for you to do as well.

    Enjoy your visit to Dragør!

    Be sure to check out my travel guide for Copenhagen by clicking the button above. 

  • The History of Uppsala – Sweden’s Historic Centre

    The History of Uppsala

    Uppsala, one of Sweden’s oldest and most culturally significant cities, holds a unique place in Scandinavian history. Located about 70km north of Stockholm, Uppsala has been a center for religious, political, and academic life in Sweden for over a thousand years. Known originally as a Viking-era settlement and religious center, it became the heart of Norse pagan worship, with Old Uppsala housing temples dedicated to gods like Thor, Odin, and Frey.

    With the rise of Christianity in the 12th century, Uppsala transformed into an important Christian hub, becoming the seat of the Archbishop and establishing itself as a symbol of Sweden’s emerging national identity. In the 15th century, Uppsala University was founded, making it Scandinavia’s oldest university and solidifying the city’s role as an intellectual and cultural centre. Today, Uppsala blends its rich past with a vibrant modern identity, known for its historical landmarks like the Uppsala Cathedral and its ongoing contributions to education and science. The city remains a fascinating destination to explore the layered history of Sweden, from its Viking roots to its academic and religious heritage.

    I remember on my first-ever trip to Sweden with my then-boyfriend (now husband), I wanted to take a day-trip to Uppsala from Stockholm because of the burial mounds there – I was interested in Norse mythology at the time. 

    If you’re in Stockholm I highly recommend including a day-trip to Uppsala on your journey. It’s very easy to do by train. And before you go, familiarise yourself with the history of Uppsala. Here’s my guide to the history of Uppsala, from the perspective of travelling to the region.

    The History of Uppsala

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Uppsala, including practical information and things to do. 

    Early History of Uppsala

    The first peoples came to Uppsala around 5,000BC, when the land rose following the melting of the ice from the last ice age. Originally, Uppsala was a bay, but now the area is inland. While the area around Uppsala was mentioned in the mythological Ynglinga Saga, the first historic mention of Uppsala is in the year 98.

    The Early Importance of Uppsala

    During the Iron Age, sometimes called the ‘Vendel Period’ in Swedish history, considerable wealth was built up around Gamla Uppsala from mining and trade. The settlement wasn’t where Uppsala is today, rather it was located where the region “Gamla Uppsala” is today – approximately 5km (3 miles) north of the current Uppsala.

    Gamla Uppsala was a central point for the prehistoric power structure that would later develop into Sweden as a country.

    The site was a former bay, but during the Viking Age as the land was rising, the bay somewhat disappeared. 

    The Royal Mounds

    It was during this period that the Royal Mounds were erected. The mounds are three large barrows located in the area today called Gamla Uppsala (Old Uppsala). According to folklore, the three gods Thor, Odin and Freyr would be at rest at the barrows. Originally there was also a temple here, but it’s believed that it was destroyed at the time when Christianity came to Sweden. The mounds are Sweden’s oldest national symbols. One of the mounds was excavated in the late 19th century and in the mound were remains of a man and animals, probably for food for the journey. Remains of a warriors equipment were also found.

    Medieval Scandinavians considered Gamla Uppsala to be one of the most important locations in Scandinavia. The Danish chronicler Saxo Grammaticus believed Odin resided in Gamla Uppsala. The Icelandic historian Snorri Sturlason had Odin reside at nearby Fornsigtuna, whereas the god Freyr lived at Gamla Uppsala. Saxo Grammaticus adds that Freyr began he human sacrifices at Gamla Uppsala. Sacrifices in Gamla Uppsala were also described by Adam of Bremen at the Uppsala temple. 

    It’s not quite known where the permanent settlement was. It’s believed that from the end of the Viking Age, the site was probably closest to the port. Only during the 12th century is evidence of a city properly traceable. In written documents, Uppsala is mentioned for the first time in Sweden’s oldest manuscript from 1164, 

    The Temple of Uppsala

    The Temple of Uppsala is generally regarded to have been the religious centre of Scandinavia in pre-Christian times. There are somewhat conflicting reports about the temple and its use, for example some historians believe it was used by Christians (some of the documented sacrifices there resemble Christian practices), while others believe it to be pagan. 

    The Temple was eventually destroyed, though it’s not known when. There are different opinions on where the Temple was, though many believe it was close to where Gamla Uppsala Church was built. 

    Gamla Uppsala Archaeological Site

    Today the area generally regarded to be the religious centre of Scandinavia is called the Gamla Uppsala archaeological site. This is where you’ll find the burial mounds as well as large areas of archaeological importnace – for example, up to 3,000 graves are believed to be here. 

