Walking Guides

  • Røros, Walking Guides

    A Self-Guided Walk through Røros

    A Self-Guided Walk through Røros

    When the husband and I went on our road-trip back in September 2020, this was one of the articles I knew I was going to write. Røros has always fascinated me; not just because it’s so picturesque but also due to its UNESCO World Heritage status as a historic mining town. I couldn’t find a good self-guided walking tour online, so I decided to make my own when I was there. 

    Before I start, I will say that there are a couple different options for doing a walk in Røros. Firstly, most of the buildings have QR codes on them that link to a summary of the location. Secondly, and most importantly, there are guided tours of Røros. I’d recommend hiring a guide (who lives there and knows the town inside and out) and seeing Røros that way. I’ve designed my guide more as an overview of what to expect in Røros. You can follow the path, of course, but the best info comes from a guide (after all, I do walking tours of Bergen!). This isn’t sponsored or anything; I just prefer guided tours.

    Anyway, here’s my self-guided walking tour of Røros. 

    Røros Travel Guide

    In this article...

    The Fv30 Highway

    You can reach Røros by taking the Fv30 from near Trondheim. You can find my guide to the Fv30 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv30 Highway
    Røros Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    I offer downloadable versions of my self-guided walks on my online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Røros Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Start: Smeltehytta Museum

    The Smeltahytta Museum is a great introduction to the mining and smelting history of Røros. Outside is a large carpark, so park the car and lets begin the walk!

    Smeltehytta Museum Guide

    The Sintering Shed

    The land was originally used for storing deposits of gravel, but in the 1890s a small smeltery was constructed to smelt silica ore. In Norwegian, the word is ‘sintring’ – hence the name of the shed. 

    Røros Kobberverk experimented with smelting silica in order to improve production efforts.

    Today the building is a storage shed.

    You’ll see an information board to the left of the building with some info on the Røros UNESCO region. 

    Hytteklokka

    Hytteklokka, or the Smelting Bell (in Norwegian klokk = bell. It can be confusing!) was the shift clock for workers in the smelter. Because the smelter had to be active 24.7, the workers worked in shifts. The bell was rung every time a shift was over and a new one began. The original bell tower was much taller; it was replaced in the 1890s. 

    Røros Church

    How beautiful is this church? You can’t miss it; it’s visible from almost anywhere in town.

    Røros Church was built between 1780 and 1784. It was funded by Røros Kobberverk and the cost of the church was the equivalent of 450 miners’ yearly salaries! It’s crazy to also know that the company’s turnover was enough to build 3-4 buildings at that cost per year.

    To the locals, Røros Church is known as ‘Bergstadens Ziir’. Bergstaden is a name for a mining town, and Ziir means ‘pride’. So it translates to “the pride of the mining town”.

    On the tower of the church you can see the logo for Røros Kobberverks; it’s one of few churches in Norway to display the logo of its main sponsor on the exterior. 

    If you ever manage to get lost in Røros (that alone is a feat!), you can always see the church. 

    Kjerkegata

    Historically there are two main streets in Røros, and this is one of them. We’ll be on the other one soon.

    Kjerkgata is traditionally a business street, and almost every property was a farm (gård or gaard), trading house, and home. 

    Source 1

    Trygstad Bakery

    Every small town has a bakery, and Røros has many. Trygstad Bakery is one of the most historic.

    The name is from Edvard Trygstad, who moved to Røros when he was 22 years old (1899). He worked at another bakery for a while, but in 1906 he started his own bakery. It quickly became known as having good quality, and in 1916 he bought the current building. 

    Today the bakery is owned by his descendants. 

    The bakery was featured in an episode of Alt for Norge, a competition series where Norwegian-Americans come to Norway to learn about their family. 

    Trygstad Bakery is one of the oldest businesses in Røros. We had lunch and then breakfast here, and I can confirm it is amazing – some of the best coffee I’ve ever had! It’s a very cramped and overcrowded bakery, but it’s part of the charm, right?

    Bakery Website

    Bergmannsgata

    Welcome to the second main street in Røros! The name ‘Bergmannsgata’ comes from the professional title of a miner: Bergmann. The current layout here is from the 17th century, shortly after the founding of Røros. 

    Many of the houses here have wide openings on the lower floor: this was for the animals. Behind the house would be a stable with farm animals; this was necessary to surviving in Røros. A typical house had 4-6 cows. Today there are no cows, but some houses still have horses. 

    Source 1

    Rasmusgården

    This house is a great example of a miners home + working farm. It was likely built at the end of the 17th century; the house hasn’t changed since the early 1800s but the farmhouse out the back is likely the same as it was in the 1680s! Today this is regarded as one of the oldest farm buildings in Røros.

    The property is named after Olaf Rasmus Vintervold, who was a miner. 

    A lot of animals have lived here. In a census from 1865 there was 1 horse, 5 cows and 6 sheep living here. In the title deed from 1748, the property had 1 ox, 3 cows, 1 calf, 4 goats, 3 chickens, 3 sheep and 2 lambs – all on this tiny property!

    Rasmusgarden was also a travellers stables. When the horses arrived in winter, it was required that they would have a stable and the people would have a place to stay. Many houses doubled as these travellers stables (property for both horse and man). 

    Today the property is owned by the Norwegian Preservation for Ancient Monuments (Fortidsminneforeningen) and can be rented out if you want to spent the night there. 

    Source 1 | Source 2 | Source 3

    Finnegården

    Finnegården is one of the only houses with an intact farm structure. Most of the outbuildings are preserved, to some extent, in their original character.

    The interiors of this house are incredibly well preserved. The wallpaper is from the 1890s and is intended to mimic golden leather. It was likely produced in Belgium and very expensive.

    Finnegården is where the wealthy Engzelius family lived. The term ‘storing’ is used about the upper class in Røros; they worked in a higher position at the mine and they also created their wealth on trade and other business activities. The Engzelius family was one of the most prominent ‘storing’ families in Røros. They weren’t just merchants but also worked in industry and banking. 

    In total, there are 60 rooms inside – huge for a building in Røros. 

    Today the building is under protection. 

    Pictures | Source 1 | Source 2 | Source 3 | Excellent Interior Picture Gallery

    Lion Pharmacy

    Løve = Lion
    apoteket = Pharmacy

    The pharmacy was established in 1821 and supplied the entire Circumference (mining region). 

    The pharmacist didn’t just have drugs and medicines. They also sold prunes, raisins, candy sugar and self-made chocolate. For a while, they even sold liquor. Whenever the transport workers arrived in Røros, you can bet the first place they went was the pharmacy!

    Today the pharmacy is located closed to the modern shopping area. The interior of this pharmacy is well preserved, with murals painted in 1936. 

    Why is it called a lion pharmacy? Are there lions in Røros? It’s actually very common in Germanic countries (Scandinavia, Germany, Austria) to name pharmacies after animals. Lions and swans are the most common names in Norway, while in Germany and Austria they have animals like rhinos, pelicans and stork. 

    Photo 1 | Photo 2

    Source 1 | Source 2 | Source 3

    Sleggveien

    Welcome to perhaps one of the most photographed streets in Røros.

    These houses are very different than the ones we just waked through. Most of the people who lived on this street were poor and didn’t own their own animals. Additionally, they very likely did not work in mining.

    The people who lived in Sleggveien were craftsmen, cleaners, gypsies and others who had no permanent work at Røros Kobberverk. They had no land to farm. The women earned a living as domestic servants in wealthy homes, while the men were likely cobblers, clock and watch repairmen, or maybe musicians. 

    These days, some of the houses are open to the public in summer. You can find further info below. 

    NOTE – some of these homes are private residences. Please be respectful when walking through the street. I’ve outlined which houses are not lived in, but for the ones that are please don’t look through windows, mailboxes, etc. I know it seems like a common courtesy, but it is a growing problem. 

    Opening Hours | Thursday evening Concerts

    Source 1 | Source 2 

    Slag/slegg

    We’ve made it to Mt. Slag! Well, that’s not it’s official name, but it does feel like a bit of a hike to get up here. 

    What is slag (slegg in Norwegian)? It is a mixture of oxides, silicates and other residues formed during the production and refining of metals. Basically, it’s waste from the smelting process. 

    These slag heaps are the result of 300 years of smelting ore at the smeltery.

    Originally, slag was transported across the bridge via horse and cart. In 1889, a cable and bucket system was built over the river. The bridge (we’ll see it soon) is what is left of the slag transport system. 

    Source 1

    Røros Copperworks

    This complex is where the Røros Kobberverk had their offices and workshops. The oldest buildings along the river are from before 1820. The other buildings are from after 1940. 

    From right to left:

    • Blacksmith: This stone building is from the 1880s and is where the blacksmith was. The blacksmith’s job was to make and repair tools, equipment and utensils for all mining activities. 
    • Workshop: This is from 1800, with an additional floor coming a few decades later. The ground-floor was a carpenters workshop and the upper floor was used by bellows makers. The bellows makers assembled, maintained and repaired the air bellows that forced air into the furnaces into the smeltery. The building is still a carpentry workshop. 
    • Wheelwrights/Wheelmakers Workshop: This is also from between 1800 and 1820, and it is where wagon wheels and water wheels were made. These were very important for mining, and a wheelwright was regarded as one of the most skilled and qualified of artisans. 
    • Bellows Workshop: This is one of the oldest buildings in the complex. Built in the early 1800s, this is where the bellow makers constructed, repaired and maintained the bellows. Bellows are used in the smeltery to construct, repair and maintain the bellows that were used to force air into the furnaces. They were highly respected craftsmen. 
    • The Office Building: This is from between 1800 and 1820 and served as the office for company staff members. On the second floor is where the surveyor’s office was. His job was to survey the land and draw up plans, make models and maps that were about the ore deposits and mines. Today the building is used by the Røros Preservation Centre. 
    • Iron Shed: The iron shed is another early 19th century building. As the name suggests, rod iron was stored here and then utilised to make different types of machinery and equipment. The building is almost exactly the same as when it was built – the windows were added in the late 1800s. 
    • Work House: The last building in the lineup is the work house – it is where heavy carpentry work was done. Apart from necessary maintenance work, this building is unaltered from when it was built in 1820. 

    Source 1 | 2 | 3 |4| 5 | 6 | 7 

    Slag Transportation System & Dam

    When you stand on the bridge, you get an excellent outlook to the dam and the slag transportation system. 

    Røros Kobberverk erected the smeltery at the waterfall Hitterelva in 1646. The damn was constructed around the same time.

    The water intake powered the vertical saw in the sawmill, which was located on the eastern (across from the museum) side of the river. 

    The sawmill was used for more than 200 years. When it was closed in 1920, they dismantled it. When the dam was being restored, the remains were found and a new building is built over them to protect them. If you look in the picture, it’s the light-coloured wooden building on the right. The water wheel is on display at the museum. 

    From here you are back at the museum. I hope you enjoyed the walk!

    The Fv30 Highway

    You can reach Røros by taking the Fv30 from near Trondheim. You can find my guide to the Fv30 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv30 Highway
    Røros Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Gudbrandsdalen, History, Walking Guides

    Following in the Footsteps of Edvard Munch in Vågå

    Following in the Footsteps of Edvard Munch in Vågå

    When on a road trip through Norway, it’s worth trying to stop in as many small towns as possible. Each one is unique in their way, and each one has some treasures to uncover. Vågåmo, or Vågå, is on the E15 highway that links you between Oslo and Geiranger in the summer months, via the famous Lom village and close to the Sognefjellet Scenic Road. Vågå is one end of the Valdresflye Scenic Road, which gives you a close look at the Jotunheimen National Park. Vågå is well known for its wealth of outdoor activities, but they aren’t for everyone. If you’re looking for something a little different, you can do the Edvard Munch self-guided walk.

    In this article...

    The Rv15 Highway

    Vågå is located along the Rv15, which runs from Otta in the east to Måloy in the west. You can find my guide for the Rv15 by clicking the link below.  

    The Rv15 Highway
    Vågåmo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Edvard Munch & Vågå

    Yes, Edvard Munch is linked to Vågå. Edvard is, of course, Norway’s most famous painter. He is so famous that they’ve rebuilt the Munch Museum in Oslo as this dominating skyscraper over the city skyline. It is officially the largest building dedicated to one artist. Norway is proud of Edvard, that much is clear. But Edvard isn’t exclusive to Oslo; in Vågå you can find sites that draw connections to the famous artist. This is because his family is from Vågå.

    When walking through Vågå, you’ll get to learn about Edvard’s interest in his heritage, plus what the Munch’s did here. His father’s side came from Vågå, and when Edvard was a young man, he came here to learn more about his ancestry. He maintained a close relationship to Vågå throughout his life and visited several times.

    When I visited Vågå after finishing the Valdresflye Scenic Road in September 2020, I did the Edvard Munch self-guided walk. I’ll be honest, I find the town’s connection to Edvard Munch a little thin. Still, I love the town for its history and heritage. Through Edvard Munch, they’ve made a real effort to preserve their old buildings and the stories of his ancestors. That’s the part I loved about this walk; getting to learn about real people who lived here and see the old buildings. The walk is an excellent overview of Vågå, so even if you aren’t interested in Edvard Munch it’s well worth doing.

    In this article, I’ve included information about both Vågå and Munch’s connection to Vågå. It’s a short walk – 1.3km – so if you find yourself in Vågå, I recommend taking the time to explore the town.

    The Munch connection to Vågå

    Edvard Munch was born near Hamar, but his parents came from Kristiania (Oslo). To find his connection to Vågå, we have to go back to his grandparents and great grandparents on his father’s side, who lived in the town.

    Christine Munch

    His great grandfather was Peder Sørensen Munch, who was a pastor at Vågå Church. Sadly there isn’t much information on him today, but his wife is much more known. She was Edvard’s great grandmother, and her name is Christine Storm Munch. She had a herb garden at the Ullinsvin vicarage. Christine is the main family member you’ll hear about on the walk. The audio guide is even based on her stories.

    Christine (1747-1825) was a well-known knowledgable and accomplished woman. She governed Ullinsvin in the last part of the 18th century. Christine grew and collected healing herbs and spices in the vicarage’s garden. She was well known for helping sick villagers with her natural remedies. Before cookbooks were common, she wrote hundreds of pages of recipes.

    Another well-known Munch is Edvard Storm (1749-1794), the half-brother of Christine. He grew up at Ullinsvin and wrote folk songs in the Vågå dialect. They are still sung by folk singers today. He is a famous poet and many of his poems are characteristic of Norwegian national romanticism.

    Edvard's Interest in Vågå

    Why the interest in Vågå? Edvard suffered a lot of loss in his family when he was growing up. That likely piqued his interest in learning about his ancestors. His father had told him stories about his family in Vågå. The town was considered a key place for the family on his father’s side. Everyone in the family felt a need to visit Vågå Church and Ullinsvin vicarage. So, Edvard did. He visited first as a young man and returned several times throughout his life. It’s believed he drew inspiration from the landscape as well as some of the paintings in Vågå Church.

    Vågå Church

    Vågå Church is the first stop on the self-guided walk. The walk begins in the town square, where you’ll see a large ‘The Scream’ poster that you can pose in! Still, I’ll begin my guide with the church.

    There’s a lot of misinformation online about the church. Many tourism websites define the church as either “one of the oldest wooden churches in Norway” or as “one of the oldest stave churches in Norway”. Neither is true.

    Vågå Church was built in the 17th century, using parts of a stave church that was considered one of the oldest stave churches in the country. However, today Vågå Church is not built in a stave style and thus not classified as one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. Still, don’t let this put you off visiting! Stave elements are remaining, and the church is gorgeous.

    History of the church

    Vågå has been populated for a very long time. Vågå is mentioned in the Old Norse sagas when King Olav (later Saint Olav) travelled through the region. He called all the villagers to a meeting, and told them if they didn’t convert to Christianity, he’d burn their houses and farms down. Most of the villagers converted to Christianity.

    It’s believed the site where Vågå Church is today used to be a pagan temple. There was likely a stave church on the site around 1030, a few years after King Olav forced everyone into Christianity. The stave church would’ve been a symbol of the dominance of the new religion over the old, though stave churches did use pagan symbology. If Christianity didn’t work out, they could use the church as a pagan church.

    A new stave church was completed on the site around 1150, and this is widely regarded as one of the oldest stave churches in the country. It was not the only stave church in the village; there were several scattered throughout the village.

    A new church for Vågå

    By the early 17th century, the population of Vågå had become too large for the stave churches. So, a decision was made to tear them down and make one large central church. Between 1626 and 1628, Vågå Church was built. It is a cruciform church and, while the construction technique is like stave churches, the church does not have staves. Because of this, it is not classified as a stave church.

    Still, there are elements of stave churches on this church. The several previous stave churches had good timber, and some of this is in the construction of Vågå Church. Many of the wall surfaces have the old decorations from the stave churches, especially the portals.

    The basic architectural plan is a Latin cross. The construction was done under the direction of Werner Olsen (1600-1682), who is famous in Gudbrandsdalen for his renovation work on stave churches. He later worked on the remodelling of Lom Stave Church and Ringebu Stave Church. His ‘trademark’ is the octagonal bell tower with four small spires in each corner. This type of spire is known as the “Gudbrandstalen type”. Olsen worked to incorporate elements from the stave churches into the new church.

    The Baptismal Font (Source)

    Interior Decorations

    There are some richly decorated items inside, some from the original stave church. For example, the baptismal font is from the 12th century and is the church’s oldest inventory. The pattern corresponds to a pattern found on a Viking ship. It was likely brought over from Ireland by the Vikings. Another old item is the crucifix, from the mid-13th century. It’s in the Gothic style.

    The pulpit and altarpiece are from the rebuilding of the church. The organ is from 2002 and has 1200 pipes.

    Cemetery

    The most famous grave in the cemetery is of Jo Gjende. He (1794-1884) was famous in Norway as an outdoorsman and freethinker. He was born in Vågå and grew up on a farm, which he later inherited, but he ended up living in the Jotunheimen mountains on a mountain farm. Jo became known for his reindeer hunting and sharpshooting. Eventually, he became a vocal sceptic of Christianity, instead, he believed in natural philosophy. For this, he became known as a freethinker. It’s believed that Henrik Ibsen used Jo Gjende as a model for Peer Gynt.

    You will also see some of the Munch family graves here, such as Edvard Storm.

    Vågå Church Visitor Info

    The church has its own website, which you can view here. It’s only in Norwegian, but has a page for tourists. As of writing, there’s no info on opening hours.

    Ullinsvin Vicarage

    Ullinsvin vicarage is a short uphill (but not steep) walk from the church, and the views along the way are incredible. Once at the vicarage, you can walk around the gardens for free. There’s a café here plus a gallery.

    Ullinsvin is an old vicarage with a total of 13 buildings. The old garden has a herb garden, rosebeds, mountain gardens and various trees and shrubs. The Munch family lived at the vicarage for over 80 years, and Christine became famous for her herb garden here. Sadly the original location of the herb garden is unknown, though thanks to her recipes they have been able to replant some of her herbs.

    You can take a break at Ullinsvin at Café Edvard, where they have created a menu around Christine’s old recipes.

    Jo Visdal was a close friend of Edvard Munch from adolescence and for the rest of their lives. They met when they were both studying at the Royal College of Drawing. Jo Visdal created the bus of Edvard Munch you can see in the garden. The bust shows Edvard Munch as a young man, and it is the only bust made of Edvard while he was alive. It was made in 1886. Jo Visdal is from Vågå.

    Up-to-date visitor info is found on their website, but it’s only in Norwegian. Click here.

    Inside the museum (source)

    Jutulheimen Bygdemuseum

    The last stop on the walk is the museum all about life around Jotunheimen National Park.

    The museum contains a collection of houses from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries from various farms in Vågå. In summer, you can have a guided tour through the museum. There’s an old portal that’s connected to the folktales of Asbjørnsen and Moe, Norway’s most famous fairytale writers. There are some interesting interior exhibitions, too. One exhibition focuses on the impact of World War II on Gudbransdalen, while another is about Jo Gjende, the reindeer hunter.

    Up-to-date visitor information can be found on their website (click here).

    Practical information

    Edvard Munch self-guided walk

    The self-guided walk has its own website, which you can view here. The website includes the audio you can listen to at each stop, though it’s only in Norwegian. There’s also a ton of info in English about Munch and Vågå. I used the website as a resource for this page. https://www.munchivaga.no/english/

    The Rv15 Highway

    Vågå is located along the Rv15, which runs from Otta in the east to Måloy in the west. You can find my guide for the Rv15 by clicking the link below.  

    The Rv15 Highway
    Vågåmo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Stavanger, Walking Guides

    A Walk Through Gamle Stavanger

    Walking Guides

    Gamle (Old) Stavanger is probably the most known part of Stavanger. It is certainly one of the most visited tourist attractions in the city, and rightly so. Gamle Stavanger is a preserved district of around 155 wooden houses from the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s incredibly charming, scenic, picturesque, and Norwegian.

    I’ve written a walking guide to Stavanger, where I provide a detailed overview of where to walk in Gamle Stavanger. If you are interested in that, click here.

    This article is more of a general guide to Gamle Stavanger. The goal here is to show you what the area is all about and why it’s such a great place to visit.

    Before we start, I should say there is very little information on each individual house and street. There are (very expensive) books on Gamle Stavanger in Norwegian, but as of writing there’s very little in English. I also find it interesting that this is referred to as ‘Old Stavanger’, when the town centre (see the self-guided walk) is much older.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Gamle Stavanger

    View over Gamle Stavanger in the early 20th century (Source)

    It’s not sure how old Gamle Stavanger is. Some houses have been here since the 1700s, but the area was mostly open pastures. Before 1820, there was one row of warehouses along the bay and a few scattered properties on the slope above it.

    As a result of rich herring fishing, shipping, and shipbuilding, there was a huge population growth between 1815-1880. The area where Gamle Stavanger is became the city’s first housing development. The first houses built here were tiny; during an economic boom in the 1860s and 1870s, many were demolished to make way for larger houses. Some original houses remain, but many only exist as parts of a newer construction.

    Source (Click Here)

    After World War II, there was interest in demolishing houses to build apartments. In 1951, Einar Heden (1916-2001) took the initiative to preserve the dilapidated Gamle Stavanger.  On 11 November 1957, the Gamle Stavanger Foundation was founded. Heden became the association’s first chairman. Over the next few years, more began to care about Gamle Stavanger. In 1965 the Council voted unanimously to preserve Gamle Stavanger and 79 buildings. 10 years later, the area was expanded to 154 houses – the current regulation.

    Source (Click Here)

    Today, it is recognised that the existence of Gamle Stavanger is thanks to Heden. Before his conservation work, Gamle Stavanger was one of the least desirable areas. It consisted of rundown wooden buildings owned by the lowest classes. Today Gamle Stavanger is one of the wealthiest areas to live.

    The Canning Industry

    The canning industry is important to Stavanger, and there is a Canning Museum located here. Note that the museum is closed for an extensive renovation and will be closed until spring 2021.

    While most of the factories have been torn down, some still exist. For example, close to the tourist information centre is this grand red building. This is where the Stavanger Preserving Co. was located.

    This is the first cannery to be built in Stavanger, established in 1873.

    The building is no longer used as a cannery; in the 1980s, the company merged with Norway Foods and moved headquarters. Today this building is a bank.

    The Oldest House in Stavanger

    Villa Blidensol is Stavanger’s oldest house, after the Cathedral and the Bishop’s Chapel.

    Blidensol is first mentioned on a map in 1726. It is next mentioned in a written source in 1737. The building itself is thought to be from 1777, though some believe it is older – it’s hard to know what’s original, what was moved here, etc. The villa is built in an Empire style that was probably added in the period 1805-1820. Much of the interior is unchanged.

    The first known owner is Laurits Andersen Smith (1680-1758). He bought several smaller plots and merged them into a large estate. The name isn’t very Norwegian; that is because he came from Scotland. Laurits is the son of Andrew Smith, who did the wood carvings inside Stavanger Cathedral. They owned the home until 1825. From then on, the large estate was continuously subdivided into smaller plots.

    When lawyer Christen Iben Minos bought the house in the mid-1980s, it was quite decayed. He and his wife extensively restored and modernised the house, though keeping it in an old style. Today the villa is privately owned and it’s a little tricky to see.

