history oslo

  • Castle, Fortress, Palace, Prison: A Self-Guided Walk Around Akershus Fortress

    Castle, Fortress, Palace, Prison: A Self-Guided Walk Around Akershus Fortress

    Dominating the Oslofjord skyline, Akershus Fortress is a mixture of medieval castle, military fortress, Renaissance palace, and prison. The fortress, as you can see, has had many different purposes over the years. Today it is still an active military base but is commonly used as a park and museum site. 

    The castle was completed some time around 1300 by King Haakon V of Norway, who moved the capital from Bergen to Oslo and built himself a castle. He used the castle as a residential palace and it was significant in establishing Oslo as the capital.

    After Norway became part of Denmark, the castle became more of a military fortification. 

    Following the Great Fire of 1624, King Christian IV made the decision to move the entire city. He ordered the city be moved closer to Akershus Fortress, and the fortress was remodelled to look like a Renaissance Castle.

    Akershus has successfully survived all sieges, mostly done by the Swedes. 

    For a few hundred years, Akershus was also the site of the prison that became known as The Slavery as you could rent out prisoners for the day.

    This walk will take you through the history of Akershus Fortress and show you all the different purposes the fortress has had. 

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    The online guide is a summarised version of the downloadable guide. Some points of interest are only included in the downloadable guide. 

    The walk: Akershus Fortress

    Information Centre

    This walk begins at the visitor centre, which is located just within the fortress walls. The building is from 1774 and was the old artillery building.

    Inside you can buy books, get a map, and purchase tickets for the museums. 

    The Carp Pond

    Located across from the Visitor Centre

    This small pond that we have today is from a much larger pond that used to be here. The stream came from Christiania Square and ran through this pond and down to Munk’s pond. It was divided into two when the foundations of the northern curtain wall were laid out in 1592. The other part served as a moat outside the wall.

    The fortress guide says that carp are kept there in the summer, but when I visited in November 2020 the pond looked completely filled in, and a stage was built in front. 

    Akershus National Penitentiary, or "The Slavery"

    Multiple buildings in this courtyard are from the prison. 

    When Oslo (then called Christiania) got renewed status as the capital in 1814, the fortress function changed. The outer parts were released as building plots for the public. The ramparts became a place for recreation.

    The prison has been here since the 17th century, when King Frederik III said that all convicted of “petty larceny” should work on a chain group in Akershus, and eventually the prison got the nickname ‘The Slavery’ as prisoners could be rented out for the day. They were set to all kinds of public works and some were even hired out to private parties.

    In 1842 there were as many as 530 prisoners here, all male. Amongst the inmates were the famous individuals such as Gjest Baardsen and Ole Hoiland. The world ‘slavery’ was abolished in 1850. 

    The Institution was converted into a National Penitentiary in 1902 and from 1937 it was a detention facility. During World War II, it was a German military prison. Briefly after the war the building was a prison for traitors, and it finally closed in 1950. 

    Today the buildings are used as office buildings for the military and fortress staff. 

    In the second photo you can see the prison chapel (behind the yellow buildings). It was built in 1896 and had tuition rooms and a library inside for the prisoners. 

    Drawbridge & Moat, Cannons

    This bridge and gate is from 1653, though there has been an opening here since 1620. The drawbridge was rebuilt in the mid-19th century and a winch system was added (one of the winches is preserved in the northern part), but in 1920 the moat was filled in when the road below was completed. You can walk out onto the bridge today and pretend the road is the old moat!

    In this large courtyard you’ll see some cannons. These cannons were to keep the prisoners in line, and they were loaded with grapeshot.

    The Guardhouse

    The guardhouse is from 1724 and has the Norwegian coat-of-arms above the front door. The building was used as prison facilities. Today the building is used as a guardhouse and museum for His Majesty the King’s Guard.

    The Guardhouse has been used by the state in a modern context since 1947, when King Haakon VII used Akershus as a banquet hall in celebration of his birthday. 

