Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Bergen

    Which Fjord Cruise Should You Book From Bergen?

    Which Fjord Cruise Should You Take from Bergen?

    One of the big reasons people come to Bergen is to see the fjords. After all, Bergen is nicknamed the ‘Gateway to the Fjords’ because of the city’s close proximity to the most spectacular fjords in the country. Naturally, there are many different fjord cruises available. It can be tricky figuring out which one is the best one, so I’ve written a fjord cruise guide for Bergen!

    When I was looking at the list, I was comparing a few different things. First, it’s important to understand that not all fjords are the same. Just because a cruise lists all the fjords they go down, doesn’t mean these are interesting fjords! For the dramatic scenery, you need to travel deep into the country. This means that you’ll be picking a full-day trip out of Bergen. 

    Another thing many overlook is how boring it can be travelling on the fjords. Yes, the fjords and beautiful and why many come to Norway, but honestly if you’re doing a three or four hour cruise on the one fjord, you aren’t getting a lot of variety.

    Lastly, and most importantly, do not book through third-party tour companies. If you see companies offering these cruises as a package, they are just buying public transport tickets and selling them to you at a huge fee. Always book directly through the cruise company (I’ve linked them below). Even though I use affiliate links to websites like GetYourGuide, on this page I’m specifically avoiding it as I don’t want you to be ripped off booking third party. 

    So, based on that, here’s my guide to the fjord cruises with links to learn about the cruise directly on their website.

    Fjord Cruise Bergen Guide

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    You can learn more about Bergen on my dedicated travel guide page. 

    Short Cruises (2 hours)

    Any cruise two hours or less won’t get you out to the best fjords, but it is a chance to get out on the water and see Bergen from a different perspective. 

    Viking Ship Cruise

    Length: 90 minutes

    This short trip will take you around Bergen and the Byfjord (the fjord running along the city of Bergen), and while it won’t get you to the dramatic or impressive fjords, it does put you on a replica of a Viking ship! The ship is beautiful and the crew explains how the ship works while you cruise around Bergen.

    I highly recommend this experience!

    Learn more here: https://vikingvoyages.no/

    Bergen Yacht Tour

    Length: 2 hours

    This two hour guided sightseeing tour takes you a chance to see the city of Bergen from the sea. The yacht stays close to Bergen city centre, but you get a unique view of Nordnes, the fortress, Bryggen, and the surrounding neighbourhoods. You won’t see any fjords or steep mountains on this tour, but it’s a unique way to view Bergen.

    You can learn more on their website: https://firstplayer.no/ 

    Bergen Private Yacht Tour

    If you’ve got some cash to spend, consider booking a private yacht tour of Bergen. The cruise takes you around the city, very similar to the tour above, but you get the whole boat to yourself. The trip includes a visit to Alvøen, a neighbourhood in Bergen (not exactly a village like the website says!).

    Learn more here: https://firstplayer.no/exclusive-private-cruise/

     

    Half-day Cruises

    Alverstraumen Fjord Cruise (3.5 hours)

    The Alverstraumen Fjord Cruise is a shorter version of the Mostraumen Fjord Cruise and takes you on the Salhusfjord and the Kvernafjord towards Alverstraumen. The strait is between 100 metres and 200 metres wide and one kilometre long and is characterised by strong tidal currents. Just note that in some ways the area you’re going to is just an outer suburb of Bergen, and the fjords you see here are not dramatic. Still, the scenery is beautiful.

    Learn more here: https://www.bergencruise.no/

    Mostraumen Fjord Cruise (4 hours)

    This cruise is arguably the most famous of all the cruises you can take out of Bergen. The cruise goes out onto the Osterfjord, which is located just north of Bergen city centre, and then down the Mostraumen channel.

    The cruise is beautiful. You do see waterfalls and picturesque small villages. However, if you are seeing any other fjords on your trip (such as the Nærøyfjord or the Geirangerfjord), the fjords you see on this cruise pale in comparison. This cruise is perfect for those who are in Western Norway for a short period of time and won’t see much of the surrounding nature.

    Book directly here: https://rodne.no/en/fjord-experiences/bergen/fjordcruise-mostraumen/

    Bergen Heritage Tour (5.5 hours)

    This trip combines a ride on a historic steamship, historic bus, and historic train. The cruise takes you out to the Osterfjord, where you disembark the ferry to take a bus to the train station. The trip is perfect for those who are interested in history and tradition. 

    The tour is only offered on Sunday’s in summer, and you can book tickets here: https://stord1.ticketco.events/no/en/e/soendag_30_juni_2024_som_aa_reise_i_gamle_dager__bergen_heritage_tour_rundtur_start_i_soergaaende_retning_med_veteraanbuss

    Full Day Trips

    Norway in a Nutshell (10 hours)

    Norway in a Nutshell is the most famous day-trip from Bergen and combines train, bus and boat travel. I have a whole other guide to Norway in a Nutshell. The trip includes a cruise on the scenic Nærøyfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage fjord known for being very narrow with steep mountains. The cruise is one of the highlights of the whole day trip. 

    Norway in a Nutshell

    You can find my separate guide for Norway in a Nutshell via the link below. 

    Norway in a Nutshell

    Bergen to Flåm Cruise Round-Trip (12.5 hours)

    If you want to avoid trains and buses and just be on the water, this is the ferry-only alternative to Norway in a Nutshell. The trip to Flåm from Bergen is about 5.5 hours one way. Of those 5.5 hours, the first two hours is spent cruising the coast, then you enter the Sognefjord (the world’s longest fjord). The last half an hour is spent cruising down the dramatic Aurlandsfjord, known for its steep mountains and beauty. This trip doesn’t include a visit to the Nærøyfjord. After two hours free time in Flåm, you take the same ferry back to Bergen.

    Honestly, I’ve done this trip one-way (Flåm-Bergen) before and found it to be quite dull.

    Bergen to Rosendal Fjord Cruise (approx. 7 hours)

    This lovely day trip from Bergen takes you to Rosendal. The cruise takes around two hours one way, and you get around three and a half hours in Rosendal. It gives you time to visit the Barony Rosendal, a historic building. It is regarded as Scandinavia’s smallest castle and the only one of its kind in the country.

    Rosendal is located on the Hardangerfjord but at the entrance to the fjord, so you don’t get to see much of the fjord itself. 

    You take a ferry back to Bergen the same way. 

    Learn more here: https://partner.rodne.no/en/to-do/2135799/day-trip-to-rosendal-in-hardanger/showdetails?sorting=st%3Da%3Bso%3Da

    Bergen to the Hardangerfjord (13 hours)

    This full-day trip takes you to the beautiful Hardangerfjord and combines bus and ferry transport to give you the best of Norwegian scenery. This one would be one of my top picks, just because I think the Hardangerfjord is lovely and not as over-crowded as some other fjords. The trip starts with a bus ride to Norheimsund, where you then board the ferry to travel down the Hardangerfjord from Eidfjord. Once in Eidfjord, a bus takes you to the Norwegian Nature Centre (a fantastic museum!) and then up to the dramatic Vøringsfossen (pictured above). The drive back to Bergen includes a stop at Steindalsfossen, a waterfall you can walk behind. It’s a long day, but this tour takes you deep into the fjord, where you get the more spectacular scenery.

    Learn more here: https://gofjords.com/experiences/fjord-cruise/bergen/hardangerfjord-cruise-and-voringsfossen-waterfall/?bw-date=2024-07-02&bw-adults=1

    Day Trip to the Sognefjord & Glaciers via Vik (13 hours)

    This trip is one I’d definitely recommend! The trip is fully guided and takes no more than 16 passengers. On the journey, you take a bus from Bergen to Vik, crossing the incredible Vikafjellet mountains. I love this drive! (It’s the Rv13 – see my guide here). Once in Vik, you are in a historic town rich in cultural heritage. The main attraction in Vik is the Hopperstad Stave Church, one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. The church was built in 1130 and (along with Urnes) is the oldest stave church in existence. You get to visit the church on this tour before boarding a ferry and taking a cruise across the Sognefjord. On the other side, you travel to Fjærland to get a chance to see the glacier and the Norwegian Glacier Museum. You had the same way back to Bergen afterwards.

    Of course this trip is more inland than on a cruise, but I think it’s a perfect mix of everything. Mountains, valleys, history, fjords and glaciers.

     

    Fjord Cruise & Hike Combination (7 hours)

    This full-day trip combines a fjord cruise with a mountain hike. The boat takes you along the Osterfjord to Modalen, Norway’s second-smallest municipality. You arrive in the village at around 11:30am and there you disembark and begin a short hike. The hike takes about one hour each one and has a vertical gain of 200 metres. You then take the boat back to Bergen.

    This sounds like a great way to spend the day if you have limited opportunities to go hiking in the nature surrounding Bergen.

    Final Thoughts on Fjord Cruises in Bergen

    As you can see, there are so many different options and it can seem overwhelming. But think about what you want – fjords, variety, etc – how much time you have, and your budget. This should help narrow things down quite well. 

    In my opinion, the full-day trips offer the best value for money. 

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Bergen is a fascinating city and well worth spending lots of time in. Be sure to check out my travel guide for Bergen by clicking the button above. 

  • Copenhagen, Walking Guides

    Christianshavn, Christian IV’s Merchant Town – Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Christianshavn - Christian IV's Merchant City - Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Christianshavn is the hipster cool district of Copenhagen. It makes it perfect for a self-guided walking tour!

    The neighbourhood – located just south of the city – was established in the 17th century by the infamous King Christian IV, who was heavily inspired by Dutch merchant towns such as Amsterdam. Christianshavn quickly became a rough sailors neighbourhood, and in the 1970s the hippies took over the Christiania commune and made it their town. 

    Today Christianshavn is becoming a high-end alternative neighbourhood in the heart of Copenhagen. It is still a great place to explore, thanks to its many preserved buildings. 

    In this article...

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    I offer downloadable versions of my self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Christianshavn Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins on the Christianshavn side of the Knippelsbro Bridge, which begins by Christiansborg Palace on its northern side. 

    Torvegade

    This is the main thoroughfare through Christianshavn, and some of the buildings here are very historic.

    Look at numbers 22, 24, 27 and 30. They are all from the 18th century and are listed buildings.

    Strandgade

    The street originally ran along the waterfront and is on the original plans of Christianshavn from 1617. The plots where not popular here, so the King had to give them away for free to wealthy citizens on the condition they build good commerce houses.

    The Danish East India Company and the Danish West India Company established their headquarters here.

    In 1738, Denmark’s first dry dock opened here.

    Strandgade 44

    This building is is Irgrens Gård. It was built on one of the original plots of land for Christianshavn and gets its name from Joachim Irgrens, who took over the property in 1664. Here there was the king’s copper works company, with the mining operations in Røros, Norway. The income was so great that at one point the company was able to lend the King money. The King did not pay Irgrens back, but instead gave him all of Northern Norway!