    The White Houses

    A true highlight of Gamle Stavanger is the white houses. These houses are very characteristically Norwegian, with their weatherboard and ceramic tile roof.

    For me it was a photographers dream, especially with the sun shining. Here are some photos of the houses.

    Characteristic ceramic tile roof. Ceramic is local to Stavanger

    Gamle Stavanger consists of around 173 buildings, though this has risen to 250.

    Why are the houses wooden?

    Wood has historically been the cheapest source of material and more easy to obtain than stone. Stone, on the other hand, is for important buildings like the Stavanger Cathedral. In history, white was the most expensive coat of paint as it showed wealth. The reason these houses are white is not because of this, but because in the 19th century neoclassical was the style, and neoclassical meant white houses.

    On some of the houses, you’ll see mirrors sticking out the side. This is very typical of houses close by the sea. In the old times, if you’re sitting inside and hear someone coming your way, you can use this two-way mirror to check who it is. If it’s someone you like, you can welcome them inside. If it’s someone you don’t like, pretend to not be home! The wives would use these mirrors when gossiping with friends; their husbands were often away at sea.

    In the background you can see the city centre.

    Who owns the houses?

    The houses are privately owned. Originally these were the poorest homes in the city, but now they have become some of the most desired homes. The price tag reflects this.

    Here are two examples of places for sale at the moment. The one at the top is a house with two bedrooms (soverom) on sale for 3.1 million NOK. The second one is an apartment with one bedroom on sale for 3.6 million NOK.

    Issues with Tourists

    In recent years Gamle Stavanger has become a popular destination with tourists. That’s (of course) fine, but in the last couple years there have been issues with tourists. Mostly the issue is that some tourists have been looking through mailboxes, peeking through windows, and even walking into people’s private gardens! Some believe that, because it’s a collection of old buildings, it must be an open air museum. Locals own these homes. You cannot start violating their privacy. I know my readers won’t do it, but keep in mind people do it.

    Part of the problem is the growing number of cruise ships, which dock right outside Gamle Stavanger. The pollution and overcrowding is becoming a problem for residents. Just look at these photos:

    You can see Gamle Stavanger to the left. Source

    Just Google ‘Gamle Stavanger cruise ship’ for many photos like this (or click here).

    In 2019, 234 cruise ships called at Stavanger bringing 496,000 passengers. The vast majority of these come between the tourist season – May to September. Some cruise ships carry up to 5,000 passengers. (Source)

    Don’t get me wrong; I don’t mind cruise ships. After all, I’m a local guide and rely on that income. Cruise ships can do a lot of good. If you’re coming to Stavanger on a cruise ship, be sure to be extra nice to the locals. If you’re going to be in Stavanger when there’s a cruise ship in, perhaps reconsider when you want to leave the hotel room!

    Einar Heden's Plass

    This is a small square where you can sit and reflect. The name is from the man who saved Gamle Stavanger – city architect Einar Heden.

    You’ll see an old power post in the backyard of one of the houses. The square also offers lovely views of Stavanger town.

    Visiting Gamle Stavanger

    Gamle Stavanger is a free, public area in Stavanger city centre. There are plenty of shops, cafes and some museums. It’s perfect for an afternoon visit.

    Gamle Stavanger is located about a five minute walk from the city centre (see circled area above).

    Have you been to Gamle Stavanger? Share your experience in the comments.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Southern Norway, Stavanger, Walking Guides

    The Streets of Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    The Streets of Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    I love Stavanger. It’s one of those places that I didn’t think much of at first, until I really got to walk around. It’s got such a fascinating history, from the Cathedral’s founding to the canning industry and now this oil wealth. When visitors come to Stavanger, they typically go straight to Gamle Stavanger. In my opinion, the city centre is just as charming with its wooden houses, architecture, and history. So, I made a Stavanger self-guided walking tour.

    In this article...

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Start: Torget

    Welcome to Stavanger! Our walk starts at Torget, the main square and centre of Stavanger. Until the 11th century, it was nothing more than a bay in the middle of a sandy beach. It was filled in and extended by the locals, and over the centuries has become an important commerce and meeting place. 

    Today Torget has a new fish market building and several restaurants. More houses stood here originally, but over the last century, they were removed. All the old warehouses are now restaurants and bars.

    Kongsgård Royal Estate

    Kongsgård is a historic royal residence. The property owned all this land you see around you now, including the lake. Until the Reformation, the building was used by the bishop and his staff. The bishop’s manor was looted, and houses were burned down during Pentecost 1539 by about 60 pirates. In 1607, the sheriff received permission to rebuilt, and he did. However, by the late 18th century Kongsgård was broke. 

    Kongsgård became the Stavanger Cathedral School in 1824. Kongsgård is mentioned a lot in the writing of Alexander Kielland as he was a student here.

    During World War II, the Germans used Kongsgård as a quarter for the Local German Commander. A fire on Easter Sunday 1942 destroyed large parts of the building. Initially, the Germans didn’t want to let the fire brigade put out the fire. As a result, the extend of the fire was greater than it should have been. 34 students lost their lives during the war. 10 lecturers from the school were sent to concentration camps. From 1945, Kongsgård became the school. The main building is from the Middle Ages and includes the bishops chapel and knights hall.

    Byparken

    Until the 1960s, this was part of the Kongsgård property. The part closest to the cathedral used to be a cemetery. It’s believed there was a lavish garden and ponds as far back as 1299.

    Stavanger Cathedral

    Most importantly, we are at the town’s most famous landmark: the Stavanger Cathedral. This is the oldest cathedral in Norway; older than Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. I know we’ve had a lot of history so far on this walk, but it’s all coming together!

    Web link

    Stavanger was founded as a city in 1125, around the same time the Cathedral was built. The royals in Norway needed to have some control over the pagans in the south. They introduced Christianity with force and built the Cathedral. Yet, it’s a bit of a chicken and egg situation. What came first – the town or the cathedral? I can’t imagine them building a cathedral in the middle of nowhere, but the town likely didn’t exist until the cathedral was built. Anyway.

    Subsequently, a fire in 1272 destroyed the cathedral. Above all, it was rebuilt between 1276 and 1303, this time in stone, and it took on the Gothic feel we see today. 

    The Ruins of St. Mary's Church

    Yes, there’s no church here today. Most importantly, St. Mary’s Church stood here from the 12th century until the 19th century, when it was torn down. The church has a sad and complicated history. 

    It is uncertain why St. Mary’s Church stood so close to Stavanger Cathedral. One theory is that is a replacement cathedral from the great fire of 1272. Above all, it took a long time to rebuild the cathedral, so it was necessary to have a temporary house of worship. Another theory is that it was a separate independent church. The church may be from the 12th century. Around that time churches called St. Mary’s went up in Nidaros, Bergen, Oslo and Tønsberg.

    However, the church fell into disrepair after the Reformation in 1537. It became a hangout for the towns drunkards. In 1565, the town’s bourgeoisie took over the church and converted into a town hall and parliament. The city’s gallows stood outside. A prison was built in the church and developed a bad reputation for great suffering. 

    Moreover, in 1865, the church became a fire station. Less than 20 years later, the fire brigade and prison moved out. A city engineer proposed that the building is antique and thus should be torn down. The city demolished the church in 1883.

    Donkirkeplassen

    This is the name of the square next to the ruins of St. Mary’s Church. This is the site of the old Bishops Estate. It was the residence of the bishops of Stavanger and bordered the old St. Mary’s Church. For instance, the name of our next point of interest, Laugmannsgata, comes from two lawyers who lived in Bispegården. The building was demolished in 1957. The Norges Bank building is where the NOKAS robbery took place.

    Laugmannsgata

    This is one of the city’s oldest streets, linking Domkirkeplassen to Arneageren. The name comes from two lawyers who lived at Bispegården in the 18th century. 

    Arneageren

    Arneageren is a public square. It is home to the culture house, which was built in 1987. The culture house has various galleries, cafes, kiosks, a cinema and an art school for kids.

    The Film Theatre building is next to the culture house and a little older. Dating back to 1924, the building is neoclassical. It is regarded as one of the most important representatives of this style in Rogaland county. The Film Theatre was rebuilt in connection with the culture house in 1988. The square is well-known in Stavanger. Throughout the week, political and religious organisations distribute brochures. There is regular music from groups and street musicians.

    Søregata

    Søregata runs along the border of the old Arnegård farm. While the street itself is old, the exact age is unknown. In the 19th century, this street was known for its eateries and bars. Many workers and sailors lived along this street and there was a liquor distillery at the end. The cafes would display the dish of the day in the window. It’s not like the Asian restaurants (if you’ve been to countries like Japan) that have plastic displays. No, these cafes used real food. By the end of the day, the food had attracted many flies. 

    Mauritzengården

    Mauritzengården is a house from 1905. It was commissioned by soap factory owner Svan Mauritzen.  The building is considered one of the city’s finest Art Nouveau brick buildings. It is built in red brick with a corner tower and a spire. 

    Kirkegata

    Kirkegata is the first ever pedestrian street in Norway – announced in 1960. The name means ‘Church Street’, so the street leads to Stavanger Cathedral. If you turn left you’ll be at Stavanger Cathedral in two blocks. 

    It’s believed that Kirkegata was a street from before the year 1100. It’s had different names throughout history, including Urgata and Holmengata. Urgata refers to a natural clock. One theory is that building materials for Stavanger Cathedral were stored here, and that a wrecked stone was tipped down and turned into a clock. Holmen refers to the flat edge near the water – today it’s the name fo the northern part of Stavanger inner city. After the fire of 1860, the street got the name Kirkegata.

    Steinkargata

    This is an old street that linked the two main streets Østervåg with Kirkegata. It previously had the name “The Street to Østervåg”, indicating its purpose. Today’s name refers to a stone vessel used to moor boats. A wharf called “Laksebrygga” (Salmon Wharf) used to be here. Until the 1850s, fishermen docked here. The 1860 fire destroyed both sides of the street, so everything was rebuilt after that. 

    Sølvberggata

    Sølvberggata is from around the 17th century. The name comes from a large rock that used to stand where Arneageren is today; it was blasted away just after World War II. Sølvberg means ‘Silver mountain’ and refers to a large rock that used to stand where Arneageren is today. 

    Østervåg

    We’ve made it to Østervåg! This is the city’s main street. The name roughly means ‘East Bay’ and refers to the stretch of sea nearby. Østervåg was the natural harbour for scheduled shipping traffic and the fishing fleet. The bay area used to have shipyards. 

    Østervåg is one of the most important streets from the Middle Ages. The property Arnegård was here, and Østevåg ran through it. The street linked the bishop’s pier (Bispebrygga) to the Stavanger Cathedral. Østervåg is first mentioned in 1297 in relation to this pier. It’s believed that this was the medieval town centre. 

    The area we are on is very narrow, but it gradually becomes wider. This marks where the 1860 fire spread. The narrower part of the street was untouched, whereas the wider part of the street had burned down and was regulated and levelled after the fire. The fire started at the corner of Østervåg and Breigata. 

    Geoparken

    Geoparken (built 2008) is a playground built with items used in the oil industry. The layout is designed to replicate the formation of the Troll Field in the North Sea. 

    Norwegian Oil Museum

    The Norwegian Oil Museum is an excellent place to learn about the Norwegian oil industry. The museum covers the entirety of Norway’s oil journey. It stars from early exploration to discovery, foreign help and current environmental concerns. The museum has a lot of information boards, photographs, footage, and objects used to help develop the oil platforms. Main Article: The Oil Museum

    Norwegian Oil Museum

    I have a separate article for the Norwegian Oil Museum, which you can read via the link below. 

    Oil Museum

    The Colour Street

    Welcome to Norway’s most colourful street!

    The concept of having a colourful street starts in 2005. Hairdresser Tom Kjørsvik wanted to create a vibrant atmosphere to draw more visitors to the area. Scottish artist Craig Flannagan designed the colours to have a Miami Vice theme. It’s not only the colours that make the street work. The houses have deliberate colour combinations. Each house as a series of colours for its facade, doors and window frames. Each colour scheme harmonises the house.

