Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Bergen Events & Public Holidays 2025

    Bergen Events & Public Holidays 2025: What's Happening in Bergen This Year

    Nestled between majestic fjords and scenic mountains, Bergen is set to shine brighter than ever in 2025, offering a rich tapestry of cultural, musical, and artistic experiences. Whether you’re a local looking to explore your city’s vibrant pulse or a visitor eager to uncover its charm, this year promises something for everyone. From world-class music festivals and historic celebrations to cutting-edge art exhibitions and culinary showcases, Bergen’s calendar is brimming with events that will captivate and inspire. Join us as we dive into the must-see happenings and mark your schedule for an unforgettable year in Norway’s cultural capital.

    Be sure to check out my Bergen travel guide, where I put lots of information about what you can see and do in Bergen. 

    Table of Contents

    February 2025

    Bergen Seafood Festival (15 February)

    Norwegian seafood is at its best in winter, so it’s worth timing your winter trip with the Seafood Festival. Throughout the week, various restaurants will highlight unique seafood dishes. There are also special days where the chefs will give lessons on preparing and cooking different seafood dishes. However, the primary day is on the 15th of February, where stalls will spread around the fish market with excellent seafood for you to taste.

    You can view their website here: https://bergensjomatfestival.no/program-2024/

    March 2025

    6-9 March: Cine Latino

    The first film festival of the year is Cine Latino, which is a meeting place for Latin American culture. They show the best Latin American films but also have dances, food, music, panel discussions, and parties.

    View their website here: https://www.cinelatino.no/

    12-16 March: Borealis
    Borealis is a contemporary music festival with talks, films, literature and visual arts events. The goal of the festival is to discuss music and showcase modern forms of music.

    View their website here: https://www.borealisfestival.no/en/home/

    April 2025

    17, 18, 20, 21 April: Easter

    Easter is a big deal in Norway, and on these days expect shops and some restaurants to be closed. If you are driving or taking the train, it’s likely that it’ll be a little busier as many Norwegians use this time to head to the mountains and go skiing.

    26 April: Bergen City Marathon

    The Bergen City Marathon is in its 13th year and covers some of Bergen’s most famous places. I recommend getting a copy of the map and doing the trail (but in various stages) as you’ll pass by the best of Bergen.

    Practical information: the start and end line is at Bryggen, so it will be difficult to access Bryggen in the morning. Things will calm down after 2pm.

    View their website here: https://www.bergencitymarathon.no/en/

    May 2025

    1 May: Labour Day

    Norway has a public holiday on this day, so many shops will be closed. There will also be demonstrations and marches throughout the day.

    17 May: Constitution Day

    This is the most crucial day in Norway. If you are in Norway today, don’t bother planning any activities. Instead, go and watch the parades and enjoy the massive party.

    Practical information: The city will be packed until early afternoon, so don’t expect to be able to explore Bergen until then. It’s nearly impossible to get around!

    21 May – 4 June: Bergen International Festival

    The Bergen International Festival (called ‘Festspillene’ in Norwegian) is the largest arts festival in Bergen. There are over 150 events ranging from music to dance, opera to visual art, and so on. Many significant events sell out in advance, so book online early.

    23 – 31 May: Natt Jazz

    Natt Jazz is the longest jazz festival in Northern Europe. The main festival area is an old sardine factory, USF Verftet (United Sardines Factory), which now houses several concert venues, exhibitions, theatre, cinema, and artist studios.

    The music profile of Nattjazz spans a wide range of styles, primarily focusing on modern jazz. During Nattjazz, the borderlines between jazz, rock, ethnic, and electronica are explored and often erased. The children also get their share!

    26 May 2025: 7 Mountain Hike Day

    This is an essential event for many locals, and the city is extra busy on this day. It’s a seven-mountain fun run that covers approximately 30km. The route covers Bergen’s seven mountains. If it’s too much, you can do the three or five mountain hike instead.

    29 May: Ascension Day

    This is a public holiday in Norway.

    31 May 2025: Bergen to Voss Cycle Race

    This popular cycling race will draw many people to the city. The route is 170km, from Bergen to the ski resort in Voss.

    June 2025

    1-8 June: Bergen Gay Pride

    The “Rainbow Days” (Regnbuedagene) is a week-long festival that promotes gay pride in the city. It includes panel discussions and debates, concerts, art shows, and film screenings. The parade takes place on June 8th.

    8 June: Pentecost

    This is a public holiday in Norway

    9 June: Whit Monday

    This is a public holiday in Norway.

    11-14 June: Bergenfest

    Bergenfest is the largest music festival of the year, and the fortress area will be closed off during the festival. You can buy day tickets or festival passes if you wish to attend.

    July 2025

    30 July – 2 August: Beyond the Gates

    Beyond the Gates is Bergen’s metal music festival. The festival takes place across various locations in Bergen and draws fans from all over the world. During this time, expect to see a lot of metalheads walking around Bergen. There’s also different events on metal culture, including guided tours, art displays, and a tattoo festival.

    August 2025

    22-23 August: Feelings Festival

    Feelings Festival is Bergen’s newest music festival. This outdoor festival takes place at Bergenhus Fortress and has pop, hip-hop and EDM music. The fortress area will be closed during the festival.

    September 2025

    5-6 September: Bergen Food Festival

    This is a beloved event in the city, where farmers and businesses from the fjord region descend into Bergen to promote their products. You’ll find food stalls where you can buy local foods straight from the small business owner.

    At Festplassen you’ll find a marketplace of various foods including vegetables, fruits, verries, cheeses, meats and seafood.

    The festival also hosts the Norwegian Cider Festival at the ‘cider park’ (adjacent to Festplassen). You can try cider from around the country as well as other local beverages, including local beers, gins, and aquavit.

    Additionally, over 30 restaurants will adjust their menus to promote local ingredients.

    12-13 September: Bergen Beer Festival

    The Bergen Beer Festival is an excellent time to sample various microbreweries from across Norway. The Beer Festival is held at USF Verftet.

    October 2025

    15-23 October: Bergen International Film Festival

    The Bergen International Film Festival is one of Norway’s largest film festivals. The main focus are documentary films from around the world, but you can also catch fictional and short films here. Various cinemas are used around the city.

    November 2025

    Mid-November to the End of December: Gingerbread Village

    The World’s Largest Gingerbread Village (“Pepperkakebyen”) is built in Bergen for the period from mid-November until the end of December. It’s one of the most popular places to visit over the Christmas period.

    Mid-November: Lysfest

    The Festival of Lights (“Lysfest”) takes place around mid-November every year and it is the event where the Christmas tree is lit in Bergen. There’s also live music, entertainment, and a fireworks display.

    Mid-November – Mid December: Christmas Market

    The Christmas Market is held annually in Bergen every year from around mid-November until just before Christmas. Here you’ll find stalls to buy handicrafts and try local foods as well as typical Christmas foods. There are also some rides for kids.

    December 2025

    25 December: Christmas Day
    This is a public holiday in Norway.

    26 December: St. Stephens Day
    This is a public holiday in Norway.

  • Visiting the Viking Museum at Borg in Lofoten

    Visiting the Viking Museum at Borg

    The Borg Viking Museum is one of the most fascinating museums about the Viking Age. It brings the Viking Age to life through archaeological finds, immersive experiences, and historic reconstructions. Nestled in the dramatic Lofoten Islands region, the museum is a highlight of any road trip through Lofoten.

    This museum isn’t your standard history museum. Here, you can participate in activities, sail a Viking ship, visit the largest Viking home ever discovered, see archaeological finds, learn Viking arts and crafts, eat Viking food, and try the drink of the gods: mead.

    I’ve brought groups to the Viking Museum a few times. The most popular part is the longhouse, where you can get hands-on and feel like a Viking. However, I always preferred the archaeological museum. As you can see, the museum has something for everyone!

    I’ve compiled this guide to help you make the most of your time at the Viking Museum in Borg. 

    In this article...

    Archaeological Discovery

    In 1983, while a farmer was ploughing his fields, remains of what were believed to be a Viking settlement were discovered at Borg in Lofoten. The excavation lasted around six years, and during the excavation the largest Viking longhouse was discovered. Archaeologists realized that this was the home of a powerful Viking chieftain who had ruled Lofoten. The settlement was dated to around 500AD and was in use until 950AD, when it was abandoned. The large amount of wealthy items showed that this was a powerful home, and that they were trading with people from far away. There are several different sites in the area, indicating that there were settlements before and after the Viking times. When the excavation was concluded, it was decided to turn the site into a museum and reconstruct the longhouse. This became the Viking Museum as we have it today!

    What You See at the Museum

    There’s a lot to see and do here, especially in summer. The museum consists of the following:
    – A full-scale reconstruction of the Viking longhouse
    – Two Viking ships
    – Two exhibition halls
    – A movie theatre
    – A blacksmiths forge
    – Boathouses
    – Two cafes
    – Souvenir shop
    Animals

    The Longhouse

    The reconstructed longhouse is based on finds at the nearby archaeological site. Measuring over 80 metres in length (the size of the archaeological find), the reconstruction has been built using traditional materials and techniques. Inside, the house is divided into different sections showing different aspects of Viking life. 80 metres in length, the original structure was unearthed during an excavation in the 1980s. The replica has been constructed using traditional materials and techniques. Inside, the longhouse is divided into different sections showing different aspects of Viking life, from communal living spaces to storerooms and a feast all. In the summer months, and sometimes in the winter, there are staff dressed up to resemble Vikings and they will talk about their life in this building.

    The house is divided into different sections, as it would’ve been during Viking times. The living quarters is where everyone slept and where work was done, and food was cooked. The feast hall was the centre of events and where celebrations and rituals took place. The most precious finds from the excavation were concentrated at the feast hall. The barn during the Viking Age would’ve been for livestock. In the current reconstruction, it has an exhibition of sculptures and figures from Norse mythology.

    Inside you’ll find people dressed up in Viking costume doing handicrafts or explaining Viking culture.

    You can learn more about the longhouse here: https://www.museumnord.no/en/stories/the-chieftains-house-at-borg/

    While in the longhouse, you can participate in hands-on activities, including traditional crafts such as weaving or blacksmithing, or you can play Viking games. During the summer months, the museum has live demonstrations of Viking combat techniques, shipbuilding, and other skills.

    2020 me sure made the Vikings look very, very uncool!

    Outdoor Attractions

    The walk down to the harbour area takes around twenty minutes, and it’s important to know that it is not open in the winter months. The museum has two Viking ships (copies of the Gokstad ship in Oslo), a reconstructed forge, a boathouse and ironworks. The ships do scenic cruises in the summertime. Also, in summer you can try your hand at some Viking warrior and hunting skills. There are two stations where you can try shooting with a bow and arrow and learn how to throw an ax at a target. In Viking times, the blacksmith had an important role, making arrowheads and spearheads, iron rivets and other tools in use around the settlement.

    There is even a farm here! You can see various historic breeds, including Nordland horses, Nordland cattle, wild sheep, and wild boar.

    You can find more information (and a map) here: https://www.lofotr.no/en/outdoor-area/

    Indoor Museum

    Back indoors, you can visit the indoor exhibition to see items that were found during the excavation. These include tools, jewellery, and weaponry. The indoor exhibition is divided into three parts. Firstly, there is a room about the discovery and excavation of the longhouse. Then, you watch a film about the people and events at Borg during the Viking Age. Finally, there is the collection of archaeological finds from Borg. The movie, “The Dream of Borg”, is honestly a little cheesy – but I like it anyway! The film is based on interpretations of the Viking King Olav Tvennumbrunni and the unification of Norway under one king, and recreates an interpretation of the life and atmosphere of Borg during the Viking Age.

    It’s recommended to use the audio guide here, as the guide tells the story of the discovery here and explains in detail what you’re looking at.

    You can get a detailed overview of the Viking finds here: https://www.lofotr.no/en/archaeological-finds/

    Lofotr Viking Festival

    Every year in August, the Lofotr Viking Festival is held. There are games, stories, competitions, a market, theatre, music and more. There are also courses and educational activities.

    Viking Feast

    Every evening the museum offers a special Viking-style dinner. You can find out more information on their website: https://www.lofotr.no/en/food-drink/

    Practical Information

    Local Name

    Lofotr Vikingmuseum

    Admission Prices

    Tickets vary according to the season (at the moment they are 200 NOK in winter and 250 NOK in summer per person). Discounts are available for students and seniors.

    You can find the current ticket prices here: https://www.lofotr.no/en/find-us/

    Opening Hours

    The museum is open all year round, but hours vary depending on the season. You can find current opening hours here: https://www.lofotr.no/en/find-us/

    Audio Guides

    The audio guide system has translations in Norwegian, English, German, French, Spanish and Italian. You load it up onto your smart phone and then connect to the free wifi.

    Guided Tours

    If you can, I encourage booking a guided tour. Your guide will greet you at the museum entrance and he/she will be dressed up in the Viking gear. Their knowledge is excellent and really brings the setting to life.

    Facilities

    The museum shop here is excellent, especially if you want something Viking themed. You can by jewellery based on the excavations, a Viking Age board game called Hnefatafl, wooden swords, children’s toys, shirts, knitted goods, soap, creams, foodstuffs, and a huge selection of bookings about the Vikings in all languages.

    There are two cafes here. Skjeltersjåen is located by the Vikingship harbour and has various Viking style dishes as well as hot and cold drinks. This café only opens in the summer. In the main museum building is the museum café, with meals prepared according to ingredients available to the Vikings. There’s also hot and cold drinks, waffles and ice cream.

    Parking

    There is a large parking lot by the museum. To get to the museum, a bit of up-hill walking is involved. 

    Final Thoughts on the Viking Museum at Borg

    The Borg Viking Museum is more than just another history museum; it is a fascinating way to learn about the Viking Age. Through its combination of educational exhibitions, interactive experiences, and spectacular surroundings, the museum has is a must-see in Lofoten.

    I love museums that are interactive and have actual objects from the time period. I’m not a fan of screens and replicas. While the longhouse isn’t original, the amount of effort and love that has gone into it makes it very good to see. Also, the fact that it’s where a Viking longhouse was discovered brings a lot to the authenticity of the structure.

    Be sure to check out my Svolvær travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the Lofoten Islands. 

  • Preparation & Embarking the Hurtigruten in Bergen

    Preparation & Embarking the Hurtigruten

    If you’re reading this article, there’s a good chance you’ll be embarking on a Hurtigruten voyage out of Bergen – lucky you! Often considered the world’s most beautiful voyage, the Hurtigruten is a daily ferry service that goes from Bergen to Kirkenes, and then back again. Along the way, the ship stops in 34 wonderful ports over 6 days. Once in Kirkenes, the ship repeats the same journey back south to Bergen.

    Embarkation day can be a stressful day, especially since information isn’t always exactly clear. However, I have done the Hurtigruten enough times to have a clear understanding of exactly how this day works. So, here is my guide to preparing for and embarking the Hurtigruten from the port of Bergen. 

    Embarking the Hurtigruten in Bergen

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Bergen is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Why trust me?

    I’ve been taking travellers on the Hurtigruten since 2019! I love taking the Hurtigruten so much that I have even taken it for a vacation. I believe it is one of the best ways to see Norway, and I encourage everyone to do the voyage at least once in their lifetimes. 

    Above you can see some of the cabin cards I’ve collected over the years. 

    Preparing to Board

    Before you even get on board, there are lot of questions about what you need to pack, what to expect on board, and just generally how things work. Here are some of the key things you need to know ahead of boarding: 

    Important! Hurtigruten FAQ

    Hurtigruten has an excellent FAQ page that you should read as well.

    You can find it here: https://www.hurtigruten.com/en/practical-information/coastal-express

    What currency is used on board? Can I use my credit card?

    The currency used on board is Norwegian Kroner (NOK). It may be possible to exchange currencies on board, but you may not get the best rate. There is a Forex in Bergen should you wish to get currency exchanged in advance.

    That said, you do not need cash on this voyage. On the ship you can pay for everything with bank card. In fact, when you check in at the Bergen terminal the staff will encourage you to open a cruise account. With a cruise account, your credit card is synced to your cabin card and you make all purchases onboard using your cabin number or cabin card. On the last night on board, the amount is charged to your credit card.

    The only time you may want cash is to leave a tip. There is a tip box in the restaurant where you can put cash.

    Is there a dress code on board?

    No. You can wear whatever you like on the ship, and that’s one of the reasons I love it. There’s no formal nights, but if you are on board for the Captains Dinner (Day 10), you may want to bring something nice to wear. But generally the atmosphere is laid back and relaxed.

    What do I do if I have allergies, dietary requirements, or need to keep medication in a fridge?

    Each night at dinner you get to choose between a meat, fish or vegetarian meal, and there are plenty of vegetarian and vegan options at breakfast and lunch. If you have a special diet or allergy, you need to alert the restaurant manager outside the restaurant when you board the ship. It’s also possible to alert them in advance when you book, but I would recommend double checking on board.

    If you have medication that needs to be refrigerated, there are no fridges in the cabins. Rather, simply give them to reception who will store them in a fridge for you.

    What electrical adapters should I bring?

    The sockets used on board are the 220v AC, two-pin Continental type. Basically, standard European plugs. The ship doesn’t offer adapters, so it’s important to come prepared. In Bergen, you can pick them up at sports store or electrical stores.

    Is there a laundry?

    There is a laundry on the ship with washing machines, dryers and irons. To use the machines, you purchase tokens from reception (for approximately 30 NOK) and put them into the washing machine. The detergent is in the machine already. The dryers are used for free.

    What should I pack that I may not be thinking of?

    Bringing a swimming costume and gym clothes. Some of the ships have hot tubs on board and all have gyms. Also, there are towels and hair wash/body wash in your rooms.

    You may also want to bring a lanyard to hold the cabin card. They do sell them on board, but if you have one at home it’s worth bringing it.

    I highly recommend bringing ear plugs and a sleep mask (if travelling in summer). The ship is noisy in the middle of the night, and you will get woken up when docking in the ports. Bring some ear plugs to tone down the noise. Why a sleep mask? Well, in summer it’s light 24/7. While the curtains do an okay job at blocking out the light, I find it just isn’t dark enough. 

    Hurtigruten Day-By-Day Guide

    Did you know I’ve written a day-by-day guide for Hurtigruten? You should read that after you’re done with this! Check it out by clicking the link below. 

    Hurtigruten Day-by-day Guide

    My Hurtigruten book will be coming out in May 2025 🙂 If you want to be notified when that’s released, follow me on Facebook:

    My Facebook Page

    Embarking Hurtigruten in Bergen

    Alright, you’re packed and ready to go. You’ve arrived in Bergen, and now you need to get to the ship. What do you do? Here’s the step-by-step guide!

    When is the terminal open?

    The terminal is open from 1pm to 8pm on departure days.

    Getting from the airport to the terminal

    The journey from the airport to the terminal takes approximately 45 minutes if you take the Flybussen (Airport Bus). You take it from platform A5 in front of the arrivals hall. You can find exact times on their website: https://www.flybussen.no/en

    If you take a taxi, the drive time is approximately 20 minutes. Be careful which company you take; some companies charge 20% more than others. If you want to take a taxi, I recommend downloading the 07000 Bergen Taxi app and booking a taxi. You can book once you pick up your suitcase; it typically takes the taxi 2-3 minutes to appear at the “preordered taxi” pick up zone.

    Getting from a hotel to the terminal

    The terminal is located a little ways outside the city centre, so I recommend booking a taxi (use the same method as mentioned above).

    Storing luggage at the terminal

    You can store luggage at the terminal. The luggage lockers are on the first floor of the terminal and can be paid for by credit card. It is possible to drop off the luggage between 1pm and 2:30pm.

    What time should you arrive?

    You can arrive at the terminal any time after 1pm, but I do encourage waiting until the evening. I know, it’s very exciting boarding Hurtigruten and seeing the ship, but the terminal itself is not so fun. Bergen is a great place – stay in town and explore!

    Tip – while the terminal opens at 1pm, do not come and try to check in between 2:45pm and 3:15pm. This is when the ship is arriving and the passengers are disembarking. To put it mildly, it will be chaos. 

    In Bergen, the embarkation time if 4pm (16:00). However, that doesn’t mean you have to board at 4pm. In fact, you can board as late as 8pm if you really wanted.

    I recommend boarding the ship between 5pm and 7pm. The reason is that the cabins are not ready until 6pm, and that’s the same time the buffet dinner is served. If you arrive before then, you’ll basically just be sitting around on the ship. The Expedition Team may not yet be on board ready to take excursion bookings. So really, you’re just sitting around. Bergen is a pretty wonderful place, so go out and enjoy it!

    I Love Bergen Walking Tours

    I operate walking tours in Bergen and you should absolutely do one while you’re in the city! 

    Click here for more information. 

    The Hurtigruten Guest Lounge

    The Hurtigruten Guest Lounge is located on the second floor of the terminal and is open from 1pm. There are some pastries and drinks that you can have, as well as free Wifi, USB chargers and sockets.

    When checking in at the terminal in Bergen, you simply have to hand over a form of identification, which in most cases is your passport. You will then get the envelope with your cabin card and some practical information inside. The reception will then ask if you want to sync your credit card to your cabin card. While I highly recommend doing it here, keep in mind you can also do it at the reception on board the ship.

    This is the envelope you receive. On the bottom left side, you have all the meal times of that day (lunch changes every day so be sure to double check). The dinner time is your set time, and the table is your assigned table. Remember – this is not for the first night in Bergen! Night one in Bergen is free seating and a buffet, so come whenever you want.

    In the bottom right, there’s all my practical information.

    In the top right, the “SEL” means “Select” package – I paid a little extra for coffee/tea and free Wifi. The Wifi slip is in the envelope. 

    My cabin number is also written here. This is important – it’s not written on your cabin card! This is for safety reasons. 

    Here is what the cabin card looks like. You can see SEL on the cabin card – this is important as the staff will ask to check this when you get coffee or tea. I can also see the dates I’m board, where I’m embarking and disembarking, and what meals I get. It also says that I’m an Ambassador Member, i.e. in their loyalty program. I’m sure that gets me extra benefits, I’ve just never used them. 

    What happens with your luggage?

    Unless you are embarking or disembarking the ship at the terminal in Bergen, you need to carry your own luggage on and off the ship at all the other ports.

    In Bergen, you drop off your luggage when checking in at the counter in the terminal. They put it on a luggage belt, like at an airport, and it goes to the back of the terminal where crew take it on the ship and put it outside your cabin.

    The Safety Briefing

    It is a safety requirement that all passengers attend the safety briefing inside the terminal at Bergen. Once you have checked in and dropped off your luggage, you take the escalator to the upper floor, where there’s a waiting room. Inside the waiting room are free snacks and drinks to keep you happy while you wait.

    If you’re boarding after 5pm, the safety briefings are pretty frequent. If boarding before 5pm, you may be waiting 30 minutes or more for the next briefing. They only run when there’s enough people ready to board.

    The briefing lasts for about 10 minutes and includes a video in Norwegian, English, German and sometimes French. It includes a demonstration of how to put on a life jacket and the instructions to be followed in the event of an evacuation.

    Going on Board

    Once the safety briefing is over, they’ll scan your cabin card so they know you’ve attended the briefing. Then, you’ll walk through the terminal (it’s a long walk!) to get to the place where you board the ship, You’ll have to scan your cabin card again; this time, it’s scanning you in so the staff know you’re on board.

    In Bergen, you embark on Deck 5. Normally once you embark, there is a counter promoting the drinks packages. From Deck 5, head down one level to Deck 4, which is where the reception, expedition team, and restaurant is.

    Wifi

    Yes, one of the first things people want is Wifi! Completely understandable.

    If you have a SEL package, or your documents say you have Wifi included, you’ll get a special Wifi slip in your envelope. About 30% of the time the staff have forgot to put mine in the envelope, which is fine. If this happens to you, just go and ask reception (Deck 4) for one. They’ll give it to you no issues 🙂

    Wifi is a bit of a pain to use as many don’t see that you have to log in two separate times. 

    First you connect to the Wifi on your device and enter the first password on the slip. Then, a popup window will come asking for a username and password. That’s where you enter the second username and password on the slip. Many people (myself included!) miss that.

    Now – the Wifi works fine. However, if you have data in Norway, you may just want to stick on 4G/5G – especially if you have unlimited. I find my 5G (Norwegian Simcard) is faster than the Wifi. 

    Dinner

    The first nights dinner is always a buffet dinner. Dinner opens at 6pm and I highly recommend going early; if you wait until after 7pm, it can get very crowded. Dinner often closes at 9pm. You do not sit in your assigned seats on this day.

    Sail Away

    When the ship leaves at 8:30pm, the expedition team and crew will normally have a little party out on the open deck, where they sell champagne. If the weather is miserable in Bergen, they may not do this. 

    Welcome Meeting

    Normally after the departure from Bergen, perhaps at 9pm or 9:30pm, the expedition team will have their first meeting. I highly recommend going to this!

    During this meeting, you’ll get an introduction to the crew (they come and say hi), the layout of the ship, and important practical information that you need to know. Trust me, it’s worth going to this meeting. It lasts up to 40 minutes.

    Daily Schedule

    Before going to bed, be sure to check out the daily schedule for the following day. This can be found on television screens all around the ship. Some ships also print the daily schedule. 

    Be sure to not only look at the schedule to see which ports you’re docking in, what the lectures are, and so on, but there are also the meal times on the right side. 

    Time for Bed!

    It’s been a long day, and normally by the time the meeting is over you’re done and ready for bed. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Bergen is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

  • Everything You Need to Know When Visiting Nidaros Cathedral

    Everything You Need to Know About Nidaros Cathedral

    Nidaros Cathedral (“Nidarosdomen” in Norwegian) is one of Norway’s most iconic and historically significant landmarks. It serves as a magnificent example of Gothic and Romanesque architecture and is important in Norwegian culture, religion and history.

    It’s practically impossible to visit Trondheim without paying a visit to Nidaros Cathedral. But what do you actually see there? Well, I have been here so many times and have found something new about the cathedral every time. So, in this guide, I’ve put together an overview of the cathedral plus what you can see if you go inside.

    A more detailed overview will be available in my Hurtigruten book, coming in May 2025. 

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Trondheim is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Why is Nidaros Cathedral So Important?

    In short, Nidaros Cathedral is so important as it is the burial church of Norway’s patron Saint Olav. The cathedral is also where the royal family are coronated.

    Nidaros Cathedral is a cathedral in a European context, though in size it cannot compare to the largest and most magnificent cathedrals in Europe. Of the medieval bishoprics in the Norwegian ecclesiastical province, only Stavanger Cathedral and the Magnus Cathedral on the Orkney Islands have survived. The cathedral in Bergen has almost completely disappeared, and the cathedrals in Oslo and Hamar are in ruins. Nidaros Cathedral is also the only church in Norway that has a fully developed Gothic basilica form.

    Nidaros Cathedral is Europe’s northernmost medieval cathedral.

    Standing outside Nidaros Cathedral in 2021

    Historic Overview of Nidaros Cathedral

    Christianity & St. Olav

    Christianity came to Norway in the 9th and 10th centuries, arriving from the south (via Denmark) and from the British Isles. The influence from the British Isles is particularly important, and the first Norwegian kings were baptised in England.

    Even though Norway was influenced by Christianity for a few centuries throughout the Viking period, it wasn’t until Olav Haraldsson that Christianity became permanent. Also, Olav Haraldsson became St Olav – whose casket was placed at Nidaros Cathedral. 

    Olav Haraldsson was born in 995 and at the age of 12 set off to England on a Viking raid. During his time in England, he discovered Christianity and was baptised in 1014. He then returned to Norway with a mission: convert the Norwegians. He crowned himself King and then travelled around the country forcing Christianity on the pagans, or he threatened them with death. Eventually his strict reign created enemies, and he was forced to flee Norway in 1028. He came back a year later in an attempt to retake the throne, but at Stiklestad (a region north of Trondheim), his opponents lay in waiting with a huge army. After an intense battle, on the 29th of July 1030, Olav was killed. 

    His body was transferred to Trondheim and buried in a sandbank. It is believed to have been roughly where Nidaros Cathedral’s high altar is today.

    Rumours quickly spread that miracles had occurred by the kings body, and that Olav was holy. Around one year after his burial, the coffin was removed and opened. The kings body appeared unchanged as if he had just died, and his hair and nails had grown. 

    Olav was proclaimed a saint and his coffin was placed on the high altar at St. Clements Church. A wooden chapel was built on the place where he had been buried, and a spring arose from there that had healing properties. Countless miracles were happening and the casked of St. Olav became an important pilgrimage site. 

    Founding & Construction of Nidaros Cathedral

    As the casket of St. Olav continued to develop as an important pilgrimage site, it was decided to build a better church. Around 1070, King Olav Kyrre had a larger Christian church built. It was made of stone and completed around 1090. Olav’s coffin with the body inside stood on the high altar. 

    However, it wasn’t enough and by 1152 there were plans to expand the church into a large cathedral. The work proceeded quickly, and the southern transept was consecrated by Archbishop Øystein Erlendsson in 1161. The transept still has its Romanesque features today. 

    After a brief period of exile, Archbishop Øystein returned from England in 1183 and had the building style of Nidaros Cathedral changed to Gothic. The cathedral was completed around 1300 and this is when it got the layout we see today. The transept, Chapter House, and large parts of the octagon are the work of Archbishop Øystein. 

    Church-spiration?

    There are many churches that served as a role model for Nidaros Cathedral. Strong influence can be seen from Lincoln Cathedral (click here for a model of Lincoln Cathedral – notice the similarity?) and the choir of Canterbury Cathedral (click here for a picture). However, there’s also inspiration from French churches, such as Notre Dame in Paris. 

    Pilgrim sign

    Worshipping St. Olav & Pilgrimage

    The church and St. Olav’s grave became an important pilgrimage destination for the whole of Europe. It was Olav’s status as a saint that made pilgrims flock to Nidaros Cathedral.

    In the Middle Ages, the cathedral was the centre of the Catholic religion in Norway. The Archbishops Court, which was the Archbishops residence, was built immediately south of the cathedral.

    The Fires & Restoration Work

    Soon after the cathedral was completed, it burned in the first major fire in 1328. The fire heavily damaged the cathedral, with most of the columns and crockets having to be replaced. A lot of the interior and exterior woodwork had been destroyed, along with the bells, stone arches, stone columns, and many valuable items. 

    The church was restored after the fire, and today the only visible remains of the reconstruction are the chancel arch walls and part of the arcades in the octagons central space. The style shows that English architecture was still a major influence. 

    Restoration work was completed in 1349, the same year the Black Death to Norway. All the priests along with Archbishop Arne Vade died, as well as a large part of Trondheim’s population. For the next 80 years, little is known of what was done to the cathedral.

    In 1432, the tower was struck by lightning and all interior and exterior woodwork caught fire and was destroyed. None of the work from this restoration is visible today. 

    Throughout the 15th century there was political instability, so little was done to the cathedral. In 1510, Erik Walkendorf was appointed as the new archbishop, and he set out restoring the cathedral. He restored the octagon and also ensured the Olav Shrine was made grander. 

    However, these efforts were short lived. In 1531, a fire broke out in Trondheim and the cathedral (with the city) burned to the ground. The damage was extensive and a restoration work quickly began. In the choir, the middle aisle walls were demolished and rebuilt with massive plain walls. However, work had to stop as the Reformation had begun. 

    The Reformation & Abandoning the Cathedral

    In 1536, the Danish King Christian III won a battle and adopted Martin Luther’s teachings. Catholicism in Denmark and Norway was abolished, and bishops were arrested. The last Catholic Archbishop in Trondheim, Olav Engelbrektsson, fled the country on the 1st of April 1537. The cathedral’s treasures and shrine were plundered by the king’s soldiers and the metal was melted down into coins. The Olav Shrine was removed, the pilgrims were no more, and the cathedral looked like an empty shell.

    In 1564, the cathedral was plundered by Swedish soldiers, who stripped it of its remaining valuables. 

    After the Reformation, the cathedral became a parish church for Trondheim and was the main centre of the Lutheran religion. 

    At the beginning of the 17th century, the cathedral was in poor condition. It was partly restored in a Baroque style, which became popular in Trondheim. From 1625, private individuals were allowed to purchase burial sites within the cathedral, and the city’s wealthiest families saw it as a way to have their status acknowledged. Crypts were built beneath the floors, and over the next 200 years, hundreds of coffins were placed around Nidaros Cathedral. 

    Later Fires

    During the town fire of 1708, the cathedral burned (except for the stone walls). The church was struck by lightning in 1719 and sat in ruins with decaying walls and fears that the cathedral may collapse. The walls were patched up and whitewashed to conceal their decay. The marble columns had disappeared and were replaced by white-painted wooden columns. 

    It has been said that the cathedral’s and country’s history reflect each other: when the country had its period of greatness, the cathedral is at is most magnificent. When the country was in decline and decay, so was the cathedral. 

    Restoration

    In 1814 Norway became a separate state, though in union with Sweden. Interest in the country’s old, historic monuments began. This was particularly the case with Nidaros Cathedral, which had been included in Norway’s Constitution in 1814 as the coronation church for the king. 

    In 1833, a stone fell from the vault above the altar. This led to the first examination of the cathedral by an architect. In the following years, several initiatives were taken regarding the restoration of the cathedral. It was decided that the cathedral should go back to its medieval appearance.

    A major restoration of the cathedral began in 1869, led by architect H.E. Schirmer. However, there was a lot of criticism towards him as he was taking too many creative liberties, so he was replaced with Christian Christie in 1872. 

    Almost 90 men worked on the restoration work including 50 stonemasons. The Western Front, which was basically in ruins, was completed in 1965. It was not until 2001 that restoration work was officially finished, though the cathedral is under constant maintenance to replace bad stone and strengthen weak points. 

    Visiting the Cathedral

    It costs money to go inside the cathedral, which can be bought from the visitor centre. Inside, you are allowed to take photos (but no flash). 

    There are no information signs around the cathedral, so I recommend picking up a guide book at the visitor centre. My guide below is a summary of what you can see. 

    The Western Front

    Before we even enter, let’s discuss the Western Front. It’s believed to have been inspired by English cathedrals. After the fire of 1531, the Western Front was left in ruins and most of what you see today is from the 19th century restoration. 

    Click here to see a photo of what the Western Front looked like when restoration started. 

    The Western Front has 76 sculptures and only five were preserved at the time of restoration (they are now in the Archbishops Residence Museum). The way it’s designed is that it is a tree, in which the central trunk (or axis) is Christ, with representations of his story. The rows of statues spread out like a tree. In the lowest row are the apostles and champions of Christianity, including those in Norway. In the second row, there are scenes from the Old and New Testaments with virtues. At the end of the row, there are saints from the archdiocese of Nidaros, including St. Olav & Archbishop Øystein. The third and uppermost row contains 16 large, seated statues. There are Christs ancestors in the form of Old Testament Kings of Israel. Furthest out sit five prophets and patriarchs. 

    Many of the sculptures are portraits of famous people in the sculptors time. For example, St Klemens is a portrait of the poet Olav Aukrust. Bishop Sigurd has three severed heads on a platter, and they feature the three architects of Nidaros Cathedral’s restoration. The bronze sculpture at the very top, by Kristofer Leirdal, bear’s Bob Dylan’s facial features. 

    There is a Wiki dedicated to what all the sculptures are, so I won’t go into it here. You can click here to see the overview of all the sculptures. 

    The Nave

    You enter the cathedral into the nave. The nave is one of the ‘newer’ parts of the cathedral, as construction here begun in 1248 under Archbishop Sigurd Eindridesson. The style is in High Gothic and has a clear English influence. For example, the angel reliefs on the archways may refer to the ‘angel choir’ in Lincoln Cathedral (click here for a photo) and Westminster Abbey. Most of the reliefs have been damaged or destroyed. The best preserved one, which depicts the archangel Michael in battle with the devil, is on display at the Archbishops Residence Museum. 

    After the fire of 1531, the nave was left a roofless ruin and the interior began to collapse. During the 18th century, the vaults in the nave collapsed. When restoration began, most of the nave had gone. The new reliefs in the nave were made by Gustav Vigeland (yes, that Gustav Vigeland) and Wilhelm Rasmussen between 1900 and 1910. 

    Romanesque details on the north transept

    North Transept

    The transept in the northern side (as you’re walking down towards the octagon, it’s on your left) is known as the lecture hall and was completed around 1130-1150. It has the name because the Cathedral School was located here at one period, perhaps in the Middle Ages.

    The northern portal is in the Anglo Norman style, the version of Romanesque architecture that was developed in Normandy and England in the 11th century. The portal has zigzag borders, folding capitals, and lion masks. It’s one of the best places in the cathedral to see the Romanesque architecture. 

    Here you’ll find a memorial for the women who lost their lives during World War II. There’s also a memorial for all the Norwegian kings that were likely buried at Nidaros Cathedral. 

    South Transept

    The chapel on the southern side is the Johanneskapellet (John the Baptist Chapel). An inscription shows that it was consecrated by Archbishop Øystein in 1161 – this is the only inscription found in the cathedral with a year that can be used for dating. 

    The altar is made in Italian marble by the sculptor Harald Wårvik in 1985. The paintings on the two wall cabinets were made in 2006 and take themes from the story of John the Baptist. On the floor is a memorial plate for Thomas Angell and his family (Angell was a very wealthy man from Trondheim who left his fortune to the city after his death). 

    On the southern side is a Sami altar. The altar was designed by Folke Fjallstrom and is made of oiled birch and adorned with Sami ornamentation. 

    You can also see a standard here – a royal flag with the Norwegian coat of arms. This flag flew on the HMS Norfolk, the British ship that carried King Haakon VII home to Norway from England on the 7th of June 1945 after Norway had been liberated. 

    There is also a British flag hanging here – this flag flew on the ship HMS Mackay when it arrived in Trondheim on the 16th of May 1945 to assist in the liberation; it was the first allied ship to assist in the liberation of Norway. 

    The Choir

    You are now entering the older part of the cathedral. The choir was built in two periods – the first from 1140 until 1180 and the second around the year 1200. The choir is in the Gothic style and shows a lot of similarity to Lincoln Cathedral (click here for a photo of Lincoln Cathedral’s nave). 

    The side aisles were used for processions and for those who wanted to visit the octagon and the Olav Shrine so the clergy wouldn’t be disturbed. 

    After the fire in 1531, the walls either collapsed or were in such a bad state that they had to be demolished. New, thicker middle aisle walls were built. These walls were demolished in the 1880s, revealing large parts of the original 13th century middle aisle walls that were used as filling in the walls and thus survived. Parts of the original stones were used in the restoration of the middle aisle. 

    Here you can see the soapstone font, which is a gift from 1905. It is a reconstruction of the remains of a font or fountain that were uncovered during the renovation. The font was made by Gustav Vigeland. 

    The Chapter House

    The Chapter House is a freestanding chapel on the northern side of the choir. It was completed around the 1160s and was probably used to house relics and valuable items.

    The style here is different to the transept. There are rich images here, such as water-lily leaves. This is commonly found in the monasteries of Cistercian monks. The Chapter House has no sculptures, which is also typical of Cistercian monasteries. Here you’ll find both Romanesque and Gothic arches – the first examples in Norway of such a style. The details suggest inspiration from York Cathedral, or the stonemasons came from there. 

    The only medieval furniture that has survived can be found here. It is a small chest where the canons chair robes were kept. On one side has been painted “for my age, I am honoured. Anno 1304”. 

    Stonemasons mark

    The Octagon

    This is the oldest and most important part of the cathedral. It’s believed the octagon was the idea of Archbishop Øystein. At Canterbury Cathedral, a martyrdom for Thomas Becket was under construction (click here for more information), and it may have given inspiration to the Nidaros Cathedral octagon. It may have also been inspired by the structure around Jesus’ tomb in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem. 

    The columns and crockets around the octagon are unique and can only be found in two places in Europe – at Nidaros Cathedral and at Lincoln Cathedral (click here). On the octagon’s exterior are delicate flying buttresses which extend from the outer wall to the wall of the central space, in order to take the weight of the vaulting. This is an important element in Gothic architecture and the first such example to be found in Scandinavia.

    The walls here are richly decorated with stonemasonry, more than any other building in Norway. They combine elements of Romanesque architecture with newer elements.

    Inside the octagon is a blind arcade, i.e. a decorative archway with pointed arches and lace decoration. The purpose of the design is to create a passage for the pilgrims who would come to see Olav’s casket. 

    On the walls of the octagon you’ll find carvings and signatures made by both the stone masons and pilgrims waiting in line.

    Here you find the Olavsantensalet, which was created in Norway in the early 14th century. 

    The High Altar in the octagon was made in 1883. The shape is supposed to be reminiscent of the Olav Shrine from the Middle Ages. 

    This is also where the healing spring is supposed to have come from. You’ll find it tucked away in a corner, with people leaving coins here. 

    The Glass Windows

    It’s worth also adding the glass windows, as they are quite distinctive. 

    There were no windows remaining when the restoration work began in the 19th century. They are made by Gabriel Kielland and date back to the early 20th century. The windows are inspired by French cathedrals, especially Chartres Cathedral. You’ll notice they are quite dark; this is because Kielland travelled through France and assumed the windows in France were purposely dark. However, the French had not cleaned the windows! That’s why the windows in the cathedral are so dark. 

    It’s not known if the original Nidaros Cathedral had a rose window, and there was an intense debate during restoration if this cathedral should get one. 

    The Organs

    Lastly, Nidaros Cathedral has two pipe organs. The oldest (in the north transept) was built by German organ builder Johann Joachim Wagner in 1738-1739. For the 900th anniversary of the Battle of Stiklestad in 1930, a new large organ was ordered from Steinmeyer. 

    Practical Information

    Hopefully by now I’ve convinced you that Nidaros Cathedral is worth visiting! Here’s all the practical information you need to know. 

    Local Name

    Nidarosdomen

    Admission & Prices

    Tickets into the cathedral cost 120 NOK, though they do offer discounts for students and senior citizens. It’s also possible to buy a combination ticket so you can also visit the Archbishops Residence.

    See up-to-date prices here: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/#ticket

    Opening Hours

    The cathedral is typically open from 9am until 2pm. Keep in mind church service and special events.

    I highly recommend looking at their website for the most up-to-date information: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/#ticket

    Facilities

    In the visitor centre you’ll find a cafe, gift shop and restrooms. The gift shop is excellent and has a wide selection of both cathedral-themed and Trondheim-themed souvenirs. 

    Guided Tours

    Public guided tours are available in the summer months, or you can book a private tour year-round.

    Learn more about guided tours here: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/en/omvisninger

    Church Events

    If you want to attend a concert or service, I recommend browsing their calendar. Unfortunately, the calendar only seems to be available in Norwegian. Still, it’s possible to make out what is happening: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/kalender?items=20

    Coastal Ferry

    I highly recommend booking the excursions on board the ferry that include a guided tour inside the cathedral. If you are coming independently, you need to be sure you can walk to the cathedral within 45 minutes in order to five yourself enough time to enter and look around. 

    Final Thoughts on Nidaros Cathedral

    Nidaros Cathedral is a must-see if you are in Trondheim, or even if you are visiting Norway in general. Despite a troubled history, there’s no doubt Nidaros Cathedral has survived as one of the most impressive buildings in Norway, and not something you expect to see this far north. I love the detailed history of the cathedral, the significance of each individual stone, and how the cathedral reflects Norway’s past.

    I hope you enjoyed this guide to Nidaros Cathedral!

    Be sure to check out my Trondheim travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the beautiful historic city. 

  • The History of Vadsø, the Kven Capital of Norway

    The History of Vadsø

    Located in the far north-east of Norway, Vadsø is a small town with a surprisingly complex and fascinating history. The town is located on the Varanger peninsula, close to the Russian border, and for hundreds of years has seen settlement from Sami, Kven and Norwegian populations due to the rich fishing and nearby trade.

    If you are road-tripping in Northern Norway, Vadsø is located along the Varanger Tourist Road, one of the most unique tourist roads in the country. Otherwise, you will likely visit Vadsø when sailing on the coastal ferry. In any case, I really love Vadsø and think it’s a highlight in Northern Norway. So, here’s my overview of the areas history to help you understand why it’s so unique. 

    The History of Vadsø

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vadsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Vadsø, including practical information and things to do. 

    Earliest Settlement

    People have lived in the area for thousands of years. Excavations have shown that there were settlements in the area as long as 9,000 years ago. It’s believed that the first people in the area were the Sami people. They were a semi-nomadic people, relying on fishing, reindeer herding, and hunting.

    Early Migration of Norwegian & Kven People

    Starting in the late medieval period, Norwegians and Finnish immigrants, later known as Kvens, began to settle in the area. Vadsø developed as a cultural meeting point for different groups. Most Norwegians came over in the 16th century. They settled on the island of Vadsøya thanks to the close proximity to the fisheries. Vadsøya is separated from the mainland by a 70 metre wide sound that could be walked across at low tide; this is still possible today. The village even had a church on the island.

    Vadsøya Cultural Heritage Trail

    On the island Vadsøya there is a 1.8km long cultural heritage trail, with interesting information on ancient sites from the Middle Ages in Vadsø, the cemetery, the airship masts, and other war memorials.

    Pomor Trade

    Vadsø benefited from trade with Russian merchants, known as Pomors. This trade flourished in the 17th and 18th centuries. The Russians brought goods like grain in exchange for fish and other local products.

    You can read my detailed overview of the Pomor Trade by clicking the link below. 

    Moving the Settlement

    Vadsø Church in the 1930s. Photo by Anders Beer Wilse. Source: Digitalt Museum

    As the settlement grew, it was decided to move Vadsø over onto the Varanger peninsula. In 1717, the church was moved over to the mainland. The current church is the fourth church to be in Vadsø. Vadsø continued to grow in the 19th century, and was officially designated as a municipality in 1839. Throughout the 19th century, fishing remained an important part of the local economy, complemented by trade and shipping. Svend Foyn’s first whale station was located on Vadsøya. In 1875, 62% of the population was Finnish speaking, and Vadsø was considered the capital Kven city in Norway. The Finnish language is still spoken by many, and Finnish traditions are still done alongside the Norwegian ones.

    Kven Immigration

    Kvenbyen (Kven City) in Vadsø. Photo by Sven Worm-Petersen. Taken 1890-1910. Source: Digitalt Museum

    The 19th century saw significant immigration from Finland due to famine and political unrest. This influx of Kvens significantly influenced the towns culture and demographics. The town has become known as the ‘Kven capital’.

    The Kven People

    “Kven” is the name given to people of Finnish descent in Northern Norway. The present-day Kven population descends from several waves of settlement and immigration that took place in the 18th and 19th centuries. The first wave was to Troms and West Finnmark, although the largest wave of immigration was to East Finnmark and Vadsø in particular. The Kven culture is stronger in West Finnmark, but there are several buildings and remains in the east too.

     

    Source: Nord Norge travel site linked below

    The Oldest Building

    The oldest building in Vadsø is Tuomainegården, a traditional Finnish house. The house is from 1851 and is an example of a ‘Varanger House’, which is a type of house with several variants developed in East Finnmark with the influence of neighbouring countries and the many ethnic groups residing here. The house and outhouse are joined by a corridor, so you could reach the outhouse without having to go out into bad weather. The Finns also brought the sauna with them when they came, and the sauna in this building has been preserved.

    Learn more about the house by clicking here. 

    Arctic Exploration

    Vadsø mast. Photo by Anders Beer Wilse. Taken in 1928. Source: Digitalt Museum.

    Near the Hurtigruten pier in Vadsø stands a 60-meter-tall mast built in 1926 by Italian aviation engineer Umberto Nobile. It served as a mooring mast for the airships Norge in 1926 and Italia in 1928. This structure symbolizes a significant chapter in Norwegian and European polar exploration. Both airships launched from Vadsø to Ny-Ålesund on Svalbard before embarking on their historic North Pole expeditions.

    Renowned Norwegian polar explorer Roald Amundsen (1872–1928), already celebrated for his Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, believed airships were ideal for exploring uncharted Arctic regions. His initial attempt in 1922, using two airships from Tromsø, ended in crashes, though the pilots were rescued.

    In 1926, Amundsen teamed up with American millionaire Lincoln Ellsworth for a new Arctic expedition aboard the airship Norge. Designed and piloted by Nobile, the airship departed from Rome and traveled via Oslo, Leningrad, and Vadsø, crossing the Barents Sea to Ny-Ålesund. On May 11, 1926, the expedition reached the North Pole and landed in Teller, Alaska, on May 14. The crew returned to Norway as celebrated heroes.

    World War II

    Vadsø after bombing in August 1944

    Vadsø, like much of Finnmark, was heavily affected by the German occupation during World War II. Vadsø was at times the headquarters for approximately 2,000 German troops. The centre of the town was badly damaged when the Allies bombed the town in 1944. Despite the bombings, 1/3 of the towns buildings were left standing. In Vadsø, there are more preserved pre-war buildings than anywhere else in Finnmark County.

    The town was bombed several times by Soviet forces due to its strategic location. At the end of the war, it was almost entirely destroyed by the German scorched-earth retreat in 1944.

    Vadsø was completely rebuilt after the war, with modern architecture replacing older wooden buildings.

    Modern Times

    While fishing remains important for the community, the economy has diversified to include public administration, trade, and tourism. The town is also known for promoting its diverse cultural heritage, particularly the contributions of the Sami and the Kvens.

    Also, Vadsø’s location near the Barents Sea places it within the broader context of Arctic geopolitics and environmental concerns.

    Vadsø’s history reflects resilience and adaptation in a challenging Arctic environment, with a rich blend of cultures and historic events shaping its identity today.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vadsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Uppsala, including practical information and things to do. 

  • Visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Viking Site of Birka

    Visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Birka in Sweden

    Birka, located on the island of Björkö on Lake Mälaren in Sweden, is considered to be one of the most significant Viking Age archaeological sites in Scandinavia. From the 8th to the 10th century, this was a thriving trade hub and one of the earliest urban centres in Sweden.

    Today Birka is on the UNESCO World Heritage List as the site provides an insight into the Viking Age’s social, economic and cultural dynamics. It’s also a popular place for visitors, so this guide is designed to give you practical information on how to reach Birka and what you can see there. It’s a perfect day trip from Stockholm, especially if you are interested in early Viking history.

    In this article...

    The History of Birka

    Founding as a Trade Centre

    Birka was founded around 750 AD as a trading port by a king or merchants trying to control trade. It is one of the earliest urban settlements in Scandinavia. Birka served as the Baltic link in the Dnieper Trade Route through Ladoga and Novgorod to the Byzantine Empire and the Abbasid Caliphate.

    Birka was also the site of the first known Christian congregation in Sweden, founded in 831 by Saint Ansgar.

    At its peak, it’s believed that around 1000 people lived here.

    As a trading centre, Birka likely exported furs, iron goods, and craft products. Furs were obtained from the Sami people, the Finns, and the people of Northwestern Russia, as well as local trappers. Furs included bear, fox, marten, otter, beaver, and other species. The trade of walrus tusks, amber, and honey is also documented. In return, it imported various materials from Europe and Western Asia. Foreign goods found in Birka include glass and metalware, pottery from Rhineland, clothing and textiles including Chinese silk, Byzantine embroidery, and plaited cords of high quality.

    Abandonment

    The settlement was abandoned in 975 AD, around the same time that Sigtuna was founded as a Christian town some 35km to the northeast. Based on the dating of coins found in the area, the city seems to have died out around 960. The reason for Birka’s decline are disputed. The Baltic island of Gotland is a better position for the Byzantine trade, and it was gaining eminence as a mercantile stronghold. It has also been speculated that Birka was the victim of an enemy assault.

    No texts survive from the area, though Adam of Bremen wrote about the missionary work of Ansgar in Birka as well as the Archbishop Unni, who died at Birka in 936. Saint Ansgar’s work was the first attempt to convert the people of Birka from the Old Norse religion to Christianity.

    Rediscovering Birka

    The exact location of Birka was lost over time, leading to speculation from Swedish historians. In search of Birka, National Antiquarian Johan Hardorph was the first to attempt excavations on the island in the late 17th century.

    In the late 19th century, Hjalmar Stolpe, an entomologist, arrived on the island to study fossilised insects found in amber on the island. He found very large amounts of amber, which is unusual as amber is not usually found in Lake Malaren. He speculated that the island must’ve been used for trade, and this began a series of archaeological excavations. These excavations indicated that a major settlement had been located on the island and a two decade excavation, led by Stolpe, took place.

    The archaeological remains are located in the northern part of the island and span an area of about 7 hectares (17 acres). The remains are both burial sites and buildings, and there is also a hill fort called “Borgen”. The construction technique of the buildlings is still unknown, but the main material was wood.

    On the 15th of June 2022, it was announced that archaeologists from Stockholm University’s Archaeological Research Laboratory had found a Viking Age shipyard in Lake Malaren.

    Why is Birka Significant?

    Birka is a significant site for a few reasons: 
    – Trading Centre: Birka was a bustling marketplace during the Viking period. Here, goods like furs, iron, amber and textiles were traded with regions as far as the Byzantine Empire, the Middle East, and Western Europe
    – Christianisation: Birka was one of the first places in Sweden to adopt Christianity. Therefore, Birka was an early focal point for Christian missionaries, such as Ansgar, who attempted to introduce Christianity to Sweden in the 9th century
    – Archaeological Finds: The site of Birka contains remains of Viking dwellings, graves, and artifacts such as jewellery, tools, and weapons.


    Birka isn’t the only Viking Age site in the area; there is also Hovgården on the neighbouring island of Adelsö. Together, they both make up an archaeological complex which illustrates the elaborate trading networks of Viking Scandinavia and their influence on the subsequent history of Europe. Birka and Hovgården have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993.

    What You Can See at Birka

    Most visitors come to Birka as part of a guided tour from Stockholm city centre. The full day-trip includes a guided walking tour of the site as well as a visit to the museum. Here are some highlights of the island. 

    Birka Museum

    The Birka Museum displays artifacts and reconstructions of Viking Age buildings. It’s important to keep in mind that you won’t see a real city in Birka. Rather, you see ruins and sites that have been excavated. Birka is interesting from an archaeological perspective. The museum doesn’t have the wide variety of objects like what you’d find in the Vikings section at the Swedish History Museum, but it’s still a nice place to visit. The museum provides insight into what the Viking settlement would have looked like in its heyday through various models and dioramas.

    Viking Village Reconstruction

    A recreation of a Viking settlement has been built across from the museum so you can get an idea into what Birka may have looked like from the 8th to the 10th centuries. The reconstruction has a nice, authentic vibe to it and is decorated in a way that they believe the Vikings would’ve decorated.

    There are over 3,000 graves, many still unexcavated, showing diverse burial practices and goods.

    Significant Items

    The Birka dragonhead is a 45mm long decorative object made from a tin alloy. The dragonhead was cast from a soapstone mould. Stylistically similar dragonheads have been discovered around the Baltic and they likely functioned as dress pins.

    10 small silver crosses were found in graves at Birka. It’s believed they were brought by missionaries. 27 graves contained small pendants of Thor’s hammer from around the 10th century.

    Dirham coins have been located all around Scandinavian countries and suggest strong trade relations existed between the medieval Middle East and Northern Europe. A dirham coin was found in the excavation of grave sites at Birka, with Arabic writing and an absence of imagery that would date the coin sometime after the 7th century.

    Fortress Ruins

    Danes attacked Birka, so it’s believed that a fortress was built to protect the settlement. An entry point in a Viking-era defensive wall still stands at Birka. At the top of the hillfort is the Ansar Monument, a cross erected in 1834 in honour of Saint Ansgar.

    Ting Assembly

    A ‘ting’ was a major assembly for chieftains in the region. Tings were huge open-air events, which required plenty of space.

    Religious Sites

    Ansgar’s Cross is a modern cross made to mark the missionary’s efforts to introduce Christianity to the region. It is also believed that one of the first churches to be built in Sweden was built here at Birka.

    It’s recommended to join a guided walking tour in Birka to get a full understanding of the archaeological site, its history, and its findings.

    Once you’re done with the history, you can enjoy one of the several hiking trails on the island.

    Burial Sites

    Over 3,000 grave sites are located on Birka, including both cremations and burials in coffins or chamber graves. Skeletal analysis and the presence of gender-specific jewellery and objects in graves has shown that the majority of the deceased are female. It’s theorised that this is because female grave goods are easy to identify, but male graves without objects are difficult to identify.

    Many graves contain objects such as coins, glass and textiles that came from foreign countries such as Middle East and Eastern Asia.

    Runic Inscriptions

    At the Birka Museum you can see Uppland Runic Inscription 6, which was discovered in several pieces on the island. The 10 pieces have bene placed together and are on display. These fragments were found over a period of 100 years.

    Items from Birka on Display at the Swedish History Museum

    The Swedish History Museum has one of the best exhibitions on the Viking Age in Scandinavia. The museum contains many items from Birka. For example, here you can see ice skates made of animal bone, silver pendants, a necklace, pearls, and glass beads. There is also the skeleton of a child known as the “Birka Girl”. This is a rare lavish burial of a six-year-old girl. Birka’s controversial ‘Allah Ring’ is also on display here.

    Practical Information

    Getting Here

    Getting to Birka is an adventure in itself.

    Boat: The most popular wat to visit Birka is by taking a boat tour from Stockholm. The company Stromma offers daily tours out to Birka and it’s highly recommended to book your ticket in advance. You can view the tour here: https://www.stromma.com/en-se/stockholm/excursions/day-trips/birka-the-viking-city/

    If you don’t want to go on a large public tour, you can take a local boat across run by Kalle Runristare: https://www.hovgarden.com/io4-guide.html#boat-to-birka. He can also be booked as a guide on the island and you can also include him as a guide for Hovgården.

    If you don’t want to take a guided tour, there are also local ferries operating to Birka. The official website for Birka has information on this in detail. 

    Car: You can drive to the mainland near the island and take a ferry or boat to the island.

    Overnighting in Birka

    It is possible to spend the night on Birka in one of their glamping tents. You can learn more here: https://www.stromma.com/en-se/stockholm/excursions/day-trips/glamping-at-birka/

    Best Time of the Year

    Birka is typically open to visitors from late spring to early autumn (May to September). In the summer months there are often Viking reenactments, guided tours, and educational workshops.

     

    Official Website

    I recommend browsing the official Birka website for the best practical information: https://www.birkavikingastaden.se/en/how-to-get-here/

    Final Thoughts on Visiting Birka

    Overall, Birka is the perfect place for fans of the Vikings or those with an interest in archaeology and early history. If you aren’t exactly a Viking person, this may not be the place for you. There aren’t many physical remains of Birka left, so you need to go in with the understanding that you aren’t visiting a Viking village, but rather the site of where one used to be. Still, I think it’s a fascinating place!

    Be sure to check out my Stockholm travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the beautiful Swedish capital. 

  • The Polar Museum in Tromsø

    The Polar Museum in Tromsø

    The Polar Museum in Tromsø is a renowned museum that offers an immersive experience into the rich history of Arctic exploration and the polar regions. The museum commemorates Tromsø’s important role as a gateway for Arctic expeditions and highlights the stories of explorers, hunters and scientists who ventured into the challenging Arctic region.

    I’ve been to the Polar Museum several times, and truly believe that it’s a must-see when visiting Norway. So, here’s my practical guide for visiting the Polar Museum in Tromsø. 

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    About the Museum

    The Polar Museum in Tromsø officially opened on the 18th of June 1978, the 50th anniversary of Roald Amundsens fateful flight aboard the “Latham”.

    With its location in the Arctic, Tromsø has served as the gateway to the Arctic for adventurers, hunters and researchers.

    The museum is located in the former customs house in Tromsø. The building dates back to 1830, and was used as a bonded warehouse to the customs authorities until the 1970s. The museum also owns the neighbouring building, which was built in 1840. It was also used as a customs house but is now the museum’s administration building.

    Inside the Museum

    As you can see, the museum is quite small and can get crowded – especially in the afternoons!

    Layout of the Museum

    The layout of the museum is as follows:

    Ground Floor:
    Room 1: Trapping in the Arctic
    Room 2: Svalbard in the 1600s and 1700s
    Room 3: Hunting Situation
    Room 4: Seal Hunting – Zoological Exhibition
    Room 5: Seal Hunting

    1st Floor:
    Room 6: Aircrafts & the Arctic
    Room 7: Henry Rudi & Wanny Woldstad
    Room 8: Walrus Hunting & Polar Bear Hunting
    Room 9: Roald Amundsen
    Room 10: Fridtjof Nansen

    Most text displays are in Norwegian, but there are printed documents with translations into English. You can’t take them with you, however. They are wonderfully detailed, so I actually took photos of all of them so I could read them later.

     

    What the information boards look like. It’s a little tricky to read as it’s quite far away (unless you have amazing eyesight!). 

    Hunting & Trapping

    The first exhibition is about Arctic hunting and trapping. It explores the traditions of Arctic hunters and trappers who braved extreme conditions for survival and trade. Here you can see tools, weapons and artifacts related to seal hunting, the trapping of polar bears and Arctic foxes, as well as the fur trade. The information goes into detail about how they survived, especially in the difficult winters.

    The exhibits are wonderfully built. I think this is why I love older museums; there was so much work put into creating displays. New museums (in my opinion) rely too much on tech. But here, at the Polar Museum, you can step into a trappers cabin and see exactly what it looked like. They also have all the tools and furs out on display.

    While some scenes may be shocking, it’s important to remember that the world was different 200 years ago, and for many this was their only way to make a living. And, this far north, this type of meat was much fresher than bringing something up from the south.

    On the walls you’ll find dozens of photos of actual trapping and hunting that took place. Some of them have captions in English, but not all of them. Some also include captions in German.

    These are the translated guides that you have to carry with you. But look below to see how detailed it is!

    Svalbard

    I love Svalbard (I have a whole section dedicated to Svalbard on the website! Click here to see it), and the Svalbard Museum provides an even better overview than what you get in the Polar Museum. Still, this exhibition provides an excellent overview of Svalbard and may even encourage you to book a trip there. The exhibition on Svalbard provides a historic overview of the region and how it came to be a hub for Arctic hunting and exploration.

    Seal Hunting

    There is a special section in the museum dedicated to seal hunting. Seal hunting is quite controversial in Norway today, but is a very small industry. The only place I’ve seen seal meat for sale was in Svalbard. Still, this exhibition provides context into why seal hunting was happening, how it worked, and what the seal was used for. There are displays showing all the different types of seal skins, the process of seal hunting, and then seal hunting in modern times and the controversies that come with it. I particularly like the displays showing all the different navigational tools that were used to get to Svalbard (it’s in the same area as the seal hunting).

    Polar Bears & Airships

    Upstairs you’ll see some models of the various airships that were used in the polar exploration missions. There are even photos on display, including one of the well-known airship Norge, which departed from Vadsø to fly over the North Pole. Most of the text on the wall here is only in Norwegian, making it challenging to follow in English.

    Next to it is an exhibition on polar bear hunting, another controversial topic that does not happen anymore. Still, seeing and learning about how these trappers caught polar bears is quite impressive!

    Arctic Explorers

    On the upper floor the main focus is the polar expeditions, which I find to be one of the highlights of the museum. Here you can learn about the Arctic explorers such as Fridtjof Nansen and Roald Amundsen. Their pioneering efforts in navigating uncharted territories and advancing polar science are celebrated with maps, photographs, and equipment. The museum especially focuses on Tromsø as a departure point for Arctic missions and its role in supporting the explorers.

    Here you’ll see items that belonged to these iconic explorers, as well as photographs of their missions and diaries they kept on their travels. The English booklets go onto wonderful detail about each polar explorer and break down all their missions. Again, it’s a perfect thing to take a photo of to read later!

    Tromsø Historic Photos

    As you leave the exhibition to make your way back to the lobby, you’ll find some excellent historic photos of Tromsø. It’s incredible to see how small the town was just 150 years ago.

    Practical Information

    Local name

    Polarmuseet

    Getting Here

    The Polar Museum is located approximately 15-20 minutes on foot from the Coastal Ferry Terminal. It’s approximately five minutes from the end of the main shopping street, Storgata. The museum is located by the fish market on the harbour. 

    Admission & Prices

    You can view up-to-date prices by visiting their website: https://en.uit.no/tmu/polarmuseet

    Opening Hours

    The museum is open daily, with the opening hours being 11am to 5pm in the winter. 

    I recommend checking their website for up-to-date opening hours: https://en.uit.no/tmu/polarmuseet/planlegg

    Facilities

    There is no cafe here, but there is a lovely gift shop. The gift shop is excellent and has a huge selection of books on the Arctic. You can also pick up beautiful locally made souvenirs. 

    Guided Tours

    During the summer (1 June to 15 August), there are guided tours of the museum at 1pm. I do recommend going; the guides help put everything in context.

    Accessibility

    Unfortunately, since this is an old building, the museum is only wheelchair accessible on the ground floor, as there’s a set of stairs to the second floor. Even so, the ground floor is very narrow and can be crowded, so it’s not easy to navigate through.

    Final Thoughts on the Polar Museum

    Overall, I believe the Polar Museum is an important institution educating visitors about the Arctic’s history, wildlife, and the human spirit of exploration. It also underscores Tromsø’s identity as the Arctic capital and provides a sobering reflection on humanity’s interactions with the polar environment. While you may not agree with all the practices that took place here, it’s important to understand why and how it happened.

    The museum is a must on any visit to Tromsø!

    Be sure to check out my Tromsø travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the beautiful Arctic capital. 

  • How to See the Northern Lights in Tromsø

    How to see the Northern Lights in Tromsø

    Tromsø is one of the best places in the world to witness the northern lights. But how do you see the northern lights in Tromsø?

    I’ve been working as a northern lights trip leader for four seasons now. I take groups on two week trips up to Northern Norway and Finland to see the northern lights. On top of that, I follow all the Facebook groups for Tromsø that debate how to see the northern lights. Often I see the same questions over and over again, as well as the same mistakes, so I thought I’d put it all together into a guide so you can make sure you’re making the most of your visit.

    Here’s my guide to how you can optimise your chances for a successful experience. 

    In this article...

    Choose the Right Time of Year & Day

    The best time to see the northern lights in Tromsø is from September through to early April. The best time for the lights in Tromsø is between 6pm and 2am, though they can be seen any time it is dark enough. The optimal time is due to the earths rotation, with the aurora belt being strongest on one side and weaker on one side.

    If you just want to see the lights and avoid cold weather and snow, then I recommend going in September. If you want to combine northern lights with all the wintery activities, I recommend going in February and March. October – January can have excellent northern lights, but it’s often stormy and rainy and the darkest time of year, meaning you never get to see how beautiful the area is.

    Give Yourself Enough Time

    You need to spend at least four nights above the arctic circle to give yourself the best chance of seeing the lights. It’s often cloudy in Tromsø, so many nights are not optimal. I actually recommend spending a week up there if you are very eager to see the lights.

    Check Weather & Solar Activity

    It’s important for the northern lights that you have clear skies and avoid cloudy conditions. Tromsø’s weather can be unpredictable, so keep an eye on forecasts. Even if the weather forecast is cloudy, still check outside. The forecasts can often be wrong!

    In Tromsø, the weather forecast is more important than the solar forecast. Tromsø is exposed to the sea and frequently gets bad weather and clouds, so it’s important to be aware of this before going.

    It’s also important to check solar activity. While Tromsø is so far north even weak and inactive northern lights can be visible, it’s best to keep an eye on the activity so you know when there’ll be strong nights or weak nights.

    It’s worth noting that the northern lights may suddenly appear as explosions in the sky, and then disappear quickly again. Or they may appear as a fog for hours before exploding in the sky. It’s important to be actively looking throughout the evening, and not give up too early.

    I took this photo approximately 20 minutes out of Tromsø and we were parked by the highway (was on a guided tour). 

    Go to a Dark Location

    While the northern lights can be seen from Tromsø city centre, they’ll never look as good as they can without light pollution. Therefore, you need to get out of the lights of the city.

    If in Tromsø centre, the best places to go are:
    Fjellheisen cable car
    Prestvannet Lake is a nature reserve with no artifical illumination.
    Kongsbakken park has no streetlights.
    Telegrafbukta is a popular beach on the southern tip of the island and is a top choice for spotting the northern lights.

    Alternatively, you can book accommodation out of the city centre so you’ll be guaranteed dark nights. On this occasion, you may want to hire a car to take yourself into the city every day.

    I’m not going to recommend places out of the city centre as I do not encourage you renting a car and driving around.

    Go on a Guided Tour

    My best advice is to go on an organised tour with a local guide who is able to share their knowledge and offer some advice. The guides monitor the weather, cloud cover and northern lights activity carefully.

    There are two different times of northern lights tours:

    A northern lights hunt involves going by car, minibus, or full-size bus and the focus of this activity is seeing the northern lights.

    A northern lights experiences combines hunting for the northern lights with an activity, such as dog sledding, snowmobiling, or a reindeer safari. In this case, the focus of the activity is the experience, and the northern lights is the bonus.

    Which one is better? This is completely up to you! Some prefer the idea of doing an experience so the entire night isn’t a waste in case you don’t see the lights, but experiences make it harder to photograph the northern lights.

    Northern lights may only appear for a minute, so it’s important to have someone constantly watching the sky.

    I recommend browsing the VisitTromsø website for ideas on what kind of tours you can do: https://www.visittromso.no/northern-lights

    Go on a Cruise

    Northern lights cruises are another good way to see the lights. These cruises take you far out of the city lights and will provide stunning backdrops with mountains and fjords as you take photographs of northern lights.

    My photo above was taken from Hurtigruten near the port of Skjervøy. Being on a ship can give a more dynamic photo, but you have to adjust to the fact that the ship is moving. 

    Book Everything in Advance

    It’s important to keep in mind that Tromsø is extremely popular for northern lights tourism, and everything books out months in advance. This includes the good hotels and northern lights guides. So be organised and have everything ready well before you come to Tromsø.

    Go Somewhere Else in Norway

    Tromsø is not the only city in Norway that gets northern lights. If you want to avoid overly crowded areas and mass tourism, here are some other places that offer northern lights experiences and tours and won’t be as busy:
    – Alta
    – Kirkenes
    – Narvik
    – Svolvær
    – Kautokeino

    Do not Hire a Car!

    I know it can be tempting to hire a car to go out northern lights searching yourself, but I do not recommend it. The roads can be icy and dark, and if you aren’t used to driving on ice in the dark, you risk crashing and injuring yourself of others. Many may also not focus clearly on the road if they are eager to get to a northern lights spot. Please book a tour – it’s for the safety of yourself and the locals.

    Emma's Northern Lights Diary

    You can see all my northern lights sightings using the link below. 

    How to Observe the Northern Lights

    Here’s my general guide to observing the northern lights. 

  • Where to Stay in Geiranger, from a Tour Leader’s Perspective

    Where to Stay in Geiranger from a Tour Leader's Perspective

    Gerianger is one of the most popular places to stay when it comes to the Western Fjords, and I can completely understand why! This charming fjord village provides spectacular views, unique activities, and is within walking distance to some of Norway’s best hikes.

    However, Geiranger is also a huge tourist town, with hotels selling out months in advance. During the day, the town can feel overcrowded – especially when the cruise ships are in. However, Geiranger in the evenings and early mornings is wonderful, and as long as you don’t mind the crowds, you’ll love it here!

    There are so many hotels in Geiranger, with more popping up all the time. But where is the best place to stay? Well, I’ve stayed in Geiranger several times at various different hotels, so I’ve put together this handy guide to help you choose the right spot in Geiranger.

    Tip:When I was researching this guide, I put in a one-night stay in June (6 months away) and many accommodation options only had one room left, especially the good value ones. Some were even sold out.

    Affiliate links: None of the hotels recommended here are paid placements or have sponsored this article in any way. This guide comes from my years of experience travelling to Geiranger for work and holiday, and I’m simply choosing the hotels I believe to be the best choice. That said, if you book through the link provided here, I get a small commission at no extra cost to you, and that money contributes to this website. I appreciate any support I can get 🙂

    Price Range:

    Budget: Less than 1500 NOK a night
    Mid-range: 1500 – 2600 NOK a night
    High end: 2600 NOK a night

    I looked at one night in June in the following year from when I wrote this article to get my price list.

    In this article...

    Map of Geiranger

    High Up

    Why Stay Here?

    If it’s views you’re after, then I’d recommend choosing a hotel high up on the mountains. The advantages are that you get spectacular views, are close to the hikes, the museum, and driving in/out of Geiranger, but the disadvantage is that anytime you want to go into the village, there’s a bit of a hike waiting for you.

    Photo of Geiranger from the Flydalsjuvet photo spot. You can see Hotel Union in the bottom centre. The view in the photo is similar to what you’d get at Hotel Utsikten.

    High End

    Hotel Union

    If you want to stay in Geiranger, I’d say that Hotel Union is one of the best hotels here. This historic hotel began over one hundred years ago when tourism began coming to Geiranger, and the same family has owned it ever since. In the basement they have some of the most beautiful vintage cars that I’ve ever seen (and that comes from someone who doesn’t care for cars!) as the same family also brought taxis to Geiranger. The rooms are spacious, the hotel restaurant is excellent, and there’s even a spar with indoor and outdoor pools. You pay a premium for a room with a view out to the fjord, but I must say it’s worth it.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Hotel Utsikten

    Hotel Utsikten is the main competitor to Hotel Union, and is located very close by. “Utsikten” means “The View” and here you will get spectacular views out to the Geirangerfjord. Prices are very similar to Hotel Union, and here you’ll also pay a premium for a fjord view. Hotel Union is better as an overall package, but Hotel Utsikten has a much better view.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Dalen Hytte

    Dalen is a little ways out of Geiranger, but it’s worth it for the price and views. A cabin with one bedroom and a private bathroom is 1300 NOK in the high season, which is crazy low for Geiranger. Don’t expect high end luxury, but for that low price you can park right next to your cabin and sit on your front porch enjoying views of the mountains. The accommodation offers even cheaper cabins with shared bathrooms, or you can opt for some glamping. While I’ve put this under the “mid range” category, this is definitely one of the best-value stays in Geiranger.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Fossen Camping

    Fossen is where I stayed in 2020 and I was impressed by the incredible views you get for the price. When researching this article, most of the cabins in summer were sold out so it was hard to get a price list. The cabins come with balconies overlooking the fjords and are relatively modern inside, though still with some rustic cabin charm. They have TVs inside as well as a kitchenette. You can park right by your cabin. 

    Click here to view rates & book

    By the Fjord

    Why Stay Here?

    If you want to be within minutes walk of Geiranger’s attractions, experiences and shops, this is a good place to stay. However, keep in mind that it’ll be very crowded during the daytime. The views aren’t as spectacular as they are from higher up, but you’re choosing convenience by staying by the fjord. 

    High End

    Grande Fjord Hotel

    This hotel is located right by the fjord at the bottom of the Ørnesvingen switchback road. The views from the hotel are excellent and there is a highly recommended breakfast here. All rooms (except for the “Basic” category) offer views out to the fjords, and the room size is generous with coffee machines in all the rooms. Some rooms come with patios out to the fjord as well. The only downside is that it is about a 20 minute walk into Geiranger, but if you’re here in the high season this will be a nice escape from the massive crowds during the day. The hotel even has its own distillery – Geiranger Brenneri – and you can take a tour or try some gin and aquavit.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Havila Hotel

    If you want to stay in the centre of Geiranger close to all the shops and restaurants, this is your pick. The rooms are well-designed but on the small side. The cheapest rooms are about 2,500 NOK a night, but I put this in mid-range as it’s the best option you’ll get if you want to stay in the heart of Geiranger.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Solhaug Fjordcamping

    This one is at the top of my list for where to stay next time I visit Geiranger. These modern cabins come with kitchenettes, TVs, a coffeemaker, and porches with views out to the fjord. Larger cabins have separate bedrooms, while smaller ones have bunkbeds. The cheaper cabins have shared bathrooms, while the more high-end ones (which are 2,400 NOK a night) have private bathrooms). The walk into Geiranger is around 10-15 minutes.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Solhaug Fjordcamping

    Geiranger Camping is more of an RV-park than a cabin rental place. Located right by the waterfront and only a minutes walk from the ‘main street’, the prices are very low – just 290 NOK a night for an RV – and the views are excellent.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Neighbouring Villages

    Why Stay Here?

    If you have a car, I recommend staying out of Geiranger. By staying twenty minutes out of town, you save a ton of money on accommodation and will also have a more peaceful, authentic fjord experiences. There are some lovely places to stay in the surrounding areas, and the commute into Geiranger is beautiful. 

    High End

    Valldal Fjordhotell

    Located approximately 30 minutes and one ferry ride from Geiranger, Valldal Fjordhotel is a highly rated hotel with good-size rooms, amazing views, and excellent food. The hotel is approximately mid-way between Trollstigen and Geiranger, so if you’re visiting more to explore the nature, this could be a good pick. Valldal is also not touristy, so you’ll get a more authentic fjord experience.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Hjelle Hotel

    Hjelle Hotel is a charming historic hotel in a tiny village called Hjelle. If you want to avoid tourists, this is the spot for you. The hotel was established in 1896 by Thor Hjelle, who was only 20 years old at the time. The hotel is still run by the family who has been living there since the 1900s, and there’s a white sandy beach close by with some incredible hikes. All the rooms have a lovely historic charm and some come with balconies out to the fjords.

    It’s about a one hour drive into Geiranger from Hjelle.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Hesthaug Gård

    Located in Eidsdal, around 20 minutes by car from Geiranger, these charming little cabins are perfect if you want to stay in nature. The cabins also come with kitchens so you can cook for yourself. Don’t expect luxury inside the cabins, they are very typical of how Norwegians stay when they are out in nature.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Petrine’s Gjestgiveri

    ‘Gjestgiveri’ is a word for an inn or bed and breakfast, and this one is absolutely charming. Located about 40 minutes from Geiranger by car, Petrine’s Gjestgiveri is in a quiet fjord village. There are 10 rooms here with good views in all directions, and there’s even a restaurant in the hotel. Highly recommended if you want a quiet, relaxing stay.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Eidsdal Camping & Feriehus

    These cabins are located in Eidsdal, which is about a twenty minute drive from Geiranger. If you are a few friends or a family travelling together, these cabins are amazing value. The cabins are basic, but they have a cosy feel.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Nygård Camping

    Located on the Strynfjellsvegen scenic road, Nygård Camping is an excellent-value cabin stay. A one-bedroom cottage is only 1200 NOK (compared to 3000 NOK+ you pay for hotels in Geiranger) and the location is stunning. It does take about 45 minutes to drive to Geiranger, but there’s still a lot to do in the area.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Are there Airbnbs?

    There are Airbnbs, but please don’t consider booking one. If you want an apartment, consider one of the cabins mentioned in this guide. You can get much nicer quality hotels and apartments and don’t need to stay at an Airbnb. 

    Final Thoughts on Where to Stay in Geiranger

    I think my best tip for booking in Geiranger is to consider what’s more important – proximity to activities or serenity in nature. From there, you can narrow down your search. Personally, I prefer staying out of Geiranger in a cabin in the mountains. But if I was to stay in Geiranger, I’d choose Hotel Union for sure. 

    Be sure to check out my Geiranger travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the beautiful fjord region. 

  • Famous Films & Series Shot in Norway

    Famous Films & Series Shot in Norway

    I love watching movies, and I especially love when I’m watching a movie and come across a shot where I stop and go – hey, that’s Norway! It’s always so exciting to see places I’ve been up on the big screen. I’ve put together a list of some of the biggest movies and television series that have been partially filmed in Norway. I hope you enjoy this list, and if I’m missing anything be sure to let me know!

    Films & Series Shot in Norway

    The Snowman (2017)

    Okay, the Snowman is included in this list despite being based off a Norwegian novel because the movie used foreign actors and was filmed in English. This thriller follows a detective in Oslo investigating a string of mysterious murders. They filmed in Oslo, Bergen, and the mountains around Rjukan.

    In the trailer you’ll recognise the Atlantic Road as well as various mountain shots.  

    For me, the most exciting part was when they filmed an aerial shot of Bergen, and I could see my apartment!

    Ex Machina (2014)

    This is probably the first movie I remember hearing about being filmed in Norway. Ex Machina is a sci-fi movie that explores artificial intelligence as a young programmer visits a reclusive genius’s remote mountain estate for a Turing test experiment. This movie was filmed at the gorgeous Juvet Landscape Hotel in Valldal, close to Trollstigen. The hotel was designed by Norwegian architects Jensen & Skodvin, who also designed the hotel’s spa area, where most of the scenes were shot. 

    You can actually stay at the hotel! Click here to visit their website. 

    Mission Impossible: Fallout (2018)

    Tom Cruise loves Norway and has filmed multiple Mission Impossible movies here – he recently filmed up in Svalbard. In Mission Impossible: Fallout, Tom Cruise’s character, Ethan Hunt, finds himself in a helicopter chase that takes place in Norway’s fjords. They filmed at Pulpit Rock (Preikestolen) as well as Lysefjord.

    Correct me if I’m wrong, but I’m sure when he’s on Pulpit Rock in the movie they are claiming he is in India – right?

    Dune: Part One (2021)

    Dune is a hugely successful movie that I honestly didn’t know was partly filmed in Norway! While the movie is set on desert plants, they used some shots of the dark, mountainous landscape of Norway, in particular the region around Stadlandet. In one of the first photos published of the film, you see Timothee Chalamet as protagonist Paul Atreides walking on a beach on his home planet of Caladan before embarking for Arrakis – that beach is at Stadlandet.

    If you watch the YouTube video above, you’ll see bits of Stadlandet at the beginning. 

    Kingsman: The Golden Circle (2017)

    Some scenes of this popular spy-action film were shot in Norway, including at the Trollstigen Tourist Road.

    The Empire Strikes Back (1980)

    This classic Star Wars movie used Norway’s Hardangerjøkulen glacier to represent the snowy planet of Hoth. You can see this glacier when taking the train between Bergen and Oslo – it’s located at the stop Finse.

    You can see the landscape in the YouTube video above. 

    No Time to Die (2021)

    Spy-action movies sure love Norway! In No Time to Die, there are several scenes set against Norway’s beautiful nature, especially car chases. A car chase scene takes place along the Atlantic Road (see the YouTube video above). You also see a girl fleeing from a masked man on a frozen lake. This quiet lake is called Langvann and is located near Hakadal, a village north of Oslo.

    The Golden Compass (2007)

    This adaptation of Phillip Pullman’s novel captures the icy, northern aesthetic of Norway as part of a fantasy Arctic setting. Svalbard was used for the shots of frozen landscapes.

    Black Widow (2021)

    Some scenes of this Marvel film are set in Norway, where the protagonist hides out early in the movie. Black Widow was filmed around Sæbø in Western Norway, a picturesque village surrounded by fjords and mountains.

    Here’s a detailed overview of where the film was shot (click here). 

    You can even book a tour to see all the filming locations (click here). 

    Tenet (2020)

    This mind-bending thriller by Christopher Nolan features sequences filmed in Norway’s dramatic settings, including a spectacular boat scene. They filmed around Oslo’s Opera House as well as the Romsdalsfjord and the town of Åndalsnes.

    Thor: The Dark World (2013)

    It makes sense that they filmed a Thor movie in Norway! This Marvel movie uses the natural landscapes of Norway to enhance Asgardian and otherworldly scenes.

    Harry Potter & the Half Blood Prince (2009)

    Though set in the UK, some sweeping aerial shots in the film were filmed in Norway. They used the mountains and fjords around Trolltunga. The Rauma Railway near the village of Bjorli was used as a backdrop for the train ride on board the Hogwarts Express. The scene where Harry and Ron are talking about the unbreakable curse of Snape was shot inside a museum train owned by the Norwegian Railway Club.

    You can see pictures by clicking here. 

    My Norwegian Holiday (2023)

    This Netflix Christmas movie was filmed in Bergen. I remember the week they filmed was torrential rain, but you don’t see any of that in the final movie!

    Downsizing (2017)

    The Matt Damon movie Downsizing was filmed in Norway, mostly around the Lofoten Islands. You can see bits of this at the end of the trailer shown above. 

    Succession TV Series

    Succession is one of my favourite television series, and I love that they used Norway as a location for the last season. They filmed around Åndalsnes and include the Romsdal Gondola, the Juvet Landscape Hotel (also seen in Ex Machina) and the Atlantic Road

     

    The Witches

    This classic film based on the book by Roald Dahl has its opening shots in Bryggen and Gamle Bergen.

    Further Reading

    Below are some links to websites with more detailed information about movie locations:

    https://upnorway.com/norway-on-the-big-screen

    https://www.norwegianfilm.com/filmography