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  • Stavanger

    Interesting Facts About Stavanger

    When preparing for my visit to Stavanger, I did a lot of research. I wrote about Stavanger’s history, Gamle Stavanger, made my own walking tour and visited the Oil Museum. Here are all the interesting facts about Stavanger I found along the way.

    Note – more interesting facts can be found in my self-guided walking tour. I have two pages all about life in Stavanger today, with up-to-date statistics.

    ‘The Colour Street’

    Stavanger

    • Stavanger is the fourth-largest city in Norway after Oslo, Bergen and Trondheim
    • The population of Stavanger (in 2020) is 121,610
    • Stavanger has the largest collection of wooden houses in northern Europe with around 8,000 timber buildings in the city.
    • Immigrants make up 11.3% of Stavanger’s population
    Stavanger Cathedral

    Historical Facts

    • There is archaeological evidence that people have lived in the Stavanger area since 3000BC
    • Stavanger was an important place for the Vikings; in 872 the Battle of Hafrsfjord took place. This battle played a role in the unification of Norway. After this battle, King Harald the Fairhair declared that he was the sole ruler of the kingdom of Norway
    • Stavanger is one of Norway’s oldest cities; it was founded in 1125
    • The Stavanger Cathedral is the oldest stone cathedral in Norway – older than Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim!
    • In the 1880s, a woman’s grave from the Viking Age was found in Guselskogen. It is regarded as among the richest women’s graves from the Viking era. Several objects found show Irish heritage (Vikings ruled parts of Ireland). About 40 objects were found, including silver and bronze clasps, silver arm rings, a finger-ring, pearls, knives, cooking equipment and parts of a reliquary. The objects are now part of the Bergen Museum.
    • Christian Bjelland (1858-1927) was the founder of Chr. Bjelland & Co AS, Norway’s largest canned goods producer and amongst the largest in Scandinavia. He became one of the great industrialists of his time in 1908 was made a Knight, 1st Class of the Royal Norwegian Order of St. Olav for his contribution to building the Norwegian canning industry.
    • In 1980, there was a large oil accident. The Alexander L. Kielland semi-submersible drilling rig capsized while working in the Ekofisk oil field, killing 123 people. The rig was owned by the Stavanger Drilling Company of Norway.
    Blue skies in Stavanger

    Geography & Climate

    • Compared to many other places in Norway, Stavanger has a relatively flat landscape; most of the municipality is between 0 and 50 metres above sea level
    • Stavanger’s highest point is the 139-metre (456 ft) tall Jåttånuten
    • Stavanger is influenced heavily by the Gulf Stream, making it much warmer throughout the year. The record high temperature is 34C (93F)
    • Stavanger is a relatively wet city, with 1,180 millimetres (46 in) of rain a year
    Torget, the main square in Stavanger

    Work Life

    • Stavanger has 29% of the county’s industrial employment, mostly thanks to oil
    • Engineering is now the main industry with 59 percent of manufacturing employment. This is mostly related to the offshore petroleum industry, and production of oil platforms alone account for 40 percent.
    • Stavanger is the fourth most important maritime city in Norway when counting number of registered fleets. Oslo, Bergen and Ålesund make up the other three spots.
    • Stavanger is often referred to as Norway’s answer to the French food region of Lyon. The Culinary Institute has provided a very important focus on food in Stavanger. Every year there is the “Happy Food Festival” in Stavanger. By 2020, Stavanger intends to be the region most Norwegians associate with food products and culinary experiences.
    • Tourism is on the rise in Stavanger. Cruise ships are becoming more common, and Stavanger is one of Europe’s fasted growing ports of call for cruise ships north of the Mediterranean.
    • The University of Stavanger is the fifth university established in Norway. It has 9,000 students
    • Domestic and military installations are located in Stavanger, including the NATO Joint Warfare Centre
    View from the Oil Museum

    Transport

    • Stavanger Train Station connects the city with Oslo, Drammen, Kristiansand, and Jaeren.
    • The journey to Oslo on train takes around 7 hours
    • Stavanger Airport is 14 minutes from the city centre
    • The airport links Stavanger with Oslo (1.5 million passengers a year) and Bergen (700,000 passengers a year). Other domestic destinations are Trondheim, Vaernes and Kristiansand
    • Stavanger Airport has international flights to Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Aberdeen, London, Paris, Barcelona, Stockholm and Warsaw
    • The FjordLine ferry connects Stavanger with Bergen to the north and Hirtshals in Denmark to the south
    Street art

    Culture

    • Stavanger’s main newspaper is called the Stavanger Aftenblad. It came out with its first issue in 1893
    • Stavanger was named the European Capital of Culture for 2008.
    • Alexander Kielland is from Stavanger. He is considered one of the four great writers of Norway.
    • The most visited museum in the city is the Norwegian Petroleum Museum
    • The oldest museum in the city is the Missjonmusset, established in 1864. It has 5,000 exhibits containing objects of ethnographic and historical interest.
    • South West Film Forum is the organisation for those who work in the film industry. Their goal is to increase the skills of film workers in the region.
    • Local filmmaking in Stavanger gets special grants, aiming to boost the industry
    • One of the first successful Stavanger-made films was Mongoland
    • Another famous film made in Stavanger is Nokas (2010), about the famous NOKAS robbery that took place in Stavanger in 2004
    • The latest Mission Impossible movie was filmed on Pulpit Rock just outside Stavanger
    • The largest football club in Stavanger is Viking FK, one of the most successful clubs in Norwegian history
    • The Stavanger Oilers is the only western team in the top Norwegian ice hockey league
    • Stavanger participates in the annual Nuart Festival. Every September, a team of internationally acclaimed street artists contribute to “one of Europe’s most dynamic and constantly evolving public events.”

    Random Interesting Facts about Stavanger

    • King Oscar sardines originated in Stavanger!

    Do you have any interesting facts about Stavanger?

    Add them in the comments!

  • History, Stavanger

    The History of Stavanger, Simplified

    The History of Stavanger, Simplified

    Stavanger is one of those cities I’ve never really looked into, never mind the history of Stavanger. When my husband asked me to plan my dream Norwegian road-trip, I thought it is worth spending a couple days in Stavanger. I didn’t think the history would tell much of a story…

    Until I read about it.

    The history of Stavanger is fascinating. It was one of the most important bases for the Vikings. It has Norway’s oldest cathedral (take that, Nidaros). Don’t shy away from Stavanger because of its oil wealth. There’s so much going on here.

    Here’s the history of Stavanger summarised, keeping in all the good bits.

    In this article...

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The first peoples

    The first traces of people in Stavanger comes from the islands. It’s believed that people came here from the North Sea or the land area known as Doggerland. Doggerland was located between Denmark and England. It flooded after the last Ice Age, so its peoples looked for new land, and they came to Stavanger.

    During The Bronze Age (1800-500BC), wealthy chieftains emerged in Stavanger. They made trade connections with Europe. This gave them horses and bronze status symbols. They lived in fancy longhouses, and were buried in large burial mounds. Many archaeological finds from this time have been found, the richest ones on the island Austre Amøy (https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Austre_%C3%85m%C3%B8y).

    Jæren, the area south of Stavanger (see the scenic route) is (and has always been) an important place for agriculture. There are traces of 200 farms from the migration period. It’s possible to visit Jernaldergården (https://am.uis.no/jernaldergarden/), a rebuilt migration-period farm.

    A monument for the Battle of Hafrsfjord

    The Viking Age

    Stavanger had Vikings. In fact, Stavanger is one of the most important bases for the Vikings, signalled by the famous Battle of Hafrsfjord in 872. This is the battle that unified Norway as one kingdom under a ruler. The victorious Viking chief Harald Fairhair proclaimed himself King of the Norwegians. The battle, and Stavanger, is mentioned in Harald Fairhair’s Saga Heimskringla (http://heimskringla.no/wiki/Soga_um_Harald_Haarfagre), written by Snorri Sturlason.

    Most importantly, there is evidence in North Jæren suggesting a powerful chieftain lived there around the Viking Age. The area is also likely a starting point for the Viking voyages to the British Isles. Most importantly, more Irish metalwork is found in this area than in any other comparable area in Europe.

    Ullandhaug Iron Age Farm (source: Wikipedia)

    Several finds from the Viking Age were uncovered in Stavanger. Perhaps the most famous is the Gausel Queen’s tomb on Gausel (https://web.archive.org/web/20110724175532/http://www.gausel.no/art_rlb97.htm) The grave is one of Norway’s richest woman graves from the Viking Age, and it contained a number of Irish and domestic elements. The manor house on Gausel was likely a centre of power during the Viking Age, and rich finds from boat graves on the site show that there was military and political power here.

