Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Copenhagen, Day-Trips

    Why Dragør is the Perfect Day-trip from Copenhagen

    How to Have the Perfect Dragør day-trip from Copenhagen

    If you’re looking to get out of Copenhagen for the day, one of my favourite places to visit is Dragør. A day-trip to Dragør from Copenhagen offers a charming escape to one of Denmark’s best-preserved fishing villages, and it’s only a short bus ride away from Copehagen’s busy city centre. Known for its cobblestone streets, 18th-century fisherman cottages, and views over the Øresund Strait towards Sweden, Dragør offers visitors a taste of traditional Danish life.

    Dragør Day-trip Guide

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide

    You can learn more about Copenhagen on my dedicated travel guide page. 

    Historic Overview of Dragør

    Dragør was founded in the 1100s as a fishing village and it was used as a fishing port for centuries. In the Middle Ages, Dragør was an international marketplace for the Hanseatic merchants who came here from August to October to take part in the herring trade.

    Dragør is particularly known for its Dutch influence because the Danish king Christian II invited Dutch farmers to live here to supply food for the royal family in the 16th century. The Dutch were more agriculturally advanced than the Danish, and they actually introduced carrots to Denmark. King Christian II also wanted to reform Danish society according to Dutch ideals, and he awarded the Dutch settlers with higher status than other peasants on the islands of Amager.

    The Dutch settled in the nearby village of Store Magleby, which the bus goes through on its way in/out of Dragør. The village has a distinct Dutch look because of this history. You can learn more about the Dutch history of the region by visiting the Amager Museum, which is located in an old Dutch farm from the 16th century. Here you learn more about the Dutch who settled in this part of Denmark and what life was like at the time.

    Dutch and Low German were spoken in this region until the 19th century. The Dutch immigrants were talented and hardworking. They were particularly known for catching, salting and selling eel to the Netherlands and England. Dragør was a convenient harbour for them, and it’s assumed that the Dutch built the harbour here. For a long time, Dragør was the largest harbour out of Copenhagen.

    Today the population is 12,000. The name Dragør is made up of two words: “Drag” means “dragging boats ashore”, which “ør” is a common Scandinavian word for a beach covered in sand or gravel.

    Walking Around

    The Picturesque Streets

    Dragør is a great place to explore on foot. You’ll notice (in the old town) that the houses are built in rows going east-west and the gardens are all facing south. The streets are all bisected with alleys going north-south. Most houses were built by the master builder J.H. Blichmann. His houses were built during the economically successful era of Dragør’s shipping during the second half of the 18th century. The houses have a black tarred base, with yellow-rendered walls and red-tiled roofs. Some older houses have thatched roofs. The houses blend Danish and Dutch influence.

    Many of the street names resemble the Hanseatic and Dutch influence on the town. For example, you’ll find Lubeck Alley, Szczecin Alley, Kampensgade and Hollandsfed.

    One of the most picturesque places in Dragør is Jens Eyberts Square. It is named after a skipper who lived in number 6 on the square from 1756 to 1811 and his living room has been perfectly preserved and transferred to Dragør Museum. There is a well in the centre of the square, and this was the towns only source of drinking water until the 1800s.

    Museums

    While in Dragør, you can also visit the local history museum to learn more about the unique history and traditions of this fishing town. At the visitors centre you can pick up some maps. Dragør Museum is by the harbour in one of the oldest houses in town from 1753. Close by you’ll find Mølsted Atelier, which is probably Denmark’s smallest art gallery. On display are the works of maritime painter Christian Mølsted, who was active throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries. You can also visit the Pilot Museum (Lodsmuseum), which is located in an old tower and showcases the everyday life of a pilot as well as how to pilot a ship. Next to the museum is a 15 metre high pilot tower that was built in 1912.

    By the Harbour

    After exploring the narrow streets of the old town, head down to the harbour. This is where you’ll find many restaurants. This is also one of the oldest ports in Denmark and has been strategically important for centuries. From the herring trade in the Middle Ages to naval activity and escape in World War II, the port is fascinating.

    One of the ships docked in the harbour was involved in evacuating Jews out of Denmark into safe and neutral Sweden. The ship is called the Elisabeth K571 and it is one of the few known remaining ships in Denmark that participated in the transport of refugees from occupied Denmark to neutral Sweden in October 1943.

    Lunch Spots

    Bakeries

    Dragør is home to a good selection of bakeries, so you will not be going hungry on your visit! I particularly like Cafe Hallöy and Lagkagehuset, both of which have a good selection of pastries, sandwiches, and excellent coffee! In summer Vaffelbageren Nyhavn (Dragør) is open, which has ice cream and waffles.

    Restaurants

    When in Dragør, one of the best places to go is the local seafood place – Dragør Røgeri. This seafood shop is located by the harbour and this is where you’ll find the locals buying various types of seafood. They also cook the seafood on request, and here I recommend getting the fish and chips. You can also find Dragør Strandhotel by the harbour. This hotel has a restaurant inside with excellent seafood options.

    Exploring Beyond the Town

    Walking Trails

    If you’re looking to go for a nice walk, you can head to Dragør fortress just outside the town centre. The fortress was built in 1910 but is now privately owned and has been turned into a hotel, so it’s also a place where you can stay. From the top of the fort you get excellent views out to the water.

    To get here, there’s a trail that goes along the waterfront. If you have a clear day, you’ll be able to see the Øresund Bridge that connects Denmark to Sweden.

    After Dragør Fort you’ll pass the Goose Republic. This inland area is where the geese of Dragør live. What am I talking about? Well, I explain that in the next section.

    Further out is the Amarminoen Walk, which will take you out to the nature park on Amager (the island Dragør is on). The walk takes between five and seven hours, so be prepared for a full day trip.

    Goose Republic

    As you walk around Dragør, you’ll see geese everywhere. Not real ones, but rather little statues or paintings in peoples homes, shops and cafes. But in older times you would’ve seen real geese roaming the streets.

    For centuries the locals kept geese almost as pets. The geese would often live in the house under kitchen tables or beds. During the day, they would freely roam the streets.

    Today geese aren’t allowed to live in peoples homes, so they’ve moved out to this flat section and it has earned the nickname ‘Goose Republic’ from the locals. The geese are still important to the town and have their own little village. You can go and take a look and it’s worth it, especially in spring and summer when the goslings have hatched.

    Swimming

    If you want to try something a little more unique, it’s possible to go for a swim at the Dragør Sjøbad. There are separate male and female sections for nude bathing as well as mixed platforms where families and couples can swim (with bathers on, of course). The pool is open all year round.

    Otherwise, close by Dragør Sjøbad is a swimming beach called Mormorstranden (literally ‘Grandma’s Beach’ when translated). This is a popular spot with the locals in the summer time.

    Getting Here

    Dragør is located right next to the airport and it takes about 45 minutes to get here from Copenhagen City Centre. There are two ways to get here:

    Bus 250S goes from outside Copenhagen Central Station (stop name: Hovedbanegården Tivoli Bernstorftsgade) direct to Dragør. The trip takes approx. 40 minutes. Alternatively, you can take the train to Tårnby Station and take bus 250S from there.

    It’s recommended to have the Copenhagen Card because that makes all public transportation free.

    You can take the metro to Copenhagen Airport, and then from there you can take bus 35 to Dragør.

    It is also possible to get to Dragør by bike. You can rent a bike easily in Copenhagen with apps like Donkey Republic, Tier or Bolt. It will take up to an hour to cycle to Dragør, depending on which part of the city you’re cycling from. The best bike route to take is Bicycle Route 80 – this route goes around the island of Amager and starts in Copenhagen.

    Click here to learn more about Bicycle Route 80. 

    Final Thoughts on Dragør Day-Trip

    Hopefully I’ve managed to convince you that Dragør is a lovely spot to spend the day! Despite being so close to Copenhagen, it feels so remote and peaceful. The village is incredibly charming, and there are lovely walking trails for you to do as well.

    Enjoy your visit to Dragør!

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out my travel guide for Copenhagen by clicking the button above. 

  • History, Sweden, Uppsala

    The History of Uppsala – Sweden’s Historic Centre

    The History of Uppsala

    Uppsala, one of Sweden’s oldest and most culturally significant cities, holds a unique place in Scandinavian history. Located about 70km north of Stockholm, Uppsala has been a center for religious, political, and academic life in Sweden for over a thousand years. Known originally as a Viking-era settlement and religious center, it became the heart of Norse pagan worship, with Old Uppsala housing temples dedicated to gods like Thor, Odin, and Frey.

    With the rise of Christianity in the 12th century, Uppsala transformed into an important Christian hub, becoming the seat of the Archbishop and establishing itself as a symbol of Sweden’s emerging national identity. In the 15th century, Uppsala University was founded, making it Scandinavia’s oldest university and solidifying the city’s role as an intellectual and cultural centre. Today, Uppsala blends its rich past with a vibrant modern identity, known for its historical landmarks like the Uppsala Cathedral and its ongoing contributions to education and science. The city remains a fascinating destination to explore the layered history of Sweden, from its Viking roots to its academic and religious heritage.

    I remember on my first-ever trip to Sweden with my then-boyfriend (now husband), I wanted to take a day-trip to Uppsala from Stockholm because of the burial mounds there – I was interested in Norse mythology at the time. 