    View their Facebook page for current events

    Valberget

    Valberget Viewpoint is the site of the city’s old fortress. The date of the fortress is unknown. The land was likely given to Stavanger during the Nordic Seven Years’ War in 1567. The city likely needed defence for the sea after the Swedes were trying to take Bergen from the sea in 1564.

    Above all, fires have destroyed the fortress many times. There’s not much of the original fortress remaining. Its current appearance is from the 19th century. They had 12 12-pound cannons circling the tower. In 1840, they discarded the cannons when four men went on trial for refusing to shoot with them. They were acquired because the cannons were proven to be life threatening. Today the cannons are decorations on the viewpoint.

    The tower is not original – it was built in 1850 and is a lookout tower. 

    Skagen

    Skagen is a street that runs parallel along the bay, Vågen, linking Torget to Holmen. It is one of the city’s liveliest streets with many shops and nightclubs. But it is also home to some of Stavanger’s oldest buildings. 

    That is to say, the name Skagen is common all throughout Scandinavia and refers to a headland. It’s believed the street was here in the Middle Ages and is largely unchanged from the 13th century. Archaeological finds show that there were buildings here in the Middle Ages. 

    We are in the upper part of Skagen, making our way down to the lower and older part.

    The Clarion Hotel is where a cannery used to be. The cannery ran for three generations before being demolished in 1964 and replaced with the hotel. For example, Chr. Bjelland & Co, is one of Stavanger’s most famous canneries (see the history section). 

    Certainly, as we walk along Skagen, you’ll notice many references to shipbuilding, merchants, and steamships (dampskip). It indicates what exactly this street was used for. 

    Skagen 18

    Most importantly, Skagen 18 is one of the city’s oldest and most famous buildings. It is from after the 1684 fire, though a building stood here before then. The oldest known inhabitants are Sidsel Olsdatter Cruys and Albert Albertsen Libert. They aren’t famous Norwegians; just residents who have been remembered in history thanks to their house being the longest lasting. They lived here between 1687 and 1700. Moreover, inside the building are rosemaling decorations from before 1710. Merchant and shipowner Ole Smith Plow is the next owner; establishing his business in 1768. In 1787, the building got its Rococo facade.

    Today it is a bakery.

    M/S Rogaland

    Rogaland was built by the local shipyard in 1929. She sailed in the Coastal Express Service between Oslo and Stavanger during the day. At night, she did the Night Service between Stavanger and Bergen.

    In Bergen in April 1944, during the occupation, there was a large explosion on the harbour. That explosion killed one crew member of the Rogaland, injured five and seriously damaged the ship. The ship sank to the bottom of the bay. Declared a write-off, compensation went to the owner and the Stavangerske Company bought the wreckage. It was sealed in a shipyard in Bergen and then towed to a shipyard in Stavanger for repairs. Repairs finished in 1947. The ship resumed regular service at a limited passenger capacity. 

    After sending service in 1965, a group of enthusiasts purchased the ship in the 1980s. After lots of restoration, it is operational and can carry up to 100 passengers. The ship features in the 2016 film Dunkirk as a painted white hospital ship. The ship may or may not be in the harbour. If you walk onto the other side of the bay, you’ll see an information board for the ship. 

    Torget

    We’ve made it back to Torget and are now at the end of our walk.

    I hope you enjoyed this Stavanger self-guided walking tour.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, Walking Guides

    Basics of Bergen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    I’ve put together a Bergen self-guided walking tour designed to inspire and plan your trip to Bergen!

    This walking tour is for those who may be in Bergen for a limited time, or may be wondering what they can do with their time. The tour doesn’t go over much history and everyday life topics that I cover in my other walking tours. Rather, it explains what you can see and do in Bergen.

    In this article, I’ve provided not just the walking tour but links to other pages on my website where I explain the topic in greater detail.

    Here we go!

    Join me on a walking tour!

    I do in-person walking tours of Bergen too! If you want to experience Bergen with a guide, click the button below to see my tours.

    https://www.ilovebergen.net

    Bergen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Start: Bryggen

    Bryggen

    Here we are on Bryggen, Bergen’s UNESCO World Heritage site. Bryggen, which is ‘wharf’ in Norwegian, was built in the 12th century. It was the commercial centre of Norway and is likely Scandinavia’s first commercial town. 

    Between 1360 and 1754, Bryggen was the trading centre of the Hanseatic League. They were a German merchant organisation that dominated trade in the Baltic and North Seas. After a fire in 1955, the first archaeological excavation took place under Bryggen. Most importantly, the remains of the first-ever warehouses were discovered along with hundreds of objects from life in the 13th century. In short, they are on display at the Bryggen Museum.

    Bergen Fortress

    If you keep walking straight ahead, you’ll reach the Bergen Fortress. Called ‘Bergenhus’, the fortress area is from the 13th century when Bergen was the capital of Norway. King Håkon Håkonsson had ‘Håkon’s Hall’ constructed for the royal wedding of his son, Magnus the Lawmender. When Magnus became King around 1270, he wrote down the first laws of Bergen (hence his name) and had the stone tower you see constructed. 

    When Norway became part of Denmark in the 16th century, the Danish lord of Bergenhus, Eric Rosenkrantz, reconstructed the tower and named it after himself. Many of the old royal buildings were torn down, including a 12th century church. The fortress became more military than royal house. During World War II, the German soldiers used Bergenhus as a base. Certainly, you can see remains of buildings from the 11th century up until World War II. 

    We don’t walk into the fortress on this Bergen self-guided walking tour; it’s worth covering on its own walk.

    Read more: A walk through the Bergen Fortress

    Bryggen Museum

    The Bryggen Museum focuses on the life of Bryggen, the wharf area in Bergen. For example, the museum displays hundreds of objects categorised according to their everyday purpose, including game pieces, hair combs, religious artefacts, clothing, and even a toilet! The museum has just undergone a major renovation and is well worth visiting. One of my favourite displays is a large television screen that goes through the development of Bryggen and all the fires we’ve had – there has been dozens! The souvenir shop is also worth visiting, and there is a café inside. 

    Bryggen Museum website

    St. Mary’s Church

    This is the oldest building in Bergen. That is to say, it was built between 1130 and 1170, St. Mary’s Church has seen the least damage from fires and remains more or less original. The two towers are from the early 14th century, and the stained glass window is the first in Norway. Inside the church is incredibly well decorated. This is because the Hanseatic League thought St. Mary’s Church was a good luck charm. Most importantly, they brought artwork from all over Europe to the church. Inside, the artworks span a period of 400 years from all over Europe. Today St. Mary’s Church is Anglican, though it was built as a Catholic Church. 

    Sandviken Area

    If you turn left and walk for around 10 minutes, you’ll reach the suburb Sandviken. Sandviken is a historic fishing village with many 18th century wooden houses. Above all, it’s very charming and very ‘Bergen’. At Sandviken you’ll find the Fisheries Museum, the Fjellveien scenic footpath, and a little further along is the Gamle Bergen open air museum. 

    We don’t walk into Sandviken on this Bergen self-guided walking tour; it’s worth covering on its own walk. For example, I’m currently putting together a Sandviken walk.

    Fløibanen Funicular

    The Fløibanen is a funicular that will take you to the top of Mt. Fløyen, one of the seven mountains that surrounds Bergen city centre. The mountain is 320m (1000ft) high and has gorgeous views from the top. Most importantly, during busy times of the day, the funicular runs continuously and takes 5-8 minutes to reach the top. You can download an app to buy tickets and see the schedule or buy on at the ticket counter. 

    Behind the funicular station you’ll see a zig-zag path to the top. Follow this if you’d rather hike to the top of Mt. Fløyen. The hike takes about 45 minutes and is considered an easy hike (by Norwegian standards). Signs will lead you to the top. 

    We don’t walk up Fløyen on this Bergen self-guided walking tour; it’s something to do on your own.

    Read more: Walking up Mt. Fløyen

    Fløibanen Website

    Lille Øvregaten

    For instance, this is just an idea of what you can find in this area. If you begin to walk on the streets on the side of the hill, you’ll find old timber houses with plenty of charm. One of my favourite things to do in this area is to just get lost! I’m working on a walking tour called ‘Along the Mountainside’ which will take you through the most secret of narrow streets. It’s due in early 2021.

    The Allmenningen Streets

    This wide street is called an ‘allmenningen’. This is a purposely built street from the 16th century designed to prevent fire spreading rapidly between buildings – you’ll notice many streets in Bergen end in the word ‘allmenningen’. 

    Kong Oscars Gate

    Kong Oscars Gate is one of the oldest roads in Bergen. It is the old highway leading to southern Norway. Along this road, you’ll find many historical buildings. Along Kong Oscars Gate and up on the hill is the same layout from after the largest fire in Bergen, 1702. Most of the buildings date from that period. 

    If you turn left and follow the road, you’ll pass the Shoe Street (Skostredet) with many cool restaurants and bars). Then you pass the Bergen Cathedral, Leprosy Hospital, and end up at the historic city gate. The city gate is around a 10-15 minute walk from where you are now. Past the gate is the wealthy area Kalfaret and the Lungegård Lake, both covered in separate walking tours.

    If you turn right, you’ll pass 18th-century wooden houses with many trendy bars and cafes. A little further down is the famous hot dog stand of Bergen. The road to the right ends at Bryggen. 

    Kong Oscars Gate is not covered in depth on this Bergen self-guided walking tour. I am working on a separate self-guided walking tour for this fascinating part of town! For example, walk up and down it on your own to see all the history here.

    Church of the Cross

    This is one of three medieval churches left in Bergen: the other two are the Bergen Cathedral (Domkirken) and St. Mary’s Church. Unlike St. Mary’s Church, Korskirken has been affected by almost every fire Bergen has had (remember – dozens!) and been rebuilt in a different style every time. The name comes from a legend that the first Korskirken was built with a piece of Christ’s cross in the walls. Today the church is used by the missionaries in Bergen.

    Torget & The Fish Market

    We are now on the square, Torget (translates to ‘the square’). Here you can see a statue of Ludvig Holberg. He’s a famous 17th/18th century writer and political figure. You may recognise the name from Edvard Grieg’s Holberg Suite. Grieg wrote the Suite on Holberg’s 200th birthday. 

    Across the street, past the statue, is the fish market. The fish market in Bergen is famous – here you can try many local products from salmon to cod to trout, tuna, and more. There’s also Red King Crab from the Barents Sea, seal oil, whale meat, paella, dried fish snacks, mussels, and anything that comes from the sea. It’s a great place to try fresh seafood. The large glass building has a seafood restaurant on the lower floor. The tourist information centre is on the higher floor. 

    Torgallmenningen

    We are now in a part of Bergen that is more modern. That is because it was affected by the last great fire of Bergen in 1916, and everything we see was rebuilt after that period.

    On Torgallmenningen you’ll find shopping centres (Galleriet and Xhibition) and many department stores. 

    The Blue Stone

    The Blue Stone is the meeting point of Bergen. Just past the Blue Stone you’ll see St. John’s Church (Johanneskirken), the largest church in Bergen. It’s from the late 19th century. If you walk up to St. John’s Church and then turn left you’ll be in the University area with museums and a botanic garden. Past that is the working-class suburb of Møhlenpris and the gorgeous Nygård Park. To the right of St. John’s is the hidden area of Sydnes – a historic timber house suburb. At the end of Sydnes is the Hurtigruten Terminal. 

    Turn to your right. At the top of the slope is a large concrete building. This is the Theatre. It was established by the famous violinist Ole Bull in 1850 as the first theatre in Norway to perform in Norwegian. Before then, Danish was seen as the language of the elite and was more widely used. Outside the theatre is a statue of Henrik Ibsen, the famous Norwegian playwright. He worked in the theatre when he was in his 20s. If you continue past the theatre you’ll be in the suburb Nordnes – regarded as one of the most picturesque suburbs of Bergen. At the end of the Nordnes Peninsula is the Bergen Aquarium.

    However, Nordnes and Sydnes are not covered in this Bergen self-guided walking tour. They will be covered in their own walks – coming soon!

    The Pavilion

    This pavilion is from the late 19th century, though it was basically replaced during the last restoration in 2019. The plants here change according to the season. 