    The objects from this grave are on display in the Bergen Museum.

    Christianity comes to Stavanger

    The first Christian impulses came to Stavanger through trade with Europe and Great Britain during the Viking Age. In the mid-10th century, the traditional Norse burial customs stopped. Around the same time, the priests began their work.

    Large stone crosses have been found throughout Stavanger municipality signalling early Christianity. One of the most known is the memorial cross for Erling Skjalgasson, who controlled the south west coast at the time. He fell in 1028 and the cross was put up soon after. The inscription on the cross shows a priest was responsible and the site may have been used as an early church.

    The founding of Stavanger

    Stavanger is one of Norway’s oldest cities. By the early 12th century, it was growing as an urban centre. The Stavanger bishopric was established in the 1120s, Stavanger was officially founded in connection with the construction of the Stavanger Cathedral.

    Bishop Reinhald, who likely came from Winchester in England, is said to have started the construction of the Stavanger Cathedral. It was finished in 1125, and that’s when Stavanger considers its founding.

    St. Mary’s Church shortly before it was torn down

    The fire of 1272

    A large fire in 1272 destroyed much of the inner urban area and cathedral. St. Mary’s Church was built in Stavanger shortly after this fire in a Gothic style. In 1883, a runestone of quartz was found in the foundation wall of the church. The stone says “Kjetil erected this stone after his wife Jorun Utyrmsdatter” and it is from 1000-1050. The church has since been demolished, but there’s a plaque next to Stavanger Cathedral.(https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mariakirken_i_Stavanger) Furthermore, remains under the cathedral shows that there may have been an earlier building on the site from the 800s or 1000s.

    The Reformation

    At the beginning of the 16th century, Stavanger was still the religious centre for southwestern Norway. The Reformation had serious effects on Stavanger as a whole.

    The Reformation dealt a hard blow to the Church and Stavanger. The cathedral, bishop and canons of the monastery were large landowners at the time. Recession began with the loss of people in rural areas, and as a result the revenues of the cathedral and bishop fell dramatically due to reduced income. The King confiscated the bishop’s and monastery’s estate and property. St. Swithun’s casket (https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Svithuns_skrin) disappeared, likely sent to Copenhagen to be melted down and made into coins.

    17th Century Growth

    Stavanger didn’t see growth until the beginning of the 17th century. There was cultural growth in the city, especially with the Stavanger Renaissance, when famous artists from abroad came to create artworks in the city. Their most famous work was the rich redecorating of the Cathedral.(https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stavangerrenessansen)

    The 17th century fires. Photo: Arne Kvitrud, 2018. (Source)

    Sure, there were outbreaks of the plague in 1618 and 1629, and Stavanger did have many fires in the 17th and 18th centuries, but trade was growing with Europe and Great Britain. When the famous Kielland family moved in, the city saw a new generational change.

    19th century industrialisation

    Gamle Stavanger around 1910. In the background you can see a canning factory (Source)

    A model of Stavanger representing the year 1800. (Source)

    Industry came to Stavanger in the 19th century, and the city found new purpose. The most important industries to emerge was shipping, shipbuilding, and the fish canning industry.

    A huge upswing in the precious herring fishing (what Stavanger had lived on since the 16th century) at the turn of the century led to wealth and prosperity. However, it was the low herring catches in the 1870s and 1880s that made the city realise they had to expand beyond these industries. With that, the canning industry began.

    The canning industry

    The old Stavanger Preserving Co. Building

    Stavanger Preserving, founded in 1873, is Stavanger’s oldest canning factory. The factory didn’t just bring canning to Stavanger, but also let to the growth of other industries such as packaging factories, printing houses, box factories and so on.

    Chr. Bjelland & Co AS is the largest and most famous canning factory. Founded by Christian Bjelland (1858-1927), the company initially focused on fresh fish products but from 1889 onwards started processing anchovies in a tin can. In 1893, the company picked up the production of sardines packed with a hermetic seal. (https://www.kingoscar.no/om-oss/historien-om-king-oscar/)

    The company is famous for its creative packaging, often depicting Norwegian heroes such as Fridtjof Nansen. You probably recognise the Kong Oscar brand (still in shops today), for which Christian Bjelland received royal permission to use the image of Oscar II of Sweden. (https://www.norwegianamerican.com/food/king-of-the-sea/)

    The customs house (Source)

    Early 20th Century

    At the turn of the century, Stavanger’s industry was mainly related to fisheries and shipping. Canning was still the main industry; Stavanger earned the nickname “Norway’s canned capital”.

    The interwar depression hit the city hard. The population, which in 1815 reached 2500, increased to 23,500 in 1875. In 1890, the population was only 24,400. By 1920, the population had reached 50,400. (https://snl.no/Stavanger_-_historie)

    Skagen in 1910 (Source)

    World War II

    In the early morning of the 9th of April 1940 Germany invaded Norway. Stavanger had been one of the first targets for the Germans; the day before they had anchored a freighter close to the city despite Norwegian protest. On the 9th, explosions and bomb blasts on Sola Airport and news bulletins on the radio announced the attack on Norway.

    German soldier in Stavanger 1941 (Source)

    German soldiers in Stavanger on Skagen (Source)

    The bombardment on Sola Airport lasted an hour before 52 transport aircraft from Hamburg arrived. In a parachute assault, the transport planes dropped yellow containers containing weapons and equipment and then between ten and twelve paratroopers from each plane. This is the second-ever wartime parachute assault.

    The Norwegians surrendered and 200 to 300 transport aircraft arrived during the day. At 12:30pm, the first German troops advanced on Stavanger without resistance and took over the most important buildings in the city. By the evening, several hundred soldiers and large quantities of material were now at Sola Airport.

    During the war, the Germans had placed high priority on having a good railway linking the airbase at Sola with the rest of the country. The Southern Railway opened in 1944, three years later than planned.

    When the war ended in 1945, there were 15,000 German soldiers in Rogaland County. Before repatriation, the Germans were required to clean up after five years of occupation. 180 German minefields lay along the coast with a total of 480,000 mines. The German Wehmacht were required to clear them. 62 Germans died and 94 were injured during the mine clearance. Mines from this period continue to be uncovered.

    Immediate post-war years

    Little changed for the business community in Stavanger immediately following the war. The canning industry disappeared in the 1960s; during the First World War there had been 54 canning companies with 8000 employees and accounted for 70% of the country’s canned exports.

    Shipping and shipbuilding made up the bulk of industry during the 1950s and 1960s, and were very useful in the brand-new industry that was about to emerge.

    Discovery of oil

    You can’t talk about Stavanger without mentioning the oil industry. After the discovery of oil in the North Sea, Stavanger became the hub for the Norwegian oil sector in the North Sea. A period of hectic growth followed. More than just the general oil industry, consulting companies, local engineering, catering came to Stavanger, as well as growth in the public and private sector.

    Stavanger Today

    The Norwegian Petroleum Museum opened in 1999, and tourism has been growing in importance ever since. Stavanger is becoming a major Norwegian cruise port.

    The University of Stavanger opened in 2005.

    As of 2019/2020 the Ryfast tunnel opened; it is the world’s longest underwater tunnel.

    History of Stavanger

    I hope you enjoyed this overview of the history of Stavanger!

    You can read a more in-depth version of this history, plus walk through Stavanger yourself, with my self-guided walking tour.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Stavanger, Walking Guides

    A Walk Through Gamle Stavanger

    Gamle (Old) Stavanger is probably the most known part of Stavanger. It is certainly one of the most visited tourist attractions in the city, and rightly so. Gamle Stavanger is a preserved district of around 155 wooden houses from the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s incredibly charming, scenic, picturesque, and Norwegian.

    I’ve written a walking guide to Stavanger, where I provide a detailed overview of where to walk in Gamle Stavanger. If you are interested in that, click here.

    This article is more of a general guide to Gamle Stavanger. The goal here is to show you what the area is all about and why it’s such a great place to visit.

    Before we start, I should say there is very little information on each individual house and street. There are (very expensive) books on Gamle Stavanger in Norwegian, but as of writing there’s very little in English. I also find it interesting that this is referred to as ‘Old Stavanger’, when the town centre (see the self-guided walk) is much older.

    Stavanger Travel Guide

    History of Gamle Stavanger

    View over Gamle Stavanger in the early 20th century (Source)

    It’s not sure how old Gamle Stavanger is. Some houses have been here since the 1700s, but the area was mostly open pastures. Before 1820, there was one row of warehouses along the bay and a few scattered properties on the slope above it.

    As a result of rich herring fishing, shipping, and shipbuilding, there was a huge population growth between 1815-1880. The area where Gamle Stavanger is became the city’s first housing development. The first houses built here were tiny; during an economic boom in the 1860s and 1870s, many were demolished to make way for larger houses. Some original houses remain, but many only exist as parts of a newer construction.

    Source (Click Here)

    After World War II, there was interest in demolishing houses to build apartments. In 1951, Einar Heden (1916-2001) took the initiative to preserve the dilapidated Gamle Stavanger.  On 11 November 1957, the Gamle Stavanger Foundation was founded. Heden became the association’s first chairman. Over the next few years, more began to care about Gamle Stavanger. In 1965 the Council voted unanimously to preserve Gamle Stavanger and 79 buildings. 10 years later, the area was expanded to 154 houses – the current regulation.

    Source (Click Here)

    Today, it is recognised that the existence of Gamle Stavanger is thanks to Heden. Before his conservation work, Gamle Stavanger was one of the least desirable areas. It consisted of rundown wooden buildings owned by the lowest classes. Today Gamle Stavanger is one of the wealthiest areas to live.

    The Canning Industry

    The canning industry is important to Stavanger, and there is a Canning Museum located here. Note that the museum is closed for an extensive renovation and will be closed until spring 2021.

    While most of the factories have been torn down, some still exist. For example, close to the tourist information centre is this grand red building. This is where the Stavanger Preserving Co. was located.

    This is the first cannery to be built in Stavanger, established in 1873.

    The building is no longer used as a cannery; in the 1980s, the company merged with Norway Foods and moved headquarters. Today this building is a bank.

    The Oldest House in Gamle Stavanger

    Villa Blidensol is Stavanger’s oldest house, after the Cathedral and the Bishop’s Chapel.

    Blidensol is first mentioned on a map in 1726. It is next mentioned in a written source in 1737. The building itself is thought to be from 1777, though some believe it is older – it’s hard to know what’s original, what was moved here, etc. The villa is built in an Empire style that was probably added in the period 1805-1820. Much of the interior is unchanged.

    The first known owner is Laurits Andersen Smith (1680-1758). He bought several smaller plots and merged them into a large estate. The name isn’t very Norwegian; that is because he came from Scotland. Laurits is the son of Andrew Smith, who did the wood carvings inside Stavanger Cathedral. They owned the home until 1825. From then on, the large estate was continuously subdivided into smaller plots.

    When lawyer Christen Iben Minos bought the house in the mid-1980s, it was quite decayed. He and his wife extensively restored and modernised the house, though keeping it in an old style. Today the villa is privately owned and it’s a little tricky to see.

    The White Houses

    A true highlight of Gamle Stavanger is the white houses. These houses are very characteristically Norwegian, with their weatherboard and ceramic tile roof.

    For me it was a photographers dream, especially with the sun shining. Here are some photos of the houses.

    Characteristic ceramic tile roof. Ceramic is local to Stavanger

    Gamle Stavanger consists of around 173 buildings, though this has risen to 250.

    Why are the houses wooden?

    Wood has historically been the cheapest source of material and more easy to obtain than stone. Stone, on the other hand, is for important buildings like the Stavanger Cathedral. In history, white was the most expensive coat of paint as it showed wealth. The reason these houses are white is not because of this, but because in the 19th century neoclassical was the style, and neoclassical meant white houses.

    On some of the houses, you’ll see mirrors sticking out the side. This is very typical of houses close by the sea. In the old times, if you’re sitting inside and hear someone coming your way, you can use this two-way mirror to check who it is. If it’s someone you like, you can welcome them inside. If it’s someone you don’t like, pretend to not be home! The wives would use these mirrors when gossiping with friends; their husbands were often away at sea.

    In the background you can see the city centre.
    Who owns the houses?

    The houses are privately owned. Originally these were the poorest homes in the city, but now they have become some of the most desired homes. The price tag reflects this.

    Here are two examples of places for sale at the moment. The one at the top is a house with two bedrooms (soverom) on sale for 3.1 million NOK. The second one is an apartment with one bedroom on sale for 3.6 million NOK.

    Issues with Tourists

    In recent years Gamle Stavanger has become a popular destination with tourists. That’s (of course) fine, but in the last couple years there have been issues with tourists. Mostly the issue is that some tourists have been looking through mailboxes, peeking through windows, and even walking into people’s private gardens! Some believe that, because it’s a collection of old buildings, it must be an open air museum. Locals own these homes. You cannot start violating their privacy. I know my readers won’t do it, but keep in mind people do it.

    Part of the problem is the growing number of cruise ships, which dock right outside Gamle Stavanger. The pollution and overcrowding is becoming a problem for residents. Just look at these photos:

    You can see Gamle Stavanger to the left. Source

    Just Google ‘Gamle Stavanger cruise ship’ for many photos like this (or click here).

    In 2019, 234 cruise ships called at Stavanger bringing 496,000 passengers. The vast majority of these come between the tourist season – May to September. Some cruise ships carry up to 5,000 passengers. (Source)

    Don’t get me wrong; I don’t mind cruise ships. After all, I’m a local guide and rely on that income. Cruise ships can do a lot of good. If you’re coming to Stavanger on a cruise ship, be sure to be extra nice to the locals. If you’re going to be in Stavanger when there’s a cruise ship in, perhaps reconsider when you want to leave the hotel room!

    Einar Heden’s Plass

    This is a small square where you can sit and reflect. The name is from the man who saved Gamle Stavanger – city architect Einar Heden.

    You’ll see an old power post in the backyard of one of the houses. The square also offers lovely views of Stavanger town.

    Visiting Gamle Stavanger

    Gamle Stavanger is a free, public area in Stavanger city centre. There are plenty of shops, cafes and some museums. It’s perfect for an afternoon visit.

    Gamle Stavanger is located about a five minute walk from the city centre (see circled area above).

    Have you been to Gamle Stavanger? Share your experience in the comments.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
  • Museums, Stavanger

    All You Need to Know about the Oil Museum in Stavanger

    All You Need to Know about the Oil Museum in Stavanger

    On my visit to Stavanger in September 2020, we were stuck looking for places to visit. I am a huge Norwegian history geek, so I was hoping to see the Canning Museum and the Archaeological Museum, but both were closed due to the corona virus. To top things off, we were in Stavanger on my 30th birthday. In a bid to find something to do (and get relief from the cold weather), we went to the oil museum in Stavanger. I never thought I’d turn 30 in an oil museum, but here we are!

    Honestly, the oil museum in Stavanger is a fascinating look into Norway’s petroleum industry. My husband went on about how he felt like he was back in high school (they were taught a lot about the oil industry in Norwegian schools). I learned some things I never new about oil, so it felt worth it.

    In this article...

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The oil industry

    While the museum has a ton of information about the oil industry, I think it’s worth going in with a general understanding about Norway’s oil industry.

    The oil industry is a big topic and hard to condense. When I’m doing tours around Norway, I give a topic about the good, bad and ugly of the oil industry. I’m working on adjusting that into a blog post.

    In the meantime, you can read about the oil industry on the Norwegian government website (it’s in English). Click here.

    The oil museum in Stavanger

    The Oil Museum (Oljemuseet) shows how oil, particularly offshore operations, is Norway’s most important industry. The exhibitions present historical developments in the oil industry. It starts with the exploration in the North Sea and the construction of steel and concrete platforms. It goes right up to modern production ships and subsea systems. Then, the exhibitions look to the future of the oil industry.

    Moreover, the museum is stunning to look at. It’s probably unsurprising that it is designed by an architectural firm, and part of the museum looks like an oil platform when viewed from the outside. The building is a landmark in the Port of Stavanger.

    The Oil Museum opened on the 20th of May 1999 by King Harald V. Currently, it is the most visited museum in Stavanger.

    The museum is a stop on my self-guided walking tour of Stavanger:

    Exhibitions

    The exhibitions include technological advances and how oil revenue has affected Norwegian society. Climate change is a focal point, especially issues with greenhouse gas emissions and global warming. Original objects, models, films, and interactive exhibits convey the history of oil operations on the Norwegian continental shelf. Information boards explain what it’s like to work offshore and underwater.

    For kids, they can slide down a real rescue chute and play on a miniature oil platform. There are tons of interactive exhibits for them to try.

    The museum is spread out over two floors. You enter on the lower floor.

    Lower floor exhibitions

    When you first enter the museum, there’s an extensive timeline. It outlines the development of the oil industry in Norway, from the first exploration to the present day. Since we are in Stavanger, there’s a focus on how the town changed with the discovery of oil. It’s a fascinating timeline with plenty of documents, images and text. You could spend 20 minutes or one hour reading the timeline.

