Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • The History of Stockholm (Summarised)

    The History of Stockholm (Summarised)

    Stockholm is such a cool city. I’d argue that it is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Thankfully, Sweden was neutral during World War II and therefore the old town of Stockholm remains as one of the best-preserved in all of Europe. But besides maintaining its original look and charm, Stockholm has had a turbulent history affected by unions, wars and plenty of murders. I don’t think any other Nordic capital has so many stories of bloodbaths and murders! Up until very recently, Stockholm was an overcrowded and poor place to live. Now, it has transformed itself into a Green Capital and modern city.

    Here’s my summarised version of the history of Stockholm, focusing on places you can see today. 

    The History of Stockholm

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Stockholm, including practical information and things to do. 

    Stockholm During the Viking Age

    Not much is known about Stockholm before the city was officially founded, and even that is contested. However, what is known is that the oldest settlement on Lake Mälaren is Birka, about 30 kilometres west of Stockholm. Birka was founded in the 8th century and was a major Viking town. Today Birka is on the UNESCO World Heritage List and is a popular day-trip from Stockholm (It is on my to-do list so I can film it!).

    After Birka was abandoned around 975AD, Sigtuna emerged as the Viking capital of Sweden and was also an important missionary outpost and regarded as where Christianity came to Sweden. Again, visiting here is on my to-do list. 

    But what about Stockholm? It’s not exactly known if people were living here then. The water level of the lake was about five metres higher than it is today. However, the area around Stockholm had settlements and items from the Viking Age, including a sword, have been found around Stockholm. 

    Stockholm is Officially Founded

    According to the Chronicles of Saint Eric, written in the 1320s, Stockholm was founded by Birger Jarl in 1253 as a lock to Lake Mälaren to prevent pirates from reaching the cities around it. The first fortress was built roughly where Stockholm palace is today and was a castle called the Tre Kronor (Three Crowns/Three Kingdoms). 

    What’s the oldest building in Stockholm? Many claim that it’s Birger Jarl’s tower, located on Riddarholmen Island, but it’s not – it was built as a defence tower in the 1530s. What’s considered to be the oldest building is Riddarholmen Church. Parts of the church are from the 1280s and the church was constructed as a burial church for the royals. Storkyrkan, the main church next to the palace, has remains from the 13th century and was a coronation church. 

    Riddarholmen Church

    Riddarholmen Church is regarded as the oldest building in Stockholm and was where the royals and many prominent citizens were buried. It is today a museum and well-worth a visit!

    What Does Stockholm Mean?

    The name ‘Stockholm’ is made up of two distinct parts – ‘Stock’ means ‘log’, while ‘Holm’ means ‘islet’. According to a 17th century myth, the population of Birka wanted to found a new settlement, so they floated a log down the lake. It landed on Riddarholmen, where the Tower of Birger Jarl stands. 

    Stockholm, the Important Trading Port

    Shortly after its founding, Stockholm became an important trading port. King Birger Jarl made an agreement with the German Hanseatic League, where he invited them to settle in Stockholm and promised them generous privileges. It was, however, King Magnus Ladulås (1275-1290) who strengthened the relationship with the Hanseatic League. 

    Stockholm transformed into the central port for all trade on the Gulf of Bothnia. The streets around Gamla Stan were divided into neighbourhoods for different craftsmen and interest groups. Craftsmen lived on Köpmangatan (literally “Merchant Street”), and shoemakers lived on Skomakargatan. Both of those streets are the oldest streets in Stockholm – from 1323 and 1337 respectively. Those working with iron and metals lived on Järntorget (Iron Square). Stortorget (Main Square) became the centre of trade for Gamla Stan. 

    Stockholm imported salt, spices, beer, wine, clothing, and luxury goods such as silk, weapons of armours. Exports were iron and copper, local hides, dried fish, butter, and fires.

    Kalmar Union

    In 1380, the three Scandinavian countries entered into a union called the Kalmar Union. How it happened is complicated and is worthy of its own separate article (writing that down for the future!). However, Sweden and Denmark did not get along. Having control of Stockholm was crucial of controlling the kingdom of the Kalmar Union, and many people in Stockholm were against the union. So, this led to around 150 years of battles, fights and blockades.

    Life in Stockholm during the Kalmar Union was tough. There were a large number of Finns and Germans here and the Germans especially had a very strong position in Stockholm. In the city council half of the members had to be German. The Hanseatic League grew in importance here. Eventually, due to fires, Stockholm starts to get more houses in stone.  

    Fun fact – no other countries have gone to ware against each other as much as Denmark and Sweden. 

    Sten Sture the Elder takes Stockholm in 1471

    After many fights between Denmark and Sweden, Sten Sture the Elder, a Swedish statesman, defeated the Danish King Christian I of Denmark at the Battle of Brunkeberg in 1471. He held Stockholm for only six years before losing the city to Hans of Denmark. Sten managed to get power back in 1501, but this resulted in a Danish blockade lasting 1502-1509. Hans’ son, Christian II of Denmark, continued the ambitions of his father and made failed attempts to conquer the city in 1517 and 15718. He finally got Stockholm and forced Queen Christina Gyllenstierna, who was leading the resistance, to capitulate in 1520. The archbishop Gustav Trolle crowned Christian the King of Sweden. 

    St. George & The Dragon

    One of the most famous statues in Stockholm is that of St. George and the Dragon. The original statue is in Storkyrkan, while there is a copy in Gamla Stan. Sten Sture the Elder is represented as St. George, while the dragon represents Denmark. 

    Stockholm Bloodbath

    The Stockholm Bloodbath is one of the most famous events in Swedish history. After Christian II of Denmark took Stockholm in 1520, he invited all the nobles and burghers to a feast. They had all been against him, so either he was trying to make amends, or something bad was about to happen.

    Considering the title of this section, you probably know where this is going!

    All the attendees of the feast were imprisoned, and a council, headed by Archbishop Trolle, sentenced them to death for being heretics. About 82 people were executed. It’s believed that Christian II also had Sten Sture’s body dug up and burnt, as well as the body as his child. Sten’s widow and many noblemen were taken prisoner in Denmark. 

    Gamla Stan Houses

    It is said that each stone on the iconic red house in Gamla Stan represents one of the victims. 

    Gustav Vasa Takes Stockholm

    Gustav Vasa was a son of one of the victims of the executions. After hearing of the massacre, he gathered support and led a revolt, in which he was able to defeat the Danish forces during the Swedish War of Liberation. This permanently separated Sweden from Denmark. At the time he conquered the city, he noted that every second building was abandoned. 

    When Gustav Vasa became king, he brought in many reforms to break the political power of bishops in Sweden. He also demolished monasteries and built defence facilities. As the Bloodbath had killed many of the city’s prominent citizens, the King was able to appoint magistrates as he wished and therefore controlled the city. He also brought the Reformation to Stockholm. 

    16th Century Growth

    Stockholm’s social and economic importance began to grow quickly. By controlling trade from Stockholm, the king effectively controlled national trade. Lubeck remained the most important trading partner and German influence was more tangible than before, with low German being a common language in Stockholm. In the 1570s, the population was about five times as many as in Uppsala, Sweden’s then second-largest city.

    When Eric XIV, son of Gustav Vasa, was crowned King in 1561, the title became hereditary and the kingdom was now financed by taxes. 

    The Swedish Empire

    The Swedish Empire (1611 – 1718) is a period of history in which Sweden controlled large parts of the Baltic and was viewed as one of the great European powers. In Stockholm, the city grew sixfold and many of its current streets were laid out. 

    At the beginning of the 17th century, Stockholm was still a medieval city with narrow alleyways and simple wooden houses. The Stockholm environment was so shabby that people were embarrassed when foreigners were invited to the city in connection with Gustav II’s funeral in 1634. They were worried that the sight of Stockholm would ruin Sweden’s international authority. So, this is where we see many new brick buildings in European styles being built.

    Speaking of Gustav II (the grandson of Gustav Vasa), he is the one who commissioned the ill-fated Vasa warship in 1624. The ship sunk on its maiden voyage in 1628. 

    Vasa Museum

    The Vasa Ship is one of the most important pieces from Stockholm’s history and you can see the ship at the Vasa Museum. 

    Fires & Reconstruction

    The Castle in 1661

    Throughout the 17th century, Stockholm was modernised. However, this started largely thanks to a number of major fires the city experienced. New boulevard streets were created and the medieval wall was replaced with a row of palaces that became known as Skeppsbron.

    In 1697, the castle was destroyed by fire. It was rebuilt immediately and completed in the 1750s. Builders and architects from France who had recently worked on Versailles were brought in to design the new palace. 

    Stockholm was still largely dependent on trade and ships passing through the city. Stockholm lacked the resources, such as livestock, to support themselves. All goods brought to Stockholm had to pass through one of six custom stations, generating income for the city.

    In the 1630s and 1640s the neighbourhoods of Norrmalm and Södermalm begin to be developed. New wide streets were laid out inspired by the Renaissance, and to make these new streets hundreds of houses and farms were demolished. Considering the size of the city, it was a transformation that was far greater in scope than the transformation that came in the 1950s-1970s, which we’ll get to later. 

    Södermalm

    Södermalm is today one of the hippest neighbourhoods in Stockholm, but it is also one of the few places in the city where you can see historic wooden houses. Follow my walking tour below!

    The Age of Liberty

    Due to several major losses at war, Sweden’s role as a major European power was over, and in the 18th century many disasters happened. 

    Wars and alcohol led to a surplus of women in the city. Stockholm also had an absence of children, caused by the high number of unmarried people and high infant mortality. There was economic segregation in the city.