    Wildersgade

    This street is named after the merchant and shipyard owner, Carl Wilder, who in the 18th century ran a shipyard at Wilders Plads. This street was a slightly nicer street to be on than Strandgade, and many distinguished trading houses were here.

    Sankt Annæ Gade

    The street has been here since Christianshavn was founded and is named after Saint Anna, who was the mother of the Virgin Mary. There used to be a row of poor houses here, but they have since disappeared.

    Dronningensgade

    Dronningensgade has a number of interesting brick buildings.

    Number 67 was a girls school. The school was established in 1799 but moved to this building in 1912. The girls school was for girls aged between five and twelve, and the aim was to “educate the girls minds and make them good at handicrafts”. The school admitted students from both noble and bourgeois families, but that the principle that no distinction was made. French was taught, but not English, which the school believed was something the parents themselves had to ensure that the children learned. The school also admitted boys from 1976 onwards.

    The Church of Our Saviour

    The church of Christianshavn was supposed to be a couple blocks further west at Christianshavns Torv, but that never happened. This church was completed in 1696. The architect was Lambert van Haven, who designed the church in the Dutch Baroque style. It is built in the shape of a cross, which is not common in Denmark.

    Originally the church had no spire. Lambert died before the church was put into use, and the twisted spire was not part of his original plan. It was added to the church in 1750 and was designed by Laurids de Thurah. The spiral twist is probably inspired by the Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza church in Rome. It is said that Thurah threw himself from the tower because the spire twisted the wrong way in relation to the King’s wish, but that is just a myth.

    For a small fee, you can take the stairs all the way to the top of the spire!

    You can read more about visiting the Church of Our Saviour by clicking here. 

    Christiania

    If you were to turn left at Prinsessegade, you would reach the free-town Christiania. Christiania is a neighbourhood lived in by Copenhagen’s hippy and artists. Since its establishment by squatters in 1971, the area has drawn non-conformists from across the globe, attracted by the concept of collective business, workshops and communal living. Unfortunately Christiania is best-known for Pusher Street, where hash is openly traded despite it being very illegal in Denmark. There have been recent attempts to shut down Pusher Street in 2024, and it’s not the best place to visit in Christiania. Explore the neighbourhood, beautiful park areas, and see the wonderful DIY homes. There’s also great and cheap eateries here as well as regular concerts.

    Before its development, Christiania was an abandoned military camp. Some of the buildings in there are still standing 200-300 years later. Christiania also has some preserved ramparts. This walk is now going to go to some of the preserved ramparts out of the free town.

    Amager Port

    This was one of the four gates that brought you into Copenhagen. It is not known what the first gate looked like, but a gate was known from 1724 and it used to be closed at night. Next to the gate was a porter’s residence, which is the old building you can see.

    Across the street is the street Amager Gade, which was part of Christianshavn’s working class. In 1867, 1,000 people lived on the street – or 7% of the entire population. The street used to be much longer, but has since been cut up with Ved Volden. A large part of the streets houses are old and represent tenement barracks in a rich contrast to the merchant farms you saw earlier.

    Christianshavn's Ramparts

    The rampart you see here is the best-preserved part of Copenhagen’s fortifications from the 17th century.

    The facility was an integral part of the plan of the new district of Christianshavn. The ramparts were closed in 1909 and now it’s a park area.

    Sofiegade

    The street is named after Queen Sofie of Mecklenburg, who was Christian IV’s mother. There were many taverns on this street. Number 15 was Christianshavn Bathing Institution in 1909. It dates from a time when many residents did not have a bath in their apartment. There were separate entrances for men and women. Number 10 was a brandy distillery with cows on the first floor. The building is still a bathhouse today.

    Christiania's Torv

    This is the main square for Christianshavn. Originally the prison and Children’s house. The idea was to house people on the street and train them to be craftsmen to create a state production of cloth. Stray children were also taken in. It was described as a building for “deformed, disobedient and orphaned children”, but later also took thieves, beggars and women. It developed into something of a forced labour facility that produced clothing for the military.

    Conditions for the inmates were poor. The food served was considered unfit for human consumption.

    Children were no longer kept there from 1790 onwards, and it became more of a prison. In 1817, the prisoner’s rioted and burned down the building. It was rebuilt but demolished in 1928.

    The bridge you’ll cross back to Copenhagen is called Børnehusbroen – the Children’s House Bridge – and commemorates this building. Follow Torvegade back to Christiansborg, or from here you can take the metro.

    Christianshavn Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Enjoy your walk around Christianshavn! If you want a self-guided walk with more details, be sure to buy my downloadable Christianshavn self-guided walking tour. 

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide
  • Hikes, Odda

    The Reality of Hiking Troll Tongue

    The Reality of Hiking Troll Tongue

    Troll Tongue (Trolltunga in Norwegian) is one of the most famous hikes in Norway. The famous ‘tongue’ hanging over a cliff has become iconic on social media and travel blogs for Norway. Whenever I meet guests in Bergen, the young and fit ones tell me they are going to hike Troll Tongue. But what’s more common is I get guests telling me they are going here and my immediate thought is oh no, you won’t make it. I remember once having to tell them there’d be snow and they’d be risking their lives if they did it in February.

    Why are so many people ill-prepared? Well, it’s easy. They see the photo, they say “I can do that”, and off they go. It’s crazy. I hiked Troll Tongue back in 2016, and I didn’t enjoy it at all. And that was after doing a ton of research. But I vividly remember that as I was doing it, I was passing people in much worse shape than me, people in jeans, people in sneakers, and people without backpacks for food. 

    So, I’ve put together this guide to make it clear exactly what to expect when going to Troll Tongue. While I enjoy hiking, I am not an expert hiker and you should not take my word alone. I’ve tried to provide as many external links to Norwegian sources so you can read about the hike based on expert opinions. 

    The Reality of Hiking Troll Tongue

    The Rv13 Highway

    Odda is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv13 Highway
    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Setting Expectations

    Hiking grade level

    Because the trail is longer than 20km, the trail is automatically listed as an expert hike. However, it is definitely an expert-level hike! Although the trail is well-marked, you must be in very good shape and have excellent endurance. You must also have done mountain hikes before, preferably in Norway. 

    You must feel comfortable walking on uneven surfaces and up steep rock cliffs without things to hold onto. 

    The whole trail has been photographed on Google Maps, so you can get a sense of what the path looks like: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Fy8VgatULGyu4oNZ9 (go into street view after clicking that link)

    In Norway, our hiking website is called ut.no. They have a page for Troll Tongue, and while it’s in Norwegian, you can clearly make out information about the difficulty of the hike: https://ut.no/turforslag/115074/trolltunga-unik-hyfjellstur-ved-hardangerfjorden

    Go with a guide!

    If you are worried about your fitness level or ability to keep to the trail, book a guided tour. Here an expert Norwegian will guide you safely on the trail, assist you, and provide information along the way. 

    I cannot recommend this enough. 

    Read more about guided hiking here: https://trolltunga.com/plan-your-trip/guided-hiking/

    When can you do the hike?

    Hikers can go without a guide from June to September depending on the weather. Never take this at face level without checking the weather. Now in June we had snow a couple days ago. It is absolutely not safe to do Troll Tongue on snow or ice. 

    If you go from October – May without a guide, you are risking your life. The weather is unpredictable and snow or ice on the ground is risky when there are no barriers. Also, you risk getting stuck up there after dark. 

    How many nights do you need a hotel?

    Book your hotel for at least two nights. You can stay in Odda, Tyssedal or Ullensvang. Do not stay in Bergen and head to Troll Tongue for the day.

    Ideally, you should book somewhere for 4-5 nights and then pick the best-weather day of that period to hike Troll Tongue. Use the other days to do easier hikes, take fjord cruises, visit farms and museums, and see beautiful Western Norway. 

    When doing Troll Tongue, try to start no later than 7am. 

    What to bring

    You need to be wearing high quality, waterproof hiking boots. Bring with you very good clothing as you may be suddenly exposed to rain or cold weather without much warning. It is very important to bring lots of food and water. Do not wear jeans, trainers, or other everyday clothing.

    Also wear sunscreen! While we don’t have a high UV index, the sun is high above you for long periods of the day and can feel harsher than standing on a beach in Australia. 

    I remember I brought clean socks and was so so happy about it when I got to put them on. I wish we had brought a thermos with hot water and those meals that you hydrate. You can buy them in Norwegian outdoor shops. Look for this brand “Real Turmat” (click here). 

    Here’s a guide for what to wear and pack: https://trolltunga.com/plan-your-trip/equipment/

    Safety first

    If I haven’t yet convinced you to come fully prepared, here’s a video that was made by some Norwegians about what to expect on the mountains. 

    There is mobile phone coverage for most of the trail. However, do not rely on your phone for navigation. Have a printed map with you. 

    Click here for a basic map of Troll Tongue. 

    If you are reading online blogs about the hike, consider the source. I do understand the irony in this, but don’t read blogs from travel bloggers who came to Norway once, did the hike, and left. Read from official, Norwegian sources. Travel bloggers don’t have a realistic understanding of the hike and their fitness level may be different to yours. Even on this guide, I’m trying to provide as many external links as possible to Norwegian sources. Don’t trust my judgement alone – read everything and determine for yourself if you can handle the hike.

    Here is a great guide from VisitNorway about hiking safety: https://www.visitnorway.com/things-to-do/outdoor-activities/hiking/tips/

    Doing the hike

    Okay, you are sure you can do Troll Tongue. That’s great! Now let’s go through the practical bits. 

    Where to park and start the hike

    There are two parking lots – P2 and P3. The difference between the two is where they start. P2 starts at the foot of the mountain, while P3 starts 1km into the hike and skips the most challenging part of the hike – the steep, up-hill ascent. When I did the hike, there was no P3. In fact, they opened it one year after I did the hike, something I’m still a little bitter about.

    Anyway, if you are absolutely not an up-hill person then you want to go to P3. Trust me, you want to go to P3 unless you are a very skilled hiker. That first 1km of hiking involves pulling yourself up on ropes and climbing up rocks. If you start from P3, you conserve a lot of energy and save a lot of time.

    P3 does having parking spaces, but it is extremely limited and it’s highly likely you won’t get a park there. There is also a shuttle bus that takes you up there, which makes much more sense.

    Take the shuttle bus

    You can find shuttle bus information here: https://trolltunga.com/parking-and-transportation/shuttle-buses-and-taxi/

    How long does the hike take?

    If you start walking from P2, allow 8-12 hours for the 27km round-trip hike. If you start walking from P3, allow 7-10 hours for the 20km hike. Note that this depends heavily on your fitness level and the weather. We had pouring rain for half of the hike and it took considerably longer than planned.

    What to expect on the hike

    That first part (now skippable with the P3 carpark) was the most challenging part of the trip. Once you get part it, there is an excellent, well-marked trail. There is another steep climb about 45 minutes into the hike at what’s called the Gryteskaret Pass. This is one of the most strenuous stretches for the hike. You must be able to navigate yourself on uneven rocks.

    There will be another steep climb up to the Tromeskar pass, and from here you’ll be at a grassy valley very popular with campers. Shortly after passing that steep climb, you’ll make it to a view of the Ringedalsvatnet lake below in the valley.

    As you get closer to Troll Tongue, the trail will narrow, and you should be mindful of the high drop.  

    Overall, the trail is solid and well-marked because it is such a popular tourist attraction. Signs along the trail show the remaining distance to both Troll Tongue and back to the beginning of the trail.

    On the trail, it is possible to drink the natural water. However, do not drink water close to cabin areas or until you have reached the first emergency shelter just before Floren, about halfway to Troll Tongue. It’s better to fill water from a running stream than from a lake but be advised that water may contain impurities after heavy rainfall.

    There are no public toilets on the trail. Use the toilets at the parking lots before going up. Keep your toilet stops on the mountain far away from streams and lakes and downhill from trails.

    You must bring all your trash down from the mountains.

    Snow & rain

    It’s very common to see snow up here. In fact, it’s not recommended to hike the trail in May due to the risk of snow and ice. There are no barriers, so one slip in the wrong direction and it’s all over.

    Even in late June you may encounter patches of snow and cross streams, so waterproof boots are important and be sure to pack some extra socks.

    If you see rain forecast, do not go. There are no safety barriers and rocks become slippery when wet. If it means you miss hiking the trail altogether, so be it.

    Emergency shelters

    Two emergency shelters are located along the trail in case of a sudden storm or other emergency. The emergency shelters have sleeping bags, blankets and food rations.

    Save this in your phone: The emergency number

    The emergency number is 112.

    Arriving at Troll Tongue

    There is often a queue to go and stand out at Troll Tongue. It is likely that you will have to wait up to 90 minutes just to get out there and get the famous photo. When you get out there, stay a couple feet back from the edge of the cliff. People have fallen from here in the past.

    Wrapping up: Hiking Troll Tongue

    I live in Bergen, and we hear all the time in the news in summer about tourists getting stuck on the mountains and having to be rescued. It’s become a huge argument in the country if we should do more to prevent tourists from taking these hikes since they are so unprepared. If you want to do this hike, do your research. Read from official, Norwegian websites and study the trail on Google Maps. Get a printed copy of the map and buy good quality hiking gear. Seriously consider booking a guide to go with you. Make the right decisions. Don’t skip essential parts because you are short on cash or time. At the end of the day, is risking your life worth it for a photo? No, not really!

    Also, don’t do this hike just for the shot for Instagram. There are so many wonderful hikes around Norway, and many with arguably better views, so you don’t have to do this one just because it’s famous. Why waste your day queuing for 90 minutes for the photo when you can choose a less challenging hike with better views and no crowds?

    When I did the hike in 2016, I researched the trail extensively, went with a group, and even had my husband’s cousin come with us (he is an experienced hiker in Norway) who brought food, shelter, and helped us on the trail. However, we made many mistakes. We went on a day when rain was forecast and had a very challenging time getting back down the mountain after visiting Troll Tongue. In hindsight, it was completely unsafe. Now, eight years later and wiser and with lots of experience hiking around Western Norway, I would go back and do it again and probably do a lot better.

    All in all, there’s no shame in saying “this isn’t for me”. But if you do decide to go, make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into. 

    The Rv13 Highway

    Odda is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv13 Highway
    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Troll Tongue is located close to Odda, and you should be staying in Odda for at least two nights during your hike. Read my travel guide for Odda above. 

  • History, Stockholm

    The History of Stockholm (Summarised)

    The History of Stockholm (Summarised)

    Stockholm is such a cool city. I’d argue that it is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Thankfully, Sweden was neutral during World War II and therefore the old town of Stockholm remains as one of the best-preserved in all of Europe. But besides maintaining its original look and charm, Stockholm has had a turbulent history affected by unions, wars and plenty of murders. I don’t think any other Nordic capital has so many stories of bloodbaths and murders! Up until very recently, Stockholm was an overcrowded and poor place to live. Now, it has transformed itself into a Green Capital and modern city.

    Here’s my summarised version of the history of Stockholm, focusing on places you can see today. 

    The History of Stockholm

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Stockholm, including practical information and things to do. 

    Stockholm During the Viking Age

    Not much is known about Stockholm before the city was officially founded, and even that is contested. However, what is known is that the oldest settlement on Lake Mälaren is Birka, about 30 kilometres west of Stockholm. Birka was founded in the 8th century and was a major Viking town. Today Birka is on the UNESCO World Heritage List and is a popular day-trip from Stockholm (It is on my to-do list so I can film it!).

    After Birka was abandoned around 975AD, Sigtuna emerged as the Viking capital of Sweden and was also an important missionary outpost and regarded as where Christianity came to Sweden. Again, visiting here is on my to-do list. 

    But what about Stockholm? It’s not exactly known if people were living here then. The water level of the lake was about five metres higher than it is today. However, the area around Stockholm had settlements and items from the Viking Age, including a sword, have been found around Stockholm. 

    Stockholm is Officially Founded

    According to the Chronicles of Saint Eric, written in the 1320s, Stockholm was founded by Birger Jarl in 1253 as a lock to Lake Mälaren to prevent pirates from reaching the cities around it. The first fortress was built roughly where Stockholm palace is today and was a castle called the Tre Kronor (Three Crowns/Three Kingdoms). 

    What’s the oldest building in Stockholm? Many claim that it’s Birger Jarl’s tower, located on Riddarholmen Island, but it’s not – it was built as a defence tower in the 1530s. What’s considered to be the oldest building is Riddarholmen Church. Parts of the church are from the 1280s and the church was constructed as a burial church for the royals. Storkyrkan, the main church next to the palace, has remains from the 13th century and was a coronation church. 

    Riddarholmen Church

    Riddarholmen Church is regarded as the oldest building in Stockholm and was where the royals and many prominent citizens were buried. It is today a museum and well-worth a visit!

    Riddarholmen Church

    What Does Stockholm Mean?

    The name ‘Stockholm’ is made up of two distinct parts – ‘Stock’ means ‘log’, while ‘Holm’ means ‘islet’. According to a 17th century myth, the population of Birka wanted to found a new settlement, so they floated a log down the lake. It landed on Riddarholmen, where the Tower of Birger Jarl stands. 

    Stockholm, the Important Trading Port

    Shortly after its founding, Stockholm became an important trading port. King Birger Jarl made an agreement with the German Hanseatic League, where he invited them to settle in Stockholm and promised them generous privileges. It was, however, King Magnus Ladulås (1275-1290) who strengthened the relationship with the Hanseatic League. 

    Stockholm transformed into the central port for all trade on the Gulf of Bothnia. The streets around Gamla Stan were divided into neighbourhoods for different craftsmen and interest groups. Craftsmen lived on Köpmangatan (literally “Merchant Street”), and shoemakers lived on Skomakargatan. Both of those streets are the oldest streets in Stockholm – from 1323 and 1337 respectively. Those working with iron and metals lived on Järntorget (Iron Square). Stortorget (Main Square) became the centre of trade for Gamla Stan. 

    Stockholm imported salt, spices, beer, wine, clothing, and luxury goods such as silk, weapons of armours. Exports were iron and copper, local hides, dried fish, butter, and fires.

    Kalmar Union

    In 1380, the three Scandinavian countries entered into a union called the Kalmar Union. How it happened is complicated and is worthy of its own separate article (writing that down for the future!). However, Sweden and Denmark did not get along. Having control of Stockholm was crucial of controlling the kingdom of the Kalmar Union, and many people in Stockholm were against the union. So, this led to around 150 years of battles, fights and blockades.

    Life in Stockholm during the Kalmar Union was tough. There were a large number of Finns and Germans here and the Germans especially had a very strong position in Stockholm. In the city council half of the members had to be German. The Hanseatic League grew in importance here. Eventually, due to fires, Stockholm starts to get more houses in stone.  

    Fun fact – no other countries have gone to ware against each other as much as Denmark and Sweden. 

    Sten Sture the Elder takes Stockholm in 1471

    After many fights between Denmark and Sweden, Sten Sture the Elder, a Swedish statesman, defeated the Danish King Christian I of Denmark at the Battle of Brunkeberg in 1471. He held Stockholm for only six years before losing the city to Hans of Denmark. Sten managed to get power back in 1501, but this resulted in a Danish blockade lasting 1502-1509. Hans’ son, Christian II of Denmark, continued the ambitions of his father and made failed attempts to conquer the city in 1517 and 15718. He finally got Stockholm and forced Queen Christina Gyllenstierna, who was leading the resistance, to capitulate in 1520. The archbishop Gustav Trolle crowned Christian the King of Sweden. 

    St. George & The Dragon

    One of the most famous statues in Stockholm is that of St. George and the Dragon. The original statue is in Storkyrkan, while there is a copy in Gamla Stan. Sten Sture the Elder is represented as St. George, while the dragon represents Denmark. 

    Stockholm Bloodbath

    The Stockholm Bloodbath is one of the most famous events in Swedish history. After Christian II of Denmark took Stockholm in 1520, he invited all the nobles and burghers to a feast. They had all been against him, so either he was trying to make amends, or something bad was about to happen.

    Considering the title of this section, you probably know where this is going!

    All the attendees of the feast were imprisoned, and a council, headed by Archbishop Trolle, sentenced them to death for being heretics. About 82 people were executed. It’s believed that Christian II also had Sten Sture’s body dug up and burnt, as well as the body as his child. Sten’s widow and many noblemen were taken prisoner in Denmark. 

    Gamla Stan Houses

    It is said that each stone on the iconic red house in Gamla Stan represents one of the victims. 

    Gamla Stan Walking Tour

    Gustav Vasa Takes Stockholm

    Gustav Vasa was a son of one of the victims of the executions. After hearing of the massacre, he gathered support and led a revolt, in which he was able to defeat the Danish forces during the Swedish War of Liberation. This permanently separated Sweden from Denmark. At the time he conquered the city, he noted that every second building was abandoned. 

    When Gustav Vasa became king, he brought in many reforms to break the political power of bishops in Sweden. He also demolished monasteries and built defence facilities. As the Bloodbath had killed many of the city’s prominent citizens, the King was able to appoint magistrates as he wished and therefore controlled the city. He also brought the Reformation to Stockholm. 