    This was an important place during the period of Norse mythology but was also where a major general assembly called “The Thing of All Swedes” took place from prehistoric times until the end of the Viking Age. This is also where the Temple was believed to be. 

    If you are interested in learning more about the discoveries made here, you can visit the Gamla Uppsala Museum (click here for museum website). 

    Christianisation of Uppsala

    It’s believed that Uppsala was the last pre-Christian, Norse Germanic stronghold in Scandinavia. The country’s final Christianisation process took place here.

    At the end of the Viking Age, the Temple of Uppsala was replaced by a Christian Church – probably the Gamle Uppsala Church. 

    In 1164, Gamle Uppsala Church became the seat of the archbishop. A lot of power was moved to Uppsala during the Middle Ages, and the city continued to develop as an important place for Scandinavia. 

    Moving Uppsala South & Uppsala Cathedral

    When the Gamla Uppsala Church was damaged by a fire in 1204, the Chapter sought permission from the Holy See to move the church to a larger site. Pope Alexander IV granted this request in 1258, on the condition that the name Uppsala be maintained.

    So, the city was moved south. The original settlement was renamed “Gamla Uppsala” (Old Uppsala), while the new town was called Uppsala. The move officially took place in 1273, the same year that Uppsala Cathedral began. 

    Uppsala Cathedral

    Uppsala Cathedral dates to the late 13th century and, at a height of 118 metres, is the tallest cathedral in the Nordic countries. The cathedral was originally built under Roman Catholicism and was used as a coronation church for a long time. Much of the cathedral was redesigned after the fire of 1702 and after a renovation in the 1880s. 

    It is possible to visit Uppsala Cathedral. 

    Uppsala was fortified in the 14th century when the Archbishops Castle was built. The Castle is mentioned in the battles of 1497 and 1521 (mentioned below), and at the end of the War of Liberation, King Gustav restored the castle and held a coronation party there. 

    The castle caught fire in 1543 and was not restored. When the University House was built in 1879, the ruins of the castle were uncovered but no archaeological survey was carried out. 

    Uppsala University

    On the 27th of February 1477, Uppsala University was founded through a bull by Pope Sixtus IV. It became the first university int he Nordic region and the northernmost university in the world at the time.

    Education was divided into four faculties: The Faculty of Philosophy, Medicine, Law and Theology. Teaching revolved around scholastic philosophy inspired by the ancient philosopher Aristotle. 

    Uppsala University

    You can view the University’s historic collections at the Gustavianum building. 

    (click here for website)

    The Vasa Period & the Reformation (16th Century)

    While Gustav Vasa’s reign was generally regard as good for the development of Stockholm (read my separate overview of the history of Stockholm here), it was not good for Uppsala.

    With the Reformation, the university’s activities came to be severely limited. The university was Catholic, and that was not something that was appreciated by Gustav Vasa and all the new Lutherans. After the Reformation, teaching practically died out after the mid-16th century. The Reformation also meant that both power and capital were moved from the church in Uppsala to the king in Stockholm.

    In 1543, a large city fire in Uppsala destroyed St. Peter’s Church, the Franciscan Convent, and the Archbishop’s Castle, with none of them being rebuilt later.

    In 1539, the King had Uppsala Castle built in the city. The castle was later remodelled after a fire in 1572 and was expanded into a Renaissance palace. One of its most important tasks was to host the coronation festivities after the ceremony in the cathedral.

    Sweden's Century of Power (17th Century)

    In Sweden, the 17th century was a period of power and domination in Europe. For Uppsala, the city became the kingdom’s secondary capital as it was the seat of the archbishop, the Swedish Academy, and the University.

    The Lutheran King Gustav II Adolf re-established the Uppsala University as he wanted to develop Sweden into an intellectual country.

    He added subjects like political science and history. In 1622, a new university building called the Gustavianum was built (this is where the University museum is today).

    In 1624, Gustav II Adolf donated the Gustavian heritage – over 400 farms and crofts – to the university. Their value today is estimated at over 2 billion SEK.

    In 1643, the medieval city was largely demolished and rebuilt based off plans by Anders Torstensson, who designed the city in a wide grid pattern. The city’s main meeting place was moved from The Old Square to Stora Torget. The city was built within an area of 800mx1200m and was not expanded until the 19th century. The area around the cathedral escaped the city plan and demolition, so it is still characterised by an irregular street pattern.

    The Celsius House is one of the few medieval houses in the eastern city that survived demolition and doesn’t stand parallel to other houses along the pedestrian street.