    Short film

    The staff will likely recommend that you watch the short film first. It’s a fictional film and not a documentary, so it’s going to be quite different from the types of museum films you expect. Starring famous Norwegian actor Kristoffer Joner, the film explores a man reflecting on his childhood in Stavanger during the oil boom. His father worked on the rigs, and Joner’s character is bitter towards the oil industry. After all, it took away time with his father. The story is a little out there, but the footage of Stavanger in the 1970s is very interesting. I especially liked how it showed the American influence on Stavanger, with all the bars and cars. 

    Future of the oil industry

    Lastly, on the lower floor, there’s an exhibition about the future of the Norwegian oil industry. Before you go into the exhibit, you’ll see a row of various drilling bits. They kind of remind me of the creatures from horror and sci fi movies!

    The exhibition explains how the oil is state-owned, with the profits being invested abroad. There’s a counter with the current value of the Norwegian oil fund and the current price of oil:

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    What’s great about this exhibition is that it has a balanced opinion. The exhibition shows the protests and newspaper articles in Norway that has had a negative opinion about the oil industry. At the same time, the exhibition shows where they plan to drill for oil in the future, namely in the Arctic. This is a very heated debate at the moment in Norway.

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Moreover, the exhibition also explains what exactly the oil and gas is used for. Norwegian gas supplies 25% of gas to Europe and the UK. Also, Norway doesn’t use its own oil! A downstairs exhibit explains how the steel pipelines are placed on the seabed, linking the Norwegian continental shelf to Norway, Germany, France, Belgium and the UK.

    The upper floor

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    You enter the oil platform recreation once upstairs. It’s a really cool place to walk around, and we had fun messing about in the control room section. All the equipment is authentic and interesting to look at. However, I know so little about the oil platforms that it all looked so foreign. The upstairs exhibitions explain how they search for oil and how the drills work in the ground. From the upstairs platform, you can go outside and slide down a net. We did not as the net looked like it may break one of our bones. There’s also lovely views of Stavanger from the outside!

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    An upstairs exhibition focuses on the impact of climate change around the world. It focuses on Norway’s role in combating climate change. Displays explain protests in Norway against oil, overpopulation, and the government’s decisions. It’s a mixed view, though it may lean towards painting Norway in a positive light. Other topics are changes in the free marked, international collaboration, and technological changes. You can read about the exhibition on their website.

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    The last upstairs exhibition is about the North Sea, focusing on how they work out there. There’s a film showing a British man connecting pipes underwater that is interesting to watch. I was fascinated by the fact they have to spend a good portion isolated as they readjust to the pressure above the sea. You can try on the helmets they wear underwater too.

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Practical Information

    Languages

    The signboards are in English and Norwegian. They have brochures available in more languages like German, Russian and French.

    Restaurant

    Attached to the museum is the Bølgen and Moi Restaurant with lunch and dinner. It has a small but excellent menu plus an extensive drinks range. We had a burger split between the two of us (they even cut the burger in half!) and a local apple juice plus a coffee. It was really good and just what we needed.

    Read about the restaurant

    Visit their website

    Souvenir Shop

    The souvenir shop has a lot of science toys, including experiment kits, slinkies, goo, and so on. If you’ve been to a science museum and seen the kids’ section of the souvenir shop, it’s very similar. There are some t-shirts and caps with the museum logo, and a small collection of books (most are in Norwegian. There’s also some jewellery, if that’s your thing. We bought a magnet from the museum, as we do everywhere.

    Read about the shop.

    Guided Tours

    The museum does offer guided tours in Norwegian, English and German. However, these are not regularly scheduled and most be booked in advanced. They are generally for large tour groups and not couples or individual travellers. That’s a shame because they offer oil tasting at the restaurant, which would be cool to experience.

    Read more

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Southern Norway, Stavanger, Walking Guides

    The Streets of Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    The Streets of Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    I love Stavanger. It’s one of those places that I didn’t think much of at first, until I really got to walk around. It’s got such a fascinating history, from the Cathedral’s founding to the canning industry and now this oil wealth. When visitors come to Stavanger, they typically go straight to Gamle Stavanger. In my opinion, the city centre is just as charming with its wooden houses, architecture, and history. So, I made a Stavanger self-guided walking tour.

    In this article...

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Start: Torget

    Welcome to Stavanger! Our walk starts at Torget, the main square and centre of Stavanger. Until the 11th century, it was nothing more than a bay in the middle of a sandy beach. It was filled in and extended by the locals, and over the centuries has become an important commerce and meeting place. 

    Today Torget has a new fish market building and several restaurants. More houses stood here originally, but over the last century, they were removed. All the old warehouses are now restaurants and bars.

    Kongsgård Royal Estate

    Kongsgård is a historic royal residence. The property owned all this land you see around you now, including the lake. Until the Reformation, the building was used by the bishop and his staff. The bishop’s manor was looted, and houses were burned down during Pentecost 1539 by about 60 pirates. In 1607, the sheriff received permission to rebuilt, and he did. However, by the late 18th century Kongsgård was broke. 

    Kongsgård became the Stavanger Cathedral School in 1824. Kongsgård is mentioned a lot in the writing of Alexander Kielland as he was a student here.

    During World War II, the Germans used Kongsgård as a quarter for the Local German Commander. A fire on Easter Sunday 1942 destroyed large parts of the building. Initially, the Germans didn’t want to let the fire brigade put out the fire. As a result, the extend of the fire was greater than it should have been. 34 students lost their lives during the war. 10 lecturers from the school were sent to concentration camps. From 1945, Kongsgård became the school. The main building is from the Middle Ages and includes the bishops chapel and knights hall.

    Byparken

    Until the 1960s, this was part of the Kongsgård property. The part closest to the cathedral used to be a cemetery. It’s believed there was a lavish garden and ponds as far back as 1299.

    Stavanger Cathedral

    Most importantly, we are at the town’s most famous landmark: the Stavanger Cathedral. This is the oldest cathedral in Norway; older than Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. I know we’ve had a lot of history so far on this walk, but it’s all coming together!

    Web link

    Stavanger was founded as a city in 1125, around the same time the Cathedral was built. The royals in Norway needed to have some control over the pagans in the south. They introduced Christianity with force and built the Cathedral. Yet, it’s a bit of a chicken and egg situation. What came first – the town or the cathedral? I can’t imagine them building a cathedral in the middle of nowhere, but the town likely didn’t exist until the cathedral was built. Anyway.

    Subsequently, a fire in 1272 destroyed the cathedral. Above all, it was rebuilt between 1276 and 1303, this time in stone, and it took on the Gothic feel we see today. 

    The Ruins of St. Mary's Church

    Yes, there’s no church here today. Most importantly, St. Mary’s Church stood here from the 12th century until the 19th century, when it was torn down. The church has a sad and complicated history. 

    It is uncertain why St. Mary’s Church stood so close to Stavanger Cathedral. One theory is that is a replacement cathedral from the great fire of 1272. Above all, it took a long time to rebuild the cathedral, so it was necessary to have a temporary house of worship. Another theory is that it was a separate independent church. The church may be from the 12th century. Around that time churches called St. Mary’s went up in Nidaros, Bergen, Oslo and Tønsberg.

    However, the church fell into disrepair after the Reformation in 1537. It became a hangout for the towns drunkards. In 1565, the town’s bourgeoisie took over the church and converted into a town hall and parliament. The city’s gallows stood outside. A prison was built in the church and developed a bad reputation for great suffering. 

    Moreover, in 1865, the church became a fire station. Less than 20 years later, the fire brigade and prison moved out. A city engineer proposed that the building is antique and thus should be torn down. The city demolished the church in 1883.

    Donkirkeplassen

    Certainly, this is the name of the square next to the ruins of St. Mary’s Church. This is the site of the old Bishops Estate. It was the residence of the bishops of Stavanger and bordered the old St. Mary’s Church. For instance, the name of our next point of interest, Laugmannsgata, comes from two lawyers who lived in Bispegården. The building was demolished in 1957. The Norges Bank building is where the NOKAS robbery took place.

    Donkirkeplassen

    This is one of the city’s oldest streets, linking Domkirkeplassen to Arneageren. The name comes from two lawyers who lived at Bispegården in the 18th century. 

    Arneageren

    Arneageren is a public square. It is home to the culture house, which was built in 1987. The culture house has various galleries, cafes, kiosks, a cinema and an art school for kids.