    16th Century Growth

    Stockholm’s social and economic importance began to grow quickly. By controlling trade from Stockholm, the king effectively controlled national trade. Lubeck remained the most important trading partner and German influence was more tangible than before, with low German being a common language in Stockholm. In the 1570s, the population was about five times as many as in Uppsala, Sweden’s then second-largest city.

    When Eric XIV, son of Gustav Vasa, was crowned King in 1561, the title became hereditary and the kingdom was now financed by taxes. 

    The Swedish Empire

    The Swedish Empire (1611 – 1718) is a period of history in which Sweden controlled large parts of the Baltic and was viewed as one of the great European powers. In Stockholm, the city grew sixfold and many of its current streets were laid out. 

    At the beginning of the 17th century, Stockholm was still a medieval city with narrow alleyways and simple wooden houses. The Stockholm environment was so shabby that people were embarrassed when foreigners were invited to the city in connection with Gustav II’s funeral in 1634. They were worried that the sight of Stockholm would ruin Sweden’s international authority. So, this is where we see many new brick buildings in European styles being built.

    Speaking of Gustav II (the grandson of Gustav Vasa), he is the one who commissioned the ill-fated Vasa warship in 1624. The ship sunk on its maiden voyage in 1628. 

    Vasa Museum

    The Vasa Ship is one of the most important pieces from Stockholm’s history and you can see the ship at the Vasa Museum. 

    The Vasa Museum

    Fires & Reconstruction

    The Castle in 1661

    Throughout the 17th century, Stockholm was modernised. However, this started largely thanks to a number of major fires the city experienced. New boulevard streets were created and the medieval wall was replaced with a row of palaces that became known as Skeppsbron.

    In 1697, the castle was destroyed by fire. It was rebuilt immediately and completed in the 1750s. Builders and architects from France who had recently worked on Versailles were brought in to design the new palace. 

    Stockholm was still largely dependent on trade and ships passing through the city. Stockholm lacked the resources, such as livestock, to support themselves. All goods brought to Stockholm had to pass through one of six custom stations, generating income for the city.

    In the 1630s and 1640s the neighbourhoods of Norrmalm and Södermalm begin to be developed. New wide streets were laid out inspired by the Renaissance, and to make these new streets hundreds of houses and farms were demolished. Considering the size of the city, it was a transformation that was far greater in scope than the transformation that came in the 1950s-1970s, which we’ll get to later. 

    Södermalm

    Södermalm is today one of the hippest neighbourhoods in Stockholm, but it is also one of the few places in the city where you can see historic wooden houses. Follow my walking tour below!

    Södermalm walking Tour

    The Age of Liberty

    Due to several major losses at war, Sweden’s role as a major European power was over, and in the 18th century many disasters happened. 

    Wars and alcohol led to a surplus of women in the city. Stockholm also had an absence of children, caused by the high number of unmarried people and high infant mortality. There was economic segregation in the city.

    The mercantile model developed, with domestic production promoted by lows and import limited to raw materials not available in Sweden. This led to the rise of the Skeppsbro Nobility, the wealthy wholesalers at Skeppsbron in Gamla Stan who made a fortune delivering bar iron to the international market. The Swedish East India Company was important to Stockholm as it led to a rise in shipbuilding yards and exotic products being available. However, with up to 150 men per ship and a single trip to China taking up to 2 years, it made a huge impact on Stockholm and the lack of men in the city. 

    After more fires, building codes were established and wooden buildings were prohibited. We start to see more monumental buildings in this period, such as the Stock Exchange building from the 1770s (now the Nobel Museum).  

    Gustavian Era & Grand Buildings

    Under Gustav III (1772-1809), the Enlightenment came to Stockholm. The King had great interest in the city’s development and created the Gustav Adolf Square and had the Royal Opera inaugurated there. On the king’s initiative, Haga Park, the Academy of Music, the Painting and Sculptor Academy, the Swedish Theatre, the Royal Ballet, the Swedish Academy and the Academy of History and the History of Antiquities were added. 

    The neoclassical Norrbro bridge was completed and led to people beginning to move out of the city. 

    The period ended when King Gustav III was executed at the Royal Opera he created, and King Gustav IV was deposed in 1809 in a coup d’etat, the same year Sweden lost Finland. This meant that Stockholm ceased to be the geographical centre of the Swedish kingdom. 

    The Industrial Era

    Stockholm 1868

    At the turn of the 19th century, most people still lived at Gamla Stan. Norrmalm was still the wealthy part of town and Södermalm was still working class with the outskirks not having water or sewerage systems. The mortality rate in Stockholm was very high, with every third child dying before the age of one. The population was around 71,000. In the 1860s, these neighbourhoods were re-designed with parks and esplanades inspired by the Champs Elysees. 

    In the second half of the 19th century, Stockholm regained its economic role. New industries emerged and Stockholm was transformed into an important trade centre. During the 1850s and 1860s, gas works, sewerage, and running water were introduced. Streets were paved and the railway came to Stockholm with the central station being completed in 1871. 

    Urban development was notable in central Stockholm, where several prominent neo-Renaissance buildings were built. Towards the 1880s, many monumental brick buildings were built, including Gamla Riksarkivet (The National Archives) building. 

    In the 1880s and 1890s, the new district Östermalm emerged, with new luxurious buildings.

    By the end of the century, the population had exploded to 245,000. 

    The Early 20th Century

    During World War I, construction practically stopped. Shortly after the war, Sweden was incredibly overcrowded.

    The Stockholm City Hall was completed in 1923. This is where the annual Nobel Banquet is held. The building became one of Sweden’s foremost buildings from the National Romantic Era. 

    Stockholm City Hall

    Stockholm City Hall is an impressive building to visit and is open for tours all year round. 

    Stockholm City Hall

    Modernism had its breakthrough in the early 1930s. New houses were built in the Stockholm suburbs and they all came with heating, a private bathroom, flushing toilet, hot and cold water, and a modern kitchen. 

    World War II

    Stockholm was largely unaffected by World War II, making it one of the best-preserved European capitals. 

    Into Modern Times

    In the late 20th century, Stockholm became a modern, technologically advanced, and ethnically diverse city. 

    Between the 150s and 1970s, practically the whole of the neighbourhood Norrmalm was torn down and rebuilt in the functionalist style of architecture. Click here to see an example. It was heavily criticised at the time and maybe many today think the modern buildings are not so nice. However, a big reason for doing this was to build the subway through Stockholm, which opened in 1950. 

    In 1967, all of Stockholm (and Sweden) changed from driving on the left to driving on the right. 

    On 12 February 1986, Swedish Prime Minister Olof Palme was shot dead at the Sveavågen-Tunnelgatan intersection. The investigation became Sweden’s largest and most expensive ever and is not yet solved.

    In 2006, the Stockholm trial begin. It was a trial of introducing a congestion tax for car traffic in the city, together with expanded public transportation. A referendum following the trial led to its permanent status on 1 August 2007. In 2010, Stockholm was the European Capital of the Environment.

    That about wraps up all I had to say about the history of Stockholm. I hope this overview helps you understand the city better when you visit for yourself!

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Stockholm, including practical information and things to do. 

  • History, Kristiansand

    The History of Kristiansand – Norway’s Southernmost Major City

    The History of Kristiansand

    The history of Kristiansand is quite fascinating for a city that is considered to be ‘new’ by Norwegian stands. Only founded in the 17th century, Kristiansand was established because of its strategic location on the tip of southern Norway on the Skaggerak strait – the important crossing from the North Sea into the Baltic Sea. However, even though the city is only around 400 years old, traces of settlement show that people have lived here for thousands of years. 

    Here is a summarised history of Kristiansand with a focus on places you can visit when you visit this lovely city. 

    The History of Kristiansand

    The E39 Highway

    Kristiansand is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    The E39 Highway
    Kristiansand Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Kristiansand, including practical information and things to do. 

    Prehistoric Kristiansand

    In recent years, there have been a number of important discoveries showing life in prehistoric Kristiansand. The most important find is the Søgne woman, the oldest human discovery in Norway. She was discovered in 1994 one metre below the surface in the neighbourhood of Søgne. The skeletal parts have been dated to 7910 – 7600 BC. 

    There has also been a discovery of a settlement from the Stone Age at the place Grauthelleren in the neighbourhood of Fidje, located on the south-east coast of Kristansand city centre. It is not possible to visit this site, though. Additional traces of settlement, including a round house and pit, were discovered under cultivated land in the 1970s. Uniquely, round houses are not common in Norway. 

    Oddernes & Settlement in the Middle Ages

    The earliest traces of permanent settlement have been found in the neighbourhood of Oddernes to the north of current-day Kristiansand. Pits, houses and pottery have been found along with evidence of pagan worship.

    The compact burial ground known as Klempegravene på Odderenes (not accessible) is one of southern Norway’s largest burial grounds in pre-Christian times. 

    An important testimony of a larger and organised society over more than 1,000 years is Oddernes Church, built in 1040. Inside the church’s armoury is a large runestone called the Oddernessteinen, which mentions Saint Olav. The fact that the church is built in stone symbolises wealth and status, meaning Oddernes must’ve been an important place. The stone originally stood outside the church but has since been moved inside. 

    Oddernes Church

    Oddernes Church is the oldest building in Kristiansand. The first church to be located here may have been built by Øyvind, the godson of Olav the Holy. The middle part of the church is the oldest part and dates back to the 12th century. The church was expanded after the Reformation. In the churchyard, burial mounds indicate this was an important place back to 400AD, and there used to be a royal farm here.

    It is possible to visit Oddernes Church. The church is located just off the E18 highway at this address: Jegersbergveien 2

    Trade & Shipping Traffic in the 16th Century

    The interest in southern Norway as a trade hub is thanks to the Dutch, who began to compete with the powerful German Hanseatic League in the 16th century. Therefore, the Dutch began trading in Mandal, close to Kristiansand, around 1450. Danish ships arrived around the same time to trade, while ships from Scotland came in 1520. For the Dutch, it was the timber trade that was most of interest, especially oak. 

    Before the Kiel Canal was constructed, the area around Kristiansand was of strategic importance because the naval base could control access to the Danish straits and Baltic Sea. Because of that, the Danes also established a military base here. 

    Establishment of Kristiansand under Christian IV

    The eccentric but heavily influential King Christian IV visited the area around Kristiansand twice – in 1630 and 1635. He saw the flat plain by the sea being used for pastures and envisioned a city with large, wide streets in a grid pattern according to the Renaissance ideals of the time (called kvadraturen). 

    “Christiansand” (original spelling) was founded by King Christian IV on the 5th of July, humbly naming the city after himself. The town got its Renaissance grid plan, and merchants in the county of Agder were ordered to move to the town. In return, they would get trade privileges and ten years of tax exemption. 

    Kristiansand quickly became the southernmost major city in Norway.

    Shortly after its founding, two new fortresses were built: Fredriksholm and Christiansholm. 

