Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • The Most Famous Bergen World War II Sites

    The Most Famous Bergen World War II Sites

    On the morning of the 9th of April 1940, Norway awoke to the news that Nazi Germany had invaded. The country remained occupied until the war ended on 8 May 1945. Bergen became one of the most important places for German forces on the west coast. They built forts, bunkers, and took over public buildings. I’ve put together a list of the most important Bergen World War II sites.

    The occupation was strategic for the Germans. Norway’s proximity to the United Kingdom was important. Furthermore, the iron ore exports from Narvik meant Germany could produce war materials. The entire coast of Norway became of use for the Germans. It’s easy to see how Norway has a rich war history.

    Join my Bergen walking tour!

    I offer walking tours of the Hanseatic area of Bergen with my company I Love Bergen. 

    In this article...

    Bergen & World War II: the Occupation

    Along with other major cities in Norway, Bergen was occupied on the first day of the German invasion. German warships passed Denmark on the night of the 8th. When the Norwegian fortifications were notified, they began preparations. Forts line the coast around Bergen, but they stood no chance against German ships. The ships came with planes and approximately 1,900 men. The Bergen forts managed to damage one ship, the Koningsberg, but the rest entered the city undamaged.

    The locals awoke on the 9th to a German flag flying at the Bergen Fortress. Heavily armed German guards stood outside public buildings. The occupation had been a success.

    Sites around Bergen

    The Bergen Fortress

    The Bergen Fortress was the main headquarters of the German soldiers during the war. Most of the buildings within the fortress served a purpose. The only building they didn’t use was Håkon’s Hall. Additionally, they constructed some of their own.

    If you are planning to walk around the fortress, I recommend this excellent guide. It’s available printed at Håkon’s Hall & the Rosenkrantz Tower.

    The German Bunker

    The German bunker stands next to Håkon’s Hall. It is one of the few remains of German buildings at the fortress. In 1944, there was a large explosion of a freight ship on the harbour. The telephone exchange was destroyed by the explosion. Using 200 Soviet prisoners of war, a new bunker was built to serve as a communications bunker. The concrete can withstand attacks. After the war, Germany gave Norway some funds to tear it down. However, the bunker remains, though covered in green ivy, as a reminder of the war. Today it’s used by the Norwegian Army.

    The Explosion of Voodbode

    On the 14th of April 1944, a German freight ship docked outside the fortress exploded. The ship, Voorbode, was travelling from Oslo to Kirkenes but stopped in Bergen for repairs. Normally, a ship like this would not be allowed to stop in a major port. It was carrying 124 tonnes of explosives. Due to a lack of proper controls, the ship docked in Bergen.

    The explosion occurred early in the morning. A water column several-hundred metres high rose. Following it was sand, mud, stones, iron plates, timber and steel from the ship. The pressure wave swept the harbour, crushing everything in its path. Houses fell apart, brick buildings suffered damage, and windows 2km away smashed. Bergen was declared a disaster area. 4,536 buildings were either damaged or destroyed. 160 people died, 5,000 were injured, and 5,000 became homeless. 4,260 children were forced to evacuate to prevent illness from spreading.

    Bergenhus Festningsmuseum

    To learn more about the resistance movement during World War II, and everything about the Norwegian army, visit the Bergenhus Festningsmuseum. It is on the edge of Bergenhus near St. Mary’s Church. The exhibition about the resistance movement in Bergen 1940-1945 shows both civilian and military resistance. It demonstrates how the civilians organised against the Nazi Party Nasjonal Samling’s attempts to Nazify Norway.

    It also focuses on the military resistance developed from scattered, isolated groups to a large organisation with ties to London. The torture and execution of resistance members was common. Or they were sent to concentration camps in Europe. Despite this, the resistance movement grew stronger until the liberation. The museum has photos, weapons, espionage equipment, sabotage material, film footage, and interviews. Additional exhibitions are:

    • Women’s contribution to the Norwegian Armed Forces
    • Newspapers in Bergen during the war
    • The underground press 1940-1945
    • Norwegian forces abroad
    • Norwegian Independent Brigade Group
    • History of the fortress
    • Enigma

    The best part is – the museum is free!

    Sverresborg

    Located on a hill behind the Bergen fortress, Sverresborg is a historic fortress. However, the fortress is also interesting when it comes to the Second World War. During WWII, the German occupants established two anti-aircraft batteries in the fortress. After the war, Sverresborg became as an execution site in connection with treason. Seven Germans and one Norwegian war criminal were executed there in 1946. Today, there is no evidence of this, but it’s still worth visiting as it provides excellent views of Bergen.

    Sites around Bryggen

    Bergen’s UNESCO site Bryggen is the epicentre of local history. The wharf is a trading centre from the 11th century onwards. For a few hundred years it was the home of the German merchants, the Hanseatic League. The locals considered Bryggen German until the end of the 19th century.

    After World War II in Bergen, the locals wanted to remove any trace of the city’s German heritage. They planned to get rid of Bryggen. Luckily, a fire led to archaeological excavations which led to the discovery of Bryggen’s rich heritage. Now the wharf is under conservation. We know that Bryggen suffered damage from the explosion, but it was also home to an important resistance group.

    Theta Museum

    The Theta Museum is an important World War II site in Bergen. It the secret base of a well-known resistance group called the Theta Group. Comprised of a group of young students (aged 19-22) form Bergen, the group had some radio equipment and established contact with London. The Theta group acquired information and then passed it to London. Therefore, they assisted the British Army with the Germans in Norway. They told the British about the movements of the battleship Tirpitz. This led to the British sinking the ship near Tromsø.

    They also obtained inside information about the U-boat pens in Laksevåg (see below). The group ended when the Germans discovered their location. Some group members were sent to concentration camps and died. Meanwhile, some fled to Sweden, and some to the United Kingdom. When they returned after the war, they set up their old room to look as it had during the war, and today that room is a museum.

    When visiting the museum, you’ll be able to see their equipment, photographs, newspapers, maps, a gun, and more. It’s a little hard to get into the museum. It’s open from May-September on Tuesdays, Saturdays and Sundays from 2pm-4pm. Note that it’s very small; it’s considered to be the smallest museum in Norway! It’s located in the alley Enhjørningsgården.

    Shetland Memorial

    The Shetland Group (or Shetland Bus) is a group that made a permanent link between Shetland and Norway throughout the Second World War. Operated by small fishing boats and later submarine chasers, it grew to be part of the resistance. The purpose of the group was to transfer agents in and out of Norway. They also provided them with weapons, radios, and other supplies. They would bring out the Norwegians who feared arrest by the Germans.

    Just behind the fish market is a statue of Leif Larsen, one of the famous men of the Shetland group. He made 52 trips to Norway and became a highly decorated Allied naval officer in the Second World War.

    In the mountains

    Rundemanen

    Some old German constructions can be found at the top of Rundemanen and nearby Blåmanen. Sadly I can’t find much information on their history.

    Fløyen WWII Memorial

    If you take a trip to the top of Mt. Fløyen, you’ll notice a World War II memorial just in front of the restaurant. It is in memory of the young people who were members of sports clubs who fell for Norway between 1940 and 1945. You can read about the history of why they have been recognised here: http://www.waymarking.com/waymarks/WMPBBT_World_War_II_Memorial_Bergen_Norway

    Sandviksbatteriet

    A short walk from the city centre, the Sandviken battery was built between 1895 and 1902 to protect Bergen from possible attacks from the Swedes. The battery formed the ‘inner fortification’ to protect Bergen from attacks from the sea. It was not manned when the Germans arrived in April 1940 and did not take part in the defence of Bergen as the Germans invaded. It was then used by the Germans throughout the war.

    Voorbode Anchor

    If you hike up Sandviksfjellet, you’ll come across the anchor from the Voorbode, the German freight ship that exploded on the harbour.

    Surrounding area

    U-boat pen Bruno

    When the Germans occupied Norway, they were able to move their u-boats closer to the front and the United Kingdom. One of the submarine pens they built is Bruno, which is located in the suburb of Laksevåg. It has 3 dry boat pens, 3 wet ones, and one that is used for storage. After the Allied landings in France in June 1944, there was a massive expansion of the U-boat base in Bergen.

    This led to a massive English air raid on October 1944, involving 150 aircraft. The attack ended in disaster when 193 Norwegians, among them 61 children at a nearby school, were killed. There was another attack on Bruno later that month, but the 244 aircraft could not find the target because of heavy clouds. Instead, parts of Bergen’s city centre were bombed. Today the bunker is used by the Norwegian navy for submarine pens. It’s a little hard to see from the city, but if you take any ferry or head out to the tip of Nordnes of Sandviken, you’ll be able to see it.

    Olsvik bunker

    Little historical information exists on this bunker, but a sign outside it states that it was used by the Germans during WWII. The bunker is located in the suburb of Olsvik. To get there, take bus 40 towards Olsvik and get off at the stop ‘Olsvikåsen’. From there, it takes 15-20 minutes to talk to the top.