    The City Fire of 1702

    One of the most important events in Uppsala’s history is the city fire on 16 May 1702. The fire started near the current Old Square. Most of Uppsala was on the west side of the river, but it had been dry for a long time and the fire was able to spread quickly in a strong wind over the wooden bridges.

    Among the damaged buildings were Uppsala Cathedral, which was almost completely burned and could not be used again until 1707. Uppsala Castle was also severely damaged and never completely rebuilt – the castle looks the same today as it did after reconstruction. Another damaged building was one of the university’s main buildings, the Academia Carolina, which was so badly damaged that it was not rebuilt.

    With the city fire, Uppsala lost its position as the kingdom’s second city and coronation city, as Ulrika Eleonora became the last Swedish monarch to be crowned here in 1719.

    The Enlightenment (18th Century)

    As an academic city, Uppsala was strongly influenced by the ideas of the Enlightenment. During the 18th century, reason and science were celebrated and during the 1720s Uppsala and the university began to flourish.

    New institutions for subjects such as chemistry, physics and economics were established.

    During this period, many of the most prominent figures of the Swedish enlightenment began to live and work in the city. Carl von Linne began mapping and systemising the plant world. Anders Celsius created Sweden’s first proper observatory in 1741, where astronomical and meteorological observations were regularly carried out.

    Romanticism & Industrialisation (19th Century)

    During the Romantic period, strong Scandinavian currents arose at universities around the Nordics. The first Scandinavian student meeting was held in 1843 in Uppsala and students from the universities in Copenhagen, Kristiania (Oslo) and Lund came to the city. In order to recognise each other at student meetings, it was decided that students should wear identical caps, which became the model for today’s student caps.

    In 1870, women gained access to the university and in 1872 Betty Pettersson became the first female student to be enrolled at a Swedish university.

    Population growth took off in the middle of the 19th century thanks to industrialisation.

    Wars & Postwar Period (20th Century)

    As Sweden was neutral during both World Wars, the city was left in tact and not directly impacted.

    Uppsala’s post-war history is characterised by expansion. Extensive parts of central Uppsala were demolished and rebuilt in a more functionalist style of architecture. Neoclassical houses from the late 19th century were largely demolished, while older houses were preserved.

    Uppsala also had strong population growth, with the municipality growing from 75,000 in 1940 to 156,000 in 1990.

    Modern Times (21st Century)

    As Sweden was neutral during both World Wars, the city was left in tact and not directly impacted.

    Uppsala’s post-war history is characterised by expansion. Extensive parts of central Uppsala were demolished and rebuilt in a more functionalist style of architecture. Neoclassical houses from the late 19th century were largely demolished, while older houses were preserved.

    Uppsala also had strong population growth, with the municipality growing from 75,000 in 1940 to 156,000 in 1990.

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Uppsala, including practical information and things to do. 

  • How to Observe the Northern Lights: A Tour Leaders Perspective

    How to Observe the Northern Lights: A Tour Leaders Experience

    Ever since I moved to Norway seven years ago, I’ve been obsessed with observing the northern lights. Luckily, when I started working as a tour leader I could live out my obsession and take people to see the northern lights all season long.

    When researching the lights online, there are so many travel companies writing ‘how to see the northern lights’ guides, and I felt as though the information wasn’t written by someone who had actually spent time observing the lights.

    So, here is my guide to observing the northern lights based on my own reading and experience standing outside during those long, cold nights.

    In this article...

    What are the northern lights?

    The northern lights, explained

    I don’t want to get into this too much; there are much smarter people out there who can explain it better than I can.

    In summary, the northern lights are created from a collision between electrically charged particles from the sun that enter the atmosphere of the earth.

    When these particles hit the earth’s magnetic shield, they are pushed around the oval that circles the North Pole (because magnets). They then interact with the upper parts of the earths atmosphere, such as oxygen, and the energy that is released from this collision makes the northern lights.

    Here’s a YouTube video from VisitNorway that explains it:

    And here is a video from TED:

    The colours of the northern lights

    The colour of the northern lights depends on the type of atom involved in the collision. Red northern lights occur at altitudes of 150 miles and above. Green occurs at altitudes of 100 miles and above and is the most common colour you’ll see. Purple and blue occur at altitudes of up to 60 miles. Purple is the second-most common colour you’ll see.

    Where should I observe the northern lights?

    I’ve seen the northern lights all over Norway and Finland, so here are my recommendations. I’ve had the best luck in Finland – Ivalo and Inari, to be exact. Finland is colder than Norway in winter, which means you have more chances of having a clear night sky. Finland is also inland, meaning there’s less risk of bad weather. The coast of Norway is exposed to bad weather, and this means it will be cloudier. Finland is also nice and flat, making it easy to see the horizon.

