self-guided walk

  • Oslo, Walking Guides

    Castle, Fortress, Palace, Prison: A Self-Guided Walk Around Akershus Fortress

    Castle, Fortress, Palace, Prison: A Self-Guided Walk Around Akershus Fortress

    Dominating the Oslofjord skyline, Akershus Fortress is a mixture of medieval castle, military fortress, Renaissance palace, and prison. The fortress, as you can see, has had many different purposes over the years. Today it is still an active military base but is commonly used as a park and museum site. 

    The castle was completed some time around 1300 by King Haakon V of Norway, who moved the capital from Bergen to Oslo and built himself a castle. He used the castle as a residential palace and it was significant in establishing Oslo as the capital.

    After Norway became part of Denmark, the castle became more of a military fortification. 

    Following the Great Fire of 1624, King Christian IV made the decision to move the entire city. He ordered the city be moved closer to Akershus Fortress, and the fortress was remodelled to look like a Renaissance Castle.

    Akershus has successfully survived all sieges, mostly done by the Swedes. 

    For a few hundred years, Akershus was also the site of the prison that became known as The Slavery as you could rent out prisoners for the day.

    This walk will take you through the history of Akershus Fortress and show you all the different purposes the fortress has had. 

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    The online guide is a summarised version of the downloadable guide. Some points of interest are only included in the downloadable guide. 

    The walk: Akershus Fortress

    Information Centre

    This walk begins at the visitor centre, which is located just within the fortress walls. The building is from 1774 and was the old artillery building.

    Inside you can buy books, get a map, and purchase tickets for the museums. 

    The Carp Pond

    Located across from the Visitor Centre

    This small pond that we have today is from a much larger pond that used to be here. The stream came from Christiania Square and ran through this pond and down to Munk’s pond. It was divided into two when the foundations of the northern curtain wall were laid out in 1592. The other part served as a moat outside the wall.

    The fortress guide says that carp are kept there in the summer, but when I visited in November 2020 the pond looked completely filled in, and a stage was built in front. 

    Akershus National Penitentiary, or "The Slavery"

    Multiple buildings in this courtyard are from the prison. 

    When Oslo (then called Christiania) got renewed status as the capital in 1814, the fortress function changed. The outer parts were released as building plots for the public. The ramparts became a place for recreation.

    The prison has been here since the 17th century, when King Frederik III said that all convicted of “petty larceny” should work on a chain group in Akershus, and eventually the prison got the nickname ‘The Slavery’ as prisoners could be rented out for the day. They were set to all kinds of public works and some were even hired out to private parties.

    In 1842 there were as many as 530 prisoners here, all male. Amongst the inmates were the famous individuals such as Gjest Baardsen and Ole Hoiland. The world ‘slavery’ was abolished in 1850. 

    The Institution was converted into a National Penitentiary in 1902 and from 1937 it was a detention facility. During World War II, it was a German military prison. Briefly after the war the building was a prison for traitors, and it finally closed in 1950. 

    Today the buildings are used as office buildings for the military and fortress staff. 

    In the second photo you can see the prison chapel (behind the yellow buildings). It was built in 1896 and had tuition rooms and a library inside for the prisoners. 

    Drawbridge & Moat, Cannons

    This bridge and gate is from 1653, though there has been an opening here since 1620. The drawbridge was rebuilt in the mid-19th century and a winch system was added (one of the winches is preserved in the northern part), but in 1920 the moat was filled in when the road below was completed. You can walk out onto the bridge today and pretend the road is the old moat!

    In this large courtyard you’ll see some cannons. These cannons were to keep the prisoners in line, and they were loaded with grapeshot.

    The Guardhouse

    The guardhouse is from 1724 and has the Norwegian coat-of-arms above the front door. The building was used as prison facilities. Today the building is used as a guardhouse and museum for His Majesty the King’s Guard.

    The Guardhouse has been used by the state in a modern context since 1947, when King Haakon VII used Akershus as a banquet hall in celebration of his birthday. 

    The Barracks

    This area was originally a herb garden – it is shown as such in the oldest image of Akershus Fortress from the 1580s. The area eventually got a bathhouse, rabbit cage, and enclosure for deer. The barracks were built in 1778 and weren’t barracks for the military long; in 1787 the first prisoners moved into the northern wing. 