    The mercantile model developed, with domestic production promoted by lows and import limited to raw materials not available in Sweden. This led to the rise of the Skeppsbro Nobility, the wealthy wholesalers at Skeppsbron in Gamla Stan who made a fortune delivering bar iron to the international market. The Swedish East India Company was important to Stockholm as it led to a rise in shipbuilding yards and exotic products being available. However, with up to 150 men per ship and a single trip to China taking up to 2 years, it made a huge impact on Stockholm and the lack of men in the city. 

    After more fires, building codes were established and wooden buildings were prohibited. We start to see more monumental buildings in this period, such as the Stock Exchange building from the 1770s (now the Nobel Museum).  

    Gustavian Era & Grand Buildings

    Under Gustav III (1772-1809), the Enlightenment came to Stockholm. The King had great interest in the city’s development and created the Gustav Adolf Square and had the Royal Opera inaugurated there. On the king’s initiative, Haga Park, the Academy of Music, the Painting and Sculptor Academy, the Swedish Theatre, the Royal Ballet, the Swedish Academy and the Academy of History and the History of Antiquities were added. 

    The neoclassical Norrbro bridge was completed and led to people beginning to move out of the city. 

    The period ended when King Gustav III was executed at the Royal Opera he created, and King Gustav IV was deposed in 1809 in a coup d’etat, the same year Sweden lost Finland. This meant that Stockholm ceased to be the geographical centre of the Swedish kingdom. 

    The Industrial Era

    Stockholm 1868

    At the turn of the 19th century, most people still lived at Gamla Stan. Norrmalm was still the wealthy part of town and Södermalm was still working class with the outskirks not having water or sewerage systems. The mortality rate in Stockholm was very high, with every third child dying before the age of one. The population was around 71,000. In the 1860s, these neighbourhoods were re-designed with parks and esplanades inspired by the Champs Elysees. 

    In the second half of the 19th century, Stockholm regained its economic role. New industries emerged and Stockholm was transformed into an important trade centre. During the 1850s and 1860s, gas works, sewerage, and running water were introduced. Streets were paved and the railway came to Stockholm with the central station being completed in 1871. 

    Urban development was notable in central Stockholm, where several prominent neo-Renaissance buildings were built. Towards the 1880s, many monumental brick buildings were built, including Gamla Riksarkivet (The National Archives) building. 

    In the 1880s and 1890s, the new district Östermalm emerged, with new luxurious buildings.

    By the end of the century, the population had exploded to 245,000. 

    The Early 20th Century

    During World War I, construction practically stopped. Shortly after the war, Sweden was incredibly overcrowded.

    The Stockholm City Hall was completed in 1923. This is where the annual Nobel Banquet is held. The building became one of Sweden’s foremost buildings from the National Romantic Era. 

    Stockholm City Hall

    Stockholm City Hall is an impressive building to visit and is open for tours all year round. 

    Modernism had its breakthrough in the early 1930s. New houses were built in the Stockholm suburbs and they all came with heating, a private bathroom, flushing toilet, hot and cold water, and a modern kitchen. 

    World War II

    Stockholm was largely unaffected by World War II, making it one of the best-preserved European capitals. 

    Into Modern Times

    In the late 20th century, Stockholm became a modern, technologically advanced, and ethnically diverse city. 

    Between the 150s and 1970s, practically the whole of the neighbourhood Norrmalm was torn down and rebuilt in the functionalist style of architecture. Click here to see an example. It was heavily criticised at the time and maybe many today think the modern buildings are not so nice. However, a big reason for doing this was to build the subway through Stockholm, which opened in 1950. 

    In 1967, all of Stockholm (and Sweden) changed from driving on the left to driving on the right. 

    On 12 February 1986, Swedish Prime Minister Olof Palme was shot dead at the Sveavågen-Tunnelgatan intersection. The investigation became Sweden’s largest and most expensive ever and is not yet solved.

    In 2006, the Stockholm trial begin. It was a trial of introducing a congestion tax for car traffic in the city, together with expanded public transportation. A referendum following the trial led to its permanent status on 1 August 2007. In 2010, Stockholm was the European Capital of the Environment.

    That about wraps up all I had to say about the history of Stockholm. I hope this overview helps you understand the city better when you visit for yourself!

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Stockholm, including practical information and things to do. 

  • The History of Kristiansand – Norway’s Southernmost Major City

    The History of Kristiansand

    The history of Kristiansand is quite fascinating for a city that is considered to be ‘new’ by Norwegian stands. Only founded in the 17th century, Kristiansand was established because of its strategic location on the tip of southern Norway on the Skaggerak strait – the important crossing from the North Sea into the Baltic Sea. However, even though the city is only around 400 years old, traces of settlement show that people have lived here for thousands of years. 

    Here is a summarised history of Kristiansand with a focus on places you can visit when you visit this lovely city. 

    The History of Kristiansand

    The E39 Highway

    Kristiansand is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Kristiansand, including practical information and things to do. 

    Prehistoric Kristiansand

    In recent years, there have been a number of important discoveries showing life in prehistoric Kristiansand. The most important find is the Søgne woman, the oldest human discovery in Norway. She was discovered in 1994 one metre below the surface in the neighbourhood of Søgne. The skeletal parts have been dated to 7910 – 7600 BC. 

    There has also been a discovery of a settlement from the Stone Age at the place Grauthelleren in the neighbourhood of Fidje, located on the south-east coast of Kristansand city centre. It is not possible to visit this site, though. Additional traces of settlement, including a round house and pit, were discovered under cultivated land in the 1970s. Uniquely, round houses are not common in Norway. 

    Oddernes & Settlement in the Middle Ages

    The earliest traces of permanent settlement have been found in the neighbourhood of Oddernes to the north of current-day Kristiansand. Pits, houses and pottery have been found along with evidence of pagan worship.

    The compact burial ground known as Klempegravene på Odderenes (not accessible) is one of southern Norway’s largest burial grounds in pre-Christian times. 

    An important testimony of a larger and organised society over more than 1,000 years is Oddernes Church, built in 1040. Inside the church’s armoury is a large runestone called the Oddernessteinen, which mentions Saint Olav. The fact that the church is built in stone symbolises wealth and status, meaning Oddernes must’ve been an important place. The stone originally stood outside the church but has since been moved inside. 

    Oddernes Church

    Oddernes Church is the oldest building in Kristiansand. The first church to be located here may have been built by Øyvind, the godson of Olav the Holy. The middle part of the church is the oldest part and dates back to the 12th century. The church was expanded after the Reformation. In the churchyard, burial mounds indicate this was an important place back to 400AD, and there used to be a royal farm here.

    It is possible to visit Oddernes Church. The church is located just off the E18 highway at this address: Jegersbergveien 2

    Trade & Shipping Traffic in the 16th Century

    The interest in southern Norway as a trade hub is thanks to the Dutch, who began to compete with the powerful German Hanseatic League in the 16th century. Therefore, the Dutch began trading in Mandal, close to Kristiansand, around 1450. Danish ships arrived around the same time to trade, while ships from Scotland came in 1520. For the Dutch, it was the timber trade that was most of interest, especially oak. 

    Before the Kiel Canal was constructed, the area around Kristiansand was of strategic importance because the naval base could control access to the Danish straits and Baltic Sea. Because of that, the Danes also established a military base here. 

    Establishment of Kristiansand under Christian IV

    The eccentric but heavily influential King Christian IV visited the area around Kristiansand twice – in 1630 and 1635. He saw the flat plain by the sea being used for pastures and envisioned a city with large, wide streets in a grid pattern according to the Renaissance ideals of the time (called kvadraturen). 

    “Christiansand” (original spelling) was founded by King Christian IV on the 5th of July, humbly naming the city after himself. The town got its Renaissance grid plan, and merchants in the county of Agder were ordered to move to the town. In return, they would get trade privileges and ten years of tax exemption. 

    Kristiansand quickly became the southernmost major city in Norway.

    Shortly after its founding, two new fortresses were built: Fredriksholm and Christiansholm. 

    Fra Frederik 5s atlas. Source: Riksarkivet, Oslo, Norway

    Fredriksholm Fortress

    Fredriksholm fortress was completed in 1662 and is named after the Danish King Fredrik III. The fortress closed in 184, though was partly restored in 1874. When Roald Amundsen was setting out on his expedition to the South Pole in 1910, the harbour here was the last stop in Norway before his departure. At the fortress, almost 100 Greenland dogs were waiting to come aboard the ‘Fram’ ship. 

    The remains of the fortress can be seen, but the fortress is out on an island and difficult to get to. 

    Christiansholm Fortress

    Christiansholm Fortress was part of the plan for Kristiansand when Christian IV founded the city. Construction was completed in 1672, though many extensions were made after that. The facilities were mentioned at the same level as Akershus Fortress in Oslo and Bergenhus Fortress in Bergen. The fortress was closed in 1872. Today you can take a ferry to visit and there are regular cultural events held here. 

    As Kristiansand grew, it overtook other Norwegian cities for important things. For example, in 1682 the King moved the episcopal seat from Stavanger to Kristiansand. 

    The town experienced its first major fire in 1734, when 333 houses were destroyed. 

    Shipbuilding emerged as a major industry in Kristiansand throughout the 18th century. 

    Naopoleonic Wars

    The Napoleonic Wars with the accompanying blockade and naval war caused an upswing in trade for Kristiansand, but with the declaration of war from England came years of emergency.

    Denmark-Norway supported France and was therefore exposed to attacks from the British on Danish-Norwegian ship. The British liner HMS Spencer entered the Kristiansandsfjord on the 18th of September 1807 and were fired upon from Christiansholm fortress. The British captured the disused Fredriksholm fortress, which was blown up and destroyed. 

    The story of Terje Vigen is from this time. You can read the poem and some background into the poem by clicking here. 