    To the left, you’ll see a statue of Edvard Grieg. Edvard Grieg is Norway’s most famous composer. He was born in Bergen in 1843 and lived most of his life here, passing away in 1907. Grieg is attributed with showcasing Norwegian folk music and being inspired by nature. About 10km (6 mi) outside of Bergen is Troldhaugen, Edvard Grieg’s home and today a museum. It is well worth visiting, especially between May and October when they have daily lunchtime piano concerts there. 

    They play Beethoven, Mosart, etc. Just kidding, of course they play Edvard Grieg music! The brick building behind Grieg is the Telegraph Building – today it’s a department store. 

    Read more: The Edvard Grieg Museum, Troldhaugen

    To the right is another brick building. This is the first of the four KODE art galleries. These are the large collection of art galleries in Scandinavia. The first KODE gallery displays various crafted objects. The opening hours change quite a lot, so check the website for details. We’ll see the other KODE galleries at our next and last stop: Byparken

    Byparken

    Here we are at Byparken! This park was laid out in the early 20th century. Before then, this lake connected to the fjord and many people used to dock their boats in this area. I cover this topic more on my Lungegård Lake walking tour. Byparken is used for many festivals and markets, including our Christmas Market and Food Market. On Norway’s National Day, 17 May, this is where the festivities are. 

    Above all, the large mountain the background is Mt. Ulriken – the tallest of the seven Bergen mountains at 640m (2000ft). It is possible to take a cable car to the top. A minibus departs from the fish market in the summer months to take you there. 

    Between the lake and Mt. Ulriken is the train station, the library, and the bus terminal with a large shopping centre on top (Storsenter). To the left of the lake, you’ll see a row of colourful houses. Many of Bergen’s newest and coolest cafes are opening up in these houses. Behind them are 18th-century wooden houses in the area ‘Marken’ – this is also where the Leprosy Hospital is. 

    To the right of the lake are the other three KODE galleries. KODE 2 is for modern art (and has a shop and café). Most importantly, the third KODE has Bergen’s Munch exhibition as well as a very good National Romantic exhibition. KODE 4 has famous foreign artworks and an exhibition for Nicolai Astrup. it also has the highly-rated ‘Lysverket’ restaurant.

  • Bergen, History, Walking Guides

    A Walk Through the Bergen Fortress

    Walking Guides

    The Bergen fortress is located roughly between the cruise ship terminal and Bryggen, making it a very convenient place for visitors to explore. It is one of my favourite places to take to, simply because there’s so much history there. Everywhere you look, you hear about Kings, Armies, War and renovation. It’s incredible.

    If you’re in Bergen and want to walk somewhere that’s maybe a little quieter than the town centre, or you love history, the fortress is for you!

    On the 5th of May 2020, I went for a walk through the fortress and took some photos of all the buildings. I used the free museum guide that you can either pick up from Håkon’s Hall or the Rosenkrantz Tower, or you can download it online by clicking the link:

    https://www.forsvarsbygg.no/globalassets/festningene/bergenhus-festning/festningsloype_bergenhus-festning_engelsk.pdf

    For my walk below, I have added a little bit of information and changed the walking path slightly. I am interested in reading stories about places, not just simply what a place is. So I’ve added that to my walk.

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of the Bergen Fortress

    The Royal Estate

    When Olav Kyrre officially founded Bergen in 1070, the Bergen Fortress was to be the site of the new royal estate. The royal estate (at Alrekstad) was too far away from the harbour, Vågen, so Olav Kyrre had it moved.

    Olav Kyrre had the Small Christ Church (Lille Kristkirken) built on the land, Holmen, and laid the foundations for the large Christ Church (Kristkirken), the towns medieval cathedral, in stone.

    The next King of Norway, King Øystein Magnusson, moved the royal estate from Alrekstad to Holmen in the 1100s. He began building residences for the royals there.

    Stability in the Kingdom

    After the various civil wars in Norway, King Håkon Håkonsson (King of Norway 1217-1263) took his seat as King of Norway. He made Holmen his residence. Norway became more permanently united under a single, national monarch. The royal residence had to become a more up-to-date fortified complex of stone buildings. Under Håkon Håkonsson, Bergen became the first true capital of Norway. The complex of new buildings at Holmen developed into the country’s political centre.

    During Håkon Håkonsson’s and King Magnus the Lawmender’s reign, Håkon’s Hall and the ‘Keep by the Sea’ (present-day Rosenkrantz Tower) were constructed. Additionally, several other royal buildings and a defensive wall finalised the fortress.

    A wall was also placed around the estate, and various other royal buildings were constructed.

    Danish Military Base

    At the beginning of the 16th century, Norway was becoming part of the Danish kingdom. As Holmen reflected Norway’s past and connection to independence, the Danish monarchy wanted it gone. The Danes levelled the Christ Church in 1530 for military reasons.

    The union with Denmark meant that Bergen ceased to need a permanent royal residence. However, the estate at Holmen remained a political-administrative centre. This is where the ‘captain of the royal palace’, or the governor, the King’s leading representative in Western Norway, had his headquarters.

    Renovations & Reformation

    King Christian II’s governor, Jørgen Hanssøn (1514-1523) put the royal palace in order again. He developed the estate into an administrative centre, with warehousing for the King’s income, and a military strongpoint. His comprehensive reconstruction gave the complex the name it has had ever since: Bergenhus. -hus at the time signified ‘fortified castle’. The castle received its Renaissance facade when governor Erik Rosenkrantz (1560-68) had the medieval ‘keep by the sea’ converted into a residential tower.

    The Dano-Norwegian absolute monarchy began in 1660. Bergenhus became a military base and any traces of the old royalty vanished. Hakon’s Hall was now a storage building, and its original function would not be remembered for 200 years. The topography of Holmen was altered, and the remains of the old medieval complex are visible only in the area around the old royal palace.

    Bergenhus & Sverresborg’s last major renovation took place when the Napoleonic War started in 1807. Denmark-Norway fought on the side of France.

    History of Bergen

    You can read my detailed historic overview of Bergen by clicking the link below. 

    The History of Bergen

    World War II

    During the Second World War, the German navy used several of the buildings for their headquarters. The Rosenkrantz Tower had the Germans’ radio network.

    One of the country’s worst events during World War II took place at the foot of the Rosenkrantz Tower. On the morning of the 20th of April 1944, a ship loaded with 100 tons of explosive blew up due to a mishap during welding. Since there was no warning, there were heavy casualties on the shore of Vågen. Iron from the ship and stones torn from the pier blew all over the town.

    The blast wrecked Rosenkrantz Tower (though the stone walls remained). The interiors destroyed, including the recent renovation of Håkon’s Hall. The shock wave set fire to the other side of Vågen, destroying many wooden buildings. Previously, the area had been one of the best-preserved enclaves of 18th century buildings in town. The explosion made Bergen one of the most war damaged towns in Southern Norway.

    The Fortress Today

    Bergenhus is open to the general public, and it still has military and civilian functions. Large rock concerts and cultural events take place on the grounds. Bergenhus is under the command of the Royal Norwegian Navy, which has around 150 military personnel stationed there.

    It is possible to walk around the fortress; a trail will guide you. There are two museums on the fortress: the Rosenkrantz Tower and Håkon’s Hall.

    Bergen Fortress Walk

    The Main Gate

    The best place to start is by the main gate. If you are coming with a cruise ship, you will notice there is a gate on the other side of the fortress (no. 31). It’s just a couple minutes to cross through that gate to the main gate. It’s a much quicker walk than taking the main road.

    Parade Ground

    Originally, the third Apostle Church stood on this land. Today, the Parade Ground is an open courtyard. During the summer months, they sometimes have a stage set up for kids performances. If there is a festival, such as the Beer Festival, taking place here, they use the ground for the stalls. Today it’s the main passageway for the Bergen Fortress.

    Rosenkrantz Tower

    King Magnus the Lawmender was the one who built this tower around 1270. The Keep By the Sea had a royal apartment and chapel inside.

    After the capital moved to Oslo, the Keep By the Sea lost its importance. Around 1520, Jørgen Hanssøn renovated the building to a sound state, and today you can still see the Keep by the Sea as it’s the backbone of the modern Rosenkrantz Tower.

    The Present-Day Rosenkrantz Tower

    It was Erik Rosenkrantz who gave the Rosenkrantz Tower its current form. Erik Rosenkrantz was one of the wealthiest men in Denmark-Norway. Erik Rosenkrantz made many changes to Bergen’s structure. For example, he altered the Hanseatic League’s power situation. When he arrived in Bergen in 1559 as the freshly appointed governor, he had spent years warning the King of the Hanseatic’s reluctance against participating in the community. As King Frederik II’s governor, Rosenkrantz had the task of putting Bergenhus to good architectural and military order.

    Stonemasons from Scotland came to incorporate the old keep and Jørgen Hanssøn’s work into a larger residential tower. The new tower is influenced by contemporary Scottish tower architecture. Inside the tower, you can see all three phases of development. The tower looks right down at Bryggen, displaying Denmark-Norway’s old power, especially over the Hanseatic League.

    Construction of the Rosenkrantz Tower finished around 1533. When Scholeus released his print of Bergen in 1580, we see the Rosenkrantz Tower standing tall at Bergenhus. The appearance has been more or less retained throughout the years.

    Fortress Courtyard

    The courtyard has its design from the 18th century. Likely, in Håkon Håkonsson’s time, wooden buildings were standing here. Recent excavations have found traces of old wooden buildings. The previous Apostle Church’s likely stood here as royal chapels.

    Before the Second World War, a lovely garden with trees and flowers were planted in the courtyard. The explosion from World War II damaged the garden, and since then it has been a bare courtyard.

    Fortress Courtyard

    Residence of the Captain, Commander of the Watch

    This is the white building next to the barbican, or directly behind you if you are facing Håkon’s Hall. It was built in 1714 and later connected to Håkon Håkonsson’s barbican. The building sustained extensive damage in the 1944 explosion but has since been restored.

    The Commandant’s Residence

    The Commandant’s Residence is the white building directly opposite the museum entrance to Håkon’s Hall. Originally, King Eirik Magnusson’s ‘Ladies Hall’ from the 1290s stood here. It was probably where the ladies of the court had their place of residence. The Commandant’s Residence was built in 1725 and restored after the 1944 explosion. The appearance is very much the same as the 1725 building.

    All of the whitewashed buildings around the courtyard were built in the early 18th century. Under the white paint, they’d look exactly like Håkon’s Hall and the Rosenkrantz Tower: bare stone!

    Håkons Hall

    The First Håkon’s Hall

    Here’s the most famous and photogenic building at Bergen Fortress: Håkon’s Hall. This is also a museum and you can go inside, and I’ll cover the interior in a separate article. Honestly, the exterior is where it’s at.

    Built sometime between 1247 and 1261, Håkon’s Hall was the royal seat in the Middle Ages, with the King’s Great Hall on the upper floor. Important events such as coronations, royal weddings and important political meetings took place here.

    In the Late Middle Ages, when the capital had moved to Oslo, the original function of Håkon’s Hall lapsed. When the royals visited Bergen in 1450, 1453 and 1486, they likely used Håkon’s Hall for meetings and celebrations. The Hall became a storage room for royal income after Jørgen Hanssøn became governor.

    The Revival of Håkon’s Hall

    National Romanticism in the 19th century saw a renewed interest in the country’s history and old buildings. Håkon’s Hall’s original function was revived in 1840. For the next fifty years, the building saw an extensive restoration. Henrik Ibsen wrote a poem in the halls honour and Henrik Wergeland used the name Håkon’s Hall in one of his poems. Frescoes lined the wall of the interior depicting Håkon Håkonsson’s Saga, and stained glass windows replaced the old windows.

    The explosion in Bergen harbour in 1944 destroyed all the restoration work. Fortunately, the stone walls remained. The hall was restored a second time, though the new decorations are much less detailed and lavish. The hall opened to the public on 11 September 1961, the 700th anniversary of its first use.

    Today Håkon’s Hall is the largest building in the royal palace and the largest secular medieval building in Norway. It was likely the inspiration for Akershus Fortress in Oslo and the royal estate at Avaldsnes. Håkon’s Hall is in use for concerts (especially choir song and chamber music) and banquets (mostly official).

    Jørgen Hanssøn's Wall

    You’ll see the wall as soon as you go through the gate, and it’s well worth walking along it. Jørgen Hanssøn was the Danish lord who oversaw renovations of Bergenhus in the 1520s. He reduced the area of the castle and constructed this wall to outline the boundaries. The new wall replaced sections of the medieval fortifications.

    The Second Stone Walls

    Standing here, you get this incredible view to Håkon’s Hall, and it makes you wonder how everyone assumed this was just a storage building for hundreds of years. The ruins in front of Håkon’s Hall were originally additional stone halls, constructed around the same time. They served as defensive buildings to protect Håkon’s Hall from attacks from the sea but were also residential and functional buildings. The two buildings probably formed an inner courtyard that was the core of the defensive fortifications.

    The Artillery Building

    The artillery building has had many purposes since it was built in the 1750s. For some time, it has been a laboratory and a prison, though not at the same time! During the archaeological surveys of Bergenhus Castle, architect Gerhard Fischer used the building as a residence and office.

    The Old Christ Church Site

    If you walk through the narrow gap in the hedges, you will find yourself on the remains on the old Christ Church. In the Middle Ages, this was the main church in Bergen. Dating back to 1170, the church had the remains of St. Sunniva, the patron saint of Bergen. Two Queens and five Kings have been crowned here, and four kings were interred inside the church. When the site was being developed for military purposes in the early 16th century, the Christ Church was torn down. The work was done so well that archaeologists have been unable to cover but a few traces of it. At the site of the former choir, you can see a statue in memory of St. Sunniva as well as an inscription to commemorate the queens and kings who were crowned and laid to rest here.

    General Mansbach's Avenue

    This part of the park was planted by General Carl Mansbach in the 1830s. Only parts of the park remain. You may notice that the trees have had all their branches cut off; this is because they grow very quickly and there’s a risk of them falling off and hitting someone.

    The Bunker

    After the 1944 explosion, the German’s radio room was damaged. They had Soviet prisoners of war build this bunker in heavily reinforced concrete to withstand air attacks. After the war, the German government gave Bergen some money to destroy the bunker, but instead, they planted the vines on the building to keep it as part of our history.

    The Regimental Building

    Located just behind the bunker, the Regimental Building was completed in 1921 and served as living quarters for the two former regiments from Western Norway. The building was divided in the middle.

    The Main Guard

    Built in the 1700s, the Main Guard has the monogram of King Carl Johan of Sweden and Norway above the gateway. This is because it officially became the Main Guard in 1835 when Carl Johan was ruling. The Main Guard was badly damaged in 1944 but has since been restored.

    Bergen Fortress Museum

    The large white building is the Bergen Fortress Museum. It’s a free museum that has exhibitions on the history of the fortress, World War II, and current activities of the Norwegian Army. It’s a fascinating museum worthy of a visit, and I’ll cover it in a separate article.

    Sverresborg

    The First Sverresborg

    The last stop on this walk is Sverresborg Fortress, but keep in mind it’s an uphill walk and may not be suited for everybody. The history of Sverresborg goes back to the 1100s when the royal residence at Holmen was unfortified and vulnerable. During the civil war, King Sverre constructed two of the first stone forts in Norway: one in Trondheim and one in Bergen. Sverresborg took part in several battles during the civil war, and the site was reinforced by King Håkon Håkonsson around 1250. Sverresborg remained as a medieval fort until around the 1500s. It’s not mentioned much in history, probably because it was overshadowed by the more modern facilities at Holmen. In 1477, the locals complained that the Hanseatic merchants had torn down its walls.

    The Present Form of Sverresborg

    The fortress received its present form in the years 1807-1813 when Denmark and Norway were drawn into the Napoleonic Wars. From the 1830s onwards, a park is situated at Sverresborg. During World War II, the Germans established two anti-aircraft batteries in the fortress. After the war, Sverresborg was used as an execution site in connection with treason. Seven Germans and one Norwegian war criminal were executed at Sverresborg in 1946. The military still uses the site occasionally as a training ground, but the locals like to use it to sneakily watch the concerts at Koengen! Directly under Sverresborg is the residence of the ‘Master of Ramparts’, the oldest part going back to the 18th century. As the very cool name implies, the master of ramparts was in charge of the maintenance and upkeep of the buildings and fortifications. The yellow barracks were used as an academy for petty officers up until World War II, where it sustained heavy damage. Today the building houses the department of the Norwegian Armed Forces.

    I hope you enjoy the walk of Bergen Fortress!

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Hurtigruten, Trondheim, Walking Guides

    Trondheim Self-Guided Walking Tour: Medieval History & Everyday Life

    Trondheim Self-Guided Walking Tour: Medieval History & Everyday Life

    Trondheim is best explored on foot, and if you get the chance I highly recommend it over a bus tour. You can pass some historically important cities as well as modern wonders. For my Trondheim self-guided walking tour, I’ve mapped out a path that I like to take.

    This walk is designed for those on Hurtigruten; it starts and ends at the pier. If you are travelling to Trondheim without Hurtigruten, you can still do this walk. However, I’m going to put together a separate walking path for non-Hurtigruten visitors because you get much more time to explore the city 🙂 For now, though, here’s the walk.

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    Trondheim is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Link to an online map to load into your phone

    The walk: Trondheim

    Pirsenteret

    Pirsenteret is part of the new development this part of Trondheim is seeing. It has historically been a major industrial area with shipping ports and rail connections, but since the late 1990s, there has been an urban renewal program. Pirsenteret is a modern school, shopping & office complex.

    Rockheim

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    Rockheim is Norway’s national museum for popular music and it also includes the Rock Hall of Fame for established Norwegian bands, the most internationally famous being A-Ha.

    Visit the Rockheim Museum website

    Trondheim Central Station

    Image result for trondheim train station

    A railway station was first built in Trondheim in 1864, and in 1877 a new station (the one we see today) was built to serve the Meråker Line to Sweden, which has since become the Nordland Line to Bodø. The older building is the Nordland Line, whereas the newer post-modernist building was built in 1921 for the Dovre Line, which connects Trondheim to Oslo. Today Vy serves the station with express trains to Oslo and Bodø, regional trains to Røros and Ostersund in Sweden, and the local Trøndelag commuter rail.

    The Last Viking Statue

    This statue is to reflect on the fishing traditions that have existed in the area for the centuries. The name comes from a popular book with the same name, written by Johan Bojer. The quote says: “In winter, they would sail 500 nautical miles to Lofoten in their open boats. Perhaps it was only the hint of profit that lured them, but perhaps it was also because of the open sea, they were free men.”

    The statue is situated next to Ravnkloa, which has been a Trondheim port and fish market for centuries, though it was first mentioned in history in 1619. You can see the modern fish market, built in the early 2000s, just behind the statue.

    Stiftsgården

    Stiftsgården is a true highlight of Trondheim; this massive timber building has a fascinating history. It was built between the years 1774-1778 for Cecilie Christine Schøller (1720-1786), who was a wealthy widow of a merchant who had passed away in 1769. She was looking for a private townhouse to settle down in, so she had this 140-room or 4,000m2 (43,000ft2) house built for just her. When the house was finished, she barely used it as she travelled abroad often. When Cecilie passed away in Copenhagen in 1786, the house had been rented by her son-in-law, General Georg Frederik von Krogh (1732-1818), and his son inherited the building. Stiftsgården was sold to the state in 1800 for 10,000 rigsdaler (about 26,427 NOK today) and went through various functions, serving as the house for the Governor, the law courts, and a residence for the visiting Danish Royal Family.

    When Norway became part of Sweden in 1814, the house was used for the coronation of King Carl Johan III (1818). It became the royal residence for the Swedish monarchy, and all Swedish Kings were coronated here. After Norway gained her independence in 1905, it officially became the royal residence of Trondheim, and King Haakon VII and Queen Maud (1906) were coronated here. Each Norwegian king has since had a benediction in Trondheim (as they are now a purely representative figurehead), and the procession has always started from Stiftsgården before reaching Nidaros Cathedral.

    The exterior of the building is very much in its original form, but the interior has changed extensively. The garden was separated as a public park in 1906, and that’s our next stop.

    Stiftsgården Park

    Inside the park, you’ll get a lovely view of Stiftsgården, and you’ll also see a statue of Olav V looking out to the palace. Olav V was always seen as the people’s king, and he was very popular in Trondheim. The statue was placed here in 1997 as part of Trondheim’s 1000-year birthday celebrations.

    Torvet

    The square was designed as part of Cicignon’s town plan of 1681, and before it was laid out the area was a known market square. Torvet has just undergone a major renovation, and nearby archaeological digs have uncovered the original market square. Trust me, the last few years have been terrible at Torvet: construction, congestion and the statue was hard to see. Since 2003, Torvet has been home to Trondheim’s annual Christmas market. The statue is of Olav Tryggvason (Olav I) and it was placed here in 1921. He is 3.5m high and stands on a pedestal that’s 14.5m high. In his left hand is a communion chalice and in his right hand is a sword. At his feet is the head of the god Thor, which symbolises the King’s victory over the pagans. Poor Thor.

    Church of Our Lady

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    Vår Frue Kirke is the third-largest preserved Middle Age church in Norway and first built in the late 1100s. It’s believed that the first version of this church may have been built by King Harald Hardråde (1015-1066) as his saga mentions him building a church near Nidaros Cathedral in 1060. The church has been rebuilt and expanded multiple times due to fires, and got its current appearance in the 19th century, though the tower was built in the early 18th century.

    In 2004, the church was included in the Directorate of Cultural Heritage’s list of 12 churches of national significance. Today Vår Frue Kirke functions as a missionary church, serving lunch to those in need.

    Trondheim Courthouse

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    Trondheim Courthouse was completed in 1951, though construction began before the Second World War. The foundation stone was laid by cabinet minister Trygve Lie, who later became the UN General Secretary. In 2003, the courthouse was merged with other municipalities to become the Sør-Trøndelag District Court (South Trøndelag). The judicial duties of this court are mainly to settle criminal cases and resolve civil litigation. The administrative tasks include death registration, certificate issuing, performing duties of a notary public, and officiating civil wedding ceremonies.

    Trondheim Cathedral School

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    Trondheim Cathedral School is the oldest school in Norway, founded in 1152 as ‘Scholae Cathedralis Nidrosiensis’. It has been in at least five different locations since its founding and moved to its present building in 1786. The school was further expanded in 1960.

    Across the street is the National Museum of Decorative Arts, which opened in 1986 and exhibits textiles, glass, silverwork, costumes, furniture and ceramics from all over Europe.

    Military Buildings

    The Non-Commissioned Officers Academy (Munkegata 6)

    This building was built in 1812-1814 for the Engineer Corps as a depot and was also used as a training college for non-commissioned officers. From 1930 it served as the Officers Academy, which moved in 1975.

    The Exercise House (Munkegata 4)

    The exercise house was built in 1806 as a gym and training centre for soldiers in Trondheim. The gymnasium was 350m2.

    The Military Bakery (Munkegata 2)

    The military bakery was built between 1808 and 1810. It served as a bakery for the military until 1870, after which it became a cobbler and tailors workshop.

    Trondheim City Hall

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    Trondheim City Hall was originally built as the Technical College in 1895, but in 1929 it became the City Hall.

    Nidaros Cathedral

    The iconic Nidaros Cathedral is the northernmost medieval cathedral in the world and is Norway’s national sanctuary.

    Nidaros Cathedral is worthy of its own page, which will come soon.

    Visit the Nidaros Cathedral Website

    Archbishop's Residence

    The Archbishops Palace was originally constructed in 1152 when the Episcopal seat was founded. The stone building we can see now dates back to around 1500. The building served as the residence of the Archbishop until the Reformation when the Danish King confiscated the building and renamed it Kongsgården. During the Danish union, the feudal overlords were based here, and from the end of the 1600s, it was used as a military depot with an arsenal and textile store for the northern troops.

    Today the Archbishop’s Palace is a museum that displays the foundations uncovered during archaeological excavations as well as the statues from Nidaros Cathedral that were recovered in the 19th century. It’s a fascinating museum but sadly there isn’t enough time to visit it during the Hurtigruten stay. Just an excuse to come back to Trondheim!