    Many take Hurtigruten to see the northern lights, and I have seen them on Hurtigruten several times. However, I find it harder to photograph the lights on Hurtigruten because the ship is always moving, and this doesn’t work well for a long exposure.

    I feel the Lofoten Islands is overrated for observing the northern lights. It’s very mountainous, very prone to bad weather, and located pretty far south. Of course, many have observed wonderful northern lights there. If you want to better your chances, I recommend going further north.

    When should I visit for the northern lights?

    The northern lights are visible as long as it is dark, however the weather is not kind to us every month.

    September & October are great if you want to observe the northern lights and not be standing in the snow. There can be some bad storms at the end of September, but for the most part the weather is okay. It’s also not so cold, so you won’t freeze waiting outside! Don’t come in early September; the window for observing the northern lights is small due to it not being dark enough yet.

    November, December, and January can be very overcast. Yes, they are the darkest months of the year, but they are also the month’s most prone to bad weather. Also, it’s dark during the day so it limits your day activities.  

    February and March are wonderful. The snow is at its deepest and you get normal daylight cycles. This means you can spend the day doing an activity like a husky or reindeer sled or snowshoeing, and then at night you can go out and see the lights. The only downside is that it’s the coldest time of year, so you’ll be quite cold at night.

    How long should I spend up north?

    I recommend spending 5-7 days up north minimum. 1-3 nights is simply not enough to try and see the northern lights.

    Glass igloos - are they worth it?

    At the moment, there are these glass igloos popping up all over northern Europe. They are basically cabins with glass rooves so you can lie in bed and observe the northern lights.

    They are typically so expensive, so are they worth it?

    To an extent, yes. There’s something romantic about cuddling up in bed and watching the northern lights. But if I’m thinking realistically, if the northern lights are good enough to be observed from my cabin, I want to be outside photographing them! So don’t feel like you must book a glass cabin to see the lights. I instead recommend a hotel or place of accommodation that will alert you if the lights are out.

    Understanding the apps

    It’s important to pay attention to the northern lights forecasts. The northern lights aren’t guaranteed every night. Their strength fluctuates and you can have a clear night sky and still not see anything.

    Key factors:

    • KP index. This indicates how strong the lights are. It doesn’t always matter; I’ve seen the northern lights at North Cape at KP0. However, the rule of thumb is that the higher the KP index, the more chance you have of seeing the northern lights. It also signifies how far south you can be to see them; to see them in Bergen, we need at least KP4. To see them in Tromsø, you only need KP1.
    • Speed. This indicates how fast the particles are moving. The faster the speed, the more chance you have of seeing the dancing effect.
    • BZ & BT. These numbers should ideally be in the negatives, but it doesn’t always matter
    • Density. This is important for knowing how the lights will appear. The denser the particles, the higher chance of seeing visible strands of lights. If they aren’t dense, the lights may just look like fog.

    This is the app I recommend (click here). 

    What time of night do I see the northern lights?

    The northern lights are visible throughout the night. However, there is a ‘thicker’ part to the ring around the pole, and the thicker part is over Scandinavia between 8pm and midnight. Of course, if the lights are very strong the thicker part is even thicker and you can see the northern lights better throughout the night.

    Should I book a guided tour?

    Yes.

    My number one bit of northern lights advice is to book a guided tour. Northern lights guides are professionals and have connections all over the region. They will drive you out to wherever the northern lights have been sighted by their contacts, so this increases your chances even more.

    Tromsø is the best place in Norway to book a guided tour. Yes, Tromsø is coastal, but they will most likely drive you inland to observe the lights; often as far as Finland or Sweden.

    Lapland is full of northern lights tours, so you are spoiled for choice there.

    Sure, you may want to rent a car instead. But do you really want to be driving icy roads in the middle of the night in a place you don’t know while trying to figure out where to see the lights? No, of course not.

    Guided tours are expensive, I know. But it’s worth it. You’re paying for peace of mind, experience, and safety.

    There are advantages and disadvantages to booking a northern lights tour that has an additional activity, for example snowmobiling. The advantages are that even if you don’t see the northern lights, at least you’ve had a fun night out. Northern lights bus tours can be boring if there are no northern lights. The disadvantages are that the additional activities follow a set route and timetable, so they may miss the lights. By contrast, the bus tours are more flexible to go out looking for the lights.