    French troops were garrisoned in Kristiansand during the Napoleonic Wars, often in private homes. The rented quarters got the nickname Pose Byen (French town) and this neighbourhood still has that name.

    In the early 19th century, Kristiansand was known to be a dangerous and lawless harbour town, but eventually a Pietist revival as a reaction to these conditions came. 

    Posebyen

    Posebyen is the name of the charming neighbourhood in the eastern part of Kristiansand. The neighbourhood has one of the biggest collection of wooden houses in Norway.

    19th Century Growth

    Throughout the 19th century Kristiansand remained an important port of call for goods leaving Norway, and this created massive fortunes in the city.

    In the 1830s, growth in Norwegian shipping was centered on Kristiansand. From the middle of the 19th century, Kristiansand and Arendal advanced to become the world’s leading shipping cities. 

    The ships sailed with timber and lumber ot England, carried grain to Russia, the United States and Canada, and carried cotton to the West Indies. Some even went as emigrant ships to the United States. However, towards the end of the 19th century, both cities held onto sailing ships for too long as steamships began to overtake trade. Because of that, the shipping industry began to dramatically decline. The largest shipping company in Norway in the 1890s was Stray, which had 70 sailing ships and 15 steamships. 

    An important event for the city was the establishment of Eg Sindssygeasyl in 1891, the second central psychiatric institution in Norway after Gaustad. The psychiatric hospital attracted highly trained doctors to the city and was a pioneering institution in Norwegian psychiatry. It also provided many jobs for women.

    The last major fire in Kristiansand happened in 1892, when the southern half of Kvadraturen up to Rådhusgata was destroyed. 

    World War I and the Interwar Period

    During World War I, Kristiansand was a neutral shipping town. The town grew thanks to this economic boost, and banks and trading houses were built.

    However, during the Interwar Period there was a housing shortage after a strong population growth, and unemployment intensified social problems. Kristiansand became a centre for intellectuals. Bauhaus architect Thilo Schoder came here, escaping Hitler’s Germany in 1932. Arnulf Øverland was also a frequent guest of the city. 

    Thilo Schoder

    Thilo Schoder was a famous Bauhaus architect from Germany. He escaped Hitler’s Germany in 1932 to come to Kristiansand. He was arrested by the Nazis in Kristiansand in May 1940 but survived the war by designing barracks for the Nazis. The long blocks of flats in Solbygg (pictured left) are architectural highlights of functionalism in Norway. 

    Arnulf Øverland

    Arnulf Øverland was a Norwegian writer, poet, critic and advocate of the national language. He was the last person in Norway to be prosecuted for blasphemy, in 1933, after giving the lecture “Christianity – the tenth scourge of the land” in Oslo. He was also very critical of Nazism, and in 1936 wrote the poem “You Must Not Sleep”. It ends with: “I thought: Now something is happening. / Our time is over – Europe is burning». A well-known part from the poem reads: “You must not bear so heartily / the injustice that does not affect you!”

    Øverland was one of the Norwegian delegates to the Hague Congress in 1948, which laid the foundations for the European Convention of Human Rights and the Council of Europe.

    World War II

    Kristiansand was attacked on the 9th of April 1940 by the Nazi naval forces. On board were approximately 1,100 landing troops. The fortress on Odderøya fell. German troops occupied the city. The Nazis built coastal fortifications and took over the military bases.

    Postwar Period

    During the reconstruction after the war, Lund was developed with unique houses in the Bauhaus style, designed by Thilo Schoder.

    Lund in Kristiansand

    Lund is a neighbourhood to the east of Kristiansand. Traces of people have been found back to the early Iron Age, through the Viking Age and up to the early Middle Ages in some places. There has been settlement here since the Stone Age. In the Viking Age, there was a nobleman’s farm here. The area has eventually been developed into a neighbourhood and now the University of Agder is located here.

    In the 1980s, the city’s industry and business were down, and only two shipping companies were left in town. In the 1990s the engineering community began to emerge and develop companies for ship and offshore equipment, safety technology and well drilling.

    Kristiansand also became one the country’s leading locations for telephone sales and call centres, with more than 1,000 employees in this industry.

    The E39 Highway

    Kristiansand is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Kristiansand, including practical information and things to do. 

  • The Vasa Museum Stockholm – Scandinavia’s Most Visited Museum

    The Vasa Museum Stockholm

    I always visit the Vasa Museum when I am in Stockholm. Perhaps it’s because every group tour passes through there, but honestly I would go on my own too. During COVID, when I was doing virtual tours, I was even given special permission to do a virtual tour around the museum. Over 500 people tuned in – it was awesome!

    Why do I love the museum? So many reasons. But I think it’s the sheer scale of the Vasa ship that you feel as soon as you step in. The ship is incredibly well-preserved and that alone fascinates me. But the museum is also well-planned and has a number of wonderful things to do.

    Here is my guide for the best way to utilise your time in the Vasa Museum. 

    Vasa Museum Stockholm

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Stockholm, including practical information and things to do. 

    About the Vasa Museum

    The Vasa Museum opened in 1990 and has quickly become the most visited museum in Scandinavia. Inside you’ll see the Vasa ship – the world’s best-preserved 17th century ship and one of the most valuable historic artefacts from the time period in Scandinavia. 

    History of the Vasa Ship

    Vasa is a completely unique historic artefact. The ship was constructed between 1626 and 1628 under the orders of King Gustavus Adolphus as part of the military expansion he initiated in a war with Poland-Lithuania (1621-1629). The ship was richly decorated as a symbol of the king’s ambitions for Sweden and himself, and upon completion she was one of the most-armed vessels in the world. 

    However, there were problems. Big problems!

    Vasa, as beautiful as she was, was just too top heavy. Construction had been rushed and overly ambitious. A single gust of wind was enough to topple her. 

    The Vasa ship sank roughly 1,300 metres (1,400 yards) into her maiden voyage on the 10th of August 1628. Most of the bronze canyons were salvaged, but otherwise the ship sat at the bottom of the Baltic Sea for a little over 300 years.

    Vasa was located in the late 1950s and the ship was salvaged with a fully intact hull in 1961. 98% of the ship is original and is decorated with hundreds of carved sculptures. 

    If you want to learn more about the history of Vasa, the museum website has a fantastic timeline: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/explore/vasa-history/timeline

    Constructing the Museum

    Originally the ship was housed in a temporary structure and she was continuously treated with polyethylene glycol. There was a possibility for visitors to view her, but there were only two levels for people to stand and visibility was limited.

    In 1981, the Swedish government decided that a permanent museum should be constructed. An architectural competition was held, and 284 architects sent in models of their ideas. The winners were Marianne Dahlback and Goran Mansson. 

    The museum was built around a dry dock, and the Vasa was towed into the flooded dry dock under the new building in December 1987. 

    The museum has a large copper roof with stylised masts representing the height of the Vasa when she was fully rigged. 

    The Main Hall & the Exhibitions

    When you enter the museum, you enter into the main hall. The Vasa stands there towering over you, and it is incredible. 

    You have the chance to walk around the ship from the ground level before continuing to the exhibitions. On the ground level is a small model of the Vasa ship too. 

    There are exhibitions on each of the six floors related to the Vasa but also including archaeological finds from the ships. Archaeological finds include two original cannons, various tools and personal items, and objects used on the ship. The displays are interactive and allow you to learn about the ships history and construction. 

    Highlights for me are firstly the exhibition about the statues on the ship and the original paint colours the ship had. Another highlight is the section where they have recreated part of the ships interior to help you understand what life was like on board. 

    Vasa Ship Movie

    It is well worth starting with the movie when you arrive at the museum, as it perfectly encapsulates the history of the Vasa, recovering the ship, and the work they are doing to preserve the ship. After the movie, try to join one of the guided tours before exploring independently. See information below for guided tours. The movie only lasts for 17 minutes so it’s easy to fit in with your visit.

    You can plan your movie screening ahead of time: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/visit/filmen-about-vasa

    How to Plan Your Visit

    How do plan a Vasa visit? First, order your ticket online in advance. After that, find the movie time that suits you and aim to get there maybe 20 minutes before the movie starts. Drop off your bags at the lockers and then head into the movie. 

    After the movie, join a guided tour. When the guided tour ends, wander the various exhibits. Then you can head to the restaurant or shop!

    Practical Information

    Swedish name

    Vasamuseet

    Getting Here

    The Vasa Museum is located on the island Djurgården in the eastern part of Stockholm city centre. The museum is located behind the large brick Nordic Museum. Tram line number 7 goes past the Vasa Museum.

    The Vasa Museum is located close to the ABBA Museum, Skansen open-air museum and the Nordic Museum, so you can spend the full day out on Djurgården. 

    Admission & Prices

    Up-to-date prices can be found on the Vasa Museum website: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/visit/hours–admission

    Note that the prices vary depending on what time of year you visit. 

    Book your tickets in advance! You’ll avoid having to stand in line for a ticket on the day. When booking online, just select the day you are visiting – there’s no exact time you have to book in advance. The tickets are fully refundable.

    When buying online, you can buy combination tickets with other museums close to Vasa. 

    The museum is cash free, so if you are planning on doing some spending be sure to have your card ready. 

    Travelling with Kids

    The museum has a special trail for kids to follow when they are in the museum. They also have a film called the “Vasa Piglet” which is based on a picture book and tells the story of the Vasa ship in a much different way.

    Read more about kids activities here: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/visit/kids–families

    Opening Hours

    Try to go outside of busy times (middle of the day) as in summer it gets packed in there. If you want to avoid crowds, either visit the museum as soon as it opens or an hour or two before closing. During the school year you are likely to run into groups, while during school holidays there are lots of families there.

    In general, the museum is open daily between 10am and 5pm. On Wednesdays, the museum is open untl 8pm.