    Fra Frederik 5s atlas. Source: Riksarkivet, Oslo, Norway

    Fredriksholm Fortress

    Fredriksholm fortress was completed in 1662 and is named after the Danish King Fredrik III. The fortress closed in 184, though was partly restored in 1874. When Roald Amundsen was setting out on his expedition to the South Pole in 1910, the harbour here was the last stop in Norway before his departure. At the fortress, almost 100 Greenland dogs were waiting to come aboard the ‘Fram’ ship. 

    The remains of the fortress can be seen, but the fortress is out on an island and difficult to get to. 

    Christiansholm Fortress

    Christiansholm Fortress was part of the plan for Kristiansand when Christian IV founded the city. Construction was completed in 1672, though many extensions were made after that. The facilities were mentioned at the same level as Akershus Fortress in Oslo and Bergenhus Fortress in Bergen. The fortress was closed in 1872. Today you can take a ferry to visit and there are regular cultural events held here. 

    As Kristiansand grew, it overtook other Norwegian cities for important things. For example, in 1682 the King moved the episcopal seat from Stavanger to Kristiansand. 

    The town experienced its first major fire in 1734, when 333 houses were destroyed. 

    Shipbuilding emerged as a major industry in Kristiansand throughout the 18th century. 

    Naopoleonic Wars

    The Napoleonic Wars with the accompanying blockade and naval war caused an upswing in trade for Kristiansand, but with the declaration of war from England came years of emergency.

    Denmark-Norway supported France and was therefore exposed to attacks from the British on Danish-Norwegian ship. The British liner HMS Spencer entered the Kristiansandsfjord on the 18th of September 1807 and were fired upon from Christiansholm fortress. The British captured the disused Fredriksholm fortress, which was blown up and destroyed. 

    The story of Terje Vigen is from this time. You can read the poem and some background into the poem by clicking here. 

    French troops were garrisoned in Kristiansand during the Napoleonic Wars, often in private homes. The rented quarters got the nickname Pose Byen (French town) and this neighbourhood still has that name.

    In the early 19th century, Kristiansand was known to be a dangerous and lawless harbour town, but eventually a Pietist revival as a reaction to these conditions came. 

    Posebyen

    Posebyen is the name of the charming neighbourhood in the eastern part of Kristiansand. The neighbourhood has one of the biggest collection of wooden houses in Norway.

    19th Century Growth

    Throughout the 19th century Kristiansand remained an important port of call for goods leaving Norway, and this created massive fortunes in the city.

    In the 1830s, growth in Norwegian shipping was centered on Kristiansand. From the middle of the 19th century, Kristiansand and Arendal advanced to become the world’s leading shipping cities. 

    Arendal Travel Guide

    The ships sailed with timber and lumber ot England, carried grain to Russia, the United States and Canada, and carried cotton to the West Indies. Some even went as emigrant ships to the United States. However, towards the end of the 19th century, both cities held onto sailing ships for too long as steamships began to overtake trade. Because of that, the shipping industry began to dramatically decline. The largest shipping company in Norway in the 1890s was Stray, which had 70 sailing ships and 15 steamships. 

    An important event for the city was the establishment of Eg Sindssygeasyl in 1891, the second central psychiatric institution in Norway after Gaustad. The psychiatric hospital attracted highly trained doctors to the city and was a pioneering institution in Norwegian psychiatry. It also provided many jobs for women.

    The last major fire in Kristiansand happened in 1892, when the southern half of Kvadraturen up to Rådhusgata was destroyed. 

    World War I and the Interwar Period

    During World War I, Kristiansand was a neutral shipping town. The town grew thanks to this economic boost, and banks and trading houses were built.

    However, during the Interwar Period there was a housing shortage after a strong population growth, and unemployment intensified social problems. Kristiansand became a centre for intellectuals. Bauhaus architect Thilo Schoder came here, escaping Hitler’s Germany in 1932. Arnulf Øverland was also a frequent guest of the city. 

    Thilo Schoder

    Thilo Schoder was a famous Bauhaus architect from Germany. He escaped Hitler’s Germany in 1932 to come to Kristiansand. He was arrested by the Nazis in Kristiansand in May 1940 but survived the war by designing barracks for the Nazis. The long blocks of flats in Solbygg (pictured left) are architectural highlights of functionalism in Norway. 

    Arnulf Øverland

    Arnulf Øverland was a Norwegian writer, poet, critic and advocate of the national language. He was the last person in Norway to be prosecuted for blasphemy, in 1933, after giving the lecture “Christianity – the tenth scourge of the land” in Oslo. He was also very critical of Nazism, and in 1936 wrote the poem “You Must Not Sleep”. It ends with: “I thought: Now something is happening. / Our time is over – Europe is burning». A well-known part from the poem reads: “You must not bear so heartily / the injustice that does not affect you!”

    Øverland was one of the Norwegian delegates to the Hague Congress in 1948, which laid the foundations for the European Convention of Human Rights and the Council of Europe.

    World War II

    Kristiansand was attacked on the 9th of April 1940 by the Nazi naval forces. On board were approximately 1,100 landing troops. The fortress on Odderøya fell. German troops occupied the city. The Nazis built coastal fortifications and took over the military bases.

    Postwar Period

    During the reconstruction after the war, Lund was developed with unique houses in the Bauhaus style, designed by Thilo Schoder.

    Lund in Kristiansand

    Lund is a neighbourhood to the east of Kristiansand. Traces of people have been found back to the early Iron Age, through the Viking Age and up to the early Middle Ages in some places. There has been settlement here since the Stone Age. In the Viking Age, there was a nobleman’s farm here. The area has eventually been developed into a neighbourhood and now the University of Agder is located here.

    In the 1980s, the city’s industry and business were down, and only two shipping companies were left in town. In the 1990s the engineering community began to emerge and develop companies for ship and offshore equipment, safety technology and well drilling.

    Kristiansand also became one the country’s leading locations for telephone sales and call centres, with more than 1,000 employees in this industry.

    The E39 Highway

    Kristiansand is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    The E39 Highway
    Kristiansand Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Kristiansand, including practical information and things to do. 

  • Museums, Stockholm

    The Vasa Museum Stockholm – Scandinavia’s Most Visited Museum

    The Vasa Museum Stockholm

    I always visit the Vasa Museum when I am in Stockholm. Perhaps it’s because every group tour passes through there, but honestly I would go on my own too. During COVID, when I was doing virtual tours, I was even given special permission to do a virtual tour around the museum. Over 500 people tuned in – it was awesome!

    Why do I love the museum? So many reasons. But I think it’s the sheer scale of the Vasa ship that you feel as soon as you step in. The ship is incredibly well-preserved and that alone fascinates me. But the museum is also well-planned and has a number of wonderful things to do.

    Here is my guide for the best way to utilise your time in the Vasa Museum. 

    Vasa Museum Stockholm

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Stockholm, including practical information and things to do. 

    About the Vasa Museum

    The Vasa Museum opened in 1990 and has quickly become the most visited museum in Scandinavia. Inside you’ll see the Vasa ship – the world’s best-preserved 17th century ship and one of the most valuable historic artefacts from the time period in Scandinavia. 

    History of the Vasa Ship

    Vasa is a completely unique historic artefact. The ship was constructed between 1626 and 1628 under the orders of King Gustavus Adolphus as part of the military expansion he initiated in a war with Poland-Lithuania (1621-1629). The ship was richly decorated as a symbol of the king’s ambitions for Sweden and himself, and upon completion she was one of the most-armed vessels in the world. 

    However, there were problems. Big problems!

    Vasa, as beautiful as she was, was just too top heavy. Construction had been rushed and overly ambitious. A single gust of wind was enough to topple her. 

    The Vasa ship sank roughly 1,300 metres (1,400 yards) into her maiden voyage on the 10th of August 1628. Most of the bronze canyons were salvaged, but otherwise the ship sat at the bottom of the Baltic Sea for a little over 300 years.

    Vasa was located in the late 1950s and the ship was salvaged with a fully intact hull in 1961. 98% of the ship is original and is decorated with hundreds of carved sculptures. 

    If you want to learn more about the history of Vasa, the museum website has a fantastic timeline: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/explore/vasa-history/timeline

    Constructing the Museum

    Originally the ship was housed in a temporary structure and she was continuously treated with polyethylene glycol. There was a possibility for visitors to view her, but there were only two levels for people to stand and visibility was limited.

    In 1981, the Swedish government decided that a permanent museum should be constructed. An architectural competition was held, and 284 architects sent in models of their ideas. The winners were Marianne Dahlback and Goran Mansson. 

    The museum was built around a dry dock, and the Vasa was towed into the flooded dry dock under the new building in December 1987. 

    The museum has a large copper roof with stylised masts representing the height of the Vasa when she was fully rigged. 

    The Main Hall & the Exhibitions

    When you enter the museum, you enter into the main hall. The Vasa stands there towering over you, and it is incredible. 

    You have the chance to walk around the ship from the ground level before continuing to the exhibitions. On the ground level is a small model of the Vasa ship too. 

    There are exhibitions on each of the six floors related to the Vasa but also including archaeological finds from the ships. Archaeological finds include two original cannons, various tools and personal items, and objects used on the ship. The displays are interactive and allow you to learn about the ships history and construction. 

    Highlights for me are firstly the exhibition about the statues on the ship and the original paint colours the ship had. Another highlight is the section where they have recreated part of the ships interior to help you understand what life was like on board. 

    Vasa Ship Movie

    It is well worth starting with the movie when you arrive at the museum, as it perfectly encapsulates the history of the Vasa, recovering the ship, and the work they are doing to preserve the ship. After the movie, try to join one of the guided tours before exploring independently. See information below for guided tours. The movie only lasts for 17 minutes so it’s easy to fit in with your visit.

    You can plan your movie screening ahead of time: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/visit/filmen-about-vasa

    How to Plan Your Visit

    How do plan a Vasa visit? First, order your ticket online in advance. After that, find the movie time that suits you and aim to get there maybe 20 minutes before the movie starts. Drop off your bags at the lockers and then head into the movie. 

    After the movie, join a guided tour. When the guided tour ends, wander the various exhibits. Then you can head to the restaurant or shop!

    Practical Information

    Swedish name

    Vasamuseet

    Getting Here

    The Vasa Museum is located on the island Djurgården in the eastern part of Stockholm city centre. The museum is located behind the large brick Nordic Museum. Tram line number 7 goes past the Vasa Museum.

    The Vasa Museum is located close to the ABBA Museum, Skansen open-air museum and the Nordic Museum, so you can spend the full day out on Djurgården. 

    Admission & Prices

    Up-to-date prices can be found on the Vasa Museum website: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/visit/hours–admission

    Note that the prices vary depending on what time of year you visit. 