    Fjell Fortress

    Fjell fortress was the largest German fortress in Norway during the Second World War. Construction began in 1942, and it was completed around July 1943. The fort was designed as being a significant link in the coastal defence of Norway, and it was to stop seaward approach to Bergen.

    To mount the main gun turret, it was necessary to dig 17 metres vertically into the mountain, and this was considered a time-consuming task. The main entrance and gun emplacement were constructed as an open ditch, and later covered with concrete, instead of blasting a tunnel into and down in the solid rock. As a result, water entering the tunnel system has been a problem ever since the tunnel was constructed. The work was carried out by prisoners from Eastern Europe and Norwegian prisoners. 25 prisoners died during construction, either from frostbite, exhaustion, or execution.

    Fjell Fortress is on top of the Fjedlafjedlet Mountain, in the small town Fjell, in Fjell municipality. You can walk around the impressive labyrinth of roads 10 metres underground. The exhibitions are located in an authentic military construction inside the fortress.

    Fjell fortress is located on the island of Sotra. This Nazi coastal battery was rediscovered in 2003. The Nazis established this fortress complex with underground bunkers, barracks, a hospital and storage.

    Herdla Museum

    Located at the tip of Askøy on a moraine island, you can see both a fighter aircraft from World War II and an intact torpedo battery from the Cold War. Exhibitions are about how the island was formed, how it was used as a German airbase, as well as the areas unique bird life.

    The main attraction is the German fighter Yellow-16, which took off from the airbase at Herdla. After 64 years on the seabed, the aircraft was raised and placed at the museum. There are guided tours of the torpedo battery and the tour goes over the Cold War.

    Hellen Fort

    Hellen Fort is located near Sandviken. It was built between 1895 and 1905 and was used by the Germans during World War II. As the Germans were invading Norway on the 9th of April, they bombed the fortress, killing six Norwegians. Here’s a recent article about a recent memorial for the Norwegians who passed away: https://www.ba.no/nyheter/de-ga-alt-for-norge/s/5-8-52480

    Today the fort is mostly a hiking trail, and you can find out about the trail by clicking here.

    Kvarven Fort

    Kvarven fort is from the late 1800s. Designed to protect Norway from a potential attack against Sweden, it was never used. During WWII, 33 officers and 279 corporals and privates with an average age of 40 were at the fort. The fort failed to open fire at the first German ships, mistaking them for unarmed merchant ships. When the fort finally opened fire, it only managed to get off a few shots through the fog at two torpedo boats.

    The German ships did not retaliate but sent a morse coded message in English saying ‘stop shooting’. The fort went on to shoot the cruiser Konigsberg three times, and the ship barely survived. A few hours later, the Kvarven surrendered. German naval personnel manned the fort for the rest of the war. The fort opened in 1993 as a preserved cultural area, and now it’s a nice place to go hiking.

  • The Hanseatic League & Bergen, Simplified.

    The Hanseatic League in Bergen, Simplified.

    If you’re coming to Bergen, you have to visit Bryggen. You’ll see ‘Hanseatic League’ everywhere here, but not much information about what it is. The history of the Hanseatic League in Bergen is fascinating. It’s one of my favourite things to talk about.

    So, I’ve put together a simplified overview of the Hanseatic League in Bergen. If you want to learn more, there’s ton of information online. There’s also some great books available in the museums.

    Join my Bergen walking tour!

    I offer walking tours of the Hanseatic area of Bergen with my company I Love Bergen. 

    In this article...

    What is the Hanseatic League?

    The Hanseatic League was a commercial co-operation in Europe. The members were merchants from market towns throughout north and central Europe. Most of them lived around the Baltic Sea, where they dominated trade for three centuries.

    The word Hanse means ‘convoy’. This word refers to the groups of merchants who would travel between the Hanseatic towns by land or sea.

    The Hanseatic League’s common goal was to dominate trade, protect economic interests, gain diplomatic privileges, and establish trading routes.

    Bergen: Scandinavia's First Commercial Town

    Bergen is generally regarded as Scandinavia’s largest commercial hub. It was the largest city in Scandinavia until the 17th century, and the largest in Norway until the 19th century.

    Bergen became an important trading hub for many reasons. Most importantly, it is in a strategic geographic location. The bay, Vågen, is wide and suited to trading ships. Bergen is roughly halfway between Northern Norway (where the goods came from) and mainland Europe (who wanted the goods). Lastly, Bergen is not far from the Shetland Islands, Faroe Islands and Iceland, who came to Bergen to trade. England is close by, and became Bergen’s first major trading partner.

    Image result for medieval bergen

    Merchants in Bergen traded stockfish from Northern Norway and the islands mentioned above. Stockfish was in demand in Europe because of its longevity and tastiness. Bergen became a good midway point between supply and demand.

    They didn’t trade only stockfish. Fish oil, dried herring, sheep and goat skin, cattle hides, butter and whaling and sealing products were also Norwegian exports. Still, stockfish counted for 80-90% of Norwegian exports.

    The fishermen from Northern Norway brought stockfish to trade with goods from Europe. Wheat from England was important as it didn’t grow in Northern Norway. Beer, wine and modern equipment was also traded.

    With all this going on in Bergen, it’s unsurprising that this got the interest of the Hanseatic League.

    The Arrival of the Germans

    The first mention of German merchants in Bergen is in 1186. King Sverre, who declared himself king during the Civil War, had taken residence in Bergen. Sverre, recognising the Germans, said:

    “We want to thank all the Englishmen who had arrived here, bringing with them wheat and honey, flour or cloth. Also, we want to thank those men who have brought linen or flax, wax or cauldrons. We would also like to mention those who have come from the Orkneys, Shetlands, Faroes, or Iceland – all those who have brought to this country.

    The Germans arrive here in large numbers and with large ships. They intend to take away butter and cod to the detriment of the country, and bring in return wine that people go in for buying. Their trade has brought much evil and nothing good.” – King Sverre

    It’s clear Sverre wasn’t thrilled with the Germans, and who can blame him. After all, the introduction of wine in Bergen had caused excessive drinking, which then caused fights – some even killing people!

    The Germans started coming to Bergen as the Hanseatic League was growing in Europe. The main ‘hub’ for the Hanseatics was Lubeck. The ‘Lubeckers’ started to recognise the popularity of Bergen as a trading town. Moreover, the Lubeckers had advantages over other merchants as they were well connected. Eventually, they took over the English wheat trading. Also, instead of using Bergen merchants as the middle man, they traded directly with the fishermen. The fishermen became dependent on Hanseatic products. They began to seek out only German merchants.

    The Early German Traders

    The first Hanseatic merchant began to rent accommodation in Bergen in 1259. Shortly after, another German bought the house. By 1300, Bryggen (the wharf) was dominated by German merchants.

    Not only German merchants came to Bergen. German craftsmen came to take advantage of the trade business. Shoemakers from Germany were granted a monopoly of shoemaking. Other craftsmen who came to Bergen included goldsmiths, furriers, tailors, cutters, bakers, and barbers (Fun fact: The German Hanseatics brought the cinnamon and the skills that perfect Bergen’s famous and unique cinnamon bun!).

    In 1294, the King of Norway granted merchants from German towns the right to sell freely in Norwegian towns. They were not allowed to sell in rural locations, and could not sail further north than Bergen. Lastly, he declared that Bergen was to be the main place for trade with Northern Norway and the islands. This was good news for the Hanseatic League.

    The Hanseatic League

    During the start of the 14th century, the Germans became a little bit more organised. They established their area around Bryggen as an official Hanseatic Kontor (office). Bergen is the fourth kontor; the others are Novgorod, Brugge and London.

    The royals in Norway didn’t like Bergen becoming a Kontor. They tried to fight against the Kontor having its own laws. The Germans continuously fought back, and it got nasty. For example, in 1311, the Bishop of Bergen said the Germans must pay tax. The Germans refused, boycotted trade, killed the Bishop, 60+ locals, and burned down the monastery. Eventually, they got their way.

    The dominance of the Hanseatic League in Bergen settled thanks to the Black Death. The Black Death killed 70% of Bergen’s population. The loss in population saw the trade business shut down. Warehouses were abandoned, and the government and royals lost power. However, Europe still wanted stockfish. The King allowed the Germans to settle in abandoned warehouses along Bryggen.

    The authorities tried to govern the Germans, but it became impossible. The Hanseatic League was too powerful and too organised. They also controlled trade, and Norway needed supplies coming in. Against the wishes of the Norwegians, the Hanseatic League chased out Dutch and English merchants. 1,000 Hanseatic merchants lived in Bryggen, which became their own city within Bergen.

    Image result for hanseatic crest bergen

    Image result for The German Kontor in 1817 by J.F. L Dreier

    Organisation on Bryggen

    German merchants owned firms, located inside the tenements (long rows of buildings) on Bryggen. Each tenement had up to 15 firms inside. The Germans owned the building but not the land.

    Each firm had storerooms, sleeping quarters, living rooms and workshops. Each tenement had a quay at the front, a crane, a private passage along the tenement, and a kitchen at the back.

    The firm had a manager, while the owner lived in Germany. The manager oversaw the capital and used it to pay for the stockfish. The manager kept a small part of the profit. The goal was to save enough money to buy a firm, go back to Germany, and live very comfortably.

    The Hanseatic League operated a complicated trade system, often down through credit. The managers oversaw the credit system. They were so meticulous and careful with paperwork. The museum in Bergen has all the paperwork showing every manager and every transaction back to the 16th century.

    The German merchants needed to secure a regular flow of stockfish from North Norway. They paid the fishermen (in forms of wheat and goods from Europe) in advance. Money was never used on Bryggen. The fisherman was then tied to the German through this kind of debt. If the fisherman brought less stockfish, they could make up for it the next year.

    The fishermen and the firms had a good relationship. They trusted each other, and would work together for many generations. While the Hanseatics were not popular in Bergen, they were popular in Northern Norway.

    The Hanseatic League didn’t only rely on Northern Norway. They traded with Iceland, the Faroes, Shetland for goods from the north. In Norway, they traded with ecclesiastical institutions, local magnates and clergymen. Even the Crown ended up working with the Hanseatic League.

    Social Life, Law & Order

    Governing the Hanseatic League on Bryggen took place in the Merchants House. The building stood in the middle of Bryggen; today it’s where the wooden and brick buildings meet. Six merchants sat on the council, settling legal matters in cooperation with the council in Lubeck. If someone wanted to appeal, they’d have to go to the Hanseatic Court in Lubeck.

    St. Mary’s Church was the Hanseatic parish church. In 1408, the church was formally assigned to the Hanseatics by the Bishop of Bergen. It remained theirs until 1766. The Hanseatic League loved the church. They mention the church in their wills, donated artwork, and were often buried outside the church.

    The End of the Hanseatic League

    The reasons why the Hanseatic League continued to succeed on Bryggen varies. Firstly, Norway was a poor country with few skilled merchants. The Germans were very skilled in the fish trade and had great knowledge of the European markets. They were useful to the Norwegian economy. Importantly, the King didn’t want to shut them down until the Norwegians had the resources and strength to export the fish themselves. Secondly, the North Norwegians fought to keep the Hanseatic League operating. As late as 1680, they were saying that the Hanseatic League ending in Bryggen would be a disaster. To further complicate things, the 16th and 17th centuries saw many wars between Denmark-Norway and Sweden. Whenever war trade became complicated, the cities were closed off. Neutral German merchants could still continue business as usual.

    Eventually, though, the Kontor did come to an end. On the 10th of August 1630, one of the German firm owners deserted the Kontor and registered himself as a Bergen merchant. Bryggen was no longer 100% German.

    By 1702, there were 19 Norwegian firms compared to 34 German firms, and in 1754 the German Kontor was disbanded and a new trading organisation was formed – the Norwegian Kontor. In 1766, the very last German firm passed into Norwegian hands.

    But it wasn’t the end of the German presence in Bergen. Trade with the Northern fishermen remained, and business was still conducted in the German language. The Norwegian merchants were even offered free German classes so they could understand their accounts and attend St. Mary’s Church. While Bryggen became more Norwegian throughout the 1800s, the German presence remained until the Norwegian Kontor closed its doors in 1899. But you can still see the German presence today – the street name is Tyskebryggen (The German Wharf).

    Image result for hamburg logo
    Hamburg Coat of Arms

    Coat of arms of Bergen - Wikipedia

    Today, the buildings at Bryggen form the only Hanseatic Kontor remaining in Europe. Despite the fact that the Germans were often controlling, brutal, demanding, and isolated themselves, there’s no denying that the Germans provided Norwegians with access to food and good they would otherwise struggle to get. So, to counter King Sverre’s opinion that the German trade brought much evil and nothing good, it’s clear to see that the Hanseatic trade was an overall positive part of Norwegian history.

    Further Reading

    Read about the Hanseatic League throughout Europe on the fantastic website http://www.hanse.org.

    Wikipedia has a great overview of the Hanseatic League here.

    History of the Hanseatic League in Bergen on http://www.forbes.com