    How to observe the northern lights

    To observe the northern lights, you need to have a dark night sky. It needs to be dark enough so you can see the stars in the sky. Ideally, you want to be as far away from light as possible. This means getting out of the city and finding somewhere pitch black. Generally, it’s dark enough to observe the northern lights between September and March.

    For this reason, it’s recommended to go with a northern lights guide who will drive you out to somewhere suitable to view them.

    Additionally, you need to have a clear night sky. The northern lights can be observed if it’s partly cloudy, but ideally you want 100% visibility in the sky as the northern lights can appear anywhere. The northern lights occur about 100km (60 mi) above the earth, so you need to be able to see stars.

    Northern lights captured in Ivalo – February 2020

    How to photograph the northern lights

    These days mobile phones are getting better and better and you can often capture the northern lights on your phone if it is two years old or less. However, the phones will never match a professional camera when it comes to quality.

    If you plan on using a DSLR, make sure you have a tripod. The northern lights need long exposures (5-30 seconds) and you can’t hold a camera for that long without it going blurry. Keep the camera still.

    Use manual settings if you have them.

    The manual settings you want to use are:

    • Focus. Use a manual focus and focus on the stars in the sky
    • Shutter speed. Try and have an exposure of at least 5 seconds. Exposure time depends on how strong the lights are, how dense they are, and how quickly they are moving
    • ISO
    • Aperture. You want a f-stop as low as possible

    I normally set it all up on my camera and connect it to the tripod before I head out for the night. It’s harder to get it already in the pitch black or if the lights are already out.

    Wide angle lenses are recommended for using northern lights.

    Try to find a nice view if possible. If your picture just has the northern lights in it, it can be a little dull. Take a nicely framed photo!

    Bring extra batteries, the cold drains your camera quickly.

    Also, when you bring your camera inside before to slowly acclimatise it to your hotel room. If the camera goes from too cold to too hot too quickly, the glass may crack.  

    Emma's northern lights diary

    You can see all my northern lights sightings using the link below. 

  • The Aboa Vetus Museum – Finland’s Only Archaeological Museum

    The Aboa Vetus Museum - Finland's Only Archaeological Museum

    I love a good ruins museum. I go to practically every one I can – including the Christiansborg ruins in Copenhagen and the Medieval Museum in Stockholm. When I ventured out to Turku for the day, visiting the Aboa Vetus Museum was on my to do list.

    The museum itself isn’t so large, but it does provide a fascinating insight into what life was like in Finland in old times. This is especially interesting as there aren’t that many historic sites like this in Finland; the country was agricultural and largely a peasant society for hundreds of years. So, to see ruins like this in Turku is a real treat.

    What makes this museum even more interesting is that it is the only medieval & archaeological museum in Finland. 

    Here’s my guide to the museum and what you can see here.

    Aboa Vetus Museum in Turku

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Turku, including practical information and things to do. 

    About the Aboa Vetus Museum

    The museum opened in 1995 as two independent museums. Originally the plan was to only build Ars Nova, the contemporary art museum. However, during the construction several artefacts and structures dating back to the Middle Ages were discovered. This led to a major archaeological excavation that was commissioned and eventually transformed into the museum Aboa Vetus.

    In 2004, the two museums were combined. Today they are among the most popular tourist venues in the entire region of Southwest Finland.

    Aboa Vetus is the only archaeological museum in Finland and is known for its archaeological activities. After the initial excavations in the 1990s, the museum has continued archaeological research since 2005. Public engagement and community archaeology have a pivotal role in the museum. Research is done by both archaeologists and engaged volunteers.

    The name "Aboa Vetus"

    The names of the museum can seem a little strange, and I promise it’s not the Finnish name for the centre. Rather, the names come from the Latin words “Aboa Vetus”, meaning the “Old City of Turku”, and “Ars Nova”, referring to modern art.

     

    About the Building

    The building was built in 1928 and was a palace for a prominent family constructed by a tobacco manufacturer called Hans von Rettig. The palace now houses the museum.

    Entering the building itself is impressive – you see the ruins as soon as you go in!

    How These Buildings Became Ruins

    It’s worth mentioning that Turku used to be the second largest in the realm of Sweden and the largest city in Finland. Turku emerged as a centre of trade, religion and administration.

    The medieval city of Turku was largely built by the German traders who came here, and it was governed by both the Germans and the Crown and its officers. At its peak, Turku was a medium-sized town in the Baltic region, the second-largest town in the Swedish realm, and the religious, economic, military and administrative centre of Finland.

    The population was up to 3,000 people. There were German burgher leaders, Swedish-speaking burghers, and the nobility living here, along with the educated people, who were typically Swedish-speaking. Artisans consisted of Finnish or Swedish-speaking craftsmen, master builders and shippers. The Finnish-speaking servant class also incorporated craftsmen, fishermen, shepherds, builders, brick molders, carpenters, maids, comb makers, sailors, sauna attendants and the executioner.

    After the Great Fire of Turku in 1827, most of the city had to rebuilt. During the rebuilding process, the ruins of the medieval city were buried underground.

    What You See in the Museum

    In the museum you learn about medieval history and archaeology in Turku. Old Turku was divided into four districts. Aboa Vetus is in one of the quarters. This quarter is the Convent Quarter – it was where the wealthy merchants and craftsmen who built grand houses of stones and bricks.  Items found during the excavations, such as pieces of ceramics belonging to tiled stoves, splinters of expensive glass and gold rings, show signs of luxury.

     

    The museum exhibits archaeological finds that tell the story of Turku and its development. The exhibition includes the ruins of the old medieval church, cemetery, streets and city walls of Turku. One of the examples is the old cellar, which was built in the 15th century as a house extension. After the Great Fire of Turku, the building became part of a bathhouse, with the building housing the water tanks. The buildings are recreated beautifully – for example, on the ruins of the medieval church are light projections showing where the arches would’ve been.

    The displays are well-written and provide useful information about each building. Besides the ruins, there are display objects showcasing various objects they have been found. For example, there is a display with keys from the 13th century. Underneath is a description of how windows were constructed during that period. Some of the displays are written from the perspective of people who would’ve lived here. 

    Particularly fascinating is the section of goods indicating the importance of trade from other countries. For example, stoneware jugs from Rhine in Germany and glass from the present-day Czech Republic and Venice were found here. After smoking tobacco arrived in Turku in the early 17th century, townsmen smoked claypipes made in the Netherlands. In the 18th century, fine porcelain came all the way from China. However, the most important imported product was salt. Other food products included grain, dried fish, wine, spices, sugar and coffee. Products exported from Turku included hides, butter, lard, seal oil, wooden dishes and timber.

    There is also a special exhibition about the Hanseatic merchants who were coming to Turku, and a large part of Turku’s plan is thanks to them.

    There are also interactive elements such as excavations where visitors can explore the city for themselves.

    Practical Information

    Local name

    Aboa Vetus

    Getting Here

    The museum is located in the city centre of Turku, so it’s very easy to get there on foot. 

    Admission & Prices

    You can view up-to-date prices by visiting their website: https://avan.fi/en/opening-hours-and-tickets

    Opening Hours

    The museum is open all year round and is typically closed on Mondays.

    You can view up-to-date opening hours on their website:

    https://avan.fi/en/opening-hours-and-tickets

    Facilities

    There is a café and museum shop where you can buy souvenirs and gifts. The café is excellent and is open daily from 11am – 6pm and serves a great lunch buffet.

    Guided Tours

    The museum offers guided tours in several languages, and you can buy a ticket in advance online or on the spot.

    There are also QR codes on the buildings that link to more detailed information, so you can also take your own self-guided tour. 

    Enjoy your visit to the Aboa Vetus Museum!

    Let me know in the comments if you have any questions, or contact me at emma@thehiddennorth.com if you need help planning a trip to Finland!

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Turku, including practical information and things to do. 

  • Where to Stay in Kirkenes From a Trip Leaders Perspective

    Where to Stay in Kirkenes From a Tour Leaders Perspective

    If you are looking at this guide, it’s likely you are planning to visit Kirkenes in connection to boarding or disembarking the coastal ferry. That makes me happy! Everyone should spend some time in Kirkenes on either end of their coastal adventure, as this small, remote town has so much to offer. But where should you stay in Kirkenes?

    Hotel options here are rather limited, so you have to choose based on your budget or based on your interests. If you’re travelling in winter, I recommend the Snow Hotel for maximum chance of seeing the northern lights, but you will be out in nature. If you just need somewhere convenient in the city, the Scandic or Thon Hotels are good options. 

    The list is divided into parts of the city and then again into different grades of hotel. They are as follows:

    • High end: 1500+ NOK a night
    • Mid-range: 1000 – 1500 NOK a night
    • Budget: Less than 1000 NOK a night

    Here’s my top list of places to stay in Bergen, sorted by area.

    In this article...

    Be sure to check out our Kirkenes travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided walks. 

    In the City

    Why Stay Here?

    If you aren’t spending long in Kirkenes, or prefer to have easy access to shops and restaurants in the city, the city is a good choice. There are only two hotels to choose from, so be sure to read up on both before making your decision. 

    Mid Range

    The Thon & Scandic Hotel Chains

    It’s often difficult differentiating between the Scandic and Thon hotel chains, as they more or less have the same facilities. The big difference between the two in Kirkenes is that the Scandic hotel is located in the town square, while the Thon hotel is located down by the sea. Both come with free breakfast and free Wifi, but the Scandic also has a pool, spa and free parking. The Thon hotel is located closer to the Hurtigruten terminal.

    Click here to view rates for the Scandic Hotel

    Click here to view rates for the Thon Hotel

    Out in Nature

    If you head about 15 minutes out of Kirkenes, you’ll find two excellent options for enjoying the best of the nature here in the Arctic. The big difference between these two is amenities – the Kirkenes SnowHotel has far more going for it than Sollia Gjestegård, but Sollia is also a great choice if you just want to have a nice place to stay without all the extra frills. 

    High End

    SnowHotel Kirkenes

    The Kirkenes Snow Hotel is arguably the most popular place to stay in Kirkenes, and rightly so. I have stayed here a few times, and am constantly blown away by the high quality cabins, food, and experiences on offer.

    You can choose to stay in the Snow Hotel or one of the “Gamma Cabins”. These cabins are amazing!! I’ve stayed in them a few times and wish I could spend days just lounging in these incredible cabins. Meals are included at the property (a reason for the high price of booking) and you can take part in husky safaris, king crab safaris and other experiences offered by the property. 

    Click here to view rates & book

    Mid Range

    Sollia Gjestegård

    Sollia Gjestegård is a charming hotel and cabin rental that is located by the Russian border. They have a restaurant on the property, Gapahukan, which serves local specialties. The hotel is located in an old building that was used as a tuberculosis sanatorium. I spent the night here back in 2019 and enjoyed being out in nature, though you absolutely need a car. Being close to the Russian border is a bit of fun, and it’s an excellent spot to also observe the northern lights.

    Final Thoughts on Where to Stay in Kirkenes

    These are my top picks for hotels in Kirkenes. The options are limited, but easy enough to differentiate what you want. 

    Be sure to check out our Kirkenes travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided walks. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Skaidi to Hammerfest on the Rv94

    Drive it Yourself: The Rv94 from Skaidi to Hammerfest

    This short drive from Skaidi to Hammerfest will take you through an isolated region in Finnmark. Just as you feel you have driven to the end of the world, you turn a bend and there is the modern, thriving city of Hammerfest.

    In this article...

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    The drive: the Rv94 from Skaidi to Hammerfest

    Skaidi

    Town

    Skaidi is a small village and major traffic hub in Northern Norway. In the 1940s, the Skaidi Mountain Lodge and Station was built. Today it’s an important point to stop if you need a rest on the long road journeys.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station, various electric car charging stations, a cafe and a hotel.

    Repparfjorden

    Fjord

    Repparfjorden is a fjord located southeast of the island Kvaløya, where Hammerfest is. The fjord is quite shallow with an average depth of 40-60 metres and a maximum depth of 123 metres. There are strong currents at the bottom of the fjord.

    Kvalsund

    Town

    Kvalsund is a small village and former municipality in Finnmark. It was its own municipality until 2020, when it was merged with Hammerfest. The name directly translates to the whale strait, refering to the whaling that used to take place in the area. The name of the island Kvaløya means ‘whale island’.

    The village used to be known as “Finnbyen”, referring to the Coastal Sami settlement in the area. Until a few hundred years ago, the Coast Sami culture was completely dominant in Kvalsund. Norwegian and Kven immigration soon made the area multicultural, and during the ‘Norwegianisation’ process of the late 19th/early 20th century, most of the culture was lost. One of the only villages to still have the Coastal Sami culture is Kokelv.

    Kvalsund is one of the areas in Finnmark county with the most cabins that are especially used by people from Hammerfest. There is good salmon fishing in the fjord and there are nice hiking trails in the area.

    Kvalsund Bridge

    Bridge

    The Kvalsund Bridge is a suspension bridge over the Kvalsundet strait, linking the mainland to the island of Kvaløya. The bridge is 741 metres (2,431 ft) long and has 11 spans. It is the northernmost suspension bridge in the world.

    Akkarfjord

    Village

    Akkarfjord is a small fishing village with a population of around 80. There is a ferry service to Hammerfest as well as school. The main industry in the village is fish farming. Sheep farming and fishing tourism are smaller industries.

