Foodies Guide

  • Culture & Everyday Life, Foodies Guide, Norway

    The Most Popular Norwegian Christmas Foods

    The Most Popular Norwegian Christmas Foods

    Visiting Norway in December? You have to try some Norwegian Christmas foods! Christmas in Norway is a huge celebration and many choose to celebrate through their food choices. Many restaurants will switch to Christmas menus for the months of November, December and January, giving you plenty of opportunity to try classic dishes.

    Here are the most common foods to try in Norway over Christmas.

    In this article...

    Ribbe

    Click here for an image and recipe.

    Typically, meat is eaten at Christmas. In older times meat was expensive so was reserved for special occasions (such as Christmas). It was also common to eat the entire animal and not let anything go to waste, so be prepared for some stranger meat options further down.

    “Ribbe”, or “ribs”, is the most popular Christmas eve dinner all over the country. The ribs are typically pork and it is commonly eaten with sauerkraut, red cabbage, patties, sausages and potatoes. The dish became popular at the end of the 18th century when potatoes came to Norway and then it became more common to eat pork. Before that, pigs were not common because the feed was similar to human diet, so raising pigs was seen as wasteful. The potato solved this problem and paved the way for ribbe.

    Pinnekjøtt

    Norwegian Christmas foods

    Click here for a recipe.

    “Pinnekjøtt” is the most popular Christmas Eve dinner in Western Norway. The word literally means “stick meat” and is racks of lamb or mutton cured in brine or sea salt. It has a unique flavour that comes with the preservation methods of curing, drying and smoking. The technique is developed from the same method used to dry fish. You will see it in supermarkets but also at any Norwegian restaurant in cities like Bergen on the west coast.

    Smalahove

    Click here for pictures and a recipe.

    If you are feeling brave you can try “smalahove”. It is a sheeps head, and it is rather literal. To create it, the skin and fleece of the head is torched, then the brain is removed, the head is seasoned with salt and then air-dried. The head is boiled until cooked. It was originally associated with the lower classes in Norwegian society and is more common in western parts of Norway. Some restaurants on the west coast do serve the full head, though you need to share it amongst multiple people.

    Lutefisk

    Click here for a recipe.

    “Lutefisk” is THE Christmas dish. Lutefisk is made by mixing lye of potash and water and then soaking dried cod (stockfish) in it. Some claim it has a strong, pungent odour, but I think they’ve never had good lutefisk before. It is not smelly or slimy like people will tell you. I’ve been told so many times by people from the Mid-West that lutefisk is slimy, but it isn’t! I get it every year at Bryggeloftet in Bergen and find it very similar to eating regular cod. It is typically served with crispy bacon on top, making it even better.

    It has been a popular dish since the 16th century when it was a common Catholic dish. Meat was always considered expensive, so it was reserved for special dinners (such as Christmas). You will find it at any traditional Norwegian restaurant or can take a look at a supermarket in the fresh seafood section.

    Risengrynsgrøt

    Click here for pictures and a recipe (in Norwegian)

    “Risengrynsgrøt” is a hot rice pudding and is one of the more traditional dishes. In fact, in Norwegian folklore it is what the “fjøsnissen” barn gnome eats. The Fjøsnissen was a mischievous and slightly sinister character that was important when Norway was a farming community. You must stay friends with him; if he was treated well, the farm would be prosperous. If he got unhappy, bad things could happen such as him striking the dairy cattle dead. In the countryside, many people put a bowl or risengrynsgrøt and juleøl out for the barn gnome to eat. In Northern Norway, many prefer to have cloudberry cream instead.

    Kransekake & Krumkake

    Both are popular cakes over Christmas. You can buy miniature Kransekake in supermarkets, and you can also get Krumkake. Some pancake stalls at Christmas markets will sell Krumkake too.

    Click here for a kransekake recipe and click here for a krumkake recipe.

    Gløgg

    “Gløgg” is the most popular drink to have over Christmas. It is a warm, spicy drink like the German Glühwein. It can be made with red wine, but most Norwegians prefer the non-alcoholic version you can get in a supermarket. The Christmas markets often have gløgg, but it’s not so common at restaurants or pubs.

    Both are popular cakes over Christmas. You can buy miniature Kransekake in supermarkets, and you can also get Krumkake. Some pancake stalls at Christmas markets will sell Krumkake too.

    Click here for a kransekake recipe and click here for a krumkake recipe.

    Juleøl

    It is possible to buy “juleøl” or “Christmas Beer” over the holiday period. They are typically released by the major beer companies.

    Click here to see the “Best in Test” Christmas beers of 2022.

    Julebrus

    The most popular drink over Christmas is most definitely “julebrus”, or “Christmas soda”. Each drinks company makes its own and claims to be the best, though locals argue about which julebrus is better: the brown coloured julebrus or the red coloured julebrus. Every year the local newspaper will rank julebrus. Here is the “Best in Test” for this year.

    Akevitt

    It is also common to drink “akevitt”, the Norwegian liqueur, on Christmas. Many brands will release a special Christmas edition of the akevitt.

    Pepperkake

    “Pepperkake” is the Norwegian cousin to the gingerbread cookie. Many parents bake them with their children, but every supermarket will sell them.

    Click here for a Pepperkake recipe.

    Marzipan
    Marzipan figures are super popular at this time of year and can be bought in any supermarket. Most popular is the marzipan pig.

    Enjoy Christmas!

    Hopefully this will help you plan your trip to Norway over the Christmas period. Be sure to try some Norwegian Christmas foods! Let me know in the comments if you have tried any of these foods or have any recommendations.
  • Fagernes, Foodies Guide, Voss

    20 of the Best Traditional Norwegian Foods to Try

    20 of the Best Traditional Norwegian Foods to Try

    When you come to Norway, you have to try the local cuisine. Whenever someone asks me “What is a traditional Norwegian food?” I have to explain that here food varies dramatically according to region and time of year.

    The most traditional Norwegian foods are, understandably, found in Norwegian restaurants. They tend to be the most expensive options, but if you do your research you can find the same quality food in the fish market restaurants or the Norwegian cafes.