    If you’re in Stockholm I highly recommend including a day-trip to Uppsala on your journey. It’s very easy to do by train. And before you go, familiarise yourself with the history of Uppsala. Here’s my guide to the history of Uppsala, from the perspective of travelling to the region.

    The History of Uppsala

    Uppsala Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Uppsala, including practical information and things to do. 

    Early History of Uppsala

    The first peoples came to Uppsala around 5,000BC, when the land rose following the melting of the ice from the last ice age. Originally, Uppsala was a bay, but now the area is inland. While the area around Uppsala was mentioned in the mythological Ynglinga Saga, the first historic mention of Uppsala is in the year 98.

    The Early Importance of Uppsala

    During the Iron Age, sometimes called the ‘Vendel Period’ in Swedish history, considerable wealth was built up around Gamla Uppsala from mining and trade. The settlement wasn’t where Uppsala is today, rather it was located where the region “Gamla Uppsala” is today – approximately 5km (3 miles) north of the current Uppsala.

    Gamla Uppsala was a central point for the prehistoric power structure that would later develop into Sweden as a country.

    The site was a former bay, but during the Viking Age as the land was rising, the bay somewhat disappeared. 

    The Royal Mounds

    It was during this period that the Royal Mounds were erected. The mounds are three large barrows located in the area today called Gamla Uppsala (Old Uppsala). According to folklore, the three gods Thor, Odin and Freyr would be at rest at the barrows. Originally there was also a temple here, but it’s believed that it was destroyed at the time when Christianity came to Sweden. The mounds are Sweden’s oldest national symbols. One of the mounds was excavated in the late 19th century and in the mound were remains of a man and animals, probably for food for the journey. Remains of a warriors equipment were also found.

    Medieval Scandinavians considered Gamla Uppsala to be one of the most important locations in Scandinavia. The Danish chronicler Saxo Grammaticus believed Odin resided in Gamla Uppsala. The Icelandic historian Snorri Sturlason had Odin reside at nearby Fornsigtuna, whereas the god Freyr lived at Gamla Uppsala. Saxo Grammaticus adds that Freyr began he human sacrifices at Gamla Uppsala. Sacrifices in Gamla Uppsala were also described by Adam of Bremen at the Uppsala temple. 

    It’s not quite known where the permanent settlement was. It’s believed that from the end of the Viking Age, the site was probably closest to the port. Only during the 12th century is evidence of a city properly traceable. In written documents, Uppsala is mentioned for the first time in Sweden’s oldest manuscript from 1164, 

    The Temple of Uppsala

    The Temple of Uppsala is generally regarded to have been the religious centre of Scandinavia in pre-Christian times. There are somewhat conflicting reports about the temple and its use, for example some historians believe it was used by Christians (some of the documented sacrifices there resemble Christian practices), while others believe it to be pagan. 

    The Temple was eventually destroyed, though it’s not known when. There are different opinions on where the Temple was, though many believe it was close to where Gamla Uppsala Church was built. 

    Gamla Uppsala Archaeological Site

    Today the area generally regarded to be the religious centre of Scandinavia is called the Gamla Uppsala archaeological site. This is where you’ll find the burial mounds as well as large areas of archaeological importnace – for example, up to 3,000 graves are believed to be here. 

    This was an important place during the period of Norse mythology but was also where a major general assembly called “The Thing of All Swedes” took place from prehistoric times until the end of the Viking Age. This is also where the Temple was believed to be. 

    If you are interested in learning more about the discoveries made here, you can visit the Gamla Uppsala Museum (click here for museum website). 

    Christianisation of Uppsala

    It’s believed that Uppsala was the last pre-Christian, Norse Germanic stronghold in Scandinavia. The country’s final Christianisation process took place here.

    At the end of the Viking Age, the Temple of Uppsala was replaced by a Christian Church – probably the Gamle Uppsala Church. 

    In 1164, Gamle Uppsala Church became the seat of the archbishop. A lot of power was moved to Uppsala during the Middle Ages, and the city continued to develop as an important place for Scandinavia. 

    Moving Uppsala South & Uppsala Cathedral

    When the Gamla Uppsala Church was damaged by a fire in 1204, the Chapter sought permission from the Holy See to move the church to a larger site. Pope Alexander IV granted this request in 1258, on the condition that the name Uppsala be maintained.

    So, the city was moved south. The original settlement was renamed “Gamla Uppsala” (Old Uppsala), while the new town was called Uppsala. The move officially took place in 1273, the same year that Uppsala Cathedral began. 

    Uppsala Cathedral

    Uppsala Cathedral dates to the late 13th century and, at a height of 118 metres, is the tallest cathedral in the Nordic countries. The cathedral was originally built under Roman Catholicism and was used as a coronation church for a long time. Much of the cathedral was redesigned after the fire of 1702 and after a renovation in the 1880s. 

    It is possible to visit Uppsala Cathedral. 

    Uppsala was fortified in the 14th century when the Archbishops Castle was built. The Castle is mentioned in the battles of 1497 and 1521 (mentioned below), and at the end of the War of Liberation, King Gustav restored the castle and held a coronation party there. 

    The castle caught fire in 1543 and was not restored. When the University House was built in 1879, the ruins of the castle were uncovered but no archaeological survey was carried out. 

    Uppsala University

    On the 27th of February 1477, Uppsala University was founded through a bull by Pope Sixtus IV. It became the first university int he Nordic region and the northernmost university in the world at the time.

    Education was divided into four faculties: The Faculty of Philosophy, Medicine, Law and Theology. Teaching revolved around scholastic philosophy inspired by the ancient philosopher Aristotle. 

    Uppsala University

    You can view the University’s historic collections at the Gustavianum building. 

    (click here for website)

    The Vasa Period & the Reformation (16th Century)

    While Gustav Vasa’s reign was generally regard as good for the development of Stockholm (read my separate overview of the history of Stockholm here), it was not good for Uppsala.

    With the Reformation, the university’s activities came to be severely limited. The university was Catholic, and that was not something that was appreciated by Gustav Vasa and all the new Lutherans. After the Reformation, teaching practically died out after the mid-16th century. The Reformation also meant that both power and capital were moved from the church in Uppsala to the king in Stockholm.

    In 1543, a large city fire in Uppsala destroyed St. Peter’s Church, the Franciscan Convent, and the Archbishop’s Castle, with none of them being rebuilt later.

    In 1539, the King had Uppsala Castle built in the city. The castle was later remodelled after a fire in 1572 and was expanded into a Renaissance palace. One of its most important tasks was to host the coronation festivities after the ceremony in the cathedral.

    Sweden's Century of Power (17th Century)

    In Sweden, the 17th century was a period of power and domination in Europe. For Uppsala, the city became the kingdom’s secondary capital as it was the seat of the archbishop, the Swedish Academy, and the University.

    The Lutheran King Gustav II Adolf re-established the Uppsala University as he wanted to develop Sweden into an intellectual country.

    He added subjects like political science and history. In 1622, a new university building called the Gustavianum was built (this is where the University museum is today).

    In 1624, Gustav II Adolf donated the Gustavian heritage – over 400 farms and crofts – to the university. Their value today is estimated at over 2 billion SEK.

    In 1643, the medieval city was largely demolished and rebuilt based off plans by Anders Torstensson, who designed the city in a wide grid pattern. The city’s main meeting place was moved from The Old Square to Stora Torget. The city was built within an area of 800mx1200m and was not expanded until the 19th century. The area around the cathedral escaped the city plan and demolition, so it is still characterised by an irregular street pattern.

    The Celsius House is one of the few medieval houses in the eastern city that survived demolition and doesn’t stand parallel to other houses along the pedestrian street.

    The City Fire of 1702

    One of the most important events in Uppsala’s history is the city fire on 16 May 1702. The fire started near the current Old Square. Most of Uppsala was on the west side of the river, but it had been dry for a long time and the fire was able to spread quickly in a strong wind over the wooden bridges.

    Among the damaged buildings were Uppsala Cathedral, which was almost completely burned and could not be used again until 1707. Uppsala Castle was also severely damaged and never completely rebuilt – the castle looks the same today as it did after reconstruction. Another damaged building was one of the university’s main buildings, the Academia Carolina, which was so badly damaged that it was not rebuilt.

    With the city fire, Uppsala lost its position as the kingdom’s second city and coronation city, as Ulrika Eleonora became the last Swedish monarch to be crowned here in 1719.

    The Enlightenment (18th Century)

    As an academic city, Uppsala was strongly influenced by the ideas of the Enlightenment. During the 18th century, reason and science were celebrated and during the 1720s Uppsala and the university began to flourish.

    New institutions for subjects such as chemistry, physics and economics were established.

    During this period, many of the most prominent figures of the Swedish enlightenment began to live and work in the city. Carl von Linne began mapping and systemising the plant world. Anders Celsius created Sweden’s first proper observatory in 1741, where astronomical and meteorological observations were regularly carried out.

    Romanticism & Industrialisation (19th Century)

    During the Romantic period, strong Scandinavian currents arose at universities around the Nordics. The first Scandinavian student meeting was held in 1843 in Uppsala and students from the universities in Copenhagen, Kristiania (Oslo) and Lund came to the city. In order to recognise each other at student meetings, it was decided that students should wear identical caps, which became the model for today’s student caps.

    In 1870, women gained access to the university and in 1872 Betty Pettersson became the first female student to be enrolled at a Swedish university.

    Population growth took off in the middle of the 19th century thanks to industrialisation.