    Hammerfest

    Hammerfest is the northernmost city in the world with a population over 10,000 people. The town has an ice-free harbour and is regarded as one of the oldest cities in Northern Norway (along with Vardø). People have been living and trading here for hundreds of years. Hammerfest rose to prominence in the 18th and 19th centuries due to its proximity to the Arctic hunting areas.

    In town you’ll find the Reconstruction Museum, which documents what happened to Hammerfest during World War II, as well as the subsequent reconstruction of the region. The address for the museum is Kirkegata 19, 9600 Hammerfest.

    There’s also the Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society, which is neither royal nor ancient (nor are there polar bears in Hammerfest) but it’s a fun little club to commemorate the history of Arctic hunting and trade. Become a member!

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Hemsedalsfjellet Mountains (Rv52)

    Drive it Yourself: The Rv52 on Hemsedalsfjellet

    The Rv52 goes between Borlaug (the E16) and Gol. It is a relatively short national highway at only 79km long. Historically this was the shortest connection between East and West Norway over the Hemsedalsfjellet mountains. There has been a road here for hundreds of years, but a modern car road was completed shortly after Gol became a traffic hub in 1909 thanks to the construction of the Bergen Railway. The road opened in the 1940s and was kept open with snow ploughs. From the 1950s, the road was open all through the winter.

    In this article...

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    The drive: the Rv52 on the Hemsedalsfjellet Mountains

    Gol

    Gol is the administrative centre of the municipality. It is also an important transport hub. In Gol you’ll find the Hallingdal Museum, which is part of the Hallingdal Folk High School. As you drive through Gol, you’ll see the replica of the stave church on your right side (if coming from Hønefoss). It’s part of a kids park called Gordarike.

    Hemsedal Municipality

    Hemsedal municipality is a mountainous municipality with a rich cultural heritage. Charcoal dating back to 200AD has been found here, and there was probably a large tribe of reindeer here in old times. This indicates that hunter-gatherers were the first peoples to come to the area. It is possible to spot wild reindeer in the mountains. A stave church has been in Hemsedal since the 13th century, though it was demolished in 1882 to be replaced with the current church. One photograph exists of the old stave church.

    The tallest peak in Hemsedal is Høgeloft (1921m above sea level), and Hemsedal is home to the highest inhabited hamlet in Europe called Lykkja, which is 930m above sea level.

    Hemsedal has a reputation around Norway for being a ski centre. The first hotel was built here in 1900 after there had been a lot of optimism following the upgrade of the historic postal road just a couple decades earlier. Many people started to construct cabins in the area, and in the 1950s the idea of being a ski lift came. Today Hemsedal is one of the most popular ski resorts in the country and has been nicknamed ‘Scandinavia’s Alps’ because of the good ski conditions.

    Hemsedal

    Town

    Hemsedal town, also known as Trøym, is a small town with a population of 944. Hemsedal Church is a small church from 1882. It has space for 420 people.

    Hemsedal Ski Centre

    Ski Centre

    Hemsedal Ski Centre is one of the largest in Norway, with 20 ski lifts and 53 runs of varying difficulty. The ski centre also has facilities for snowboarding and various accommodation types. The Hemsedal Ski Centre has been used for several World Cup races.

    As you drive through Hemsedal, you will see the Ski Centre on the southbound side of the road (it’s easier to see it if you are travelling north)

    Rjukeandfossen

    Waterfall

    Rjukande Waterfall is located north of Hemsedal on the southbound side of the road. There is a parking place and you can walk to the waterfall – the walk takes only 10-15 minutes. Rjukeandfossen is a double waterfall with a height of approximately 18 metres. A suspension bridge is located about 50-100 metres after the waterfall and can be used to cross the river.

    Lærdal Municipality

    Lærdal is a municipality in western Norway. It has a relatively dry climate, with around 600mm of rain a year. Agriculture is one of the biggest industries here. The lower part of the valley has one of the country’s best climactic conditions for growing vegetables.
    The river running through Lærdal is called the Lærdal River and is known as the ‘Queen of the Salmon rivers’ because it is one of Norway’s most famous salmon rivers. In the valley, you can hunt deer, reindeer, and elk.

    Breistølen Fjellstue

    Hotel

    Breistølen Fjellstue opened in 1843 and was formally established as a public transport station in 1891. It is located on the Norwegian Trekking Associations classic trip from Jotunheimen through Skarvheimen to Finse.

    You can view their website here. 

    Borlaug

    Town

    The Rv52 ends at Borlaug. There is a small collection of wooden houses by the road that makes up an open-air museum. From here, you can take the E16 towards Bergen (via Borgund and Flåm) or towards Oslo (via Fagernes).

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!