    The Film Theatre building is next to the culture house and a little older. Dating back to 1924, the building is neoclassical. It is regarded as one of the most important representatives of this style in Rogaland county. The Film Theatre was rebuilt in connection with the culture house in 1988. The square is well-known in Stavanger. Throughout the week, political and religious organisations distribute brochures. There is regular music from groups and street musicians.

    Søregata

    Søregata runs along the border of the old Arnegård farm. While the street itself is old, the exact age is unknown. In the 19th century, this street was known for its eateries and bars. Many workers and sailors lived along this street and there was a liquor distillery at the end. The cafes would display the dish of the day in the window. It’s not like the Asian restaurants (if you’ve been to countries like Japan) that have plastic displays. No, these cafes used real food. By the end of the day, the food had attracted many flies. 

    Mauritzengården

    Mauritzengården is a house from 1905. It was commissioned by soap factory owner Svan Mauritzen.  The building is considered one of the city’s finest Art Nouveau brick buildings. It is built in red brick with a corner tower and a spire. 

    Kirkegata

    Kirkegata is the first ever pedestrian street in Norway – announced in 1960. The name means ‘Church Street’, so the street leads to Stavanger Cathedral. If you turn left you’ll be at Stavanger Cathedral in two blocks. 

    It’s believed that Kirkegata was a street from before the year 1100. It’s had different names throughout history, including Urgata and Holmengata. Urgata refers to a natural clock. One theory is that building materials for Stavanger Cathedral were stored here, and that a wrecked stone was tipped down and turned into a clock. Holmen refers to the flat edge near the water – today it’s the name fo the northern part of Stavanger inner city. After the fire of 1860, the street got the name Kirkegata.

    Steinkargata

    This is an old street that linked the two main streets Østervåg with Kirkegata. It previously had the name “The Street to Østervåg”, indicating its purpose. Today’s name refers to a stone vessel used to moor boats. A wharf called “Laksebrygga” (Salmon Wharf) used to be here. Until the 1850s, fishermen docked here. The 1860 fire destroyed both sides of the street, so everything was rebuilt after that. 

    Sølvberggata

    Sølvberggata is from around the 17th century. The name comes from a large rock that used to stand where Arneageren is today; it was blasted away just after World War II. Sølvberg means ‘Silver mountain’ and refers to a large rock that used to stand where Arneageren is today. 

    Østervåg

    We’ve made it to Østervåg! This is the city’s main street. The name roughly means ‘East Bay’ and refers to the stretch of sea nearby. Østervåg was the natural harbour for scheduled shipping traffic and the fishing fleet. The bay area used to have shipyards. 

    Østervåg is one of the most important streets from the Middle Ages. The property Arnegård was here, and Østevåg ran through it. The street linked the bishop’s pier (Bispebrygga) to the Stavanger Cathedral. Østervåg is first mentioned in 1297 in relation to this pier. It’s believed that this was the medieval town centre. 

    The area we are on is very narrow, but it gradually becomes wider. This marks where the 1860 fire spread. The narrower part of the street was untouched, whereas the wider part of the street had burned down and was regulated and levelled after the fire. The fire started at the corner of Østervåg and Breigata. 

    Geoparken

    Geoparken (built 2008) is a playground built with items used in the oil industry. The layout is designed to replicate the formation of the Troll Field in the North Sea. 

    Norwegian Oil Museum

    The Norwegian Oil Museum is an excellent place to learn about the Norwegian oil industry. The museum covers the entirety of Norway’s oil journey. It stars from early exploration to discovery, foreign help and current environmental concerns. The museum has a lot of information boards, photographs, footage, and objects used to help develop the oil platforms. Main Article: The Oil Museum

    The Colour Street

    Welcome to Norway’s most colourful street!

    The concept of having a colourful street starts in 2005. Hairdresser Tom Kjørsvik wanted to create a vibrant atmosphere to draw more visitors to the area. Scottish artist Craig Flannagan designed the colours to have a Miami Vice theme. It’s not only the colours that make the street work. The houses have deliberate colour combinations. Each house as a series of colours for its facade, doors and window frames. Each colour scheme harmonises the house.

    View their Facebook page for current events

    Valberget

    Valberget Viewpoint is the site of the city’s old fortress. The date of the fortress is unknown. The land was likely given to Stavanger during the Nordic Seven Years’ War in 1567. The city likely needed defence for the sea after the Swedes were trying to take Bergen from the sea in 1564.

    Above all, fires have destroyed the fortress many times. There’s not much of the original fortress remaining. Its current appearance is from the 19th century. They had 12 12-pound cannons circling the tower. In 1840, they discarded the cannons when four men went on trial for refusing to shoot with them. They were acquired because the cannons were proven to be life threatening. Today the cannons are decorations on the viewpoint.

    The tower is not original – it was built in 1850 and is a lookout tower. 

    Skagen

    Skagen is a street that runs parallel along the bay, Vågen, linking Torget to Holmen. It is one of the city’s liveliest streets with many shops and nightclubs. But it is also home to some of Stavanger’s oldest buildings. 

    That is to say, the name Skagen is common all throughout Scandinavia and refers to a headland. It’s believed the street was here in the Middle Ages and is largely unchanged from the 13th century. Archaeological finds show that there were buildings here in the Middle Ages. 

    We are in the upper part of Skagen, making our way down to the lower and older part.

    The Clarion Hotel is where a cannery used to be. The cannery ran for three generations before being demolished in 1964 and replaced with the hotel. For example, Chr. Bjelland & Co, is one of Stavanger’s most famous canneries (see the history section). 

    Certainly, as we walk along Skagen, you’ll notice many references to shipbuilding, merchants, and steamships (dampskip). It indicates what exactly this street was used for. 

    Skagen 18

    Most importantly, Skagen 18 is one of the city’s oldest and most famous buildings. It is from after the 1684 fire, though a building stood here before then. The oldest known inhabitants are Sidsel Olsdatter Cruys and Albert Albertsen Libert. They aren’t famous Norwegians; just residents who have been remembered in history thanks to their house being the longest lasting. They lived here between 1687 and 1700. Moreover, inside the building are rosemaling decorations from before 1710. Merchant and shipowner Ole Smith Plow is the next owner; establishing his business in 1768. In 1787, the building got its Rococo facade.

    Today it is a bakery.

    M/S Rogaland

    Rogaland was built by the local shipyard in 1929. She sailed in the Coastal Express Service between Oslo and Stavanger during the day. At night, she did the Night Service between Stavanger and Bergen.

    In Bergen in April 1944, during the occupation, there was a large explosion on the harbour. That explosion killed one crew member of the Rogaland, injured five and seriously damaged the ship. The ship sank to the bottom of the bay. Declared a write-off, compensation went to the owner and the Stavangerske Company bought the wreckage. It was sealed in a shipyard in Bergen and then towed to a shipyard in Stavanger for repairs. Repairs finished in 1947. The ship resumed regular service at a limited passenger capacity. 

    After sending service in 1965, a group of enthusiasts purchased the ship in the 1980s. After lots of restoration, it is operational and can carry up to 100 passengers. The ship features in the 2016 film Dunkirk as a painted white hospital ship. The ship may or may not be in the harbour. If you walk onto the other side of the bay, you’ll see an information board for the ship. 

    Torget

    We’ve made it back to Torget and are now at the end of our walk.

    I hope you enjoyed this Stavanger self-guided walking tour.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Hardangerfjord, Odda, Stave Churches

    Røldal Stave Church

    Røldal Stave Church

    Røldal Stave Church is a special church. With its position on the edge of three counties and the road between east and west, Røldal has welcomed travellers for thousands of years. The stave church became an important pilgrimage site (the second-most important after Nidaros Cathedral) for these travellers. After all, the crucifix that has hung in the church for 1000 years was known to have healing powers.

    I got to visit the Røldal Stave Church in September 2020. While the inside was closed, the outside is as beautiful. While churches in Norway can blend into one another, each one stands out for its story. I’ve put together an overview of the history of this church so you can see why it’s so special to visit.

    In this article...

    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Røldal Stave Church

    The Røldal Stave Church dates back to around 1250 and the architect is unknown. Like many stave churches, Røldal Stave Church has changed in appearance since its construction. Originally, the church was a singular room, but it has since received a bell tower and choir out the back.

    The church before the last renovations between 1915 and 1918 (Source)

    The first major renovation took place after the Reformation in the 16th century. Inside the church, Lutheran decorations replaced Catholic ones. Further renovations took place in 1884 when the stone floor was removed and sold at an auction. The last renovations were in 1915-1918, giving the church its current appearance. Removing the 19th-century panelling revealed the Renaissance interior. A new gallery protects the walls and a new foundation wall is under the church. It’s likely the old cultural layers of the church are still under the main room (ship).

    The Crucifix (Source: VisitNorway)

    The Crucifix

    As mentioned above, Røldal Stave Church is famous for its crucifix. This crucifix isn’t any crucifix; it has healing powers.

    Legend has it that a blind man found the crucifix while fishing. He caught something heavy, and when he raised it a Christ picture appeared in the sea. They tried to lift it into the boat, but it was too heavy. The man struggled for so long that swear pored from his brow into his eyes. He had to let go and wipe his eyes – he then suddenly had his sight restored! He understood a miracle happened to him and resumed struggling to get the Christ, vowing to donate it to a church. Only when he mentioned Røldal Church did the crucifix lighten and he was able to lift it. He rowed to shore and gifted it to the church.

    It’s said that every Midsummer Eve the church sweat, and this sweat could heal the ill. When Lutheran became the main religion, attempts to stop this ‘cult worship’ became common. Worshipping icons in the Lutheran religion is idolatry and forbidden by the church.

    Even so, mass took place every Midsummer Eve. This lasted until 1835, when the Provost Ole Nicolai Løberg visited Røldal, saw what was happening, and forbid it. Still, pilgrims continued to visit the crucifix until 1850, when the practice ended.

    Today, the crucifix is the only surviving cult object in Norway’s pilgrim churches.

    The church is a votive church, meaning that it received large donations from the pilgrims. The small village became very prosperous and grew quickly.

    The altar and baptismal font (Source: Wikipedia)

    Interior Decoration

    Sadly, most of the interior decoration is now in the Bergen Museum. This includes wooden sculptures of St. Olav and Mary and Baby Jesus from around 1250, and the archangel Michael from around 1200. Yet, the crucifix is still located in the church.

    The church has staves, but they are only in the corners. Most stave churches have a raised central space, making the staves much more visible. The baptismal font is soapstone and dates back to around the time the church was built, as is the crucifix. The altarpiece is from Lutheran times, around 1629.

    Legend has it there was a cod backbone on the wall for some time. The story goes that two men were fishing in the Røldal Lake, which is freshwater and has no cod. One of the men, who were not from the village, said: “Røldal Church is no more a healing church than there is no cod in Røldal Lake!” Soon after, his fishing line began pulling, and he pulled up a cod! The backbone hung in the church for some time. I love a good legend, whether there is much truth to it.

    Is it a stave church?

    During the renovations in 1844, questions arose about the construction of the church. The building method differs from other stave churches. An investigation into the construction method took place. The resulting opinion is that the church may not be a stave church. Some believe that the church is a post church; the predecessor of the stave church. When categorising the church, it is like the Møre-type stave churches.

    Detailing around the main door

    Architecture

    The church is a rectangular-shaped nave and chancel with a saddle over the roof. There are similarities to Finnesloftet in Voss, one of the oldest buildings in Norway. Unlike stave churches, Røldal Stave Church does not have a decorated panel. Furthermore – it is one of few stave churches to rest on a stone foundation.

    Memorial outside the church

    Outside the church is a memorial stone commemorating the people from Røldal who helped in the fight for freedom independence from Sweden in 1905.

    Visiting the church

    Røldal Stave Church is located 44 mins (42km / 26 miles) from Odda and 5 mins (4.1km / 2.6 miles) from the Ryfylke Scenic Road/Horda.

    It is possible to take a public bus from Odda. From the stop Røldalsvegen ved gågata in Odda downtown take the number 930 bus towards Odda-Seljestad vekt for 16 stops / 36 minutes until you reach Seljestad vektstasjon. From there, take the bus number NW180 towards Oslo Bus Terminal for three stops (20 mins) until you reach Bruleitet. It’s then a 6 minute walk to the church. It’s worth noting that the second bus is a regional bus and therefore does not run regularly, so you really have to plan your time.

    Most people drive to Røldal Stave Church.

    The church is open during the summer months for a small fee. Click here to view current opening information.

    Parking is free and in front of the church. There are toilets on the property, but they are only open during the summer

    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Odda

    Why Låtefossen is One of Norway’s Best Waterfalls

    Why Låtefossen is One of Norway’s Best Waterfalls

    Norway has a lot of waterfalls.

    If you’ve been to Norway, or are planning your trip, you’ll know there are waterfalls everywhere. Some waterfalls are ‘famous’, with signage, parking and maybe even a souvenir shop. They are famous for a reason: not only are they huge, wild, unique, or gorgeous. They were some of the first tourist attractions in Norway.

    And Låtefossen is one of them.


    The Odda Valley has the nickname “the valley of waterfalls”. The area was utilised in the 20th century to develop heavy industry around the waterfalls. Today, though, many of the factories are gone. The Odda Valley is a very scenic drive. Not all the waterfalls are accessible from the highway, but luckily Låtefossen is.

    Låtefossen is located just a short drive outside Odda in Western Norway. It is famous for its photogenic and historic stone vault bridge crossing the waterfall at its strongest point.

    What I think makes Låtefossen one of the best waterfalls in Norway is a blend of its history and its natural beauty. This waterfall isn’t just a stream of water shooting off a mountain; it’s got a story. When I know the story of a place, I find that I always appreciate it more.

    Below you’ll find my overview of Låtefossen, including its past and present-day.

    In this article...

    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Brief history of Låtefossen

    Tourism to the waterfall

    Odda grew as a cruise destination in the 19th century (you can read about this in my article about the history of Odda), and Låtefossen was a prized attraction. When cruise ships docked in Odda, farmers with horse carriages would collect tourists. They would make the journey up to Låtefossen, and a small hotel there sold coffee. Only the ruins of the hotel remain today.

    English and German visitors were in awe of the waterfall. Here’s a snippet of what they said:

    It is only when you stand on a small hill, where the restaurant is built, that you get the right view of this sea of ​​foam, steam and spray, for the amount of water you do not see anymore. White water-veils wave over the waterfall and twinkles and lightning in all the colours of the rainbow in the sunshine. But this is not all: Directly opposite these two-dimensional, gigantic, ancient waterfalls, an equally beautiful, white, blurry, undulating mass, Espelandsfossen, plunges over a vertical rock wall. When you stand on a beautiful green spot in one of the most picturesque valleys in the world, and look at Låtefossen, Skarsfossen and Espelandsfossen that greet each other, then this is a picture that is too big to say, and which there is hardly any like in all of Europe.

    https://www.nb.no/items/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2014021906378

    Tourism to the waterfall

    In the early years of tourism, there was no bridge. The construction of the road between east and west Norway promoted the need for a bridge. Construction of the bridge ended in 1859. Yet it wasn’t long before the bridge became narrow for the large increase in traffic.

    During the mid-1940s, the bridge was expanded by 2m – it is now 6m wide. The part that is in all the photographs today is from the newer extension; we don’t see the old bridge.

    With an increase in cars, expansion of the bridge finished in the 1960s. The bridge you see in the photos is this new bridge.

    Waterfall Facts

    Låtefossen is among 93 watercourses that are permanently protected under a conservation plan in Norway. Of the famous waterfalls in the Hardanger region, it is the only one that is not regulated for hydropower.

    The source of the water is Lotevatnet Lake, which is 340m high up on the mountain. The lake flows down in two separate streams. They join together and flow under the bridge into the river Grønsdalslona. The height of the waterfall is 165m (541ft), though this is debated as topographic data shows this to be incorrect. [mfn]https://snl.no/L%C3%A5tefoss[/mfn]

    The strength of the waterfall depends on the seasons. It is the strongest in spring when the snow is melting. Moreover, heavy rainfall also results in a strong waterfall. My photos are from September 2020, when we’d had about two weeks straight of rain.

    There are possibilities to walk around the area and get a better photo. For example, the ruins of the old hotel provide a more unique overlook. However, the vast majority of people stay in the car park – I explain this more below.

    Memorial statue

    Statue in the carpark

    There’s a German statue in the car park, not too far from where I was standing to take all the photos in this article. The statue is a memorial for Gustav von Hahnke, a German military officer, and it was erected by Kaiser Wilhelm II. It reads:

    For Lieutenant Gustav von Hahnke. onboard the Hohenzollern 11.07.1897 who died in this spot.

    He had been on a bike trip on the mountain when he fell. It took some time before his body could be recovered. Gustav vacationed with Kaiser Wilhelm II every year in Odda over the summer holidays.

    My thoughts

    I’ve visited the waterfall twice – in April 2018 and September 2020. When I visited in April, it was completely frozen and the bridge was covered for renovations. As you can imagine, I was not so impressed.