    Wars & Postwar Period (20th Century)

    As Sweden was neutral during both World Wars, the city was left in tact and not directly impacted.

    Uppsala’s post-war history is characterised by expansion. Extensive parts of central Uppsala were demolished and rebuilt in a more functionalist style of architecture. Neoclassical houses from the late 19th century were largely demolished, while older houses were preserved.

    Uppsala also had strong population growth, with the municipality growing from 75,000 in 1940 to 156,000 in 1990.

    Modern Times (21st Century)

    As Sweden was neutral during both World Wars, the city was left in tact and not directly impacted.

    Uppsala’s post-war history is characterised by expansion. Extensive parts of central Uppsala were demolished and rebuilt in a more functionalist style of architecture. Neoclassical houses from the late 19th century were largely demolished, while older houses were preserved.

    Uppsala also had strong population growth, with the municipality growing from 75,000 in 1940 to 156,000 in 1990.

    Uppsala Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Uppsala, including practical information and things to do. 

  • Northern Lights

    How to Observe the Northern Lights: A Tour Leaders Perspective

    How to Observe the Northern Lights: A Tour Leaders Experience

    Ever since I moved to Norway seven years ago, I’ve been obsessed with observing the northern lights. Luckily, when I started working as a tour leader I could live out my obsession and take people to see the northern lights all season long.

    When researching the lights online, there are so many travel companies writing ‘how to see the northern lights’ guides, and I felt as though the information wasn’t written by someone who had actually spent time observing the lights.

    So, here is my guide to observing the northern lights based on my own reading and experience standing outside during those long, cold nights.

    In this article...

    What are the northern lights?

    The northern lights, explained

    I don’t want to get into this too much; there are much smarter people out there who can explain it better than I can.

    In summary, the northern lights are created from a collision between electrically charged particles from the sun that enter the atmosphere of the earth.

    When these particles hit the earth’s magnetic shield, they are pushed around the oval that circles the North Pole (because magnets). They then interact with the upper parts of the earths atmosphere, such as oxygen, and the energy that is released from this collision makes the northern lights.

    Here’s a YouTube video from VisitNorway that explains it:

    And here is a video from TED:

    The colours of the northern lights

    The colour of the northern lights depends on the type of atom involved in the collision. Red northern lights occur at altitudes of 150 miles and above. Green occurs at altitudes of 100 miles and above and is the most common colour you’ll see. Purple and blue occur at altitudes of up to 60 miles. Purple is the second-most common colour you’ll see.

    Where should I observe the northern lights?

    I’ve seen the northern lights all over Norway and Finland, so here are my recommendations. I’ve had the best luck in Finland – Ivalo and Inari, to be exact. Finland is colder than Norway in winter, which means you have more chances of having a clear night sky. Finland is also inland, meaning there’s less risk of bad weather. The coast of Norway is exposed to bad weather, and this means it will be cloudier. Finland is also nice and flat, making it easy to see the horizon.

    Many take Hurtigruten to see the northern lights, and I have seen them on Hurtigruten several times. However, I find it harder to photograph the lights on Hurtigruten because the ship is always moving, and this doesn’t work well for a long exposure.

    I feel the Lofoten Islands is overrated for observing the northern lights. It’s very mountainous, very prone to bad weather, and located pretty far south. Of course, many have observed wonderful northern lights there. If you want to better your chances, I recommend going further north.

    When should I visit for the northern lights?

    The northern lights are visible as long as it is dark, however the weather is not kind to us every month.

    September & October are great if you want to observe the northern lights and not be standing in the snow. There can be some bad storms at the end of September, but for the most part the weather is okay. It’s also not so cold, so you won’t freeze waiting outside! Don’t come in early September; the window for observing the northern lights is small due to it not being dark enough yet.

    November, December, and January can be very overcast. Yes, they are the darkest months of the year, but they are also the month’s most prone to bad weather. Also, it’s dark during the day so it limits your day activities.  

    February and March are wonderful. The snow is at its deepest and you get normal daylight cycles. This means you can spend the day doing an activity like a husky or reindeer sled or snowshoeing, and then at night you can go out and see the lights. The only downside is that it’s the coldest time of year, so you’ll be quite cold at night.

    How long should I spend up north?

    I recommend spending 5-7 days up north minimum. 1-3 nights is simply not enough to try and see the northern lights.

    Glass igloos - are they worth it?

    At the moment, there are these glass igloos popping up all over northern Europe. They are basically cabins with glass rooves so you can lie in bed and observe the northern lights.

    They are typically so expensive, so are they worth it?

    To an extent, yes. There’s something romantic about cuddling up in bed and watching the northern lights. But if I’m thinking realistically, if the northern lights are good enough to be observed from my cabin, I want to be outside photographing them! So don’t feel like you must book a glass cabin to see the lights. I instead recommend a hotel or place of accommodation that will alert you if the lights are out.

    Understanding the apps

    It’s important to pay attention to the northern lights forecasts. The northern lights aren’t guaranteed every night. Their strength fluctuates and you can have a clear night sky and still not see anything.

    Key factors:

    • KP index. This indicates how strong the lights are. It doesn’t always matter; I’ve seen the northern lights at North Cape at KP0. However, the rule of thumb is that the higher the KP index, the more chance you have of seeing the northern lights. It also signifies how far south you can be to see them; to see them in Bergen, we need at least KP4. To see them in Tromsø, you only need KP1.
    • Speed. This indicates how fast the particles are moving. The faster the speed, the more chance you have of seeing the dancing effect.
    • BZ & BT. These numbers should ideally be in the negatives, but it doesn’t always matter
    • Density. This is important for knowing how the lights will appear. The denser the particles, the higher chance of seeing visible strands of lights. If they aren’t dense, the lights may just look like fog.

    This is the app I recommend (click here). 

    What time of night do I see the northern lights?

    The northern lights are visible throughout the night. However, there is a ‘thicker’ part to the ring around the pole, and the thicker part is over Scandinavia between 8pm and midnight. Of course, if the lights are very strong the thicker part is even thicker and you can see the northern lights better throughout the night.

    Should I book a guided tour?

    Yes.

    My number one bit of northern lights advice is to book a guided tour. Northern lights guides are professionals and have connections all over the region. They will drive you out to wherever the northern lights have been sighted by their contacts, so this increases your chances even more.

    Tromsø is the best place in Norway to book a guided tour. Yes, Tromsø is coastal, but they will most likely drive you inland to observe the lights; often as far as Finland or Sweden.

    Lapland is full of northern lights tours, so you are spoiled for choice there.

    Sure, you may want to rent a car instead. But do you really want to be driving icy roads in the middle of the night in a place you don’t know while trying to figure out where to see the lights? No, of course not.

    Guided tours are expensive, I know. But it’s worth it. You’re paying for peace of mind, experience, and safety.

    There are advantages and disadvantages to booking a northern lights tour that has an additional activity, for example snowmobiling. The advantages are that even if you don’t see the northern lights, at least you’ve had a fun night out. Northern lights bus tours can be boring if there are no northern lights. The disadvantages are that the additional activities follow a set route and timetable, so they may miss the lights. By contrast, the bus tours are more flexible to go out looking for the lights.

    How to observe the northern lights

    To observe the northern lights, you need to have a dark night sky. It needs to be dark enough so you can see the stars in the sky. Ideally, you want to be as far away from light as possible. This means getting out of the city and finding somewhere pitch black. Generally, it’s dark enough to observe the northern lights between September and March.

    For this reason, it’s recommended to go with a northern lights guide who will drive you out to somewhere suitable to view them.

    Additionally, you need to have a clear night sky. The northern lights can be observed if it’s partly cloudy, but ideally you want 100% visibility in the sky as the northern lights can appear anywhere. The northern lights occur about 100km (60 mi) above the earth, so you need to be able to see stars.

    Northern lights captured in Ivalo – February 2020

    How to photograph the northern lights

    These days mobile phones are getting better and better and you can often capture the northern lights on your phone if it is two years old or less. However, the phones will never match a professional camera when it comes to quality.

    If you plan on using a DSLR, make sure you have a tripod. The northern lights need long exposures (5-30 seconds) and you can’t hold a camera for that long without it going blurry. Keep the camera still.

    Use manual settings if you have them.

    The manual settings you want to use are:

    • Focus. Use a manual focus and focus on the stars in the sky
    • Shutter speed. Try and have an exposure of at least 5 seconds. Exposure time depends on how strong the lights are, how dense they are, and how quickly they are moving
    • ISO
    • Aperture. You want a f-stop as low as possible

    I normally set it all up on my camera and connect it to the tripod before I head out for the night. It’s harder to get it already in the pitch black or if the lights are already out.

    Wide angle lenses are recommended for using northern lights.

    Try to find a nice view if possible. If your picture just has the northern lights in it, it can be a little dull. Take a nicely framed photo!

    Bring extra batteries, the cold drains your camera quickly.

    Also, when you bring your camera inside before to slowly acclimatise it to your hotel room. If the camera goes from too cold to too hot too quickly, the glass may crack.  

    Emma's northern lights diary

    You can see all my northern lights sightings using the link below. 

    Emma's Northern lights diary
  • Museums, Turku

    The Aboa Vetus Museum – Finland’s Only Archaeological Museum

    The Aboa Vetus Museum - Finland's Only Archaeological Museum

    I love a good ruins museum. I go to practically every one I can – including the Christiansborg ruins in Copenhagen and the Medieval Museum in Stockholm. When I ventured out to Turku for the day, visiting the Aboa Vetus Museum was on my to do list.

    The museum itself isn’t so large, but it does provide a fascinating insight into what life was like in Finland in old times. This is especially interesting as there aren’t that many historic sites like this in Finland; the country was agricultural and largely a peasant society for hundreds of years. So, to see ruins like this in Turku is a real treat.

    What makes this museum even more interesting is that it is the only medieval & archaeological museum in Finland. 

    Here’s my guide to the museum and what you can see here.

    Aboa Vetus Museum in Turku

    Turku Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Turku, including practical information and things to do. 

    About the Aboa Vetus Museum

    The museum opened in 1995 as two independent museums. Originally the plan was to only build Ars Nova, the contemporary art museum. However, during the construction several artefacts and structures dating back to the Middle Ages were discovered. This led to a major archaeological excavation that was commissioned and eventually transformed into the museum Aboa Vetus.

    In 2004, the two museums were combined. Today they are among the most popular tourist venues in the entire region of Southwest Finland.

    Aboa Vetus is the only archaeological museum in Finland and is known for its archaeological activities. After the initial excavations in the 1990s, the museum has continued archaeological research since 2005. Public engagement and community archaeology have a pivotal role in the museum. Research is done by both archaeologists and engaged volunteers.

    The name "Aboa Vetus"

    The names of the museum can seem a little strange, and I promise it’s not the Finnish name for the centre. Rather, the names come from the Latin words “Aboa Vetus”, meaning the “Old City of Turku”, and “Ars Nova”, referring to modern art.

     

    About the Building

    The building was built in 1928 and was a palace for a prominent family constructed by a tobacco manufacturer called Hans von Rettig. The palace now houses the museum.

    Entering the building itself is impressive – you see the ruins as soon as you go in!

    How These Buildings Became Ruins

    It’s worth mentioning that Turku used to be the second largest in the realm of Sweden and the largest city in Finland. Turku emerged as a centre of trade, religion and administration.

    The medieval city of Turku was largely built by the German traders who came here, and it was governed by both the Germans and the Crown and its officers. At its peak, Turku was a medium-sized town in the Baltic region, the second-largest town in the Swedish realm, and the religious, economic, military and administrative centre of Finland.

    The population was up to 3,000 people. There were German burgher leaders, Swedish-speaking burghers, and the nobility living here, along with the educated people, who were typically Swedish-speaking. Artisans consisted of Finnish or Swedish-speaking craftsmen, master builders and shippers. The Finnish-speaking servant class also incorporated craftsmen, fishermen, shepherds, builders, brick molders, carpenters, maids, comb makers, sailors, sauna attendants and the executioner.

    After the Great Fire of Turku in 1827, most of the city had to rebuilt. During the rebuilding process, the ruins of the medieval city were buried underground.

    What You See in the Museum

    In the museum you learn about medieval history and archaeology in Turku. Old Turku was divided into four districts. Aboa Vetus is in one of the quarters. This quarter is the Convent Quarter – it was where the wealthy merchants and craftsmen who built grand houses of stones and bricks.  Items found during the excavations, such as pieces of ceramics belonging to tiled stoves, splinters of expensive glass and gold rings, show signs of luxury.

     

    The museum exhibits archaeological finds that tell the story of Turku and its development. The exhibition includes the ruins of the old medieval church, cemetery, streets and city walls of Turku. One of the examples is the old cellar, which was built in the 15th century as a house extension. After the Great Fire of Turku, the building became part of a bathhouse, with the building housing the water tanks. The buildings are recreated beautifully – for example, on the ruins of the medieval church are light projections showing where the arches would’ve been.

    The displays are well-written and provide useful information about each building. Besides the ruins, there are display objects showcasing various objects they have been found. For example, there is a display with keys from the 13th century. Underneath is a description of how windows were constructed during that period. Some of the displays are written from the perspective of people who would’ve lived here. 

    Particularly fascinating is the section of goods indicating the importance of trade from other countries. For example, stoneware jugs from Rhine in Germany and glass from the present-day Czech Republic and Venice were found here. After smoking tobacco arrived in Turku in the early 17th century, townsmen smoked claypipes made in the Netherlands. In the 18th century, fine porcelain came all the way from China. However, the most important imported product was salt. Other food products included grain, dried fish, wine, spices, sugar and coffee. Products exported from Turku included hides, butter, lard, seal oil, wooden dishes and timber.

    There is also a special exhibition about the Hanseatic merchants who were coming to Turku, and a large part of Turku’s plan is thanks to them.

    There are also interactive elements such as excavations where visitors can explore the city for themselves.

    Practical Information

    Local name

    Aboa Vetus

    Getting Here

    The museum is located in the city centre of Turku, so it’s very easy to get there on foot. 

    Admission & Prices

    You can view up-to-date prices by visiting their website: https://avan.fi/en/opening-hours-and-tickets

    Opening Hours

    The museum is open all year round and is typically closed on Mondays.

    You can view up-to-date opening hours on their website:

    https://avan.fi/en/opening-hours-and-tickets

    Facilities

    There is a café and museum shop where you can buy souvenirs and gifts. The café is excellent and is open daily from 11am – 6pm and serves a great lunch buffet.

    Guided Tours

    The museum offers guided tours in several languages, and you can buy a ticket in advance online or on the spot.

    There are also QR codes on the buildings that link to more detailed information, so you can also take your own self-guided tour. 

    Enjoy your visit to the Aboa Vetus Museum!

    Let me know in the comments if you have any questions, or contact me at emma@thehiddennorth.com if you need help planning a trip to Finland!

    Turku Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Turku, including practical information and things to do. 

  • Kirkenes, Where to Stay

    Where to Stay in Kirkenes From a Trip Leaders Perspective

    Where to Stay in Kirkenes From a Tour Leaders Perspective

    If you are looking at this guide, it’s likely you are planning to visit Kirkenes in connection to boarding or disembarking the coastal ferry. That makes me happy! Everyone should spend some time in Kirkenes on either end of their coastal adventure, as this small, remote town has so much to offer. But where should you stay in Kirkenes?

    Hotel options here are rather limited, so you have to choose based on your budget or based on your interests. If you’re travelling in winter, I recommend the Snow Hotel for maximum chance of seeing the northern lights, but you will be out in nature. If you just need somewhere convenient in the city, the Scandic or Thon Hotels are good options. 

    The list is divided into parts of the city and then again into different grades of hotel. They are as follows:

    • High end: 1500+ NOK a night
    • Mid-range: 1000 – 1500 NOK a night
    • Budget: Less than 1000 NOK a night

    Here’s my top list of places to stay in Bergen, sorted by area.

    In this article...

    Kirkenes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Kirkenes travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided walks. 

    In the City

    Why Stay Here?

    If you aren’t spending long in Kirkenes, or prefer to have easy access to shops and restaurants in the city, the city is a good choice. There are only two hotels to choose from, so be sure to read up on both before making your decision. 

    Mid Range

    The Thon & Scandic Hotel Chains

    It’s often difficult differentiating between the Scandic and Thon hotel chains, as they more or less have the same facilities. The big difference between the two in Kirkenes is that the Scandic hotel is located in the town square, while the Thon hotel is located down by the sea. Both come with free breakfast and free Wifi, but the Scandic also has a pool, spa and free parking. The Thon hotel is located closer to the Hurtigruten terminal.

    Click here to view rates for the Scandic Hotel

    Click here to view rates for the Thon Hotel

    Out in Nature

    If you head about 15 minutes out of Kirkenes, you’ll find two excellent options for enjoying the best of the nature here in the Arctic. The big difference between these two is amenities – the Kirkenes SnowHotel has far more going for it than Sollia Gjestegård, but Sollia is also a great choice if you just want to have a nice place to stay without all the extra frills. 

    High End

    SnowHotel Kirkenes

    The Kirkenes Snow Hotel is arguably the most popular place to stay in Kirkenes, and rightly so. I have stayed here a few times, and am constantly blown away by the high quality cabins, food, and experiences on offer.

    You can choose to stay in the Snow Hotel or one of the “Gamma Cabins”. These cabins are amazing!! I’ve stayed in them a few times and wish I could spend days just lounging in these incredible cabins. Meals are included at the property (a reason for the high price of booking) and you can take part in husky safaris, king crab safaris and other experiences offered by the property. 

    Click here to view rates & book

    Mid Range

    Sollia Gjestegård

    Sollia Gjestegård is a charming hotel and cabin rental that is located by the Russian border. They have a restaurant on the property, Gapahukan, which serves local specialties. The hotel is located in an old building that was used as a tuberculosis sanatorium. I spent the night here back in 2019 and enjoyed being out in nature, though you absolutely need a car. Being close to the Russian border is a bit of fun, and it’s an excellent spot to also observe the northern lights.

    Final Thoughts on Where to Stay in Kirkenes

    These are my top picks for hotels in Kirkenes. The options are limited, but easy enough to differentiate what you want. 

    Kirkenes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Kirkenes travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided walks. 

  • Hammerfest, National Highways, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: Skaidi to Hammerfest on the Rv94

    Drive it Yourself: The Rv94 from Skaidi to Hammerfest

    This short drive from Skaidi to Hammerfest will take you through an isolated region in Finnmark. Just as you feel you have driven to the end of the world, you turn a bend and there is the modern, thriving city of Hammerfest.

    In this article...