    Pilgrims Route

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    The 640km (400 miles) journey begins in Oslo’s Old Town and continues north along Lake Mjøsa, up the Gudbrandsdalen valley, over the Dovrefjell mountain range, down the Oppdal valley, and then finishes in front of Nidaros Cathedral. Once you arrive at Nidaros, the nearby Pilgrims Centre (which is located where you are currently standing) has a certificate for you. You have to “sign-in” to special places along the way and collect stamps in your “Pilgrims Passport”.

    The route can be traced back to the Iron Age when it was used as a highway for merchants and travellers. Around 700 Viking-era grave mounds have been discovered in the Oppdal valley, indicating that it was also used by the Vikings. The road was used for hundreds of years, and many settlements along the way developed as places for the travellers to rest and get food. In the mountains, special houses (fjellstue) were built for travellers to seek shelter. It served as a road until the railway line Rørosbanen opened on the 13th of October 1877, connecting Hamar and Trondheim via Elverum and Røros, and then the Dovre Line connected Oslo to Trondheim in 1921. The thought of crossing mountains suddenly lost its appeal and the train sounded much more comfortable, so travel along the road died out.

    Today people still use the Pilgrims Route and it even has a website where you can find sections of the route to complete and tourist attractions along the way. Very few people complete the entire journey, but some parts of it are very popular.

    Gamle Bybro

    The bridge was originally built in 1681 to provide better access to the Kristiansten Fortress. It had a toll booth and a guardhouse with guards at each end – the western guardhouse remains today and is the red concrete building you just passed. Today it’s a kindergarten!

    The archway on the bridge is known as the ‘gateway to happiness’. The warehouses date back to the olden times when extensive trade took place here. In the time of King Sverre (1177-1202), the quays were used as defence barriers. The River Nid runs through Trondheim. It is the northern part of the 153km-long watercourse that has its source in Nesjon in Sweden (950m above sea level). Hydroelectric plants along the river produce electricity to Trondheim and the surrounding areas. The river has been used for industrial purposes since the Middle Ages.

    Trampe

    This is the only bicycle lift in the world. It was installed in 1993 and has a length of 130m, a height of 24m and a gradient that varies from 1:11 to 1:5. The speed is 2m per second and the lift has a capacity of 288 cyclists per hour, with a maximum of 5 cyclists simultaneously. To use it, you stay on your bike and put your right foot over the silver beam. When you press the button, the beam starts pushing you up the hill, and a little footrest will take you to the top.

    Bakklandet

    Bakklandet is an authentic look into old Trondheim. Technically the first suburb of the city, Bakklandet was built up throughout the 17th century as a poor area where seamen, fishermen and manual workers lived in small wooden houses. It was not part of the town plan of 1681, so it developed naturally and not in a grid pattern. Also, as Bakklandet was not part of Trondheim, it was able to continue building in wood. Bakklandet was incorporated into Trondheim in 1847.

    Bakklandet has historically been an industrial area, and from the Middle Ages, a brick factory was located along the river. Today the company is known as “Trondhjems Aktieteglverk”, and brick from Bakklandet had a reputation for high quality. The area was also key for boat building, and from the 1600s boats were being repaired here. Bakklandet has been the victim of the Swedish raids as well as redevelopment. During the siege in 1658, Swedish troops burned down the area, and in 1718 Bakklandet was destroyed by the Norwegian side in an attempt to defend the city. The area was in decline for most of the 20th century and it was anticipated that it would be condemned and demolished, with a highway to be built over it. However, the locals complained and in 1983 a decision was made to preserve the historic houses.

    Today Bakklandet is one of the most charming areas in Trondheim and has many well-cared for (now very expensive!) houses and distinctive cafes. By following Nedre Bakklandet, you’ll get a taste of this lovely picturesque area.

    Seafarers Museum

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    Trondheim Seafarers Museum contains exhibitions around fishing and trading in Trondheim throughout history until the present day, but this wasn’t always the function fo the building. it was originally a defensive structure, and around 1725 a Corps de Garde with a slavery was erected. The current building was built in 1784 after the slavery was moved to Skansen. A slavery was a building where hard punishment was carried out by criminal prisoners. They were common in the 18th century and abolished in the 19th century. This one was one of the last ones standing, lasting until 1885.

    Leif Ericson Monument

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    This statue was given as a gift to the city in connection with the millennium celebrations in 1997. the statue is dedicated to the many thousands of emigrants who left for America in the 19th/20th centuries. The statue is an exact copy of the original that stands in Seattle.

    Leif Ericson was a Norse explorer from Iceland (his parents settled there from Norway) who is believed to be the first European to set foot on continental North America, before Christopher Columbus. He attempted to establish a Norse settlement at Vinland, considered today to be the northern tip of Newfoundland in Canada.

    The E6 Highway

    Trondheim is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Hurtigruten, Tromsø, Walking Guides

    Tromsø Self-Guided Walking Tour: Highlights & Hidden Gems

    Tromsø Self-Guided Walking Tour: Highlights & Hidden Gems

    Tromsø is a city best explored on foot, so I’ve put together a self-guided walking tour based on where I like to go when I’m in the city. I’ve also put this together with the Hurtigruten in mind and the time that has to be taken into account when you’re only in the city for four hours. I took these photos in February 2020 in the middle of winter; hopefully I’ll get some photos this summer to show how different the city looks when there’s no snow!

    Tromsø is one of the most popular places to visit in Norway, and I can understand why. Called the “Arctic Capital of Norway”, Tromsø is located far, far north above the Arctic Circle, making it perfect in summer for the midnight sun or in winter for the northern lights. It’s got museums, restaurants, shopping, various outdoor activities, and countless lovely hotels. It’s also one of the most popular ports on the Hurtigruten, especially when travelling northbound (4 hours in the city!).

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    TROMSØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Practical Info

    • If you are doing this walk during winter, be wary of ice. Tromsø can get very icy, and they don’t always cover the ice with gravel. Some paths are heated, meaning no ice, but you will encounter ice on this trip.
    • This trip can be broken up with visits to the cable car, Polar Museum, and Perspective Museum.
    • If you’re doing this trip while on Hurtigruten, always keep an eye on the time. I did this walk in around 45 minutes (lots of photo-taking stops) with no entrances.
    • Walk length: 1.8km (1.1 miles) / Mostly flat (hilly if detouring to the Catholic Church).

    Tromsø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Arctic Cathedral View

    Completed in 1965, the Arctic Cathedral stands out over the cityscape. The white, glacier-like appearance is supposed to represent the stockfish drying racks, the Northern Lights, and the eleven Apostles that were left after the betrayal. The entire east wall is formed by a huge stained-glass window, one of the largest in Europe, and the organ is built to represent a ship when viewed from beneath.

    The Arctic Cathedral is generally open, but to get there you’d need to take bus 26, explained later in this walk. If you’re in Tromsø for a couple of days, consider attending one of their concerts: https://www.ishavskatedralen.no/en/the-arctic-cathedral/concerts/

    Roald Amundsen Statue

    Since Tromsø was an important harbour area for Arctic exploration, it makes sense to have a statue of Roald Amundsen in one of the town squares. Amundsen (1872-1928) was a Norwegian explorer who led the first expedition to traverse the Northwest Passage by sea and also the first expedition to the South Pole. He also led the first expedition proven to have reached the North Pole in a dirigible in 1926.

    Behind the Amundsen statue is the North Norwegian Museum for Art, a free museum with rotating exhibitions all about life in the north.

    Jewish Memorial

    Tucked away in the corner of the park is a monument for the Jewish members of the community who were deported during World War II. The monument reads: “in memory of the Jews from Tromsø killed in German concentration camps. Erected with deep love by their countrymen. We must never regret”. All 17 Jews were deported from Tromsø. 16 died in 1943, and 1 died in 1945.

    Smørtorget

    This is an old square from the times when Tromsø was an active market down. Called The Butter Market when translated to English, it was a place where farmers came with butter and dairy products to sell. There were plenty of different businesses, though – a bakery, butcher, pharmacy, hotel, barbershop, textiles and souvenir shops. This was also where Tromsø’s first roundabout was – the streets in town were so narrow and horses with carriages needed room to turn. Here the square was wide enough, so they would take a lap around the square before returning home. Nearby were small cottages that were used as a shelter for people coming from afar for church on Sundays, but eventually they became permanent homes of artists and tenants.

    While Smørtorget survived during World War II, the fire destroyed some of the houses, and development in the 1970s destroyed some more of them. There is a cafe in the square called Smørtorget that has some lovely photos and information boards inside. It also doubles as a secondhand shop, so it’s worth going inside for a look!

    Sjøgata 6 (Green Timber House)

    Sjøgata 6 is a green timber house that was built in the mid-19th century and was owned by the Austad family, a wealthy merchant family who owned many properties in Tromsø. For a while, the property was divided into four different apartments where different merchants and traders lived. It became a florist in the mid-1970s and still is today.

    Dreyergården

    This is another example of a 19th-century merchants house – typically merchants houses end in ‘gård’ which means farm or tenement. Dreyer Gården was built in 1837 for Jørgen Dreyer, who had been brought to Tromsø as a servant. He received a merchant licence and, in collaboration with his old employer, formed the company “Killengreen & Dreyer”. Within a few years, they had one of the city’s largest commercial houses, co-owned several shops and exported goods. The son, Christian Frederik Dreyer joined the company and renamed it “JC Dreyer & Son”. After his father’s death, Christian moved into the building. He had spent several years in Russia and had some good contacts within the Pomor Trade. He became known as “Russe-Dreyer” and was one of the largest merchants of Pomor products from the White Sea.

    Tromsø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Aunegården

    Aunegården is another merchant’s house, built in 1860 for the merchant Hilmar Holmeboe. From 1878, it was the home of the local butcher. The butcher operated for 120 years until the business closed down in 1995. Today, it is a restaurant on the lower floor and a hub for Tromsø’s local guides on the upper floor. It was one of the few buildings to survive the 1969 fire.

    *2022 update – the building is no longer used by the guides. 

    Bus 26 Stop: Arctic Cathedral & Cable Car

    Once you reach the Peppes Pizza, you have reached the bus stop for the bus that will take you over to the Arctic Cathedral and Tromsø’s Cable Car. There is a ticket machine at the stop, so buy a ticket and then take BUS 26 to:

    • Arctic Cathedral: Ishavskatedralen
    • Tromsø Cable Car: Fjellheisen

    It takes 5 or so minutes to reach the Cathedral, and then the Cable Car is another 10 minutes away. It is possible to do the cable car within the four hours Hurtigruten is in Tromsø.

    Kystens hus

    You’ll find a fish market inside this building. This is a place where you can buy the stockfish or perhaps try some whale meat. On the walls they have a nice historical photograph and some information about the old fishing business.

    Old Fishing Warehouses

    Here we are on Tromsø’s old harbour! These warehouses were built in the early 20th century after a fire from 1902 destroyed the previous buildings. Originally they would’ve gone out into the water; this walkway was added recently. On the buildings, you can see where the hooks to lift up the barrels of fish used to be, and the wide windows were once openings to put the barrels into the building.

    Polar Museum

    Located in the old customs house from 1830, the Polar Museum is a fascinating museum about Arctic hunting, life, and exploration. The lower floor focuses on Arctic hunting, while the upper floor focuses on the Arctic explorers. It’s a great museum worthy of a visit; allow for 40-60 minutes depending on how much reading you want to do. Nice little souvenir shop, too!

    Old Customs Building

    Across from the Polar Museum, you’ll see a green house with a bust of Roald Amundsen out the front. This is an old customs building and served as the customs house for around 100 years. It was in use until the 1970s and since 1992 has been the administration building for the Polar Museum.

    Skansen

    Skansen is a well-known 13th-century fortification that was built by King Håkon Håkonsson (who also built Håkons Hall in Bergen). The ramparts were built using stones and peat and were constructed as a defence against attacks from the Karelians (from Karelia, an area between the White Sea and the Gulf of Finland) and Russia. Today Skansen is a circular mound with a marked raised outer periphery and a diameter of 50 metres. It’s especially hard to see in winter.

    Knudsen gården

    Knudsen Gården was built in 1822 for the customs officer, and from 1843-1858 the building served as the post office. Well-known 19th-century novelist Bernt Lie lived here during the 1880s. The building has the last city private garden; the others have disappeared throughout the years due to development.