    Prince Carl's Bastion

    We are moving back in time – here is Prince Carl’s Bastion, which was completed in the 17th century. There was a drawbridge and moat here; today it can only be seen from the outside of the fortress walls. 

    The Virgin's Tower

    The Virgin’s Tower is one of the few original elements left – it was constructed around 1300 and is one of the many strong towers that used to surround the fortress. The tower used to be deeper and higher, but has changed over the years. 

    Munk's Tower

    Munk’s Tower is from 1559. It is believed that the water tower used to be here, and it provided drinking water to those at the castle. 

    The name comes from Christian Munk, who had the tower built into its present form. Christian Munk was a Danish sheriff and governor who settled in Norway and saw major renovations of Norway’s fortifications. Throughout the 1560s he ruled over the regions Hamar and Akerhus while residing at Akershus. 

    For a while, in the 19th century, the royal regalia was kept in the tower’s top floor. 

    Castle Contrasts & the Southern Wing

    The Southern Wing (to the right of the image) is one of the oldest parts of the castle. It dates from 1300 and was the original main entrance of the castle, nicknamed ‘the dark passage’. In the passage are remains of four fortified gates. 

    The area was renovated in the 16th century when a chapel was built in the area, and an extra floor (see the large building to the left) was added to make room for the chancery of the Akershus governorship. 

    When Christian IV ruled over Denmark and Norway, the area was converted into opulent apartments for the royal couple. The top floor is now a large room called Christian IV’s hall, and it functions as the castle’s reception room. 

    The Chancery Wing

    Looking at the walls, you can see all the different periods of construction of the fortress. The bottom, grey part is the original castle and has been broken out of the bedrock. The big medieval bricks come next; they are known as the monks tiles. At the top, you see the parts from the 17th century that were added during Christian IV’s building operations. 

    The bit that sticks out was the lavatory facilities. 

    The Romerike Wing

    The Romerike Wing is the building sticking out to the left. The lower part of the building was the storeroom with two fortified gates for taking in supplies. It was rebuilt in 1633 as the royal kitchen, while the second floor was used as living quarters for the viceroy. Between 1841 and 1845 the poet Henrik Wergeland had an office on the ground floor. At the time he was working as the national archivist. 

    Knut's Tower

    You’ll now go through two stone archways. It’s a bit of an up-hill climb. 

    The tower you’ll pass as you go along the path is Knut’s Tower, one of the original parts of the medieval fortress. The tower used to be called the Canons Tower as it was constructed as a crossfire tower. For a long time, however, it was used to keep prisoners. 

    In 1641 the tower underwent changes as it was built into a horse-powered mill.

    The name is a reference to the knight Knut Alvssøn, who was said to have lain unburied in the tower for 12 years after being killed by Henrik Krummerdike in 1502.

    Execution Ground

    This ground is the site used for the execution of members of Norway’s resistance movement. On the 9th and 10th of February, and the 17th of March, 1945, Norwegians were executed here by the Nazis.

    A memorial was unveiled by Haakon VII on 8 May 1949. 

    Norwegian Resistance Museum

    The building was originally the Double Battery and is from the late 17th century. It has housed Norway’s Resistance Museum since 1967. The museum is a fantastic insight into what the war was like in Norway, and the collection was arranged by ex-military and members of the Norwegian resistance. 

    Skarpenord's Powder Magazine

    This huge building was built to be bomb-proof in the late 17th century. it has three ornamental sandstones from the viceroy Hannibal Sehested’s never completed fortress gave. The sandstone comes from a nearby quarry. 

    Visitor Centre

    You have arrived back at the visitor centre! I hope you enjoyed this walk around Akershus Fortress. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    My Akershus walk begins close to the end point for the Oslo City Centre self-guided walking tour, so you can consider doing that walk first. 

  • Bodø, Hurtigruten, Walking Guides

    From World War II to Street Art: Bodø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    From World War II to Street Art: Bodø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Located just above the Arctic circle, Bodø is a city of transformation. Built up in the late 19th century, this important fishing harbour was completely ravaged from bombing in the early days of the German occupation during World War II. Following the war, the city was rebuilt into a functionalist style. While not the most attractive architectural style by modern standards, Bodø is a fascinating city to walk around. The last ten years have brought huge growth and new modern structures to this mini metropolis, and Bodø has been named the European Capital of Culture for 2024. Explore the fascinating city of Bodø!

    In this article...

    Bodø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Link to a map you can load into your phone

    Bodø Self-Guided Walk

    Hurtigruten Terminal

    This tour begins at the Hurtigruten terminal, which is where many people arrive in the afternoon to explore Bodø for a few hours with the Hurtigruten.

    The Hurtigruten is a coastal ferry that goes from Bergen to Kirkenes and back again, stopping in 32 ports along the way.

    The next terminal you’ll pass is where the car ferries go to Røst to Værøy as well as Moskenes in Lofoten. The ferry to Moskenes takes around 2.5 hours.

    Bodø Station

    Bodø Station is the terminus of the Nordland Line that was completed in 1961. The station is served by day and night trains to Trondheim (728km away), plus commuter trains to Rognan and Fauske. The trip to Trondheim takes 9 hours and 50 minutes and it is not electrified.

    The decision to build the railway to Bodø was made in 1923, but it was not completed until the 1960s due to lack of funds and World War II. The railway is also used by freight traffic.

    Kirkens Bymisjon

    On your left is Kirkens Bymisjon (Church City Mission), an organisation that conducts social work in Norway on a Christian humanistic basis. They focus on substance abuse, mental health, child welfare, elderly care, prostitution measures and church activities. The building on the left is where you can get assistance from the church, plus they also sell items second hand to raise funds for their services. It’s a great place if you love vintage shopping, or just want some unique souvenirs from Norway.

    Orestad Park

    The park is named after Ivar Orestad, a violinist who lived here.

    In 2021, it was renamed to Sissel Bjugns Park. Sissel Bjugn (1947 – 2011) was a Norwegian poet and children’s writer who lived in Bodø for a large part of her adult life (she was originally born in Bardu)

    After School

    Bodø is famous for its street art. In 2015, the first UpNorth festival was held here, where international and national artists were given the freedom to paint on some of Bodø’s walls.

    This artwork is titled After School and is by the Russian artist Rustam QBic. His paintings are known for being saturated with bright colours and a playful sense of the absurd.

    We’ll see a couple works on this tour, but if you are interested in seeing more Bodø tourist board has made a map of all the big artworks. You can view it here

    Bodø Town Hall

    Bodø Town Hall is the main municipal building in Bodø with the municipality’s political and administrative headquarters. The building was built after the war, and it was designed by Gudolf Blakstad and Herman Munthe-Kaas, who gave it a functionalist style.

    A new extension has been built at the town hall. It is designed by the Danish studio ALL (Atelier Lorentzen Langkilde). The façade geometry is designed to capture the changing light conditions in the Arctic. The building links together the older buildings from the 1960s, which will still be in use.

    About the extension: https://www.archdaily.com/931586/bodo-town-hall-atelier-lorentzen-langkilde

    Rådhusparken

    A brand-new park has been constructed across from the town hall. There’s Rådhusparken, the one we see, and directly behind it is Solparken. These are lovely open spaces with fun games for kids and nice places to sit as well.

    In the park you’ll find a monolith with a sign next to it. The monolith is from the Iron Age and was originally located close to the airport. There were at least five monoliths and several burials on the site, but it was moved here in 1952 to be closer to the museum.

    Bodø Cathedral

    The original church was built in 1888. It was yellow, wooden, and neo-Gothic. The church was destroyed during the bombing on 27 May 1940. In 1946, an architectural competition was held for the design of the new church. The new church was finished in 1956.

    The stained-glass window is 40 feet high, and it has a beautiful 5,000 pipe German-style organ.

    The church is built of concrete and has a basilica design. There is an external sculpture depicting Petter Dass. The church seats 890 people.

    The church has a 36m (118ft) tall free-standing clock tower with three bells. There is a memorial to those who died in World War II.

    Outside the city is Bodin Church, a stone church built in 1240.

    Nordlandsmuseet

    Recounting the short history of Bodø, this gem of a museum has an entertaining and informative 25-minute film with English subtitles on the town’s development. Highlights include a mock-up of the fishermans rorbuer, a section on Sami culture complete with sod hut and ritual drum, regalia related to the towns fishing heritage and a small hoard of 9th century Viking treasure that was discovered in 1919.

    The building is from 1903 and housed the city’s fisheries museum.

    Information on the museum can be found here: https://nordlandsmuseet.no/en/citymuseum

    Svenskebyen

    Due to a lack of housing from the bombing of World War II, the Swedish government helped build 107 apartments in the winter of 1941. These houses were tightly built together just outside of town. The area today is called The Swedish Town.

    A Kiss Between Cultures

    The motif shows two children playing together. One child is of Sami origin and the other comes from the indigenous population in the Andes. The artwork represents two different indigenous groups. The latter is part of the artwork and symbolises a bridge between the cultures.

    Note – unfortunately from 2022 the artwork has been removed to make way for new building construction. 

    Bodø Library & Concert Hall

    These buildings are a welcome modern addition to the city’s post-war architecture. Plans for a library began in 2009, when an international competition was held to design the library. The plan was to build a new, modern cultural quarter in Bodø. The building is designed to be open towards the city and the harbour, and the white marble is to capture the changing light of the Arctic.

    The interior is bright and airy, and it’s great to sit in the reading room on the first floor and admire the views. The concert hall is not always open to the public, but it is like the library inside.

    Bodø Harbour

    At the ferry pier you can see some lovely old fishing boats, and here you get a true feel for Bodø’s past. This is where you can take tours by boat to Saltstraumen.

    Old Customs House

    The customs house is one of the few buildings to survive the war. It was built in 1912 and was designed with art nouveau influences by Søren Wiese-Opsahl.

    Clarion Hotel Grand Bodø

    This hotel has items and images inside from before World War II. The hotel is a preserved building in post-war architecture. The history of the hotel goes back to 1850, when a hotel was established on this site. The hotel became known for social groups and businesses. The well-known writer Knut Hamsun is among the hotel’s most famous guests; he wrote the book ‘Segelfoss by’ in one of its rooms.

    The Main Square

    This is the main shopping square of Bodø. Here’ll you’ll find some fun places to eat and some great shops as well. You can find restaurant and shopping suggestions on the Bodø travel guide page.

    Bodø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Oslo, Oslo & the East, Walking Guides

    Exploring Oslo’s Old City Christiania: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Self-Guided Walk: Christiania in Oslo

    Christiania was the name of Oslo between 1624 and 1925. The name came from King Christian IV, who made the big decision after a fire in 1622 to move the whole city from its original location to be close to the Akershus Fortress. He laid the city out in a grid pattern (the area is called Kvadraturen, which refers to the grid layout), and designated certain blocks for certain purposes. And so, Christiania was built.

    Many of the original buildings are now gone, but some still stand, albeit many are heavily renovated. Still, Christiania is a fascinating place to walk through and learn about how the old city of Oslo functioned.

    On this self-guided walk, I’ll show you the buildings still standing, the story behind them, and try to give you an idea of what Christiania used to be.

    A Brief History of Christiania

    Christiania was established as a replacement of the old city of Oslo in 1624, after a huge fire had swept through the original city. Oslo stood a few kilometres to the east, but King Christian IV wanted the city to be closer to the Akershus Fortress. The ruins of the old city still stand at the suburb called ‘Gamle Oslo’.

    The streets were built very wide, and the city was surrounded by ramparts to better protect itself. Additionally, all the houses were to be built in brick as a modern fire measure. However, most people were still too poor to build in brick, so wooden houses or half timber houses were constructed. The plots of land within Christiania were distributed to the citizens free of charge, but were allocated according to wealth and status.

    The walled city of Christiania didn’t last long: after a fire in the 1680s the ramparts were no longer used and the city began to see unregulated expansion outside the walls. The city’s population rose steeply after the union with Denmark ended, and more modern buildings were built in Christiania to show off the city as a capital, including the palace, parliament and university.

    By the early 20th century, the area of the original Christiania was a quiet business activity and no longer the centre of the city. In 1925, the city got its original name of Oslo back. Today, Christiania is distinctive on all maps of Oslo thanks to its grid pattern. It’s known as ‘Kvadraturen’ on maps, which refers to the grid pattern.

    Oslo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    The online guide is a summarised version of the downloadable guide. Some points of interest are only included in the downloadable guide. 

    Christiania Self-Guided Walk

    Christiania Torv

    This is the centre of the old town of Christiania. When Christiania was completed, the Holy Trinity Church stood on this site. It was the first public building to be completed in the old town, and by it would’ve been the market. The market was used on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and farmers would gather to sell their goods. The annual winter market in the first few days of February was also held here. Farmers came from all over Eastern Norway with butter, hides and venison. In the square was also the gauntlet and a ‘kag’ – a cane with a neck iron. Here the criminals were whipped and shamed.

    The Holy Trinity Church used to stand here. It was a Renaissance building with four clocks and a richly decorated interior. Sadly, the church wasn’t even completed before it was struck by lightning in 1686. The bells of the church melted, and the nave was ignited. The fire destroyed about a third of Christiania, the northernmost part – which was the poorest area and mostly wooden houses – being the worst affected.

    The church wasn’t destroyed during the fire, but it was decided to tear it down anyway because Akershus Fortress wanted an open field in the area and the church was blocking the firing range of the fortress. The Holy Trinity Church was demolished, and the site was left unused. What survived of the church was moved to the Oslo Cathedral when it was completed.

    Christian IV's Glove

    The statue in the middle of the square is called Christian IV’s glove and is by Wenche Gulbransen. It’s supposed to represent Christian’s decision to move the city here.

    Anatomigården

    This is one of the few remaining half-timbered houses in Christiania. The exact age of the property is unknown, but it is believed to be from the early 1700s. The name Anatomigården refers to the fact that the Faculty of Medicine had its anatomical hall here.

    Rådmannsgården

    This is one of the oldest buildings in Oslo and the best-preserved building in Christiania. It was likely built around 1626 in a Dutch/Danish Renaissance style. It used to be much larger but has undergone many changes over the years. The building was built for councillor (rådmann in Norwegian) Lauritz Hansen. Today there is a restaurant inside.

    Gamle Rådhus

    This is Christiania’s first town hall (Rådhus in Norwegian). The building dates to 1641, though it has undergone many changes over the years. For example, it used to have a tower, but it was torn down in the 1700s. The original Renaissance gables are also gone.

    In Christiania, the town hall functioned as both a meeting place for councillors but also a gathering place for the towns bourgeoise. Kristiania was ruled by two mayors and 12 councillors appointed by the sheriff of Akershus Fortress. In the cellars were a detention room and a prison for convicted criminals.

    The building was in bad condition throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, and over those years it was a Masonic Lodge. In 1983, it became a restaurant called “Det Gamle Raadhus”.

    Revierstredet

    The name comes from Revieret, a canal that was excavated in the area in the 17th century.

    The dark brown building that you’ll follow along Revierstredet and then later onto Kongens gate is the oldest building you’ll see on this street. It was built in 1638 for a town bailiff and eventually became an orphanage. While it was an orphanage, 50 kids would be here. The women had to do yarn spinning, while the boys did carpentry. On the side, you can see the initials MHS and UMB, who were for the original owner’s Mads Haraldssøn and Annichen Mecklenburg. Parts of the property are among the first to be built in Christiania when the city was founded. The stone tablets in the wing towards Nedre Slottsgate indicate the building is from 1638, and according to the city antiquary in Oslo, this is Oslo’s oldest known building. There are traces of an even older building on the plot. The date 1640 on it is likely from an extension.

    Bankplassen

    The square comes from Norges Bank, which was built here in 1828. It is now used by the Museum of Architecture. You pass it on your right as you head into Bankplassen.

    The square was renovated in 2016 for Norge Banks 200th anniversary. The square got new light poles using historic luminaires.

    The Christiania Theatre was located on Bankplassen from 1837 to 1899. Cafe Engelbret quickly became a permanent place for many artists. The theatre was torn down to make way for Norges Bank, whose new building opened in 1900.

    You can see Cafe Engelbret at the other end of the square.

     

    Cafe Engebret

    The restaurant is named after the founder Engebret Christoffersen, who started the restaurant in 1857. It moved here in 1863 and has undergone very few changes. The building is from 1760.

    The Engebret Movement, a network of female journalists in Oslo, took their name from the place. They existed for 10 years and the goal was to promote female journalists in the business. The network worked for gender equality through the Norwegian Journalists Association. They wanted equal pay and better working conditions.

    Café Engebret was popular for many artists because the old Christiania Theatre was located here from 1837 to 1899. Engebret became a permanent place for many artists. The theatre was torn down to make way for the second Norges bank building, which opened in 1900.

    Kongens gate

    This is one of the original streets of Christiania, laid out in 1624. If you turn right instead of left, you’ll see the road leads to the fortress. Most of the part we are walking through has been rebuilt over the years, with the buildings here from 1638.

    Kongens gate 6 is from 1915. It is considered Norway’s first modern business building.

    Tollbugata 19

    Head into Tollbugata to look at building number 19.

    This building is a small apartment building from 1687, though it has some parts on it that are older. The irons on the side of the building are beautifully decorated.

    Prinsens gate 18

    You’ve now made it to the north of Kvadraturen. On your right is a white building – this is Prinsens gate 18. It is the oldest house on Prinsens gate. It is from 1640 and was originally one floor but was later extended to two floors. Andreas Tofte, who was Oslo’s first mayor (1837-38), lived and ran a business here from 1824 to 1848.

    In 1989, the property was severely damaged after a pyromaniac lit the building. The owner chose to restore the building, but it was upgraded to today’s standards. During the work, ceiling decorations from the 17th century were uncovered and restored

    Prinsens gate

    Prinsens gate is a 600m long street that runs through Kvadraturen. The street is mostly modern office buildings. Most were replaced after a large fire in 1858 destroyed 40 buildings. The buildings were rebuilt with businesses in mind, mostly because by this point fewer people were living in Kvadraturen. Historically, there were several pubs here and the street was very well known for its social activities. Halvorsen’s patisserie on Wessels plass has been running in the same place since 1881.

    Kirkegata

    The street, which means “Church Street”, runs from Bankplassen to Stortorvet, where Oslo Cathedral is today. It was originally called Prindsens gang and got its current name when Oslo Cathedral was completed. Originally this was a street for the rich, but after the fire of 1858 many properties were rebuilt for businesses. In the 19th century, this was the city’s main thoroughfare.

    Rådhusgata 11 / Statholdergården

    You’ve now made it to the north of Kvadraturen. On your right is a white building – this is Prinsens gate 18. It is the oldest house on Prinsens gate. It is from 1640 and was originally one floor but was later extended to two floors. Andreas Tofte, who was Oslo’s first mayor (1837-38), lived and ran a business here from 1824 to 1848.

    In 1989, the property was severely damaged after a pyromaniac lit the building. The owner chose to restore the building, but it was upgraded to today’s standards. During the work, ceiling decorations from the 17th century were uncovered and restored.

    Rådhusgata 10, 12, 14

    This building was originally three small properties that were constructed at the end of the 1620s. They have all undergone changes through the years – they were last restored in 1980 and incorporated into Norges Bank.

    Grev Wedels Plass

    This is a lovely park that was laid out in 1869. The name comes from Herman Wedel-Jarlsberg (1779-1840), who was the president of the Storting (parliament), an ironworks owner, county governor, and finance minister.

    After Akershus was closed as an active fortress in 1818, the area was turned into a government quarter. The Parliament and the Supreme Court were initially going to stand here, but it was banned by military authorities in 1836. The Park opened instead in the 1860s and quickly developed a bad reputation for hosting illegal activities. In the 1930s, it was paved over and turned into a car park. During World War II, the square was used for barracks and shelters. In 1988, the park was reconstructed and reopened.

    The red building to your left is from 1840. The white building across the street and to the right is the Army Depot, a warehouse building designed in Empire Style from 1828. Further down is an orange building – this is Ridehuset. It was originally a stable but opened in 2007 as a concert venue. There’s an entrance to Akershus Fortress by Ridehuset.

    Gamle Logen

    The building on the opposite end is Gamle Logen. It was built in 1839 as a Masonic Lodge and banquet hall. Several events have been held in this building, such as a special dinner for Fridtjof Nansen and his crew after their first Fram trip. Until World War II, it was also a popular concert venue. Edvard Grieg (there’s a bust of him outside), Ole Bull, Johan Svensen and Halfdan Kierulf have performed here. After World War II, the building was used as the Court of Appeal, and this is where Vidkun Quisling was sentenced to death on the 10th of September 1945. It was also used as a canteen by Oslo’s dock workers. After extensive rehabilitation, it reopened in 1988 as a concert and cultural venue.

    Military Hospital

    Now you can see the Military Hospital. It is a beautiful wooden building from 1807 and was originally built as a hospital for soldiers. As Denmark-Norway was heading into the Napoleonic Wars, a new hospital was needed. After Norway became Swedish in 1814, it was a general hospital for the public, which it remained until 1883. It was then dismantled and taken to the Norwegian Folk Museum, where it sat in storage until 1983. Now it’s back at its original spot.

    Garmanngården

    At the corner of Rådhusgata and Dronningens gate is a beautiful red home. It is Garmanngarden, one of the city’s oldest standing buildings. Parts of the building are from 1622 (before Oslo burned in 1624), though most of the building is from 1625-1630. The anchors on the building have the date 1647, which is probably when the building got its current appearance. For its first 100 hours, the building was the residence of important men in Oslo, such as Land Commissioner Johan Garmann (where the property got its name from) and Governor Just Høeg.

    The building was given to the city by King Chrisitan VI as the new town hall in 1734. It was also used as a courtroom, a meeting room for the magistrate, a theatre, concert and party room. There was also a police station, detention facilities and a prison.

    Today the building is used by the Society for Oslo Byes Vel, which is a historical association that promotes the city’s history. All those blue signs on old buildings are managed by Oslo Byes Vel.

    The War School

    This building was established in 1804 to train officers for the Norwegian army. The students received a five-year education. Most of the cadets were listed, and the majority were the sons of officers. The school provided insight into military technology, general education, physical education, and military education. This is one of the world’s oldest military academies that has been in continuous education.

    Posthallen

    Across the street is ‘Posthallen’. It was built between 1914 and 1924 as Oslo’s main post office. Today the building is used as shops and apartments – the post office moved to a different building in 2004.

     

    Pascal Patisserie

    Diagonally across from the Military School is Pascal Patisserie, a very famous place for sweet treats. There has been a patisserie here since 1650. Sadly, the original building burned down and wasn’t rebuilt until 1870. The interior is left fully untouched from 1895.

    The current owner is the ninth owner of the patisserie. It is Pascal Dupuy, a French pastry chef who came to Norway in the 1980s and opened his patisserie in this building in 1995. Pascal Dupuy has gained international recognition for his products, and he is considered one of the world’s best confectioners. He even has a show on Norwegian television that follows him educating his staff and creating unique pieces for special events.

    There are multiple Pascal patisseries around Oslo, but this one is the one to visit. They serve French-inspired lunch dishes plus many good desserts. You can also admire the original interior, the glass roof, and a fresco painted by Åsmund Stray in 1895.

    Treschowgården

    This building was built for Gerhard Treschow, an immigrant from Denmark who became the customs officer in 1683. He ended up becoming one of the city’s largest factory owners with sawmills, brickworks, a paper mill, oil mill, and soap factory. He bought the property in 1710. For a while, it was the Cathedral School, and then it was a hotel. Today it is an office building for the Fred Olsen shipping company.

    Oslo Stock Exchange

    This building was built for Gerhard Treschow, an immigrant from Denmark who became the customs officer in 1683. He ended up becoming one of the city’s largest factory owners with sawmills, brickworks, a paper mill, oil mill, and soap factory. He bought the property in 1710. For a while, it was the Cathedral School, and then it was a hotel. Today it is an office building for the Fred Olsen shipping company.

    Customs Office

    This is the customs house. There have been five customs houses on this site – the first one was built by Gerhard Treschow in the 1680s, but it was replaced by the next customs officer, Frantz Jørgensen. He wanted his own customs house, so had it designed to his taste. The site used to be on the pier, but it was filled in 1957-1960.

    Frantz’s customs house was so rotten by 1770 that it was torn down and replaced. However, in 1785 a huge fire destroyed the pier area, customs house included. In 1790 mason and architect Hans Christian Lind built a new customs house, now number 4. It was torn down and replaced in 1895. That building is the one we see today.

    Customs Warehouse

    This is a customs warehouse from 1915. Behind is the Tollpakkhuset, a customs warehouse from 1915. It now houses the Norwegian Customs Museum. The museum has all the uniforms spanning 350 years, plus all the stuff people tried to smuggle into Norway – this alone makes for a very entertaining visit.

    Customs Office

    You’ve now reached the library/Oslo Opera House area, with the Central Station on your left. I hope you enjoyed this walk around Christiania!

    Enjoy More of Oslo

    Visit the travel guide page to see road-trips, restaurants, and top activities that you can do. 

    Oslo Travel Guide