    The Barracks

    This area was originally a herb garden – it is shown as such in the oldest image of Akershus Fortress from the 1580s. The area eventually got a bathhouse, rabbit cage, and enclosure for deer. The barracks were built in 1778 and weren’t barracks for the military long; in 1787 the first prisoners moved into the northern wing. 

    Prince Carl's Bastion

    We are moving back in time – here is Prince Carl’s Bastion, which was completed in the 17th century. There was a drawbridge and moat here; today it can only be seen from the outside of the fortress walls. 

    The Virgin's Tower

    The Virgin’s Tower is one of the few original elements left – it was constructed around 1300 and is one of the many strong towers that used to surround the fortress. The tower used to be deeper and higher, but has changed over the years. 

    Munk's Tower

    Munk’s Tower is from 1559. It is believed that the water tower used to be here, and it provided drinking water to those at the castle. 

    The name comes from Christian Munk, who had the tower built into its present form. Christian Munk was a Danish sheriff and governor who settled in Norway and saw major renovations of Norway’s fortifications. Throughout the 1560s he ruled over the regions Hamar and Akerhus while residing at Akershus. 

    For a while, in the 19th century, the royal regalia was kept in the tower’s top floor. 

    Castle Contrasts & the Southern Wing

    The Southern Wing (to the right of the image) is one of the oldest parts of the castle. It dates from 1300 and was the original main entrance of the castle, nicknamed ‘the dark passage’. In the passage are remains of four fortified gates. 

    The area was renovated in the 16th century when a chapel was built in the area, and an extra floor (see the large building to the left) was added to make room for the chancery of the Akershus governorship. 

    When Christian IV ruled over Denmark and Norway, the area was converted into opulent apartments for the royal couple. The top floor is now a large room called Christian IV’s hall, and it functions as the castle’s reception room. 

    The Chancery Wing

    Looking at the walls, you can see all the different periods of construction of the fortress. The bottom, grey part is the original castle and has been broken out of the bedrock. The big medieval bricks come next; they are known as the monks tiles. At the top, you see the parts from the 17th century that were added during Christian IV’s building operations. 

    The bit that sticks out was the lavatory facilities. 

    The Romerike Wing

    The Romerike Wing is the building sticking out to the left. The lower part of the building was the storeroom with two fortified gates for taking in supplies. It was rebuilt in 1633 as the royal kitchen, while the second floor was used as living quarters for the viceroy. Between 1841 and 1845 the poet Henrik Wergeland had an office on the ground floor. At the time he was working as the national archivist. 

    Knut's Tower

    You’ll now go through two stone archways. It’s a bit of an up-hill climb. 

    The tower you’ll pass as you go along the path is Knut’s Tower, one of the original parts of the medieval fortress. The tower used to be called the Canons Tower as it was constructed as a crossfire tower. For a long time, however, it was used to keep prisoners. 

    In 1641 the tower underwent changes as it was built into a horse-powered mill.

    The name is a reference to the knight Knut Alvssøn, who was said to have lain unburied in the tower for 12 years after being killed by Henrik Krummerdike in 1502.

    Execution Ground

    This ground is the site used for the execution of members of Norway’s resistance movement. On the 9th and 10th of February, and the 17th of March, 1945, Norwegians were executed here by the Nazis.

    A memorial was unveiled by Haakon VII on 8 May 1949. 

    Norwegian Resistance Museum

    The building was originally the Double Battery and is from the late 17th century. It has housed Norway’s Resistance Museum since 1967. The museum is a fantastic insight into what the war was like in Norway, and the collection was arranged by ex-military and members of the Norwegian resistance. 

    Skarpenord's Powder Magazine

    This huge building was built to be bomb-proof in the late 17th century. it has three ornamental sandstones from the viceroy Hannibal Sehested’s never completed fortress gave. The sandstone comes from a nearby quarry. 

    Visitor Centre

    You have arrived back at the visitor centre! I hope you enjoyed this walk around Akershus Fortress. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    My Akershus walk begins close to the end point for the Oslo City Centre self-guided walking tour, so you can consider doing that walk first. 

  • The History of Oslo

    The history of Oslo is truly fascinating. While today the city is very modern and there may seem like there are few traces of its beginnings, there are hints of history everywhere.

    Here’s my summarised history of Oslo!

    Humble Beginnings

    Oslo is one of the oldest places in Norway; the area around the Oslofjord has been inhabited since the last ice age due to its rich agricultural land. The oldest settlements date back to the Stone Age and the Bronze Age. Historically the area was called Viken, which means ‘the bay’.

    It’s believed that the Oslofjord was an important place for the Vikings; this is mostly because three Viking ships have been found in the area. These are now on display at the Viking Ship Museum. The first church, St. Clements Church (Klemenskirken), was built in Oslo around the year 1000. Sadly the church is no more; its ruins can be seen in the Middelalderparken just outside the city centre.

    File:Medieval Oslo map.jpg
    Medieval Oslo. Akershus is on the bottom left. The hilly area to the right is Ekeberg.

    Oslo wasn’t officially founded until 1049. It was founded by King Harald HardrÃ¥de (Harald Hardruler), but it was his son, Olav Kyrre (Olav the Peaceful, who also founded Bergen), who set up a cathedral and a bishopric. Oslo wasn’t where it is today; rather it was founded closer to the region around Ekeberg and where the Barcode is today (the region called Gamle Oslo (Old Oslo) highlights this).

    Mariakirken Oslo

    Throughout the 12th century, cathedrals and a cathedral school were built around the city. This includes Mariakirken, which would’ve looked similar to the church in Bergen. Sadly, like St. Clements, only its ruins remain.

    At the time it was Trondheim that was the capital of Norway. In 1219, the capital moved to Bergen. It wasn’t until 1299 that Oslo got its title as the Capital of Norway.

    The Capital of Norway

    In 1299, King HÃ¥kon V decided to move from Bergen to Oslo, and with that, the capital moved. He cemented the city’s status as the capital when he had the Akershus Fortress built in 1299.

    Everything changed in 1350 when the Black Plague came to Oslo. Around half of the town’s population passed away, and the churches began to lose income. This is around the time that the Hanseatic merchants came in to take over trade, and the churches fell into ruins.

    The entire country had lost a lot during the Plague, and because of that, it was forced into a Danish union.

    Danish Union, Fires, and Kristiania

    The Kalmar Union put the three Scandinavian countries together in 1380, and during this time trade in Oslo was dominated by Hanseatic merchants and the town had little going on.

    In 1536, the Danish and Norwegian union became a formal coalition, and the capital proper was now Copenhagen – though Oslo remained a symbolic capital. Due to the Reformation, in which Norway converted from Catholic to Lutheran, many of the old churches (most of which were already deteriorated) were destroyed by the Danes to make way for Lutheran churches. There are many ruins of churches in Gamle Oslo (the old town) today.

    In 1624, the city changed forever. A massive fire burned for three days, destroying most of the city as it was built in timber. After the fire, King Christian IV of Denmark decided that, rather than rebuilt the old city, he was going to move it and build a whole new city and name it after himself. So, he did. And so Kristiania was born. At the time, it was spelt Christiania, but from 1877 it was spelt Kristiania.

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    A statue of Christian IV pointing to where he wants Christiania

    Inspired by contemporary city planning, Kristiania was laid out in a grid close to Akershus Castle. The architecture of the time was Renaissance, and there are glimpses of this style still visible in the old centre of Kristiania. Akershus Fortress was also modernised and converted into a renaissance castle by Christian IV. All citizens and shops were strongly encouraged to move their businesses and homes to the new city, and they did. Around this time, the lower classes started to settle a little out of the city, near Vaterland and Grønland near the Old Oslo area.

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    Oslo’s first town hall from 1641

    The area of Oslo today called Kvadraturen (the quadrature) is where King Christian IV moved the town. The oldest buildings in Oslo can be found here, including Kristiania’s first town hall and the oldest restaurant, Cafe Engebret.

    It wasn’t until the 18th century that Kristiania started to see true growth when the (constant) wars between Denmark and Sweden boosted the town as a major shipbuilding and trading port.

    File:Christiania Norway in 1814 by MK Tholstrup.jpg
    Christiania in 1814. The fortress is visible out on the peninsula.

    19th Century Capital & Growth

    In 1814, when Norway left the Danish union and was forced into a personal union with Sweden, Kristiania was re-instated as the capital. The 19th century was a period of massive growth for Kristiania; with its status back, several state institutions were established including the Bank of Norway (1828), the Royal Palace (1848) and the Storting (1866). In 1859, many of the surrounding areas were incorporated into Kristiania – including Old Oslo, which at the time was just called Oslo.

    Karl Johans Gate 1890

    The population increased dramatically in the 19th century – from 10,000 in 1814 to 230,000 in 1900. Finally, Kristiania overtook Bergen in terms of population. There was a spectacular building boom during the end of the 19th century, and many new apartments were built around the city centre.

    File:Hjula Veveri JWC.240.jpg
    Akerselva 19th century

    Industry also rose dramatically in the 19th century, especially along the Aker River (Akerselva). Various industries were here, but they were primarily timber and fabrics. This is due to the number of waterfalls on the river, which gave power to numerous industry companies in Oslo.

    File:Stortorvet 7, Stortorvet 8 med Kaffistova, Karl Johans gate 15, 1926, Anders Beer Wilse, Oslo Museum, OB.Y2962.jpg
    Downtown Oslo (Stortorvet) in 1926

    Oslo returns

    The city and municipality used the name Kristiania until 1 January 1925, when the name was changed back to Oslo. The reason the name was changed is because, after Norway became completely independent in 1905, the locals thought it was inappropriate to have the capital named after a Danish king.

    World War II

    During the Second World War, Oslo (like the rest of Norway) was occupied by German forces. Oslo was one of the first cities in Norway to be occupied; on 9 April 1940 the German ships made their way down the Oslofjord, and while the fortress Oscarsborg was able to sink a major warship and delay the occupation long enough for the King and government to escape, the city was occupied later that day.

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    Parliament with a German sign & Nazi flag flying

    During the war, the main headquarters for the Germans was Victoria Terrasse, a beautiful building close to the Royal Palace. It was in this building that officers held the interrogation centre for all prisoners in Oslo, and the place became synonymous with torture and abuse. On occasion, prisoners jumped out of windows to their death while waiting to be interrogated. Allied bombers tried to destroy it twice, but missed and hit civilian targets.

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    Karl Johans Gate

    All ships carrying Jews left for mainland Europe from the Oslofjord, and the German Army executed members of the Norwegian resistance groups at Akershus Fortress. After the war, eight Norwegian traitors who had been tried for war crimes were executed at the fortress, including Vidkun Quisling.

    Modern Oslo

    Oslo 1971

    After the war, Oslo’s City Hall was finished in an area that had previously been a slum. This was also where Aker Brygge was revitalised between 1982 and 1998 and built up as a modern suburb.

    Oslo’s postwar absorption of surrounding towns and suburbs gives us the sprawling city we see today. However, despite this growth, it wasn’t until the discovery of the Ekofisk oil field on Norway’s Continental shelf, that the economy of Oslo changed for good. Oslo transformed into one of the world’s wealthiest and liveable cities.

    Oslo is the most ethnically diverse city in Norway, with 40% of the population first or second-generation immigrant.

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    Terrorist attack 2011

    In 2011, Oslo was hit by a terrorist attack carried out by a right-wing extremist. A bomb was detonated in the Government quarter, damaging several buildings including the building that houses the Office of the Prime Minister. Eight people were killed in the attack. The terrorist then disguised as a police officer and killed 69 Labour party-affiliated activists on the island Utøya, about 45 minutes out of the city.

    Resources on the History of Oslo

    http://www.visitoslo.com