    Aargard Gården

    This was the home of the wealthy and well-known Aargard family, who sold “fish, hides, skin, salt, grain and colonial goods”.

    Ingvald Jaklin statue

    Ingvald Jaklin was a Norwegian politician for the Labor Party who also served as mayor of Tromsø after World War II.

    Seafarers Home

    This beautiful building was built in 1860 as a merchants house but later went on to serve as a hospital. Since 1926, it was a retirement home for seafarers.

    The mine out front is a collection box to gather money for seamen who were made homeless after the submarine wars of 1916. The caption reads:

    “ditt troll – du var sjømannens skrækk sank ham nu klingende mynt i din sækk”. It’s written in Old Norwegian, but it roughly means “You troll (referring to the mine), you were the seafarers fear, sinking him to get coins in your pouch”

    Perspective Museum

    The building was built in 1838 as a large commercial house for the export of cod and fish products and trade of grain, colonial goods, manufacturing and factory products. Today it houses the Perspective Museum, a free exhibition full of photographs of old Tromsø. When I visited, it had exhibitions on LGBT rights and religious history.

    Verdens Theatret

    This is Norway’s oldest cinema that’s still in use, and it dates back to 1915. Inside you can see signs for the Tromsø International Film Festival, which is held in January and includes an outdoor cinema!

    Skancke Gården

    This yellow timber house (now a shop called Nille) is an old merchants house from the early 19th-century.

    Bispegård

    The building on the street corner is Bispegård, or the bishop’s residence. It has been the Catholic bishops residence since 1860. When Pope John Paul II visited Tromsø in 1989, he spent the night here on the 3rd of June.

    Option: If you want to see the world’s northernmost Catholic church, head up the street behind Bispegård. When I did it in February, I found it very icy to the point that I didn’t make it as far as I wanted to (hence the subpar photos). But if you’re doing this in summer, it’ll be fine!

    Catholic Church

    The Catholic Church was built in 1861 and is the world’s northernmost Catholic Episcopal seat with the world’s most northerly Catholic bishop. The church is also the geographical centre of Tromsø!

    You can see that the church is connected to Bispegården, which reveals itself as a truly large building.

    Løkkekiosken

    The little hot dog stand is Løkkekiosken, a treasure of Tromsø. Meaning ‘Onion Kiosk’ in English (even though it’s just named after the owner and not for the shape), this was built in 1911 for 18-year-old Margrit Løkke, who wanted to sell goods from the stall. It was listed as an important cultural monument in 2009.

    World's Northernmost Burger King

    I mean what else can you say about it? Why not go in and get a burger from the world’s northernmost Burger King!

    * It’s actually the second-northernmost Burger King because there’s another one at a shopping mall a few kilometres north. But still, this is close enough

    Tromsø Cathedral

    Tromsø Cathedral is Norway’s only wooden cathedral. It was built in 1861 and seats 600 people. It’s believed that it is built on the site of the previous churches, possibly all the way back to 1252 when the first church was built here. The stained glass windows on the cathedral were designed by Gustav Vigeland and were installed in 1960.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    TROMSØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, Walking Guides

    Bryggen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Bryggen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    When you come to Bergen, you have to go for a walk through Bryggen. Many people wander along the front of these timber houses, browsing in and out of the shops. But there’s a whole world behind the postcard view. And it’s best explored with either a walking tour with a guide or a self-guided walking tour.

    Bryggen has a fascinating story. It is where Norwegians first settled in the city. It’s where trade took off in the country, and it was the largest settlement in Scandinavia until the 16th century. For hundreds of years, Bryggen was operated by the Hanseatic League, a large German trading society. During World War II, Norwegian resistance workers hid in Bryggen. There’s so much to tell. 

    Join my Bergen walking tour!

    I offer walking tours of the Hanseatic area of Bergen with my company I Love Bergen. 

    Bergen Walking Tour

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    What is Bryggen?

    Bryggen (the wharf) is Bergen’s historic trading centre that goes back to the 11th century. While Bryggen was built up as a Norwegian wharf, between 1360 and 1954 the area became a main trading settlement for the Hanseatic League.

    Read more: The Hanseatic League. Simplified.

    After some fires and modernisation efforts, Bryggen is a fraction of what it used to be. There are 61 buildings (or 30%) left, and 25% of them are from 1702, the last time Bryggen burnt down in its entirety.

    Bryggen is the most popular place for visitors coming to Bergen. It’s packed full of Norwegian restaurants, souvenir shops, museums and galleries. The image of Bryggen is on t-shirts, postcards, Norwegian forums and tourism campaigns. Yet, at first glance, these buildings seem unassuming. Bryggen has a fascinating history, and in my self-guided walk, I try to provide an outline of what that history is. This is like the walk I do for groups, and I’ve done this walk hundreds of times. Hopefully, you enjoy it!

    The Walk

    Bryggen Museum

    This tour starts from behind the Bryggen Museum. As you are approaching the museum at the front, walk to the right (between the museum and the Radisson Blu Hotel). You will see that the museum has glass windows on your left-hand side. Look inside the windows to see the first warehouses of Bryggen.

    The First Wooden Buildings

    These are the oldest buildings on Bryggen. They were warehouses and had a similar appearance to the current ones on Bryggen. The difference is that they were single storey and coated in tar. The oldest ones, which are closest to St. Mary’s Church, are from around 1150. Families lived and traded together in these buildings. When they burnt down in 1170, the remains were pushed into the water and the buildings in front were constructed. These new buildings were on the water; with piers out into the harbour.

    Yes, Bryggen we have today is built on the water. About 150m, to be exact.

    The Old Chapel & City Hall

    The square stone building with the entranceway carved out is St. Lawrence’s Chapel. It was built here sometime in the 12th century, but after one of the fires, it was never rebuilt.

    The same goes for the city hall, which is the remains next to the chapel. The city hall had its name from St. Mary’s Church (Maria Guildhall). This is because the original city hall meetings took place in the church graveyard. After one of the fires, the new city hall was constructed further away from Bryggen. Later it, it was moved far away from the Hanseatic League.

    St. Catherine's Hospital

    St. Catherine’s Hospital is Norway’s first hospital for women. It is from some time around 1250 and remained in use until a fire in 1527. The building was then abandoned and forgotten until it an excavation in 1986. It’s believed that (before it burnt down) the Hanseatics were large donors to the hospital.

    There is an information board just inside the building so you can read more about the hospital.

    Buekorps Statue

    The Buekorps is a unique Bergen tradition. It consists of clubs (depending on where you live) made up of boys up to the age of 18. They are something like marching bands; practising through the streets of Bergen. Their main performance is on the 17th of May, Norway’s national day. The Buekorps began in the 19th century. Bored kids started copying the Norwegian army practice marches. Eventually, that developed into the Buekorps. If you are in Bergen in spring or early summer you may hear or even see them! What makes them especially unique is that they carry wooden weapons when they march. You can see this statue is holding a crossbow.

    This particular statue is to commemorate the members of the Buekorps who fell during World War II.

    St. Mary's Church

    St. Mary’s Church is the oldest building in Bergen; built sometime between 1130 and 1170. The towers are a Romanesque style and there are High Gothic characteristics inside. The church received the country’s first stained-glass window in 1336 when a German glass painting was put in the northern wall. The church was important to Bergen. The king may have taken initiative to build the church in cooperation with the citizens of the town. It was most likely built to be the main church of Bergen.

    St. Mary’s is the only church to survive (without major fires) because the Hanseatic merchants loved the church. The Germans controlled the church from 1480 onwards. It was a church for the German congregation in Bergen until 1874. Moreover, the Germans had the resources to maintain the church. They also kept the Reformation from affecting the interior.

    You’ll notice a lot of the graves have German names on them. When the Hanseatic merchant died, they left their fortune to the church were buried here.

    Schøtstuene Museum

    You are standing outside the Schøtstuene Museum, which provides information about how merchants lived in Bergen. When the museum opened in the late 1930s, the Hanseatic merchants had a rather negative reputation in Bergen. The museum aimed at changing this. It represents the spirit of the Hanseatic’s through their games, drinking, meals, and social order. It’s a fantastic museum well worth a detour.

    Schøtstuene Museum

    Bredsgården

    Bredsgården is the most original of the gårder on Bryggen. It was first mentioned in history in 1310 and stands on the same site. It has been rebuilt a few times, for the last time in 1702, but the building style has always been the same.

    The Front of Bryggen

    We are now standing at the front of Bryggen. You’ll see the cobblestone patterns on the front change. The cobblestone path closest to the buildings is as far out as Bryggen used to go. The road and square are from the 20th century.

    On the front of the buildings, you’ll notice each one has a mascot of sorts (lumberjack, unicorn, etc). These were like company logos. It wasn’t common for fishermen to read. When they were arriving with their stockfish, they’d find their Hanseatic merchant according to the logo on the front. They always returned to the same merchant. Often they had relationships spanning generations. If the fishing catch was bad that year, the fishermen could still get the food and tools he needed; like a credit system.

    Enhjørningsgården & The Theta Museum

    This alley, which translates to Unicorn Alley, is dark and narrow. More-so than the others, it gives you the feeling of being in another century. It has the oldest wooden planks, fastened with wooden pegs. The alley also has some of the bare timber (the newest buildings are with wooden planks).

    Svensgården

    These two red wooden buildings used to be connected and belong to Svensgården, the closed-off alley. Svensgården has been closed for over a decade due to extensive rot. I’ve been coming to Bergen for nine years and never walked down it. The red wooden building to the left is the only remaining schøstuene in its original place. Today it’s a restaurant, so you can sit in the same spot the Hanseatics did and enjoy a traditional Norwegian meal!

    Jacobsfjorden & Bellgården

    The small wooden building you’ll see between Jacobsfjorden and Bellgården is an old schøtstuene. It is from the end of the use of Bryggen, so it was constructed in the middle of the alley rather than at the back. Both were separate alleys.

    Bellgården was first mentioned in 1310 and Germans owned it from 1370. Jacobsfjorden used to be called Åfjorden (after a fjord in Sogn) and was first mentioned in 1309. The Munkeliv Monastery owned the building and land in 1399. The stone cellar (which was behind the stockfish statue) is from the 1420s. After a fire in 1476, the two alleys merged and came under German ownership. The name Jacobsfjorden took over in the early 1500s.

    The Brick Buildings

    Lets have a closer look at the brick buildings. When you’re standing on the front of Bryggen, look up to the walls of the brick buildings. You’ll see the coat of arms for various cities; London, Brygge, Skåne (a region in southern Sweden) and so on. These are various Hanseatic cities.

    The date on the building refers to each time it has been rebuilt. This used to be the site of the Kjøpmanstuen, or the main meeting area for the German Office. It was originally built in the late 13th century (first mentioned 1389). The wine cellar was the oldest part of the building and had rooms for serving and warehouses.

    The Kjøpmanstuen was rebuilt after 1476. It is rumoured that shortly after this King Christian II of Denmark had an affair with Dyveke Sigbritsdatter here.

    The Kjøpmanstuen burned again in 1702 and was rebuilt. The wooden structure had two floors with high ceilings. Above the entrance were weapons. The ground floor had a living room and a guard room. This is where all the merchants in Bryggen would have their meetings to discuss important matters. ‘Kjøpman’ means merchant and ‘stuen’ (like schøtstuene) refers to the room.

    Hanseatic Museum

    Finnegården is the last gårder on Bryggen. The building was first mentioned in 1403 but is probably much older than that. Finnegården was owned by Germans from 1414 onwards. It was the largest commercial premise on Bryggen and more equipped than others.

    Johan Wilhelm Wiberg ran trade here between 1866-1898. When he noticed that interest in Bryggen and the Hanseatic League was coming to an end, he took care of the interior of his building and collected objects from the other gården to preserve as much of Bryggen’s old trading environment as possible.

    He founded the Hanseatic Museum, which his son Johan Christian Koren Wiberg developed further. The municipality purchased the building in 1916 to ensure it was never demolished.

    In 2018 the Hanseatic Museum closed for renovation as it was found that the building was sinking. The renovation work is expected to take several years.

    Join my Bergen walking tour!

    I offer walking tours of the Hanseatic area of Bergen with my company I Love Bergen. 

    Haunted Places in Bergen
    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide