valdresflye

  • Fagernes, Gudbrandsdalen, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Valdres

    Drive it Yourself: The Valdresflye National Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: The Valdresflye National Tourist Road

    If you are looking for a great scenic road near the mountains, I do recommend Valdresflye. Everyone has heard of the Jotunheimen National Park, but you can’t exactly drive through the middle of it. The best way to see the park is to get out of your car and go for a hike. However, if you take the Valdresflye Scenic Road, you do get a glimpse at Jotunheimen’s beauty.

    Valdresflye is a mountain plateau in the easternmost part of Jotunheimen National Park. Reaching a height of 1,389m (4,557ft), it’s the second-highest mountain pass after Sognefjellet, a road famous for its bad weather. Valdresflye is a lot safer than Sognefjellet, and it is open longer than Sognefjellet.

    Valdresflye Scenic Road is not a long road (49km/30 mi), so you can take the time to park and go for many of the marked hikes. 

    If you are interested in historical sites, along the road you pass many ancient summer farms and mountain pastures.

    I got to do the Valdresflye National Scenic Road in September 2020, when I was travelling from Fagernes to the Gudbrandsdalen Valley. Below you’ll find all the info you need to do the drive yourself!

    In this article...

    View Our 'Ultimate Norway' Road-trip

    Download this Guide

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    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

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    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

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    The drive: Valdresflye Tourist Road

    Fagernes

    I recommend that you begin this drive in Fagernes. 

    Fagernes Travel Guide

    Hegge Stave Church

    Stave Church

    Hegge Stave Church is a 13th century stave church located on the hillside near Heggenes village. It has undergone many repairs over the years, altering its appearance dramatically. The staves inside are still original, though. 

    Hegge Stave Church

    Beitostølen

    Ski Resort/Town

    Beitostølen is a small town located 900m (3000ft) above sea level. As of January 2020, the population was 360. It is largely a tourist area, with several large hotels, cabins, shops and restaurants.

    Due to the proximity to Jotunheimen, as well as its height, Beitostølen is among the most snow-sure winter sports resorts in Europe, and ski season usually lasts from November to April.

    There are alpine slopes and cross-country trails totalling 320km. In summer, Beitostølen is very popular with hikers.

    The village has hosted the FIS Cross-Country World Cup and the Biathlon World Cup competitions.

    There is the Beitøstolen Health Sports Centre, a rehabilitation for the disabled. Ridderrennet, an international ski race for the disabled, is held at Beitostølen every year.

    Today Beitostølen is the second largest tourist destination in Innlandet County after Lillehammer.

    Bitihorn

    Mountain

    The most prominent peak you’ll see after starting the scenic road is Bitihorn, which is 1607m high. It’s a popular hike, and there’s a parking lot on the left where you can park. It’s near a Sami camp.

    Here is some info about hikes in the area.

    Bygdin Mountain Hotel

    Historic Hotel

    The history of the hotel goes back to 1867, when two brothers had an idea to build a hotel here and generate tourism. Originally their hotel was in a different location; when the road was finished and it didn’t go past their hotel, they moved it to the current location. The building was completed in 1897 and is now the oldest pat of the present-day hotel.

    Bygdin Hotel quickly became popular thanks to its good standard and location on the mountain pass. In winter, planes would land on the frozen lake with tourists.

    The first major renovation of the hotel was in 1910-1912, and you can still see this renovation in some of the historic rooms, the salon, and the entrance.

    During World War II, the hotel was used as an officer’s quarters. German and Austrian troops came here to practice warfare in the mountains. Up to 20,000 men and 600 horses passed through the area. At the hotel, a lot of furniture, paintings and valuables were confiscated. The piano was recovered after the war; it was found all the way in Trondheim. The piano is in the ladies’ lounge today.

    In 1964 a new brick building was added to the property. New owners took over in 2017, after stopping at the hotel to buy a waffle and deciding to buy it! The new owners are making efforts to preserve its historic character.

    You can stop here for a bite to eat and to admire the hotel.

    Historical info taken from the hotel’s website. 

    Flye1389

    Scenic viewpoint

    This is the highest point on the road, at 1389m above sea level (4557 ft). The cafe inside has food from Valdres and Gudbrandsdalen, plus incredible views over the mountain peaks. You can rent hiking equipment here. 

    Steinplassen

    Monument

    At the same photostop where I took the above photos you’ll see Steinplassen, a monument to all the cairns found on mountains. The mountain range here is the Jotunheimen mountains. 

    Bessheim Fjellstue & Hytter

    Historic Hotel

    Bessheim is a historic lodgings.

    The site was a sæter, which is a kind of old building and base that had everything anyone would need when in the mountains. It was important to those coming to their summer farms, but also for fishers and hunters. They would find equipment here, plus shelter if there was a storm. 

    As the area became more popular for hikers in the second half of the 19th century, the sæter became a good place for those seeking shelter. Eventually the sæter’s (there were three here) grew into lodges. The first building built for tourism was in 1890. The lodge ceased being used for cows and goats in the 1960s – yes, historically these lodges were also for animals! 

    There is one sæter still on the property, Sandnesstuggu, which you can rent for the night.  The hotel has remained in the family since 1890, with the current owner being the great-great granddaughter of the woman who built the lodge in 1890.

    Historic info taken from the hotel’s website (click here). 

    Hindsæter Hotel

    Historic Hotel

    Hindsæter Hotel is a small, historic timber hotel from 1898. Much like Bessheim, the hotel was originally a sæter; a farm that welcomed guests. As more people began to come here in the late 19th century, the farmer owner built a hotel. The landscape is historic, with old timber houses, stone fences, ski guards and grazing animals. The hotel even has its own hydropower plant.

    History taken from the hotels website (click here). 

    Ridderspranget Ravine

    Natural Attraction

    Ridderspranget, or ‘The Knight’s Leap’ in English, is a ravine formed by a river that has gnawed deep into the bedrock, so erosion has only taken place in the riverbed. The name comes from a legend about Sigvat Leirholar, one of the king’s advisers, who received a letter that a beautiful girl was to marry a knight. The girl did not want to marry the knight, so Sigvat decided to set her free! He picked her up and fled with her – the knight cased them but Sigvat jumped after Ridderspranget with the girl in his arms and they were free.

    It is a short and relatively easy walk to get to Ridderspranget. 

    Vågå Municipality

    Randsverk

    Settlement

    Randsverk is a small settlement with mostly cabins and campgrounds. There is a supermarket here, too!

    They have a lovely website, which you can view here. 

    In Randsverk you’ll find signs pointing to Jotunheimen National Park, but keep in mind that the road is gravel. You can also find the road down to Gudbrandsdalen. 

    Vågåmo

    Our final stop is Vågåmo, a picturesque small town located just off the Rv15. Information on Vågåmo can be found via the link below. 

    Edvard Munch & Vågå

    Continue the drive

    Telemark

    Take the scenic drive through Telemark from Dalen to Kongsberg.

    Telemark Scenic Drive

    Previous Drive

    Numedal Valley

    Numedal is home to a large number of medieval buildings, including four stave churches. 

    Numedal Valley

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “Ultimate Norway”. You can read about the whole drive below. 

    View Our 'Ultimate Norway' Road-trip

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Fagernes, Stave Churches, Valdres

    Hegge Stave Church

    Hegge Stave Church

    If you are planning to do the Valdresflye National Scenic Road, I recommend taking a detour to Hegge Stave Church. Located south of Beitostølen, Hegge Stave Church is a grand wooden church that has more or less been here since the 13th century. Like every one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway, Hegge Stave Church has a fascinating history. So, let’s get into it!

    In this article...

    Fagernes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The Early Years

    Hegge Stave Church is first mentioned in history in 1327, yet some of the logs date to the early 13th century. Hegge Stave Church is a mix of two previous stave churches. The church got this location in the 17th century.

    Buried Beneath the Surface

    Inside the church, you’ll be able to see the eight free-standing staves that are original from the Middle Ages. At the top of the staves are different facemasks, which we see in several stave churches including Borgund. Also, like Borgund, St. Andrews crosses link the staves together. On one of the staves is the rune inscription “Erling Arnson wrote these runes”. It may be the same Erling whose name we find on a rune inscription in Høre Stave Church nearby.

    There used to be a covered gallery all around the outside of the church. Legend says this is where the Vikings would leave their weapons so they wouldn’t get wet. I don’t know how accurate this is, but it’s an interesting image nonetheless! You’ll see the covered gallery in some stave churches today, like Fantoft and Borgund.

    The staves rise above the ceiling; the flat ceiling is fairly new.

    Today the building is in the basilica style.

    Oh Stave Church, Where Art Thou?

     

    Hegge Stave Church has had many major renovations. Looking at pictures today, you can tell it doesn’t look like a stave church. Sadly, this is common of many stave churches in Norway. At the same time, this restoration work guaranteed their protection from being torn down to make way for new churches.

    As mentioned above, the church was moved to its present location with parts from two previous churches. These parts may have come from two disused churches in Valdres, explaining the different dating’s on the church.

    Restoration efforts took place in 1694, 1706 and 1712, for starters.

    Extensions to the west happened in 1842. In 1844, the church was enlarged so the choir was as wide as the nave. Moreover, in 1864, the sacristy was added, and a flat ceiling covered over the old one, which would’ve looked like an overturned fishing boat. Other stave churches, like Borgund, still have this design. The church was painted white in 1872; the red paint was added later. This means that, unlike most other stave churches, this one is not tarred. I don’t know. I like my stave churches tarred.

    The last major renovation was between 1923 and 1924. Stone foundations placed under the church provide it with more stability. Additionally, the gallery and tower got new stairs.

    Judging from all these renovations, it seems that all that remains of the stave church is its staves.

    Odin, is that you? (Source)

    Interior Decoration

    Inside the church, you’ll find some incredible carvings from the 13th century. They are at the top of the staves and seem to represent kings. There’s a theory that one of them represents Odin, from Norse mythology, but that is not confirmed. The only other original piece inside the church is the baptismal font, made of soapstone from the 1100s. It has lovely decorations around it including trees, human figures and stars.

    There is a vestment from 1686 and a painting of Isaac’s Sacrifice from 1643 that are from the post-Reformation times.

    The altarpiece is famous for its folkloric tale. Four men from the parish went to Gudbrandsdal, the neighbouring valley, to buy or sell some cattle. They got caught in a major storm on the way back. They promised God that if they survived they would each give the value of a cow to Hegge Stave Church. The men survived and paid for the altarpiece. They pulled it to the church the following year on a sleigh. The altarpiece is from 1782 and has two pairs of candlesticks from around 1600 plus three ancient bibles from 1699, 1738 and 1764.

    You can find heaps of photos here.

    Around the Church

    The church has a carved gate from the Middle Ages, but the cemetery around the church is not that old. Hegge Stave Church is located some ways up the hill and stands by the farm Presthegge. You’ll see cows and tractors across the street!

    Hegge Stave Church Today

    The church is still the parish church in the local community. It’s possible to visit the church throughout the year for free, just check the website for the current opening hours.

    There is a large parking lot outside the church, and by the fence are some information boards in English and Norwegian.

    Hegge Stave Church is located just off the Fv51, a little north of the town Heggenes and 15 minutes south of Beitostølen, a winter sports resort and endpoint of the Valdresflye Scenic Road. Close by is the E16 between Bergen and Oslo. If you’re on the E16, you’ll see signs to Beitostølen from Ryfoss. Just follow those until the Fv51, and then turn right towards Heggenes instead of left to Beitostølen.

    Fagernes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide