Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.
If you’ve been to Norway, or are planning your trip, you’ll know there are waterfalls everywhere. Some waterfalls are ‘famous’, with signage, parking and maybe even a souvenir shop. They are famous for a reason: not only are they huge, wild, unique, or gorgeous. They were some of the first tourist attractions in Norway.
And Låtefossen is one of them.
The Odda Valley has the nickname “the valley of waterfalls”. The area was utilised in the 20th century to develop heavy industry around the waterfalls. Today, though, many of the factories are gone. The Odda Valley is a very scenic drive. Not all the waterfalls are accessible from the highway, but luckily Låtefossen is.
Låtefossen is located just a short drive outside Odda in Western Norway. It is famous for its photogenic and historic stone vault bridge crossing the waterfall at its strongest point.
What I think makes Låtefossen one of the best waterfalls in Norway is a blend of its history and its natural beauty. This waterfall isn’t just a stream of water shooting off a mountain; it’s got a story. When I know the story of a place, I find that I always appreciate it more.
Below you’ll find my overview of Låtefossen, including its past and present-day.
In this article...
The Rv13 Highway
Låtefossen is located along the Rv13, a major highway along western Norway. You can find my guide for the Rv13 by clicking the link below.
Odda grew as a cruise destination in the 19th century (you can read about this in my article about the history of Odda), and Låtefossen was a prized attraction. When cruise ships docked in Odda, farmers with horse carriages would collect tourists. They would make the journey up to Låtefossen, and a small hotel there sold coffee. Only the ruins of the hotel remain today.
English and German visitors were in awe of the waterfall. Here’s a snippet of what they said:
It is only when you stand on a small hill, where the restaurant is built, that you get the right view of this sea of foam, steam and spray, for the amount of water you do not see anymore. White water-veils wave over the waterfall and twinkles and lightning in all the colours of the rainbow in the sunshine. But this is not all: Directly opposite these two-dimensional, gigantic, ancient waterfalls, an equally beautiful, white, blurry, undulating mass, Espelandsfossen, plunges over a vertical rock wall. When you stand on a beautiful green spot in one of the most picturesque valleys in the world, and look at Låtefossen, Skarsfossen and Espelandsfossen that greet each other, then this is a picture that is too big to say, and which there is hardly any like in all of Europe.
In the early years of tourism, there was no bridge. The construction of the road between east and west Norway promoted the need for a bridge. Construction of the bridge ended in 1859. Yet it wasn’t long before the bridge became narrow for the large increase in traffic.
During the mid-1940s, the bridge was expanded by 2m – it is now 6m wide. The part that is in all the photographs today is from the newer extension; we don’t see the old bridge.
With an increase in cars, expansion of the bridge finished in the 1960s. The bridge you see in the photos is this new bridge.
Waterfall Facts
Låtefossen is among 93 watercourses that are permanently protected under a conservation plan in Norway. Of the famous waterfalls in the Hardanger region, it is the only one that is not regulated for hydropower.
The source of the water is LotevatnetLake, which is 340m high up on the mountain. The lake flows down in two separate streams. They join together and flow under the bridge into the river Grønsdalslona. The height of the waterfall is 165m (541ft), though this is debated as topographic data shows this to be incorrect. [mfn]https://snl.no/L%C3%A5tefoss[/mfn]
The strength of the waterfall depends on the seasons. It is the strongest in spring when the snow is melting. Moreover, heavy rainfall also results in a strong waterfall. My photos are from September 2020, when we’d had about two weeks straight of rain.
There are possibilities to walk around the area and get a better photo. For example, the ruins of the old hotel provide a more unique overlook. However, the vast majority of people stay in the car park – I explain this more below.
Memorial statue
Statue in the carpark
There’s a German statue in the car park, not too far from where I was standing to take all the photos in this article. The statue is a memorial for Gustav von Hahnke, a German military officer, and it was erected by Kaiser Wilhelm II. It reads:
For Lieutenant Gustav von Hahnke. onboard the Hohenzollern 11.07.1897 who died in this spot.
He had been on a bike trip on the mountain when he fell. It took some time before his body could be recovered. Gustav vacationed with Kaiser Wilhelm II every year in Odda over the summer holidays.
My thoughts
I’ve visited the waterfall twice – in April 2018 and September 2020. When I visited in April, it was completely frozen and the bridge was covered for renovations. As you can imagine, I was not so impressed.
The second time I visited, in September 2020, the husband and I were doing our Ultimate Norwegian Roadtrip. I wanted to snap a quick picture before we made our way to Stavanger. I was very impressed with how strong the waterfall was. It’s cool to see it blowing over the road. And we had it almost to ourselves thanks to the pandemic that destroyed tourism in 2020.
You don’t need to spend much time there; we were there around 10 minutes. Of course, it was pouring rain and we didn’t want to venture too far from the car. If it had been good weather, I would’ve sought out the path to the hotel and spent a little more time there.
If you’re in the area, it’s well worth stopping at Låtefossen!
Practical information
Getting there
It is possible to take a public bus from Odda. From the bus station, take bus 930 called Odda-Seljastad for 18 mins (12 stops) until you get to Skarsmoen. From there, it’s a 1.5km walk to the waterfall.
Most people get to the waterfall by car; it is a 20 minute drive from Odda centre.
Parking
If you are driving away from Odda, the parking space is on your side of the road. The parking area is very small and there are no guidelines as to how to park your car. Basically, in summer it becomes something of a ‘free for all’ with caravans, buses and cars squeezing around each other to find a space to park. Even when I visited in September without tourism, I barely got a park due to so many caravans. Many of the TripAdvisor reviews mention how bad parking is. The best thing you can do is go early in the morning or late in the afternoon, or just cross your fingers that it’s not so busy.
Viewpoint
The viewing point is practically the same block as the parking area. There’s no special platform or path to take to get to the viewing point. You park and make your way to the end of the parking lot.
You can’t walk onto the road that goes over the waterfall. It’s the main highway to/from Oslo, and there are trucks and cars speeding past.
Facilities
Across the road from the parking lot is a kiosk/souvenir shop that’s open in summer. I’m not sure why they put it on the other side of the road as it means you have people running across a main highway to get to either spot. The restrooms are also there – they are only open in summer
The Rv13 Highway
Låtefossen is located along the Rv13, a major highway along western Norway. You can find my guide for the Rv13 by clicking the link below.
For me, Odda is a small, industrial town close to lots of beautiful places. But Odda itself is not exactly beautiful; the large factories overshadow the small town. The Netflix series Ragnarok used Odda as its setting to critique the heavy industry in the town. Odda is on the first day of my Ultimate Norwegian Roadtrip, so I took the time to read up on the town. And boy, the history of Odda is fascinating.
I’ve put together a summary of my History of Odda notes for this article. I am a tour guide and not a historian, so this article is a collection of my notes. I have included a list of resources at the bottom of this article.
Here’s the history of Odda.
In this article...
The Rv13 Highway
Odda is located on the Rv13, a major highway through western Norway. You can view our guide for this drive by clicking the link below.
The name ‘Odda’ comes from an old farm that stood close to where the Odda Church is today. At the time, churches are on the largest farms; this is a sign of wealth. Until the 19th century, Odda was a small farming community. In 1801, there were 10 houses in Odda with a total population of 59.
19th Century Tourism
Odda’s growth begins with tourism. In Norway, tourism starts in the 19th century. Many fjord towns (for example Flåm and Geiranger) emerged as legitimate towns and not just isolated communities. The same thing happened with Odda; cruise ships began making the journey into the Sørfjorden and docking in Odda. Once on land, farmers with horses greeted the tourists and took them to see nearby attractions.
Thanks to tourism, Odda grows rapidly. By 1900, the population had risen to 383. The Hotel Hardanger opens to accommodate the rise in tourists. Sadly, it burns down in a major fire in 1895; this is an event the Odda locals consider to be one of their most devastating. However, just 10 months later, a new Hotel Hardanger is standing.
Tourists in Odda
Who came to Odda? Many visitors were English, but there were also some celebrities. Most famous is the German Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm II. He vacationed in Norway all the time and visited Odda every year between 1891 and 1914. He gifted the town with its first hospital and many fire hydrants. Kaiser Wilhelm is famous throughout Norway because he is the one who helped to rebuild Ålesund after their devastating fire. Maybe he didn’t want the same thing to happen in Odda!
The new Odda Church is from in 1870, one year after the historic church is torn down. The old church is from 1250, but it was too small for the growing community. The new Odda Church seats 500 people.
Industrial Growth
Shortly after the cruise ships began coming to Odda, industrialists began to visit. They saw the potential of building industry here. After all, Odda has many waterfalls and watercourses that can produce electricity. Waterfall buyers (yes, that is a thing) at the time were travelling Norway to buy waterfalls. Most buyers came from overseas, and 75% of developed waterfalls are by foreigners. It’s important to note that Norway at the time is a poor country with little skills. The foreign companies didn’t keep it to themselves; they taught Norwegians how to do it. The same goes for the oil industry in the 1960s. The ice-free harbour only furthers interest in building up Odda.
Albert Petersson
Professor Albert Petersson came to Norway from Sweden to find a place to build a factory that produced carbideand cyanamide. Honestly, explaining what those are is beyond me, so you can click them to read about them. Anyway, he found Odda and waterfalls. The factory is built in record time and creates hundreds of new jobs. It is the largest in the world at the time. In 10 years, the population rises from 383 to 3077.
Most importantly, Odda Fabrikkane employs around 1000 people. The daily wage is 4-5 NOK for 10 hours of work, well above the standard salary for the time; a good suit costs 15 NOK. The company builds houses and apartments for its workers, some of which you can still see today.
Meanwhile, neighbouring Tyssedal is undergoing the same rapid growth. A hydropower plant is built within two years and begins supplying electricity on 4 May 1908. Odda is one of the first towns in Norway to get electric power for lights and simple appliances in 1913.
Decline of tourism
Of course, the rapid increase in industry causes an effect on tourism. What was once an idyllic, natural and clean destination for travellers is now overcrowded and polluted. Hotel Hardanger turns black from the emissions, and the smog covers the fjord. The hotel tries to sue the factory for damages, but it is not paid out until 1922. The hotel is already bankrupt by then.
Cruise ships continue to come to Odda until World War I, but they stay on the ship instead of the hotel.
World War I
More importantly, Odda grinds to a halt when World War I breaks out. While Norway remained neutral throughout the war, it had a huge impact on the industry in the country. 1000 men are fired in one day, and a couple of days later only 700 men are left in Odda. Also, Dr. Albert Petersson disappears; he is travelling to England on a ship when no one sees him fall overboard in the middle of the night.
The road between Odda and Tyssedal begins construction in 1916; they use mostly factory workers that are laid off.
It is not all bad for Odda, though. the Odda factories are producing calcium cyanamide, a chemical fertiliser. Until after World War I this was the chief alternative to nitrate fertiliser. It also serves as a raw material in chemical compositions, for example in the explosives.
The 1920s
Firstly, war and smoke have put a stop to tourism, and Odda has too many hotels. Most of them are empty all year round. As a result, Hotel Hardanger is sold to the municipality and converted into the town hall.
Secondly, the chemical industry in Odda is based on war production. After the war, there is a great deal of overproduction and large stocks. Odda Fabrikkane goes bankrupt and shuts down in 1921. In Tyssedal, the Nitriden factory – one of the world’s largest producers of crude aluminium – goes bankrupt and closes a couple of weeks later. 1000 people are unemployed as a result of these two factories closing.
Despite this, forced labour in the 1920s and 1930s leads to Odda getting 103km of new roads.
In 1924, the factories merge under the name Odda Smelteverk. They have the purpose of running factories and selling chemical and metallurgical products. Many of the unemployed get their jobs back, but it doesn’t last too long.
Five years later, the economic crisis of 1929 leads to record unemployment in Odda. In 1935, around 15% of all Norwegians depend on public poverty relief to make ends meet. In Odda, 900 people are unemployed. The huge unemployment makes the welfare expenses are too high and the municipality goes bankrupt in 1932.
World War II
The first indication of World War II coming to Odda was on 3 April 1940 (6 days before Germany invaded Norway). A German plane dropped a bomb on a pile of stones on the hillside, followed by more German planes dropping bombs to spread fear. One hits a house and crushes it, while another one hits a cafe.
Germans don’t arrive in Odda until the 15th of May, over one month after the initial invasion. At the first meeting of NS (the Nazi Party of Norway) in Odda, few people attend while hundreds protest outside. There is an active resistance movement in Odda throughout the war. On 1 March 1943 nine locals are executed at an internment camp in Oslo.
The Germans are drawn to Odda with its various factories, and they begin exploiting the aluminium factory as well as building their own. However, development is too slow and they abandon plans in 1943. They are building on agricultural land, and it is now destroyed.
The 1950s
Things are looking up for Odda in the 1950s. A new hospital, city hall and school are finished using taxes from the factories.
Moreover, in 1961, the road between Odda and Tyssedal is (finally) finished. In 1968 the European Highway 134 finally opens too – it is the oldest open winter road connection between east and west Norway.
The 1970s
In 1970, the population of Odda is 10,000. To make way for modern housing, historical buildings are torn down. This includes the historic Hotel Hardanger.
Fixing Pollution
In the 1970s, more attention and care is being given to how much these factories are polluting. And boy, is Odda polluting.
It starts with the Norwegian state introducing a law that Norwegian companies must report their marine discharges. One factory in Odda alone dumps 600 tonnes of waste material per day into the fjord.
The Sørfjord is declared one of the most metal-polluted water areas in the world, and it is spreading into the Hardangerfjord.
The zinc factory begins the first purification measure. It builds a purification factory for mercury. Their method eventually becomes an important example of environmental technological innovation that reduces global pollution of mercury. Another plant builds mountain halls to store waste. By the end of the 1980s, emissions in the fjord are reduced by 99%.
Ways to reduce pollution are still ongoing in Odda, with new methods of recycling and reduction constantly developed.
Preserving the history of Odda
By the 1990s, the situation for Odda Smelteverk is not looking good. The factory goes bankrupt in 2002.
In the 1990s, the end of a factory in Odda does not mean huge unemployment. New industries are growing in Odda, and the dependence on factories is declining. Meanwhile, the history of Odda and its industry is important, so several books are written. A movement begins in Odda to get on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Most importantly, the council is for it but the locals oppose it. Odda Smelteverk is protected in 2011 as a national heritage site.
The Folgefonn Tunnel opened in 2002, allowing people to drive 11km under the glacier. This reduces travel time to Bergen dramatically.
In 2020, Odda merges with the neighbouring districts of Ullensvang and Jondal to become a new municipality called Ullensvang. Finally, in 2024, work is going to begin on a new and safer winter road between east and west Norway.
Odda Today
The history of Odda ends with it almost coming full circle. Today many people in Odda still rely on the factories for a living, but many people are now working in new fields, particularly medical and social services. However, tourism is rapidly growing in the region, thanks to the natural beauty that attracted tourists 170 years ago. The Odda Smelteverk is now a museum you can visit. Next time I get to Odda I’ll be sure to cover this fascinating part of the town.
The Rv13 Highway
Odda is located on the Rv13, a major highway through western Norway. You can view our guide for this drive by clicking the link below.
Odda is a small town located in the Ullensvang municipality in the county of Vestlandet in Western Norway. The town is famous for its proximity to nature, namely the Trolltunga hike and the Folgefonna National Park. However, it’s worth spending some time in Odda itself. The town is historic for its rapid and important industrial growth that took place at the start of the 20th century, so much so that it became UNESCO World Heritage-listed in 2009. Here are some interesting facts about Odda to highlight what makes this town special and unique.
Published on 1 January 2020 on ssb.no. This is for the municipality of Ullensvang, of which Odda is part of.
Visit the ssb.no website here. I’ll try to update this every year; if my statistics are out of date, notify me in the comments.
Population 11,048
19 babies were born in 2019, while 29 people died
The population is currently declining; in 2030, it’s expected that 10,360 people will live in the municipality
The main industry is ‘sekundærnæring’, which refers to goods that are produced by processing raw materials from agriculture and forestry. This includes mining, general goods, water and power plants, oil refining and construction. The raw materials are extracted and then produced and processed by factories.
The second largest industry is hospitality services (e.g. hotels, restaurants, shops and real estate), while the third-largest is health and social services
92% of children attend kindergarten
49.6% of students use public transport to get to school
3,762 detached houses; 807 apartments. 79% own their property
33.3% live on agricultural property
2.11 residents per household on average
6,630 books were borrowed from the library; 16.1 visits per cinema performance
There are 10 voluntary teams and associations
80.6% are members of the Church of Norway; 4.9% are members of other faiths
Population density of 4 inhabitants per km2. 64% live in urban areas
The municipality is operating at a loss of 4.4%
History
Odda grew up around the smelter in the early 20th century.
The name ‘Odda’ comes from an old farm that used to stand in the area. Additionally, the church was on the site.
Odda has been populated for centuries, but it wasn’t until the mid-19th century that the population really began to grow. First this was from tourism, but later it was from industry.
One of the most important historical buildings in Odda was the Hardanger Hotel, which was torn down in the 1970s.
Kaiser Wilhelm II visited Odda every year between 1891 and 1914. He gifted the town with its first hospital and many fire hydrants.
The Odda Smelteverk, which closed down in 2003, has been on the UNESCO List of World Heritage Sites since 2009. It shares this title with important industrial sites throughout southwestern Norway. The statement says:
“What makes Odda smelteverk so important and central to the application of Norway’s hydro power sites and pioneer chemical industry as a World Heritage Site is the fact that here in an internationally unique way the physical remains of an early chemical production process are still present.”
Ullensvang Municipality coat-of-arms
The municipality is named after the old Ullensvang farm, since the first church was built there. The Old Norse word is Ullinsvangr – the first part references the Norse god Ullin, while the last part vangr means field or meadow. The coat of arms comes from a nobleman, Sigurd Brynulvsson Galte, and it can be seen on his grave dating back to 1302. It is the oldest gravestone in the village and the arms are well known. In 2020, the colour scheme was changed from red/yellow to blue/white after Odda municipality merged with Ullensvang municipality. [mfn]https://www.heraldry-wiki.com/heraldrywiki/index.php?title=Ullensvang[/mfn]
Geography
Odda is located on the southern tip of Sørfjorden (Southern Fjord), which is a branch of the Hardangerfjord (the second-longest fjord in Norway). Sørfjorden is surrounded by very steep mountains and renowned for its beauty.
The Sørfjorden is 38km (24 mi) long and is the longest arm that branches off the Hardangerfjord.
All the villages along the Sørfjorden are filled with fruit farms and orchards, growing fruits like apples and cherries.
The Buarbreen Glacier in the background. Taken in April 2019.
In the western part of Odda is the Folgefonna Glacier, including the Buarbreen Glacier close to the town centre.
Odda. Taken in September 2020
Industry
Odda is the commercial and economic centre of the entire Hardanger region.
Odda Hospital is the main hospital for the inhabitants of Hardanger.
The municipality, Ullensvang Municipality, is Norway’s largest supplier of fruit, especially cherries and apples.
Odda town centre. Taken September 2020
Culture & Everyday Life
The locals in Odda have a unique dialect. When migrants came from across the country to work at the smelter, they brought their unique dialects. Moreover, they developed a new dialect in Odda that’s a mixture of what’s spoken in their home regions. Most importantly, this is a phenomenon termed by linguists as a ‘Koine Language’.
Odda has its own song, called the Oddasangen. The melody was written by Andreas L. Eide and the text was written by Haakon Scheide Lutken. The song was first published on 17 May 1914.
Every summer in nearby Lofthus is the Norwegian Championship of Cherry Stone Spitting. The current record is 14.24m (46.7ft).
Famous People from Odda
Knut Knutsen (1832-1915)
Knut Knutsen is one of Norway’s first professional photographers. His work includes images from most of Norway and documents Norwegian history and ethnology. He left a collection of 13,500 wet and dry plate negatives, and about 20,000 albumin silver prints. The negative and print collection are at the Picture Collection, University of Bergen Library.[mfn]https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knud_Knudsen_(photographer)[/mfn]
Anne Birkefeldt Ragde (1957-)
Anne Birkefeldt Ragde is a Norwegian novelist known for her children and young adult books. Her most famous novel is a biography about Sigrid Undset, for which she was awarded the Brage Prize.
Svein Olav Herstad (1969-)
Svein Olav Herstad is a jazz pianist known from his own bands and several recordings with musicians.
Leif Einar Lothe (1969-)
Leif Einar Lothe is a Norwegian television personality known as ‘Lothepus’ – he is a starring character in the documentary series Fjorden Cowboys. He also releases music, which you can listen to below.
I think one of the best ways to see Norway is by car. It may seem a little intimidating at first, with all those mountain roads, ferries, tolls, and crazy expensive petrol. But if you plan accordingly and have the budget for it, you’ll get to see the best bits of nature. And one of the best things to do is driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord.
There are two ways to get to the Hardangerfjord from Bergen: the Hardanger Scenic Route and the main highway to Granvin through Voss. The Hardanger Scenic Route certainly sounds appealing, but if narrow fjord-side roads make you nervous, or you’re short on time, the main highway is an excellent alternative.
(click the image to see it larger)
I’ve done both ways so many times; my family is from the innermost part of the Hardangerfjord so we always try to make a day of it when we are going to the farm. Also, it’s common to do day tours to Hardanger from Bergen.
For my overview, I’ve used Granvin as the end-point. It’s not really famous for anything; it’s a crossroads. From Granvin you can head to Ulvik, Eidfjord, Utne and Odda: four very popular places to spend the night. The advantages of each of them:
The Hardanger Bridge, which you take to Eidfjord and Odda
Where to Stay in Hardanger
Ulvik:
The famous Brakanes Hotel is a good option for the night
Ulvik has the apple cider route, where you can visit farms and try their produce
Eidfjord:
Leads up to the famous Vøringsfossen and then the scenic road over the Hardangervidda National Park down to Oslo
Hardanger Nature Centre is located here
Beware – major cruise port!
Utne:
Incredibly scenic with a historic hotel
The Hardanger Scenic Route continues on this side of the fjord
Odda:
The Ullensvang Hotel is a historic hotel
The popular hike to Troll Tongue starts at Tyssedal
Folgefonna National Park
If you are doing this as a day-trip from Bergen and back, it’s very easy to do both roads in one day.
Anyway, here’s my overview of what you see when driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord.
The Hardanger Scenic Route
The Practical Info
Distance from Bergen to Granvin: 127km / 79.1 miles Time from Bergen to Granvin: 2 hours 9 minutes (not including stops) Toll Cost: 100 NOK [mfn]https://www.fjellinjen.no/private/toll-calculator/[/mfn] Open All Year? Yes.
The turn-off to the Hardanger Scenic Route is located at a roundabout in Trengereid. Here’s what you can see, stop at, and experience as you head towards Granvin:
Ådland Church
Ådland Church is a historic church located just outside Samnanger community. A church as stood on this site since the 12th century and the first church was likely a stave church. A new church was built here in 1652 and then it was replaced in 1851 by the church you see today.
The church is used for weddings, baptisms, confirmations and service takes place every other Sunday.
Samnanger
Samnanger is a small village around 20km (12 miles) from Bergen, though the drive is considerably longer thanks to the mountains. It is separated from Bergen thanks to Gullfjellet, the tallest mountain in the municipality. The village grew in the early 20th century thanks to the construction of hydroelectric power plants in the area.
The body of water you’ll see here is the Samnangerfjord, which is 22km (14 miles) long and forms the southern boundary of the Bergen peninsula.
Facilities: Grocery stores (SPAR and Kiwi Bjørkheim) Cafe/Kro (MIX) Petrol Station
Mørkhølsfossen
Mørkhølsfossen is a waterfall located alongside the road. There’s a place to park the car and go for a short 400m walk along the river.
Facilities: Rest stop
Fossen Bratte
Fossen Bratte is a more well-known waterfall along the Hardanger Scenic Road. The waterfall is 80m long.
During World War II, the valley was the scene of fighting when the Germans were making their way inland. There was a barrier position put up in the bend in the road where the waterfall throws itself out. If you walk to the top of the waterfall (there is a path), you’ll see a cannon and some signage commemorating the Norwegians who lost their lives here from this fighting.
If you walk to the bottom of the waterfall, which again is on a path, you’ll come to another memorial. In 1951, a married couple were on their honeymoon when they drove off the road here. The waterfall is nicknamed the ‘bridal veil’ and many think it’s from that, but the nickname has been used since the early 20th century.
This is a very popular stop and the carpark is tiny.
Facilities: Restrooms Car parking
Eikedalen
Once you’re on the other side of the tunnel after Fossen Bratte, you’ll see many, many cabins on the hillside. This is the area known as Eikedalen and Kvamskogen, and it’s a popular ski area for the Bergen locals.
Eikedalen is the name of the ski centre that is soon on your left. It has the 10th longest chairlift in Northern Europe at a length of 1800m. The highest peak is Grøtet, which is 918m above sea level. In total, Eikedalen has a total of seven ski lifts with 12 slopes.
Kvamskogen
Kvamskogen is the name of the mountain plateau and region. In total, there are over 1700 cabins in this area; the third-highest concentration of cabins in the country.
Historically, this was a mountain pasture of the farmers from Steinsdalen (where Steindalsfossen is). The farmers used the area to cut grass that would then be brought home by horses in the winter. Much of the wood the farmers needed was also here.
The road you’re on was the main road between Bergen and Eastern Norway in 1907. From the post-war period onwards, the drive was increasingly difficult due to the number of parked cars on Kvamskogen. Even though the road has been widened and carparks added, it can still sometimes take a long time to pass through here.
The Old Highways
Once past Kvamskogen, the road has four tunnels as you make your way down to Steinsdalen (Stein Valley or ‘Rock Valley’). These four tunnels were built in the 1950s after the old highway was becoming increasingly dangerous.
As you drive through the tunnels, there are openings on the side that shows the old road. The old road was built between 1903 and 1907, with large sections built by hand while workers hung from ropes. The rock in the mountain is ‘junk rock’ and is slowly breaking apart, meaning, there were lots of rockslides on the road. This is why the tunnels were built.
After the last tunnel, there is a parking area to the right. However, when I stopped there recently the rock was crumbling under the carpark and the fence was almost hanging off the side. Not the safest spot to stop.
Steinsdalsfossen
This is one of the most famous waterfalls in Norway. You are able to walk behind the waterfall without (mostly) getting wet. It is at its most full in May-June when the snow is melting. The drop of the waterfall is 20m.
Facilities: Toilets (closed October – May) Souvenir shops (two of them!) Coffee and snacks Information boards
Norheimsund
Norheimsund is a small town with a settlement of 4,399 inhabitants. It is the shopping hub for the outer Hardanger region and has plenty of shops and facilities. Norheimsund is also a traffic hub. From here, you can take a ferry to Utne and Odda, or take a bus to Bergen, Voss, Vikøy, Tørvikbygd, Jondal, Strandebarm and Kvinnherad.
The town centre of Norheimsund was destroyed by a fire in 1932 and has been rebuilt in a functionalist architecture, so it’s not the most beautiful place. During World War II, the occupying forces had a large training camp in Norheimsund and defence installations were built against the fjord.
The Hardanger Maritime Centre is a foundation that restores and protects different types of boats. It’s possible to visit the area during the summer season.
Facilities Hotels (Thon Hoten Sandven) Shopping Mall (Straumen Senter) Grocery stores Sporting goods store Pubs, restaurants, cafes ATM Hardanger Maritime Museum & Maritime Centre Emergency room Petrol station
Øystese
Øystese is a small town just 7km (4 miles) from Norheimsund. The town is on the up and up, with a brand-new Hardangerfjord Hotel and Spa built alongside the fjord.
There’s a quirky sculpture museum here with the works of Ingebrigt Vik. The building looks like it shouldn’t be in a small Norwegian village.
Øystese itself is known for its furniture production, especially in tables. There’s also a printing press here, dairy factories and shops. The church was built in 1868 and is a typical 19th century church.
Facilities Hotels (Hardangerfjord Hotel) Grocery stores Electronics shop Cafes/restaurants Pharmacy Petrol station Art House Kabuso Hardanger SkySpace
Fyksesund Bridge
Shortly after leaving Øystese you’ll cross the Fyksesund Bridge. It is 344m long with a span of 230m. It was opened by Crown Prince Olav on 9 Octobe 1937 and at the time it was Northern Europe’s longest suspension bridge.
The fish farm on a gorgeous spring day
Hardanger Akvasenter
Immediately after the bridge is the Hardanger Akvasenter, an active fish farm that you are able to visit. The main display centre/museum is in Øystese, but if you book ahead you can have a tour of the fish farm. At the fish farm you’ll learn about how salmon farming works. The fish farm is owned by Lingalaks AS, which is responsible for the fish production in the area. It’s a family owned company that today has about 2.5 million fish in their farms and employs 40 people. If you stay at the Hardangerfjord Hotel, you can taste the salmon there.
The view from the top of the farm
Steinstø Farm
Steinstø Fruitfarm has been owned by the same family for nine generations. If you visit the farm, you can learn about how the farm is run and how it was run in the past. There’s a shop by the road that sells fruits and berries as well as homemade apple juice, homemade jam, jellies, lefse, apple cake and souvenirs. There’s also a small café where you can have coffee and cake. Restrooms are under the building.
In any case, it is possible to book a visit to the farm, but it’s often reserved for groups.
Steinstø has become very popular in recent years, so if you’re visiting in summer you may see a couple tour buses parked out the front.
Facilities Cafe Restrooms Shop
Note: Their opening hours vary quite a lot throughout the year. Check the website/Facebook page before going:
The rest area is an idyllic spot with a view over the Hardangerfjord. On a clear day, you can see the Folgefonna glacier. The area is built on two levels.
Facilities Toilets Picnic/BBQ Information board
Ålvik
Ålvik is a small town that is known throughout Norway for its industrial site. A factory was built here at the beginning of the 20th century to take advantage of the hydroelectric power from the Bjølvo waterfalls. The factory was completed in 1919, producing calcium carbide for a time. The villages population rose from 75 to 500 following the opening of the factory. In the 1920s, the company was given major sales contracts for ferrosilicon to the British steel industry. A production line for ferrochrome was established in 1934.
The road connection to Bergen was added in 1937.
The plant made Ålvik the most polluted place on the Hardangerfjord and at times the whole town could be covered in smog. Government environmental regulations put pressure on the company, and ferrochrome production ended in 1979. Ferrosilicon was prioritised to comply with environmental standards and furnaces were rebuilt, making it possible to recycle excess heat.
Stopping for photos somewhere near Ålvik. Photo taken in April.
The factory is still the village’s main employer. It is now a subsidary of Elkem, which is owned by China National Bluestar. Today the factory recycles waste from aluminium production. The hydropower plant is now owned by Statkraft.
The Ålvik Industrial Worker’s Museum documents the village’s labour heritage through the exposition of two restored workers apartments typical to the 1920s and 1950.
Today Ålvik has a primary school, kindergarten, nursing home, church, library, several artists and plenty of hiking trails.
Granvin
You’ll drive alongside the Granvinfjord before you make it to Granvin, and this part of the drive is especially narrow! The Granvinfjord is 10km (6.2 miles) long and less than 1km wide. At the end of the fjord you can see the lumber and wood products industry, which in 2019 accounted for 80% of all industry-related employment in the area. Granvin is home to one of Norway’s few spruce forests.
The name Granvin comes from an old farm that used to stand here. The coat-of-arms is the Hardanger Fiddle, which is representative of the folk tradition of the region.
During World War II, there was some fighting between German and Norwegian forces here. Germans landed in Granvin on the 25th of April as part of their movement towards the military camps at Voss. Four Norwegians and at least 30 Germans fell during the fighting. The population has decreased significantly since the war. 29% of the population here commute to Voss for work.
Granvin is an agricultural area characterised by livestock, mainly sheep. There’s a fantastic shop you should visit – Kjerland Gardsbutikk – where you can look at and buy produce from all the surrounding farms.
Facilities: Rental homes Grocery stores Charging station for electric cars Kjerland Gardsbutikk
The Highway Through Voss
Here’s option two! Driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord through Voss is a great option ff you’re short on time or don’t want to drive on narrow roads.
The Practical Info
Distance from Bergen to Granvin: 129km / 80.4 miles Time from Bergen to Granvin: 1 hour 52 minutes (not including stops) Toll Cost: 72 NOK [mfn]https://www.fjellinjen.no/private/toll-calculator/[/mfn] Open All Year? Yes.
The village as seen from the Hananipa hike I did a while back
Vaksdal
This will be the first point of interest after going through Trengereid. Vaksdal is a small community known for the Vaksdal Mill, which was established in the late 19th century using power from the nearby waterfalls. The waterfall was first utilised with mechanical transmission of power to the mill machines. Vaksdal Mill was once the largest mill plant in Northern Europe. During World War II, there was heavy fighting in Vaksdal between the 19th and 23rd of April. Three Norwegian soldiers and one civilian and a larger, but unknown, number of German soldiers fell in Vaksdal.
Dale
If you love knitwear, you’ll love Dale! This small village is famous for Dale of Norway, a Norwegian knitwear brand. The business was established in 1872, when industrialist Peter Jebsen (1824 – 1892, you can see his house on my Årstad walk) first established a textile factory in Dale. After World War II, the factory developed exports of its knitted sweaters. Since 1956, Dale of Norway has designed and produced official Olympic and World Championship sweaters for the Norwegian National Alpine Ski Team. They were also later chosen to design the official sweaters for the Winter Olympic Games through the IOC, with rights to use the Olympic symbols.
It’s possible to visit the Dale of Norway factory. If you plan ahead you can take a guided tour. If you just show up, there’s a great outlet store!
Dale has a small church, the Dale Church, which dates to 1956 and can be seen from the road.
Facilities Roadside Cafe Petrol station (shell) Dale of Norway Factory Outlet and Museum Grocery Stores (Coop Extra, SPAR)
Bolstadøyri
Bolstadøyri is a historic spot on the old route between Voss and Bergen. Before the train link was built, transfer between the two was by horse and boat. This is where the boat journey started.
Evanger
Evanger is a traditional West Norwegian village. The village was destroyed by a fire on the 10th of April 1923 and was rebuilt exactly how we see it today. Because of this, Evanger town centre has been regulated as a special area of protection as a culturally and historically valuable building environment. Evanger Church escaped the fire and was built in 1851.
After that, outside the courthouse is a monument to Knute Nelson, who was born here and emigrated to the United States in 1849. He became a lawyer and politician and was for many years a senator for Minnesota.
Evanger is famous in Norway for its cured meats. There are several companies here that specialise in the production of traditional food.
Facilities BnB Grocery store (Landhandleri)
The Voss River
The Voss River is a famous salmon river. When tourism was growing in the 19th century, English ‘salmon lords’ would travel here to catch some top-notch Norwegian salmon. The biggest salmon to be caught here was 32kg! In the last few decades, the salmon population has declined due to pollution, disease and other unknown factors.
Voss
Welcome to Voss! There’s a lot to do in Voss, and you could easily spend a night here.
According to legend, the people of Voss were forcibly converted to Christianity by King Olav, who later became Saint Olav. There’s a stone cross located by the lake that is said to have been erected at this time.
The Voss Church is built on the site of an old pagan temple. The church was built in 1277 under the instruction of King Magnus the Lawmender and it is one of the few buildings that survived the bombing of World War II.
When Germany invaded Norway on the 9th of April 1940, Voss was the main point of mobilisation for the Norwegian Army in the West since Bergen had fallen. To break down the resistance, the Luftwaffe bombed Voss on the 23rd and 24th of April and then the surrounding countryside on the 25th of April. Nine people lost their lives and the bombings completely destroyed the wood-built town centre. You’ll notice Voss has a very concrete look today; it was rebuilt cheaply during and after the war.
Voss is known far and wide for its extreme sports. You can do skiing, water sports, skydiving, paragliding and other adventure sports here. The brand-new Voss gondola opened in 2020 and it’s used for tourists or for hikers and skiers.
Facilities All the facilities of a mid-size town (groceries, shopping, ATM, petrol station, cafes and restaurants, etc) Toilets available at the train station Voss Gondola Hotels (Fleischer’s Hotel, Park Hotel, the brand-new Scandic Hotel) Voss Folk Museum
Skjervsfossen
Around half-way between Granvin and Voss is Skjervsfossen. Take the detour road off the main highway for this incredible sight. It’s possible to park at the top and the bottom of the waterfall and well-worth it. There’s a network of paths and stairs so you can walk around the waterfall and surrounding area.
The historic route is called ‘Skjervet’ and forms the old highway.
Facilities Toilets (closed October-May) Picnic/BBQ Information board about the area
Granvin Church
Shortly before arriving in Granvin you’ll pass the Granvin Church, which was built in 1726 and represents a typical example of an 18th century church building. In 2012 the church was listed for preservation as a culturally and historically important example of the richness of decoration in early 18th century churches.
Scenic Detour to Ulvik
If you’re planning to go to Ulvik, there’s a scenic road you can take over the mountain (rather than going along the fjord). It begins in Granvin (there’s a sign for the turn-off) and you can stop at a viewpoint overlooking Ulvik on the way back down. The road also passed the apple cider route in Ulvik.
Driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord
In conclusion, I hope this article has given you some ideas about how to drive from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord. In any case, there are no losers. Both drives are incredibly scenic and have unique attractions.
If you have any comments or suggestions please mention them below!
When visiting Bergen, you’ll see all of these flyers and ferries promoting day trips to the fjords. There are so many ways to get to the fjords from Bergen, and there are so many different place-names that are unfamiliar to visitors. I decided to write an overview of which areas are the best places if you want to take a day-trip from Bergen to get to the fjords. There are better tours than others, and there are more scenic places than others, but it depends on how much time you have, your budget, and your own personal interests. Here’s how to get to the fjords from Bergen!
How much time do you have? From Bergen, you can either take a half-day trip or a full-day trip. The half-day trips take 3-4 hours, while the full-day trips take up to 12 hours. The more time you have, the more flexibility and chance you have to see the dramatic fjords. Half-day trips do not take you to the most dramatic places.
What is your budget?
Any tour from Bergen is expensive, often costing between 1000 and 2000 NOK. The half-day trips are of course cheaper, varying from 450 to 700 NOK. The more money you spend, the more you’ll see. The cheaper tours may not be worth your money as they don’t take you out to the most dramatic areas.
Can you do it yourself?
The ‘in a nutshell’ options are not guided and use public transport, which you can book yourself. In some cases, it works out to be cheaper.
Do you need a guide? Possibly. It depends on your interests. I’m working on writing guides to all these places, but hiring a guide in some cases is really well worth it. You want to make sure the guide knows the areas, though. If you end up with a new guide who lives in Bergen, chances are they’ve been to the fjords just a couple times.
The reality of seeing the fjords
Bergen is on the coast, while the most dramatic scenery is found inland. You don’t get dramatic fjords along the coastline; instead you get rocky islands and a very flat landscape. If you want to see the most dramatic bits of nature, you have to head inland. This is when a half-day becomes a full-day.
Spending the night
If you get the chance, opt to spend a night in one of the small villages to break up your trip. It gives you more time to see things and enjoy the nature. Try to spend a night in places like Flåm, Balestrand, Ulvik, Eidfjord, or even Voss.
Full day trips: The Sognefjord
The Sognefjord is the longest fjord in Norway and the second longest in the world. You won’t have time to see the whole fjord in a day, and you don’t need to. Towards the sea, it’s quite flat and rocky (and maybe a little dull). Further inland you do get the more dramatic scenery. However, visiting the Sognefjord is perhaps best when you visit the small fjord branches off it, namely the Naeroyfjord (UNESCO World Heritage listed) and the Aurlandsfjord (where Flåm is). These are the two ‘must-see’ fjords on the Sognefjord and where most tours will take you.
Flåm Railway
Norway in a Nutshell
Norway in a Nutshell (NiN) is the famous day trip that will take you to some of the most beautiful places in Western Norway. It comprises of a series of public transport routes that will take you on trains, ferries and buses past dramatic scenery. It’s a great option if you really want ‘Norway in a nutshell’, but keep in mind it’s incredibly popular in summer.
What You Do:
Train from Bergen to Voss
Bus from Voss to Gudvangen (note – you don’t stop at Tvindefossen or Stalheim Hotel)
Ferry from Gudvangen – Flåm on the Naeroyfjord (the true highlight!)
The Gudvangen to Flåm Ferry is incredible and is the absolute best of the best when it comes to getting a true feel for the fjords. I can’t recommend it enough
The Flåm Railway is incredibly famous and well worth it. You see the typical West Norwegian landscape on a 55-minute train ride!
Things to Consider:
The trip takes 10-12 hours and has little time to stop and relax. You are constantly on the move, and photo-stops on the trains and buses aren’t possible.
Besides the Gudvangen – Flåm ferry, you don’t see fjords. You’re up in the mountains
Consider spending a night in Flåm to make the trip more relaxing
Balestrand
Sognefjord in a Nutshell
The Sognefjord in a Nutshell is run by the same team as Norway in a Nutshell (NiN from here on in), but you take a 5.5 hour ferry cruise from Flåm to Bergen instead of taking a train back. Is the Flåm – Bergen Sognefjord cruise worth it? Maybe for the first couple hours. I find long parts of it to be a little boring, and the ferry is a little basic for such a long trip. Still, though, you see most of the Sognefjord and the coast around Bergen.
Train from Myrdal to Flåm (the famous Flåm Railway)
Ferry cruise from Flåm – Bergen
The Good Bits:
Taking the Flåm Railway, of course
You get some time in Flåm before the afternoon cruise
The Flåm to Bergen cruise often has commentary and you do pass some genuinely pretty places
Things to Consider:
While it’s not that much longer than NiN, it can feel it. The train from Bergen to Myrdal is long, and the ferry is even longer.
Consider breaking up the trip with a night in Flåm or Balestrand
Hopperstad Stave Church in Vik
Day cruise to Vik
If you want to see the fjords but feel Flåm is a little too far away or crowded, you can book a day cruise to Vik, a small village on the Sognefjord. You take the Bergen – Flåm ferry but get off in Vik, and get five hours in the village to taste cheese, have soup for lunch, and have a guided tour of the Hopperstad Stave Church, possibly the oldest of the stave churches. This is all included in your ticket.
Morning ferry Bergen – Vik (same ferry that goes to Flåm)
Lunch in Vik followed by cheese tasting
Guided tour of Hopperstad Stave Church
Ferry back to Bergen
The Good Bits:
Hopperstad Stave Church is really worth seeing!
Things to Consider:
You won’t see the dramatic scenery you think of when you hear ‘fjord’. The Sognefjord is wide and the mountains in this area aren’t as steep as what you’d see towards Flåm
It’s the same ferry and the same views back and forth
You can take a train to Voss and then a bus to Vik and save time and money if you want to see the stave church.
Round trip cruise to Flåm
Want to see Flåm and nothing else? Take that 5.5 hour ferry from Bergen to Flåm! You get 2 hours to explore Flåm before turning around and going back.
Honestly? Taking that 5.5 hour ferry two times in one way sounds tedious to me. If you’re thinking about doing this one, spend the night in Flåm or do NiN.
Drive Bergen to Voss and then to Gudvangen via Stalheim Hotel. Then you head from Gudvangen to Flåm
Drive Flåm – Aurland and up to the famous Stegastein Viewpoint
Lunch in Flåm
Ferry Flåm – Gudvangen (the same very scenic ferry I mentioned above)
Get picked up in Gudvangen and drive back to Bergen
The Good Bits
Stalheim Hotel and the view from it is INCREDIBLE. And the road down from Stalheim to Gudvangen, Stalheimskleiva, is a terrifying but excellent highlight
Stegastein Viewpoint is incredible
Lunch in Flåm!
The ferry cruise on the fjords is included
Things to Consider
There’s no Flåm Railway included
Almost all of the driving is inland. You see the fjords on the cruise and at Stegastein
Full day trips: The Hardangerfjord
The Hardangerfjord is the second-longest fjord in Norway and is often regarded as the most beautiful fjord. It’s a popular place in the summer but generally less crowded than the Flåm area, so it’s a good alternative if you want a little more peace and quiet.
Hardangerfjord in a Nutshell
This is the Hardanger equivalent of NiN. While I haven’t done the program, I have been to all these places, and to be honest it looks lovely and more scenic than NiN. You take a fjord cruise that isn’t as famous as the UNESCO Gudvangen-Flåm cruise, but it is still incredibly breathtaking. Also, the scenery here is a little more varied than what you get on NiN.
Much like NiN, it’s a lot of being shuffled around with little time to stop and appreciate nature
Seriously consider breaking the trip up with a night in Eidfjord
NiN operates all year round; Hardangerfjord in a Nutshell only operates during the summer months. There is a winter version of the tour that doesn’t have the Eidfjord – Norheimsund cruise but instead you drive from Eidfjord to Odda (this is a gorgeous drive!) and then to Rosendal, where you take the ferry back to Bergen. This ferry isn’t as scenic. See below. Click here to see the winter program.
Kvinnherad church in Rosendal
Boat cruise Bergen to Rosendal
If you want to see the Hardangerfjord but save some money, you can visit Rosendal with the public ferry for a day. You get 3.5 hours in Rosendal, which has a famous manor house (Barony Rosendal) and the Folgefonna Centre which is a museum about the nearby national park. Still, 3.5 hours is a lot of time and you don’t get to see the park.
What You Do:
2 hour ferry from Bergen to Rosendal
3.5 hours in Rosendal
2 hour ferry back to Bergen
The Good Bits:
The Folgefonna Centre is a great museum about the nature of the region
Things to Consider:
You don’t really see the Hardangerfjord; most of the cruise is along the coast
There isn’t so much to do in Rosendal
Hardanger apple farms
Guided Bus Tour to Hardanger + Lunch and Cider Tasting
Here’s the non-public transport option. You can join a guided bus tour from Bergen to the Hardanger region and get a chance to taste some apple cider. I wouldn’t miss this chance; the region is famous for it. And I personally love it. Bring me back a bottle, please? The bus tours from Bergen have great schedules, but it’s still a lot of driving and being shuffled about.
What You Do:
Drive from Bergen to Norheimsund, stopping at Steindalsfossen on the way
Take a ferry from Tørvikbygd to Jondal
Visit some apple cider farms
Take the ferry back to Tørvikbygd
Drive back to Bergen
Shorter Fjord Tours
If you don’t have the time or funds to take a full-day trip from Bergen, there are some wonderful half-day options available.
Mostraumen
Bergen - Mostraumen Cruise
This is a very popular tour from Bergen. You go along the coast and then through the Osterfjord towards the Mostraumen Strait. Once there, you turn around and come back to Bergen. They have two departures a day in the summer and also operate in winter. The area is scenic and gives you a glimpse into the Norwegian fjords.
This is a different company than the one mentioned above, but it seems like they go to the same place. This tour promotes itself as going all the day to Modalen, a tiny village at the end of the Mofjord (where the Mostraumen Strait is). The area around Modalen was a Viking settlement area and there is a church from 1024 located in the village (though it was rebuilt in 1622)
You can book a RIB boat safari from Bergen, which would be a lot of fun. You don’t see the fjords really; you’re more zig-zagging between islands and skerries on the coast. Still, it sounds like a good tour!
The half-day tour to Skjerjehamn is a nice and popular half-day trip for those with little time, but again it doesn’t take you to the steep fjords. You take a scenic cruise along the coast to Skjerjehamn harbour, where you get to spend a little under an hour walking around before taking the same cruise back to Bergen.
I hope my overview has been of some use to you. I know there are so many companies offering so many variations of trips to places with strange names, but hopefully this makes it a little easier for you.
If you’ve done one of these tours, write what you thought of it in the comments. Similarly, if you know of a great tour I haven’t mentioned please write it below.
I hope you enjoyed my guide on how to get to the fjords from Bergen!
A trip to the top of Mount Fløyen is a must for anyone visiting Bergen. It’s the most famous of the seven mountains that surrounds the city centre. From the top, you get sweeping views over Bergen, the suburbs, the fjords, and the ocean. It makes sense that it is one of the top five destinations in Norway. And who wouldn’t miss a chance to get a selfie at the top?
The most popular thing to do in Bergen is take the funicular – Fløibanen – that goes from the city centre to the top of Mount Fløyen. But why funicular when you can walk? Walking up to the top station has so many benefits – you get to see the nature, different sides of the city, and you get this sense of accomplishment when you reach the top.
The walk to the top of Mount Fløyen is easy, short, and one of my favourite things to do.
Information online about walking up Mount Fløyen is scattered at best because there are so many ways to get to the top. I’ve put together this guide with the best way up and down so you can make the most of your own hike.
If you do want to know more about the funicular, or plan on taking it one way, you can view their website here.
Fløyen is one of the seven mountains that surrounds Bergen. It is 400m (1300ft) high at its highest point, though the top station of the funicular is 320m (1000ft) above sea level.
The name fløyen probably comes from a weathervane that used to be at the top. It was used to indicate the direction of the wind for sailing ships – the Norwegian word for it is fløystangen.
The mountain used to be used for farming, but since the 19th century there has been an increased focus on using it for recreation purposes.
About the Hike
There are many different paths up and down Mount Fløyen. The way up and down that I’m about to describe is (in my opinion) the best for views and the best for your legs if you aren’t an experienced hiker.
The hike up is 3km (2 mi) and takes around 1 hour – it can take as little as 45 minutes if you are quick or using it for exercise. However, I’d allow an hour if you plan on taking photos or want to set your own pace.
The walk down is a different path so you see different views. It is roughly the same distance – 3km/2 mi – as the walk up. It is mostly on a paved road. The walk down takes about 40 minutes.
The Hike Up
Starting Point
We are going to stat at the lower Fløibanen station. Behind it, you’ll see a hairpin road that leads up the hill. At the top, you’ll see a white wooden building with a tower. That’s where we are going.
Skansen
Skansen is a district in Bergen that was a farming area until the late 19th century. Throughout the 19th century, Bergen became increasingly overpopulated. Skansen was built up with housing to accommodate the growing population. At one point, Skansen and the neighbouring Fjellsiden were the most densely populated suburbs in Norway.
Originally running water didn’t reach Skansen, so the Skansedammen (Skansen Lake) was built to provide water to the area. The lake was built in 1881 and was not just for running water but was also used as a water source to protect the wooden houses in the area. There used to be carp fish in the lake for fishing; in 2014 they were taken and given to the Aquarium as food for crocodiles! The lake was rebuilt at this time; and the new lake is 19.5cm deep. Under the lake is a parking garage with space for 193 cars.
Today Skansen is characterised by its old fire station, which is the white wooding building we’ll reach at the end of the hairpin road. The fire station was built in 1903 after a large investment in fire protection. The building is inspired by 17th and 18th century Bergen architecture and is built in the typical timber style. It originally had one garage, a stable room and a workroom. The fire station closed in 1969 and today it is used as a clubhouse for the Skansens Battalion, the local buekorps group.
Memorial
Before you get to the staircase, you’ll pass a memorial commemorating all the members of the Skansens Battalion who fell during World War II.
Husk at hesten trenger hvile
The beginning of Tippetue is at the famous rest stop Husk at hesten trenger hvile(remember that a horse needs rest).
This is where the intersection with Fjellveien is. Fjellveien is a well-known and much-loved flat walking trail that goes around the mountain. It’s a great option if you want to see a lot of the city and forest without too much hiking.
At the rest stop you’ll find the bust of Ole Irgens, who was one of the main driving forces behind the construction of Fjellveien.
Tippetue
Tippetue is the name of the hiking trail. The name, which is quite strange (it’s pronounced like tip-eh-two-ah), comes from a town legend. There was a man who lived in Bergen in the second half of the 19th century. He frequently hung out at the pub not far from the starting point of the trail. The pub was known as Breistølen Farm and there was a scenic overlook point next to the pub. The man probably had outrageous behaviour when he was drunk, so the locals named him Tippetue. Originally the path was to be called Skovveien (Forest Way), but the locals always referred to it as Tippetue and the name eventually stuck. The famous scenic overlook is a little later on our walk.
The gravel road up from the city was finished in 1908, and the path to Fløyen was finished a few years later. UiO Information about Tippetue
Note – the starting point of Tippetue is around 900m from the lower funicular station – our starting point. The next 1km of the path consists of a series of hairpin bends, but you are never walking on a steep path.
Kindergarten & Trollskogen
Shortly after the kindergarten you’ll see Trollskogen, or the troll forest. It’s about 200m from the top funicular station. Trollskogen is a play area in the forest for kids, with plenty of wooden troll statues scattered throughout the park. There are cubby houses, bridges, ropes, and anything kids can use for play. It’s understandably very popular with kids, but also with visitors who want to see real trolls!
At the Top of Mount Fløyen
There are three places to get food at the top of Mount Fløyen. The first is in a small, white wooden building and doubles as a souvenir shop that’s well worth checking out. The second is a new cafeteria-style building with baked goods and coffee. The third is in the largest white wooden building and is the Fløyen Folkerestaurant (click here to see their website).
For the kids, there is a large playground that will keep them busy for hours. At the front of the playground is a troll, so be sure to get a photo with him!
Of course, don’t miss the scenic view over Bergen. You’ll see the bay (Vågen), Bryggen, the churches, the fortress, the fjord, the island Askøy, the peninsula Nordnes, the mountains surrounding Bergen, and so much more.
There are many hiking trails that start from the top of Mount Fløyen. You can read about them on the Fløibanen website (click here). I’ll cover them in a future article.
The Hike Back Down
To get to the beginning of the path down, walk around the Fløyen Folkerestaurant with the view over Bergen to your right hand side (and the restaurant on your left). You’ll pass the wooden building where the goats live – and might even see them! – before reaching a concrete path that feels like it’s sticking out of the mountain over the view.
The path winds around an active park where you can zipline and take part in various outdoor activities. If you take a detour and walk through the forest you’ll get to Bergen’s secret cabin, TubaKuba.
TubaKuba
TubaKuba was designed by students from the Bergen School of Architecture as a way to get more children to play in the Norwegian woods. The wood has been bent to mimic the horn of a tuba (hence the name). The cabin is intended to be explored – children have an easier time fitting through the rabbit hole door than adults and can emerge on the other side to be in a small box that overlooks Bergen city centre.
TubaKuba can be rented as a cabin for a night – groups of up to five individuals (with families being given priority) can rent TubaKuba on a nightly basis. It’s small, but very cozy with a wood stove and a lofted area with the beds. The only condition is that they accept that people may come through the rabbit hole at any point to have a look – it is first and foremost a public space.
If you keep an eye out on your right hand-side, you’ll pass a plaque. It commemorates an old ski jump that used to be on the side of the mountain. On Midsummer 1949 an event took place here that brought well-known ski jumpers from around the country to jump off this old ski jump. If you look up the mountain behind the plaque, you can see where the old ski jump was.
The stone reads:
til minne om tranegutter som St. Hansaften 1949 arrangerte hopprenn i denne bakken med deltakere som Birger Ruud, Petter Hugsted og med flere av de best hopperne i Norge. Bakkerekorden har tilhørt vår alles skuespiller Rolf Berentzen.
in memory of ‘tranegutter’ who on Midsummer 1949 arranged jumping races on this hill with participants such as Birger Ruud, Petter Hugsted and with several of the best jumpers in Norway. The record has belonged to our all-time actor Rolf Berentzen.
Skansemyren Sports Ground
We are now in the residential area of Skansemyren, which has a mix of houses and apartments. We’ll walk between them for a little while, giving you a nice look at some typical family homes.
Fjellsiden
You’re getting close to the city when you see the bunched up wooden houses of Fjellsiden. Those 19th century buildings were built to accommodate Bergen’s rapidly growing population. You see them when there’s less than 1km to go!
Back at Tippetue!
The path ends at the husk at hesten trenger hvile rest stop we began at. From here, cross the road and head back down the stairs to reach Skansen and the city.
I hope you enjoyed the walk! In total, it should take 2-3 hours, depending on your pace.
The Flåm Railway is one of the ‘musts’ when you come to Norway, and it’s easy to see why. It has repeatedly been named the “most beautiful train journey” in the world by travel magazines and appears on endless lists of Norway’s highlights.
Information on the Flåm Railway is mixed and oftentimes confusing. Norway in a Nutshell? Cruise ships? Which side is best? And when you see the price tag for a ticket, you want to make sure you’re doing it right.
Fear not! I’ve done the Flåm Railway dozens of times in my four years of guiding in Norway, so I’ve put together an overview of what exactly the Flåm Railway is and how it works.
The Flåm Railway is a train journey between the villages of Flåm and Myrdal in Western Norway. It is one of the steepest railways in Europe, rising from 2m above sea level to 864m above sea level over a distance of 20.2km (12 miles). It has a gradient of 1 in 18 (5.5%) throughout 80% of the trip.
The journey takes 55 minutes, starting by the fjord and travelling through the valley towards the top of the mountains. As you can imagine, it’s incredibly scenic.
National Geographic Traveller Magazine called the Flåm Railway one of the top 10 train journeys in Europe, while in 2014 Lonely Planet went further and named it the best train journey in the world.