    You can find up-to-date opening hours on the museum website: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/visit/hours–admission

    Bags

    Large bags are not allowed into the museum. They have lockers in the main hall that you can use for free. 

    Guided Tours

    The guides at Vasa are excellent and highly trained, and joining one of their tours ensures you’ll get to hear the best of the ships story. They have public guided tours throughout the day, or you can opt to book a private tour. I have never been disappointed with a guided tour at Vasa.

    The guided tours are included in the ticket price and English-language tours run more or less every 30 minutes. You can find more information here: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/visit/guided-tours

    Wifi

    The museum has free Wifi

    Wifi

    An audio guide in different languages is available. You can find the audio guide here: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/visit/audioguide

    Accessibility

    The museum is accessible to visitors with disabilities. Lifts are available on all the floors, and wheelchairs can be borrowed at the information desk.
    Read more about accessibility here: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/visit/accessibility

    Restaurant

    The restaurant inside the museum has standard diner food (sandwiches, meatballs, soups) but is quite nice. Children’s portions are available at a reduced price. For traditional Swedish fika (coffee break), there are cakes, buns and cookies. All food is prepared with Swedish ingredients.

    Gluten or lactose free options can be ordered in advance, just contact the restaurant. mail: info@vasamuseetsrestaurang.se

    Museum Shop

    The souvenir shop is excellent. There’s a vast range of books, kits to build your own Vasa, toys, shirts, and even toy rats!

    Enjoy your visit to the Vasa Museum Stockholm!

    Let me know in the comments if you have any questions, or contact me at emma@thehiddennorth.com if you need help planning a trip to Sweden!

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Stockholm, including practical information and things to do. 

  • Visiting the Resistance Museum in Oslo

    The Resistance Museum Oslo - Norway's Most Important WWII Museum

    The Resistance Museum Oslo is one of the main museums about World War II in Norway. The war in Norway is not often talked about on a global scale, but the impact on the country was huge. Norway was the most occupied country in Europe and a large part of the country above the Arctic Circle was destroyed when the Nazis retreated in 1944/45. Because of the heavy occupation on a relatively young country, there was a huge resistance movement that performed various acts of sabotage.

    Whenever I am in Oslo with a group this is one of the museums I recommend. Many of us from outside of Europe haven’t heard about the severe impact of the war on Norway, and this museum is incredibly eye-opening and informative. It’s well presented and provides a good overview of the war. It is especially worth visiting if you are planning on visiting multiple cities in Norway. 

    Here’s my overview of the Resistance Museum in Oslo. 

    Resistance Museum Oslo

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Oslo, including practical information and things to do. 

    Establishment of the Resistance Museum in Oslo

    The museum was founded in 1962 by several key representatives from organisations made up of civilians and military personnel. Originally, it was a private foundation. The museum opened to the public in May 1970 and Crown Prince Harald was in attendance. The opening coincided with the 25th anniversary of Norwegian liberation. The museum was designed by Otto Torgersen, who worked with key personnel representing various branches of the underground forces. In 1995, the museum was handed over to the State by the Ministry of Defence.

    The museums founders wanted to strengthen the collective will to protect national freedom and otherwise contribute to a continued support for Norwegian democratic values. Additionally, it was important to strengthen knowledge about the years of occupation for future generations and research.

    Location & Building

    The museum is housed in a building that forms part of the Akershus Fortress complex. The fortress was used by the Nazis as a prison and torture centre and executions of Norwegians took place in the courtyard by the Resistance Museum. After the war, Quisling was executed by firing squad at the fortress.

    To get here, you have to enter the fortress complex and make your way up the cobblestone path towards the main Akershus Fortress museum. The Resistance Museum is located just before the main museum. The walk is a little steep for some to get here. There is a staircase up to the museum, or you can follow the ramp path up as well.

    Akershus Fortress Self-Guided Walk

    We have a self-guided walk around Akershus Fortress, which includes the Resistance Museum. 

    Exhibitions

    The exhibitions have recreated five years of occupation through pictures, documents, posters, objects, models, original copies of newspapers and recordings. The exhibition begins with the day Norway is invaded on the 9th of April 1940 and ends with the liberation on the 8th of May 1945.

    What I like about the museum is that it doesn’t just focus on one element of the war, even though the name ‘Resistance Museum’ may make it sound like it’s only about the resistance. Rather, it places the war in a wider context, ranging from military aspects to the everyday life of ordinary citizens. I also appreciate the museum isn’t so high tech with iPads and televisions everywhere. Yes, you get some interesting home-made dioramas, but I find it charming. In many ways, it’s an ‘old fashioned’ museum in the best way possible.

    The Resistance Museum celebrates the effort of the Norwegian resistance, highlighting key events like the Vemork power plant sabotage but also telling the story of the everyday acts of resistance. The museum also covers the tragic sides of the war, including the reign of terror of the SS and Gestapo and the prison and concentration camps that were in Norway, along with the deportation of Norwegian Jews.

    There are English translations for most of the items on display, but items like newspapers or posters have not been translated into English.

    Practical Information

    Getting Here

    The closest tram stop to the museum is Kontraskjæret, which is where tram line 12 stops.

    You do have to walk into the fortress complex to access the museum, and there is some uphill walking involved to get there. It takes up to 15 minutes to get to the museum from the tram stop.

    Taxis can’t drive you up to the museum. 

    The museum is well-signed once you enter the fortress. 

    Prices

    Up-to-date prices can be found on the museum website:  https://kultur.forsvaret.no/museer/norges-hjemmefrontmuseum

    There are good discounts for seniors and groups with more than 10 people. 

    Opening Hours

    Up-to-date opening hours can be found on the museum website: https://kultur.forsvaret.no/museer/norges-hjemmefrontmuseum

    In summer, they are open daily from 10am – 5pm. In winter, the opening hours are shorter. 

    Time in the Museum

    Depending on how much you want to read, allow between 45 and 90 minutes inside the museum. It’s not a large museum, but there are many interesting things to look at!

    Museum Shop

    I love a good museum shop, and this one is up there. Of course, they only really sell books about the war. Still, the selection of books in English is fantastic. There’s also a good section of books in Norwegian and other languages as well.

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Oslo, including practical information and things to do. 

  • Where to Stay in Tromsø, from a Tour Leader’s Perspective

    Where to Stay in Tromsø from a Tour Leader's Perspective

    Tromsø is an incredible Arctic city and in the last decade or so has become a very popular place to stay. It is completely understandable, too. In winter, you get northern lights and fun winter activities like husky safaris, whale safaris, and skiing. In summer, there are amazing hikes and places to go cycling. The increasing number of visitors in Tromsø has led a boom in the construction of hotels, and now there is plenty of choice for travellers with all budgets. 

    I’ve put together this guide for the best places to stay in Tromsø based on my experience going there for work as a tour leader but also the times I’ve been there for my work on this website. I’ve stayed in a few different places in a few different regions of Tromsø, so hope this guide can provide some help!

    Tip: Book the hotel as far in advance as possible. Good hotels sell out months in advance and up to a year in advance if during the northern lights season, so you don’t want to miss out on a good price and good hotel. 

    Affiliate links: None of the hotels recommended here are paid placements or have sponsored this article in any way. This guide comes from my years of experience travelling to Tromsø for work and holiday, and I’m simply choosing the hotels I believe to be the best choice. That said, if you book through the link provided here, I get a small commission at no extra cost to you, and that money contributes to this website. I appreciate any support I can get 🙂

    Price Range:

    Budget: Less than 1500 NOK a night
    Mid-range: 1500 – 2600 NOK a night
    High end: 2600 NOK a night

    I looked at one night in March in the following year from when I wrote this article to get my price list.

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Map of Tromsø

    Tromsø City Centre (Tromsøya Island)

    Why Stay Here?

    If you are coming into Tromsø without a car, plan on booking lots of excursions, or just want to be close to everything, the city centre is the place for you. This guide includes all the hotels on the island of Tromsøya, which is the island where Tromsø city and the airport are located. However, convenience comes at a price and it is here that you’ll find Tromsø’s most expensive hotels. 

    High End

    Clarion Hotel The Edge

    Clarion Hotel The Edge is one of the most popular hotels in Tromsø, but it comes at a price. The location is perfect – directly opposite the Hurtigruten terminal – and the hotel even has a skybar on the top level. Most shops and popular restaurants are within a five minute walk of The Edge. I have stayed here a couple times and found the location to be perfect. The rooms are high end and the lobby and restaurant area is fantastic. One time I was there, the hotel was hosting a comedy show in the theatre that night! 

    Check Availability & Prices

    TA Vervet

    TA Vervet (Total Apartments Vervet) is a high-end apart-hotel located in the hip neighbourhood of Vervet. The apartments are beautifully designed and have views either of a garden or out to the sea. All apartments have a fully equipped kitchen, a private bathroom, a living room, and separate bedrooms. They all have a balcony. There is a rooftop terrace on top of the building and private parking is available in a garage in the basement, which is great if you are renting a car.

    You need to stay at least two nights here and prices are very high, but if you’re travelling as a group of four or more and want to stay together, this is a great option. The hotel is close to the Polar Museum and the bus across to the Arctic Cathedral. It’s about a 10-15 minute walk to the main street but is in a nice quiet area. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Enter Elisabeth Suites & Spa

    This is one of Tromsø’s newest hotels and is located around a ten-minute walk south of the main centre of Tromsø. Much like TA, this is an apartment hotel. The apartments have a fully equipped kitchen, dining area, separate bedrooms, and private bathrooms. Some rooms come with a laundry. The hotel also serves breakfast (costs extra) and has a fitness room and terrace. There is even a spa located in the hotel and it has a heated pool. Private parking is available.  