    Book your tickets in advance! You’ll avoid having to stand in line for a ticket on the day. When booking online, just select the day you are visiting – there’s no exact time you have to book in advance. The tickets are fully refundable.

    When buying online, you can buy combination tickets with other museums close to Vasa. 

    The museum is cash free, so if you are planning on doing some spending be sure to have your card ready. 

    Travelling with Kids

    The museum has a special trail for kids to follow when they are in the museum. They also have a film called the “Vasa Piglet” which is based on a picture book and tells the story of the Vasa ship in a much different way.

    Read more about kids activities here: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/visit/kids–families

    Opening Hours

    Try to go outside of busy times (middle of the day) as in summer it gets packed in there. If you want to avoid crowds, either visit the museum as soon as it opens or an hour or two before closing. During the school year you are likely to run into groups, while during school holidays there are lots of families there.

    In general, the museum is open daily between 10am and 5pm. On Wednesdays, the museum is open untl 8pm.

    You can find up-to-date opening hours on the museum website: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/visit/hours–admission

    Bags

    Large bags are not allowed into the museum. They have lockers in the main hall that you can use for free. 

    Guided Tours

    The guides at Vasa are excellent and highly trained, and joining one of their tours ensures you’ll get to hear the best of the ships story. They have public guided tours throughout the day, or you can opt to book a private tour. I have never been disappointed with a guided tour at Vasa.

    The guided tours are included in the ticket price and English-language tours run more or less every 30 minutes. You can find more information here: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/visit/guided-tours

    Wifi

    The museum has free Wifi

    Wifi

    An audio guide in different languages is available. You can find the audio guide here: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/visit/audioguide

    Accessibility

    The museum is accessible to visitors with disabilities. Lifts are available on all the floors, and wheelchairs can be borrowed at the information desk.
    Read more about accessibility here: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/visit/accessibility

    Restaurant

    The restaurant inside the museum has standard diner food (sandwiches, meatballs, soups) but is quite nice. Children’s portions are available at a reduced price. For traditional Swedish fika (coffee break), there are cakes, buns and cookies. All food is prepared with Swedish ingredients.

    Gluten or lactose free options can be ordered in advance, just contact the restaurant. mail: info@vasamuseetsrestaurang.se

    Museum Shop

    The souvenir shop is excellent. There’s a vast range of books, kits to build your own Vasa, toys, shirts, and even toy rats!

    Enjoy your visit to the Vasa Museum Stockholm!

    Let me know in the comments if you have any questions, or contact me at emma@thehiddennorth.com if you need help planning a trip to Sweden!

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Stockholm, including practical information and things to do. 

  • Museums, Oslo

    Visiting the Resistance Museum in Oslo

    The Resistance Museum Oslo - Norway's Most Important WWII Museum

    The Resistance Museum Oslo is one of the main museums about World War II in Norway. The war in Norway is not often talked about on a global scale, but the impact on the country was huge. Norway was the most occupied country in Europe and a large part of the country above the Arctic Circle was destroyed when the Nazis retreated in 1944/45. Because of the heavy occupation on a relatively young country, there was a huge resistance movement that performed various acts of sabotage.

    Whenever I am in Oslo with a group this is one of the museums I recommend. Many of us from outside of Europe haven’t heard about the severe impact of the war on Norway, and this museum is incredibly eye-opening and informative. It’s well presented and provides a good overview of the war. It is especially worth visiting if you are planning on visiting multiple cities in Norway. 

    Here’s my overview of the Resistance Museum in Oslo. 

    Resistance Museum Oslo

    Oslo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Oslo, including practical information and things to do. 

    Establishment of the Resistance Museum in Oslo

    The museum was founded in 1962 by several key representatives from organisations made up of civilians and military personnel. Originally, it was a private foundation. The museum opened to the public in May 1970 and Crown Prince Harald was in attendance. The opening coincided with the 25th anniversary of Norwegian liberation. The museum was designed by Otto Torgersen, who worked with key personnel representing various branches of the underground forces. In 1995, the museum was handed over to the State by the Ministry of Defence.

    The museums founders wanted to strengthen the collective will to protect national freedom and otherwise contribute to a continued support for Norwegian democratic values. Additionally, it was important to strengthen knowledge about the years of occupation for future generations and research.

    Location & Building

    The museum is housed in a building that forms part of the Akershus Fortress complex. The fortress was used by the Nazis as a prison and torture centre and executions of Norwegians took place in the courtyard by the Resistance Museum. After the war, Quisling was executed by firing squad at the fortress.

    To get here, you have to enter the fortress complex and make your way up the cobblestone path towards the main Akershus Fortress museum. The Resistance Museum is located just before the main museum. The walk is a little steep for some to get here. There is a staircase up to the museum, or you can follow the ramp path up as well.

    Akershus Fortress Self-Guided Walk

    We have a self-guided walk around Akershus Fortress, which includes the Resistance Museum. 

    View self-guided walk

    Exhibitions

    The exhibitions have recreated five years of occupation through pictures, documents, posters, objects, models, original copies of newspapers and recordings. The exhibition begins with the day Norway is invaded on the 9th of April 1940 and ends with the liberation on the 8th of May 1945.

    What I like about the museum is that it doesn’t just focus on one element of the war, even though the name ‘Resistance Museum’ may make it sound like it’s only about the resistance. Rather, it places the war in a wider context, ranging from military aspects to the everyday life of ordinary citizens. I also appreciate the museum isn’t so high tech with iPads and televisions everywhere. Yes, you get some interesting home-made dioramas, but I find it charming. In many ways, it’s an ‘old fashioned’ museum in the best way possible.

    The Resistance Museum celebrates the effort of the Norwegian resistance, highlighting key events like the Vemork power plant sabotage but also telling the story of the everyday acts of resistance. The museum also covers the tragic sides of the war, including the reign of terror of the SS and Gestapo and the prison and concentration camps that were in Norway, along with the deportation of Norwegian Jews.

    There are English translations for most of the items on display, but items like newspapers or posters have not been translated into English.

    Practical Information

    Getting Here

    The closest tram stop to the museum is Kontraskjæret, which is where tram line 12 stops.

    You do have to walk into the fortress complex to access the museum, and there is some uphill walking involved to get there. It takes up to 15 minutes to get to the museum from the tram stop.

    Taxis can’t drive you up to the museum. 

    The museum is well-signed once you enter the fortress. 

    Prices

    Up-to-date prices can be found on the museum website:  https://kultur.forsvaret.no/museer/norges-hjemmefrontmuseum

    There are good discounts for seniors and groups with more than 10 people. 

    Opening Hours

    Up-to-date opening hours can be found on the museum website: https://kultur.forsvaret.no/museer/norges-hjemmefrontmuseum

    In summer, they are open daily from 10am – 5pm. In winter, the opening hours are shorter. 

    Time in the Museum

    Depending on how much you want to read, allow between 45 and 90 minutes inside the museum. It’s not a large museum, but there are many interesting things to look at!

    Museum Shop

    I love a good museum shop, and this one is up there. Of course, they only really sell books about the war. Still, the selection of books in English is fantastic. There’s also a good section of books in Norwegian and other languages as well.

    Oslo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Oslo, including practical information and things to do. 

  • Tromsø, Where to Stay

    Where to Stay in Tromsø, from a Tour Leader’s Perspective

    Where to Stay in Tromsø from a Tour Leader's Perspective

    Tromsø is an incredible Arctic city and in the last decade or so has become a very popular place to stay. It is completely understandable, too. In winter, you get northern lights and fun winter activities like husky safaris, whale safaris, and skiing. In summer, there are amazing hikes and places to go cycling. The increasing number of visitors in Tromsø has led a boom in the construction of hotels, and now there is plenty of choice for travellers with all budgets. 

    I’ve put together this guide for the best places to stay in Tromsø based on my experience going there for work as a tour leader but also the times I’ve been there for my work on this website. I’ve stayed in a few different places in a few different regions of Tromsø, so hope this guide can provide some help!

    Tip: Book the hotel as far in advance as possible. Good hotels sell out months in advance and up to a year in advance if during the northern lights season, so you don’t want to miss out on a good price and good hotel. 

    Affiliate links: None of the hotels recommended here are paid placements or have sponsored this article in any way. This guide comes from my years of experience travelling to Tromsø for work and holiday, and I’m simply choosing the hotels I believe to be the best choice. That said, if you book through the link provided here, I get a small commission at no extra cost to you, and that money contributes to this website. I appreciate any support I can get 🙂

    Price Range:

    Budget: Less than 1500 NOK a night
    Mid-range: 1500 – 2600 NOK a night
    High end: 2600 NOK a night

    I looked at one night in March in the following year from when I wrote this article to get my price list.

    In this article...

    Tromsø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Map of Tromsø

    Tromsø City Centre (Tromsøya Island)

    Why Stay Here?

    If you are coming into Tromsø without a car, plan on booking lots of excursions, or just want to be close to everything, the city centre is the place for you. This guide includes all the hotels on the island of Tromsøya, which is the island where Tromsø city and the airport are located. However, convenience comes at a price and it is here that you’ll find Tromsø’s most expensive hotels. 

    High End

    Clarion Hotel The Edge

    Clarion Hotel The Edge is one of the most popular hotels in Tromsø, but it comes at a price. The location is perfect – directly opposite the Hurtigruten terminal – and the hotel even has a skybar on the top level. Most shops and popular restaurants are within a five minute walk of The Edge. I have stayed here a couple times and found the location to be perfect. The rooms are high end and the lobby and restaurant area is fantastic. One time I was there, the hotel was hosting a comedy show in the theatre that night! 

    Check Availability & Prices

    TA Vervet

    TA Vervet (Total Apartments Vervet) is a high-end apart-hotel located in the hip neighbourhood of Vervet. The apartments are beautifully designed and have views either of a garden or out to the sea. All apartments have a fully equipped kitchen, a private bathroom, a living room, and separate bedrooms. They all have a balcony. There is a rooftop terrace on top of the building and private parking is available in a garage in the basement, which is great if you are renting a car.

    You need to stay at least two nights here and prices are very high, but if you’re travelling as a group of four or more and want to stay together, this is a great option. The hotel is close to the Polar Museum and the bus across to the Arctic Cathedral. It’s about a 10-15 minute walk to the main street but is in a nice quiet area. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Enter Elisabeth Suites & Spa

    This is one of Tromsø’s newest hotels and is located around a ten-minute walk south of the main centre of Tromsø. Much like TA, this is an apartment hotel. The apartments have a fully equipped kitchen, dining area, separate bedrooms, and private bathrooms. Some rooms come with a laundry. The hotel also serves breakfast (costs extra) and has a fitness room and terrace. There is even a spa located in the hotel and it has a heated pool. Private parking is available.  

    Check Availability & Prices

    Tip: TA Vervet & Enter Elisabeth are some of Tromsø’s newest hotels. TA Vervet is in a brand-new neighbourhood called Vervet, which is quickly becoming Tromsø’s hipster neighbourhood. 