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    The drive: the Rv94 from Skaidi to Hammerfest

    Skaidi

    Town

    Skaidi is a small village and major traffic hub in Northern Norway. In the 1940s, the Skaidi Mountain Lodge and Station was built. Today it’s an important point to stop if you need a rest on the long road journeys.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station, various electric car charging stations, a cafe and a hotel.

    Repparfjorden

    Fjord

    Repparfjorden is a fjord located southeast of the island Kvaløya, where Hammerfest is. The fjord is quite shallow with an average depth of 40-60 metres and a maximum depth of 123 metres. There are strong currents at the bottom of the fjord.

    Kvalsund

    Town

    Kvalsund is a small village and former municipality in Finnmark. It was its own municipality until 2020, when it was merged with Hammerfest. The name directly translates to the whale strait, refering to the whaling that used to take place in the area. The name of the island Kvaløya means ‘whale island’.

    The village used to be known as “Finnbyen”, referring to the Coastal Sami settlement in the area. Until a few hundred years ago, the Coast Sami culture was completely dominant in Kvalsund. Norwegian and Kven immigration soon made the area multicultural, and during the ‘Norwegianisation’ process of the late 19th/early 20th century, most of the culture was lost. One of the only villages to still have the Coastal Sami culture is Kokelv.

    Kvalsund is one of the areas in Finnmark county with the most cabins that are especially used by people from Hammerfest. There is good salmon fishing in the fjord and there are nice hiking trails in the area.

    Kvalsund Bridge

    Bridge

    The Kvalsund Bridge is a suspension bridge over the Kvalsundet strait, linking the mainland to the island of Kvaløya. The bridge is 741 metres (2,431 ft) long and has 11 spans. It is the northernmost suspension bridge in the world.

    Akkarfjord

    Village

    Akkarfjord is a small fishing village with a population of around 80. There is a ferry service to Hammerfest as well as school. The main industry in the village is fish farming. Sheep farming and fishing tourism are smaller industries.

    Hammerfest

    Hammerfest is the northernmost city in the world with a population over 10,000 people. The town has an ice-free harbour and is regarded as one of the oldest cities in Northern Norway (along with Vardø). People have been living and trading here for hundreds of years. Hammerfest rose to prominence in the 18th and 19th centuries due to its proximity to the Arctic hunting areas.

    In town you’ll find the Reconstruction Museum, which documents what happened to Hammerfest during World War II, as well as the subsequent reconstruction of the region. The address for the museum is Kirkegata 19, 9600 Hammerfest.

    There’s also the Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society, which is neither royal nor ancient (nor are there polar bears in Hammerfest) but it’s a fun little club to commemorate the history of Arctic hunting and trade. Become a member!

    Hammerfest Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Gol, National Highways, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: The Hemsedalsfjellet Mountains (Rv52)

    Drive it Yourself: The Rv52 on Hemsedalsfjellet

    The Rv52 goes between Borlaug (the E16) and Gol. It is a relatively short national highway at only 79km long. Historically this was the shortest connection between East and West Norway over the Hemsedalsfjellet mountains. There has been a road here for hundreds of years, but a modern car road was completed shortly after Gol became a traffic hub in 1909 thanks to the construction of the Bergen Railway. The road opened in the 1940s and was kept open with snow ploughs. From the 1950s, the road was open all through the winter.

    In this article...

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    The drive: the Rv52 on the Hemsedalsfjellet Mountains

    Gol

    Gol is the administrative centre of the municipality. It is also an important transport hub. In Gol you’ll find the Hallingdal Museum, which is part of the Hallingdal Folk High School. As you drive through Gol, you’ll see the replica of the stave church on your right side (if coming from Hønefoss). It’s part of a kids park called Gordarike.

    Hemsedal Municipality

    Hemsedal municipality is a mountainous municipality with a rich cultural heritage. Charcoal dating back to 200AD has been found here, and there was probably a large tribe of reindeer here in old times. This indicates that hunter-gatherers were the first peoples to come to the area. It is possible to spot wild reindeer in the mountains. A stave church has been in Hemsedal since the 13th century, though it was demolished in 1882 to be replaced with the current church. One photograph exists of the old stave church.

    The tallest peak in Hemsedal is Høgeloft (1921m above sea level), and Hemsedal is home to the highest inhabited hamlet in Europe called Lykkja, which is 930m above sea level.

    Hemsedal has a reputation around Norway for being a ski centre. The first hotel was built here in 1900 after there had been a lot of optimism following the upgrade of the historic postal road just a couple decades earlier. Many people started to construct cabins in the area, and in the 1950s the idea of being a ski lift came. Today Hemsedal is one of the most popular ski resorts in the country and has been nicknamed ‘Scandinavia’s Alps’ because of the good ski conditions.

    Hemsedal

    Town

    Hemsedal town, also known as Trøym, is a small town with a population of 944. Hemsedal Church is a small church from 1882. It has space for 420 people.

    Hemsedal Ski Centre

    Ski Centre

    Hemsedal Ski Centre is one of the largest in Norway, with 20 ski lifts and 53 runs of varying difficulty. The ski centre also has facilities for snowboarding and various accommodation types. The Hemsedal Ski Centre has been used for several World Cup races.

    As you drive through Hemsedal, you will see the Ski Centre on the southbound side of the road (it’s easier to see it if you are travelling north)

    Rjukeandfossen

    Waterfall

    Rjukande Waterfall is located north of Hemsedal on the southbound side of the road. There is a parking place and you can walk to the waterfall – the walk takes only 10-15 minutes. Rjukeandfossen is a double waterfall with a height of approximately 18 metres. A suspension bridge is located about 50-100 metres after the waterfall and can be used to cross the river.

    Lærdal Municipality

    Lærdal is a municipality in western Norway. It has a relatively dry climate, with around 600mm of rain a year. Agriculture is one of the biggest industries here. The lower part of the valley has one of the country’s best climactic conditions for growing vegetables.
    The river running through Lærdal is called the Lærdal River and is known as the ‘Queen of the Salmon rivers’ because it is one of Norway’s most famous salmon rivers. In the valley, you can hunt deer, reindeer, and elk.

    Breistølen Fjellstue

    Hotel

    Breistølen Fjellstue opened in 1843 and was formally established as a public transport station in 1891. It is located on the Norwegian Trekking Associations classic trip from Jotunheimen through Skarvheimen to Finse.

    You can view their website here. 

    Borlaug

    Town

    The Rv52 ends at Borlaug. There is a small collection of wooden houses by the road that makes up an open-air museum. From here, you can take the E16 towards Bergen (via Borgund and Flåm) or towards Oslo (via Fagernes).

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Kristiansand, National Highways, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: Telemarkveien (Rv41) from Kristiansand to Brunkeberg

    Drive it Yourself: Telemarksveien (Rv41)

    The Rv41, also known as Telemarksveien (or Telemarksvegen) is a truly remote road. This journey from Kristiansand to Brunkeberg takes you through one of the least populated places south of the Arctic Circle. Along the way, you’ll pass historic farming towns and the famous lake Nisser.

    In this article...

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    The drive: the Rv41 from Kristiansand to Brunkeberg

    Kristiansand

    Kristiansand was established in 1641 and is named after the Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV (who also renamed Oslo after himself to Kristiania). The city is strategically located on the Skaggerak coast and used to be an important military base as all traffic had to pass here in and out of the Baltic Sea. Kristiansand was also an important shipbuilding harbour, and experienced its golden age after the American Revolutionary War and up to the Napoleonic wars.

    Kristiansand Travel Guide

    Tveit

    Town
    Tveit is the first town you pass through after leaving Kristiansand. The town has a population of 1,600 people. It has an Air Force School because of its proximity to the Kristiansand airport. The name comes from the Old Norse word ‘Tveit’, which refers to a separated land or a cleared area of land. Tveit Church (Tveit Kirke) is a stone church from the 12th century. It is clearly marked from the highway.

    Birkenes Municipality

    Agriculture and forestry are important industries in Birkenes. The largest company here is the 3B fiberglass company. The Norwegian Institute for Air Research is located here, and it is one of the most important stations in Europe for measuring trans-boundary air pollutants and climate drivers in Europe. 

    Birkenes Church

    Church
    Birkenes Church is from 1858 and replaced an earlier church on the site. The church is fairly unique for Norway as it is constructed in a Byzantine/Romantic style. The church is located by the highway.

    Mollestadeika

    Famous Tree
    The Mollestad Oak is an oak tree close to the village of Mollestad. It is one of the largest trees in Norway, with a circumference of 9.2 metres (30 feet) and a height of around 12 metres (43ft). Estimates of the age are between 450 and 550 years, but there are also outliers to around 1000 years. The nickname Vetteika comes from the vaettir. She believed that when the farm builder died, he returned as a guardian spirit. The trees that grew around his burial mound were protected and the surrounding land sacred. It was believed that when these trees were damaged this would bring bad luck. To ensure everything went well, sacrifices were made to the tree, including the first brewed beer of the year. The tree is marked with a white sign from the highway.

    Birkeland

    Town
    Birkeland has a population of around 3000 people. A short drive out of town is the Birkenes Bygdemuseum, an open-air museum that is home to the Myhre Peat Litter Factory (Myhre torvstrøfabrik), a museum about a factory that produced peat that was sold to the cleaning works in the cities. Peat litter is used as a component in power, commercial fertilised produced from doe waste.

