Odda

  • Hikes, Odda

    The Reality of Hiking Troll Tongue

    The Reality of Hiking Troll Tongue

    Troll Tongue (Trolltunga in Norwegian) is one of the most famous hikes in Norway. The famous ‘tongue’ hanging over a cliff has become iconic on social media and travel blogs for Norway. Whenever I meet guests in Bergen, the young and fit ones tell me they are going to hike Troll Tongue. But what’s more common is I get guests telling me they are going here and my immediate thought is oh no, you won’t make it. I remember once having to tell them there’d be snow and they’d be risking their lives if they did it in February.

    Why are so many people ill-prepared? Well, it’s easy. They see the photo, they say “I can do that”, and off they go. It’s crazy. I hiked Troll Tongue back in 2016, and I didn’t enjoy it at all. And that was after doing a ton of research. But I vividly remember that as I was doing it, I was passing people in much worse shape than me, people in jeans, people in sneakers, and people without backpacks for food. 

    So, I’ve put together this guide to make it clear exactly what to expect when going to Troll Tongue. While I enjoy hiking, I am not an expert hiker and you should not take my word alone. I’ve tried to provide as many external links to Norwegian sources so you can read about the hike based on expert opinions. 

    The Reality of Hiking Troll Tongue

    The Rv13 Highway

    Odda is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv13 Highway
    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Setting Expectations

    Hiking grade level

    Because the trail is longer than 20km, the trail is automatically listed as an expert hike. However, it is definitely an expert-level hike! Although the trail is well-marked, you must be in very good shape and have excellent endurance. You must also have done mountain hikes before, preferably in Norway. 

    You must feel comfortable walking on uneven surfaces and up steep rock cliffs without things to hold onto. 

    The whole trail has been photographed on Google Maps, so you can get a sense of what the path looks like: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Fy8VgatULGyu4oNZ9 (go into street view after clicking that link)

    In Norway, our hiking website is called ut.no. They have a page for Troll Tongue, and while it’s in Norwegian, you can clearly make out information about the difficulty of the hike: https://ut.no/turforslag/115074/trolltunga-unik-hyfjellstur-ved-hardangerfjorden

    Go with a guide!

    If you are worried about your fitness level or ability to keep to the trail, book a guided tour. Here an expert Norwegian will guide you safely on the trail, assist you, and provide information along the way. 

    I cannot recommend this enough. 

    Read more about guided hiking here: https://trolltunga.com/plan-your-trip/guided-hiking/

    When can you do the hike?

    Hikers can go without a guide from June to September depending on the weather. Never take this at face level without checking the weather. Now in June we had snow a couple days ago. It is absolutely not safe to do Troll Tongue on snow or ice. 

    If you go from October – May without a guide, you are risking your life. The weather is unpredictable and snow or ice on the ground is risky when there are no barriers. Also, you risk getting stuck up there after dark. 

    How many nights do you need a hotel?

    Book your hotel for at least two nights. You can stay in Odda, Tyssedal or Ullensvang. Do not stay in Bergen and head to Troll Tongue for the day.

    Ideally, you should book somewhere for 4-5 nights and then pick the best-weather day of that period to hike Troll Tongue. Use the other days to do easier hikes, take fjord cruises, visit farms and museums, and see beautiful Western Norway. 

    When doing Troll Tongue, try to start no later than 7am. 

    What to bring

    You need to be wearing high quality, waterproof hiking boots. Bring with you very good clothing as you may be suddenly exposed to rain or cold weather without much warning. It is very important to bring lots of food and water. Do not wear jeans, trainers, or other everyday clothing.

    Also wear sunscreen! While we don’t have a high UV index, the sun is high above you for long periods of the day and can feel harsher than standing on a beach in Australia. 

    I remember I brought clean socks and was so so happy about it when I got to put them on. I wish we had brought a thermos with hot water and those meals that you hydrate. You can buy them in Norwegian outdoor shops. Look for this brand “Real Turmat” (click here). 

    Here’s a guide for what to wear and pack: https://trolltunga.com/plan-your-trip/equipment/

    Safety first

    If I haven’t yet convinced you to come fully prepared, here’s a video that was made by some Norwegians about what to expect on the mountains. 

    There is mobile phone coverage for most of the trail. However, do not rely on your phone for navigation. Have a printed map with you. 

    Click here for a basic map of Troll Tongue. 

    If you are reading online blogs about the hike, consider the source. I do understand the irony in this, but don’t read blogs from travel bloggers who came to Norway once, did the hike, and left. Read from official, Norwegian sources. Travel bloggers don’t have a realistic understanding of the hike and their fitness level may be different to yours. Even on this guide, I’m trying to provide as many external links as possible to Norwegian sources. Don’t trust my judgement alone – read everything and determine for yourself if you can handle the hike.

    Here is a great guide from VisitNorway about hiking safety: https://www.visitnorway.com/things-to-do/outdoor-activities/hiking/tips/

    Doing the hike

    Okay, you are sure you can do Troll Tongue. That’s great! Now let’s go through the practical bits. 

    Where to park and start the hike

    There are two parking lots – P2 and P3. The difference between the two is where they start. P2 starts at the foot of the mountain, while P3 starts 1km into the hike and skips the most challenging part of the hike – the steep, up-hill ascent. When I did the hike, there was no P3. In fact, they opened it one year after I did the hike, something I’m still a little bitter about.

    Anyway, if you are absolutely not an up-hill person then you want to go to P3. Trust me, you want to go to P3 unless you are a very skilled hiker. That first 1km of hiking involves pulling yourself up on ropes and climbing up rocks. If you start from P3, you conserve a lot of energy and save a lot of time.

    P3 does having parking spaces, but it is extremely limited and it’s highly likely you won’t get a park there. There is also a shuttle bus that takes you up there, which makes much more sense.

    Take the shuttle bus

    You can find shuttle bus information here: https://trolltunga.com/parking-and-transportation/shuttle-buses-and-taxi/

    How long does the hike take?

    If you start walking from P2, allow 8-12 hours for the 27km round-trip hike. If you start walking from P3, allow 7-10 hours for the 20km hike. Note that this depends heavily on your fitness level and the weather. We had pouring rain for half of the hike and it took considerably longer than planned.

    What to expect on the hike

    That first part (now skippable with the P3 carpark) was the most challenging part of the trip. Once you get part it, there is an excellent, well-marked trail. There is another steep climb about 45 minutes into the hike at what’s called the Gryteskaret Pass. This is one of the most strenuous stretches for the hike. You must be able to navigate yourself on uneven rocks.

    There will be another steep climb up to the Tromeskar pass, and from here you’ll be at a grassy valley very popular with campers. Shortly after passing that steep climb, you’ll make it to a view of the Ringedalsvatnet lake below in the valley.

    As you get closer to Troll Tongue, the trail will narrow, and you should be mindful of the high drop.  

    Overall, the trail is solid and well-marked because it is such a popular tourist attraction. Signs along the trail show the remaining distance to both Troll Tongue and back to the beginning of the trail.

    On the trail, it is possible to drink the natural water. However, do not drink water close to cabin areas or until you have reached the first emergency shelter just before Floren, about halfway to Troll Tongue. It’s better to fill water from a running stream than from a lake but be advised that water may contain impurities after heavy rainfall.

    There are no public toilets on the trail. Use the toilets at the parking lots before going up. Keep your toilet stops on the mountain far away from streams and lakes and downhill from trails.

    You must bring all your trash down from the mountains.

    Snow & rain

    It’s very common to see snow up here. In fact, it’s not recommended to hike the trail in May due to the risk of snow and ice. There are no barriers, so one slip in the wrong direction and it’s all over.

    Even in late June you may encounter patches of snow and cross streams, so waterproof boots are important and be sure to pack some extra socks.

    If you see rain forecast, do not go. There are no safety barriers and rocks become slippery when wet. If it means you miss hiking the trail altogether, so be it.

    Emergency shelters

    Two emergency shelters are located along the trail in case of a sudden storm or other emergency. The emergency shelters have sleeping bags, blankets and food rations.

    Save this in your phone: The emergency number

    The emergency number is 112.

    Arriving at Troll Tongue

    There is often a queue to go and stand out at Troll Tongue. It is likely that you will have to wait up to 90 minutes just to get out there and get the famous photo. When you get out there, stay a couple feet back from the edge of the cliff. People have fallen from here in the past.

    Wrapping up: Hiking Troll Tongue

    I live in Bergen, and we hear all the time in the news in summer about tourists getting stuck on the mountains and having to be rescued. It’s become a huge argument in the country if we should do more to prevent tourists from taking these hikes since they are so unprepared. If you want to do this hike, do your research. Read from official, Norwegian websites and study the trail on Google Maps. Get a printed copy of the map and buy good quality hiking gear. Seriously consider booking a guide to go with you. Make the right decisions. Don’t skip essential parts because you are short on cash or time. At the end of the day, is risking your life worth it for a photo? No, not really!

    Also, don’t do this hike just for the shot for Instagram. There are so many wonderful hikes around Norway, and many with arguably better views, so you don’t have to do this one just because it’s famous. Why waste your day queuing for 90 minutes for the photo when you can choose a less challenging hike with better views and no crowds?

    When I did the hike in 2016, I researched the trail extensively, went with a group, and even had my husband’s cousin come with us (he is an experienced hiker in Norway) who brought food, shelter, and helped us on the trail. However, we made many mistakes. We went on a day when rain was forecast and had a very challenging time getting back down the mountain after visiting Troll Tongue. In hindsight, it was completely unsafe. Now, eight years later and wiser and with lots of experience hiking around Western Norway, I would go back and do it again and probably do a lot better.

    All in all, there’s no shame in saying “this isn’t for me”. But if you do decide to go, make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into. 

    The Rv13 Highway

    Odda is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv13 Highway
    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Troll Tongue is located close to Odda, and you should be staying in Odda for at least two nights during your hike. Read my travel guide for Odda above. 

  • Hardangerfjord, Norway, Odda, Ulvik, Utne

    Add Utne to Your Hardanger Road-Trip

    Add Utne to Your Hardanger Road-Trip

    Back in June of 2022 I got the last-minute opportunity to lead a group to Utne in Hardanger. I’ve been to Hardanger many, many times (my husbands family is from Ulvik), but I’d never made the time to take the ferry across to Utne. So, of course, I took the job and off I went with a group of Americans. Boy, was I surprised.

    I had read about Utne and knew it was picturesque and charming, but I was surprised by just how lovely it was. We took the ferry across from Kinsarvik and then walked to the Hardanger Folk Museum. After having a guided tour through some of the outdoor buildings, we had lunch and free time to explore before we took the ferry back to Kinsarvik.

    You don’t need a guide to do Utne, and you can definitely overnight there. Utne doesn’t get the big tour buses and masses of caravans that other places in Hardanger get, so it almost feels like a well-kept secret being there. The village is very popular with Norwegians, though.

    Utne in Hardanger
    Looking out at Utne from the Folk Museum

    Utne is easily one of the most picturesque villages that you’ll find in Hardanger. Unlike many other towns that have succumbed to modernisation and development, Utne has preserved its old streets and wooden houses. It also has some of the most spectacular views out to the Hardangerfjord.

    I’ve put together an overview of the highlights of Utne so you can be convinced to add it to your Hardanger road-trip!

    In this article...

    Eidfjord Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    First off, how do you get there?

    Utne is easily accessible by ferry or road (though it does look very isolated on a map!). There is a ferry route linking Utne to both sides of the fjord. One ferry goes from Kinsarvik to Utne, while the other goes from Kvanndal to Utne.

    It is possible to drive to Utne via Odda or Jondal, but the roads are narrow and the drive is time consuming. If you can, take a ferry.

    Tip – I would strongly recommend leaving your car at the ferry pier and taking the ferry over as just a person. It’s free for people to take the ferry without a car, and Utne is so walkable you don’t need a car.

    Utne's History

    Being a small village of 146 people, there’s no extensive records of Utne’s history. However, people have lived here for hundreds of years and they relied heavily on the fruit production that came to Hardanger in the 13th century. Utne is regarded as one of the best places to grow fruits, so the villagers relied on production every year to support themselves.

    These days Utne is less about fruit production and more about tourism, but fruit production is still extremely important to the area.

    Utne Hotel

    The first building you’ll see off the ferry is the Utne Hotel. The Utne Hotel is the oldest hotel in continuous operation in Norway, founded in 1722. Part of the hotel is from the 18th century, but a large part has been expanded and added on to. The largest development was in the late 19th century, when the hotel got its characteristic Swiss style of architecture. The last extension was in the 1930s.

    What’s fascinating is that the hotel has historically been managed by strong women. One of the old hostesses has earned the nickname ‘Mother Utne’ and she ran the hotel for 70s. She was apparently known all over Europe for her hospitality. There’s a silver wreath in the restaurant dedicated to her.

    There are only 17 rooms in the hotel, and each one is unique. It makes it feel extra special and exclusive, but this is also reflected in the price. Rooms go for about 5000 NOK a night.

    You can also visit the hotels restaurant and have a meal or take part in their cider tasting.

    If you want to stay somewhere a little more budget friendly, try the Hardanger Gjestegård. This historic guesthouse dates from 1898 and feels like a museum inside with its wooden panels and old furniture. It’s located about 10km out of Utne.

    You can visit their website here.

    Utne Church

    The white wooden church just above the hotel is not a historic church; it was built in the late 19th century after the locals wanted to stop taking the boat across to Kinsarvik Church. They had to raise the money to build the church themselves, so it did take some time. The church seats about 300 people. It’s just a few minutes walk from the ferry pier.

    Hardanger Folk Museum

    The Hardanger Folk Museum is one of the true delights of visiting Utne. The museum is a little hilly, but it’s well worth the climb.

    Reconstructed farm

    The museum was founded in 1911 and features a reconstruction of a traditional cluster farm. The oldest building is a medieval log house with a central open fire. The museum also has shops, businesses and mini factories from all over Hardanger.

    You can visit their website here.

    Birch roofing

    Preserved painting inside one of the farm houses

    Old beer bowl

    Down by the water are some well-preserved boathouses with traditional Hardanger boats.

    Hardanger fiddles on display

    Meanwhile, the indoor exhibitions focus on Hardanger folk costumes and folk music, in particular the Hardanger fiddle.

    Hardanger bunads

    Hardanger embroidery

    Inside you’ll also find a lovely cafe. A special treat about the museum is that they produce their own cider and juice, which is only available from the museum. This also brings me to the next reason to come here…

    Apple trees can be seen everywhere!

    Incredible Hardanger Fruits

    Utne is perfectly situated if you want to try the fruits grown in the Hardanger region. 1km from Utne is Norway’s largest fruit warehouse where plums, apples, pears and other fruits are sorted and packed. The region is also famous for its cider production, and you can buy cider from most farms.

    Utne is actually considered one of the best places in Hardanger for fresh fruit, and for many years the village relied on its fruit production.

    I am a huge fan of apples from Hardanger, and can never turn down the locally made apple juice. The ciders can be quite sweet, but they are also delicious.

    Hike it off!

    Utne is surrounded by short and long hikes. Close to the ferry pier you’ll find a map of all the hikes in the area.

    Eidfjord Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Hardangerfjord, Odda, Stave Churches

    Røldal Stave Church

    Røldal Stave Church

    Røldal Stave Church is a special church. With its position on the edge of three counties and the road between east and west, Røldal has welcomed travellers for thousands of years. The stave church became an important pilgrimage site (the second-most important after Nidaros Cathedral) for these travellers. After all, the crucifix that has hung in the church for 1000 years was known to have healing powers.

    I got to visit the Røldal Stave Church in September 2020. While the inside was closed, the outside is as beautiful. While churches in Norway can blend into one another, each one stands out for its story. I’ve put together an overview of the history of this church so you can see why it’s so special to visit.

    In this article...

    The E134 Highway

    Røldal Stave Church is located along the E134, a major highway between east and west Norway. You can find my guide for the E134 by clicking the link below.  

    The E134 Highway
    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Røldal Stave Church

    The Røldal Stave Church dates back to around 1250 and the architect is unknown. Like many stave churches, Røldal Stave Church has changed in appearance since its construction. Originally, the church was a singular room, but it has since received a bell tower and choir out the back.

    The church before the last renovations between 1915 and 1918 (Source)

    The first major renovation took place after the Reformation in the 16th century. Inside the church, Lutheran decorations replaced Catholic ones. Further renovations took place in 1884 when the stone floor was removed and sold at an auction. The last renovations were in 1915-1918, giving the church its current appearance. Removing the 19th-century panelling revealed the Renaissance interior. A new gallery protects the walls and a new foundation wall is under the church. It’s likely the old cultural layers of the church are still under the main room (ship).

    The Crucifix (Source: VisitNorway)

    The Crucifix

    As mentioned above, Røldal Stave Church is famous for its crucifix. This crucifix isn’t any crucifix; it has healing powers.

    Legend has it that a blind man found the crucifix while fishing. He caught something heavy, and when he raised it a Christ picture appeared in the sea. They tried to lift it into the boat, but it was too heavy. The man struggled for so long that swear pored from his brow into his eyes. He had to let go and wipe his eyes – he then suddenly had his sight restored! He understood a miracle happened to him and resumed struggling to get the Christ, vowing to donate it to a church. Only when he mentioned Røldal Church did the crucifix lighten and he was able to lift it. He rowed to shore and gifted it to the church.

    It’s said that every Midsummer Eve the church sweat, and this sweat could heal the ill. When Lutheran became the main religion, attempts to stop this ‘cult worship’ became common. Worshipping icons in the Lutheran religion is idolatry and forbidden by the church.

    Even so, mass took place every Midsummer Eve. This lasted until 1835, when the Provost Ole Nicolai Løberg visited Røldal, saw what was happening, and forbid it. Still, pilgrims continued to visit the crucifix until 1850, when the practice ended.

    Today, the crucifix is the only surviving cult object in Norway’s pilgrim churches.

    The church is a votive church, meaning that it received large donations from the pilgrims. The small village became very prosperous and grew quickly.

    The altar and baptismal font (Source: Wikipedia)

    Interior Decoration

    Sadly, most of the interior decoration is now in the Bergen Museum. This includes wooden sculptures of St. Olav and Mary and Baby Jesus from around 1250, and the archangel Michael from around 1200. Yet, the crucifix is still located in the church.

    The church has staves, but they are only in the corners. Most stave churches have a raised central space, making the staves much more visible. The baptismal font is soapstone and dates back to around the time the church was built, as is the crucifix. The altarpiece is from Lutheran times, around 1629.

    Legend has it there was a cod backbone on the wall for some time. The story goes that two men were fishing in the Røldal Lake, which is freshwater and has no cod. One of the men, who were not from the village, said: “Røldal Church is no more a healing church than there is no cod in Røldal Lake!” Soon after, his fishing line began pulling, and he pulled up a cod! The backbone hung in the church for some time. I love a good legend, whether there is much truth to it.

    Is it a stave church?

    During the renovations in 1844, questions arose about the construction of the church. The building method differs from other stave churches. An investigation into the construction method took place. The resulting opinion is that the church may not be a stave church. Some believe that the church is a post church; the predecessor of the stave church. When categorising the church, it is like the Møre-type stave churches.

    Detailing around the main door

    Architecture

    The church is a rectangular-shaped nave and chancel with a saddle over the roof. There are similarities to Finnesloftet in Voss, one of the oldest buildings in Norway. Unlike stave churches, Røldal Stave Church does not have a decorated panel. Furthermore – it is one of few stave churches to rest on a stone foundation.

    Memorial outside the church

    Outside the church is a memorial stone commemorating the people from Røldal who helped in the fight for freedom independence from Sweden in 1905.

    Visiting the church

    Røldal Stave Church is located 44 mins (42km / 26 miles) from Odda and 5 mins (4.1km / 2.6 miles) from the Ryfylke Scenic Road/Horda.

    It is possible to take a public bus from Odda. From the stop Røldalsvegen ved gågata in Odda downtown take the number 930 bus towards Odda-Seljestad vekt for 16 stops / 36 minutes until you reach Seljestad vektstasjon. From there, take the bus number NW180 towards Oslo Bus Terminal for three stops (20 mins) until you reach Bruleitet. It’s then a 6 minute walk to the church. It’s worth noting that the second bus is a regional bus and therefore does not run regularly, so you really have to plan your time.

    Most people drive to Røldal Stave Church.

    The church is open during the summer months for a small fee. Click here to view current opening information.

    Parking is free and in front of the church. There are toilets on the property, but they are only open during the summer

    The E134 Highway

    Røldal Stave Church is located along the E134, a major highway between east and west Norway. You can find my guide for the E134 by clicking the link below.  

    The E134 Highway
    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Odda

    Why Låtefossen is One of Norway’s Best Waterfalls

    Why Låtefossen is One of Norway’s Best Waterfalls

    Norway has a lot of waterfalls.

    If you’ve been to Norway, or are planning your trip, you’ll know there are waterfalls everywhere. Some waterfalls are ‘famous’, with signage, parking and maybe even a souvenir shop. They are famous for a reason: not only are they huge, wild, unique, or gorgeous. They were some of the first tourist attractions in Norway.

    And Låtefossen is one of them.


    The Odda Valley has the nickname “the valley of waterfalls”. The area was utilised in the 20th century to develop heavy industry around the waterfalls. Today, though, many of the factories are gone. The Odda Valley is a very scenic drive. Not all the waterfalls are accessible from the highway, but luckily Låtefossen is.

    Låtefossen is located just a short drive outside Odda in Western Norway. It is famous for its photogenic and historic stone vault bridge crossing the waterfall at its strongest point.

    What I think makes Låtefossen one of the best waterfalls in Norway is a blend of its history and its natural beauty. This waterfall isn’t just a stream of water shooting off a mountain; it’s got a story. When I know the story of a place, I find that I always appreciate it more.

    Below you’ll find my overview of Låtefossen, including its past and present-day.

    In this article...

    The Rv13 Highway

    Låtefossen is located along the Rv13, a major highway along western Norway. You can find my guide for the Rv13 by clicking the link below.  

    The Rv13 Highway
    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Brief history of Låtefossen

    Tourism to the waterfall

    Odda grew as a cruise destination in the 19th century (you can read about this in my article about the history of Odda), and Låtefossen was a prized attraction. When cruise ships docked in Odda, farmers with horse carriages would collect tourists. They would make the journey up to Låtefossen, and a small hotel there sold coffee. Only the ruins of the hotel remain today.

    English and German visitors were in awe of the waterfall. Here’s a snippet of what they said:

    It is only when you stand on a small hill, where the restaurant is built, that you get the right view of this sea of ​​foam, steam and spray, for the amount of water you do not see anymore. White water-veils wave over the waterfall and twinkles and lightning in all the colours of the rainbow in the sunshine. But this is not all: Directly opposite these two-dimensional, gigantic, ancient waterfalls, an equally beautiful, white, blurry, undulating mass, Espelandsfossen, plunges over a vertical rock wall. When you stand on a beautiful green spot in one of the most picturesque valleys in the world, and look at Låtefossen, Skarsfossen and Espelandsfossen that greet each other, then this is a picture that is too big to say, and which there is hardly any like in all of Europe.

    https://www.nb.no/items/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2014021906378

    Road Construction

    In the early years of tourism, there was no bridge. The construction of the road between east and west Norway promoted the need for a bridge. Construction of the bridge ended in 1859. Yet it wasn’t long before the bridge became narrow for the large increase in traffic.

    During the mid-1940s, the bridge was expanded by 2m – it is now 6m wide. The part that is in all the photographs today is from the newer extension; we don’t see the old bridge.

    With an increase in cars, expansion of the bridge finished in the 1960s. The bridge you see in the photos is this new bridge.

    Waterfall Facts

    Låtefossen is among 93 watercourses that are permanently protected under a conservation plan in Norway. Of the famous waterfalls in the Hardanger region, it is the only one that is not regulated for hydropower.

    The source of the water is Lotevatnet Lake, which is 340m high up on the mountain. The lake flows down in two separate streams. They join together and flow under the bridge into the river Grønsdalslona. The height of the waterfall is 165m (541ft), though this is debated as topographic data shows this to be incorrect. [mfn]https://snl.no/L%C3%A5tefoss[/mfn]

    The strength of the waterfall depends on the seasons. It is the strongest in spring when the snow is melting. Moreover, heavy rainfall also results in a strong waterfall. My photos are from September 2020, when we’d had about two weeks straight of rain.

    There are possibilities to walk around the area and get a better photo. For example, the ruins of the old hotel provide a more unique overlook. However, the vast majority of people stay in the car park – I explain this more below.

    Memorial statue

    Statue in the carpark

    There’s a German statue in the car park, not too far from where I was standing to take all the photos in this article. The statue is a memorial for Gustav von Hahnke, a German military officer, and it was erected by Kaiser Wilhelm II. It reads:

    For Lieutenant Gustav von Hahnke. onboard the Hohenzollern 11.07.1897 who died in this spot.

    He had been on a bike trip on the mountain when he fell. It took some time before his body could be recovered. Gustav vacationed with Kaiser Wilhelm II every year in Odda over the summer holidays.

    My thoughts

    I’ve visited the waterfall twice – in April 2018 and September 2020. When I visited in April, it was completely frozen and the bridge was covered for renovations. As you can imagine, I was not so impressed.

    The second time I visited, in September 2020, the husband and I were doing our Ultimate Norwegian Roadtrip. I wanted to snap a quick picture before we made our way to Stavanger. I was very impressed with how strong the waterfall was. It’s cool to see it blowing over the road. And we had it almost to ourselves thanks to the pandemic that destroyed tourism in 2020.

    You don’t need to spend much time there; we were there around 10 minutes. Of course, it was pouring rain and we didn’t want to venture too far from the car. If it had been good weather, I would’ve sought out the path to the hotel and spent a little more time there.

    If you’re in the area, it’s well worth stopping at Låtefossen!

    Practical information

    Getting there

    It is possible to take a public bus from Odda. From the bus station, take bus 930 called Odda-Seljastad for 18 mins (12 stops) until you get to Skarsmoen. From there, it’s a 1.5km walk to the waterfall.

    Most people get to the waterfall by car; it is a 20 minute drive from Odda centre.

    Parking

    If you are driving away from Odda, the parking space is on your side of the road. The parking area is very small and there are no guidelines as to how to park your car. Basically, in summer it becomes something of a ‘free for all’ with caravans, buses and cars squeezing around each other to find a space to park. Even when I visited in September without tourism, I barely got a park due to so many caravans. Many of the TripAdvisor reviews mention how bad parking is. The best thing you can do is go early in the morning or late in the afternoon, or just cross your fingers that it’s not so busy.

    Viewpoint

    The viewing point is practically the same block as the parking area. There’s no special platform or path to take to get to the viewing point. You park and make your way to the end of the parking lot.

    You can’t walk onto the road that goes over the waterfall. It’s the main highway to/from Oslo, and there are trucks and cars speeding past.

    Facilities

    Across the road from the parking lot is a kiosk/souvenir shop that’s open in summer. I’m not sure why they put it on the other side of the road as it means you have people running across a main highway to get to either spot. The restrooms are also there – they are only open in summer

    The Rv13 Highway

    Låtefossen is located along the Rv13, a major highway along western Norway. You can find my guide for the Rv13 by clicking the link below.  

    The Rv13 Highway
    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • History, Odda

    The History of Odda

    The History of Odda

    For me, Odda is a small, industrial town close to lots of beautiful places. But Odda itself is not exactly beautiful; the large factories overshadow the small town. The Netflix series Ragnarok used Odda as its setting to critique the heavy industry in the town. Odda is on the first day of my Ultimate Norwegian Roadtrip, so I took the time to read up on the town. And boy, the history of Odda is fascinating.

    I’ve put together a summary of my History of Odda notes for this article. I am a tour guide and not a historian, so this article is a collection of my notes. I have included a list of resources at the bottom of this article.

    Here’s the history of Odda.

    In this article...

    The Rv13 Highway

    Odda is located on the Rv13, a major highway through western Norway. You can view our guide for this drive by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv13 Highway
    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The Early Years

    The name ‘Odda’ comes from an old farm that stood close to where the Odda Church is today. At the time, churches are on the largest farms; this is a sign of wealth. Until the 19th century, Odda was a small farming community. In 1801, there were 10 houses in Odda with a total population of 59.

    19th Century Tourism

    Odda’s growth begins with tourism. In Norway, tourism starts in the 19th century. Many fjord towns (for example Flåm and Geiranger) emerged as legitimate towns and not just isolated communities. The same thing happened with Odda; cruise ships began making the journey into the Sørfjorden and docking in Odda. Once on land, farmers with horses greeted the tourists and took them to see nearby attractions.

    Thanks to tourism, Odda grows rapidly. By 1900, the population had risen to 383. The Hotel Hardanger opens to accommodate the rise in tourists. Sadly, it burns down in a major fire in 1895; this is an event the Odda locals consider to be one of their most devastating. However, just 10 months later, a new Hotel Hardanger is standing.

    Tourists in Odda

    Who came to Odda? Many visitors were English, but there were also some celebrities. Most famous is the German Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm II. He vacationed in Norway all the time and visited Odda every year between 1891 and 1914. He gifted the town with its first hospital and many fire hydrants. Kaiser Wilhelm is famous throughout Norway because he is the one who helped to rebuild Ålesund after their devastating fire. Maybe he didn’t want the same thing to happen in Odda!

    The new Odda Church is from in 1870, one year after the historic church is torn down. The old church is from 1250, but it was too small for the growing community. The new Odda Church seats 500 people.

    Industrial Growth

    Shortly after the cruise ships began coming to Odda, industrialists began to visit. They saw the potential of building industry here. After all, Odda has many waterfalls and watercourses that can produce electricity. Waterfall buyers (yes, that is a thing) at the time were travelling Norway to buy waterfalls. Most buyers came from overseas, and 75% of developed waterfalls are by foreigners. It’s important to note that Norway at the time is a poor country with little skills. The foreign companies didn’t keep it to themselves; they taught Norwegians how to do it. The same goes for the oil industry in the 1960s. The ice-free harbour only furthers interest in building up Odda.

    Albert Petersson

    Professor Albert Petersson came to Norway from Sweden to find a place to build a factory that produced carbide and cyanamide. Honestly, explaining what those are is beyond me, so you can click them to read about them. Anyway, he found Odda and waterfalls. The factory is built in record time and creates hundreds of new jobs. It is the largest in the world at the time. In 10 years, the population rises from 383 to 3077.

    Most importantly, Odda Fabrikkane employs around 1000 people. The daily wage is 4-5 NOK for 10 hours of work, well above the standard salary for the time; a good suit costs 15 NOK. The company builds houses and apartments for its workers, some of which you can still see today.

    Meanwhile, neighbouring Tyssedal is undergoing the same rapid growth. A hydropower plant is built within two years and begins supplying electricity on 4 May 1908. Odda is one of the first towns in Norway to get electric power for lights and simple appliances in 1913.

    Decline of tourism

    Of course, the rapid increase in industry causes an effect on tourism. What was once an idyllic, natural and clean destination for travellers is now overcrowded and polluted. Hotel Hardanger turns black from the emissions, and the smog covers the fjord. The hotel tries to sue the factory for damages, but it is not paid out until 1922. The hotel is already bankrupt by then.

    Cruise ships continue to come to Odda until World War I, but they stay on the ship instead of the hotel.

    World War I

    More importantly, Odda grinds to a halt when World War I breaks out. While Norway remained neutral throughout the war, it had a huge impact on the industry in the country. 1000 men are fired in one day, and a couple of days later only 700 men are left in Odda. Also, Dr. Albert Petersson disappears; he is travelling to England on a ship when no one sees him fall overboard in the middle of the night.

    The road between Odda and Tyssedal begins construction in 1916; they use mostly factory workers that are laid off.

    It is not all bad for Odda, though. the Odda factories are producing calcium cyanamide, a chemical fertiliser. Until after World War I this was the chief alternative to nitrate fertiliser. It also serves as a raw material in chemical compositions, for example in the explosives.

    The 1920s

    Firstly, war and smoke have put a stop to tourism, and Odda has too many hotels. Most of them are empty all year round. As a result, Hotel Hardanger is sold to the municipality and converted into the town hall.

    Secondly, the chemical industry in Odda is based on war production. After the war, there is a great deal of overproduction and large stocks. Odda Fabrikkane goes bankrupt and shuts down in 1921. In Tyssedal, the Nitriden factory – one of the world’s largest producers of crude aluminium – goes bankrupt and closes a couple of weeks later. 1000 people are unemployed as a result of these two factories closing.

    Despite this, forced labour in the 1920s and 1930s leads to Odda getting 103km of new roads.

    In 1924, the factories merge under the name Odda Smelteverk. They have the purpose of running factories and selling chemical and metallurgical products. Many of the unemployed get their jobs back, but it doesn’t last too long.

    Five years later, the economic crisis of 1929 leads to record unemployment in Odda. In 1935, around 15% of all Norwegians depend on public poverty relief to make ends meet. In Odda, 900 people are unemployed. The huge unemployment makes the welfare expenses are too high and the municipality goes bankrupt in 1932.

    World War II

    The first indication of World War II coming to Odda was on 3 April 1940 (6 days before Germany invaded Norway). A German plane dropped a bomb on a pile of stones on the hillside, followed by more German planes dropping bombs to spread fear. One hits a house and crushes it, while another one hits a cafe.

    Germans don’t arrive in Odda until the 15th of May, over one month after the initial invasion. At the first meeting of NS (the Nazi Party of Norway) in Odda, few people attend while hundreds protest outside. There is an active resistance movement in Odda throughout the war. On 1 March 1943 nine locals are executed at an internment camp in Oslo.

    The Germans are drawn to Odda with its various factories, and they begin exploiting the aluminium factory as well as building their own. However, development is too slow and they abandon plans in 1943. They are building on agricultural land, and it is now destroyed.

    The 1950s

    Things are looking up for Odda in the 1950s. A new hospital, city hall and school are finished using taxes from the factories.

    Moreover, in 1961, the road between Odda and Tyssedal is (finally) finished. In 1968 the European Highway 134 finally opens too – it is the oldest open winter road connection between east and west Norway.

    The 1970s

    In 1970, the population of Odda is 10,000. To make way for modern housing, historical buildings are torn down. This includes the historic Hotel Hardanger.

    Fixing Pollution

    In the 1970s, more attention and care is being given to how much these factories are polluting. And boy, is Odda polluting.

    It starts with the Norwegian state introducing a law that Norwegian companies must report their marine discharges. One factory in Odda alone dumps 600 tonnes of waste material per day into the fjord.

    The Sørfjord is declared one of the most metal-polluted water areas in the world, and it is spreading into the Hardangerfjord.

    The zinc factory begins the first purification measure. It builds a purification factory for mercury. Their method eventually becomes an important example of environmental technological innovation that reduces global pollution of mercury. Another plant builds mountain halls to store waste. By the end of the 1980s, emissions in the fjord are reduced by 99%.

    Ways to reduce pollution are still ongoing in Odda, with new methods of recycling and reduction constantly developed.

    Preserving the history of Odda

    By the 1990s, the situation for Odda Smelteverk is not looking good. The factory goes bankrupt in 2002.

    In the 1990s, the end of a factory in Odda does not mean huge unemployment. New industries are growing in Odda, and the dependence on factories is declining. Meanwhile, the history of Odda and its industry is important, so several books are written. A movement begins in Odda to get on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Most importantly, the council is for it but the locals oppose it. Odda Smelteverk is protected in 2011 as a national heritage site.

    The Folgefonn Tunnel opened in 2002, allowing people to drive 11km under the glacier. This reduces travel time to Bergen dramatically.

    In 2020, Odda merges with the neighbouring districts of Ullensvang and Jondal to become a new municipality called Ullensvang. Finally, in 2024, work is going to begin on a new and safer winter road between east and west Norway.

    Odda Today

    The history of Odda ends with it almost coming full circle. Today many people in Odda still rely on the factories for a living, but many people are now working in new fields, particularly medical and social services. However, tourism is rapidly growing in the region, thanks to the natural beauty that attracted tourists 170 years ago. The Odda Smelteverk is now a museum you can visit. Next time I get to Odda I’ll be sure to cover this fascinating part of the town.

    The Rv13 Highway

    Odda is located on the Rv13, a major highway through western Norway. You can view our guide for this drive by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv13 Highway
    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Odda

    Interesting Facts about Odda

    Odda is a small town located in the Ullensvang municipality in the county of Vestlandet in Western Norway. The town is famous for its proximity to nature, namely the Trolltunga hike and the Folgefonna National Park. However, it’s worth spending some time in Odda itself. The town is historic for its rapid and important industrial growth that took place at the start of the 20th century, so much so that it became UNESCO World Heritage-listed in 2009. Here are some interesting facts about Odda to highlight what makes this town special and unique.

    Odda Travel Guide

    2019 Statistics

    Published on 1 January 2020 on ssb.no. This is for the municipality of Ullensvang, of which Odda is part of.

    Visit the ssb.no website here. I’ll try to update this every year; if my statistics are out of date, notify me in the comments.

    • Population 11,048
    • 19 babies were born in 2019, while 29 people died
    • The population is currently declining; in 2030, it’s expected that 10,360 people will live in the municipality
    • The main industry is ‘sekundærnæring’, which refers to goods that are produced by processing raw materials from agriculture and forestry. This includes mining, general goods, water and power plants, oil refining and construction. The raw materials are extracted and then produced and processed by factories.
    • The second largest industry is hospitality services (e.g. hotels, restaurants, shops and real estate), while the third-largest is health and social services
    • 92% of children attend kindergarten
    • 49.6% of students use public transport to get to school
    • 3,762 detached houses; 807 apartments. 79% own their property
    • 33.3% live on agricultural property
    • 2.11 residents per household on average
    • 6,630 books were borrowed from the library; 16.1 visits per cinema performance
    • There are 10 voluntary teams and associations
    • 80.6% are members of the Church of Norway; 4.9% are members of other faiths
    • Population density of 4 inhabitants per km2. 64% live in urban areas
    • The municipality is operating at a loss of 4.4%

    History

    Odda grew up around the smelter in the early 20th century.

    The name ‘Odda’ comes from an old farm that used to stand in the area. Additionally, the church was on the site.

    Odda has been populated for centuries, but it wasn’t until the mid-19th century that the population really began to grow. First this was from tourism, but later it was from industry.

    Hotel Hardanger (Source)

    One of the most important historical buildings in Odda was the Hardanger Hotel, which was torn down in the 1970s.

    Kaiser Wilhelm II visited Odda every year between 1891 and 1914. He gifted the town with its first hospital and many fire hydrants.

    The Odda Smelteverk, which closed down in 2003, has been on the UNESCO List of World Heritage Sites since 2009. It shares this title with important industrial sites throughout southwestern Norway. The statement says:

    “What makes Odda smelteverk so important and central to the application of Norway’s hydro power sites and pioneer chemical industry as a World Heritage Site is the fact that here in an internationally unique way the physical remains of an early chemical production process are still present.”

    Arms of Ullensvang
    Ullensvang Municipality coat-of-arms

    The municipality is named after the old Ullensvang farm, since the first church was built there. The Old Norse word is Ullinsvangr – the first part references the Norse god Ullin, while the last part vangr means field or meadow. The coat of arms comes from a nobleman, Sigurd Brynulvsson Galte, and it can be seen on his grave dating back to 1302. It is the oldest gravestone in the village and the arms are well known. In 2020, the colour scheme was changed from red/yellow to blue/white after Odda municipality merged with Ullensvang municipality. [mfn]https://www.heraldry-wiki.com/heraldrywiki/index.php?title=Ullensvang[/mfn]

    Geography

    Odda is located on the southern tip of Sørfjorden (Southern Fjord), which is a branch of the Hardangerfjord (the second-longest fjord in Norway). Sørfjorden is surrounded by very steep mountains and renowned for its beauty.

    The Sørfjorden is 38km (24 mi) long and is the longest arm that branches off the Hardangerfjord.

    All the villages along the Sørfjorden are filled with fruit farms and orchards, growing fruits like apples and cherries.

    The Buarbreen Glacier in the background. Taken in April 2019.

    In the western part of Odda is the Folgefonna Glacier, including the Buarbreen Glacier close to the town centre.

    Odda. Taken in September 2020

    Industry

    Odda is the commercial and economic centre of the entire Hardanger region.

    Odda Hospital is the main hospital for the inhabitants of Hardanger.

    The municipality, Ullensvang Municipality, is Norway’s largest supplier of fruit, especially cherries and apples.

    Odda town centre. Taken September 2020

    Culture & Everyday Life

    The locals in Odda have a unique dialect. When migrants came from across the country to work at the smelter, they brought their unique dialects. Moreover, they developed a new dialect in Odda that’s a mixture of what’s spoken in their home regions. Most importantly, this is a phenomenon termed by linguists as a ‘Koine Language’.

    Odda has its own song, called the Oddasangen. The melody was written by Andreas L. Eide and the text was written by Haakon Scheide Lutken. The song was first published on 17 May 1914.

    Listen to it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATYC0Z_j11U

    Every summer in nearby Lofthus is the Norwegian Championship of Cherry Stone Spitting. The current record is 14.24m (46.7ft).

    Famous People from Odda

    Knut Knutsen (1832-1915)

    Knut Knutsen is one of Norway’s first professional photographers. His work includes images from most of Norway and documents Norwegian history and ethnology. He left a collection of 13,500 wet and dry plate negatives, and about 20,000 albumin silver prints. The negative and print collection are at the Picture Collection, University of Bergen Library.[mfn]https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knud_Knudsen_(photographer)[/mfn]

    Anne Birkefeldt Ragde (1957-)

    Anne Birkefeldt Ragde is a Norwegian novelist known for her children and young adult books. Her most famous novel is a biography about Sigrid Undset, for which she was awarded the Brage Prize.

    Svein Olav Herstad (1969-)

    Svein Olav Herstad is a jazz pianist known from his own bands and several recordings with musicians.

    Leif Einar Lothe (1969-)

    Leif Einar Lothe is a Norwegian television personality known as ‘Lothepus’ – he is a starring character in the documentary series Fjorden Cowboys. He also releases music, which you can listen to below.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHfs_CrhSq4

    Håkon Opdal (1982-)

    Håkon Opdal is a Norwegian professional football player who plays for Bergen Brann as a goalkeeper.

    More Interesting Facts about Odda

    I hope you enjoyed these facts about Odda! If you have any that you think I should add, please mention your facts about Odda in the comments.

    Odda Travel Guide