    When we think traditional Norwegian food, our brain tends to go straight to seafood. It is true – Norway has a long history of fishing, and many farmers had to survive on fishing. Seafood remains an important part of Norwegian cuisine today, but due to its historical association of being a food for the poor, meat is seen as more of a luxury dish.

    Sheep, lamb and pork are popular meats found in Norway. If you go north, you’ll find reindeer on the menu. In the rural parts of the country, you’ll find game meats. Meats were typically seen as high-end food and what you would more likely be served when visiting a Norwegian home. Still, Norwegians had to be thrifty and all of the animal was used. That’s why you’ll find questionable dishes below, but remember this is how people had to survive for a long period of time.

    Most meat and fish dishes are accompanied with potatoes, carrots and other vegetables (according to season). Sauce is also an important ingredient, and there are a wide variety of Norwegian sauces that fit perfectly with different kinds of meat and seafood.

    Norwegians didn’t get fridges in their households until the 1950s, and before then methods of preservation were crucial. Families salted and dried their own fish and meat, pickled their own fruit and vegetables, and did everything possible to make food survive through the winter. You’ll see examples of this below.

    I’ve compiled a list of what I consider the most traditional Norwegian foods to try. When you come to Norway, be sure to try some of these. Pay attention to where in Norway you are and what season it is – if you check restaurants online keep in mind their menus are always seasonal.

    In this article...

    Found in Restaurants

    Salmon



    Recipe / Image Source
    Homemade Gravlaks
    Supermarket

    • Smoked salmon can be found in restaurants or supermarkets
    • Cooked salmon is found all over the country

    Salmon is a staple of the Norwegian diet, and you can find it on menus practically all over the country.
    Possibly the most Norwegian form of salmon is gravlaks. Gravlaks is salmon that has been cured in salt, sugar, and dill. You will find it on some breakfast buffets or as an appetiser on menus.

    Smoked salmon can be bought in supermarkets, though I do see it on menus as an appetiser too.

    If you order a salmon fillet from a restaurant, it will come with potatoes, seasonal vegetables, and a white sauce.
    It’s worth nothing that most, if not all, Norwegian salmon is farmed.

    Try it on Sushi!

    I know, sushi is not a traditional Norwegian dish.

    However.

    The Norwegians claim to have invented salmon sushi. Fresh fish sushi is amazing in Norway and it’s very popular for people here to have for lunch or dinner. Norway is actually credited for popularising salmon sushi in Japan in the 1980s. At the time, the Asian country was resistant to raw salmon due to parasites associated with pacific salmon. After Norway’s Project Japan successfully introduced and promoted Atlantic salmon to Japan, and it has been a staple ever since.

    Fårikål



    Recipe / Image Source

    • Norway’s national dish
    • Stew with meat and potato

    Fårikål is a stew that has been voted Norway’s national dish. It’s made from lamb meat and most of the animal is used – the shoulder, neck, ribs, and chops. The meat is cooked over a long time, and this makes the meat really tender. Cabbage is also put into the stew. After hours in the pot, it’s ready to eat.

    The last Thursday of September is Norway’s national fårikål day. You’ll find it on Norwegian restaurant menus throughout autumn.

    Stockfish




    Buy on Amazon/Image Source

    Stockfish is the staple of North Norwegian cuisine. It’s cod that has been dried outdoors for several months. The tradition dates back to the 12th century, and for hundreds of years it was the main Norwegian export.

    In restaurants you’ll find stockfish on the menu, especially in Northern Norway. The stockfish is rehydrated before cooking.

    If you go into a supermarket in Northern Norway or the fish markets in Southern Norway, you’ll be able to find the stockfish still dry. But it whole or as a bag of chips!

    You will also find cod (not dried – just fresh cod fillets) on many restaurant menus. The best I’ve ever had was at Enhjorningen in Bryggen. It’s pictured on the left.

    Lutefisk



    Recipe / Image Source
    “Why We Keep Eating Lutefisk in Minnesota”
    Buy Lutefisk (USA)

    • Stockfish soaked in lye
    • Traditional Christmas dish

    Lutefisk is another traditional food from Norway, which is typically eaten at Christmas. It is also common to eat on Christmas in Sweden and some parts of Finland.

    Lutefisk is made from aged stockfish and pickled in lye. First, the stockfish is soaked for five to six days in water, which is changed daily. Then it is soaked in a solution of cold water and lye for an additional two days. During this process, the dried fish swells and its protein content decreases by more than 50 percent. It creates a jelly-like texture. This process actually makes the fish inedible. To make it possible to eat, it needs an additional five to six days of soaking in cold water to remove the very high pH levels the lye added. Then it is cooked.

    Lutefisk is cooked by spreading a layer of salt over the fish to release some of the water. Remove the salt before cooking. Place it in a pan and steam cook it on a low heat for up to 25 minutes. It can also be baked in the oven. Lutefisk is served with potatoes, green peas, melted butter, and small pieces of fried bacon. Side dishes vary greatly from region to region, and family to family.

    Lutefisk Around the World

    Lutefisk has become popular in the United States as a heritage fish. Madison in Minnesota was named the ‘lutefisk capital of the world’ as it has the largest per capita consumption of lutefisk in Minnesota. Lutefisk is also served in Lutheran churches across Wisconsin, and it can be found in Canada. In Norway, around 20% of Norwegians eat it as a Christmas dinner.

    In Norway, you will find it for sale in supermarkets or on the menu over Christmas time. If you visit in July, you will not find lutefisk anywhere.

    We had lutefisk at Bryggeloftet in Bergen, and it was incredible.

    Meatballs

    • Meatballs
    • Find them in cheaper restaurants. The best ones are always found in our roadside diner – the ‘kro’

    Kjøttkaker is Norway’s answer to Sweden’s meatballs. Are ours better? Absolutely! 😉 Norwegian meatballs tend to be bigger and more influenced by family traditional recipes, whereas Swedish meatballs are more bite-sized.
    Meatballs are eaten with boiled potatoes, carrots (or other vegetables), and a brown sauce. They are best eaten homemade, but I find the most authentic ones in our version of a diner – the ‘kro’. You will find upmarket versions in restaurants, but this is a hearty dish that needs to be the real deal!