Brief history of the Flåm Railway
Planning
In the early 20th century, as the Bergen to Oslo Railway (or Bergensbanen) was being built, it was decided that a railway was needed to connect Norway’s two largest fjords – the Sognefjord and the Hardangerfjord – to the Bergen Line to help with the transportation of goods from the farms to the big cities.
The train link to the Hardangerfjord was completed first and then work began on the Flåm Railway. At the time, Flåm was a tiny farming village that had an occasional cruise ship but wasn’t the popular attraction it is today. it was just conveniently located for the building of a train line.
Construction 1938 (Source Digitaltmuseum.no)
Construction
Work on the Flåm Railway began in 1923, and as you can imagine it was a major challenge for the workers. To start there were 120 men working on the construction, though the number generally fluctuated between 80 and 280 people. Barracks were constructed to house the employees.
The local economy was stimulated by farmers being paid for transport. Using horses, they transported tourists by day and materials by night.
18 of the 20 tunnels were carved out by hand. On average, it took between 116 and 180 man hours per metre (35-55 hours by foot).
By the time Norway was invaded by Germany in April 1940, the railway wasn’t complete. It was the Germans who expedited the completion of the railway. It opened for steam trains on the 1st of August 1940 purely for cargo. The line opened for passenger trains in February 1941. In November, regular operation began.
Electric Locomotive 1968 (source Digitaltmuseum.no)
Shift to Tourism
After the war, the tourism potential of the Flåm Railway was soon realised. With the construction of roads, the train was no longer needed to transport cargo. The Flåm Railway was transformed for tourists, with the Kjosfossen Waterfall stop opening in 1951. At that time, the Flåm Railway was taking 115,000 passengers per year.
Kjosfossen stop in 1971
Flåm Today
The Flåm Railway has since earned a reputation as a ‘must-do’ when in Norway. In 2007, it was the third-most visited attraction in Norway, carrying 547,000 passengers in 2010. That number has ridden considerably since then.
Flåm has transformed itself from a small farming village to one of the busiest tourist areas in the country. As late as the 1980s almost all of the residents were farmers. Today, almost all of the 400 people who call Flåm home work in tourism. Flåm is one of the busiest cruise ports in Norway, receiving 150+ cruise ships in the summer months.
If you want to learn more about the history of the Flåm Railway, there’s an excellent museum in the old station that’s free to visit and open all year.
What time of year is best?
The Flåm Railway runs all year, and it is completely different depending on the season. If you travel in the early months of the year, you’ll see lots of snow. With May comes bright green trees and plants, and there are large waterfalls from the melting snow. In October you get the lovely autumn colours. There is no right time of year to do the train – it’ll fit in with your travel plans whenever. The only thing to consider is the high season.
If you are travelling in the high season, which lasts from May to September, you are going to encounter many other visitors. Flåm is one of the busiest cruise ports in Norway, and there are cruise ships almost every day in the summer. As you can imagine, almost everyone on a cruise ship wants to do the Flåm Railway. If there’s a cruise ship with 3,000 people in, you can expect the train to be busy that day. That doesn’t even include visitors travelling through Flåm by coach. In 2019, there were 159 cruise ships between April and October, carrying 297,673 passengers.
If you have the flexibility, try to do the Flåm Railway either as the first thing in the morning or as the last thing in the evening. Most cruise ship passengers and tour groups go in the middle of the day.
You can check the cruise ship schedule here: https://www.aurlandhavn.no/ (select cruise and click on the year you are visiting – it only shows the current year).
Norway in a Nutshell vs. Doing it Yourself
Norway in a Nutshell
Norway in a Nutshell is a package of tickets for commuter transport in Norway. You customise your trip, pay for it, and then pick up a booklet of tickets at the train station before starting your trip. There is no guide – it is a self-guided tour. You also don’t do it with a group, but you will be travelling with many people doing the exact same tour.
Norway in a Nutshell provides you with the convenience of organising all the public transport for you.
Norway in a Nutshell is done in two ways: either a round trip from Bergen or as part of a Bergen – Oslo (or vice versa) journey.
The day trip from Bergen starts with a train to Voss, then a public bus at Gudvangen. At Gudvangen you board a two-hour ferry cruise on the fjords to Flåm. At Flåm, you take the Flåm Railway up to Myrdal, where you then board the train back to Bergen. The trip generally takes around 10 hours.
The Bergen – Oslo trip is similar, except at Myrdal instead of taking the train back to Bergen you take it to Oslo. If you’re doing the trip from Oslo to Bergen, you get off at Myrdal, take the train down to Flåm, the ferry to Gudvangen, the bus to Voss, and then the train to Bergen. The journey takes a little over 12 hours.
There is no right direction or way to do Norway in a Nutshell. You see the same things. The only suggestion I have is that the Bergen – Oslo trip is very long, and I’d recommend breaking it up with a night in Flåm.
Doing it Yourself
Doing it yourself simply means booking all the tickets individually. You do the exact same thing as the Norway in a Nutshell people; you ride the same public transport at the same time, and the Norway in a Nutshell people do not get priority or anything like that.
The only difference between the two is the convenience of booking all the tickets and working out the itinerary.
You do have to book well in advance. In the summer season, parts of the trip may be sold out – especially the Flåm Railway.
How it works
Boarding the train
If the train is leaving Flåm, you can typically start boarding the train 10-15 minutes before departure. If you are taking the train from Myrdal, sometimes you only have minutes.
Your ticket will either be free seating or assigned seating. Pay close attention to this – if you have free seating, make sure you don’t sit in someone else’s seat. They don’t put stickers on the actual seats that are reserved, so it can be tricky to work out. To know what’s a reserved seat, there’s an A4-sized sticker on the door you enter through. It says which seats are taken by groups. Pay attention to it, because if you sit where a group is supposed to sit, the trip leader will tell you to move. I’ve had to do it so many times!
From experience, the individual travellers sit towards the front of the train and the groups sit towards the back.
Information on board
Television screens are in each carriage providing images and general information about the train. The languages depend on who is in the carriage, and that’s another reason to make sure you sit in the right spot. For example, if you somehow end up in a seat reserved for a Chinese group, you will get all the information in Mandarin.
In the general seating area they have the information in German, Norwegian and English. There are speakers that announce the information, but they can be very quiet.
If you look up and down the carriage, there are cardboard boxes with maps you can take for free – you can also get them from the information centre in Flåm. It’s not always guaranteed that the maps will be onboard, so it’s best to get one beforehand.
The noise in the tunnels
There are some small windows on the train that can be opened (though half the time I find them stuck!), and it’s great if you want to take photos, but bad if you don’t like the screeching of the train. And who doesn’t? The sound can be pretty unbearable.
You also need to be very quick with the photo taking. A good portion of the journey takes place in tunnels – after all, there are 20 of them on a 55 minute trip. The television screen will announce a point of interest, what side it’s on, and then you have seconds to get the photo!
Highlights on the train
Flåm Church
After leaving the station in Flåm, you make your way through the valley and pass the original Flåm village. You will see farms with sheep and goats as well as the Flåm Church, which was built in the mid-17th century. If you are staying in Flåm, it’s easy to walk here – it takes around 40 minutes from the town centre.
The river that runs through the Flåm Valley. The red building to the right is the school.
You will be alongside the river for the first part of the journey. This was a famous salmon river, and you can still see all the platforms the fishermen built for optimal salmon fishing (again, you can walk back here on your own – they have signboards along the river with historical photos and information). The Flåm Railway crosses the river three times. Instead of building bridges for the train, the engineers opted to run the river through tunnels under the railway line.
At Berekvam station your train may stop and wait for the train coming in the other direction to pass. This is a great time to open a window and take a photo of your train against the landscape – you can also get a good photo of the train coming in the other direction.
Along the trip, you see traces in the mountainside left by avalanches and rockfalls that show the forces of nature. The landscape shows boulders that have been pushed down by glaciers, as well as rocks that have broken away from the mountainside. You can also see green pastures and historic traces of rock fences and cabins.
A popular photo opportunity is the hairpin road that the railway workers used. The old transport route has 21 hairpin turns. it’s also a great viewpoint to see how the Flåm valley is a classic U-shaped valley formed by glaciers, ending at the steep mountain where Myrdal is. This photo opportunity allows you to see the tunnels in the mountainside, the hairpin road, and then Myrdal station at the top. But you have to be quick – it’s only visible for around 20 seconds.
Some tunnels are open so you can see out the side. You’ll be able to see the tunnels where the train turns 180 degrees in the mountainside. It’s very impressive.
Towards Myrdal you pass Vatnahalsen Station – a popular stop for many people. It is a unique hotel with old cabin-style rooms and a cosy setting. It’s popular for those who want to take part in outdoor activities because that’s practically all there is to do there!
Kjosfossen has a drop of 225m (738 ft) and is being fed by the Reinunga Lake (Reinungavatnet), which you can see if you spend time at Vatnahalsen. In the winter, the waterfall freezes. It is strongest in spring and early summer when the snow is melting.
The train makes a brief stop at Kjosfossen waterfall and you have a chance to leave and take photos. The best way to handle this is to be ready ahead of time – this can be tricky if you haven’t done it before, but use the map they have on the train. They also announce that the train will be stopping soon.
Kjosfossen platform in winter
Kjosfossen frozen in the winter
It’s often a mad rush to the waterfall, so that’s why it’s good to be one of the first. Position yourself where you can see the ruined stone cabin – in the summer months they have a short performance there with a Huldra and you don’t want to miss it – many of the famous photos of Flåm are of the Huldra dancing with the waterfall.
Once the performance is over, I recommend heading straight back to the train. When they blow the whistle, it’s time to go. Just as everyone rushed off the train, everyone is going to rush back on. Again, it’s good to be first
Practical information
Is there Wifi on board?
There is no WiFi; for most of the trip you don’t even get a mobile signal.
Can I buy food on board?
No – there are no options for food. Buy some at Flåm or Myrdal before boarding.
Are there toilets?
Yes, but I would recommend going in Flåm or Myrdal instead of onboard. The toilets can be quite far from where you are setting and they sometimes may even be locked. Considering how short and scenic the train ride is, you don’t want to waste time pushing through crowds to find a toilet.
Are some seats backwards facing?
Yes. If the train is fully booked and you get a backwards facing seat, there’s little to do about it. If you notice spare seats after leaving, you can move – the staff don’t really mind.
Is it accessible?
To get on the train, the stairs are very narrow and steep, with a bit of a jump between the last stair and the ground.
Can I store luggage on board?
Many people staying overnight in Flåm (which I highly recommend) will bring luggage on the train. This is a slight nightmare, especially in summer when you’re not only pushing through crowds but fighting for very limited luggage space onboard. You have to get luggage in and out of the train as well, which is also a problem.
I recommend using Porter Service. It picks up your luggage at your hotel (in Bergen or Oslo) and then delivers it to your next hotel after Flåm (Bergen or Oslo). The luggage is left in the hotel’s luggage room for you to collect. The service is excellent and takes out a lot of the stress of moving your own luggage. Simply pack an overnight bag for Flåm and you don’t have to deal with the hassle of suitcases.
Can I get off at stations along the way?
Yes, but this has to be requested beforehand. The train doesn’t stop at every platform unless it knows someone wants to get off there. This is usually done when you book your ticket.
Which side is best?
Well both sides are best, but there are better sides at certain points on the trip. If you are riding the train from Flåm to Myrdal, the best views are on the right for the first third of the trip. For the middle third, the best views are on the left. Then it switches back to the right for the last third.