    Froland Municipality

    Froland Municipality is a largely forested municipality. The coat-of-arms shows a squirrel, which is supposed to represent the forests. An ironworks was founded here in the 18th century and was the main industry until forestry and saw-milling took over in the 19th century. In 2008 there was a forest fire in Froland that is regarded as one of the worst forest fires in history. Over 10,000 acres of forest burned and were fought by around 300 men from the fire brigade, the Home Guard, the civil defence and the red cross. The smell of the smoke could be felt all the way to Thisted in Denmark. Several cabins burned, but no homes were damaged in the fire.

    Åmli Municipality

    Åmli municipality is a forested municipality. The municipality is linked to the beaver, which is clear from the coat-of-arms. It shows a standing white beaver on a blue background. When the beaver was about to become extinct in Eurasia who guys from Åmli were central to saving the remaining Norwegian population. Around 1900, the global population of Eurasian beaver numbered around 1200. The population in Norway was between 60-100. These two men started introducing more beavers and the population grew. In 1918, the population was 7000. Today it is more than 70,000 in Norway and more than 130,000 (originating from southern Norway) in Sweden. Some were also taken to other European countries. The global population has now passed one million. Åmli is home to Scandinavia’s most modern sawmill. The sawmill began operation in 1971 and has been expanded several times.

    Dølemo

    Town
    Dølemo is a historic meeting place. In old times, people would meet here for markets and horse races. The town emerged as a densely populated place around 1880. A surplus of people living in the surrounding farm hamlets, together with the need for other services that could provide livelihoods for people, meant that Dølemo eventually became a centre. Agriculture is the main industry here, and beekeeping has traditionally been an important livelihood with many large producers. Vehus Bigård is still one of the largest honey producers in Southern Norway. Dølemo is known for its annual market, which started in 1980. The market gathers 15,000 visitors a year to a traditional market.

    Åmli

    Town

    Åmli town is the administrative centre of the municipality. Åmfoss Bridge is from 1918 and is one of Northern Europe’s longest stone bridges. Åmli Church is a long church from 1909. It replaced the previous church that burned down on Palm Sunday in 1907.

    Elvarheim Hunting Museum is a museum all about (you guessed it) hunting traditions in Norway.
    You can find more information on their website:
    https://www.kubenarendal.no/lokale-museer/elvarheim-museum

    Nissedal Municipality

    The municipality surrounds the lake Nisser. There are over 1,750 large and small bodies of water and lakes, so the main industry here is hydropower. The name comes from the folkloric creature Nisse. In the 19th century, M.B Landstad suggested that the nisse came from this municipality because there the gnome tradition must have been so alive that Landstad thought the place was named after them. The municipality is actually named after the Lake Nisser, which comes from the Old Norse word referring to a rushing sea. In any case, now the municipality is associated with the nisse and this is reflected in the coat-of-arms. Beaver, roe deer, badger, elk, red fox, porcupine, marten, lemur, hare and viper are found here. Wolf and lynx are very rare. The main industry is agriculture, forestry, the wood industry, and power production.

    Treungen

    Town
    Treungen is a town with a population of 550. It is located at the southern end of the lake Nisser. The town has been closely associated with the city of Arendal throughout history because the lake was part of the Arendal water system. Treungen was an important hub where timber was towed here on the lake before it was sent on its journey towards Arendal. Tveitsund Bride is a historic bridge from 1919 and is the country’s second-longest stone vault bridge with a span of 51 metres. The bridge is known for its high-class engineering. Before there was a bridge, there was a ferry going across. Many people from the village participated in the construction work.

    Nisser Lake

    Lake

    The Nisser is a lake in the Telemark region. It is the second largest lake in telemark with a length of 35km. The tourist industry began around the lake in the 1960s and is a popular place to go swimming in the summer. Whoever buys a fishing license can fish for trout, char, whitefish, and perch.

    Nissedal Church

    Church

    Nissedal Church (Kirke) is a church from 1764. The church is located by the highway on the northbound side.

    Kviteseid Municipality

    Kviteseid is a municipality in the upper part of Telemark. The municipality has existed since the Middle Ages and was an important administrative centre in Telemark. Kviteseid was originally an agricultural community without any real urban development. The most important industries here are still agriculture and forestry, though tourism is on the rise.

    Kviteseid is known for its distinctive cultural traditions, including folk music, arts and crafts, food and architecture. The dialect in Kviteseid is one of the Norwegian dialects that has preserved the most features from Norse and is close to the most conservative form of nynorsk.

    Kviteseid Bygtun

    Museum

    Kviteseid Bygdetun is an open-air museum that is located by the Kviteseid old church and Kviteseid farm. It is in one of Norway’s oldest rural areas. The site has 12 buildings that have been moved from various farms in the district throughout the 20th century. The oldest building is from the 16th century.

    Kviteseid Church

    Church

    The church is from the 13th century. For long periods, especially in the 17th century, the church was the religious and official centre, and the area has been important since ancient times. The church is built in the Romanesque style.

    The church is located next to the historic Kviteseid farm. The farm has been inhabited for over 1000 years and is in the historic centre of the town. For many hundreds of years the farm was the official farm for the parish priest in Kviteseid. The main building burned down in 1764 and the farm was rebuilt in 1769. Today the yard consists of seven buildings forming a square.

    After the old church you will cross two bridges. The second bridge crosses the famous Telemark Canal.

    Kviteseid

    Town

    Kviteseid is a small town with a population of around 800. It is not where the original town was; the original town was closer to the old church. However, the modern town centre was built here. The opening of the Telemark Canal brought a lot of traffic to the region, and this led from Kviteseid being a small settlement to being a modern village.

    Kviteseid has a long tradition in butter production. The first dairy came in the 1890s, and ever since then the town has been known for its butter production.

    Brunkeberg

    Town

    Brunkeberg is a small settlement. Norway’s first teacher’s school was located here. Today the school building has been moved and is being used as a private cottage. Brunkeberg Church is from 1790.

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Kristiansand, National Highways, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: Setesdalveien (the Rv9) from Kristiansand to Haukeli

    Drive it Yourself: Setesdalsveien (Rv9)

    The Rv9 highway from Kristiansand to Haukeli covers southern Norway truly off-the-beaten path. The highway is often nicknamed Setesdalsveien as you’ll travel through the Setesdalen valley. The road itself has been constructed in various stages due to the remoteness and therefore difficulty of the region. The most difficult stretches of road are now tunnels. The Setesdal valley is known for its rich culture and traditions, and the first mention of people in this valley is from the 12th century.

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    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    The drive: the Rv9 from Kristiansand to Haukeli

    Kristiansand

    Kristiansand was established in 1641 and is named after the Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV (who also renamed Oslo after himself to Kristiania). The city is strategically located on the Skaggerak coast and used to be an important military base as all traffic had to pass here in and out of the Baltic Sea. Kristiansand was also an important shipbuilding harbour, and experienced its golden age after the American Revolutionary War and up to the Napoleonic wars.

    Kristiansand Travel Guide

    Mosby

    Town

    Mosby is the northernmost part of the Kristiansand municipality and has a population of 2000.

    Vennesla Municipality

    The first people came to this municipality in the Stone Age. Until industrialisation at the end of the 19th century, people here lived on agriculture, forestry and salmon fishing. The river was used as part of the timber export, and many sawmills were located along the river.

    Salmon has been important to Vennesla and early on attracted foreigners to the village to fish. The most famous foreign salmon fishermen from earlier times are the English noble family Hawkshaw. Salmon disappeared in the early 1960s as a result of the river being polluted by emissions from the timber factory Hunsfoss. The river was cleaned in the 1990s and it is now possible to fish for salmon but only with a license. Hunsfoss was the largest workplace until it went bankrupt in 2011 after 125 years of operation. The main industries today are forestry.

    Vigeland Hovedgård

    Historic Site

    Vigeland Hovedgård is a manor house located in the town of Vikeland. The property is from 1847, though it is sitting on the foundations of the old main building that was demolished. The property was built by a Swiss man called Caspar Wild, who owned a sawmill and Kristiansand and wanted a house for the summer. In 1894 the farm was sold to the Englishman John Clarke Hawkshaw.

    Today the building is a restaurant or you can go on a salmon safari here.

    Øvrebo

    Settlement

    Øvrebo is a small settlement. In the period between World War I and World War II, a ski was found in a bog. The ski is the oldest ski in Norway and is on display at the Ski Museum at Holmenkollen in Oslo. It is believed to be from the Bronze Age.

    Hægeland

    Town

    Hægeland is a small town with a population of 364. In older, times, the population would be over 700. Hægeland is known for having a strong Christian congregational life, and the famous healing preacher Svein-Magne Pedersen had his offices here.

    Hægeland Church is from 1830. The oldest mention of a church in history is from 1565. In the 17th century, the church owned several cows that were rented out to farmers. The church was in bad condition by the end of the 17th century and was sold by the King into private hands. The old church was demolished in 1829 and replaced with the present church.

    Evje and Hornnes Municipality

    Evje and Hornnes is a municipality that was created when two separate municipalities were merged in 1960. The municipality is rich in old cultural landscapes and has several distinctive cultural monuments after mining. For example, the Flåt nickel mine, formerly Northern Europe’s largest nickel mine, is located here.

    This is one of the largest ‘moose municipalities’ in Southern Norway. Some landowners run hunting rentals for both deer and small game.