    Whale Meat

    Whale is a controversial food item, but I do recommend trying it when in Norway. Whaling isn’t banned: it’s heavily regulated and the whale used is minke whale, which is sustainable to hunt. You will see whale meat in fish markets and some supermarkets, but try it in a restaurant. More casual restaurants serve it as a burger, while the more upmarket ones serve it as a steak.
    It’s not as widely available as the anti-whaling groups make it out to be, and there aren’t many who prepare it at home.
    Whale was commonly used as a cheap substitute for beef in the early 20th century, and was vital to remote communities in Northern Norway.

    Consumption in whale meat is declining in Norway.

    You’ll find it in the fish market in Bergen.

    Raspeballer



    Recipe

    The Different Names

    Raspeballer

    • Dense potato balls
    • Called something different all over the country

    Raspeballer are a traditional Norwegian dish commonly prepared and served during the summer. You’ll find it on the menu at traditional, not necessarily high-end, Norwegian restaurants.
    This dense ball of mashed potato and flour is simmered in stock with fatty cuts of sheep or pork. It’s served with thick cubes of pan-fried bacon and lots of brown butter.
    Many restaurants serve it as a special every Thursday afternoon.
    They aren’t the most beautiful to look at, but they are very tasty!

    Smalahove



    Recipe

    This dish is the ultimate West Norwegian Christmas dish. You will only find it on menus over the Christmas period, and it’s not cheap. Still, if you want to try it – go ahead!
    The sheeps head is either boiled or steamed for three hours and is usually served with rutabaga and potatoes. Historically, it was food for the lower class. Today it is a delicacy that has to be preordered months in advance.

    Pinnekjøtt



    Recipe

    Pinnekjøtt

    • Dried, salted, smoked and cured lamb ribs
    • Very common Christmas dish. Found in restaurants and supermarkets

    The dish is made from lamb ribs. The meat is dried, salted and smoked. Once the meat is cured, the racks are hung in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated place to dry. Before cooking, the racks are separated into individual ribs and then soaked in water to rinse out the salt. After soaking the ribs, the ribs are steamed.
    This is a very popular Christmas/New Years dish in Western Norway, and you’ll find it in most Norwegian restaurants.

    Fiskesuppe



    Recipe

    Fiskesuppe

    • Fish soup
    • The best one is in Bergen!

    Fish soup is found all over the country, but it’s famous in Bergen. It is a white, milk-based soup with vegetables and various kinds of fish. The most incredible fish soup I’ve ever had is at Bryggeloftet in Bergen.

    Klippfisk



    Bacalao Recipe
    Klippfisk in supermarkets

    • Salted stockfish
    • Used commonly in bacalao

    The Dutch introduced salt to the fishermen of Kristiansund in the 1600s, and this is how cliff fish, or klippfisk, was born!  Salted, dried and pressed cod is known as the star of the Iberian dish bacalao. It became very popular in Kristiansund, where the klippfisk was produced.
    The difference between klippfisk and stockfish is that klippfisk is salted before drying, while stockfish isn’t.
    Today klippfisk is primarily exported to Spain and Portugal and used in bacalao.

    Rakfisk

    • Fermented trout/char
    • Try some at the Norwegian rakfisk festival in Fagernes

    Rakfisk is Norwegian fish made from trout or char, salted, and fermented for two or three months or even up to a year. It’s eaten without further cooking. It must be prepared and stored hygienically due to the risk of causing bacteria.
    Every year the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival takes place in Fagernes. Local rakfisk producers as well as producers of other local products and handicrafts turn the streets into a marketplace.
    Click here for more info. 

    Game & Hunting Meat

    High cuisine is reliant on game meats. Hunting is heavily regulated in Norway, and it is typically for personal consumption or given to friends and family. They are also served in restaurants.
    Here are the more traditional meats to try in restaurants:
    Moose. Moose is hunted and prepared in restaurants. You’ll very rarely find it in supermarkets. The taste can be compared to venison or elk. It’s prepared in many different forms, from steaks to burgers to hot dogs and stews. Click here for some different moose menus.
    Reindeer. If you’re in Northern Norway, you have to have reindeer. Extra points if you eat reindeer prepared by the Sami. I don’t eat reindeer often, but when I do I make sure it’s from a Sami family. My favourite ever reindeer eaten was a reindeer potato bake I had at a Sami camping ground. You’ll find it in supermarkets and on menus – it’s typically served as a steak.
    Deer. Deer is very common on menus, and it’s also often served as a steak.
    Grouse. This is one of the most sought-after birds in Norway. The breast has a tender, mild gamey taste.

    Supermarket Buys

    Brown Cheese

    • Brown Cheese / Gudbrandalsost
    • Find the cheese in the supermarket or on the buffet at your hotel breakfast

    Brown cheese is a very Norwegian food item. It is regarded as one of Norway’s most iconic foodstuffs, and it is considered an important part of Norwegian gastronomical and cultural identity and heritage.
    Brown cheese is produced by boiling milk, cream, and whey for several hours until the water evaporates. The heat turns the milk sugars into caramel – this is what gives the cheese its brown colour and sweetness. It is either made from cows’ milk or goat’s milk.
    The most popular type is ‘Gudbrandsdalsost’, which is produced in the Gudbrandsdalen Valley and contains a mixture of goat and cow milk.
    If you are trying brown cheese for the first time, put it on a lightly buttered slice of bread. It is a little sticky and full of flavour, so you don’t want to overwhelm it. Brown cheese is not technically cheese, so don’t go in expecting a cheese flavour! I love having brown cheese on waffles, too.
    Brown cheese is used in sweet and savoury dishes such as pasta & muffins. I like to make ‘brown cheese burgers’ 
    Fun fact: Brown cheese has become very popular in South Korea. In South Korea, they put it on croissants, though brown cheese pizza is very popular too.

    Kaviar

    Caviar… in a tube

    • Try Norwegian caviar straight from a tube
    • You’ll find it in the cold spreads section of the supermarket

    Pickled herring is something we like to snack on. Buy a jar in the supermarket with some rye bread, put the two together, and enjoy! If you’re hosting a party, serve pickled herring as a hors-d’oeuvre. It’s popularly eaten over Christmas.

    Leverpostei

    • Liver paste
    • You’ll find it in the tinned goods section of the supermarket

    Leverpostei is a common filling for sandwiches. This is a paste made of liver – normally pork. You can buy it in tins in the supermarket. It tastes best on a slice of bread. The tins characteristically have a childs face on the front.

    Sur-Sild

    • Pickled Herring
    • You can buy it in a large jar in the supermarket fridge section

    Pickled herring is something we like to snack on. Buy a jar in the supermarket with some rye bread, put the two together, and enjoy! If you’re hosting a party, serve pickled herring as a hors-d’oeuvre. It’s popularly eaten over Christmas.

    Snacks, Desserts, Takeaway

    Pølse med Lompe

    • Hot dog in pancakes
    • You’ll find them at kiosks (7/11 and Narvesen) as well as hotdog stands

    This is the traditional Norwegian foods of hot dogs. You can buy regular hotdogs in Norway, but if you want to do as the Norwegians do, try the Norwegian version with a sausage in a potato pancake.

    Waffles

    • Norwegian waffles
    • You’ll find them in cafes

    The Norwegian waffles are, in my opinion, the best in the world. They are thin, fluffy, and shaped like love hearts. The heart shape comes from the tradition that waffles are sold at charity drives.
    You can put many different things on top – jam, sour cream, cream, sugar, brown cheese. My husband puts ketchup on, which is so wrong!
    You can buy pre-made packets in supermarkets. Just add butter and water. The waffle irons are available everywhere, and prices range from 600 – 1000 NOK.

    Lefse

    • A kind of Norwegian flatbread

    Lefse is made with butter, flour, potatoes, and cream. However, the recipes for lefse vary dramatically depending where in Norway you are.
    You can buy packaged lefse in supermarkets or kiosks. Vestlandslefse is the best!

    Rømmegrøt

    • A strange Norwegian dessert

    Rømmegrøt is a sour cream porridge that you’ll find in the more traditional restaurants and diners.
    The recipe consists of sour cream, flour, milk, and salt which are then boiled or several minutes until a thick, creamy consistency is achieved. In Røros it is served with boiled trout, which makes it even more unique.

    Share your thoughts!

    Have you got any suggestions for food items to add? Or maybe some recommendations for restaurants? Add them below!
    I hope you enjoyed this article.

  • Bergen, Foodies Guide

    Bergen Restaurant Guide

    Bergen Restaurant Guide

    Updated June 2024

    Bergen has a huge number of restaurants with many different cuisines, and it can be a little daunting to try and figure out where to eat. If your goal is to try traditional Norwegian food, it can be tricky trying to figure out what ‘pinnekjøtt’ or ‘prinsefisk’ is.

    I’m not a huge fan of reviewing restaurants, firstly because it is completely subjective and secondly it’s because there are already plenty of reviews online. When I started building “The Hidden North”, I didn’t want to tell people what’s good or bad; I wanted to put together a travel guide so people could make up their own mind.

    So, for this restaurant guide I’ve categorised restaurants by cuisine – whether you be looking for traditional Norwegian food, Japanese, vegetarian, cheap eats, etc. I’ve also included my experiences at the restaurant. This list is forever growing, so it’s best to bookmark it and check just before you come.

    For convenience, I’ve only included restaurants in the inner city centre.

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norwegian Food

    Norwegian food is a surprisingly big term; it means seafood, locally sourced food, food from the farms, and traditional food.

    What to try in Bergen:

    In Bergen, persetorsk is unique and local. You can find it in Bryggen Tracteursted, Bryggeloftet (winter season), Cornelius (seasonal), and Fjellskål. The tourist office has a good overview of persetork (click here). 

    Bergen Fish Soup is a must. it is creamy, chowder-like soup. My favourite fish soup is at Bryggeloftet, though Fish Me also does a good fish soup. Click here to learn more about Bergen Fish Soup. 

    Bare

    Tasting Menu / 1450 NOK pp ($)
    Torgallmenningen 2

    Links

    Bare is located within the Bergen Børs Hotel and received a Michelin Star in 2020 for its use of organise local produce. The menu changes according to the season, and you can view the current menu online. It’s typically a mix of seafood and meat dishes from Western Norway. Reservations are necessary.

    Bark

    $$$
    Torgallmenningen 2

    Links

    Bark is a brand-new restaurant and wine bar that takes its inspiration from modern Nordic cooking. It’s a little out of the way, but is well worth the walk!

    Bjerck

    Lunch $$ / Dinner $$$
    Torgallmenningen 1A

    Links

    Bjerck is a new restaurant in Bergen with a mostly Norwegian menu, though there are some international dishes as well. They have an international lunch menu (chicken salad, summer salad, fish and chips, shrimps, burgers) and a more Norwegian dinner menu (prinsefisk, chicken breast, entrecote, burgers). 

    Bryggeloftet & Stuene

    $$ (Mains 275-380 NOK)
    Bryggen 11

    Links

    Whenever someone visits me in Bergen, this is where I take them. It has a good overview of traditional Norwegian food, and that makes it a safe bet for anyone looking to discover Norwegian flavours. Menu includes Bergen fish soup, scallops, kveite, mountain trout, wolffish, bacalao, beef, reindeer, lamb, and deer. The menu is seasonal, so it does change. There’s a vegan bacalao and vegan burger as well. 

    Bryggen Tracteursted

    Tapas $$ / Mains $$$
    Bryggestredet

    Links

    Bryggen Tracteursted is located inside the old schøtstuene, or kitchen and assembly room, for the Hanseatics, so you get an authentic 18th century experience here. The menu is traditional Norwegian. The tapas include an extensive list of Norwegian seafood (halibut, sardines, salmon, etc) and meat (lamb, whale, reindeer, etc). The a la carte menu has prinsefisk, plukkfisk, fried trout, reindeer and beef

    Cornelius

    Tasting Menu / 1145 NOK pp (includes boat transfer) ($$$)
    Vestrepollsveien 109

    Links

    Cornelius is a full seafood experience. You take a boat from near Bryggen at 6pm, ride 25 minutes to the restaurant, and then take the boat back at 10:30pm. When there, you get a set five-course menu. This restaurant is quite popular with visitors, and I can see why! The menu is inspired by the weather of that particular day, and the items change daily depending on the raw materials. It usually consists of shellfish for an appetiser, fish for the main course, and then a dessert. 

    Enhjørningen

    A la carte $$$ (350+ NOK for a main course)
    Enhjørningsgården 29

    Links

    Enhjørningen (The Unicorn) is a seafood restaurant located on Bredsgården, the most authentic alley left at Bryggen. You can sit in the old Hanseatic buildings and eat traditional Norwegian seafood! Items include whale, clipfish, fish soup, mussels, reindeer steak, bacalao, and then Norwegian cheeses for dessert.

    Fjellskål

    A la carte $$ (you can pay 100 NOK or 1500 NOK for a meal here!)
    Strandkaien 3
    Vegan Menu

    Links

    Fjellskål is located in the Bergen Fish Market (under the tourist information centre), and it has a great range of different types of seafood and meat dishes at varying prices, so it really is for everyone. The seafood is picked fresh from the market, so you can’t go wrong here. Just some of the items are fish soup, 4 types of caviar, various types of sashimi, shrimp, crab (various types), oysters, various types of fish including salmon and cod, whale, fish and chips, pasta, burgers. Vegan menu has the beyond burger and vegan pasta.

    Lysverket

    1, 2, 3 courses ($$$)
    Rasmus Meyers Alle 9 (entry through KODE 4)

    Links

    Lysverket was shortlisted on the Michelin Guide in 2020, and it is a restaurant I’ve heard often amongst visitors. It’s located near the art galleries on Byparken. The set menu includes scallops, turbot, cow, and dessert. Sturgeon caviar and Norwegian cheeses can be added to the menu. 

    Pingvinen

    $
    Vaskerelven 14

    Links

    Pingvinen is a local restaurant/pub known for its traditional meals and very laid back setting. Meals include meatballs, fish, stew, and four other dishes that change daily. If you visit around christmas, they serve traditional Christmas dishes. On Thursdays they serve raspeballer. 

    Restaurant Opus 16

    $-$$$ (245-495 NOK for mains)
    Vågsallmenningen 16

    Links

    Restaurant Opus 16 is located within the Opus XVI hotel, practically across the street from the fish market. Mains include cod, lamb, halibut, mussels and langoustines. This restaurant also a very popular afternoon tea on Saturdays from 12pm – 5pm.

    Restaurant 1877

    Tasting Menu / 725-845 NOK pp ($$$)
    Located inside the old meat market at Vetrlidsallmenningen 2

    Links

    Restaurant 1877 is located inside the old meat market near Bryggen (the triangular-roofed brick building). The menu is seasonal and locally sourced and typically includes seafood, meat, and dessert. 

    Frescohallen

    $$$
    Located inside the old stock exchange

    Links

    Frescohallen is located in the beautiful historic stock exchange. The restaurant serves various seafood dishes but is also known for its cocktail menu. 

    To Kokker

    Four, five, six course menu ($$$)
    Enhjørningsgården 29

    Links

    To Kokker is owned by the same group as Enhjørningen, so the menus are a little similar. The big difference is that To Kokker (the two chefs in English) is a set menu, whereas Enhjørningen is a la carte. Items on the menu include kveite, deer steak, and whale. 

    26 North

    Boards from the Fjords $ / Mains $-$$
    Bryggen 47

    Links

    Located at the Radisson Blu Hotel on Bryggen, 26 North focuses on Nordic food traditions. They have ‘Boards from the Fjords’, which is an overview of different seasonal flavours from the nearby fjords. At the time of writing, this includes moose sliders, Nordic taco (with lefse), Arctic reindeer tartar or a mixing board. Mains include a burger, lamb, venison, steak, cod, Nordic pasta, and the catch of the day. 

    Japanese

    Japanese is very popular in Bergen, probably because of the fresh seafood we can take advantage of. A well-known fun fact is that the Norwegian invented salmon sushi, so why not try some here? Every time my husband and I plan to go out to dinner, he always insists on Japanese as the sushi tastes so fresh!

    Nama Japanese Fusion

    Tasting menu ($) or a la carte ($$)
    Lodin Lepps gate 2B

    Links

    Nama was the first sushi restaurant to open up in Bergen, and the restaurant mixes Japanese recipes with local ingredients. Tasting menus are available, you can opt for the a la carte menu. Items include Wagyu steak, tempura, lobster, miso soup, tuna tartar, sea bass, black cod, chicken, king crab cake, monkfish, and an extensive sushi bar. The restaurant even has a sushi course! Takeaway is also available (see website for details). 

    Sumo

    $$
    Neumanns Gate 25

    Links

    Sumo is our go-to sushi restaurant. The menu is Asian fusion and the sushi list is extensive and fresh. There are plenty of small dishes as well as poke bowls. Mains include red curry, pad thai, sticky pork, ushi burger, Chicken satay, bao buns, dirty maki, and so much more. It’s not just Japanese food but a huge mix of different types of Asian food, but we come here for the sushi. 

    Pubs

    Not everyone wants a fine dining experience; some of us just want to have a good, safe, tasty and filling pub meal in a really laid-back setting. I hear you – I always try to get to a pub when I travel somewhere. Here are some of Bergen’s pubs. 

    Bryggeriet Restaurant and Microbrewery

    $ – $$
    Torget 2 (the large white building on the fish market square)

    Links

    Located just off the fish market, Bryggeriet is a popular gastropub with the locals. The menu focuses on seafood and meat dishes that are Norwegian-inspired, and there’s an excellent selection of beer from the microbrewery. They’ve got burgers, fish and chips, cod, mussels, beef tenderloin, chicken breast, pork, quinoa salad and stuffed eggplant. The microbrewery was the first to be established in Bergen and is 135 years old. 

    Madam Felle

    $
    Vegetarian Menu

    Links

    Located on Bryggen, Madam Felle is one of the spots where you see everyone sitting outside having a beer on a warm summer day. The menu includes snacks (nachos, anyone?), caesar salad (veggie and chicken), various sandwiches (smoked salmon, shrimp, blt, chicken curry, steak), quesadillas, hamburgers, ribs, steak, and scampi. check the website for their regular concerts. 

    Italian

    Norwegians love Italian food – after all, we are the largest eaters of pizza per capita in the world! That’s mostly frozen pizza, but until someone opens a frozen pizza restaurant you’ll have to opt for some fresh pizza. I have heard from some Italians that the Italian restaurants in Bergen are better than they are in Italy, so don’t shy away from trying Italian food in Norway. 

    Olivia

    $ – $$
    Torget 3 (in the big white building on the fish market square)

    Links

    Olivia is a really popular Italian restaurant chain throughout Norway, and this is Bergen’s Olivia right here on the fish market. This Olivia is inspired by Sicilian food, and the menu includes a large list of pizzas, pastas, steak, salmon, etc. 

    Villani

    $$
    Skostredet 9A

    Links

    Villani is my favourite restaurant! The pizzas here are divine. The chefs and ingredients come from Italy, and the wine menu is one of the best in the country. If pizza isn’t your thing, they have wonderful pasta and salad dishes too. 

    Villa Blanca

    $$
    Nedre Korskirkeallmenningen 1A

    Links

    Villa Blanca is a popular pizza restaurant amongst the locals (I hear about it a lot!). The menu includes a huge list of pizzas, as well as some meaty mains. 

    International Cuisine

    Norway didn’t really experience international cuisine until quite recently (the first wave of immigrants occurred in the 1970s) and since then international restaurants have popped up all across the country. Bergen is not lacking in a range of different cuisines. If you are budget conscious, the international restaurants are typically cheaper than the Norwegian restaurants, and the food is just as good. Here are some of them below!

    Brasilia

    Brasilia Experience 460 NOK / Veggie 290 NOK
    Olav Kyrres Gate 39

    Links

    Brasilia is a Brazilian restaurant with buffets (meat or vegetarian), and there is an extensive list of cocktails and other types of drinks. You choose your side dishes from the buffet, and then they serve you 12(!) types of meats. Brasilia is popular with the locals!

    Horn of Africa

    $ (Mains 199 NOK)
    Strandgaten 212
    Vegetarian Menu

    Links

    Horn of Africa is an African restaurant with a focus on Ethiopian cuisine. Meals include shiro (ground chickpeas), tibs chilli, beef stew, chicken stew, shreds of lamb, or you can opt for a selection of four different meat or vegetarian dishes for 459 NOK for two people. It’s one of the top rated restaurants in Bergen (no. 3 on TripAdvisor), so it’s certainly worth a go!

    Røyk

    $$
    Vaskerelven 6

    Links

    Røyk is inspired by American BBQ and has a huge selection of different meats, burgers, and beer. 

    Small eats

    This list is comprised of cafes and eateries that are smaller in size and quicker than restaurants. They are perfect if you are budget conscious, don’t want to spend a night out at a restaurant, or are looking for lunch somewhere quick. 

    Daily Pot

    $-$$
    Vaskerelven 21
    Vegan Menu
    Note: Lunch only (closes 6pm)

    Links

    Daily Pot is a healthy cafe with a wide selection of vegan options, as well as a couple meat options. They have a list of soups, sandwiches, ‘power bowls’ and cakes. 

    Trekroneren

    $
    Kong Oscars gate 1

    Links

    Trekroneren has become the most iconic place in Bergen for a meal. The only option? Hot dogs! The hot dog stand has been here since 1946 and is regarded as one of the best places to eat in Bergen. 

    Søstrene Hagelin

    $
    Strandgaten 3

    Links

    Søstrene Hagelin is a traditional seafood place that is popular amongst locals. Here you can get takeaway fish cakes or Bergen fish soup. 

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Foodies Guide

    Trying Lefse in Norway

    Trying Lefse in Norway

    One of the most requested foods I get as a tour leader in Norway is lefse. It’s something everyone has heard of and wants to try when they come to Norway. Where do you even find lefse in Norway? Is it common to buy? I set out (for research purposes) to try different types of lefse in Norway and report back with which lefse to buy.

    First, though, I took a look at how Norwegians view lefse.

    In this article...

    What is lefse?

    Lefse - Wikipedia Lefse is a type of Norwegian flatbread that is often (but not always) made with potatoes, flour, butter, and milk. It has a similar texture to a thin pancake and is often eaten with butter, sugar, cinnamon or brown cheese on. Norwegian-American variations may add peanut butter, corn syrup or ham and eggs. More on that later.

    It’s important to keep in mind that lefse is not flatbread. Sometimes we use it like a flatbread, but there is also a separate Norwegian flatbread (see here)

    Although lefse has so few ingredients, recipes amongst Norwegian and Norwegian-American recipes vary considerably. Each family claims to have the best recipe there is. This makes it tricky to decipher exactly what kind of lefse you should try – flat or thin? Sugar or salmon? Brown cheese? Rolled up or flat? There are so many options. It’s especially tricky when trying to figure out what recipe can make. I can see why so many people stick to their family recipe.

    Lefse is very popular in the United States. Most importantly, in the Mid-West there is a large Norwegian-American population. Between 1850 and 1920, 800,000 Norwegians left Norway to go to the United States – at the time, the population was around 3 million people. Today, Lefse is probably more popular in the United States than it is in Norway. Therefore, Norwegian-Americans take the making of lefse very seriously. Their recipes vary from the Norwegian recipes; American’s tend to use potatoes as the main ingredient, whereas Norwegians tend to use flour.

    The history of lefse

    Norway has strong lefse traditions linked to the popularity of flatbread. Flatbread kept well, and sources from the 16th century say that it was soaked before eating. The oldest lefse was made from flour; when potato was introduced in Norway it gradually overtook flour, though not in all places. Flour wasn’t as commonly available in some parts of the country, where wheat doesn’t grow so easily, but potatoes were able to grow almost anywhere, making it a worthy replacement.

    Several lefse traditions originate in the development of flatbread into finer pastries. For example, in Helgeland, the lefse is decorated with a pattern before being fried a second time (see krinalefse). In Salten, the lefse is a soft flatbread with sour cream and brown cheese filling; the flatbread softens like a spoon when you gently fry it. As Norway was a very isolated country until recently, almost every region has its own version of lefse.

    There is a rumour that the Vikings made lefse, but this isn’t true. Potatoes arrived in Norway in the 15th century, well after the Viking Age. The Vikings may have had a flour version of lefse, but it was likely much closer to a flatbread than lefse.

    How to cook lefse

    The original lefse in Norway were made with barley and oat flours, and later they were made from rye and wheat flours. Most importantly, potatoes are used in some parts of the country, though it is much less common.

    Once the dough is ready, it is divided into balls and then flattened into thin circles – often the size of the griddle. It is then rolled with a special roller with square indents – see equipment below.

    Traditionally, the lefse was fried over an open fire, stone slab or iron plate. Today, electric griddles are used. Most lefse recipes follow the principle of flatbread baking. The lefse is placed onto the griddle with a special wooden stick. Some recipes use a pan, good to know if you can’t fit a griddle in your tiny apartment kitchen (my own experience!)

    Equipment

    Wooden Stick For example, in Wallendal in Bergen:

    Cost: 69 NOK (https://wallendahl.no/produkt/aanonsen-bakepinne-70-cm-flat/)

    Buying Online in Norway:

    Buying Online in the USA:

    Griddle Originally, my husband said griddles would be hard to find in Norway. Yet, in the very first store we checked in, we found one. Originally I was going to attempt to make lefse at home, but the griddle I found was way too big. We found it in Coop Obs:

    I think my husband was saying they were hard to find simply so we didn’t have to buy one! There are heaps online, just look for the word “steketakke”

    Buying Online in Norway:

    Buying a Griddle in the USA:

    Rolling Pin I did buy a rolling pin at Wallendahl for 199 NOK. They are easy to find:

    Buy in the USA:

    Lefse Kit Those in the USA are lucky because you can buy a lefse kit straight from Amazon that includes everything mentioned above. View it here: https://www.amazon.com/Piece-Lefse-Starter-Non-stick-Grill/dp/B00QXVUK3W/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=lefse+starter+kit&pd_rd_r=5668dc0e-8510-47a3-ad9a-392c200e97c3&pd_rd_w=Xmgxe&pd_rd_wg=1tzHh&pf_rd_p=ff875a9e-7810-43da-bae9-ec4c363817ac&pf_rd_r=DQ6HX6XG680C5WQ59VQF&qid=1592977565&sr=8-2

    Regional Differences

    When researching this article, I came across so many variations of what to do with lefse. It depends on either where you are, where you are from, or how you like your lefse.

    Moreover, traditional Norwegian lefse is smeared with butter, sugar and cinnamon. Some also use varieties of brown cheese.

    Lefse recipes vary across Norway. Here are some examples:

    Lokalmat - Snekalefse - smurt tynnlefse
    Tynnlefse (source: lokalmat)

    • Eastern Norway: Typically uses potato and the texture resembles that of soft bread. It may be used as a meal rather than a dessert, and it’s common to find salty toppings such as jam, sausage, and more. This is not common in other parts of the country. Potato was more commonly used here from the 19th century onwards and was also common in Sweden. It was essential for survival during times when the supply of grain was low. This
    • Central Norway: Tynnlefse is flour-based lefse that is rolled up with butter, sugar and cinnamon. (Recipe)
    • Salten in Nordland: Møsbrømlefse made from water, cheese and flour. (Recipe)
    • Nordland: Nordlandslefse is chunky lefse made of butter, syrup, sugar, eggs and flour. It was originally made in Western Norway as a treat to the Lofoten fishermen who arrived to trade their stockfish. (Recipe)
    • Hordaland: Anislefse resembles thin lefse but is stained by large amounts of aniseed. (Recipe)

    Eastern Norway

    Mørlefse (source)

    Western Norway

    Hardanger Lefse (source)

    Northern Norway

    Southern Norway

    Central Norway

     

    Lefse and the USA

    Lefse is very popular amongst Norwegian descendants in the United States and is commonly made and eaten around Christmas.

    Norwegian-Americans are more likely to make lefse from scratch than Norwegians are today. This is because the lefse-making tradition was brought over by Norwegians and it is seen as a way to connect to their heritage.

    Norwegian-American lefse is much more likely to be made with potatoes as many of the first Norwegians farmed potato and therefore made it easy to make lefse.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xLlQ3ff2GM The USA is keeping the lefse tradition alive. There are classes on how to make lefse, lefse can be found in many grocery stores in the Mid-West, and there are even lefse factories! Some parts of the country even have lefse festivals, such as the Lutefisk and Lefse Festival in Fargo, North Dakota, the Lefse Fest in Fosston Minnesota, and Lefse Day in Mankato Minnesota. The Potato Days Festival in Barnesville Minnesota has a lefse cookoff.

    American Recipes

    American recipes are not as varied as Norwegian recipes, and most of the recipes I found use potatoes instead of flour.

    Here are some examples of recipes:

    Lefse in Norway today

    In Norway, lefse is a traditional food that is typically reserved for special occasions. It is not eaten that often in Norway. The only times I’ve had lefse is when I’m with a group; I’ve never had it with my family. My husband buys lefse maybe once a year. We’ve never made it, though I’m working on putting together my own recipe!

    There are lefse competitions in Norway. This is a competition overview from 2018, where the winner was Suldals Lefse and the runner up was Nordland’s Lefse. An honourable mention went to Sunnmørslefse, the only potato-based lefse mentioned. The recipes of the winners are on the website if you want to be guaranteed good tasting lefse.

    In general, lefse is a snack food you can buy from kiosks or it’s food taken when you go hiking. It is sometimes served at traditional dinners (e.g. Christmas dinner), but this is becoming less common.

    There are some really interesting Norwegian recipes that use lefse – if you want to go full Norwegian, you can make this Lefse with Lutefisk recipe. Honestly, I’ve only ever seen lefse as a sweet snack. The idea of adding fish seems foreign. But that’s just me – as we’ve learned so far, lefse preference differs greatly according to region.

    Here’s a Reddit thread of what Norwegians put on lefse today.

    Trying lefse in Norway

    Now for the fun part – where can you try lefse in Norway? For this bit, I ventured out to several supermarkets and collected up the different types of lefse I found.

    For the reviews I recruited my dear husband and local Norwegian, Sean. He is born and raised in Bergen and grew up eating lefse. I’ve lived here for four years and only eat lefse with tourists. Hopefully both of our opinions will help you!

    Vestlands Lefse with Sugar and Cinnamon

    Frozen Aisle (near the frozen breads) / 55 NOK for 6 packets of Lefse / Shop Link

    Ingredients: Plain flour, sugar, margarine, milk, salt

    Vestlandslefse is produced by Orkla Foods Norway and has its origins in Os, just south of Bergen. Production started in 1959 by Inger Bøe, and her son carried on the business. The business left Os in 2012 and is now in Stranda, Møre og Romsdal. It is closest to Møsbrømlefse, Krinalefse and Lefsekling. (See product website here)

    This is the lefse my husband buys every year and this is the one he stands by. It’s also one of the very few brands to be found in the frozen aisle. This is the first lefse I tried in Norway so it’s the lefse I associate the ‘proper’ taste with – I may be a little biased here!

    My Review: I found it a little soggy when first biting into it, but I was told by Sean it was because we didn’t let them defrost enough. I love the taste – it’s super creamy and buttery and cinnamon-ey – they don’t skimp on the ingredients. This is what I buy whenever I want a snack. It’s so so good. 4.5/5

    Sean’s Review: Most traditional tasting lefse (at least for the west coast) closest thing to what has been served traditionally in my family. Filling is excellent, with right amount of cinnamon and sugar added. 4.5/5

    Where to buy: Avaiable in all supermarkets. You can also buy individual packets at kiosks (defrosted).

    Klenning Lefse with Brown Cheese

    Near the fresh breads / 19 NOK at Kiwi / Shop link

    Ingredients: Plain flour / margarine / milk / brown cheese

    “Klenning” is a type of lefse found in Trøndelag, and the brand “Berthas” is likely what you’ll buy in stores as it is the clearly dominating brand in supermarkets. When it’s in a little packet like the one seen above, it’s often called “Turklenning”, meaning you grab it and take it with you on a hike (tur=tour in English).

    This lefse comes with small pieces of brown cheese from the cheese brand Synnøve.

    My Review: I love the brown cheese inside the lefse. It adds a really special sweetness to the bread, and there’s not enough brown cheese that it’s overpowering. I was really surprised by how good this was. 4.5/5

    Sean’s Review: Brown cheese sticks out, and like the potato lefse (below), sticks out since it is the only one on the list that has a unique flavor to it with enhanced sweetness in lieu of the more traditional cinnamon

    Klenning Lefse with Sugar and Cinnamon

    Near the fresh breads / 19 NOK

    This is the ‘normal’ version of the Turklenning lefse. It’s a standard lefse and in many ways similar to the Vestlandslefse above.

    My Review: It’s a fine, typical lefse. It’s lighter on the sugar than Vestlandslefse, and fairly forgettable (I originally forgot to include it in the article). It’s a safe bet for those who are unsure if they’ll like lefse. 3.5/5

    Sean’s Review: Nothing in this lefse that sticks out, or detracts, just ultimately a generic lefse. There is a variant with cinnamon that is preferred over this. 3/5

    Lefsegodt

    Near the fresh breads / 15 NOK / Comes with two pieces

    Ingredients: made with plain flour

    This lefse has a more sandwich texture; you can see in the photos above how much thicker it is compared to the other lefse I tried. It does look like it should have a cakey texture in some recipes I found online (see here), but this particular lefse is more bready. It takes inspiration from the “tykklefse” (see recipe here) On the packet you can see it says “Norske lefse tradisjoner”, meaning it is inspired by more traditional methods of making lefse.

    My Review: I found it to be too similar to bread, and the thickness of the lefse almost hid the butter and cinnamon underneath. I also found it to be very heavy; I don’t know if I could finish a whole one. 3/5

    Sean’s Review: Bland, and consists of mostly bread. Good snack if the goal is to fill yourself up quickly, but otherwise – pass. 2/5

    Buy on Norwegian food store

    Lefse roll made from potato lefse

    Near the fresh breads / 39 NOK at Coop supermarket / Shop link

    Finally, a potato lefse! This was the only one I could find in my local supermarket and I was eager to try potato-based lefse. On the packet you can see “en smak av Lierne”, meaning it was inspired by the lefse in Lierne, a region in Trøndelag in central Norway.

    Putting “Lefserull smurte potetlefser” returns many results for savoury recipes, including lefse with salmon and lefse with ham. The recipes look delicious, but it is something I would associate more with flatbread or tortillas. I may need to try making these recipes to see if it works.

    Now, onto what I thought:

    My Review: I really wanted to like potato lefse because it seems so popular in the United States, but I found this really hard to eat. I found the potato lefse starchy and really glue-like. However, there wasn’t really any flavour coming from a filling, so I was left with eating cold, dense potatoes. It was my least favourite of them all. 2/5

    Sean’s Review: Rubbery texture, bland taste. Stands out from the other lefse types since it is made out of potatoes. Cinnamon variant exists for this, would highly recommend over the generic non-spiced variant. 3/5

    Words to know

    Here are some Norwegian words you’ll come across when seeking out lefse:

    • Lefserull = rolled up lefse
    • Kanel = cinnamon
    • Potet = potato
    • Med = with (e.g. Lefse med kanel)
    • Tur = tour/travel. Often refers to small packets you take on a hike or little snack packs
    • Sukker = sugar
    • Brunost = Brown Cheese (the brand is Synnøve Gudbrandal)

    Conclusion

    I hope this article has been useful in discovering lefse in Norway, and hopefully you’ll be able to try some on your visit.

    Building this list: if you know another type of lefse that can be found in stores, please reach out to me so I can add it to my list!