Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • The History of Geiranger

    The History of Geiranger

    The history of Geiranger is surprisingly detailed considering the location! Geiranger is a small village located at the head of the Geirangerfjord in western Norway, renowned for its dramatic scenery and now a hub for fjord tourism. In fact, it is one of the most visited places in Norway!

    Yet, behind its stunning natural beauty lies a rich history that stretches from the Stone Age through the Viking era, medieval times, and into the modern age. Over the centuries, Geiranger’s remote geography – nestled among steep mountains and a deep fjord – has profoundly shaped its culture, livelihood, and development.

    This historical overivew explores Geiranger’s journey through time, from its early settlement and Viking-age farming era to its transformation into a once-isolated fjord community and, ultimately, a bustling tourist destination, all while highlighting how the landscape has profoundly influenced life at every turn. I think it’s important to understand the historic significance of these places, especially if you are planning to visit yourself. 

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Geiranger is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Early Settlement & Viking Times

    Finds from the Stone Age and Bronze Age have been uncovered around the fjord, suggesting that small communities once inhabited this area in prehistoric times. By the Iron Age and into the Viking Age, Geiranger was surely inhabited – burial mounds at the Vinje farm above the fjord, for example, bear witness to Viking-era activity in the valley.

    The name Geiranger is of Old Norse origin: geirr meaning “spear” and angr meaning “fjord,” likely a reference to the fjord’s long, tapered shape. This name, along with the Norse farm names scattered across the hillsides, reveals the area’s deep-rooted Viking Age heritage.

    During the early centuries of settlement, Geiranger served as a meeting and trading place for coastal fjord people and those from the interior. They would gather at a site called Merok on the fjord shore to barter fish, hides, and salt from the coast in exchange for grain, livestock, and other inland goods. This exchange underscores how geography influenced the economy: the sea’s bounty met the inland’s agriculture through Geiranger’s marketplace.

    Medieval Life on the Fjord

    During the medieval era (c. 1000–1500 AD), Geiranger was a small, isolated farming village. The introduction of Christianity reached even this remote fjord: by the mid-15th century, the villagers had built their first chapel. The earliest records of a church in Geiranger date back to 1589, but it was noted at the time that the church was old, likely founded as a wooden chapel around the 15th century. This medieval church (possibly a simple stave church) signifies a settled community by that time. Administratively, Geiranger was part of the parish of Norddal at that time, meaning residents had to endure long journeys—often by boat or over mountain trails—to attend regional church gatherings before they had their chapel. The establishment of a local church, however, became a focal point for the scattered farmsteads, reinforcing a sense of community in the valley.

    The village’s geography—surrounded by mountains with only the fjord as a transport route—reinforced this isolation. Steep footpaths connected a handful of farm clusters, but traversing the hills was tough and often impossible in winter. To reach markets or neighbours in other valleys, people had to hike over high passes or row long distances along the fjord. This physical isolation meant that local culture and traditions developed with little outside influence, and tight-knit cooperation among families was essential for survival.

    How Farms Worked in Medieval Times

    Geiranger’s medieval and early modern farmers made the most of what the land had to offer. Arable plots were carved out of mountainsides in terraced fields, and livestock (mainly goats, sheep, and cows) were raised on whatever pasture could be found. Many farms were perched on perilously steep ledges above the fjord – a testament to how every scrap of usable land was precious. On these mountain farms, life was incredibly harsh. Families had to climb narrow trails to reach their homesteads, and legend holds that parents would tether small children with ropes to keep them from falling off the sheer cliffs. An infamous example is the Skageflå farm, clinging to a cliff 250 metres above the water; before part of it was destroyed by a rockslide in 1873, its residents indeed tied their children to prevent deadly tumbles. Such practices underscore how Geiranger’s dramatic geography dictated everyday life, from building techniques (stone walls and timber houses hugging the rock face) to safety precautions rooted in local lore.

    From Fjord Farm to Tourist Destination

    Geiranger around the year 1880 (photo by Axel Lindahl)

    The 19th century brought about dramatic changes that would propel Geiranger out of its long period of isolation. The first hints of modernisation arrived in 1858, when a scheduled steamship route began stopping at Geiranger. For the first time, residents had a regular ferry link to other villages and the coastal town of Ålesund. This weekly boat service meant essential goods and news from the wider world could arrive more easily, and local farmers could export their butter, cheese or wool. It was a small revolution in connectivity – the fjord was now a marine highway bringing Geiranger closer to the world beyond its mountains.

    Then came the pioneers of tourism. In 1869 Geiranger welcomed its very first cruise tourists – the British Backhouse family, who sailed their yacht Nereid into the fjord and came ashore. At the time, there were no hotels or tourist facilities at all. The Backhouses and their crew, being naturalists and adventurers, captivated and puzzled the local farmers. They wandered the valley studying plants and marvelling at waterfalls, while locals looked on in bemusement at these strangers who “did nothing useful” except explore and take photographs. The visitors even distributed a humanitarian magazine and took pictures of some residents – likely the first photos ever taken in Geiranger.

    Sensing opportunities, enterprising locals soon adapted to serve these early tourists. In 1869, a farmer named Martinius Merok established a small inn and general store at Maråk, a shoreline area, to accommodate visitors. This humble guesthouse (later Merok’s Hotel) also doubled as a barn – a reminder that tourism alone wasn’t yet profitable enough, so the owner kept cattle, sheep and pigs on the side. Throughout the 1870s and 1880s, the trickle of tourists slowly grew. They mainly came by steamship in summer, as overland travel remained extremely difficult.

    Road Connection to Geiranger

    The turning point came with a feat of road engineering: the Geiranger Road, which spans the mountains, was completed in 1889. For the first time, Geiranger was reachable by wheeled transport – a winding, hairpin-filled route connecting the village up through the high pass to Grotli (and onward to the inland town of Lom). By 1894, the road extended all the way south to connect with routes to Stryn, completing a link between Geirangerfjord and the rest of Norway’s road network.

    The opening of the road sparked nothing short of an economic revolution in Geiranger. In the late 1880s, as the road neared completion, dozens of new tourist ships started calling at the fjord. In the summer of 1888, around 39 cruise steamers visited; a decade later, by 1898–1900, roughly 70 ships were arriving each year. In just ten years, Geiranger had transformed into an authentic tourist village.

    Entrepreneurs built several hotels to accommodate the influx: Hotel Geiranger (first established as a lodging house in the early 1880s and later expanded), the grand Hotel Union (opened 1893 on a hill above the village), and Hotel Utsikten (1893) which offered a panoramic view from the cliffs. Even a mountain lodge at nearby Djupvatnet lake opened in 1892 to serve those travelling the high road. The combination of a carriage road and comfortable hotels meant Geiranger could now welcome visitors in style – a far cry from the days of a single barn-inn.

    Geiranger around the year 1909 - photo by Anders beer Wilse

    Famous Visitors to Geiranger

    One particularly illustrious visitor gave Geiranger international fame. In July 1890, Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany steamed into Geirangerfjord with a fleet of three royal ships. The German Emperor went ashore, climbed to a vantage point overlooking the village, and was enchanted. This marked the first time a reigning monarch had ever visited Geiranger. The Kaiser’s enthusiasm for Norway’s fjords was well known, and after 1890, he returned to Geiranger nearly every summer until World War I. His patronage was superb advertisement, putting Geiranger on the map among Europe’s elite. Soon English lords, European royals, and wealthy globetrotters all wanted to see the “pearl of the Norwegian fjords” for themselves.

    By the turn of the 20th century, the village’s character had undergone a fundamental change. Geiranger’s population around 1900 was just over 400 people, most of whom were still engaged in farming. However, many supplemented their income by working in hotels, guiding tourists, or operating transportation services.

    Locals set up a horse-and-carriage transport service to carry guests up the zigzag road and to scenic spots. Women sold handicrafts and traditional costumes, while men might row visitors across the fjord to see waterfalls. The geography that once isolated Geiranger was now its most significant asset: visitors came precisely to experience the majestic mountains, thundering waterfalls and panoramic vistas that villagers once took for granted.

    Early 20th Century Growth & World War II

    Local taxis waiting to take tourists up the mountain - photo in 1937 by Anders Beer Wilse

    The 20th century maintained the trajectory of tourism growth, albeit with some interruptions. In the early decades, cruise ships and steamers continued to ferry summer tourists, while the road over the mountain accommodated adventurous automobile travellers as cars became more common. Geirangerfjord emerged as one of Norway’s oldest international tourist destinations, celebrated alongside Nærøyfjord for its stunning beauty. However, the two World Wars caused lulls in travel. During World War I, foreign tourism came to a near standstill (the Kaiser’s last visit was in 1914)—local hotels coped by relying on domestic guests or closing during the war years. During World War II, when Norway was under German occupation from 1940 to 1945, Geiranger saw few visitors due to travel restrictions, and some hotel buildings were repurposed by the authorities or left vacant. The village, far from any battlefront, avoided physical damage during the wars, but the lack of tourism necessitated a temporary return to farming and fishing. Many of the vehicles used for taxis were discarded into the fjord by the Nazis.

    After World War II, peace and prosperity in Europe brought ever-increasing crowds to Geiranger.

    Post War Modernisation

    Tourists on a switchback road - 1962 (photo by Røstad, Paul Andreas)

    The advent of mass car tourism led to the development of new infrastructure. In 1954, the “Eagle Road” (Ørnevegen) was completed, carving a series of sharp switchbacks up the fjord’s northern wall to connect Geiranger with Eidsdal and beyond. This new road link (named for the eagles that soar above its hairpin turns) meant travellers could drive into Geiranger from the north as well, creating a famous loop route. Even more dramatic, the mountain pass road to Geiranger was linked with the Trollstigen road (an equally hair-raising route northward) by the mid-1930s, establishing what is now an iconic national tourist circuit. These roads themselves became attractions for their thrilling views. Meanwhile, a ferry service between Geiranger and Hellesylt commenced, enabling tourists to sail the entire length of the Geirangerfjord as part of their journey.

    By the late 20th century, Geiranger was firmly on the global tourist trail, with thousands of cruise passengers and independent travellers arriving each summer by ship, bus, and car.

     

    UNESCO World Heritage Status

    In recognition of its extraordinary natural and cultural value, the Geirangerfjord area was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005. This status honours both the unique blend of natural grandeur and human heritage, including the historic farms, ferry landings, and mountain trails, and helps ensure their preservation. The World Heritage listing emphasises that Geirangerfjord has a rich history “from the oldest Stone Age finds, through the Bronze and Viking Ages, the Middle Ages and into modern times”. In other words, the landscape itself is like a timeline of Norwegian history. With UNESCO protection, there is greater focus on sustainable tourism and safeguarding the fjord’s environment from overuse. Local culture is preserved through museums, such as the Norwegian Fjord Centre in Geiranger, which showcases the area’s geology, avalanches, and the history of the fjord community.

    Life Today

    Geography continues to pose challenges even in modern Geiranger. The very cliffs that create such postcard-perfect waterfalls also pose risks of landslides. Residents live with the knowledge that a mountainside called Åkerneset, farther out the fjord, has an unstable section that geologists monitor closely – a major collapse there could send a tidal wave up the fjord. Accordingly, early-warning sirens and evacuation drills are in place in case of a slide-triggered tsunami. This ever-present threat from nature is simply part of life in Geiranger, just as avalanches and rockfalls have always been. It seems living in this fjord has always required resilience and respect for the landscape’s power.

    As tourism has boomed, Geiranger’s population dwindled compared to its heyday. Traditional farming gradually declined – many of the old cliff farms were abandoned as younger generations found less punishing livelihoods. (A few hardy souls held on; some remote farms like Skageflå remained active into the 20th century before finally being left to caretakers or converted into summer pastureland.) The village itself became oriented almost entirely around serving visitors. Tourism became the primary economic driver, generating jobs in hotels, restaurants, guiding services, and retail shops. Today, only around 200–250 people reside in Geiranger year-round, but in the summer, the population swells with seasonal workers and is inundated by guests – on peak days, over 5,000 tourists can crowd into the tiny village.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Geiranger is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    History of Geiranger Resources

    All photos (except the modern ones, which are mine) are sourced from DigitaltMuseum and are licensed-free.

    For the historical overview, I consulted the tourism board websites, the UNESCO World Heritage website, National Geographic, WikiVoyage, and various travel guides. 

  • The Complete Guide to Saunas in Norway

    The Complete Guide to Saunas in Norway

    Sauna culture is thriving across Norway, with both locals and visitors embracing the classic hot-cold ritual in every season. From floating wood-fired saunas on scenic fjords to luxury hotel spa facilities, each city offers unique ways to sweat and then plunge into refreshing waters year-round.

    When I travel with groups, I’m finding increasingly that one of the top requests is to take a sauna. So, I figured I may as well put together a full list of saunas in Norway. I only included major destinations; you can find saunas almost anywhere in the country. 

    Below is a city-by-city guide to notable sauna options – including traditional wood-fired cabins, electric urban saunas, floating fjord saunas, mobile units, and luxury spa experiences – along with approximate price ranges (in Norwegian Krone, NOK) and booking info. All prices are current as of 2025 and are provided in NOK. Note that the prices vary a lot depending on the season and time of day, so do check their website for a more accurate price. 

    In this article...

    Oslo

    Oslo’s sauna scene is booming, blending urban culture with Nordic tradition. The Oslofjord is home to numerous floating saunas and waterfront facilities – a true all-year activity even in freezing winters. Sauna-bathing has become a signature Oslo experience, with both public drop-in saunas and private rentals available. I would say that of all these places, Oslo is where I first saw saunas really taking off. 

    KOK Oslo

    KOK offers wood-fired floating saunas at two central locations (Langkaia by the Opera and Aker Brygge). Each sauna holds up to 10 people and can be booked for 2-hour private sessions or 1.5-hour shared sessions. Prices start around NOK 1,280 for a private docked sauna (up to 10 people) and NOK 3,700 for a 2-hour fjord sauna cruise with an electric motor. Please note that prices vary depending on the time of day.

    Individuals can join a “FellesKOK” shared sauna for about NOK 320 per person (1.5 hours). These floating spa boats have changing rooms, stereo systems, and panoramic windows – perfect for a hot bake and a dip in the Oslofjord even in mid-winter.

    Oslo’s sauna scene is booming, blending urban culture with Nordic tradition. The Oslofjord is home to numerous floating saunas and waterfront facilities – a true all-year activity even in freezing winters. Sauna-bathing has become a signature Oslo experience, with both public drop-in saunas and private rentals available. I would say that of all these places, Oslo is where I first saw saunas really taking off. 

    SALT Sauna

    An outdoor art and culture venue by the Oslo harbour, SALT features 12 different saunas (with capacities ranging from 4 to 100 people) in a festival-like atmosphere, complete with bars, food, music, and even DJs on weekends.

    You can drop in to the public sauna area (which includes multiple large saunas, cold plunge pools, showers and a lounge) for 2.5-hour sessions. Tickets cost approximately NOK 205 on weekdays and NOK 255 on weekends for adults. Students and children receive discounts.

    Private sauna rentals are available too – e.g. a small “Barrel” sauna (4 ppl) for ~NOK 1,060, a larger “Naustet” cabin (6 ppl) for ~NOK 1,495, or a big barrel for 8 at ~NOK 1,990SALT operates year-round (early morning into late night); advance booking is recommended (via their site salted.no). The vibe is social and vibrant – you can sweat with locals, then cool off in the Oslo Fjord right outside.

    Oslo Sauna Association (Oslo Badstuforening)

    This member-based nonprofit has spawned an urban sauna revival in Oslo. They operate multiple floating saunas at 6–7 locations around the city’s waterfront – including at Sukkerbiten (near the Munch Museum) and Langkaia (Opera) – plus some mobile units that pop up at city beaches and even inland lakes (e.g. Hvervenbukta and Mariholtet).

    Shared drop-in sessions run daily (07:00–22:00) for approximately NOK 220–260 per person (1.5 hours) for non-members, while members pay around NOK 125–150. You’ll be sitting alongside locals in a communal atmosphere – a great chance to experience the Norwegian sauna ethos of fellesskap (togetherness).

    It’s also possible to rent entire saunas privately through the association’s booking system. Facilities are generally rustic: wood-fired stoves, small changing areas, and direct access to the fjord for swimming. Drop-ins often sell out, so I recommend reserving in advance if possible.

    Kongen Marina

    If you want to escape the city, Kongen Marina by Frognerkilen features a dome sauna, a glass sauna with 360-degree views. Kongen Marina is a fascinating place to visit anyway; described as a ‘Miami Vice’ style beach club, bar and restaurant, you’ll feel like you’re at a beach in Miami when you visit – maybe!

    Oslo Fjord Sauna

    Fjord CleanUP is an organisation that focuses on picking up litter from the seabed. They have two saunas, Huginn and Muninn, and they are located at the northern end of the Sørenga peninsula. All proceeds from the saunas go to the Fjord CleanUP project.

    For a full spa experience, some hotels offer saunas to guests, and just outside Oslo is “The Well”, a massive spa resort with every sauna type imaginable – Finnish, Turkish, Japanese and more – but within the city the above are the highlights

    Flåm

    Tiny Flåm, nestled at the end of Aurlandsfjord, now boasts a memorable fjordside sauna experience – perfect after a day on the Flåm Railway or fjord cruises. Sauna culture here is about enjoying the spectacular nature soothingly.

    FjordSauna Flåm

    A floating sauna cabin moored in Flåm’s harbour, operated by a local company in partnership with “Norway’s Best” (Flåm’s tourism arm). This modern, raft-like sauna features electric heating and boasts huge windows overlooking the fjord. It accommodates up to 12 people and is available either as a private booking (exclusive use) or a drop-in session, where individuals or couples can join others. Sessions are typically 1.5 hours.

    The private group price is approximately NOK 2,990 for up to 12 people (roughly NOK 250 per person if the group is full), while shared tickets cost around NOK 445 per person. The price includes a small sit-on towel and use of the changing facilities. Between sauna rounds, you can jump straight into the fjord via a ladder or even through a hatch in the floor – an exhilarating fjord bath in all seasons.

    This sauna operates year-round and is a must-do for truly soaking in Flåm’s scenery – imagine sweating in 80°C heat, then plunging into an icy fjord surrounded by snow-capped mountains!

    The historic Fretheim Hotel in Flåm also has a small indoor sauna and outdoor hot tub as part of its spa for overnight guests, but the floating FjordSauna is the primary option for visitors.

    Fjord Sauna also operates in the nearby town of Aurland.

    Bergen

    Bergen’s rainy weather hasn’t stopped a hot sauna scene from emerging. In fact, the combination of a steaming sauna and a cold dip in the North Sea is also increasingly popular here. The city offers both cosy wood-fired saunas on the fjord and public facilities for winter swimmers.

    Heit Sauna

    Heit (“hot” in Norwegian) is a company operating wood-fired floating saunas in Bergen. They have two main sites: one at Marineholmen, near the city centre, and another at Laksevåg, across the harbour, plus a new unit at Måseskjæret. Each location has raft-mounted sauna cabins with capacity for ~8–12 people.

    You can book either a shared drop-in session (50 minutes or 1h50m) or rent a private sauna for your group. Prices for a shared sauna start from ~NOK 159 per person (50 minutes) or NOK 279 for ~2 hours.

    Private bookings, which offer exclusive use for up to 10 people, start at around NOK 590 for two people (short session). Larger groups pay more, but it’s still quite affordable (e.g., 1 hour and 50 minutes for 10 people was advertised at around NOK 1,990). The saunas are wood-burning (Finnish-style stoves) and maintained at a temperature of ~60–80 °C.

    There are basic changing facilities on the pier, an outdoor cold shower, and ladders for sea swimming. Staff are on hand, and swimming is at your own risk but encouraged year-round (water temperature ranges from 3 °C in winter to 18 °C in summer). Heit even hosts special events, such as sauna yoga and Aufguss (steam rituals with essential oils).

    Nordnes Sjøbad (Sea Pool & Sauna)

    A Bergen institution, Nordnes Sjøbad is a public seawater pool located by the city fjord, which opens for winter bathing a few days a week during the off-season. It features indoor changing rooms and a sauna on-site.

    From mid-October to spring, hardy locals come here to alternate between the heated saltwater pool, chilling dips in the fjord, and time in the co-ed sauna. It’s a communal experience rather than a private rental. Entrance fees are modest, ranging from NOK 70 to 110 for adults for winter swim and sauna sessions, and are often free for Bergen students and alumni on certain days.

    If you’re looking to experience the Norwegian “ice bathing” trend in Bergen, this is the place – imagine dark winter evenings, 4 °C water, and a steamy sauna full of cheerful bathers.

    Check the schedule as it’s open limited hours in winter (typically Thursday evenings and Sunday mornings). No pre-booking needed for drop-in – pay at the door.

    City Sauna Bergen

    City Sauna Bergen offers a distinctive wellness experience by combining the traditional Norwegian sauna with the serenity of Bergen’s waterways. Situated at Damsgårdsveien 59, this floating sauna provides guests with panoramic views of the city’s picturesque landscape while they enjoy the therapeutic warmth of the sauna.

    The sauna offers drop-in sessions at specific times throughout the week. Prices start at 150 NOK per person for a one-hour session. They also offer private sauna rentals, with bookings available for 1 to 2 hours and accommodating up to 12 people. Private rentals vary from 1,000 NOK up to 4,200 NOK, depending on the group size. For those looking to combine relaxation with a scenic boat ride, the sauna cruise offers a 2-hour journey through Bergen’s waterways, suitable for groups of varying sizes. Prices start at 3,000 NOK.

    Vestfjord Sauna

    A new addition just outside Bergen centre, Vestfjordsauna has opened an innovative sauna with a Himalayan salt wall in the suburb of Kjøkkelvik (15 minutes west of downtown). This land-based sauna house is situated directly on the shore, offering a serene wellness experience. The facility can be booked for 1.5-hour sessions; you can either reserve a spot in a shared session or book the entire sauna privately.

    The sauna accommodates approximately 8–10 people and features a changing area, as well as easy ladder access to the sea. Prices are around NOK 219 per adult for a session (with slight discounts to ~NOK 198 pp for groups). The salt-block wall inside not only creates a unique ambience but also releases minerals that proponents say benefit respiration and skin. It’s heated and ready upon your arrival, with opening hours from 06:00 to 23:00 daily, year-round.

    Additionally, some Bergen hotels have sauna facilities – for example, Hotel Norge and others have small rooftop or gym saunas for guests. But for visitors looking to rent or drop-in, the above are the top choices. If you’re adventurous, Bergen’s surrounding areas even have “wild” saunas like a wood-fired one by Lake Grimevatnet or the artistic floating sauna “Flabellina” on Osterøy, but these are outside the city proper

    Stavanger

    In Stavanger and its surroundings, sauna culture is on the rise – often taking advantage of the beautiful Rogaland coastline. Options range from floating saunas in the city’s bays to wood-fired fjord saunas near famous landmarks.

    BookSauna Stavanger Saunas

    At Vaulen (a seaside park area in the city’s south), you’ll find a private floating sauna operated via BookSauna.no. It’s essentially a cosy, electrically heated sauna raft moored by the shore, with space for up to 8 people. The setting offers lovely views over Gandsfjorden and the surrounding mountains – a surprisingly tranquil nature escape within city limits. The sauna can only be rented privately, not per seat, but pricing is calculated per person: roughly NOK 225 per person for 1 hour, or NOK 300 per person for 2 hours, with a minimum charge equivalent to 4 people or more. You’ll have the floating cabin to yourselves – the stove will be hot on arrival, and free stand-up paddleboards are included to enhance the fun. Between sauna rounds, step off the raft for a bracing swim in the sea. Vaulen’s saunas operate year-round, whatever the weather (a winter snowstorm + sauna is an experience in itself!).

    Tenanger Floating Sauna

    Just outside Stavanger, in the harbour of Tananger, lies another wood-fired floating sauna affiliated with Hummeren Hotel. This sauna boat is moored at the hotel’s jetty and accommodates approximately 6–8 people (the hotel recommends 4 for optimal comfort) for 2-hour private sessions.

    The ambience is maritime – you enjoy views of the harbour basin and the North Sea coast. The sauna must be reserved in advance and comes with an attendant on-site for safety. There are no changing rooms on the raft itself, but hotel facilities, including changing rooms and showers, are available nearby for guests to use. After sweating in the “bådstue” (boat sauna), you can jump straight off the dock into the ocean, then warm up again inside – an invigorating cycle! The hotel can even serve drinks or food to complement your visit to the sauna.

    If you venture into the Ryfylke region just outside Stavanger, don’t miss the floating saunas at Preikestolen BaseCamp on Refsvatn Lake (a magical post-hike treat after visiting Pulpit Rock), or the farm sauna at Dirdal with fjord views. Preikestolen’s sauna rafts are wood-fired and accommodate ~6 people; prices were around NOK 500 for 90 minutes for a private group – a unique way to unwind in the wilderness. Additionally, some local gyms and spas in Stavanger, such as the SPA at Clarion Hotel or the Stavanger Swim Hall, offer traditional electric saunas; however, these are not available for private rental. The true Norwegian way is to go for one of the floating or wood-fired options above for an unforgettable all-season experience.

    Geiranger

    Geiranger is famed for its breathtaking fjord – and what better way to enjoy it than from a warm sauna? While Geiranger is a small village, it offers a luxurious spa experience at its historic hotel, along with occasional pop-up sauna events by the fjord. The top recommendation here is:

    Hotel Union Geiranger Spa

    This four-star hotel overlooking Geirangerfjord houses a comprehensive spa facility. While primarily for hotel guests, external visitors are welcome with a Day Spa pass, subject to availability (please call ahead).

    The spa area includes a large Finnish sauna with fjord views, a steam room, indoor and outdoor pools, a 42 °C Japanese hot bath, foot baths, and experience showers. It’s an indulgent, relaxing space – think dim lighting, a fireplace lounge, refreshments and that spectacular scenery outside. A Day Spa entry (10:00–19:00 access) costs NOK 800 for outside guests and includes a towel and robe, access to spa facilities, and a light breakfast buffet in the morning. An evening-only entry (16:00–19:00) is a bit cheaper (~NOK 500). If you book a spa treatment, such as a massage, the entry fee is waived. Once inside, you can sweat in the sauna, then cool off in the outdoor infinity pool or take a quick cold shower – or for the bold, step outside and breathe in the crisp fjord air on the terrace.

    Unlike the other locales, Geiranger currently doesn’t have dedicated public or floating saunas for rent beyond the Union Spa. Occasionally, cruise ships or tour groups set up a mobile sauna by the fjord for special events, but these are not regular occurrences. If you’re staying in self-catering cabins around Geiranger, some may have private saunas as well – for example, many of the Fjordsenter cabins include an electric sauna in the unit.)

    Ålesund

    Ålesund, with its Art Nouveau charm and Atlantic setting, now features one of Norway’s coolest new sauna attractions: SVAI Sauna, a floating sauna right in the heart of town. Locals and tourists alike are using it to combine wellness with the city’s maritime heritage.

    SVAI Sauna

    Opened in recent years, SVAI is a floating sauna house moored in central Ålesund (at Molja, near the iconic Brosundet canal). It’s designed to resemble the traditional fish-drying racks of the region, blending into the harbour landscape. SVAI’s sauna can accommodate up to 12 people and is available for private 2-hour bookings or individual drop-in tickets.

    It’s fully equipped with a changing room, cold shower, sound system, and huge windows for the “best view in town” – think panoramic outlooks to the sea and Ålesund’s mountain backdrop while you steam.

    Prices are straightforward: Drop-in sessions cost NOK 250 per person and typically last ~1 hour, while renting the entire sauna privately costs NOK 2,500 for 2 hours. Whether you go alone or with friends, you can alternate between the sauna’s intense heat and plunging straight into the Atlantic – a ladder on the side lets you climb back up easily. SVAI operates all year, 7 days a week (10:00–22:00), allowing you to enjoy a midnight sun or winter night session, complete with stars or the Northern Lights above. The atmosphere is social but relaxed – don’t be surprised if friendly locals strike up conversation during drop-in hours. Booking: via svaisauna.no (their official site) or through the local tourism office. It’s highly recommended to reserve in advance, especially during the summer when it’s particularly popular.

    Hotel Brosundet Sauna

    For a luxury twist, Hotel Brosundet – a design hotel on the canal – offers a petite indoor sauna for its guests and has even placed an exclusive seaside barrel sauna for private guest use along the water (check with the hotel for availability). While not open to the general public for booking, hotel guests can enjoy a boutique sauna experience followed by a dip in the cold seawater from their private ladder. If you’re staying there, it’s worth inquiring.

    If you venture slightly outside Ålesund, consider a trip to the island of Ellingsøya where some locals host a wood-fired sauna (check AirBnB Experiences), or drive to Molde (2 hours away) to see Nausta, an architect-designed floating sauna on the Molde fjord. But within Ålesund, SVAI is the star.

    Tromsø

    In the Arctic city of Tromsø, sauna bathing has become a beloved way to warm up and socialise, especially under the Northern Lights or Midnight Sun. Pust (meaning “Breath”) is the flagship sauna facility here, attracting international visitors year-round. Additionally, some hotels and locals offer unique sauna experiences.

    Pust

    Pust is a floating sauna platform right in Tromsø’s harbour. It features a distinctive wooden structure inspired by traditional fish racks, and boasts two sauna rooms: the “Original” sauna (seating 12, with a quiet atmosphere) and the larger “Lavvo” sauna (seating 16, with a Lavvu tent-inspired shape). Both are electrically heated and feature panoramic windows that face the Arctic Cathedral and fjord.

    Drop-in hourly sessions (public, mixed-gender) start at approximately NOK 120 per person and are highly affordable for a unique Arctic sauna and sea dip experience! Private Sauna bookings (exclusive use for your group) are available from NOK 3,000 per session. They also host guided “Sauna Rituals” with aromatherapy (approximately NOK 400 per person) and a 2-hour “Ice Bath like a Viking” package, where a sauna master leads you through hot-cold cycles, scrubs, and an ice plunge, for NOK 1,250

    Dunking into the Arctic Ocean here is not for the faint of heart – the water can be 4 °C or colder – but it’s incredibly refreshing and brag-worthy! Pust even offers student discounts and memberships for locals. Walk-ups are possible for drop-in sessions if there’s space available, but booking ahead is recommended, especially during the winter high season.

    Tromsø’s locals are creative – you might find pop-up mobile saunas towed to beaches like Telegrafbukta on sunny days, or even a wood-fired sauna boat occasionally docked for events.

    One consistent option is the Aurora Spa at Scandic Ishavshotel, which features a rooftop sauna and outdoor Jacuzzi overlooking the harbour, available to hotel guests or for a paid entry fee.

    The With Hotel also notably has a rooftop sauna with a panoramic window – some TripAdvisor reviews urge “don’t miss the sauna!” for its view of snowy mountains. These hotel saunas offer a more private and warm-up session after your outdoor adventures. While not generally rentable to outside visitors, staying overnight is a great bonus.

    Lastly, if you’re heading out of town on excursions, keep an eye out for tour companies that include a Sami tent sauna or a lakeside sauna (for example, some whale-watching tours offer a post-trip sauna in the fjords). In Tromsø, few things beat jumping into icy water under the green glow of the Northern Lights, then ducking into a hot sauna – a true Arctic bliss!

    Svolvær

    Svolvær in the Lofoten Islands offers sauna experiences with a spectacular backdrop of sea, mountains, and fishing cabins. Here you can enjoy both upscale private spa time and rustic floating sauna fun, all year round.