    Mid Range

    Most hotels in Tromsø city centre seem to be priced the same – around 1700 NOK a night – so your pick really comes down to personal preference.

    Scandic Ishavshotel

    Scandic is a mid-range Scandinavian chain of hotels, and while their rooms often just look like IKEA catalogues, the hotels are clean, modern, practical, and often in excellent locations. The Scandic Ishavshotel had a major renovation a few years back, so the hotel feels fresh. The breakfast has won “Best Breakfast in Norway” several times.

    Across from the hotel is the major pickup place for many of the sightseeing tours in Tromsø, especially the northern lights tours.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Tip: Scandic is opening a new hotel in Tromsø’s hip neighbourhood Vervet in 2025. This will be the largest hotel in Northern Norway and is called Scandic Vervet. Keep an eye out for that one!

    Clarion Collection Hotel With

    Clarion Hotel With is also located by the harbour with a lovely view out to the Arctic Cathedral, Tromsø Bridge, and Fjellheisen cable car. Clarion chain hotels include a free light evening dinner, which can be a huge plus. The hotel even does free coffee/tea and Norwegian waffles in the afternoon. The hotel is often ranked at the top of TripAdvisor.

    I stayed here on my last visit to Tromsø a couple months ago and really liked the location – a block off the main street by the waterfront. However, the rooms had some very questionable art on the roof above the bed! See below – the group and I had a good laugh about this one. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Clarion Hotel Aurora

    Located across the street from Hotel With, Clarion Aurora is slightly cheaper despite being a newer hotel with a just as equal location, view, and meal offerings. It is also one of the few hotels with onsite parking. This hotel even has a rooftop jacuzzi and sauna!

    Check Availability & Prices

    Radisson Blu Hotel

    The Radisson Blu is a huge hotel in the centre of everything. This is where almost all of the excursions begin, which can be great if you have booked many activities, but if you are just staying at the hotel it can be annoying pushing past masses of crowds every time you enter and leave the hotel.

    Inside the hotel is a booking desk for excursions, and the hotel runs its own popular pizza place. It also has one of Norway’s most famous pubs, Rorbua, which has live music from Wednesday to Saturday.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Thon Hotel Tromsø/Thon Hotel Polar

    I’ve included both the Thon hotels under the same listing just because they are a chain hotel and therefore more or less similar in style and price. Even the location is comically similar as they are across the street from each other! Some websites categorise this as a budget hotel, which it certainly isn’t. Thon Hotels have nice, clean rooms and good hotel breakfasts!

    Check Availability & Prices (Thon Hotel Polar)

    Check Availability & Prices (Thon Hotel Tromsø)

    Moxy Hotel

    The Moxy Hotel isn’t perfectly located – it’s out near the airport and it takes around 10 minutes to drive into Tromsø – but it is within walking distance of Tromsø’s largest shopping mall. However, the hotel has one of the best views out to Tromsø. The rooms all come with wonderful views too and are modern in their design. The hotel also has a parking lot, which is convenient if you are renting a car.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Enter Backpack Hotel

    Enter Backpack Hotel is one of the most budget options I could find. The rooms with shared bathrooms fit into the budget category. Rooms with a private bathroom are only 200 NOK more expensive, so that may be worth it. The hotel is located a couple blocks west of the main shopping area.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Smarthotel Tromsø

    Smarthotel is one of the best value budget hotels in Tromsø. Double rooms with private bathrooms are some of the cheapest I found in the city. The hotel is only located two blocks from the main shopping street, so it is a great choice if you want to stay close to the city centre but save some money.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Comfort Xpress Tromsø

    Comfort Hotel is a popular chain in Norway and can be a good option too. The main shopping street is close by and all the rooms have private bathrooms. The rooms are very basic – think your minimalist IKEA bedroom – but they are functional and have everything that you need. There is a catch on the low price – there is no daily housekeeping service, rather they clean the rooms every fourth day. You can pay extra if you want your room cleaned daily. There is also a laundry room here that you can use.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Tromsø Coco Apartments

    This is one of the cheapest places to stay in Tromsø. The adults-only accommodation has a shared lounge and garden. All rooms have a shared bathroom, too. However, for a bunk bed in a dormitory you only pay 400 NOK a night. The accommodation is highly rated online, so it’s an excellent budget option.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Kvaløya Island

    Why Stay Here?

    Kvaløya is the name of the island located to the west of Tromsø city centre. It takes about 15 minutes to drive from the island to downtown Tromsø, but there are good public transport connections. I have stayed here once – at a cabin – and chose it because we wanted to be away from city lights and try to spot the northern lights. Kvaløya is also where many northern lights tours drive to, so it made it easier for us to go searching for the lights at night.

    Kvaløya also has some of the best mountains in Tromsø for hiking.

    Pictured above is the view from the cabin we booked on the island in October 2021. 

    High End

    Vengsøy Rorbuer

    These beautiful fishermen’s cabins are located about 30 minutes out of Tromsø but offer incredible views and perfect northern lights spotting. All cabins have free parking, a terrace with views to the sea, a full kitchen, private bathroom and living area. You need to stay at least two nights here.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Yggdrasil Farmhotel Retreat, Spa and Yoga

    Yggdrasil Farmhotel Retreat, Spa and Yoga is a beautiful property located out in the countryside. Because you are moving further away from the city, you get more value for money. A hotel of this quality would be twice the price if in Tromsø centre. Suites for one night are only 1,800 NOK, which is a bargain for what you get. The cozy cabin rooms have private bathrooms, a kitchen, a lounge area and views over the fjord.

    As this is a farm, you can help feed the farm animals or just say hello to them. The most expensive rooms – the deluxe suites – are only 3,000 NOK for one night. Again, it would be twice the cost if staying in Tromsø centre. You will need a car to get here, though.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mainland (Tromsdalen/E8 Highway)

    Why Stay Here?

    Tromsdalen is on the mainland and is where the E8 highway connects Tromsø to the rest of the country. There are plenty of public transport options over to the island and Tromsø city centre, so this can be a good option if you want to save some money. Tromsdalen is where the iconic Arctic Cathedral is located, as well as the cable car Fjellheisen.

    High End

    Æra Glass Cabins

    This is one of the most unique places to stay in Tromsø. Here you can stay in one of the popular glass cabins that are great for northern lights spotting. The cabins are located about 30 minutes out of Tromsø by car but are a great option if you’re here for the lights.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Tromsø Arctic Villa

    The Tromsø Arctic Villa is a beautiful historic house close to the Arctic Cathedral. There’s a fantastic view of Tromsø from here, and the villa is surrounded by a lovely garden. You can choose between a three-bedroom apartment or a one-bedroom apartment, but both options come with a kitchen, private bathroom, and living room. Free parking is available on site. You must stay for a minimum of two nights.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Tromsø Camping

    Tromsø Camping is good value. They have charming cabins that come with either shared or private bathrooms, and some even come with a kitchen. There is free parking on the property and you get access to the sauna and the bar. When booking, you have to stay for a minimum of two nights. The ‘Economy cottages’ are the budget-friendly options (though very modern inside!), while the other cabins are definitely high-end priced but absolutely beautiful. It’s a great option if you are coming to see the northern lights but may not be able to afford all the pricey excursions. Since this place is out of the city centre, there’s less light pollution.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Are there Airbnbs?

    There are Airbnbs, but please don’t consider booking one. At the moment there is a housing crisis in Tromsø and it is hard for young people to get into the housing market as apartments and homes are being bought up by greedy landlords to sell on Airbnb.

    If you want an apartment, consider one of the Aparthotels mentioned in this guide. You can get much nicer quality hotels and apartments and don’t need to stay at an Airbnb. 

    Final Thoughts on Where to Stay in Tromsø

    There are so many options on where to stay in Tromsø, and it can be overwhelming. It’s important to remember your budget and then decide if you want to rent a car or not. From there, you can narrow down how close to Tromsø city you want to stay. 

    Tromsø Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out my Tromsø travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the capital of the Arctic. 

  • Svalbard, Where to Stay

    Where to Stay in Longyearbyen, from a Tour Leader’s Perspective

    Where to Stay in Longyearbyen from a Tour Leader's Perspective

    Longyearbyen has understandably transformed into this incredible tourist destination. Thanks to modern means of travel, it is now possible to go to a place that was once inhospitable. Us visitors no longer have to rough it like the explorers did just over 100 years ago; today accommodation choices make you feel like you’re in Oslo or Bergen. They are modern, trendy, but still maintain a cozy feel that highlights the incredible natural surroundings.

    I’ve been to Longyearbyen a few times both for work as a tour leader but also as a tourist. At first the hotels felt overwhelming, but after getting my bearings in Longyearbyen, I can see the variations of choice available.

    There is no such thing as budget travel to Svalbard, which I actually believe is a good thing as it prevents mass tourism. Still, there are ways to keep to a budget when travelling to Longyearbyen, and as you’ll see in this guide, one of the ways is by choosing the right place to stay. 

    I’ve put together this comprehensive but to-the-point guide for where to stay in Longyearbyen based on your preference. 

    Tip: The most popular hotels sell out months in advance, so it’s important to plan well ahead of time. For this guide I looked at hotels 10 months in the future (March 2025) and already some hotels were sold out. 

    Tip: No matter where you stay, the excursions you book will pick you up from your hotel. 

    Tip: The airport bus doesn’t stop at every hotel, but it stops close enough to many of them. 

    Price guide:

    • Budget friendly: 1500 NOK a night or less (marked green on the map)
    • Mid-range: 1500 NOK – 3000 NOK a night (marked blue on the map)
    • High end: 3000 NOK+ a night (marked red on the map)

    Affiliate Links:

    None of the hotels recommended here are paid placements or have sponsored this article in any way. I wrote this guide after visiting all the hotels when I went to Longyearbyen in March 2024. That said, if you book through the link provided here, I get a small commission at no extra cost to you, and that money contributes to this website. I appreciate the support!

    In this article...

    Longyearbyen Travel Guide
    Svalbard Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out my Svalbard travel guide, which includes practical information about travelling there but also information about the various settlements and wildlife. 

    Map of Svalbard

    Here is my overall map of Svalbard. The hotels are coloured according to their price (green = budget friendly, blue = mid-range, pink = high-end).

    Longyearbyen Centre

    Why Stay Here?

    Yes, there is such a thing as a city centre in Longyearbyen. This is the perfect spot to stay if you don’t want to be more than a 10 minute walk from the shops and restaurants. This is especially perfect in the winter months, where the temperatures of -20C don’t exactly make it appealing to walk to the way into the city. 

    However, the convenient location does mean prices are a little higher. 