    Evje

    Town

    Evje is the administrative centre of the municipality and has a population of 2,500 people. The town grew in association with mining that took place in the area, especially the nickel refinery that is now a museum. Called the Flåt nickel mine, the mine opened in 1872 and closed in 1946. For a time, it was the largest nickel mine in Europe and was even the world’s largest for a short period in the 1880s. There are several paths that you can follow at the site. This is a short detour out of Evje.

    Another interesting attraction in Evje is the Galteland stone, a rune stone from the beginning of the 11th century. The original is kept at the Cultural History Museum in Oslo, while in Evje there is a replica.

    Otra River

    River

    The Otra is the largest river in Southern Norway. It is 246km long and starts at the high end of the Setesdal valley and empties out into the harbour near Kristiansand. There are salmon in the river and some salmon fishing is permitted with a licence.

    Bygland Municipality

    Bygland is a municipality in the valley and traditional region of Setesdal. About 80% of the municipality consists of mountains, bogs, water, pastures, and forest. The river Otra runs through the valley and the municipality. The coat-of-arms represents the lynx, which can be found in the municipality. The lynx are sometimes hunted if they are causing losses to the sheep herd.

    Byglandsfjord

    Town

    Byglandsfjord is the municipal centre and has a population of 330. The town is a communications hub that developed at the beginning of the 20th century. Here there was a change from transport on land to see. Byglandsfjord station was the end point for the Setesdalsbanen that ran down to Kristiansand. From here, transport was done on boat. The veteran boat DS Bjoren does summer routes from Byglandsfjord via Bygland to Ose. In Byglandsfjord is a Tine factory that produces butter.

    Byglandsfjord station is a historic building in town. The station is built in ‘dragestil’ or the dragon style.

    Grendi

    Town

    Grendi is a small village with an interesting building. The Landeskogen Tuberculosis Sanatorium is in Grendi. It was the first of a series of government health measures against tuberculosis at the beginning of the 20th century. The buildings are from 1912 and the sanatorium opened in 1916. It could fit 134 patients. In 1962, the building was turned into a home for the developmentally disabled, and in 2005 the Pentecostal congregation Filadelfia in Kristiansand opened a rehabilitation centre for drug addicts. In 2010, Aktive Fredsreiser established the non-profit Landeskogen peace centre, which it still is today.

    Årdal Church is an octagonal church from 1828. In the cemetery is a monument for Even Thorkildsen Lande, a politician who was active during the writing of the Norwegian constitution. The current church likely replaces a stave church from before the year 1300.

    Hanehaug

    Historic Site

    North of Bygland is Hanehaug, a burial mound and archaeological site. Here graves have been found from the Stone Age, Iron Age, Bronze Age, Migration Period and Viking Age at Nese in Bygland. The diameter of the bound is 16 metres.

    King Hane is said to have lived here in the 11th century and ruled over the whole of Bygland. Legend says that St. Olav came on a Christian journey to Setesdal. King Hane gathered an army from all the surrounding villages to fight against the King. The battle is said to have taken place in an area north of Bygland. King Hane fell and was buried in Hanehaug. His holy white troll cow, Audhumbla, was buried in a mound next to him.

    The site is marked with a white sign that says “Gravfelt”

    Valle Municipality

    Valle is a largely forested municipality with most of the settlement living along the river Otra. In older times, when the road to the mountains was more important, the communications conditions were such that Valle and the rest of Setesdal was very isolated from the west of the country. At Lysebotn in the western part of the municipality there was a meeting point between the people from Western Norway and the people from Setesdalen. Because of its isolation, Valle has unique cultural traditions. The instrument “Munnharpe” is important here, along with the fiddle. Valle also has a unique folk costume.

    Valle has a special secondary school for students who want to learn to be a goldsmith. Hydropower is an important income for the municipality.

    Rysstad

    Settlement

    Rysstad is a hamlet that is regarded as the cultural centre of Valle. Rysstad is the historic centre of the municipality. In Rysstad you’ll find Hylestad Church (Hylestad Kyrkja) – it’s by the highway. It is an octagonal church from 1839 and seats 200. In the church are copies of the Hylestad Portal, with motifs from the legend of Sigurd Fåvnesbane. The portal came from the stave church that used to stand on the site. Hylestad Stave Church was demolished in the 17th century.

    Sylvartun

    Historic Site

    Sylvartun is a historic building that is on the northbound side of the highway. The folk music environment in Setesdal is in many ways unique with strumming on the Hardanger fiddle and harmonica, kveding and dance handed down in an unbroken tradition. The oldest practitioners today learned everything the old-fashioned way – directly from fellow villagers who were born at the end of the 19th century.

    In addition, music and dance have for a long time been mediated through performers at a very high artistic level. Folk music is one of the trademarks of Setesdal that people expect when they come to the valley.

    From its establishment in 1961 until the end of the 2000s, through four decades, Sylvartun was the central sylvsmed and folk music arena in Setesdal. Setesdalsmuseet has seen it as a task to make arrangements so that Sylvartun can welcome visitors again. There are new exhibitions with a focus on musical instruments and visualization of music and dance traditions in Setesdal but with great transfer value to the surrounding area. We call it a center for intangible cultural heritage.

    In addition to being an exhibition arena, Sylvartun is also an activity center and an offer for children and young people in the whole valley with a view to promoting intangible cultural heritage as a practice arena for the playground, cultural school, etc.

    The museum is open in the summer months. https://www.setesdalsmuseet.no/faste-utstillingar/sylvartun/

    Valle

    Town

    Valle is the administrative centre of the municipality and has a population of around 300. The town used to be a popular destination for artists and there were three hotels in the town. Valle is also where the secondary school for goldsmiths is.

    Hovden

    Town

    Hovden is a population of 410 and is a large centre for tourism. Hovden is particularly known for its ski facilities. Before the ski facilities were constructed in the 1980s, the region was mapped and excavated to look for remains from the iron mining in the Viking age. Hovden holds the cold record for the county, with the temperature reaching – 38C in 1982.

    The Hovden Iron Museum is a museum about the history of iron ore in the region. The area was mined during the Viking and Middle Ages.

    Vinje Municipality

    Vinje municipality is a remote municipality with about 1.2 inhabitants per square kilometre. The municipality is located at the northern end of Telemark and extends into the Hardangervidda National Park.

    Haukeli

    Town

    Haukeli is a small settlement. Here you’ll find a café and place to eat called “Haukelo Turisthem”. Haukeli is the last settlement in Telemark you’ll visit before crossing over into the county of Vestland, which is part of western Norway.

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

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  • Hamar, Kongsvinger, National Highways, Road-trips, Røros

    Drive it Yourself: Norway’s East Side (Rv2 & Rv3)

    Drive it Yourself: Norway's East Side (Rv2 & Rv3)

    The eastern side of Norway alongside the Swedish border is known for its large forests, remote settlements, and moose population. Not many tourists make it this far east, but for those that do, they are rewarded with charming historic and industrial settlements as well as beautiful stretches of highway through dense pine and oak forests.

    In this article...

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    The drive: the Rv2 & Rv3

    Lina

    Town

    This drive begins on the Norwegian/Swedish border in a small village called Lina.

    Skotterud

    Town

    Skotterud is a small town with a population of around 1,300. The town is known for the forestry industry and has some sawmills and other timber businesses. Skotterud is located on the southernmost point of the Finnskogen forest. The town is also a stop on the Kongsvinger railway line, which runs from Lillestrøm just outside of Oslo to Charlottenberg on the Swedish border, where it’s possible to change trains and head to Stockholm.

    Matrand

    Town

    The Rv2 passes alongside Matrand, but not through the town. If you want to drive into the town, there is a nice historic church just off the highway called Eidskog Church. Eidskog Church is a small church from 1665 and has a baptismal font from the Middle Ages. It’s believed there was an earlier church on the site that was likely a stave church.

    Kongsvinger

    Kongsvinger is both a municipality and town that you will soon pass through. The town is on the Glomma, which is Norway’s longest river (the guide will cover the river soon). Kongsvinger is an interesting historic town worth spending some time in.

    It’s believed that the town has been an important place since the Viking Age, and several finds from the Stone Age have been found in the area. In the 17th century, the Kongsvinger fortress was constructed by King Christian V of Denmark-Norway to protect the city from attacks from Sweden. The city was redesigned into a grid layout by Johan Caspar de Cicignon, who also designed the street layout for Trondheim.

    When Norway entered into a union with Sweden in 1814, Kongsvinger became an important rest stop for travellers between the two countries. The fortress was more or less shut down in 1823. Railway development reached Kongsvinger in 1862 with the construction of the Kongsvinger Line between Lillestrøm and the Swedish border.

    Today the town is characterised by being heavily forested, so agriculture and forestry-related businesses are the main industries.

    Kongsvinger Travel Guide

    Glomma River

    River

    At 621km (386 mi), the Glomma is Norway’s longest river. It has a drainage basin that covers 13% of Norway’s surface area, all in the southern part of the country.

    At its full length, the river runs from Aursund near Røros and empties into the Oslofjord in Fredrikstad.

    The combination of raw materials, water power and transport has over the centuries encouraged industry along the Glomma. Some of the country’s largest manufacturing and processing businesses are found at its mouth.

    Grue Municipality

    Grue municipality is a largely forested municipality. The word ‘grue’ comes from the Old Norse word referring to a grave or pit, and there have been many burial mounds discovered here as well as finds from the Viking Age. Flint fields that are over 4,000 years old have been discovered here.

    Kirkenær

    Town

    Kirkenær is the administrative centre of Grue municipality. It used to be an important community with timber mills and nailworks but has now lost its importance.

    In 1822 Kirkenær was the scene of the Grue Church fire, a major fire disaster in which at least 113 people died, and which led to a legal order that all doors in public buildings should swing outwards. The current Grue Church is from 1828 and is located on the highway (northbound/Ulsberg side). Kirkenær station is a lovely building, but train traffic no longer goes through here. There’s also a beautiful old building called Kirkenær farm, which is the farm that gave the town its name.

    Arneberg Church & Hof Church

    Historic Site

    On the northbound side of the road is Arneberg Church. The church is from 1878 and was built for the villagers on the east side of the river so they no longer had to travel across to Hof Church on the other side. Shortly before it was decided to build this church, three people drowned trying to get across the river to the church.

    If you want to visit Hof Church, it is located just over the river from the highway. The exit is marked with a yellow sign saying Hof (3km) and a picture of a church. Hof Church is a brick church from 1860, but was built to replace a stave church that was demolished for being too small in 1861. The baptismal font is from the 13th century and the altarpiece comes from the stave church that stands on the site.

    Åsnes Municipality

    Findings from the Stone Age here show that the first settlements came along the river around 1,500 years ago. In the Old Norse sagas, Snorre Sturlason writes about a chieftain who cleared the forest to establish a settlement. Christianity reached the area in the 12th century.

    The name of this traditional region is Solør, which is a well-known agricultural area and is one of Norway’s largest potato districts. The area is characterised by large forests where there are large moraine deposits and gravel deposits.

    Flisa

    Town

    Flisa is the administrative centre of the Åsnes municipality with the Glomma river flowing here. Flisa Bridge is the world’s longest wooden bridge designed for full traffic loads. The bridge opened in2 003 and is 196 metres long.

    Here’s something interesting to see in Flisa – the world’s largest toothpick. The Norwegian company Jordan (the produces toothpicks) has a factory here. If you want to see it, the toothpick is at the end of the bridge on the east side of the Flisa train station. Put “Toothpick Flisa” into GPS – it’s a few minutes off the highway.

    Another interesting thing about Flisa – in summer they are plagued with mosquitos to the extent that the mosquitos are known as “Flisa Mygg” or “Flisa mosquitos”.

    Toothpicks and mosquitos – Flisa has it all!

    Våler Municipality

    Våler municipality is a largely forested municipality, with nearly 90% of the total area covered by forest. though there is a lot of agriculture here. It’s believed the first peoples settled here around 1800BC and they lived by hunting and fishing. The name Våler comes from the word “Vål”, which means piles of branches and tree stumps from cleared land. A legend tells that when St. Olav travelled through the area to Christianise people and came to Våler, he encountered some resistance but his power (and threats, probably) encouraged people to convert to Christianity. Disagreement about where to build the new church led to arguments, to Olav shot his arrow into the sky and where it landed the church would be built. The arrow fell into a bog down by the river, so the areawas called Våler. The coat-of-arms represent St. Olav’s arrow.

    Many Finns settled in Våler in the 16th century. The Finnish immigration was due to the fact that at the time there was war and famine in Finland, and the Swedish king Gustav Vasa welcome the Finns to cultivate the huge unused forest areas on the border. The Finns brought a special culture and way of life, including their special form of agriculture called “svedjebruk”. This method involved setting fire to the forest and cultivating the burnt area which, due to the ash, was very fertile. They grew rye, cabbage and turnips. The Finns also brought language with them. This is why the forest here is called Finnskogen – Finn Forest.

    Shortly after entering the municipality you’ll pass the turn-off for the town of Valer (the sign reads “Valer sentrum”, which is the administrative centre. The highway doesn’t go through the town.

    Elverum Municipality

    Elverum is the next municipality. Elverum is known as the ‘forest capital’ of Eastern Norway and has several timber industry companies, including the head office of the Glomma Forest Owners Association and a regional office of the Norwegian forestry association. The military also has an important presence here that has existed since the 17th century because of the proximity to the Swedish border. A large defence system was built in the late 17th century to protect Norway if war broke out with Sweden. Today there is a military camp here called Terningmoen, which has the Guard School (recruit school for the King’s Guard) and the Weapons School.

    Elverum

    Elverum town has a population of 15,000 and is the administrative centre for the municipality as well as a major hub in eastern Norway. The town is located on both sides of the Glomma River, with the eastern side being where the town grew up in the 17th century. The western side is more industrial with the military base, but also where the Glomsdal Museum is if you want to learn about the history of the area.

    The fortress Christiansfjeld was built in the late 17th century after Norwegian troops managed to stop a Swedish invasion in the area around Elverum, proving this was an important point. The fortress closed in 1742 after the major battled ended. Elverum was also an important market town after the town of Hamar was destroyed by Swedish troops and lost its city status.

    Elverum Travel Guide

    Åmot Municipality

    Åmot municipality is a small agricultural municipality. The name ‘Åmot’ refers to the meeting of rivers, and the municipality has the name because two major rivers meet here.

    Rena

    Town

    Rena is the administrative centre of Åmot municipality. Around 2,100 people live here and the main industry here is agriculture and forestry. The town was built up in the 19th century as communications improved along the river. During World War II, the town was heavily bombed by the Luftwaffe because it was believed that King Haakon and the government were hiding here.

    Stor Elvdal Municipality

    Stor-Elvdal municipality is a forested municipality with some mountains towards the west side of the municipality, where the Hedmarksvidda plateau is. In the north is the Rondane national park region. The municipality is characterised by the Glomma river, which flows through it. Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson characterised Stor-Elvdal as Norway’s “Rhine Valley”.

    Atna

    Town

    Atna is a small settlement just off the highway. If you are looking for a food/coffee break, Glopheim Café is a protected building and the only one of its type protected in Norway. Unfortunately, at time of writing the café is listed as closed and the microbrewery it helped revive went bankrupt in 2022.

    Rendalen Municipality

    Rendalen municipality is a heavily forested area with some mountains towards the western end. The municipality has a declining population; in the 1960s over 3,000 people lived here. Today, the number is around 1,700. The main industries here are forestry and agriculture.

    Alvdal Municipality

    The coat-of-arms of Alvdal represents skis, indicating the importance of skiing in the area but also the discovery of some of Norway’s oldest skis – dating to the 6th century – in the area. Alvdal is a mountainous municipality with some wild reindeer in the mountains. There has been human activity here since the Old Stone Age (before 4000BC).

    Alver

    Town

    Alvdal is a small town (pop. 2,418) with a long tradition of mining, as is common in this part of Norway. There has been mining in Alvdal since 1656, when the first finds of copper ore were made nearby. Mining didn’t take off until copper was found in Folldal in 1745. The mines in Folldal got into disputes with the mining operations in Røros, including access to timber. Due to the little access to timber in Folldal, a smelting hut was built in Alvdal instead. Alvdal has plenty of access to timber. It was less resource intensive to transfer ore to Alvdal than it was to transport wood to Folldal.

    New mines were built around the area in the 18th century. From 1905, a cable car was used to transport ore to Alvdal. Mining operations declined and have mostly ended now. Today the largest employer is the dairy company, and many people work in agriculture and the timber industry.

    Tynset Municipality

    Tynset municipality is a historic mining municipality. Tynset was first mentioned in 1211, when the archbishop of Nidaros in Trondheim had a stave church built here.

    Tynset

    Town

    Tynset is located a few minutes drive off the highway, but is a good town to detour into. Tynset is a small town located in the north of Østerdalen, or the Eastern Valley. It is first mentioned in 1211, when the archbishop of Nidaros consecrated a stave church. There is no stave church today; there are parts from an old stave church at Kvikne (more on that below).

    The town is known for its vast areas of forest and mountains, which are ideal for outdoor activities. Tynset is also one of the few places where most of its mountain farms (seter) are in use. You can visit them when hiking, and even rent some for the night.

    Kvikne

    Town

    Kvikne is home to the Kvikne copperworks, founded in 1630, which was one of Norway’s first copperworks. This led to the population in the mountain village rising and laying a foundation for further development. The copperworks was run by the Danish King, and was the largest copper plant in Norway. Eventually Folldal and Røros became more important, and Kvikne was clsoed down in 1812, though operations continued in a much smaller capacity until 1912. Only ruins remain today, but you can visit them.

    Kvikne Church (“Kviknes Kirke”) is from 1654 and seats 203. It has decorated equipment and an interior with a carved altarpiece and pulpit. The crucifix is in the Romanesque style and dates to around 1200. In the attic, stave church planks in the Urnes style (a famous early pattern design on stave churches) have been found, probably from an older church on the site. Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson was baptised in the church.

    Close to the church is the Bjørgan vicarage, a museum and former vicarage in Kvikne. It is considered an artists home as Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson (1832-1910) was born here and lived here until he was five. The house is built in 1780 and was a vicarage until 1860. The building was supposed to be demolished, but it was saved in an attempt to make it a museum for Bjørnson. Several items from his time are on display in the museum. 

    Rennebu Municipality

    Rennebu municipality is a mountainous municipality with both the Trollheimen and Forollhogna national parks partly located here. The name Rennebu comes from an old village that was on the road between Oslo and Trondheim.

    Ulsberg

    Town

    This drive ends at Ulsberg, which is where the Rv3 and E6 meet.

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!