    Check Availability & Prices

    Tip: TA Vervet & Enter Elisabeth are some of Tromsø’s newest hotels. TA Vervet is in a brand-new neighbourhood called Vervet, which is quickly becoming Tromsø’s hipster neighbourhood. 

    Mid Range

    Most hotels in Tromsø city centre seem to be priced the same – around 1700 NOK a night – so your pick really comes down to personal preference.

    Scandic Ishavshotel

    Scandic is a mid-range Scandinavian chain of hotels, and while their rooms often just look like IKEA catalogues, the hotels are clean, modern, practical, and often in excellent locations. The Scandic Ishavshotel had a major renovation a few years back, so the hotel feels fresh. The breakfast has won “Best Breakfast in Norway” several times.

    Across from the hotel is the major pickup place for many of the sightseeing tours in Tromsø, especially the northern lights tours.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Tip: Scandic is opening a new hotel in Tromsø’s hip neighbourhood Vervet in 2025. This will be the largest hotel in Northern Norway and is called Scandic Vervet. Keep an eye out for that one!

    Clarion Collection Hotel With

    Clarion Hotel With is also located by the harbour with a lovely view out to the Arctic Cathedral, Tromsø Bridge, and Fjellheisen cable car. Clarion chain hotels include a free light evening dinner, which can be a huge plus. The hotel even does free coffee/tea and Norwegian waffles in the afternoon. The hotel is often ranked at the top of TripAdvisor.

    I stayed here on my last visit to Tromsø a couple months ago and really liked the location – a block off the main street by the waterfront. However, the rooms had some very questionable art on the roof above the bed! See below – the group and I had a good laugh about this one. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Clarion Hotel Aurora

    Located across the street from Hotel With, Clarion Aurora is slightly cheaper despite being a newer hotel with a just as equal location, view, and meal offerings. It is also one of the few hotels with onsite parking. This hotel even has a rooftop jacuzzi and sauna!

    Check Availability & Prices

    Radisson Blu Hotel

    The Radisson Blu is a huge hotel in the centre of everything. This is where almost all of the excursions begin, which can be great if you have booked many activities, but if you are just staying at the hotel it can be annoying pushing past masses of crowds every time you enter and leave the hotel.

    Inside the hotel is a booking desk for excursions, and the hotel runs its own popular pizza place. It also has one of Norway’s most famous pubs, Rorbua, which has live music from Wednesday to Saturday.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Thon Hotel Tromsø/Thon Hotel Polar

    I’ve included both the Thon hotels under the same listing just because they are a chain hotel and therefore more or less similar in style and price. Even the location is comically similar as they are across the street from each other! Some websites categorise this as a budget hotel, which it certainly isn’t. Thon Hotels have nice, clean rooms and good hotel breakfasts!

    Check Availability & Prices (Thon Hotel Polar)

    Check Availability & Prices (Thon Hotel Tromsø)

    Moxy Hotel

    The Moxy Hotel isn’t perfectly located – it’s out near the airport and it takes around 10 minutes to drive into Tromsø – but it is within walking distance of Tromsø’s largest shopping mall. However, the hotel has one of the best views out to Tromsø. The rooms all come with wonderful views too and are modern in their design. The hotel also has a parking lot, which is convenient if you are renting a car.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Enter Backpack Hotel

    Enter Backpack Hotel is one of the most budget options I could find. The rooms with shared bathrooms fit into the budget category. Rooms with a private bathroom are only 200 NOK more expensive, so that may be worth it. The hotel is located a couple blocks west of the main shopping area.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Smarthotel Tromsø

    Smarthotel is one of the best value budget hotels in Tromsø. Double rooms with private bathrooms are some of the cheapest I found in the city. The hotel is only located two blocks from the main shopping street, so it is a great choice if you want to stay close to the city centre but save some money.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Comfort Xpress Tromsø

    Comfort Hotel is a popular chain in Norway and can be a good option too. The main shopping street is close by and all the rooms have private bathrooms. The rooms are very basic – think your minimalist IKEA bedroom – but they are functional and have everything that you need. There is a catch on the low price – there is no daily housekeeping service, rather they clean the rooms every fourth day. You can pay extra if you want your room cleaned daily. There is also a laundry room here that you can use.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Tromsø Coco Apartments

    This is one of the cheapest places to stay in Tromsø. The adults-only accommodation has a shared lounge and garden. All rooms have a shared bathroom, too. However, for a bunk bed in a dormitory you only pay 400 NOK a night. The accommodation is highly rated online, so it’s an excellent budget option.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Kvaløya Island

    Why Stay Here?

    Kvaløya is the name of the island located to the west of Tromsø city centre. It takes about 15 minutes to drive from the island to downtown Tromsø, but there are good public transport connections. I have stayed here once – at a cabin – and chose it because we wanted to be away from city lights and try to spot the northern lights. Kvaløya is also where many northern lights tours drive to, so it made it easier for us to go searching for the lights at night.

    Kvaløya also has some of the best mountains in Tromsø for hiking.

    Pictured above is the view from the cabin we booked on the island in October 2021. 

    High End

    Vengsøy Rorbuer

    These beautiful fishermen’s cabins are located about 30 minutes out of Tromsø but offer incredible views and perfect northern lights spotting. All cabins have free parking, a terrace with views to the sea, a full kitchen, private bathroom and living area. You need to stay at least two nights here.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Yggdrasil Farmhotel Retreat, Spa and Yoga

    Yggdrasil Farmhotel Retreat, Spa and Yoga is a beautiful property located out in the countryside. Because you are moving further away from the city, you get more value for money. A hotel of this quality would be twice the price if in Tromsø centre. Suites for one night are only 1,800 NOK, which is a bargain for what you get. The cozy cabin rooms have private bathrooms, a kitchen, a lounge area and views over the fjord.

    As this is a farm, you can help feed the farm animals or just say hello to them. The most expensive rooms – the deluxe suites – are only 3,000 NOK for one night. Again, it would be twice the cost if staying in Tromsø centre. You will need a car to get here, though.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mainland (Tromsdalen/E8 Highway)

    Why Stay Here?

    Tromsdalen is on the mainland and is where the E8 highway connects Tromsø to the rest of the country. There are plenty of public transport options over to the island and Tromsø city centre, so this can be a good option if you want to save some money. Tromsdalen is where the iconic Arctic Cathedral is located, as well as the cable car Fjellheisen.

    High End

    Æra Glass Cabins

    This is one of the most unique places to stay in Tromsø. Here you can stay in one of the popular glass cabins that are great for northern lights spotting. The cabins are located about 30 minutes out of Tromsø by car but are a great option if you’re here for the lights.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Tromsø Arctic Villa

    The Tromsø Arctic Villa is a beautiful historic house close to the Arctic Cathedral. There’s a fantastic view of Tromsø from here, and the villa is surrounded by a lovely garden. You can choose between a three-bedroom apartment or a one-bedroom apartment, but both options come with a kitchen, private bathroom, and living room. Free parking is available on site. You must stay for a minimum of two nights.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Tromsø Camping

    Tromsø Camping is good value. They have charming cabins that come with either shared or private bathrooms, and some even come with a kitchen. There is free parking on the property and you get access to the sauna and the bar. When booking, you have to stay for a minimum of two nights. The ‘Economy cottages’ are the budget-friendly options (though very modern inside!), while the other cabins are definitely high-end priced but absolutely beautiful. It’s a great option if you are coming to see the northern lights but may not be able to afford all the pricey excursions. Since this place is out of the city centre, there’s less light pollution.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Are there Airbnbs?

    There are Airbnbs, but please don’t consider booking one. At the moment there is a housing crisis in Tromsø and it is hard for young people to get into the housing market as apartments and homes are being bought up by greedy landlords to sell on Airbnb.

    If you want an apartment, consider one of the Aparthotels mentioned in this guide. You can get much nicer quality hotels and apartments and don’t need to stay at an Airbnb. 

    Final Thoughts on Where to Stay in Tromsø

    There are so many options on where to stay in Tromsø, and it can be overwhelming. It’s important to remember your budget and then decide if you want to rent a car or not. From there, you can narrow down how close to Tromsø city you want to stay. 

    Be sure to check out my Tromsø travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the capital of the Arctic. 

  • Where to Stay in Longyearbyen, from a Tour Leader’s Perspective

    Where to Stay in Longyearbyen from a Tour Leader's Perspective

    Longyearbyen has understandably transformed into this incredible tourist destination. Thanks to modern means of travel, it is now possible to go to a place that was once inhospitable. Us visitors no longer have to rough it like the explorers did just over 100 years ago; today accommodation choices make you feel like you’re in Oslo or Bergen. They are modern, trendy, but still maintain a cozy feel that highlights the incredible natural surroundings.

    I’ve been to Longyearbyen a few times both for work as a tour leader but also as a tourist. At first the hotels felt overwhelming, but after getting my bearings in Longyearbyen, I can see the variations of choice available.

    There is no such thing as budget travel to Svalbard, which I actually believe is a good thing as it prevents mass tourism. Still, there are ways to keep to a budget when travelling to Longyearbyen, and as you’ll see in this guide, one of the ways is by choosing the right place to stay. 

    I’ve put together this comprehensive but to-the-point guide for where to stay in Longyearbyen based on your preference. 

    Tip: The most popular hotels sell out months in advance, so it’s important to plan well ahead of time. For this guide I looked at hotels 10 months in the future (March 2025) and already some hotels were sold out. 

    Tip: No matter where you stay, the excursions you book will pick you up from your hotel. 

    Tip: The airport bus doesn’t stop at every hotel, but it stops close enough to many of them. 

    Price guide:

    • Budget friendly: 1500 NOK a night or less (marked green on the map)
    • Mid-range: 1500 NOK – 3000 NOK a night (marked blue on the map)
    • High end: 3000 NOK+ a night (marked red on the map)

    Affiliate Links:

    None of the hotels recommended here are paid placements or have sponsored this article in any way. I wrote this guide after visiting all the hotels when I went to Longyearbyen in March 2024. That said, if you book through the link provided here, I get a small commission at no extra cost to you, and that money contributes to this website. I appreciate the support!

    In this article...

    Be sure to check out my Svalbard travel guide, which includes practical information about travelling there but also information about the various settlements and wildlife. 

    Map of Svalbard

    Here is my overall map of Svalbard. The hotels are coloured according to their price (green = budget friendly, blue = mid-range, pink = high-end).

    Longyearbyen Centre

    Why Stay Here?

    Yes, there is such a thing as a city centre in Longyearbyen. This is the perfect spot to stay if you don’t want to be more than a 10 minute walk from the shops and restaurants. This is especially perfect in the winter months, where the temperatures of -20C don’t exactly make it appealing to walk to the way into the city. 

    However, the convenient location does mean prices are a little higher. 

    High End

    Svalbard Hotell the Lodge

    Svalbard Hotell the Lodge is expensive (prices for March 2025 for two people/two nights was 15000NOK!) but there’s a reason for it. The Lodge isn’t a traditional hotel; in fact it’s self-serviced apartments! Meals aren’t included here (you can add breakfast for an additional fee) but what you get instead is a full apartment with your own kitchen. This can be a way on cutting down costs if you don’t want to go out every night. To be honest, I’m not sure the high price justifies it. Also, on their website they say this:

    “Some of the apartments are subjected to noise from the pub on the first floor, especially during the weekends”

    So, I’m not sure it’s worth the price tag. Still, it comes down to personal preference. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Radisson Blu Polar Hotel

    This is where I stayed on my most recent visit, and I absolutely loved it! I know online it has a reputation for being the ‘tourist hotel’, but I was travelling as a tourist. Some excursions only start from one spot (so you have to make your own way there), and more often than not that one spot was the Radisson Blu. The airport bus to the airport also leaves from right outside here. It took me 5 mins to walk to the shops, 5 mins to the museum, and 15 mins to the old town. It was perfectly located.

    This hotel was the first hotel that was built in Longyearbyen. It opened in 1995 and the buildings are from the Lillehammer Winter Olympics 1994. 

    There are a couple restaurants located inside and the included breakfast is perfection. The rooms are big and I got a spectacular view of the mountains from my room. 

    I also want to add that the staff were some of the nicest I’ve encountered, and there’s a fantastic shop in the lobby. 

    This hotel is borderline high-end, with prices hovering between 2,500 and 3,000 NOK a night. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Basecamp Hotel

    I’ll admit, when I saw this hotel I kind of wished I had booked it instead. If you are trying to go for a more rustic Svalbard vibe, this hotel is a great option. Basecamp Hotel is designed to look like one of the historic cabins where hunters would stay. The recycled interiors are inspired by Arctic trapper’s huts. 

    Breakfast is included and the wonderful Kroa restaurant is part of the complex. The hotel also organises their own excursions.

    This hotel is practically across the street from all the shops. 

    This hotel is mid-range with prices starting at 2,300 NOK per night, but it can easily go into the high-end category if you want a larger-than-standard room. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Tip: If travelling in the summer months, be sure to pack a sleep mask. Not all hotels have black-out curtains, or curtains that work efficiently, so it’s important to bring one to get some sleep!

    Svalbard Hotell Polfareren or the Vault

    Please note that these are two different hotels under the one chain. Svalbard Hotel Polfareren is located on the main street, while the Vault is located a couple blocks away. However, I’ve included them under one because they are priced similarly. 

    Svalbard Hotel Polfareren is a boutique hotel taking inspiration from Svalbard’s distinctive character. The Norwegian explorer Eivind Astrup (1871-1895) was the inspiration for the hotel. He was Norway’s youngest recipient of the Order of St. Olav, so keywords such as rustic, timeless and robust are the reasons for the hotels design. The restaurant Polfareren is inspired by Nordic cuisine and changes with the season.

    Svalbard Hotel The Vault is a little more functional (rather than stylish) and takes inspiration from the Svalbard Global Seed Vault. The restaurant located here is Nuga, a Japanese restaurant.

    Honestly, I can’t see a huge difference between the two! I guess it comes down to price and location.

    Check Availability & Prices (Polfareren)

    Check Availability & Prices (The Vault)

    Longyearbyen City Outskirts

    Why Stay Here?

    If nature is why you’re here, there are a number of excellent choices in the ‘suburbs’ of Longyearbyen. The prices vary a lot, from luxury accommodation to budget friendly travel.

    Keep in mine that it takes at least 20 minutes to walk to where the shops and restaurants are, so there will be a bit of back and forth. There’s no public transportation in Longyearbyen, but there are taxis. 

    High End

    Funken Lodge

    Funken Lodge is the most expensive place to stay in Longyearbyen. Rooms are large and modern and there’s a French restaurant in the property. The hotel has more amenities than other hotels in Svalbard, including a luxury gym and champagne bar. 

    It is a 10-15 minute walk into Longyearbyen from Funken Lodge. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Mary-Anns Polarigg

    This is another contender for ‘places I wish I stayed at’. Mary’Anns is a quirky hotel located inside wooden miners barracks. The prices here vary a lot (which is why I marked it as mid-range), as there are cheaper rooms with shared bathrooms but also suites. But you don’t come for the rooms – it’s the shared areas that are everything. The mining-themed interior has reading nooks, a bar, an excellent restaurant, and laundry services. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Coal Miners Cabins

    If you are looking for good quality budget accommodation, the Coal Miners Cabins are a great choice. Almost all of the rooms have a shared bathroom, but there a few where you can pay more for a private bathroom (though that will go into the mid-range category).

    The building is a former miners barracks in the neighbourhood of Nybyen, about 20 minutes on foot from the main shopping street.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Gjestehuset 102

    Gjestehuset 102 is another excellent budget accommodation choice. All the rooms have a shared bathroom, and that is one of the reasons for the lower price. The hotel, like Coal Miners Cabins, is located in the neighbourhood of Nybyen and about 20 minutes walk from the main shopping street. Gjestehuset 102 offers mixed 4-person dormitories as well as single and twin rooms. Breakfast is included. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Haugen Pensjonat

    Haugen Pensjonat is located closed to the city than the other two options, but still has affordable prices. The hotel is primarily self-catering, with no reception. There are different types of rooms plus apartments, and bathrooms are shared between 2-3 rooms each. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Out of Longyearbyen

    Why Stay Here?

    You’ve come for the adventure! You want to be out of civilisation and experience the raw nature of Svalbard. I completely get it. 

    Due to the various environmental rules and regulations on Svalbard, plus the risk of polar bears, choices for outside Longyearbyen are limited to the campground, which for some may not be what you’re after. 

    Budget Friendly

    Longyearbyen Camping

    Longyearbyen Camping is the cheapest accommodation on offer in Svalbard. The campsite is located next to the airport, meaning that you can’t simply walk into the city centre (the airport is outside the city limits). Camping gear is available for rent and to protect the campers from polar bears, there is an electric fence and guard dogs.   

    Check Availability & Prices

    Are there Airbnbs?

    Yes! Since many of the locals work in tourism and may be gone for long stretches of time, they put their apartments up on Airbnb.

    The apartments come with kitchens and bathrooms, and the prices vary from budget-friendly to high end. 

    Click here to view a cabin for rent on a husky farm out of town. 

    Final Thoughts on Where to Stay in Longyearbyen

    Longyearbyen is undoubtedly becoming a huge tourist town, and because of this you’ll always have lots of choice for where to stay. 

    Just be sure to book early since places are extremely limited and do sell out! The hotel should be one of the first places you book for the trip (after flights!). 

    Be sure to check out my Svalbard travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the archipelago. 

  • How to get from Svalbard Airport (LYR) into Longyearbyen

    How to get from Svalbard Airport to Longyearbyen

    Svalbard, a Norwegian archipelago located in the Arctic Ocean, is a unique destination known for its stunning landscapes and wildlife. If you’re arriving at Svalbard Airport Longyear (LYR), getting from the airport to the main town, Longyearbyen, is relatively straightforward despite its remote location. I’ll admit, when I was preparing for my trip back in March I got so confused on how it all works. I ended up having to contact my hotel asking for help. Now that I’ve done it, I can’t believe how straightforward it is. How do you get from Svalbard Airport to Longyearbyen?

    So, I’ve written this guide to help you out. I’ve tried to keep it as to-the-point as possible so you find the journey easy. Here’s my guide to help you navigate the journey from Svalbard Airport to Longyearbyen. 

    How to get from Svalbard Airport to Longyearbyen

    Modes of Transport

    Airport Bus

    This is the most popular way to get to the city from the airport. There is an airport bus (Flybussen in Norwegian) that goes from the airport to most of the hotels in Longyearbyen.

    A one-way ticket is 100 NOK for adults, while an adult roundtrip ticket is 170 NOK. There are small discounts for students and children.

    The bus doesn’t stop at every hotel. However, Longyearbyen is small enough that it’s easy to walk to your hotel even if it isn’t listed below. Just choose the hotel closest to yours. Click the button below to see the route they take. 

    Taxi

    There is a taxi company in Longyearbyen and they operate 24/7. If you are staying somewhere unique, need to get to town quickly, or just want a more high-end experience in Longyearbyen, it is possible to get a taxi from the airport to the city.

    There is a taxi rank outside the airport, but no guarantee there will be taxis there. It’s best to call in advance and reserve a taxi.

    The cost for a taxi is approximately 200 NOK. Be prepared to pay with bank card.

    • Longyearbyen Taxi, phone (+47) 79 02 13 75
    Svalbard Buss and Taxi, phone (+47) 79 02 13 05

    Getting to Longyearbyen

    There is no schedule for the bus online! Rather, the bus is timed with the flights. When I landed in March, there were two buses. Tell the driver the name of your hotel, and they’ll point you to which of the two buses is going there.

    Since Longyearbyen is small, keep in mind they may announce one hotel and your hotel is right next door, so be aware of what’s around your hotel. They don’t stop at every hotel based on requests.

    You drop off your bag and sit on the bus. Once everyone has boarded, the driver comes around with a card machine and you pay for the ticket. You can buy a roundtrip ticket or one-way ticket. If you purchase a roundtrip ticket, you’ll get a printed copy. When taking the bus back to the airport, show the ticket to the driver.

    The buses wait until 40 minutes after the flights arrival, or when the luggage belt is empty.

    Once the bus (finally) leaves, it takes only 10-15 minutes to get to your hotel. 

    Getting to the Airport

    Inside your hotel will be a schedule for when the bus comes past. I stayed at the Radisson Blu and they had a clear timetable and a bus stop located outside the hotel on the road. The bus was punctual, thankfully – it was -20C outside when I was waiting!

    The Radisson Blu was the last stop before going to the airport.

    Because flights come in at different times every day, the airport bus schedule is not regular and you need to check the most up-to-date schedule. You can find the updated schedule on the Svalbard Buss og Taxi website below. 

    The schedule varies every day depending on the flight, so please check with your hotel or online for when the bus will be heading to the airport.

    At the Airport

    Once you’re at the airport, it’s a fairly quick and straightforward process. There are self-service ticket machines or a manned counter, and you go through security as you would in any Norwegian airport. There’s only one gate (see picture above) so you can’t get lost!

    From the Airport to Longyearbyen

    Hopefully this guide has cleared up how easy it is to get from the airport into Longyearbyen and then back again.

    If you have any questions, please ask in the comment section below!

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Svalbard, including all the settlements and itineraries for different times of the year. 

  • Unique Facts about Life on Svalbard

    Unique Facts about Life on Svalbard

    Svalbard is part of Norway, but is also very different than what you experience on the Norwegian mainland. In many ways, Svalbard is its own unique country with rules and regulations defined by protecting the vulnerable environment. 

    I’ve gathered some unique facts about Svalbard both from research online but also from when I visited and spoke to the locals there. 

    Here are my unique facts about Svalbard. 

    Table of Contents

    Geography & Nature

    With a surface of over 61,000 km2 (23,550 sq mi), Svalbard is about twice the size of Belgium. Glaciers cover about 60% of Svalbard’s landmasses, barren stone covers 27%, and just 13% is vegetation.

    Longyearbyen is closer to the North Pole (1,338km/831 miles) than it is to Oslo (2,313km/1,437 miles). 

    In March, the temperate is around -13C. That’s not so cold considering the latitude – the western side of Svalbard receives the warm Atlantic current and helps moderate the temperatures in Longyearbyen.

    As of 2021, Longyearbyen is the fastest-warming town in the world. Since 1971, temperatures on Svalbard have risen five-times faster than the global average. Winters are now more than seven degrees C warmer than they were in the 1970s. In 2020, Svalbard recorded its hottest ever temperature – 21.7C (71.1F).

    According to the Norwegian Meterological Institute, annual precipitation on Svalbard has increased by 30-45% over the past fifty years, mostly in the form of winter rain.

    In Longyearbyen, the midnight sun lasts from 20 April until 23 August, and the polar night lasts from 26 October to 15 February. Still, not the entire period of the polar night is completely dark. In November and February it is light for some time during the day.

    Svalbard is one of the few easily accessible places in the world where you can see daytime auroras (during the polar night when it’s pitch dark during the day).

    Demographics

    Longyearbyen is the world’s northernmost settlement with a population over 1,000.

    There are around 2,500 people living on Svalbard. Most of them are Norwegian (from Northern Norway), but the biggest non-Norwegian groups are Swedes, Russians and Thai. 

    Some people call Svalbard their true home – up until recent times, it was possible for babies to be born on Svalbard. I mean, it still technically is, but pregnant women are sent to the mainland three weeks before their due date. Some older people living in Longyearbyen were either born here or moved here as children when their parents got a job. 

    Longyearbyen

    Longyearbyen has several neighbourhoods. Gamle Longyearbyen is the place where the oldest settlement of Longyearbyen was. Sverdrupbyen is located in the upper part of the Longyear Valley outside the polar bear protection area. Nybyen is within the polar bear safety zone but still somewhat outside Longyearbyen centre.

    The streets in Longyearbyen have numbers rather than names.

    There is a serious housing shortage in Longyearbyen, so while it may be relatively easy to get a job, finding accommodation is hard – unless your employer provides accommodation. 

    Drinking water in Longyearbyen comes filtered from the lake, Isdammen, and is of very good quality. In Barentsburg, the pipes are very rusty and it is recommended that, if you are going to drink it, you let the water run from the tap for a while before doing so.

    One mine is still operating (mine 7) but it will close in two years and the city will rely on diesel for energy. Locals aren’t so happy about this because of the effort required to bring the diesel in.

    Longyearbyen has a problem with house fires because Svalbard is a desert and everything is so dry.

    A boat comes from the mainland every 10 days bringing supplies and large deliveries. The boat then takes back garbage. Flights come in almost every day with fresh food. 

    There are four Icelandic horses on Svalbard. They are located in a pen close to the airport (outside the city limits). 

    Rules for Living Here

    Cats are banned in Svalbard since they hunt and kill native birds.

    You can’t be buried on Svalbard. The ground is made of permafrost, so the bodies buried here do not decompose and therefore are a risk of carrying disease.

    It is highly recommended to not give birth on Svalbard as the clinic does not have the adequate medical supplies. Three weeks before a woman’s due date, she must return to the mainland to give birth.

    It’s customary to remove your shoes when entering hotels, shops and restaurants. This is a tradition that dates back to the coal mining days, as a way to prevent coal dust being tracked into the buildings.

    It’s not illegal to walk beyond the polar bear signs, but it is highly discouraged. You should be carrying a rifle, or with someone carrying a rifle.

    It’s an old custom not to lock your house in Svalbard. That way, if a bear shows up in town, people can always find a place to hide.

    There is a dog hotel just outside of Longyearbyen, where people who live in apartments, can keep their dogs. Most huskies and sled dogs aren’t used to living inside and they would also be too warm.

    Politics & Government

    The Svalbard Treaty defines that you do not need a visa to live and work in Svalbard. Norwegian law is applied here, and people can’t be discriminated against based on their nationality. 

    Sysselmesteren is the Governor of Svalbard. 

    The coal company Store Norske and the government are the biggest landowners, and most people living here have to rent their land from the government for a period 100 years.

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Svalbard, including all the settlements and itineraries for different times of the year. 

  • How to Get to Svalbard

    How to get to Svalbard

    Svalbard is one of the most special places on earth. This remote archipelago between Norway and the North Pole has for centuries been a notoriously challenging place to get to – many ships have wrecked off the coast of Svalbard and many early forms of flight have crashed or gone missing. Even the famous explorers like Roald Amundsen were not immune to Svalbard’s harsh location.

    Thankfully, technology has arrived at a place where we can travel to Svalbard relatively comfortable. Just fifty years ago, flights in and out of Svalbard were infrequent and challenge. Today, it is pretty easy!

    Here is my guide on how to get to Svalbard. 

    In this article...

    Flying into Svalbard

    Where do flights leave from?

    The only flights allowed into Svalbard depart from either Oslo or Tromsø. Some tour companies that have a ship in Longyearbyen will charter special flights from other destinations, but it is not possible to book a seat on those planes. 

    The gate in Oslo (with stopover in Tromso)

    Which airlines fly to Longyearbyen?

    In Norway, both Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) and Norwegian offer flights to Longyearbyen. SAS offers a daily service, while Norwegian operates both days.

    Tip: If you are planning to fly to Longyearbyen and are flexible on when you can go, I recommend signing up to the newsletters of SAS and Norwegian and wait for them to email you about a sale. Flights to Longyearbyen can be up to 50% cheaper if you wait for the right sale! I did just that and got round-trip flights for 3000 NOK (it’s normally at least twice that).

    Delays and Cancellations

    While it feels easy enough to get to Svalbard these days, keep in mind that the region is still exposed to bad weather and strong winds. Since Longyearbyen Airport has a short runway, conditions have to be good for planes to land there. There is a chance (especially in the stormier seasons) that flights will be delayed or cancelled.

    If you are joining a cruise in Svalbard, aim to be there 24 hours in advance. If booking excursions, don’t book them for the same day you land! 

    Direct from Oslo to Longyearbyen

    If you are flying direct to Longyearbyen from Oslo, your gate will be in the non-Schengen zone. That means that you will have to clear passport control before heading to the gate. This is because Svalbard isn’t in the Schengen region (see below about vias). 

    The gate at Tromsø

    Oslo to Longyearbyen via Tromsø

    Some flights to Longyearbyen from Oslo stop in Tromsø. When this happens, you have to get off the plane in Tromsø, go through passport control, and then get back on the plane. I did this when I went to Longyearbyen in March and it was a rushed but easy process. 

    Tip: Which side of the plane to sit on? Most of the time, the plane comes into Longyearbyen from the north, meaning you get spectacular views of the town from the A seats (left side of the plane). 

    When leaving, most planes fly south out of Longyearbyen, and I’ve found the best side to be the F seats (right side of the plane). 

    View of Longyearbyen landing at the airport (June 2023)
    The view flying over Svalbard

    Longyearbyen to Oslo via Tromsø

    I just want to quickly mention the journey back to Oslo via Tromsø. We got off the plane in Tromsø and had to clear passport control, collect our luggage from the luggage belt, head upstairs and re-check our bags in, and then go through security. This was a very stressful process! 

    Since Tromsø gets many international flights, there was a bit of a wait at the passport control. It then took time for our bags to come out, and the queues upstairs to drop off the bags were crazy. Thankfully staff opened up a line just for those coming from Longyearbyen and going to Tromsø, so that sped things up again. At security (another 10-15 min wait) we had to throw out water and so on, so keep that in mind. 

    At the moment Tromsø Airport is undergoing a huge renovation so things there are a little messy. 

    Why am I telling you all this? I wasn’t quite prepared for this hectic 40 minute process, so it caught me off guard. If you can get a direct flight to Oslo, or want to spent a few days in Tromsø, prioritise that instead!

    Cruising into Svalbard

    Svalbard Express

    The main ‘public ferry’ going between the Norwegian coast and Svalbard is Hurtigruten’s Svalbard Express. However, it doesn’t work like a ferry like how the coastal route does. You board the ship in Bergen and spend a few days docking along the coast before making your way to Longyearbyen and Ny-Ålesund. The ship then heads back south to Bergen, stopping off in some ports along the way. 

    Cruise Ships

    Some cruise ship companies go from the Norwegian mainland to Svalbard. These include:

    National Geographic

    Some cruise companies combine Svalbard with Greenland or other Arctic regions. These include:

    Quark Expeditions

    Oceanwide Expeditions

    Fred Olsen

    However, if you are serious about seeing wildlife in Svalbard, prioritise booking a cruise that circumnavigates the island. 

    Visa Requirements

    There is no visa required for Svalbard, but you must transit through Norway to get here, and therefore you need to follow the entry rules for Norway.

    When leaving Norway to Svalbard, you will have your passport stamped. Svalbard is not part of the Schengen zone.

    How to Get to Svalbard

    Hopefully this guide has cleared up exactly how to get to Svalbard from other places. Please use the comment section to ask any questions you may have!

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Svalbard, including all the settlements and itineraries for different times of the year. 

  • The History of Longyearbyen

    The History of Longyearbyen

    If you’re going to Svalbard, you will be going to Longyearbyen. The only settlement open to the public to stay at, Longyearbyen is the hub of Svalbard and starting point for all the expeditions and day trips around the archipelago. 

    While today Longyearbyen as a vibrant, modern and lively town centre, this is all very recent. For the first several decades of the towns existence, Longyearbyen was a harsh and inhospitable place cut off from the rest of Norway. However, people chose to come here because of the mining activity that has been taking place here since the towns inception.

    Before you to go Longyearbyen, be sure to understand a little of the settlements history. Here is my History of Longyearbyen. 

    In this article...

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Svalbard, including all the settlements and itineraries for different times of the year. 

    Early years of Longyearbyen

    Longyearbyen, nestled in the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard, boasts a captivating history woven with exploration, mining, and Arctic survival. While it was a place where there were hunters and explorers from the 17th century onwards, many consider Longyearbyen’s beginnings to be mining, but that’s not totally true. In fact, the first reason for people coming to Longyearbyen was tourism. In 1896, Vesteraalens Dampskibsselskab (later Hurtigruten) started tours to Hotelneset, the name of the peninsula where the airport is today. A prefabricated hotel was built and two families lived on the property all year round. A post office operated by the Norwegian Postal Service was even established here. However, this wasn’t a successful business because of the cost of maintaining the property.

    John Longyear & the Discovery of Mining

    The American industrialist John Munro Longyear visited Spitsbergen in 1901 as a tourist and met an expedition prospecting for coal. Two years later he came back and got more information on the coal fields. Longyear bought the Norwegian claims on the west side of the Adventfjord, and in 1906 started the Arctic Coal Company. Mine 1a was the first mine to operate at Longyearbyen. The company had American administration but mostly Norwegian labourers and they built accommodation and docks for the workers. The name of the settlement – Longyear City. The aerial tramway that is still visible on the mountainside was used to transport the coal from the mine to the port. Mine 2a opened in 1913.

    Longyearbyen in 1908

    The American-owned company did not last too long. Financial difficulties during World War I led to the mining operations being bought by the Norwegian company Store Norske, which was incorporated in Oslo in 1916. Store Norske built five new barracks and a hospital. Store Norske owned a great deal of the town. Store Norske even had their own money (with approval from Norges Bank), consisting entirely of banknotes at par with the Norwegian krone.

    Mine 1 closed in 1920 after 26 men were killed in a coal dust explosion. Remains of the mine are still visible on the mountainside.

    Establishing Longyearbyen as a Town

    As mentioned above, a hospital and even money were brought to Longyearbyen in the 1910s. In 1920, the Church of Norway appointed Svalbard’s first vicar and teacher – Thorleif Østenstad. A school was established jointly by the church and Store Norske. At first, there were 8 students here. The first church in Svalbard opened in 1921, though was eventually destroyed during World War II.

    Because Store Norske now owned mining activities, the town was renamed Longyearbyen in 1926.

    Tourism began in 1935, when SS Lyngen started calling regularly during the summer season. In 1938, Longyearbyen’s first road was completed and linked the town with Sverdrupbyen further down the valley.

    World War II

    During World War II, Longyearbyen gained strategic significance due to its coal resources and suffered bombings by German forces in 1943. Initially Longyearbyen was unaffected by the war, but soon it became clear that Svalbard was of strategic important. On 3 September 1941 the population (765 people) were evacuated from Longyearbyen to Scotland. A small Nazi garrison and air strip was established in Adventdalen, mostly to provide meterological data. After the British Operation Ftirham regained control of Barentsburg, the Nazis left Longyearbyen without combat.

    Ruins from World War II in Longyearbyen

    In September 1943, the Kriegsmarine dispatched two battleships, Tirpitz and Scharnhorst, and nine destroyers to bombard Longyearbyen, Barentsburg and Grumant. Only four buildings in Longyearbyen survived – the hospital, power station, office building and a residential building. The first ship leaving the mainland to repopulate Longyearbyen left on 27 June 1945.

    Immediate Post-War Development

    Post-war, the Norwegian government took control of mining operations, leading to further development and stability. By 1948, coal production had reached the pre-war level. The neighbourhood of Nybyen was established in 1946 and consisted of five barracks, each housing 72 people.

    The first issue of the Svalbardposten newspaper was published in November 1948. A year later, Longyearbyen got a telephone connection to the mainland. The cemetery that had been established in the 1920s closed in 1950 because the bodies were not decomposing due to the permafrost and keeping them risked disease. Since then, bodies have been sent to the mainland for burial. The community centre Huset opened in 1951.

    'Normalising' Longyearbyen

    In the 1960s, the town began its modernisation process. The first snowmobile was brought here in 1961, and by 1969 there were 140 registered snowmobiles against 33 registered cars. Television broadcasting equipment was installed in 1969, with the schedule of the Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation being aired with a two-week delay. Television became live in 1984.

    In 1971, a new school building opened along with a gymnasium and swimming pool. In 1978, an upper secondary program was introduced at the public school.

    The Svalbard Council was established on the 1st of November 1971 and it consisted of three different groups: Store Norske employees, government employees and others.

    The airport opened in 1975 and initially provided four weekly services to mainland Norway and semi-weekly services to Russia.

    Do you remember the Store Norske money that was introduced back in the early days? That was taken out of circulation in 1980 and the Norwegian kroner has been used since then.

    Svalbard Samfunnsdrift, a company responsible for public infrastructure and services, was established by Store Norske in 1989. They are responsible for healthcare, the fire brigade, the kindergarten, roads, rubbish disposal, power production, the water and sewer system, cinema, cultural activities, and the library. Ownership was taken over by the Ministry of Trade and Industry in 1993.

    Modernisation of Mining

    Mines continued to open around Longyearbyen in the 1970s. Mine 3 opened in March 1971, and Mine 7 opened in 1972. In 1973, the Ministry of Trade and Industry bought a third of Store Norske – eventually it owned 99.94% of the company.

    From 1982, Store Norske permitted private individuals to own and operate cars, and by 1990 there were 353 registered cars and 883 snowmobiles. Store Norske moved their headquarters from Bergen to Longyearbyen in 1983.

    Modern Times

    Over time, Longyearbyen modernised, improving infrastructure and amenities for its residents. This process has been called ‘normalisation’ and included introducing a full range of services, a varied economy, and a local democracy.

    Yet, economic challenges emerged in the latter half of the 20th century as coal prices declined, prompting a shift towards diversification. Mining is planning on closing in Longyearbyen altogether. The first major hotel opened in 1995 (now the Radisson Blu), the Longyearbyen Community Council was established in 2002, and the University Centre in Svalbard opened on 6 September 1993 and had 30 students. Telenor mobile was introduced in 1995, and in 2004 the Svalbard Undersea Cable System opened, providing fiber-optic cable connection to the mainland. The Svalbard Global Seed Vault opened in 2008.

    Today, Longyearbyen’s economy revolves around tourism, research, and education. As a base for scientific expeditions, Longyearbyen hosts research institutions studying climate change, wildlife, and geology. However, it also faces unique challenges, such as extreme Arctic conditions and the impacts of climate change. Despite these obstacles, the town has adapted, implementing measures to ensure safety and sustainability.

    Longyearbyen’s cultural heritage is preserved through museums, historic sites, and local traditions, celebrating its diverse influences from Norwegian, Russian, and American backgrounds. Ultimately, Longyearbyen’s history embodies human resilience and exploration in one of the world’s most unforgiving environments.

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Svalbard, including all the settlements and itineraries for different times of the year.