If you are fortunate enough to be on the Hurtigruten in the autumn/fall season travelling northbound, you’ll get to travel into Urke via the Hjørundfjord. Normally, in the summer months, Hurtigruten travels to Geiranger, the more famous of the two. That’s what makes Hjørundfjord even more special – it’s a bit of a secret, and Urke is way, way less crowded than Geiranger.
I visited Urke last October on the Hurtigruten (M/S Nordlys) with a group. I couldn’t go out and do the excursions, but I did get to take my group on a little walk around the village. I’ve put together a little overview of how the stop in Urke works and what you can see in this stunning village.
The Hjørundfjord is a branch of the Storfjorden, which leads into the Geirangerfjord. At 20km (12 miles) long, it is surrounded by the Sunnmøre Alps that rise close to 1000m (3000 ft) above sea level. At the end of the Hjørundfjord, it splits into the Norgangsfjord, which has the famous village of Øye at the end.
Visiting the fjord started to become popular in the late 19th century as a hiking and tourist destination, and the farmers worked to provide transport services for the tourists.
About Urke
Urke is a small settlement located midway on the Hjørundfjord. The village has a permanent population of between 40 and 50 residents, but many have holiday homes here. Urke is one of the towns experiencing depopulation; fifty years go the population was 350.
Urke & Hurtigruten
Shortly after departing Ålesund in the morning, you follow the same path the ship would take on its way to Geiranger. Shortly after entering the Storfjord, you turn off and start going into the Hjørundfjord. Sometimes, the expedition team will come out to talk a little about the Hjørfundfjord. In any case, you want to be outside for this!
When the ship arrives at Urke, it doesn’t dock at the harbour. Rather, it anchors out in the fjord (this alone is stunning). You access Urke by tender – those who have booked one of the excursions are prioritised. Once they have left, it’s your turn!
The ship is anchored in the fjord between 12:15pm and 3:45pm. Typically, the first non-excursion tender boat leaves around 1:15pm. The Hurtigruten staff tell you that you have to take the tender boat exactly one hour after you leave the ship. This isn’t strictly enforced but highly recommended – that way everyone doesn’t pile onto the tender boats at the end.
The tender boat is free, there are seats on the boat, and the trip across only a few minutes. There are steps getting onto the boat, and when you arrive at Urke the pier is floating and therefore a little uneven (there are railings to hold onto).
Once in Urke, there is usually a local standing there with some maps and walking routes. If not, it’s posted on a sign so just take a photo of it.
Urke Walking Path
I would’ve done one of the hikes if I was by myself, but I wanted to show my group around. You arrive at number 1 on the map, where there’s a cafe and toilet. I made a plan to head straight to the grocery store. You won’t exactly get lost; not only is the town tiny, but there are signboards everywhere. And you can see the ship at all times.
Some of the buildings, particularly the historic ones, have little signs on them with information in Norwegian, English and German.
Local power plant
This power plant is located by the waterfall. It was built by Tussa Kraft. It’s possible to walk further down and have a look inside the building. Sadly I didn’t take any photos!
The power station has a 3 km long pipeline that lies in the ground up to an intake at Myrsætra in Langsæterdalen. It is a working hydropower plant, producing electricity for approx. 2000 households. There is a millhouse close to the river.
Urke Landhandel
In the 1990s, the shop was at risk of being closed down because no one wanted to take over it. However, the locals didn’t like the thought of having to travel to Hellesylt for groceries. The locals decided to form a limited company and the store was bought by the company. The store was then refurbished thanks to the locals – all volunteer work.
You can buy almost anything here – petrol, groceries, medicine. There aren’t any souvenirs, but it’s worth going inside and having a look.
Stabburet / The Storage House
This belonged to the original farm property at Urke and was used for storing food. It was common for the servants to have bedrooms here as well. You’ll notice the building has been raised on stones – this is to stop animals from getting inside and eating all the food; the stairs were often separated from the doorstep by an opening of 30cm. It also kept the food nice and dry in case of rain and flooding. You will see nine storehouses around Urke.
Back to the ship
An hour in Urke is plenty of time, unless you plan on doing one of the hikes. The easiest hike is number three on the map.
To go onto the tender boat, just head back down to where you are dropped off. When it makes its way across from Hurtigruten, it’s time to go!
Hurtigruten Excursions
The most popular excursion is A Taste of Norway, which takes you on a scenic drive to the famous Hotel Union at Øye. Once there, you get to eat some local food. Sadly no one from my group took this excursion, so I know little about it. https://global.hurtigruten.com/excursions/norway/2f-a-taste-of-norway/
This is probably one of the most asked questions I get from my tour groups. It is asked when we are out on the Naeroyfjord Cruise or sailing into Geiranger with Hurtigruten. I get it, fjords are a tricky thing to define. That is, in part, because not all fjords look like fjords (Take the Trondheimsfjord, for example). Also, Norwegians define fjords differently than other parts of the world. I’ve put together a short overview of exactly what a fjord is, and it helps 🙂
Riding the Naeroyfjord on the very popular Gudvangen – Flåm fjord cruise. This photo was taken in May 2019.
What is a Fjord?
In short, a fjord is a deep, narrow and elongated sea or lake drain with steep land on three sides. There is always an opening towards the sea, often referred to as the mouth of the fjord.
The fjords in Western Norway are typical u-shaped undersea valleys with steep mountains.
Fjords are long, narrow inlets with steep sides or cliffs carved out by glaciers.
UNESCO added two Norwegian fjords to its World Heritage List. This is because of how well the fjords in Norway represent the fjord definition. The two fjords are the Geirangerfjord and the Naeroyfjord. You can see their page about the fjords here.
Sailing on the Oslofjord with DFDS. I need to take better photos of the Oslofjord!
Not all Fjords are Fjords
Norwegians use the term ‘fjord’ differently than we use it in English. In Norway, many lakes and bodies of water earn the title ‘fjord’. That’s because of how the word is defined.
The word fjord is one of the Norwegian words that has made it into the English language. It comes from the Old Norse word fjordr, which means “where one fares through”. The words fare (travel) and ferry come from the same origin as fjord. When it was added into the English language, it was written as fiord as many English words don’t use fj. However, the spelling fiord is only found in New Zealand today; everywhere else uses the spelling fjord.
In Norwegian, the word fjord references many bodies of water, inlets or channels. This is because throughout history Norwegians have used these bodies of water as a method of transport.
The Naeroyfjord in May 2019.
Representation of fjords around Norway
There are many examples of this in Eastern Norway, where the land was not carved out by glaciers. Still, though, the bodies of water provide a mode of transport. For example, the Oslofjord is not formed by glaciers (it is a rift valley) and is more of an inlet. Yet it is referred to as a fjord. If you ride the Bergen – Oslo Train, you pass the Tyrifjorden, which is a large freshwater lake just outside Oslo. Lake Mjøsa, near Lillehammer, is a fjord according to the locals – it even sometimes looks like a fjord!
Some rivers are also referred to as fjords, such as the Hallingdal River, which empties into Krøderfjorden, a freshwater lake.
In Northern Norway, there are many fjords. Some are not considered fjords by the English definition. Glaciers carved them out, but they do not have steep sides. This is because the glaciers were deep enough to cover even the high grounds when they were formed.
The Danes call many shallow lagoons fjords.
Don’t think this is a method of trickery, though. When you book a trip to see the ‘fjords of Norway’ we aren’t going to take you to a freshwater lake. You go to the ‘proper’ fjords of Western Norway 🙂
The village of Geiranger. You can almost see behind it how the glacier moved down the cliffside. Looking down at Geiranger and the Geirangerfjord from Dalsnibba viewpoint. This image was taken in August 2019.
Formation of Fjords
It is glaciers that form fjords. Glaciers are a large body of ice caused by accumulating, dense snow. Glaciers covered the Scandinavian peninsula. After each Ice Age, the glaciers melted slowly and shifted under their weight. As they would melt down to the sea, they would push rocks with them and carve the landscape.
A glacier cuts and forms a U-shaped valley by ice segregation and abrasion of the rock. I.e, ice breaking off and sliding down, breaking rock off as it goes. The glaciers are already sitting in valleys with a gently sloping floor; the melting of the glacier deepens the U-shaped valley.
Leaving Geiranger on the Geiranger – Hellesylt ferry (the best and cheapest way to see the fjord). This image was taken in July 2019.
As the glaciers melt, the Earth’s crust rebounds. The glaciers are heavy and weigh down the earth. When the glacier melts, the land can rise. In fact, Scandinavia is rising. In some parts of Scandinavia, the land is rising faster than the sea is rising.
The Hardangerfjord, the second-longest fjord in Norway. This image was taken from Steinstø Fruit Farm in May 2019.
How Deep are the Fjords?
Sometimes, you can look at the mountains on either side of the fjord to get a sense of depth. Often, the depth of the fjord is the same as the hight of the mountains. This is not true in all cases, especially the smaller fjords. For larger fjords, it gives an indication.
The mouth of the fjord is often the shallowest part, and it’s where we find a lot of gravel and sand. Glaciers pushed the gravel here. The shallow parts are what makes the fjords calm; very very seldom will you find rough water on the fjords. For this reason, fjords are often natural harbours. That said, the entrance to the fjord is also where you find some extreme currents and saltwater rapids. For example, Saltstraumen near Bodø has the world’s strongest tidal current.
The fjords are typically deeper than the sea they connect to.
The Sognefjord, the longest fjord in Norway and second longest in the world. It is as deep as 1300m (4,265ft) below sea level.
The famous ‘Trollfjord’ at the Lofoten Islands. I took this photo when I was on Hurtigruten in September 2019 – the ship goes into the fjord and does a little spin.
Are Fjords Saltwater or Seawater?
In short, they are both. Saltwater comes in from the sea. Freshwater comes from the connecting rivers and waterfalls, which also catch the melting snow every year.
Skerries in the Lofoten Islands. This photo was taken in February 2019 – my first trip on M/S Trollfjord!
What is a Skerry?
A skerry is a small rock found in the sea. It is one of the Norwegian words that has made it into the English language – skerry comes from the Old Norse word sker.
Skerries are most commonly found at the outlet of the fjords, or where the fjords join the sea. In many cases, they are boulders that the glaciers have pushed out as they have melted.
Skerries line Norway’s coastline, particularly in the west. The skerries lie parallel to the coast, providing a safe channel for ships. It’s possible to travel in a protected passage along almost the entire coast of Norway, from Stavanger to North Cape (1601km / 995 miles). If you travel on Hurtigruten, you see these protected passages up close.
The Flåm Valley seen from the Flåm Railway
Fjord Valleys
Travelling around Norway, you’ll notice that at the ends of fjords are often small, flat patches of land where villages have formed. Fjord-valleys are the continuation of fjords on land. They often end abruptly at steep cliffs. An excellent example of this is the Flåm Valley, which you’ll see if you take the Flåm Railway. If you’re in Hardanger, the Måbø Valley is also a great example.
You’ll see that there are many farms along the fjords. The most arable land in Norway is along the fjords. The water is not freezing cold thanks to the Gulf Stream drifting in from the sea.
A word you may see in Norway is eid – it’s often in placenames. An eid is land between a lake a fjord. When the ice was stable during a long period of melting, the land blocks the lake from emptying into the fjord. Many villages are on these plots of land, such as Eidfjord or Nordfjordeid. Eidfjord sits between the Eidfjord Lake and the Eidfjord branch of the Hardangerfjord.
Hurtigruten at the Geirangerfjord
See the Fjords of Norway
There are many ways to see the fjords here in Norway. The best place to start is in Bergen. Bergen is the gateway to the fjords. From here you can take many day trips out to see the fjords depending on your budget, or you can rent a car and go see them yourself.
I have a whole page dedicated to the fjords of Norway, which you can read here. I’ve provided an overview of each ‘must-see’ fjord in Norway, so you can plan your trip accordingly.
Bergen has a huge number of restaurants with many different cuisines, and it can be a little daunting to try and figure out where to eat. If your goal is to try traditional Norwegian food, it can be tricky trying to figure out what ‘pinnekjøtt’ or ‘prinsefisk’ is.
I’m not a huge fan of reviewing restaurants, firstly because it is completely subjective and secondly it’s because there are already plenty of reviews online. When I started building “The Hidden North”, I didn’t want to tell people what’s good or bad; I wanted to put together a travel guide so people could make up their own mind.
So, for this restaurant guide I’ve categorised restaurants by cuisine – whether you be looking for traditional Norwegian food, Japanese, vegetarian, cheap eats, etc. I’ve also included my experiences at the restaurant. This list is forever growing, so it’s best to bookmark it and check just before you come.
For convenience, I’ve only included restaurants in the inner city centre.
Norwegian food is a surprisingly big term; it means seafood, locally sourced food, food from the farms, and traditional food.
What to try in Bergen:
In Bergen, persetorsk is unique and local. You can find it in Bryggen Tracteursted, Bryggeloftet (winter season), Cornelius (seasonal), and Fjellskål. The tourist office has a good overview of persetork (click here).
Bergen Fish Soup is a must. it is creamy, chowder-like soup. My favourite fish soup is at Bryggeloftet, though Fish Me also does a good fish soup. Click hereto learn more about Bergen Fish Soup.
Bare is located within the Bergen Børs Hotel and received a Michelin Star in 2020 for its use of organise local produce. The menu changes according to the season, and you can view the current menu online. It’s typically a mix of seafood and meat dishes from Western Norway. Reservations are necessary.
Bark is a brand-new restaurant and wine bar that takes its inspiration from modern Nordic cooking. It’s a little out of the way, but is well worth the walk!
Bjerck is a new restaurant in Bergen with a mostly Norwegian menu, though there are some international dishes as well. They have an international lunch menu (chicken salad, summer salad, fish and chips, shrimps, burgers) and a more Norwegian dinner menu (prinsefisk, chicken breast, entrecote, burgers).
Whenever someone visits me in Bergen, this is where I take them. It has a good overview of traditional Norwegian food, and that makes it a safe bet for anyone looking to discover Norwegian flavours. Menu includes Bergen fish soup, scallops, kveite, mountain trout, wolffish, bacalao, beef, reindeer, lamb, and deer. The menu is seasonal, so it does change. There’s a vegan bacalao and vegan burger as well.
Bryggen Tracteursted is located inside the old schøtstuene, or kitchen and assembly room, for the Hanseatics, so you get an authentic 18th century experience here. The menu is traditional Norwegian. The tapas include an extensive list of Norwegian seafood (halibut, sardines, salmon, etc) and meat (lamb, whale, reindeer, etc). The a la carte menu has prinsefisk, plukkfisk, fried trout, reindeer and beef
Cornelius
Tasting Menu / 1145 NOK pp (includes boat transfer) ($$$) Vestrepollsveien 109
Cornelius is a full seafood experience. You take a boat from near Bryggen at 6pm, ride 25 minutes to the restaurant, and then take the boat back at 10:30pm. When there, you get a set five-course menu. This restaurant is quite popular with visitors, and I can see why! The menu is inspired by the weather of that particular day, and the items change daily depending on the raw materials. It usually consists of shellfish for an appetiser, fish for the main course, and then a dessert.
Enhjørningen
A la carte $$$ (350+ NOK for a main course) Enhjørningsgården 29
Enhjørningen (The Unicorn) is a seafood restaurant located on Bredsgården, the most authentic alley left at Bryggen. You can sit in the old Hanseatic buildings and eat traditional Norwegian seafood! Items include whale, clipfish, fish soup, mussels, reindeer steak, bacalao, and then Norwegian cheeses for dessert.
Fjellskål
A la carte $$ (you can pay 100 NOK or 1500 NOK for a meal here!) Strandkaien 3 Vegan Menu
Fjellskål is located in the Bergen Fish Market (under the tourist information centre), and it has a great range of different types of seafood and meat dishes at varying prices, so it really is for everyone. The seafood is picked fresh from the market, so you can’t go wrong here. Just some of the items are fish soup, 4 types of caviar, various types of sashimi, shrimp, crab (various types), oysters, various types of fish including salmon and cod, whale, fish and chips, pasta, burgers. Vegan menu has the beyond burger and vegan pasta.
Lysverket
1, 2, 3 courses ($$$) Rasmus Meyers Alle 9 (entry through KODE 4)
Lysverket was shortlisted on the Michelin Guide in 2020, and it is a restaurant I’ve heard often amongst visitors. It’s located near the art galleries on Byparken. The set menu includes scallops, turbot, cow, and dessert. Sturgeon caviar and Norwegian cheeses can be added to the menu.
Pingvinen is a local restaurant/pub known for its traditional meals and very laid back setting. Meals include meatballs, fish, stew, and four other dishes that change daily. If you visit around christmas, they serve traditional Christmas dishes. On Thursdays they serve raspeballer.
Restaurant Opus 16 is located within the Opus XVI hotel, practically across the street from the fish market. Mains include cod, lamb, halibut, mussels and langoustines. This restaurant also a very popular afternoon tea on Saturdays from 12pm – 5pm.
Restaurant 1877
Tasting Menu / 725-845 NOK pp ($$$) Located inside the old meat market at Vetrlidsallmenningen 2
Restaurant 1877 is located inside the old meat market near Bryggen (the triangular-roofed brick building). The menu is seasonal and locally sourced and typically includes seafood, meat, and dessert.
Frescohallen is located in the beautiful historic stock exchange. The restaurant serves various seafood dishes but is also known for its cocktail menu.
To Kokker
Four, five, six course menu ($$$) Enhjørningsgården 29
To Kokker is owned by the same group as Enhjørningen, so the menus are a little similar. The big difference is that To Kokker (the two chefs in English) is a set menu, whereas Enhjørningen is a la carte. Items on the menu include kveite, deer steak, and whale.
Located at the Radisson Blu Hotel on Bryggen, 26 North focuses on Nordic food traditions. They have ‘Boards from the Fjords’, which is an overview of different seasonal flavours from the nearby fjords. At the time of writing, this includes moose sliders, Nordic taco (with lefse), Arctic reindeer tartar or a mixing board. Mains include a burger, lamb, venison, steak, cod, Nordic pasta, and the catch of the day.
Japanese
Japanese is very popular in Bergen, probably because of the fresh seafood we can take advantage of. A well-known fun fact is that the Norwegian invented salmon sushi, so why not try some here? Every time my husband and I plan to go out to dinner, he always insists on Japanese as the sushi tastes so fresh!
Nama Japanese Fusion
Tasting menu ($) or a la carte ($$) Lodin Lepps gate 2B
Nama was the first sushi restaurant to open up in Bergen, and the restaurant mixes Japanese recipes with local ingredients. Tasting menus are available, you can opt for the a la carte menu. Items include Wagyu steak, tempura, lobster, miso soup, tuna tartar, sea bass, black cod, chicken, king crab cake, monkfish, and an extensive sushi bar. The restaurant even has a sushi course! Takeaway is also available (see website for details).
Sumo is our go-to sushi restaurant. The menu is Asian fusion and the sushi list is extensive and fresh. There are plenty of small dishes as well as poke bowls. Mains include red curry, pad thai, sticky pork, ushi burger, Chicken satay, bao buns, dirty maki, and so much more. It’s not just Japanese food but a huge mix of different types of Asian food, but we come here for the sushi.
Pubs
Not everyone wants a fine dining experience; some of us just want to have a good, safe, tasty and filling pub meal in a really laid-back setting. I hear you – I always try to get to a pub when I travel somewhere. Here are some of Bergen’s pubs.
Bryggeriet Restaurant and Microbrewery
$ – $$ Torget 2 (the large white building on the fish market square)
Located just off the fish market, Bryggeriet is a popular gastropub with the locals. The menu focuses on seafood and meat dishes that are Norwegian-inspired, and there’s an excellent selection of beer from the microbrewery. They’ve got burgers, fish and chips, cod, mussels, beef tenderloin, chicken breast, pork, quinoa salad and stuffed eggplant. The microbrewery was the first to be established in Bergen and is 135 years old.
Located on Bryggen, Madam Felle is one of the spots where you see everyone sitting outside having a beer on a warm summer day. The menu includes snacks (nachos, anyone?), caesar salad (veggie and chicken), various sandwiches (smoked salmon, shrimp, blt, chicken curry, steak), quesadillas, hamburgers, ribs, steak, and scampi. check the website for their regular concerts.
Italian
Norwegians love Italian food – after all, we are the largest eaters of pizza per capita in the world! That’s mostly frozen pizza, but until someone opens a frozen pizza restaurant you’ll have to opt for some fresh pizza. I have heard from some Italians that the Italian restaurants in Bergen are better than they are in Italy, so don’t shy away from trying Italian food in Norway.
Olivia
$ – $$ Torget 3 (in the big white building on the fish market square)
Olivia is a really popular Italian restaurant chain throughout Norway, and this is Bergen’s Olivia right here on the fish market. This Olivia is inspired by Sicilian food, and the menu includes a large list of pizzas, pastas, steak, salmon, etc.
Villani is my favourite restaurant! The pizzas here are divine. The chefs and ingredients come from Italy, and the wine menu is one of the best in the country. If pizza isn’t your thing, they have wonderful pasta and salad dishes too.
Villa Blanca is a popular pizza restaurant amongst the locals (I hear about it a lot!). The menu includes a huge list of pizzas, as well as some meaty mains.
International Cuisine
Norway didn’t really experience international cuisine until quite recently (the first wave of immigrants occurred in the 1970s) and since then international restaurants have popped up all across the country. Bergen is not lacking in a range of different cuisines. If you are budget conscious, the international restaurants are typically cheaper than the Norwegian restaurants, and the food is just as good. Here are some of them below!
Brasilia
Brasilia Experience 460 NOK / Veggie 290 NOK Olav Kyrres Gate 39
Brasilia is a Brazilian restaurant with buffets (meat or vegetarian), and there is an extensive list of cocktails and other types of drinks. You choose your side dishes from the buffet, and then they serve you 12(!) types of meats. Brasilia is popular with the locals!
Horn of Africa is an African restaurant with a focus on Ethiopian cuisine. Meals include shiro (ground chickpeas), tibs chilli, beef stew, chicken stew, shreds of lamb, or you can opt for a selection of four different meat or vegetarian dishes for 459 NOK for two people. It’s one of the top rated restaurants in Bergen (no. 3 on TripAdvisor), so it’s certainly worth a go!
Røyk is inspired by American BBQ and has a huge selection of different meats, burgers, and beer.
Small eats
This list is comprised of cafes and eateries that are smaller in size and quicker than restaurants. They are perfect if you are budget conscious, don’t want to spend a night out at a restaurant, or are looking for lunch somewhere quick.
Daily Pot
$-$$ Vaskerelven 21 Vegan Menu Note: Lunch only (closes 6pm)
Daily Pot is a healthy cafe with a wide selection of vegan options, as well as a couple meat options. They have a list of soups, sandwiches, ‘power bowls’ and cakes.
Trekroneren has become the most iconic place in Bergen for a meal. The only option? Hot dogs! The hot dog stand has been here since 1946 and is regarded as one of the best places to eat in Bergen.