    Lofoten Sauna

    Lofoten’s first floating sauna has become a hit. Moored just off Svinøya (a short walk from Svolvær centre), the sauna is a wood-fired floating house with panoramic views of Svolvær harbour and the iconic “Svolværgeita” peak. It’s equipped with separate men’s and women’s changing rooms and an outdoor shower (hot/cold water) on the deck. Capacity is 12 people for public drop-in sessions and up to 20 people for private group bookings. You can drop in for a 1-hour session at NOK 195 per person, or rent the whole sauna for 2 hours at 3,000 NOK.

    The wood stove will be lit and ready by 09:00 each day, and sessions run into the evening (last booking around 21:00). Between rounds, take a fearless leap into the North Atlantic – they have ladders for easy in-and-out. The contrast of 80–90 °C sauna heat with the Arctic sea (which might be 4–14 °C depending on season) is as invigorating as it sounds! This floating sauna is open all year, so you can try it under the Midnight Sun or as snow falls on the fjord.

    Lyst Lofoten Sauna

    Lyst Lofoten Sauna is located in Svolvær, in the Lofoten archipelago of Norway. It offers a distinctive wellness experience by combining the traditions of sauna bathing with the dramatic natural surroundings of northern Norway. The sauna is built on a floating jetty directly in front of Thon Hotel Svolvær, offering stunning views of the Vestfjord, the entrance to Svolvær harbour, and the surrounding mountain ranges.

    The facility includes two separate saunas named “Fløya” and “Blåtind”, each designed to maximise the scenic experience through large windows. There are also separate men’s and women’s changing rooms, equipped with hot water showers and toilets. Visitors can access the sea directly from the jetty via a ladder, or take a more adventurous plunge from the diving board located on the roof of the sauna. Non-members pay 250 NOK, and the saunas are open to the public only. You can request to book the sauna privately by sending an email.

    Skårungen Resort Sauna

    Skårungen is a seaside resort and campground located a few kilometres from Svolvær, offering a private outdoor hot tub and sauna pier that is hugely popular. The spa area, completely renovated in 2024, is situated at the end of a dock with front-row views of the Vestfjord and the towering Vågekallen mountain. It consists of a wood-fired hot tub (8–10 people) and an adjacent wood-fired sauna (10–12 people). When you book, you get the entire spa area exclusively – no sharing with strangers.

    The standard rental is 1.5 hours, priced at NOK 399 per person for both sauna + hot tub use. If you only want to use the sauna (and not the tub), the price is NOK 250 per person. (They also offer a shorter late-night 1-hour slot at NOK 299 pp.) The facility features a private changing room with a shower on the pier, as well as additional restrooms located in the main building nearby. Skårungen’s spa is particularly magical in the evenings – you can relax in the steaming hot tub under the Arctic sky, then dash into the cold sea (there’s a ladder for quick dips) and hop into the sauna to warm up. They even deliver drinks to the pier on request (champagne under the midnight sun, anyone?).

    Just outside Svolvær, if you visit the Hov Gård horse farm in Gimsøy, they offer a beachfront “Hov Sauna” where you can watch Icelandic horses trot by as you enjoy your sauna (and possibly catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights). And in Nusfjord fishing village (about 1.5 hours from Svolvær), the luxury resort has a seaside sauna and hot tub for guests.

    But within the Svolvær area, the two above (the floating sauna and Skårungen) cover both ends of the spectrum – one a social drop-in spot amid the rorbuer (fishing cabins), the other an intimate spa treat. No matter which you choose, a Lofoten sauna + sea dip will be a highlight of your trip – a perfect fusion of wellness and wilderness in the Arctic environment.

    Sauna Etiquette

    I think you should read the website of the specific sauna first, as sauna etiquette will vary a little from company to company. But, in general, here are some guidelines to taking a sauna in Norway. 

    1. Nudity is Normal (and Expected)
    In Norway, nudity in saunas is normal. Most locals go in starkers — no swimmers, no towel wrapped around you (except to sit on). It’s not sexual, it’s just natural. That said, in mixed-gender saunas or public ones, it’s often optional — so check the rules or follow the lead of others.

    Tip: Always bring a towel to sit on for hygiene reasons. No one wants to sit in someone else’s sweat.

    Some saunas will request that you wrap a towel around yourself. They prefer that to swimmers because swimmers often carry more bacteria. 

    2. Shower Beforehand
    This is non-negotiable. Please wash yourself before entering the sauna. It’s about respect for others and keeping the space clean. In most public saunas, signs will even remind you.

    3. Keep it Quiet
    Norwegian saunas are places for calm and quiet, not for having a loud chat. Chatting is fine if it’s low-key, but avoid shouting, swearing, or carrying on. If you’re with mates, tone it down and enjoy the serenity.

    4. Respect the Heat Ritual
    Often, there’s a designated person (especially in public saunas) who handles the aufguss — the practice of pouring water over hot stones to generate steam. Please don’t do it yourself unless it’s clearly okay. Ask if unsure.

    Also, don’t open the door too often — it lets the heat out and annoys everyone.

    5. Embrace the Cold Plunge
    After heating up, it’s common to cool down with a dip in the ocean, a cold shower, or rolling in the snow (yes, really). It might be shocking at first, but it’s all part of the experience — and you’ll feel amazing after.

    6. Time Your Stay
    A typical round is about 10–15 minutes. You can do several rounds with breaks in between to cool off and rehydrate. Listen to your body — no need to tough it out to impress anyone.

    7. Clean Up After Yourself
    Could you bring out your towel, water bottle, and any other items you brought? If it’s a self-service sauna (quite common in Norway), you might also need to tidy up or sweep out the space for the following user.

    8. Don’t Be a Stickybeak
    Norwegians value privacy and personal space, even in social settings such as saunas. Don’t stare, don’t pry, and don’t force conversation. A nod or quiet smile goes a long way.

    Sweden's Eurovision Entry

    A big reason I wanted to put this article together is because I fell in love with Norway’s Eurovision entry this year. It’s called “Bara Bada Bastu” – which basically means “just take a sauna”.

    Watch below!

    Resources

    All information has been compiled from official tourist boards and sauna operators’ websites, with pricing and details confirmed as of 2025. Be sure to check the provided booking links and sources for the most up-to-date schedules and prices before planning your sauna experience.

    All images are taken from the sauna operator’s websites and are not my own. 

    Enjoy your Norwegian sauna adventure – or as the Norwegians say, god badstue! 

  • The Fascinating History of Whaling & Sealing in Norway

    The Fascinating History of Whaling & Sealing

    The fascinating history of whaling and sealing in Norway is worth reading about before you come to this part of the world. I know that many would not associate whaling and sealing with being fascinating, considering the stigma associated with them today. However, I think it’s essential to understand how life in Norway was 200 years ago and why it was much more of a necessity than it is today. I’ve conducted a thorough examination of the history of whaling and sealing in Norway, aiming to understand the historical connections to this industry and its impact on modern Norway.

    I didn’t realise how long this article would be, so apologies for the lengthy text. But trust me, as you get reading, you’ll understand why I couldn’t cut it down. 

    In this article...

    Early Origins of Whaling & Sealing

    Whales and seals have been part of Norwegian coastal life since ancient times. Norse communities in the Viking Age occasionally harvested small whales that ventured near shore or drove whole pods (e.g. pilot whales) into fjords. Norse sagas mention disputes over stranded whale carcasses, suggesting that a beached whale was a prized windfall, though no large-scale whaling industry existed in medieval Norway. Early Norwegians did practice a form of spear-drift whaling: hunters in open boats would harpoon a whale with a marked spear and later claim the carcass when it washed ashore. This subsistence approach, along with opportunistic scavenging of drift whales, characterised the early relationship between Norwegians and whales.

    Seals were another important resource for coastal and Arctic peoples. In the far north, Indigenous groups and later Norwegian settlers hunted seals for meat, blubber, and hides using simple tools.

    Hunting in Svalbard

    Hunting Arctic animals around Svalbard became highly competitive throughout the 16th and 17th centuries, with Russians, Germans, Norwegians, Danes, and the Dutch all competing for whales, seals, Arctic foxes, and polar bears.

    German crews began hunting seals on the drifting pack ice between Greenland and Svalbard. In the 1700s, Norwegians and Danes took over this sealing ground from the Germans. Unlike whaling, sealing required less capital – a small sailing ship and hardy crew could set out each spring to the ice floes to club or shoot seals and return with valuable pelts and oil. These early sealing expeditions were perilous; crews braved treacherous ice and arctic storms, as tragically illustrated by the Svenskehuset Tragedy of 1872–73, when seventeen Norwegian sealers overwintering in Svalbard perished.

    Trade Competition

    In the 17th century, the rich Arctic seas around Svalbard drew whalers from across Europe. Dutch, English, and Basque whaling fleets established seasonal camps on the archipelago. These whalers targeted the bountiful Greenland right and bowhead whales, rendering their blubber into oil on primitive shore-based tryworks (boiling stations) and collecting baleen “whalebone” for use in corsets and buggy whips. Competition was fierce: nations vied for dominance over the whaling grounds, even coming into naval skirmishes in the icy bays. By the late 1600s, Svalbard’s bays – once teeming with whales – saw drastic declines from over-harvesting. Whaling around Svalbard declined in the 18th century as whale populations there were depleted, and interest from the Dutch and British shifted or waned.

    Nevertheless, the legacy of this era remains in place names like Smeerenburg (“Blubber Town”), a Dutch-built whaling station on Svalbard’s Amsterdam Island that once bustled with try-pots and whalers. These early episodes set the stage: Norwegians inherited a tradition of deriving sustenance and wealth from marine mammals, even if other nations initially dominated large-scale operations. By the end of the 18th century, Norway’s direct role in whaling was still limited. Still, a generation of Norwegian seafarers and entrepreneurs had taken note of the profits to be made from the “red gold” of whale and seal oil.

    The Birth of Modern Whaling

    In the 1800s, Norway rose to prominence by revolutionising whaling technology. The turning point came with Svend Foyn (pictured), a Norwegian sealer-turned-innovator often referred to as the father of modern whaling. Foyn was born in Tønsberg in 1809 and had spent years in the Arctic sealing trade, which gave him the experience to tackle the problem of hunting larger whale species. At that time, traditional methods could only reliably catch slow-moving whales, such as right whales, or rely on chance strandings. Foyn recognised that to hunt the swift, powerful rorquals (such as blue, fin, and sei whales) which frequent Norway’s coast, a faster ship and a deadlier weapon were needed.

    After studying others’ experiments (American whalers had trialled a rocket harpoon in the 1860s without commercial success), Foyn devised a practical solution. In 1864, he outfitted a small steam-powered vessel and, after several trials, patented an explosive-tipped harpoon cannon in 1870—a device that would change whaling forever. His harpoon was fired from a mounted cannon; when the barbed head struck a whale, a grenade charge detonated inside, ensuring a swift kill or lethal injury. This innovation, coupled with faster steam catchers, suddenly made it feasible to chase and take down the previously untouchable big whales of the North Atlantic.

    Foyn launched Norway’s first modern whaling company in the 1860s out of Finnmark. Early attempts were modest – his inaugural voyage in 1864 yielded only a few whales – but by the 1870s Foyn’s methods proved extraordinarily effective. He established a shore station at Vadsø and negotiated a monopoly license from the Norwegian government (1873–1883) to keep competitors at bay while he refined the business. Foyn’s crews hunted primarily rorquals, towing the floating carcasses back to shore for processing. Nearly every part of the whale was utilised: blubber was rendered into oil (for soap, lamp fuel, and later margarine production), bones and meat scraps were boiled down into guano fertiliser, and baleen found ready markets in industry.

    One thing Foyn struggled to do was create a local appetite for whale meat – 19th-century Norwegians were not keen on eating whale, so the flesh was mostly discarded or turned into animal feed. Nonetheless, profits from oil and baleen were rich. Soon, other Norwegians sought to join in the action. Even while Foyn still held his monopoly in the 1870s, unofficial whaling stations popped up (one of the first competing companies was founded in Sandefjord, in southern Norway). When Foyn’s exclusive rights expired, a veritable whaling rush ensued. By the late 1880s, dozens of Norwegian whaling ships were prowling coastal waters, and catches skyrocketed – in just two years (1885–1886), over a thousand fin whales and nearly 150 blue whales were taken off Norway’s coast. This uncontrolled harvest began depleting local whale stocks, and coastal fishing communities began to notice changes.

    Conflicts soon arose between traditional fishermen and the new whaling industry. Northern fishermen, in particular, blamed whaling for poor fish catches – they believed the removal of whales (which some fishermen thought helped herd herring toward the coast) was one cause of dwindling fisheries. A notable incident was the Mehamn uprising, in which fishermen fought back against the whalers and destroyed the whaling stations. Whether or not the science behind this claim was sound, the economic rivalry was real. In the 1880s, Norwegian lawmakers, pressured by hundreds of petitioning fishermen, imposed the world’s first whaling restrictions to protect regional interests.

    Fun fact – the coat of arms of Sandefjord in Norway represents a whaler. 

    Sealing in the 1800s

    While whaling boomed, sealing continued to be an essential seasonal pursuit for Norwegians, particularly those from northern ports such as Tromsø. Throughout the 1800s, sealing fleets would depart every spring for the ice fields of the West Ice (off Greenland) and the East Ice (in the Barents Sea and White Sea). These sealers, often using sturdy sailing schooners, hunted harp seals and hooded seals for their pelts and oil. By the late 19th century, Tromsø had overtaken Hammerfest as the main base for Norwegian Arctic hunters, and an average of 20–30 Norwegian sealing ships sailed north each year.

    The sealing life was brutal and adventurous, immortalised in folk tales and the annals of polar exploration. (In fact, many famed Norwegian Arctic explorers – such as Otto Sverdrup and others – cut their teeth as sealing or whaling captains before embarking on expeditions.) The risks were enormous: ice could crush a ship or trap it for months.

    By 1900, both whaling and sealing had evolved from subsistence activities into significant commercial industries in Norway – one driven by technological innovation and industrial profit, the other a more traditional hunt still crucial to the livelihoods of northern communities. Both would soon face new pressures and opportunities as Norway entered the 20th century.

    Early Conservation Laws, Expansion, Exploitation & Regulation (1904)

    At the beginning of the 20th century, the Norwegian government decided to ban whaling in northern Norway for ten years, which ended in 1914. However, this didn’t stop the commercial whaling business. Instead, it encouraged Norwegian whalers to look abroad.

    In 1904, a group of Norwegians led by Captain C.A. Larsen established the first modern whaling station in the Antarctic – at Grytviken on South Georgia – under a British lease. This marked the start of Antarctic whaling, a frontier which Norwegians would dominate for decades. Soon, wholly Norwegian companies followed: between 1905 and 1907, several new firms, backed by investors from Sandefjord and Larvik, began hunting in the Southern Ocean. They were drawn by reports of unimaginably vast whale populations in the Antarctic seas and the potential to reap huge profits in whale oil. By the 1920s and 1930s, Norway was the world’s preeminent whaling nation. Norwegian factory ships and catcher fleets roamed from the South Atlantic to the Pacific. During this golden age of commercial whaling, Norway’s harvests were enormous – by the mid-1930s, Norwegian operations accounted for over half of all whales killed worldwide.

    The wealth from whaling helped industrialise and modernise parts of Norway; for instance, the town of Sandefjord flourished as a hub of the whaling industry, home to major companies and a harbour full of towering factory ships. This period also fostered national pride – Norwegian expeditions planted the flag on Antarctic soil, claiming Bouvet Island (1927) and Queen Maud Land (1939), partly to secure whaling rights in those areas. Whaling and polar exploration went hand in hand as Norway asserted itself on the world stage.