    High End

    Svalbard Hotell the Lodge

    Svalbard Hotell the Lodge is expensive (prices for March 2025 for two people/two nights was 15000NOK!) but there’s a reason for it. The Lodge isn’t a traditional hotel; in fact it’s self-serviced apartments! Meals aren’t included here (you can add breakfast for an additional fee) but what you get instead is a full apartment with your own kitchen. This can be a way on cutting down costs if you don’t want to go out every night. To be honest, I’m not sure the high price justifies it. Also, on their website they say this:

    “Some of the apartments are subjected to noise from the pub on the first floor, especially during the weekends”

    So, I’m not sure it’s worth the price tag. Still, it comes down to personal preference. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Radisson Blu Polar Hotel

    This is where I stayed on my most recent visit, and I absolutely loved it! I know online it has a reputation for being the ‘tourist hotel’, but I was travelling as a tourist. Some excursions only start from one spot (so you have to make your own way there), and more often than not that one spot was the Radisson Blu. The airport bus to the airport also leaves from right outside here. It took me 5 mins to walk to the shops, 5 mins to the museum, and 15 mins to the old town. It was perfectly located.

    This hotel was the first hotel that was built in Longyearbyen. It opened in 1995 and the buildings are from the Lillehammer Winter Olympics 1994. 

    There are a couple restaurants located inside and the included breakfast is perfection. The rooms are big and I got a spectacular view of the mountains from my room. 

    I also want to add that the staff were some of the nicest I’ve encountered, and there’s a fantastic shop in the lobby. 

    This hotel is borderline high-end, with prices hovering between 2,500 and 3,000 NOK a night. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Basecamp Hotel

    I’ll admit, when I saw this hotel I kind of wished I had booked it instead. If you are trying to go for a more rustic Svalbard vibe, this hotel is a great option. Basecamp Hotel is designed to look like one of the historic cabins where hunters would stay. The recycled interiors are inspired by Arctic trapper’s huts. 

    Breakfast is included and the wonderful Kroa restaurant is part of the complex. The hotel also organises their own excursions.

    This hotel is practically across the street from all the shops. 

    This hotel is mid-range with prices starting at 2,300 NOK per night, but it can easily go into the high-end category if you want a larger-than-standard room. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Tip: If travelling in the summer months, be sure to pack a sleep mask. Not all hotels have black-out curtains, or curtains that work efficiently, so it’s important to bring one to get some sleep!

    Svalbard Hotell Polfareren or the Vault

    Please note that these are two different hotels under the one chain. Svalbard Hotel Polfareren is located on the main street, while the Vault is located a couple blocks away. However, I’ve included them under one because they are priced similarly. 

    Svalbard Hotel Polfareren is a boutique hotel taking inspiration from Svalbard’s distinctive character. The Norwegian explorer Eivind Astrup (1871-1895) was the inspiration for the hotel. He was Norway’s youngest recipient of the Order of St. Olav, so keywords such as rustic, timeless and robust are the reasons for the hotels design. The restaurant Polfareren is inspired by Nordic cuisine and changes with the season.

    Svalbard Hotel The Vault is a little more functional (rather than stylish) and takes inspiration from the Svalbard Global Seed Vault. The restaurant located here is Nuga, a Japanese restaurant.

    Honestly, I can’t see a huge difference between the two! I guess it comes down to price and location.

    Check Availability & Prices (Polfareren)

    Check Availability & Prices (The Vault)

    Longyearbyen City Outskirts

    Why Stay Here?

    If nature is why you’re here, there are a number of excellent choices in the ‘suburbs’ of Longyearbyen. The prices vary a lot, from luxury accommodation to budget friendly travel.

    Keep in mine that it takes at least 20 minutes to walk to where the shops and restaurants are, so there will be a bit of back and forth. There’s no public transportation in Longyearbyen, but there are taxis. 

    High End

    Funken Lodge

    Funken Lodge is the most expensive place to stay in Longyearbyen. Rooms are large and modern and there’s a French restaurant in the property. The hotel has more amenities than other hotels in Svalbard, including a luxury gym and champagne bar. 

    It is a 10-15 minute walk into Longyearbyen from Funken Lodge. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Mary-Anns Polarigg

    This is another contender for ‘places I wish I stayed at’. Mary’Anns is a quirky hotel located inside wooden miners barracks. The prices here vary a lot (which is why I marked it as mid-range), as there are cheaper rooms with shared bathrooms but also suites. But you don’t come for the rooms – it’s the shared areas that are everything. The mining-themed interior has reading nooks, a bar, an excellent restaurant, and laundry services. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Coal Miners Cabins

    If you are looking for good quality budget accommodation, the Coal Miners Cabins are a great choice. Almost all of the rooms have a shared bathroom, but there a few where you can pay more for a private bathroom (though that will go into the mid-range category).

    The building is a former miners barracks in the neighbourhood of Nybyen, about 20 minutes on foot from the main shopping street.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Gjestehuset 102

    Gjestehuset 102 is another excellent budget accommodation choice. All the rooms have a shared bathroom, and that is one of the reasons for the lower price. The hotel, like Coal Miners Cabins, is located in the neighbourhood of Nybyen and about 20 minutes walk from the main shopping street. Gjestehuset 102 offers mixed 4-person dormitories as well as single and twin rooms. Breakfast is included. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Haugen Pensjonat

    Haugen Pensjonat is located closed to the city than the other two options, but still has affordable prices. The hotel is primarily self-catering, with no reception. There are different types of rooms plus apartments, and bathrooms are shared between 2-3 rooms each. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Out of Longyearbyen

    Why Stay Here?

    You’ve come for the adventure! You want to be out of civilisation and experience the raw nature of Svalbard. I completely get it. 

    Due to the various environmental rules and regulations on Svalbard, plus the risk of polar bears, choices for outside Longyearbyen are limited to the campground, which for some may not be what you’re after. 

    Budget Friendly

    Longyearbyen Camping

    Longyearbyen Camping is the cheapest accommodation on offer in Svalbard. The campsite is located next to the airport, meaning that you can’t simply walk into the city centre (the airport is outside the city limits). Camping gear is available for rent and to protect the campers from polar bears, there is an electric fence and guard dogs.   

    Check Availability & Prices

    Are there Airbnbs?

    Yes! Since many of the locals work in tourism and may be gone for long stretches of time, they put their apartments up on Airbnb.

    The apartments come with kitchens and bathrooms, and the prices vary from budget-friendly to high end. 

    Click here to view a cabin for rent on a husky farm out of town. 

    Final Thoughts on Where to Stay in Longyearbyen

    Longyearbyen is undoubtedly becoming a huge tourist town, and because of this you’ll always have lots of choice for where to stay. 

    Just be sure to book early since places are extremely limited and do sell out! The hotel should be one of the first places you book for the trip (after flights!). 

    Longyearbyen Travel Guide
    Svalbard Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out my Svalbard travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the archipelago. 

  • Svalbard

    How to get from Svalbard Airport (LYR) into Longyearbyen

    How to get from Svalbard Airport to Longyearbyen

    Svalbard, a Norwegian archipelago located in the Arctic Ocean, is a unique destination known for its stunning landscapes and wildlife. If you’re arriving at Svalbard Airport Longyear (LYR), getting from the airport to the main town, Longyearbyen, is relatively straightforward despite its remote location. I’ll admit, when I was preparing for my trip back in March I got so confused on how it all works. I ended up having to contact my hotel asking for help. Now that I’ve done it, I can’t believe how straightforward it is. How do you get from Svalbard Airport to Longyearbyen?

    So, I’ve written this guide to help you out. I’ve tried to keep it as to-the-point as possible so you find the journey easy. Here’s my guide to help you navigate the journey from Svalbard Airport to Longyearbyen. 

    How to get from Svalbard Airport to Longyearbyen

    Svalbard Travel Guide

    Modes of Transport

    Airport Bus

    This is the most popular way to get to the city from the airport. There is an airport bus (Flybussen in Norwegian) that goes from the airport to most of the hotels in Longyearbyen.

    A one-way ticket is 100 NOK for adults, while an adult roundtrip ticket is 170 NOK. There are small discounts for students and children.

    The bus doesn’t stop at every hotel. However, Longyearbyen is small enough that it’s easy to walk to your hotel even if it isn’t listed below. Just choose the hotel closest to yours. Click the button below to see the route they take. 

    Airport Bus Route

    Taxi

    There is a taxi company in Longyearbyen and they operate 24/7. If you are staying somewhere unique, need to get to town quickly, or just want a more high-end experience in Longyearbyen, it is possible to get a taxi from the airport to the city.

    There is a taxi rank outside the airport, but no guarantee there will be taxis there. It’s best to call in advance and reserve a taxi.

    The cost for a taxi is approximately 200 NOK. Be prepared to pay with bank card.

    • Longyearbyen Taxi, phone (+47) 79 02 13 75
    Svalbard Buss and Taxi, phone (+47) 79 02 13 05

    Getting to Longyearbyen

    There is no schedule for the bus online! Rather, the bus is timed with the flights. When I landed in March, there were two buses. Tell the driver the name of your hotel, and they’ll point you to which of the two buses is going there.

    Since Longyearbyen is small, keep in mind they may announce one hotel and your hotel is right next door, so be aware of what’s around your hotel. They don’t stop at every hotel based on requests.

    Airport Bus Route

    You drop off your bag and sit on the bus. Once everyone has boarded, the driver comes around with a card machine and you pay for the ticket. You can buy a roundtrip ticket or one-way ticket. If you purchase a roundtrip ticket, you’ll get a printed copy. When taking the bus back to the airport, show the ticket to the driver.

    The buses wait until 40 minutes after the flights arrival, or when the luggage belt is empty.

    Once the bus (finally) leaves, it takes only 10-15 minutes to get to your hotel. 

    Getting to the Airport

    Inside your hotel will be a schedule for when the bus comes past. I stayed at the Radisson Blu and they had a clear timetable and a bus stop located outside the hotel on the road. The bus was punctual, thankfully – it was -20C outside when I was waiting!

    The Radisson Blu was the last stop before going to the airport.

    Because flights come in at different times every day, the airport bus schedule is not regular and you need to check the most up-to-date schedule. You can find the updated schedule on the Svalbard Buss og Taxi website below. 

    City to Airport Schedule

    The schedule varies every day depending on the flight, so please check with your hotel or online for when the bus will be heading to the airport.

    At the Airport

    Once you’re at the airport, it’s a fairly quick and straightforward process. There are self-service ticket machines or a manned counter, and you go through security as you would in any Norwegian airport. There’s only one gate (see picture above) so you can’t get lost!

    From the Airport to Longyearbyen

    Hopefully this guide has cleared up how easy it is to get from the airport into Longyearbyen and then back again.

    If you have any questions, please ask in the comment section below!

    Svalbard Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Svalbard, including all the settlements and itineraries for different times of the year.