    The second time I visited, in September 2020, the husband and I were doing our Ultimate Norwegian Roadtrip. I wanted to snap a quick picture before we made our way to Stavanger. I was very impressed with how strong the waterfall was. It’s cool to see it blowing over the road. And we had it almost to ourselves thanks to the pandemic that destroyed tourism in 2020.

    You don’t need to spend much time there; we were there around 10 minutes. Of course, it was pouring rain and we didn’t want to venture too far from the car. If it had been good weather, I would’ve sought out the path to the hotel and spent a little more time there.

    If you’re in the area, it’s well worth stopping at Låtefossen!

    Practical information

    Getting there

    It is possible to take a public bus from Odda. From the bus station, take bus 930 called Odda-Seljastad for 18 mins (12 stops) until you get to Skarsmoen. From there, it’s a 1.5km walk to the waterfall.

    Most people get to the waterfall by car; it is a 20 minute drive from Odda centre.

    Parking

    If you are driving away from Odda, the parking space is on your side of the road. The parking area is very small and there are no guidelines as to how to park your car. Basically, in summer it becomes something of a ‘free for all’ with caravans, buses and cars squeezing around each other to find a space to park. Even when I visited in September without tourism, I barely got a park due to so many caravans. Many of the TripAdvisor reviews mention how bad parking is. The best thing you can do is go early in the morning or late in the afternoon, or just cross your fingers that it’s not so busy.

    Viewpoint

    The viewing point is practically the same block as the parking area. There’s no special platform or path to take to get to the viewing point. You park and make your way to the end of the parking lot.

    You can’t walk onto the road that goes over the waterfall. It’s the main highway to/from Oslo, and there are trucks and cars speeding past.

    Facilities

    Across the road from the parking lot is a kiosk/souvenir shop that’s open in summer. I’m not sure why they put it on the other side of the road as it means you have people running across a main highway to get to either spot. The restrooms are also there – they are only open in summer

    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • History, Odda

    The History of Odda

    The History of Odda

    For me, Odda is a small, industrial town close to lots of beautiful places. But Odda itself is not exactly beautiful; the large factories overshadow the small town. The Netflix series Ragnarok used Odda as its setting to critique the heavy industry in the town. Odda is on the first day of my Ultimate Norwegian Roadtrip, so I took the time to read up on the town. And boy, the history of Odda is fascinating.

    I’ve put together a summary of my History of Odda notes for this article. I am a tour guide and not a historian, so this article is a collection of my notes. I have included a list of resources at the bottom of this article.

    Here’s the history of Odda.

    In this article...

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    The Early Years

    The name ‘Odda’ comes from an old farm that stood close to where the Odda Church is today. At the time, churches are on the largest farms; this is a sign of wealth. Until the 19th century, Odda was a small farming community. In 1801, there were 10 houses in Odda with a total population of 59.

    19th Century Tourism

    Odda’s growth begins with tourism. In Norway, tourism starts in the 19th century. Many fjord towns (for example Flåm and Geiranger) emerged as legitimate towns and not just isolated communities. The same thing happened with Odda; cruise ships began making the journey into the Sørfjorden and docking in Odda. Once on land, farmers with horses greeted the tourists and took them to see nearby attractions.

    Thanks to tourism, Odda grows rapidly. By 1900, the population had risen to 383. The Hotel Hardanger opens to accommodate the rise in tourists. Sadly, it burns down in a major fire in 1895; this is an event the Odda locals consider to be one of their most devastating. However, just 10 months later, a new Hotel Hardanger is standing.

    Tourists in Odda

    Who came to Odda? Many visitors were English, but there were also some celebrities. Most famous is the German Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm II. He vacationed in Norway all the time and visited Odda every year between 1891 and 1914. He gifted the town with its first hospital and many fire hydrants. Kaiser Wilhelm is famous throughout Norway because he is the one who helped to rebuild Ålesund after their devastating fire. Maybe he didn’t want the same thing to happen in Odda!

    The new Odda Church is from in 1870, one year after the historic church is torn down. The old church is from 1250, but it was too small for the growing community. The new Odda Church seats 500 people.

    Industrial Growth

    Shortly after the cruise ships began coming to Odda, industrialists began to visit. They saw the potential of building industry here. After all, Odda has many waterfalls and watercourses that can produce electricity. Waterfall buyers (yes, that is a thing) at the time were travelling Norway to buy waterfalls. Most buyers came from overseas, and 75% of developed waterfalls are by foreigners. It’s important to note that Norway at the time is a poor country with little skills. The foreign companies didn’t keep it to themselves; they taught Norwegians how to do it. The same goes for the oil industry in the 1960s. The ice-free harbour only furthers interest in building up Odda.

    Albert Petersson

    Professor Albert Petersson came to Norway from Sweden to find a place to build a factory that produced carbide and cyanamide. Honestly, explaining what those are is beyond me, so you can click them to read about them. Anyway, he found Odda and waterfalls. The factory is built in record time and creates hundreds of new jobs. It is the largest in the world at the time. In 10 years, the population rises from 383 to 3077.

    Most importantly, Odda Fabrikkane employs around 1000 people. The daily wage is 4-5 NOK for 10 hours of work, well above the standard salary for the time; a good suit costs 15 NOK. The company builds houses and apartments for its workers, some of which you can still see today.

    Meanwhile, neighbouring Tyssedal is undergoing the same rapid growth. A hydropower plant is built within two years and begins supplying electricity on 4 May 1908. Odda is one of the first towns in Norway to get electric power for lights and simple appliances in 1913.

    Decline of tourism

    Of course, the rapid increase in industry causes an effect on tourism. What was once an idyllic, natural and clean destination for travellers is now overcrowded and polluted. Hotel Hardanger turns black from the emissions, and the smog covers the fjord. The hotel tries to sue the factory for damages, but it is not paid out until 1922. The hotel is already bankrupt by then.

    Cruise ships continue to come to Odda until World War I, but they stay on the ship instead of the hotel.

    World War I

    More importantly, Odda grinds to a halt when World War I breaks out. While Norway remained neutral throughout the war, it had a huge impact on the industry in the country. 1000 men are fired in one day, and a couple of days later only 700 men are left in Odda. Also, Dr. Albert Petersson disappears; he is travelling to England on a ship when no one sees him fall overboard in the middle of the night.

    The road between Odda and Tyssedal begins construction in 1916; they use mostly factory workers that are laid off.

    It is not all bad for Odda, though. the Odda factories are producing calcium cyanamide, a chemical fertiliser. Until after World War I this was the chief alternative to nitrate fertiliser. It also serves as a raw material in chemical compositions, for example in the explosives.

    The 1920s

    Firstly, war and smoke have put a stop to tourism, and Odda has too many hotels. Most of them are empty all year round. As a result, Hotel Hardanger is sold to the municipality and converted into the town hall.

    Secondly, the chemical industry in Odda is based on war production. After the war, there is a great deal of overproduction and large stocks. Odda Fabrikkane goes bankrupt and shuts down in 1921. In Tyssedal, the Nitriden factory – one of the world’s largest producers of crude aluminium – goes bankrupt and closes a couple of weeks later. 1000 people are unemployed as a result of these two factories closing.

    Despite this, forced labour in the 1920s and 1930s leads to Odda getting 103km of new roads.

    In 1924, the factories merge under the name Odda Smelteverk. They have the purpose of running factories and selling chemical and metallurgical products. Many of the unemployed get their jobs back, but it doesn’t last too long.

    Five years later, the economic crisis of 1929 leads to record unemployment in Odda. In 1935, around 15% of all Norwegians depend on public poverty relief to make ends meet. In Odda, 900 people are unemployed. The huge unemployment makes the welfare expenses are too high and the municipality goes bankrupt in 1932.

    World War II

    The first indication of World War II coming to Odda was on 3 April 1940 (6 days before Germany invaded Norway). A German plane dropped a bomb on a pile of stones on the hillside, followed by more German planes dropping bombs to spread fear. One hits a house and crushes it, while another one hits a cafe.

    Germans don’t arrive in Odda until the 15th of May, over one month after the initial invasion. At the first meeting of NS (the Nazi Party of Norway) in Odda, few people attend while hundreds protest outside. There is an active resistance movement in Odda throughout the war. On 1 March 1943 nine locals are executed at an internment camp in Oslo.

    The Germans are drawn to Odda with its various factories, and they begin exploiting the aluminium factory as well as building their own. However, development is too slow and they abandon plans in 1943. They are building on agricultural land, and it is now destroyed.

    The 1950s

    Things are looking up for Odda in the 1950s. A new hospital, city hall and school are finished using taxes from the factories.

    Moreover, in 1961, the road between Odda and Tyssedal is (finally) finished. In 1968 the European Highway 134 finally opens too – it is the oldest open winter road connection between east and west Norway.

    The 1970s

    In 1970, the population of Odda is 10,000. To make way for modern housing, historical buildings are torn down. This includes the historic Hotel Hardanger.

    Fixing Pollution

    In the 1970s, more attention and care is being given to how much these factories are polluting. And boy, is Odda polluting.

    It starts with the Norwegian state introducing a law that Norwegian companies must report their marine discharges. One factory in Odda alone dumps 600 tonnes of waste material per day into the fjord.

    The Sørfjord is declared one of the most metal-polluted water areas in the world, and it is spreading into the Hardangerfjord.

    The zinc factory begins the first purification measure. It builds a purification factory for mercury. Their method eventually becomes an important example of environmental technological innovation that reduces global pollution of mercury. Another plant builds mountain halls to store waste. By the end of the 1980s, emissions in the fjord are reduced by 99%.

    Ways to reduce pollution are still ongoing in Odda, with new methods of recycling and reduction constantly developed.

    Preserving the history of Odda

    By the 1990s, the situation for Odda Smelteverk is not looking good. The factory goes bankrupt in 2002.

    In the 1990s, the end of a factory in Odda does not mean huge unemployment. New industries are growing in Odda, and the dependence on factories is declining. Meanwhile, the history of Odda and its industry is important, so several books are written. A movement begins in Odda to get on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Most importantly, the council is for it but the locals oppose it. Odda Smelteverk is protected in 2011 as a national heritage site.

    The Folgefonn Tunnel opened in 2002, allowing people to drive 11km under the glacier. This reduces travel time to Bergen dramatically.

    In 2020, Odda merges with the neighbouring districts of Ullensvang and Jondal to become a new municipality called Ullensvang. Finally, in 2024, work is going to begin on a new and safer winter road between east and west Norway.

    Odda Today

    The history of Odda ends with it almost coming full circle. Today many people in Odda still rely on the factories for a living, but many people are now working in new fields, particularly medical and social services. However, tourism is rapidly growing in the region, thanks to the natural beauty that attracted tourists 170 years ago. The Odda Smelteverk is now a museum you can visit. Next time I get to Odda I’ll be sure to cover this fascinating part of the town.

    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Odda

    Interesting Facts about Odda

    Odda is a small town located in the Ullensvang municipality in the county of Vestlandet in Western Norway. The town is famous for its proximity to nature, namely the Trolltunga hike and the Folgefonna National Park. However, it’s worth spending some time in Odda itself. The town is historic for its rapid and important industrial growth that took place at the start of the 20th century, so much so that it became UNESCO World Heritage-listed in 2009. Here are some interesting facts about Odda to highlight what makes this town special and unique.

    Odda Travel Guide

    2019 Statistics

    Published on 1 January 2020 on ssb.no. This is for the municipality of Ullensvang, of which Odda is part of.

    Visit the ssb.no website here. I’ll try to update this every year; if my statistics are out of date, notify me in the comments.

    • Population 11,048
    • 19 babies were born in 2019, while 29 people died
    • The population is currently declining; in 2030, it’s expected that 10,360 people will live in the municipality
    • The main industry is ‘sekundærnæring’, which refers to goods that are produced by processing raw materials from agriculture and forestry. This includes mining, general goods, water and power plants, oil refining and construction. The raw materials are extracted and then produced and processed by factories.
    • The second largest industry is hospitality services (e.g. hotels, restaurants, shops and real estate), while the third-largest is health and social services
    • 92% of children attend kindergarten
    • 49.6% of students use public transport to get to school
    • 3,762 detached houses; 807 apartments. 79% own their property
    • 33.3% live on agricultural property
    • 2.11 residents per household on average
    • 6,630 books were borrowed from the library; 16.1 visits per cinema performance
    • There are 10 voluntary teams and associations
    • 80.6% are members of the Church of Norway; 4.9% are members of other faiths
    • Population density of 4 inhabitants per km2. 64% live in urban areas
    • The municipality is operating at a loss of 4.4%

    History

    Odda grew up around the smelter in the early 20th century.

    The name ‘Odda’ comes from an old farm that used to stand in the area. Additionally, the church was on the site.

    Odda has been populated for centuries, but it wasn’t until the mid-19th century that the population really began to grow. First this was from tourism, but later it was from industry.

    Hotel Hardanger (Source)

    One of the most important historical buildings in Odda was the Hardanger Hotel, which was torn down in the 1970s.

    Kaiser Wilhelm II visited Odda every year between 1891 and 1914. He gifted the town with its first hospital and many fire hydrants.

    The Odda Smelteverk, which closed down in 2003, has been on the UNESCO List of World Heritage Sites since 2009. It shares this title with important industrial sites throughout southwestern Norway. The statement says:

    “What makes Odda smelteverk so important and central to the application of Norway’s hydro power sites and pioneer chemical industry as a World Heritage Site is the fact that here in an internationally unique way the physical remains of an early chemical production process are still present.”

    Arms of Ullensvang
    Ullensvang Municipality coat-of-arms

    The municipality is named after the old Ullensvang farm, since the first church was built there. The Old Norse word is Ullinsvangr – the first part references the Norse god Ullin, while the last part vangr means field or meadow. The coat of arms comes from a nobleman, Sigurd Brynulvsson Galte, and it can be seen on his grave dating back to 1302. It is the oldest gravestone in the village and the arms are well known. In 2020, the colour scheme was changed from red/yellow to blue/white after Odda municipality merged with Ullensvang municipality. [mfn]https://www.heraldry-wiki.com/heraldrywiki/index.php?title=Ullensvang[/mfn]

    Geography

    Odda is located on the southern tip of Sørfjorden (Southern Fjord), which is a branch of the Hardangerfjord (the second-longest fjord in Norway). Sørfjorden is surrounded by very steep mountains and renowned for its beauty.

    The Sørfjorden is 38km (24 mi) long and is the longest arm that branches off the Hardangerfjord.

    All the villages along the Sørfjorden are filled with fruit farms and orchards, growing fruits like apples and cherries.

    The Buarbreen Glacier in the background. Taken in April 2019.

    In the western part of Odda is the Folgefonna Glacier, including the Buarbreen Glacier close to the town centre.

    Odda. Taken in September 2020

    Industry

    Odda is the commercial and economic centre of the entire Hardanger region.

    Odda Hospital is the main hospital for the inhabitants of Hardanger.

    The municipality, Ullensvang Municipality, is Norway’s largest supplier of fruit, especially cherries and apples.

    Odda town centre. Taken September 2020

    Culture & Everyday Life

    The locals in Odda have a unique dialect. When migrants came from across the country to work at the smelter, they brought their unique dialects. Moreover, they developed a new dialect in Odda that’s a mixture of what’s spoken in their home regions. Most importantly, this is a phenomenon termed by linguists as a ‘Koine Language’.

    Odda has its own song, called the Oddasangen. The melody was written by Andreas L. Eide and the text was written by Haakon Scheide Lutken. The song was first published on 17 May 1914.

    Listen to it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATYC0Z_j11U

    Every summer in nearby Lofthus is the Norwegian Championship of Cherry Stone Spitting. The current record is 14.24m (46.7ft).

    Famous People from Odda

    Knut Knutsen (1832-1915)

    Knut Knutsen is one of Norway’s first professional photographers. His work includes images from most of Norway and documents Norwegian history and ethnology. He left a collection of 13,500 wet and dry plate negatives, and about 20,000 albumin silver prints. The negative and print collection are at the Picture Collection, University of Bergen Library.[mfn]https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knud_Knudsen_(photographer)[/mfn]

    Anne Birkefeldt Ragde (1957-)

    Anne Birkefeldt Ragde is a Norwegian novelist known for her children and young adult books. Her most famous novel is a biography about Sigrid Undset, for which she was awarded the Brage Prize.

    Svein Olav Herstad (1969-)

    Svein Olav Herstad is a jazz pianist known from his own bands and several recordings with musicians.

    Leif Einar Lothe (1969-)

    Leif Einar Lothe is a Norwegian television personality known as ‘Lothepus’ – he is a starring character in the documentary series Fjorden Cowboys. He also releases music, which you can listen to below.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHfs_CrhSq4

    Håkon Opdal (1982-)

    Håkon Opdal is a Norwegian professional football player who plays for Bergen Brann as a goalkeeper.

    More Interesting Facts about Odda

    I hope you enjoyed these facts about Odda! If you have any that you think I should add, please mention your facts about Odda in the comments.

    Odda Travel Guide