     

    Sealing in the early 20th century

    Sealing also hit its peak during this time. Norwegian sealers in the early 1900s were harvesting astonishing numbers of seals in the Arctic ice packs. Historical records indicate that around 1900, annual catches in the Greenland Sea (West Ice) were on the order of 120,000 seals, rising to 350,000 seals per year by the 1920s at the height of the industry. Norway and Russia together accounted for the bulk of this take. The economic depression of the 1930s, followed by wartime disruptions, reduced demand for seal products, and seal populations began to decline, prompting some restrictions. In the mid-20th century, seal stocks – especially hooded seals – declined significantly, crashing from an estimated one million animals in the 1950s to approximately 100,000 by the 1980s. This decline was attributed to overhunting and possibly environmental changes, and it foreshadowed the scrutiny the sealing industry would face in the future. By the 1940s and 1950s, sealing was still promoted by the Norwegian government, both for economic output and as a means to maintain settlement and activity in the far north. However, the hunt was increasingly regulated under quota systems to prevent the total collapse of seal herds. Technological change also arrived: older sail-powered seal ships gave way to diesel-powered vessels, such as the robust MS Havsel, and hunters began using rifles more than clubs as their primary weapons, both for efficiency and – eventually – to address animal welfare concerns.

    Changes to Attitudes in Whaling

    In the latter half of the 20th century, whaling and sealing in Norway came under growing pressure from changing public attitudes and international regulations. By the 1970s, global awareness of environmental issues and animal welfare had surged. Whales, in particular, went from being seen purely as commodities to being appreciated as intelligent, even sentient creatures deserving protection. The image of the whaler shifted in the public eye worldwide – from intrepid seaman to, increasingly, a man killing endangered giants of the sea. Environmental groups like Greenpeace and the World Wildlife Fund led high-profile anti-whaling campaigns. Norwegian whaling, which by the 1970s was much reduced in scope, nonetheless became a target of protest. Activists staged dramatic direct actions, including attempts to obstruct whaling ships at sea. In one notorious incident in the 1980s, the radical group Sea Shepherd sabotaged Norwegian whaling vessels in harbor. This international outcry culminated in 1982 when the International Whaling Commission voted for a global moratorium on commercial whaling, which took effect in 1986. Under this IWC moratorium, all commercial whaling was to cease, though exceptions existed for scientific research hunts and indigenous subsistence whaling.

     

    Norway’s response to the whaling moratorium was complex. On the one hand, the Norwegian government agreed to pause commercial whaling in 1986, aligning with the IWC’s decision temporarily. On the other hand, Norway lodged a formal objection to the moratorium – a legal option that allowed it to resume whaling later without technically violating international law. Norwegian scientists argued that particular species, especially the North Atlantic minke whale, were not endangered and could be harvested sustainably. After conducting some years of research whaling (catches taken under the guise of science), Norway officially resumed limited commercial whaling in 1993, becoming the only country in the world to do so in defiance of the IWC ban (Japan and Iceland, by contrast, pursued “scientific” whaling before later following Norway’s lead back into open commercial whaling). Norwegian officials framed this as a matter of principle: a sovereign right to use marine resources in Norwegian waters sustainably.

    Whale Quotas & Modern Hunting

    Since the 1990s, Norway has set its own quotas for minke whale hunts, using IWC scientific assessments as a guideline but not being bound by IWC zero-catch rules. Typically a few hundred minkes are harvested by Norway each year by a small fleet of coastal whaling boats. The scale is a tiny fraction of mid-century whaling, yet it remains fiercely debated. Animal welfare advocates highlight that modern whale hunts, though improved with better harpoons, can still result in whales suffering if not killed instantly (by some estimates, a significant minority of whales do not die immediately from the first shot). Norwegian whalers and authorities counter that their methods are as humane as any slaughterhouse and that they continually research improvements in killing technology (for instance, developing more effective grenades for the harpoon).

    Within Norway, whaling occupies a complicated place in society. In certain coastal districts – notably in the Vestlandet and Nordland regions – small whaling communities see it as a proud tradition and a source of supplementary income. They stress that whaling has been part of Norwegian life “since Viking times,” forming a thread of continuity with ancestors who lived off the sea. Many Norwegians, even outside these communities, view the minke whale hunt as no more controversial than the slaughter of deer or livestock, emphasising that minke populations are healthy and that the meat is a traditional food. The Norwegian government often echoes these cultural and scientific justifications: it portrays Norway’s whaling as a sustainable use of a natural resource and as integral to the heritage of a seafaring nation. At the same time, public interest in eating whale meat has diminished over the decades.

    Whale meat was never a staple across all of Norway, and younger generations especially have less of an appetite for it. Demand has declined to the point that, in recent years, Norwegian whalers often struggle to sell all their catch. By the 2020s, only a handful of vessels, as few as eight or ten boats, take part in the annual whale hunt.

    Government-set quotas have been relatively high (around 900–1,200 minkes per year in the late 2010s and early 2020s), but actual catches are usually well below these ceilings due to low participation and market limitations. For example, in 2023 Norway allowed up to 1,000 minkes to be caught, but only about 507 were actually taken, with just nine boats active that season. This trend highlights that Norwegian commercial whaling today is a niche, small-scale industry – one sustained partly by government support and a sense of cultural stubbornness, even as economics alone might have led to its demise. Internationally, Norway faces constant criticism for continuing whaling. Anti-whaling NGOs argue that Norway’s hunt is unnecessary (the country is wealthy and food-secure without whale meat) and unethical, given the special status of whales as intelligent, migratory animals.

    The Decline of Sealing

    Sealing in Norway experienced a more dramatic decline in the late 20th century. What had once been a significant industry involving hundreds of ships and thousands of men virtually collapsed. Two main factors drove this: animal welfare activism and market economics. By the 1960s and 70s, graphic images of white-furred seal pups being clubbed on blood-stained ice floes ignited public horror around the world. Norway’s sealers were often portrayed in the media as villains, much as whalers were. This pressure yielded results.

    In 1983, the European Economic Community (precursor to the EU) banned the import of young harp seal pelts, known as the “whitecoat” pelts, thereby removing a significant market for the Canadian and Norwegian seal hunts. The demand for seal fur and oil continued to shrink thereafter. By 2009, the EU instituted a near-total ban on all commercial seal products (with exceptions only for indigenous hunts), a decision Norway and Canada unsuccessfully challenged at the World Trade Organisation. As a consequence, Norwegian sealing voyages became unprofitable. The Norwegian government has provided subsidies for some years to keep a token hunt alive – partly to support coastal communities and maintain traditional skills. But even subsidies could not fully compensate for collapsing demand. By the 1990s and 2000s, the number of active sealing vessels dwindled to only one or two.

    By the 2010s, Norway’s seal hunt had essentially reached an endpoint. A BBC report in 2017 chronicled how the MS Havsel, one of Norway’s last sealing ships, undertook what was billed as the “final” commercial sealing expedition to the Greenland ice floes (click here to read the article). The voyage was documented in a film, Sealers – One Last Hunt, described as an unapologetic tribute to an industry that, in its heyday a century earlier, sent over 200 vessels from Norway’s ports each spring. The documentary and local commentators lamented the end of an era, noting that the sealers and their ships had “shaped the economy of coastal Norway” in the north for generations.

    In northern towns like Tromsø, older residents still call the significance of the “selfangst” (seal catch)– it was a source of income, adventure, and communal identity. But times have changed. As one of the film’s producers observed, “People today buy meat in plastic packages and don’t want to see how animals are killed… Seal hunting is an old culture and tradition… better to eat seal than farmed chicken,” she argued, highlighting a view that seal meat is a local, natural food resource. Yet, economic reality won out. The Norwegian government eventually withdrew financial support, and without subsidies, sealing simply could not continue at any viable scale. By the late 2010s, virtually no Norwegian ships were engaged in seal hunting for commercial purposes. The practice that remains is minimal: a few coastal seal hunts of much smaller scope (e.g. controlled culls of coastal seals that impact fisheries, or limited hunts around Svalbard) and the continued indigenous sealing by Inuit in Greenland (which is part of the Kingdom of Denmark, not Norway).

    Whaling in Norway Today

    The near disappearance of sealing and the decline of whaling in Norway reflect broader societal shifts. Norwegians today live in an affluent, modern society far removed from the hardscrabble coastal villages of old. However, the legacies of these industries continue to shape culture and policy in subtler ways. For instance, Norway remains a steadfast voice for the principle of sustainable use of marine resources. In international forums (whether it be the IWC or the North Atlantic Marine Mammal Commission, which Norway helped establish in 1992), Norway consistently argues that scientifically managed whaling and sealing are legitimate. This outlook is rooted in Norway’s history and experience: Norwegians recall that for centuries, the bounty of the sea, from cod to whales and seals, sustained their nation and fueled their economy. Thus, even as few Norwegians today depend on whaling or sealing, there is a lingering national sentiment that outsiders should not dictate how Norway manages its marine wildlife.

    Polls often show a majority of Norwegians either support continued whaling or are indifferent, seeing it as a small-scale activity that does not threaten whale populations. Nevertheless, the cultural importance of whaling and sealing is visibly commemorated: Norway has multiple museums dedicated to whaling, such as the Sandefjord Whaling Museum, and exhibitions in Svalbard, and monuments stand in towns like Tromsø and Tønsberg honouring the whalemen and sealers of years past. These signify a respect for the toughness and enterprise of those workers, even as the practices themselves have largely faded.

    Eating Whale in Norway

    Some Norwegian grocery stores do carry whale meat (generally lean dark-red minke whale steaks), and older generations still prepare traditional dishes like hvalbiff (whale beef). Some whale is available in fish markets in Bergen or Tromsø, but it is typically there for tourists more than for locals. However, consumption is limited, and much of the whale catch now ends up exported to Japan – over a third of Norway’s whale meat is sold to Japan, since most other markets are closed or non-existent. This undermines the argument for feeding Norwegians; it makes the industry appear more like commercial opportunism. In one recent public debate in Lofoten, titled pointedly “Is whaling dead?”, even opponents conceded that outright bans are unlikely; instead, discussions focused on how to better regulate the industry and perhaps find new, ethical business models for coastal communities.

    Sealing in Norway Today

    Sealing’s contemporary relevance is more symbolic. The commercial industry is, for all intents and purposes, extinct in Norway. However, Norway still allows limited seal hunts in certain contexts. For example, each year a small quota of harbour seals and grey seals is set for Norwegian coastal waters, primarily to prevent those seal populations from increasing and impacting local fisheries (these are managed hunts often conducted by local fishermen under permit).

    In the Arctic, Norway also continues to set quotas for harp and hooded seals in the West Ice and East Ice zones, even though in many recent years, zero Norwegian vessels actually take part. It’s a bit of a formality – the infrastructure and manpower for large seal expeditions are gone. One might see it as Norway keeping the regulatory framework alive, perhaps in case markets or needs change in the future. Meanwhile, Indigenous sealing (in Greenland and arctic Canada) still goes on and Norway differentiates itself from that; Norwegian spokespeople at times underline that their objection is to commercial sealing bans, not subsistence hunting by Arctic peoples, which they agree should be respected. Nonetheless, Norway’s alignment with Canada in defending sealing internationally shows a lingering solidarity with the idea of seal hunting as a legitimate activity.

    Eating Seal in Norway

    I’ve only seen seal on the menu in two places – Tromsø and Longyearbyen. I tried it in Longyearbyen and wasn’t a fan at all. Still, it’s no longer commonly found on menus and is not something you’ll typically come across. 

    Seal oil is found a lot in fish markets, especially in Bergen. Chinese tourists in particular buy a lot of seal oil when they visit. 

    Summing up Whaling & Sealing in Norway

    In Norwegian culture, the historical significance of sealing and whaling has left lasting traces. Songs, literature, and local museums preserve the memory of the polar heroes who were whalers and sealers. For instance, in many northern fishing villages, one can find the graves of men lost at sea on seal hunts and monuments honouring them. The ethos of those industries – courage, hardship, and self-reliance – has blended into

    Today’s Norwegians primarily see whales and seals as part of their natural environment to appreciate – it’s not uncommon to find Norwegians conflicted, proud that their country stands up for its traditions, yet they might have never eaten whale or seal meat and may feel compassion for these animals. This nuanced perspective is part of what makes the issue so persistent.

    In summary, the history of whaling and sealing in Norway is a journey from subsistence to industry to cultural flashpoint. What began as age-old coastal practices evolved into substantial industries by the early 20th century, significantly contributing to Norway’s economy, communities, and international presence. Norwegian technological innovations changed global whaling forever, and Norwegian ships once dominated the Antarctic seas in search of leviathans. In the Arctic ice, generations of seal hunters forged a rugged living that became the stuff of legend. Over time, the overuse of resources led to decline, and the evolving human values brought condemnation. By the 1980s, these hunts had become as much about politics and identity as about economics. Entering the 21st century, Norway finds itself holding on to the last vestiges of a controversial past.

    The influence of whaling and sealing today is thus less about direct economic impact (which is minimal) and more about shaping Norway’s policies and self-image. They force Norwegians to reckon with questions: How do we balance tradition against modern ethics? How do we honour our history yet adapt to current realities? In grappling with these questions, Norway’s experience with whaling and sealing offers a microcosm of the broader tension between cultural heritage and conservation in the modern world. It demonstrates that the echoes of historical practices can ring loud in present-day debates, and it ensures that the saga of Norway’s whalers and sealers – from the fjords of Tromsø to the pack ice of Greenland to the whaling stations of South Georgia – remains an enduring chapter in the story of Norway.

  • Bergen Events & Public Holidays 2025

    Bergen Events & Public Holidays 2025: What's Happening in Bergen This Year

    Nestled between majestic fjords and scenic mountains, Bergen is set to shine brighter than ever in 2025, offering a rich tapestry of cultural, musical, and artistic experiences. Whether you’re a local looking to explore your city’s vibrant pulse or a visitor eager to uncover its charm, this year promises something for everyone. From world-class music festivals and historic celebrations to cutting-edge art exhibitions and culinary showcases, Bergen’s calendar is brimming with events that will captivate and inspire. Join us as we dive into the must-see happenings and mark your schedule for an unforgettable year in Norway’s cultural capital.

    Be sure to check out my Bergen travel guide, where I put lots of information about what you can see and do in Bergen. 

    Table of Contents

    February 2025

    Bergen Seafood Festival (15 February)

    Norwegian seafood is at its best in winter, so it’s worth timing your winter trip with the Seafood Festival. Throughout the week, various restaurants will highlight unique seafood dishes. There are also special days where the chefs will give lessons on preparing and cooking different seafood dishes. However, the primary day is on the 15th of February, where stalls will spread around the fish market with excellent seafood for you to taste.

    You can view their website here: https://bergensjomatfestival.no/program-2024/

    March 2025

    6-9 March: Cine Latino

    The first film festival of the year is Cine Latino, which is a meeting place for Latin American culture. They show the best Latin American films but also have dances, food, music, panel discussions, and parties.

    View their website here: https://www.cinelatino.no/

    12-16 March: Borealis
    Borealis is a contemporary music festival with talks, films, literature and visual arts events. The goal of the festival is to discuss music and showcase modern forms of music.

    View their website here: https://www.borealisfestival.no/en/home/

    April 2025

    17, 18, 20, 21 April: Easter

    Easter is a big deal in Norway, and on these days expect shops and some restaurants to be closed. If you are driving or taking the train, it’s likely that it’ll be a little busier as many Norwegians use this time to head to the mountains and go skiing.

    26 April: Bergen City Marathon

    The Bergen City Marathon is in its 13th year and covers some of Bergen’s most famous places. I recommend getting a copy of the map and doing the trail (but in various stages) as you’ll pass by the best of Bergen.

    Practical information: the start and end line is at Bryggen, so it will be difficult to access Bryggen in the morning. Things will calm down after 2pm.

    View their website here: https://www.bergencitymarathon.no/en/

    May 2025

    1 May: Labour Day

    Norway has a public holiday on this day, so many shops will be closed. There will also be demonstrations and marches throughout the day.

    17 May: Constitution Day

    This is the most crucial day in Norway. If you are in Norway today, don’t bother planning any activities. Instead, go and watch the parades and enjoy the massive party.

    Practical information: The city will be packed until early afternoon, so don’t expect to be able to explore Bergen until then. It’s nearly impossible to get around!

    21 May – 4 June: Bergen International Festival

    The Bergen International Festival (called ‘Festspillene’ in Norwegian) is the largest arts festival in Bergen. There are over 150 events ranging from music to dance, opera to visual art, and so on. Many significant events sell out in advance, so book online early.

    23 – 31 May: Natt Jazz

    Natt Jazz is the longest jazz festival in Northern Europe. The main festival area is an old sardine factory, USF Verftet (United Sardines Factory), which now houses several concert venues, exhibitions, theatre, cinema, and artist studios.

    The music profile of Nattjazz spans a wide range of styles, primarily focusing on modern jazz. During Nattjazz, the borderlines between jazz, rock, ethnic, and electronica are explored and often erased. The children also get their share!

    26 May 2025: 7 Mountain Hike Day

    This is an essential event for many locals, and the city is extra busy on this day. It’s a seven-mountain fun run that covers approximately 30km. The route covers Bergen’s seven mountains. If it’s too much, you can do the three or five mountain hike instead.

    29 May: Ascension Day

    This is a public holiday in Norway.

    31 May 2025: Bergen to Voss Cycle Race

    This popular cycling race will draw many people to the city. The route is 170km, from Bergen to the ski resort in Voss.

    June 2025

    1-8 June: Bergen Gay Pride

    The “Rainbow Days” (Regnbuedagene) is a week-long festival that promotes gay pride in the city. It includes panel discussions and debates, concerts, art shows, and film screenings. The parade takes place on June 8th.

    8 June: Pentecost

    This is a public holiday in Norway

    9 June: Whit Monday

    This is a public holiday in Norway.

    11-14 June: Bergenfest

    Bergenfest is the largest music festival of the year, and the fortress area will be closed off during the festival. You can buy day tickets or festival passes if you wish to attend.

    July 2025

    30 July – 2 August: Beyond the Gates

    Beyond the Gates is Bergen’s metal music festival. The festival takes place across various locations in Bergen and draws fans from all over the world. During this time, expect to see a lot of metalheads walking around Bergen. There’s also different events on metal culture, including guided tours, art displays, and a tattoo festival.

    August 2025

    22-23 August: Feelings Festival

    Feelings Festival is Bergen’s newest music festival. This outdoor festival takes place at Bergenhus Fortress and has pop, hip-hop and EDM music. The fortress area will be closed during the festival.

    September 2025

    5-6 September: Bergen Food Festival

    This is a beloved event in the city, where farmers and businesses from the fjord region descend into Bergen to promote their products. You’ll find food stalls where you can buy local foods straight from the small business owner.

    At Festplassen you’ll find a marketplace of various foods including vegetables, fruits, verries, cheeses, meats and seafood.

    The festival also hosts the Norwegian Cider Festival at the ‘cider park’ (adjacent to Festplassen). You can try cider from around the country as well as other local beverages, including local beers, gins, and aquavit.

    Additionally, over 30 restaurants will adjust their menus to promote local ingredients.

    12-13 September: Bergen Beer Festival

    The Bergen Beer Festival is an excellent time to sample various microbreweries from across Norway. The Beer Festival is held at USF Verftet.

    October 2025

    15-23 October: Bergen International Film Festival

    The Bergen International Film Festival is one of Norway’s largest film festivals. The main focus are documentary films from around the world, but you can also catch fictional and short films here. Various cinemas are used around the city.

    November 2025

    Mid-November to the End of December: Gingerbread Village

    The World’s Largest Gingerbread Village (“Pepperkakebyen”) is built in Bergen for the period from mid-November until the end of December. It’s one of the most popular places to visit over the Christmas period.

    Mid-November: Lysfest

    The Festival of Lights (“Lysfest”) takes place around mid-November every year and it is the event where the Christmas tree is lit in Bergen. There’s also live music, entertainment, and a fireworks display.

    Mid-November – Mid December: Christmas Market

    The Christmas Market is held annually in Bergen every year from around mid-November until just before Christmas. Here you’ll find stalls to buy handicrafts and try local foods as well as typical Christmas foods. There are also some rides for kids.

    December 2025

    25 December: Christmas Day
    This is a public holiday in Norway.

    26 December: St. Stephens Day
    This is a public holiday in Norway.

  • Visiting the Viking Museum at Borg in Lofoten

    Visiting the Viking Museum at Borg

    The Borg Viking Museum is one of the most fascinating museums about the Viking Age. It brings the Viking Age to life through archaeological finds, immersive experiences, and historic reconstructions. Nestled in the dramatic Lofoten Islands region, the museum is a highlight of any road trip through Lofoten.

    This museum isn’t your standard history museum. Here, you can participate in activities, sail a Viking ship, visit the largest Viking home ever discovered, see archaeological finds, learn Viking arts and crafts, eat Viking food, and try the drink of the gods: mead.

    I’ve brought groups to the Viking Museum a few times. The most popular part is the longhouse, where you can get hands-on and feel like a Viking. However, I always preferred the archaeological museum. As you can see, the museum has something for everyone!

    I’ve compiled this guide to help you make the most of your time at the Viking Museum in Borg. 

    In this article...

    Archaeological Discovery

    In 1983, while a farmer was ploughing his fields, remains of what were believed to be a Viking settlement were discovered at Borg in Lofoten. The excavation lasted around six years, and during the excavation the largest Viking longhouse was discovered. Archaeologists realized that this was the home of a powerful Viking chieftain who had ruled Lofoten. The settlement was dated to around 500AD and was in use until 950AD, when it was abandoned. The large amount of wealthy items showed that this was a powerful home, and that they were trading with people from far away. There are several different sites in the area, indicating that there were settlements before and after the Viking times. When the excavation was concluded, it was decided to turn the site into a museum and reconstruct the longhouse. This became the Viking Museum as we have it today!

    What You See at the Museum

    There’s a lot to see and do here, especially in summer. The museum consists of the following:
    – A full-scale reconstruction of the Viking longhouse
    – Two Viking ships
    – Two exhibition halls
    – A movie theatre
    – A blacksmiths forge
    – Boathouses
    – Two cafes
    – Souvenir shop
    Animals

    The Longhouse

    The reconstructed longhouse is based on finds at the nearby archaeological site. Measuring over 80 metres in length (the size of the archaeological find), the reconstruction has been built using traditional materials and techniques. Inside, the house is divided into different sections showing different aspects of Viking life. 80 metres in length, the original structure was unearthed during an excavation in the 1980s. The replica has been constructed using traditional materials and techniques. Inside, the longhouse is divided into different sections showing different aspects of Viking life, from communal living spaces to storerooms and a feast all. In the summer months, and sometimes in the winter, there are staff dressed up to resemble Vikings and they will talk about their life in this building.

    The house is divided into different sections, as it would’ve been during Viking times. The living quarters is where everyone slept and where work was done, and food was cooked. The feast hall was the centre of events and where celebrations and rituals took place. The most precious finds from the excavation were concentrated at the feast hall. The barn during the Viking Age would’ve been for livestock. In the current reconstruction, it has an exhibition of sculptures and figures from Norse mythology.

    Inside you’ll find people dressed up in Viking costume doing handicrafts or explaining Viking culture.

    You can learn more about the longhouse here: https://www.museumnord.no/en/stories/the-chieftains-house-at-borg/

    While in the longhouse, you can participate in hands-on activities, including traditional crafts such as weaving or blacksmithing, or you can play Viking games. During the summer months, the museum has live demonstrations of Viking combat techniques, shipbuilding, and other skills.

    2020 me sure made the Vikings look very, very uncool!

    Outdoor Attractions

    The walk down to the harbour area takes around twenty minutes, and it’s important to know that it is not open in the winter months. The museum has two Viking ships (copies of the Gokstad ship in Oslo), a reconstructed forge, a boathouse and ironworks. The ships do scenic cruises in the summertime. Also, in summer you can try your hand at some Viking warrior and hunting skills. There are two stations where you can try shooting with a bow and arrow and learn how to throw an ax at a target. In Viking times, the blacksmith had an important role, making arrowheads and spearheads, iron rivets and other tools in use around the settlement.

    There is even a farm here! You can see various historic breeds, including Nordland horses, Nordland cattle, wild sheep, and wild boar.

    You can find more information (and a map) here: https://www.lofotr.no/en/outdoor-area/

    Indoor Museum

    Back indoors, you can visit the indoor exhibition to see items that were found during the excavation. These include tools, jewellery, and weaponry. The indoor exhibition is divided into three parts. Firstly, there is a room about the discovery and excavation of the longhouse. Then, you watch a film about the people and events at Borg during the Viking Age. Finally, there is the collection of archaeological finds from Borg. The movie, “The Dream of Borg”, is honestly a little cheesy – but I like it anyway! The film is based on interpretations of the Viking King Olav Tvennumbrunni and the unification of Norway under one king, and recreates an interpretation of the life and atmosphere of Borg during the Viking Age.

    It’s recommended to use the audio guide here, as the guide tells the story of the discovery here and explains in detail what you’re looking at.

    You can get a detailed overview of the Viking finds here: https://www.lofotr.no/en/archaeological-finds/

    Lofotr Viking Festival

    Every year in August, the Lofotr Viking Festival is held. There are games, stories, competitions, a market, theatre, music and more. There are also courses and educational activities.

    Viking Feast

    Every evening the museum offers a special Viking-style dinner. You can find out more information on their website: https://www.lofotr.no/en/food-drink/

    Practical Information

    Local Name

    Lofotr Vikingmuseum

    Admission Prices

    Tickets vary according to the season (at the moment they are 200 NOK in winter and 250 NOK in summer per person). Discounts are available for students and seniors.

    You can find the current ticket prices here: https://www.lofotr.no/en/find-us/

    Opening Hours

    The museum is open all year round, but hours vary depending on the season. You can find current opening hours here: https://www.lofotr.no/en/find-us/

    Audio Guides

    The audio guide system has translations in Norwegian, English, German, French, Spanish and Italian. You load it up onto your smart phone and then connect to the free wifi.

    Guided Tours

    If you can, I encourage booking a guided tour. Your guide will greet you at the museum entrance and he/she will be dressed up in the Viking gear. Their knowledge is excellent and really brings the setting to life.

    Facilities

    The museum shop here is excellent, especially if you want something Viking themed. You can by jewellery based on the excavations, a Viking Age board game called Hnefatafl, wooden swords, children’s toys, shirts, knitted goods, soap, creams, foodstuffs, and a huge selection of bookings about the Vikings in all languages.

    There are two cafes here. Skjeltersjåen is located by the Vikingship harbour and has various Viking style dishes as well as hot and cold drinks. This café only opens in the summer. In the main museum building is the museum café, with meals prepared according to ingredients available to the Vikings. There’s also hot and cold drinks, waffles and ice cream.

    Parking

    There is a large parking lot by the museum. To get to the museum, a bit of up-hill walking is involved. 

    Final Thoughts on the Viking Museum at Borg

    The Borg Viking Museum is more than just another history museum; it is a fascinating way to learn about the Viking Age. Through its combination of educational exhibitions, interactive experiences, and spectacular surroundings, the museum has is a must-see in Lofoten.

    I love museums that are interactive and have actual objects from the time period. I’m not a fan of screens and replicas. While the longhouse isn’t original, the amount of effort and love that has gone into it makes it very good to see. Also, the fact that it’s where a Viking longhouse was discovered brings a lot to the authenticity of the structure.

    Be sure to check out my Svolvær travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the Lofoten Islands. 

  • Preparation & Embarking the Hurtigruten in Bergen

    Preparation & Embarking the Hurtigruten

    If you’re reading this article, there’s a good chance you’ll be embarking on a Hurtigruten voyage out of Bergen – lucky you! Often considered the world’s most beautiful voyage, the Hurtigruten is a daily ferry service that goes from Bergen to Kirkenes, and then back again. Along the way, the ship stops in 34 wonderful ports over 6 days. Once in Kirkenes, the ship repeats the same journey back south to Bergen.

    Embarkation day can be a stressful day, especially since information isn’t always exactly clear. However, I have done the Hurtigruten enough times to have a clear understanding of exactly how this day works. So, here is my guide to preparing for and embarking the Hurtigruten from the port of Bergen. 

    Embarking the Hurtigruten in Bergen

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Bergen is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Why trust me?

    I’ve been taking travellers on the Hurtigruten since 2019! I love taking the Hurtigruten so much that I have even taken it for a vacation. I believe it is one of the best ways to see Norway, and I encourage everyone to do the voyage at least once in their lifetimes. 

    Above you can see some of the cabin cards I’ve collected over the years. 

    Preparing to Board

    Before you even get on board, there are lot of questions about what you need to pack, what to expect on board, and just generally how things work. Here are some of the key things you need to know ahead of boarding: 

    Important! Hurtigruten FAQ

    Hurtigruten has an excellent FAQ page that you should read as well.

    You can find it here: https://www.hurtigruten.com/en/practical-information/coastal-express

    What currency is used on board? Can I use my credit card?

    The currency used on board is Norwegian Kroner (NOK). It may be possible to exchange currencies on board, but you may not get the best rate. There is a Forex in Bergen should you wish to get currency exchanged in advance.

    That said, you do not need cash on this voyage. On the ship you can pay for everything with bank card. In fact, when you check in at the Bergen terminal the staff will encourage you to open a cruise account. With a cruise account, your credit card is synced to your cabin card and you make all purchases onboard using your cabin number or cabin card. On the last night on board, the amount is charged to your credit card.

    The only time you may want cash is to leave a tip. There is a tip box in the restaurant where you can put cash.

    Is there a dress code on board?

    No. You can wear whatever you like on the ship, and that’s one of the reasons I love it. There’s no formal nights, but if you are on board for the Captains Dinner (Day 10), you may want to bring something nice to wear. But generally the atmosphere is laid back and relaxed.

    What do I do if I have allergies, dietary requirements, or need to keep medication in a fridge?

    Each night at dinner you get to choose between a meat, fish or vegetarian meal, and there are plenty of vegetarian and vegan options at breakfast and lunch. If you have a special diet or allergy, you need to alert the restaurant manager outside the restaurant when you board the ship. It’s also possible to alert them in advance when you book, but I would recommend double checking on board.

    If you have medication that needs to be refrigerated, there are no fridges in the cabins. Rather, simply give them to reception who will store them in a fridge for you.

    What electrical adapters should I bring?

    The sockets used on board are the 220v AC, two-pin Continental type. Basically, standard European plugs. The ship doesn’t offer adapters, so it’s important to come prepared. In Bergen, you can pick them up at sports store or electrical stores.

    Is there a laundry?

    There is a laundry on the ship with washing machines, dryers and irons. To use the machines, you purchase tokens from reception (for approximately 30 NOK) and put them into the washing machine. The detergent is in the machine already. The dryers are used for free.

    What should I pack that I may not be thinking of?

    Bringing a swimming costume and gym clothes. Some of the ships have hot tubs on board and all have gyms. Also, there are towels and hair wash/body wash in your rooms.

    You may also want to bring a lanyard to hold the cabin card. They do sell them on board, but if you have one at home it’s worth bringing it.

    I highly recommend bringing ear plugs and a sleep mask (if travelling in summer). The ship is noisy in the middle of the night, and you will get woken up when docking in the ports. Bring some ear plugs to tone down the noise. Why a sleep mask? Well, in summer it’s light 24/7. While the curtains do an okay job at blocking out the light, I find it just isn’t dark enough. 

    Hurtigruten Day-By-Day Guide

    Did you know I’ve written a day-by-day guide for Hurtigruten? You should read that after you’re done with this! Check it out by clicking the link below. 

    Hurtigruten Day-by-day Guide

    My Hurtigruten book will be coming out in May 2025 🙂 If you want to be notified when that’s released, follow me on Facebook:

    My Facebook Page

    Embarking Hurtigruten in Bergen

    Alright, you’re packed and ready to go. You’ve arrived in Bergen, and now you need to get to the ship. What do you do? Here’s the step-by-step guide!

    When is the terminal open?

    The terminal is open from 1pm to 8pm on departure days.

    Getting from the airport to the terminal

    The journey from the airport to the terminal takes approximately 45 minutes if you take the Flybussen (Airport Bus). You take it from platform A5 in front of the arrivals hall. You can find exact times on their website: https://www.flybussen.no/en

    If you take a taxi, the drive time is approximately 20 minutes. Be careful which company you take; some companies charge 20% more than others. If you want to take a taxi, I recommend downloading the 07000 Bergen Taxi app and booking a taxi. You can book once you pick up your suitcase; it typically takes the taxi 2-3 minutes to appear at the “preordered taxi” pick up zone.

    Getting from a hotel to the terminal

    The terminal is located a little ways outside the city centre, so I recommend booking a taxi (use the same method as mentioned above).

    Storing luggage at the terminal

    You can store luggage at the terminal. The luggage lockers are on the first floor of the terminal and can be paid for by credit card. It is possible to drop off the luggage between 1pm and 2:30pm.

    What time should you arrive?

    You can arrive at the terminal any time after 1pm, but I do encourage waiting until the evening. I know, it’s very exciting boarding Hurtigruten and seeing the ship, but the terminal itself is not so fun. Bergen is a great place – stay in town and explore!

    Tip – while the terminal opens at 1pm, do not come and try to check in between 2:45pm and 3:15pm. This is when the ship is arriving and the passengers are disembarking. To put it mildly, it will be chaos. 

    In Bergen, the embarkation time if 4pm (16:00). However, that doesn’t mean you have to board at 4pm. In fact, you can board as late as 8pm if you really wanted.

    I recommend boarding the ship between 5pm and 7pm. The reason is that the cabins are not ready until 6pm, and that’s the same time the buffet dinner is served. If you arrive before then, you’ll basically just be sitting around on the ship. The Expedition Team may not yet be on board ready to take excursion bookings. So really, you’re just sitting around. Bergen is a pretty wonderful place, so go out and enjoy it!

    I Love Bergen Walking Tours

    I operate walking tours in Bergen and you should absolutely do one while you’re in the city! 

    Click here for more information. 

    The Hurtigruten Guest Lounge

    The Hurtigruten Guest Lounge is located on the second floor of the terminal and is open from 1pm. There are some pastries and drinks that you can have, as well as free Wifi, USB chargers and sockets.

    When checking in at the terminal in Bergen, you simply have to hand over a form of identification, which in most cases is your passport. You will then get the envelope with your cabin card and some practical information inside. The reception will then ask if you want to sync your credit card to your cabin card. While I highly recommend doing it here, keep in mind you can also do it at the reception on board the ship.

    This is the envelope you receive. On the bottom left side, you have all the meal times of that day (lunch changes every day so be sure to double check). The dinner time is your set time, and the table is your assigned table. Remember – this is not for the first night in Bergen! Night one in Bergen is free seating and a buffet, so come whenever you want.

    In the bottom right, there’s all my practical information.

    In the top right, the “SEL” means “Select” package – I paid a little extra for coffee/tea and free Wifi. The Wifi slip is in the envelope. 

    My cabin number is also written here. This is important – it’s not written on your cabin card! This is for safety reasons. 

    Here is what the cabin card looks like. You can see SEL on the cabin card – this is important as the staff will ask to check this when you get coffee or tea. I can also see the dates I’m board, where I’m embarking and disembarking, and what meals I get. It also says that I’m an Ambassador Member, i.e. in their loyalty program. I’m sure that gets me extra benefits, I’ve just never used them. 

    What happens with your luggage?

    Unless you are embarking or disembarking the ship at the terminal in Bergen, you need to carry your own luggage on and off the ship at all the other ports.

    In Bergen, you drop off your luggage when checking in at the counter in the terminal. They put it on a luggage belt, like at an airport, and it goes to the back of the terminal where crew take it on the ship and put it outside your cabin.

    The Safety Briefing

    It is a safety requirement that all passengers attend the safety briefing inside the terminal at Bergen. Once you have checked in and dropped off your luggage, you take the escalator to the upper floor, where there’s a waiting room. Inside the waiting room are free snacks and drinks to keep you happy while you wait.

    If you’re boarding after 5pm, the safety briefings are pretty frequent. If boarding before 5pm, you may be waiting 30 minutes or more for the next briefing. They only run when there’s enough people ready to board.

    The briefing lasts for about 10 minutes and includes a video in Norwegian, English, German and sometimes French. It includes a demonstration of how to put on a life jacket and the instructions to be followed in the event of an evacuation.

    Going on Board

    Once the safety briefing is over, they’ll scan your cabin card so they know you’ve attended the briefing. Then, you’ll walk through the terminal (it’s a long walk!) to get to the place where you board the ship, You’ll have to scan your cabin card again; this time, it’s scanning you in so the staff know you’re on board.

    In Bergen, you embark on Deck 5. Normally once you embark, there is a counter promoting the drinks packages. From Deck 5, head down one level to Deck 4, which is where the reception, expedition team, and restaurant is.

    Wifi

    Yes, one of the first things people want is Wifi! Completely understandable.

    If you have a SEL package, or your documents say you have Wifi included, you’ll get a special Wifi slip in your envelope. About 30% of the time the staff have forgot to put mine in the envelope, which is fine. If this happens to you, just go and ask reception (Deck 4) for one. They’ll give it to you no issues 🙂

    Wifi is a bit of a pain to use as many don’t see that you have to log in two separate times. 

    First you connect to the Wifi on your device and enter the first password on the slip. Then, a popup window will come asking for a username and password. That’s where you enter the second username and password on the slip. Many people (myself included!) miss that.

    Now – the Wifi works fine. However, if you have data in Norway, you may just want to stick on 4G/5G – especially if you have unlimited. I find my 5G (Norwegian Simcard) is faster than the Wifi. 

    Dinner

    The first nights dinner is always a buffet dinner. Dinner opens at 6pm and I highly recommend going early; if you wait until after 7pm, it can get very crowded. Dinner often closes at 9pm. You do not sit in your assigned seats on this day.

    Sail Away

    When the ship leaves at 8:30pm, the expedition team and crew will normally have a little party out on the open deck, where they sell champagne. If the weather is miserable in Bergen, they may not do this. 

    Welcome Meeting

    Normally after the departure from Bergen, perhaps at 9pm or 9:30pm, the expedition team will have their first meeting. I highly recommend going to this!

    During this meeting, you’ll get an introduction to the crew (they come and say hi), the layout of the ship, and important practical information that you need to know. Trust me, it’s worth going to this meeting. It lasts up to 40 minutes.

    Daily Schedule

    Before going to bed, be sure to check out the daily schedule for the following day. This can be found on television screens all around the ship. Some ships also print the daily schedule. 

    Be sure to not only look at the schedule to see which ports you’re docking in, what the lectures are, and so on, but there are also the meal times on the right side. 

    Time for Bed!

    It’s been a long day, and normally by the time the meeting is over you’re done and ready for bed. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Bergen is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

  • Everything You Need to Know When Visiting Nidaros Cathedral

    Everything You Need to Know About Nidaros Cathedral

    Nidaros Cathedral (“Nidarosdomen” in Norwegian) is one of Norway’s most iconic and historically significant landmarks. It serves as a magnificent example of Gothic and Romanesque architecture and is important in Norwegian culture, religion and history.

    It’s practically impossible to visit Trondheim without paying a visit to Nidaros Cathedral. But what do you actually see there? Well, I have been here so many times and have found something new about the cathedral every time. So, in this guide, I’ve put together an overview of the cathedral plus what you can see if you go inside.

    A more detailed overview will be available in my Hurtigruten book, coming in May 2025. 

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Trondheim is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Why is Nidaros Cathedral So Important?

    In short, Nidaros Cathedral is so important as it is the burial church of Norway’s patron Saint Olav. The cathedral is also where the royal family are coronated.

    Nidaros Cathedral is a cathedral in a European context, though in size it cannot compare to the largest and most magnificent cathedrals in Europe. Of the medieval bishoprics in the Norwegian ecclesiastical province, only Stavanger Cathedral and the Magnus Cathedral on the Orkney Islands have survived. The cathedral in Bergen has almost completely disappeared, and the cathedrals in Oslo and Hamar are in ruins. Nidaros Cathedral is also the only church in Norway that has a fully developed Gothic basilica form.

    Nidaros Cathedral is Europe’s northernmost medieval cathedral.

    Standing outside Nidaros Cathedral in 2021

    Historic Overview of Nidaros Cathedral

    Christianity & St. Olav

    Christianity came to Norway in the 9th and 10th centuries, arriving from the south (via Denmark) and from the British Isles. The influence from the British Isles is particularly important, and the first Norwegian kings were baptised in England.

    Even though Norway was influenced by Christianity for a few centuries throughout the Viking period, it wasn’t until Olav Haraldsson that Christianity became permanent. Also, Olav Haraldsson became St Olav – whose casket was placed at Nidaros Cathedral. 

    Olav Haraldsson was born in 995 and at the age of 12 set off to England on a Viking raid. During his time in England, he discovered Christianity and was baptised in 1014. He then returned to Norway with a mission: convert the Norwegians. He crowned himself King and then travelled around the country forcing Christianity on the pagans, or he threatened them with death. Eventually his strict reign created enemies, and he was forced to flee Norway in 1028. He came back a year later in an attempt to retake the throne, but at Stiklestad (a region north of Trondheim), his opponents lay in waiting with a huge army. After an intense battle, on the 29th of July 1030, Olav was killed. 

    His body was transferred to Trondheim and buried in a sandbank. It is believed to have been roughly where Nidaros Cathedral’s high altar is today.

    Rumours quickly spread that miracles had occurred by the kings body, and that Olav was holy. Around one year after his burial, the coffin was removed and opened. The kings body appeared unchanged as if he had just died, and his hair and nails had grown. 

    Olav was proclaimed a saint and his coffin was placed on the high altar at St. Clements Church. A wooden chapel was built on the place where he had been buried, and a spring arose from there that had healing properties. Countless miracles were happening and the casked of St. Olav became an important pilgrimage site. 

    Founding & Construction of Nidaros Cathedral

    As the casket of St. Olav continued to develop as an important pilgrimage site, it was decided to build a better church. Around 1070, King Olav Kyrre had a larger Christian church built. It was made of stone and completed around 1090. Olav’s coffin with the body inside stood on the high altar. 

    However, it wasn’t enough and by 1152 there were plans to expand the church into a large cathedral. The work proceeded quickly, and the southern transept was consecrated by Archbishop Øystein Erlendsson in 1161. The transept still has its Romanesque features today. 

    After a brief period of exile, Archbishop Øystein returned from England in 1183 and had the building style of Nidaros Cathedral changed to Gothic. The cathedral was completed around 1300 and this is when it got the layout we see today. The transept, Chapter House, and large parts of the octagon are the work of Archbishop Øystein. 

    Church-spiration?

    There are many churches that served as a role model for Nidaros Cathedral. Strong influence can be seen from Lincoln Cathedral (click here for a model of Lincoln Cathedral – notice the similarity?) and the choir of Canterbury Cathedral (click here for a picture). However, there’s also inspiration from French churches, such as Notre Dame in Paris. 

    Pilgrim sign

    Worshipping St. Olav & Pilgrimage

    The church and St. Olav’s grave became an important pilgrimage destination for the whole of Europe. It was Olav’s status as a saint that made pilgrims flock to Nidaros Cathedral.

    In the Middle Ages, the cathedral was the centre of the Catholic religion in Norway. The Archbishops Court, which was the Archbishops residence, was built immediately south of the cathedral.

    The Fires & Restoration Work

    Soon after the cathedral was completed, it burned in the first major fire in 1328. The fire heavily damaged the cathedral, with most of the columns and crockets having to be replaced. A lot of the interior and exterior woodwork had been destroyed, along with the bells, stone arches, stone columns, and many valuable items. 

    The church was restored after the fire, and today the only visible remains of the reconstruction are the chancel arch walls and part of the arcades in the octagons central space. The style shows that English architecture was still a major influence. 

    Restoration work was completed in 1349, the same year the Black Death to Norway. All the priests along with Archbishop Arne Vade died, as well as a large part of Trondheim’s population. For the next 80 years, little is known of what was done to the cathedral.

    In 1432, the tower was struck by lightning and all interior and exterior woodwork caught fire and was destroyed. None of the work from this restoration is visible today. 

    Throughout the 15th century there was political instability, so little was done to the cathedral. In 1510, Erik Walkendorf was appointed as the new archbishop, and he set out restoring the cathedral. He restored the octagon and also ensured the Olav Shrine was made grander. 

    However, these efforts were short lived. In 1531, a fire broke out in Trondheim and the cathedral (with the city) burned to the ground. The damage was extensive and a restoration work quickly began. In the choir, the middle aisle walls were demolished and rebuilt with massive plain walls. However, work had to stop as the Reformation had begun. 

    The Reformation & Abandoning the Cathedral

    In 1536, the Danish King Christian III won a battle and adopted Martin Luther’s teachings. Catholicism in Denmark and Norway was abolished, and bishops were arrested. The last Catholic Archbishop in Trondheim, Olav Engelbrektsson, fled the country on the 1st of April 1537. The cathedral’s treasures and shrine were plundered by the king’s soldiers and the metal was melted down into coins. The Olav Shrine was removed, the pilgrims were no more, and the cathedral looked like an empty shell.

    In 1564, the cathedral was plundered by Swedish soldiers, who stripped it of its remaining valuables. 

    After the Reformation, the cathedral became a parish church for Trondheim and was the main centre of the Lutheran religion. 

    At the beginning of the 17th century, the cathedral was in poor condition. It was partly restored in a Baroque style, which became popular in Trondheim. From 1625, private individuals were allowed to purchase burial sites within the cathedral, and the city’s wealthiest families saw it as a way to have their status acknowledged. Crypts were built beneath the floors, and over the next 200 years, hundreds of coffins were placed around Nidaros Cathedral. 

    Later Fires

    During the town fire of 1708, the cathedral burned (except for the stone walls). The church was struck by lightning in 1719 and sat in ruins with decaying walls and fears that the cathedral may collapse. The walls were patched up and whitewashed to conceal their decay. The marble columns had disappeared and were replaced by white-painted wooden columns. 

    It has been said that the cathedral’s and country’s history reflect each other: when the country had its period of greatness, the cathedral is at is most magnificent. When the country was in decline and decay, so was the cathedral. 

    Restoration

    In 1814 Norway became a separate state, though in union with Sweden. Interest in the country’s old, historic monuments began. This was particularly the case with Nidaros Cathedral, which had been included in Norway’s Constitution in 1814 as the coronation church for the king. 

    In 1833, a stone fell from the vault above the altar. This led to the first examination of the cathedral by an architect. In the following years, several initiatives were taken regarding the restoration of the cathedral. It was decided that the cathedral should go back to its medieval appearance.

    A major restoration of the cathedral began in 1869, led by architect H.E. Schirmer. However, there was a lot of criticism towards him as he was taking too many creative liberties, so he was replaced with Christian Christie in 1872. 

    Almost 90 men worked on the restoration work including 50 stonemasons. The Western Front, which was basically in ruins, was completed in 1965. It was not until 2001 that restoration work was officially finished, though the cathedral is under constant maintenance to replace bad stone and strengthen weak points. 

    Visiting the Cathedral

    It costs money to go inside the cathedral, which can be bought from the visitor centre. Inside, you are allowed to take photos (but no flash). 

    There are no information signs around the cathedral, so I recommend picking up a guide book at the visitor centre. My guide below is a summary of what you can see. 

    The Western Front

    Before we even enter, let’s discuss the Western Front. It’s believed to have been inspired by English cathedrals. After the fire of 1531, the Western Front was left in ruins and most of what you see today is from the 19th century restoration. 

    Click here to see a photo of what the Western Front looked like when restoration started. 

    The Western Front has 76 sculptures and only five were preserved at the time of restoration (they are now in the Archbishops Residence Museum). The way it’s designed is that it is a tree, in which the central trunk (or axis) is Christ, with representations of his story. The rows of statues spread out like a tree. In the lowest row are the apostles and champions of Christianity, including those in Norway. In the second row, there are scenes from the Old and New Testaments with virtues. At the end of the row, there are saints from the archdiocese of Nidaros, including St. Olav & Archbishop Øystein. The third and uppermost row contains 16 large, seated statues. There are Christs ancestors in the form of Old Testament Kings of Israel. Furthest out sit five prophets and patriarchs. 

    Many of the sculptures are portraits of famous people in the sculptors time. For example, St Klemens is a portrait of the poet Olav Aukrust. Bishop Sigurd has three severed heads on a platter, and they feature the three architects of Nidaros Cathedral’s restoration. The bronze sculpture at the very top, by Kristofer Leirdal, bear’s Bob Dylan’s facial features. 

    There is a Wiki dedicated to what all the sculptures are, so I won’t go into it here. You can click here to see the overview of all the sculptures. 

    The Nave

    You enter the cathedral into the nave. The nave is one of the ‘newer’ parts of the cathedral, as construction here begun in 1248 under Archbishop Sigurd Eindridesson. The style is in High Gothic and has a clear English influence. For example, the angel reliefs on the archways may refer to the ‘angel choir’ in Lincoln Cathedral (click here for a photo) and Westminster Abbey. Most of the reliefs have been damaged or destroyed. The best preserved one, which depicts the archangel Michael in battle with the devil, is on display at the Archbishops Residence Museum. 

    After the fire of 1531, the nave was left a roofless ruin and the interior began to collapse. During the 18th century, the vaults in the nave collapsed. When restoration began, most of the nave had gone. The new reliefs in the nave were made by Gustav Vigeland (yes, that Gustav Vigeland) and Wilhelm Rasmussen between 1900 and 1910. 

    Romanesque details on the north transept

    North Transept

    The transept in the northern side (as you’re walking down towards the octagon, it’s on your left) is known as the lecture hall and was completed around 1130-1150. It has the name because the Cathedral School was located here at one period, perhaps in the Middle Ages.

    The northern portal is in the Anglo Norman style, the version of Romanesque architecture that was developed in Normandy and England in the 11th century. The portal has zigzag borders, folding capitals, and lion masks. It’s one of the best places in the cathedral to see the Romanesque architecture. 

    Here you’ll find a memorial for the women who lost their lives during World War II. There’s also a memorial for all the Norwegian kings that were likely buried at Nidaros Cathedral. 

    South Transept

    The chapel on the southern side is the Johanneskapellet (John the Baptist Chapel). An inscription shows that it was consecrated by Archbishop Øystein in 1161 – this is the only inscription found in the cathedral with a year that can be used for dating. 

    The altar is made in Italian marble by the sculptor Harald Wårvik in 1985. The paintings on the two wall cabinets were made in 2006 and take themes from the story of John the Baptist. On the floor is a memorial plate for Thomas Angell and his family (Angell was a very wealthy man from Trondheim who left his fortune to the city after his death). 

    On the southern side is a Sami altar. The altar was designed by Folke Fjallstrom and is made of oiled birch and adorned with Sami ornamentation. 

    You can also see a standard here – a royal flag with the Norwegian coat of arms. This flag flew on the HMS Norfolk, the British ship that carried King Haakon VII home to Norway from England on the 7th of June 1945 after Norway had been liberated. 

    There is also a British flag hanging here – this flag flew on the ship HMS Mackay when it arrived in Trondheim on the 16th of May 1945 to assist in the liberation; it was the first allied ship to assist in the liberation of Norway. 

    The Choir

    You are now entering the older part of the cathedral. The choir was built in two periods – the first from 1140 until 1180 and the second around the year 1200. The choir is in the Gothic style and shows a lot of similarity to Lincoln Cathedral (click here for a photo of Lincoln Cathedral’s nave). 

    The side aisles were used for processions and for those who wanted to visit the octagon and the Olav Shrine so the clergy wouldn’t be disturbed. 

    After the fire in 1531, the walls either collapsed or were in such a bad state that they had to be demolished. New, thicker middle aisle walls were built. These walls were demolished in the 1880s, revealing large parts of the original 13th century middle aisle walls that were used as filling in the walls and thus survived. Parts of the original stones were used in the restoration of the middle aisle. 

    Here you can see the soapstone font, which is a gift from 1905. It is a reconstruction of the remains of a font or fountain that were uncovered during the renovation. The font was made by Gustav Vigeland. 

    The Chapter House

    The Chapter House is a freestanding chapel on the northern side of the choir. It was completed around the 1160s and was probably used to house relics and valuable items.

    The style here is different to the transept. There are rich images here, such as water-lily leaves. This is commonly found in the monasteries of Cistercian monks. The Chapter House has no sculptures, which is also typical of Cistercian monasteries. Here you’ll find both Romanesque and Gothic arches – the first examples in Norway of such a style. The details suggest inspiration from York Cathedral, or the stonemasons came from there. 

    The only medieval furniture that has survived can be found here. It is a small chest where the canons chair robes were kept. On one side has been painted “for my age, I am honoured. Anno 1304”. 

    Stonemasons mark

    The Octagon

    This is the oldest and most important part of the cathedral. It’s believed the octagon was the idea of Archbishop Øystein. At Canterbury Cathedral, a martyrdom for Thomas Becket was under construction (click here for more information), and it may have given inspiration to the Nidaros Cathedral octagon. It may have also been inspired by the structure around Jesus’ tomb in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem. 

    The columns and crockets around the octagon are unique and can only be found in two places in Europe – at Nidaros Cathedral and at Lincoln Cathedral (click here). On the octagon’s exterior are delicate flying buttresses which extend from the outer wall to the wall of the central space, in order to take the weight of the vaulting. This is an important element in Gothic architecture and the first such example to be found in Scandinavia.

    The walls here are richly decorated with stonemasonry, more than any other building in Norway. They combine elements of Romanesque architecture with newer elements.

    Inside the octagon is a blind arcade, i.e. a decorative archway with pointed arches and lace decoration. The purpose of the design is to create a passage for the pilgrims who would come to see Olav’s casket. 

    On the walls of the octagon you’ll find carvings and signatures made by both the stone masons and pilgrims waiting in line.

    Here you find the Olavsantensalet, which was created in Norway in the early 14th century. 

    The High Altar in the octagon was made in 1883. The shape is supposed to be reminiscent of the Olav Shrine from the Middle Ages. 

    This is also where the healing spring is supposed to have come from. You’ll find it tucked away in a corner, with people leaving coins here. 

    The Glass Windows

    It’s worth also adding the glass windows, as they are quite distinctive. 

    There were no windows remaining when the restoration work began in the 19th century. They are made by Gabriel Kielland and date back to the early 20th century. The windows are inspired by French cathedrals, especially Chartres Cathedral. You’ll notice they are quite dark; this is because Kielland travelled through France and assumed the windows in France were purposely dark. However, the French had not cleaned the windows! That’s why the windows in the cathedral are so dark. 

    It’s not known if the original Nidaros Cathedral had a rose window, and there was an intense debate during restoration if this cathedral should get one. 

    The Organs

    Lastly, Nidaros Cathedral has two pipe organs. The oldest (in the north transept) was built by German organ builder Johann Joachim Wagner in 1738-1739. For the 900th anniversary of the Battle of Stiklestad in 1930, a new large organ was ordered from Steinmeyer. 

    Practical Information

    Hopefully by now I’ve convinced you that Nidaros Cathedral is worth visiting! Here’s all the practical information you need to know. 

    Local Name

    Nidarosdomen

    Admission & Prices

    Tickets into the cathedral cost 120 NOK, though they do offer discounts for students and senior citizens. It’s also possible to buy a combination ticket so you can also visit the Archbishops Residence.

    See up-to-date prices here: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/#ticket

    Opening Hours

    The cathedral is typically open from 9am until 2pm. Keep in mind church service and special events.

    I highly recommend looking at their website for the most up-to-date information: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/#ticket

    Facilities

    In the visitor centre you’ll find a cafe, gift shop and restrooms. The gift shop is excellent and has a wide selection of both cathedral-themed and Trondheim-themed souvenirs. 

    Guided Tours

    Public guided tours are available in the summer months, or you can book a private tour year-round.

    Learn more about guided tours here: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/en/omvisninger

    Church Events

    If you want to attend a concert or service, I recommend browsing their calendar. Unfortunately, the calendar only seems to be available in Norwegian. Still, it’s possible to make out what is happening: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/kalender?items=20

    Coastal Ferry

    I highly recommend booking the excursions on board the ferry that include a guided tour inside the cathedral. If you are coming independently, you need to be sure you can walk to the cathedral within 45 minutes in order to five yourself enough time to enter and look around. 

    Final Thoughts on Nidaros Cathedral

    Nidaros Cathedral is a must-see if you are in Trondheim, or even if you are visiting Norway in general. Despite a troubled history, there’s no doubt Nidaros Cathedral has survived as one of the most impressive buildings in Norway, and not something you expect to see this far north. I love the detailed history of the cathedral, the significance of each individual stone, and how the cathedral reflects Norway’s past.

    I hope you enjoyed this guide to Nidaros Cathedral!

    Be sure to check out my Trondheim travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the beautiful historic city. 

  • The History of Vadsø, the Kven Capital of Norway

    The History of Vadsø

    Located in the far north-east of Norway, Vadsø is a small town with a surprisingly complex and fascinating history. The town is located on the Varanger peninsula, close to the Russian border, and for hundreds of years has seen settlement from Sami, Kven and Norwegian populations due to the rich fishing and nearby trade.

    If you are road-tripping in Northern Norway, Vadsø is located along the Varanger Tourist Road, one of the most unique tourist roads in the country. Otherwise, you will likely visit Vadsø when sailing on the coastal ferry. In any case, I really love Vadsø and think it’s a highlight in Northern Norway. So, here’s my overview of the areas history to help you understand why it’s so unique. 

    The History of Vadsø

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vadsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Vadsø, including practical information and things to do. 

    Earliest Settlement

    People have lived in the area for thousands of years. Excavations have shown that there were settlements in the area as long as 9,000 years ago. It’s believed that the first people in the area were the Sami people. They were a semi-nomadic people, relying on fishing, reindeer herding, and hunting.

    Early Migration of Norwegian & Kven People

    Starting in the late medieval period, Norwegians and Finnish immigrants, later known as Kvens, began to settle in the area. Vadsø developed as a cultural meeting point for different groups. Most Norwegians came over in the 16th century. They settled on the island of Vadsøya thanks to the close proximity to the fisheries. Vadsøya is separated from the mainland by a 70 metre wide sound that could be walked across at low tide; this is still possible today. The village even had a church on the island.

    Vadsøya Cultural Heritage Trail

    On the island Vadsøya there is a 1.8km long cultural heritage trail, with interesting information on ancient sites from the Middle Ages in Vadsø, the cemetery, the airship masts, and other war memorials.

    Pomor Trade

    Vadsø benefited from trade with Russian merchants, known as Pomors. This trade flourished in the 17th and 18th centuries. The Russians brought goods like grain in exchange for fish and other local products.

    You can read my detailed overview of the Pomor Trade by clicking the link below. 

    Moving the Settlement

    Vadsø Church in the 1930s. Photo by Anders Beer Wilse. Source: Digitalt Museum

    As the settlement grew, it was decided to move Vadsø over onto the Varanger peninsula. In 1717, the church was moved over to the mainland. The current church is the fourth church to be in Vadsø. Vadsø continued to grow in the 19th century, and was officially designated as a municipality in 1839. Throughout the 19th century, fishing remained an important part of the local economy, complemented by trade and shipping. Svend Foyn’s first whale station was located on Vadsøya. In 1875, 62% of the population was Finnish speaking, and Vadsø was considered the capital Kven city in Norway. The Finnish language is still spoken by many, and Finnish traditions are still done alongside the Norwegian ones.

    Kven Immigration

    Kvenbyen (Kven City) in Vadsø. Photo by Sven Worm-Petersen. Taken 1890-1910. Source: Digitalt Museum

    The 19th century saw significant immigration from Finland due to famine and political unrest. This influx of Kvens significantly influenced the towns culture and demographics. The town has become known as the ‘Kven capital’.

    The Kven People

    “Kven” is the name given to people of Finnish descent in Northern Norway. The present-day Kven population descends from several waves of settlement and immigration that took place in the 18th and 19th centuries. The first wave was to Troms and West Finnmark, although the largest wave of immigration was to East Finnmark and Vadsø in particular. The Kven culture is stronger in West Finnmark, but there are several buildings and remains in the east too.

     

    Source: Nord Norge travel site linked below

    The Oldest Building

    The oldest building in Vadsø is Tuomainegården, a traditional Finnish house. The house is from 1851 and is an example of a ‘Varanger House’, which is a type of house with several variants developed in East Finnmark with the influence of neighbouring countries and the many ethnic groups residing here. The house and outhouse are joined by a corridor, so you could reach the outhouse without having to go out into bad weather. The Finns also brought the sauna with them when they came, and the sauna in this building has been preserved.

    Learn more about the house by clicking here. 

    Arctic Exploration

    Vadsø mast. Photo by Anders Beer Wilse. Taken in 1928. Source: Digitalt Museum.

    Near the Hurtigruten pier in Vadsø stands a 60-meter-tall mast built in 1926 by Italian aviation engineer Umberto Nobile. It served as a mooring mast for the airships Norge in 1926 and Italia in 1928. This structure symbolizes a significant chapter in Norwegian and European polar exploration. Both airships launched from Vadsø to Ny-Ålesund on Svalbard before embarking on their historic North Pole expeditions.

    Renowned Norwegian polar explorer Roald Amundsen (1872–1928), already celebrated for his Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, believed airships were ideal for exploring uncharted Arctic regions. His initial attempt in 1922, using two airships from Tromsø, ended in crashes, though the pilots were rescued.

    In 1926, Amundsen teamed up with American millionaire Lincoln Ellsworth for a new Arctic expedition aboard the airship Norge. Designed and piloted by Nobile, the airship departed from Rome and traveled via Oslo, Leningrad, and Vadsø, crossing the Barents Sea to Ny-Ålesund. On May 11, 1926, the expedition reached the North Pole and landed in Teller, Alaska, on May 14. The crew returned to Norway as celebrated heroes.

    World War II

    Vadsø after bombing in August 1944

    Vadsø, like much of Finnmark, was heavily affected by the German occupation during World War II. Vadsø was at times the headquarters for approximately 2,000 German troops. The centre of the town was badly damaged when the Allies bombed the town in 1944. Despite the bombings, 1/3 of the towns buildings were left standing. In Vadsø, there are more preserved pre-war buildings than anywhere else in Finnmark County.

    The town was bombed several times by Soviet forces due to its strategic location. At the end of the war, it was almost entirely destroyed by the German scorched-earth retreat in 1944.

    Vadsø was completely rebuilt after the war, with modern architecture replacing older wooden buildings.

    Modern Times

    While fishing remains important for the community, the economy has diversified to include public administration, trade, and tourism. The town is also known for promoting its diverse cultural heritage, particularly the contributions of the Sami and the Kvens.

    Also, Vadsø’s location near the Barents Sea places it within the broader context of Arctic geopolitics and environmental concerns.

    Vadsø’s history reflects resilience and adaptation in a challenging Arctic environment, with a rich blend of cultures and historic events shaping its identity today.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vadsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Uppsala, including practical information and things to do. 

  • Visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Viking Site of Birka

    Visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Birka in Sweden

    Birka, located on the island of Björkö on Lake Mälaren in Sweden, is considered to be one of the most significant Viking Age archaeological sites in Scandinavia. From the 8th to the 10th century, this was a thriving trade hub and one of the earliest urban centres in Sweden.

    Today Birka is on the UNESCO World Heritage List as the site provides an insight into the Viking Age’s social, economic and cultural dynamics. It’s also a popular place for visitors, so this guide is designed to give you practical information on how to reach Birka and what you can see there. It’s a perfect day trip from Stockholm, especially if you are interested in early Viking history.

    In this article...

    The History of Birka

    Founding as a Trade Centre

    Birka was founded around 750 AD as a trading port by a king or merchants trying to control trade. It is one of the earliest urban settlements in Scandinavia. Birka served as the Baltic link in the Dnieper Trade Route through Ladoga and Novgorod to the Byzantine Empire and the Abbasid Caliphate.

    Birka was also the site of the first known Christian congregation in Sweden, founded in 831 by Saint Ansgar.

    At its peak, it’s believed that around 1000 people lived here.

    As a trading centre, Birka likely exported furs, iron goods, and craft products. Furs were obtained from the Sami people, the Finns, and the people of Northwestern Russia, as well as local trappers. Furs included bear, fox, marten, otter, beaver, and other species. The trade of walrus tusks, amber, and honey is also documented. In return, it imported various materials from Europe and Western Asia. Foreign goods found in Birka include glass and metalware, pottery from Rhineland, clothing and textiles including Chinese silk, Byzantine embroidery, and plaited cords of high quality.

    Abandonment

    The settlement was abandoned in 975 AD, around the same time that Sigtuna was founded as a Christian town some 35km to the northeast. Based on the dating of coins found in the area, the city seems to have died out around 960. The reason for Birka’s decline are disputed. The Baltic island of Gotland is a better position for the Byzantine trade, and it was gaining eminence as a mercantile stronghold. It has also been speculated that Birka was the victim of an enemy assault.

    No texts survive from the area, though Adam of Bremen wrote about the missionary work of Ansgar in Birka as well as the Archbishop Unni, who died at Birka in 936. Saint Ansgar’s work was the first attempt to convert the people of Birka from the Old Norse religion to Christianity.

    Rediscovering Birka

    The exact location of Birka was lost over time, leading to speculation from Swedish historians. In search of Birka, National Antiquarian Johan Hardorph was the first to attempt excavations on the island in the late 17th century.

    In the late 19th century, Hjalmar Stolpe, an entomologist, arrived on the island to study fossilised insects found in amber on the island. He found very large amounts of amber, which is unusual as amber is not usually found in Lake Malaren. He speculated that the island must’ve been used for trade, and this began a series of archaeological excavations. These excavations indicated that a major settlement had been located on the island and a two decade excavation, led by Stolpe, took place.

    The archaeological remains are located in the northern part of the island and span an area of about 7 hectares (17 acres). The remains are both burial sites and buildings, and there is also a hill fort called “Borgen”. The construction technique of the buildlings is still unknown, but the main material was wood.

    On the 15th of June 2022, it was announced that archaeologists from Stockholm University’s Archaeological Research Laboratory had found a Viking Age shipyard in Lake Malaren.

    Why is Birka Significant?

    Birka is a significant site for a few reasons: 
    – Trading Centre: Birka was a bustling marketplace during the Viking period. Here, goods like furs, iron, amber and textiles were traded with regions as far as the Byzantine Empire, the Middle East, and Western Europe
    – Christianisation: Birka was one of the first places in Sweden to adopt Christianity. Therefore, Birka was an early focal point for Christian missionaries, such as Ansgar, who attempted to introduce Christianity to Sweden in the 9th century
    – Archaeological Finds: The site of Birka contains remains of Viking dwellings, graves, and artifacts such as jewellery, tools, and weapons.


    Birka isn’t the only Viking Age site in the area; there is also Hovgården on the neighbouring island of Adelsö. Together, they both make up an archaeological complex which illustrates the elaborate trading networks of Viking Scandinavia and their influence on the subsequent history of Europe. Birka and Hovgården have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993.

    What You Can See at Birka

    Most visitors come to Birka as part of a guided tour from Stockholm city centre. The full day-trip includes a guided walking tour of the site as well as a visit to the museum. Here are some highlights of the island. 

    Birka Museum

    The Birka Museum displays artifacts and reconstructions of Viking Age buildings. It’s important to keep in mind that you won’t see a real city in Birka. Rather, you see ruins and sites that have been excavated. Birka is interesting from an archaeological perspective. The museum doesn’t have the wide variety of objects like what you’d find in the Vikings section at the Swedish History Museum, but it’s still a nice place to visit. The museum provides insight into what the Viking settlement would have looked like in its heyday through various models and dioramas.

    Viking Village Reconstruction

    A recreation of a Viking settlement has been built across from the museum so you can get an idea into what Birka may have looked like from the 8th to the 10th centuries. The reconstruction has a nice, authentic vibe to it and is decorated in a way that they believe the Vikings would’ve decorated.

    There are over 3,000 graves, many still unexcavated, showing diverse burial practices and goods.

    Significant Items

    The Birka dragonhead is a 45mm long decorative object made from a tin alloy. The dragonhead was cast from a soapstone mould. Stylistically similar dragonheads have been discovered around the Baltic and they likely functioned as dress pins.

    10 small silver crosses were found in graves at Birka. It’s believed they were brought by missionaries. 27 graves contained small pendants of Thor’s hammer from around the 10th century.

    Dirham coins have been located all around Scandinavian countries and suggest strong trade relations existed between the medieval Middle East and Northern Europe. A dirham coin was found in the excavation of grave sites at Birka, with Arabic writing and an absence of imagery that would date the coin sometime after the 7th century.

    Fortress Ruins

    Danes attacked Birka, so it’s believed that a fortress was built to protect the settlement. An entry point in a Viking-era defensive wall still stands at Birka. At the top of the hillfort is the Ansar Monument, a cross erected in 1834 in honour of Saint Ansgar.

    Ting Assembly

    A ‘ting’ was a major assembly for chieftains in the region. Tings were huge open-air events, which required plenty of space.

    Religious Sites

    Ansgar’s Cross is a modern cross made to mark the missionary’s efforts to introduce Christianity to the region. It is also believed that one of the first churches to be built in Sweden was built here at Birka.

    It’s recommended to join a guided walking tour in Birka to get a full understanding of the archaeological site, its history, and its findings.

    Once you’re done with the history, you can enjoy one of the several hiking trails on the island.

    Burial Sites

    Over 3,000 grave sites are located on Birka, including both cremations and burials in coffins or chamber graves. Skeletal analysis and the presence of gender-specific jewellery and objects in graves has shown that the majority of the deceased are female. It’s theorised that this is because female grave goods are easy to identify, but male graves without objects are difficult to identify.

    Many graves contain objects such as coins, glass and textiles that came from foreign countries such as Middle East and Eastern Asia.

    Runic Inscriptions

    At the Birka Museum you can see Uppland Runic Inscription 6, which was discovered in several pieces on the island. The 10 pieces have bene placed together and are on display. These fragments were found over a period of 100 years.

    Items from Birka on Display at the Swedish History Museum

    The Swedish History Museum has one of the best exhibitions on the Viking Age in Scandinavia. The museum contains many items from Birka. For example, here you can see ice skates made of animal bone, silver pendants, a necklace, pearls, and glass beads. There is also the skeleton of a child known as the “Birka Girl”. This is a rare lavish burial of a six-year-old girl. Birka’s controversial ‘Allah Ring’ is also on display here.

    Practical Information

    Getting Here

    Getting to Birka is an adventure in itself.

    Boat: The most popular wat to visit Birka is by taking a boat tour from Stockholm. The company Stromma offers daily tours out to Birka and it’s highly recommended to book your ticket in advance. You can view the tour here: https://www.stromma.com/en-se/stockholm/excursions/day-trips/birka-the-viking-city/

    If you don’t want to go on a large public tour, you can take a local boat across run by Kalle Runristare: https://www.hovgarden.com/io4-guide.html#boat-to-birka. He can also be booked as a guide on the island and you can also include him as a guide for Hovgården.

    If you don’t want to take a guided tour, there are also local ferries operating to Birka. The official website for Birka has information on this in detail. 

    Car: You can drive to the mainland near the island and take a ferry or boat to the island.

    Overnighting in Birka

    It is possible to spend the night on Birka in one of their glamping tents. You can learn more here: https://www.stromma.com/en-se/stockholm/excursions/day-trips/glamping-at-birka/

    Best Time of the Year

    Birka is typically open to visitors from late spring to early autumn (May to September). In the summer months there are often Viking reenactments, guided tours, and educational workshops.

     

    Official Website

    I recommend browsing the official Birka website for the best practical information: https://www.birkavikingastaden.se/en/how-to-get-here/

    Final Thoughts on Visiting Birka

    Overall, Birka is the perfect place for fans of the Vikings or those with an interest in archaeology and early history. If you aren’t exactly a Viking person, this may not be the place for you. There aren’t many physical remains of Birka left, so you need to go in with the understanding that you aren’t visiting a Viking village, but rather the site of where one used to be. Still, I think it’s a fascinating place!

    Be sure to check out my Stockholm travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the beautiful Swedish capital. 

  • The Polar Museum in Tromsø

    The Polar Museum in Tromsø

    The Polar Museum in Tromsø is a renowned museum that offers an immersive experience into the rich history of Arctic exploration and the polar regions. The museum commemorates Tromsø’s important role as a gateway for Arctic expeditions and highlights the stories of explorers, hunters and scientists who ventured into the challenging Arctic region.

    I’ve been to the Polar Museum several times, and truly believe that it’s a must-see when visiting Norway. So, here’s my practical guide for visiting the Polar Museum in Tromsø. 

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    About the Museum

    The Polar Museum in Tromsø officially opened on the 18th of June 1978, the 50th anniversary of Roald Amundsens fateful flight aboard the “Latham”.

    With its location in the Arctic, Tromsø has served as the gateway to the Arctic for adventurers, hunters and researchers.

    The museum is located in the former customs house in Tromsø. The building dates back to 1830, and was used as a bonded warehouse to the customs authorities until the 1970s. The museum also owns the neighbouring building, which was built in 1840. It was also used as a customs house but is now the museum’s administration building.

    Inside the Museum

    As you can see, the museum is quite small and can get crowded – especially in the afternoons!

    Layout of the Museum

    The layout of the museum is as follows:

    Ground Floor:
    Room 1: Trapping in the Arctic
    Room 2: Svalbard in the 1600s and 1700s
    Room 3: Hunting Situation
    Room 4: Seal Hunting – Zoological Exhibition
    Room 5: Seal Hunting

    1st Floor:
    Room 6: Aircrafts & the Arctic
    Room 7: Henry Rudi & Wanny Woldstad
    Room 8: Walrus Hunting & Polar Bear Hunting
    Room 9: Roald Amundsen
    Room 10: Fridtjof Nansen

    Most text displays are in Norwegian, but there are printed documents with translations into English. You can’t take them with you, however. They are wonderfully detailed, so I actually took photos of all of them so I could read them later.

     

    What the information boards look like. It’s a little tricky to read as it’s quite far away (unless you have amazing eyesight!). 

    Hunting & Trapping

    The first exhibition is about Arctic hunting and trapping. It explores the traditions of Arctic hunters and trappers who braved extreme conditions for survival and trade. Here you can see tools, weapons and artifacts related to seal hunting, the trapping of polar bears and Arctic foxes, as well as the fur trade. The information goes into detail about how they survived, especially in the difficult winters.

    The exhibits are wonderfully built. I think this is why I love older museums; there was so much work put into creating displays. New museums (in my opinion) rely too much on tech. But here, at the Polar Museum, you can step into a trappers cabin and see exactly what it looked like. They also have all the tools and furs out on display.

    While some scenes may be shocking, it’s important to remember that the world was different 200 years ago, and for many this was their only way to make a living. And, this far north, this type of meat was much fresher than bringing something up from the south.

    On the walls you’ll find dozens of photos of actual trapping and hunting that took place. Some of them have captions in English, but not all of them. Some also include captions in German.

    These are the translated guides that you have to carry with you. But look below to see how detailed it is!

    Svalbard

    I love Svalbard (I have a whole section dedicated to Svalbard on the website! Click here to see it), and the Svalbard Museum provides an even better overview than what you get in the Polar Museum. Still, this exhibition provides an excellent overview of Svalbard and may even encourage you to book a trip there. The exhibition on Svalbard provides a historic overview of the region and how it came to be a hub for Arctic hunting and exploration.

    Seal Hunting

    There is a special section in the museum dedicated to seal hunting. Seal hunting is quite controversial in Norway today, but is a very small industry. The only place I’ve seen seal meat for sale was in Svalbard. Still, this exhibition provides context into why seal hunting was happening, how it worked, and what the seal was used for. There are displays showing all the different types of seal skins, the process of seal hunting, and then seal hunting in modern times and the controversies that come with it. I particularly like the displays showing all the different navigational tools that were used to get to Svalbard (it’s in the same area as the seal hunting).

    Polar Bears & Airships

    Upstairs you’ll see some models of the various airships that were used in the polar exploration missions. There are even photos on display, including one of the well-known airship Norge, which departed from Vadsø to fly over the North Pole. Most of the text on the wall here is only in Norwegian, making it challenging to follow in English.

    Next to it is an exhibition on polar bear hunting, another controversial topic that does not happen anymore. Still, seeing and learning about how these trappers caught polar bears is quite impressive!

    Arctic Explorers

    On the upper floor the main focus is the polar expeditions, which I find to be one of the highlights of the museum. Here you can learn about the Arctic explorers such as Fridtjof Nansen and Roald Amundsen. Their pioneering efforts in navigating uncharted territories and advancing polar science are celebrated with maps, photographs, and equipment. The museum especially focuses on Tromsø as a departure point for Arctic missions and its role in supporting the explorers.

    Here you’ll see items that belonged to these iconic explorers, as well as photographs of their missions and diaries they kept on their travels. The English booklets go onto wonderful detail about each polar explorer and break down all their missions. Again, it’s a perfect thing to take a photo of to read later!

    Tromsø Historic Photos

    As you leave the exhibition to make your way back to the lobby, you’ll find some excellent historic photos of Tromsø. It’s incredible to see how small the town was just 150 years ago.

    Practical Information

    Local name

    Polarmuseet

    Getting Here

    The Polar Museum is located approximately 15-20 minutes on foot from the Coastal Ferry Terminal. It’s approximately five minutes from the end of the main shopping street, Storgata. The museum is located by the fish market on the harbour. 

    Admission & Prices

    You can view up-to-date prices by visiting their website: https://en.uit.no/tmu/polarmuseet

    Opening Hours

    The museum is open daily, with the opening hours being 11am to 5pm in the winter. 

    I recommend checking their website for up-to-date opening hours: https://en.uit.no/tmu/polarmuseet/planlegg

    Facilities

    There is no cafe here, but there is a lovely gift shop. The gift shop is excellent and has a huge selection of books on the Arctic. You can also pick up beautiful locally made souvenirs. 

    Guided Tours

    During the summer (1 June to 15 August), there are guided tours of the museum at 1pm. I do recommend going; the guides help put everything in context.

    Accessibility

    Unfortunately, since this is an old building, the museum is only wheelchair accessible on the ground floor, as there’s a set of stairs to the second floor. Even so, the ground floor is very narrow and can be crowded, so it’s not easy to navigate through.

    Final Thoughts on the Polar Museum

    Overall, I believe the Polar Museum is an important institution educating visitors about the Arctic’s history, wildlife, and the human spirit of exploration. It also underscores Tromsø’s identity as the Arctic capital and provides a sobering reflection on humanity’s interactions with the polar environment. While you may not agree with all the practices that took place here, it’s important to understand why and how it happened.

    The museum is a must on any visit to Tromsø!

    Be sure to check out my Tromsø travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the beautiful Arctic capital.