numedal stave church

  • Numedal Valley, Oslo & the East, Stave Churches

    Uvdal Stave Church

    Uvdal Stave Church

    The Numedal Valley contains the best-preserved collection of medieval buildings in Norway. When driving from Kongsberg towards Geilo, you’re treated with gorgeous views, ancient farms, and many stave churches. Four, to be precise. The last one before Geilo is Uvdal Stave Church, and much like the others, it doesn’t disappoint.

    Compared to the other stave churches (Flesberg, Rollag and Nore), Uvdal is high on the hillside. Moreover, it is still surrounded by ancient farm buildings. This church was in use until the late 19th century when the town built a new church further down the valley. The new Uvdal Church looks exactly like a stave church, so don’t get the two mixed up!

    In this article...

    The Fv40 Highway

    You can reach Uvdal Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv40 Highway
    Geilo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Uvdal Stave Church

    Like the other churches in the valley, the exact date is unknown. However, it’s believed Uvdal is from around 1169 thanks to the dating of the timber used in the construction. Much like Nore, it is a single nave stave church with a central mast. The mast is to hold up the tower with the bell, and these two stave churches are unique in Norway. Also, like the other churches, there are remains of a previous church underneath.

    In 1978, archaeological excavations found a large number of objects. They found 552 coins: 44 are from 1177-1202 (the reign of King Sverre), 40 are from 1200 and 120 are from 1217-1263 (the reign of King Håkon). Textiles and other objects were also found. One of the most interesting discoveries is a pilgrims mark of St. Olav on a wall. It’s from the 13th century and is interesting as this is not a pilgrims church or on the way to Nidaros Cathedral, where Olav is buried.

    In written material, Uvdal is first mentioned in 1327.

    Expansion & Renovations

    The original stave churches were very small, and over the centuries they became impractical. Because of this, they have been constantly expanded, renovated, and redesigned. For Uvdal, it’s almost as if each century has added something to the church.

    The first extensive renovations came after the Reformation in 1537. Between 1651 and 1682 Knut Jørgensen Winter was a parish priest in the valley. He came from Denmark and had big plans for the Rollag, Nøre and Uvdal stave churches. In the 1650s the church got a flat ceiling, and in 1656 the interior was painted. Furthermore, in 1684, the church got an extended chancel. In the 1720s and 1730s, further extensions changed it into a cruciform church (cross-like floor plan).

    Exterior Decoration

    In 1760 the exterior got panels; before then, it was bare timber. The church has always been covered in tar, as are all stave churches.

    One of the most interesting aspects of the church is its western portal, or western entrance. It is richly carved from the late Middle Ages and includes a depiction of Gunnar. Gunnar is the lead character in the Volsungesaga, a pre-Christian saga based on ancient Germanic myths.

    Gunnar depicted on another stave church

    In the story, Gunnar murders his brother-in-law and hides his gold. Atle, the King of Hunaland, wants Gunnar to tell him where the gold is. So, Atle ties Gunnar’s hands behind his back and throw him in a snake pit – a common theme in old sagas. Gunnar manages to play a harp with his feet, and all the snakes fall asleep. Well, except for one, who kills Gunnar, but still. Gunnar is a hero! When Gunnar dies, Atle is unable to ever learn the hiding place of the gold. Gunnar in the snake pit is a very popular motif in Norwegian and Swedish medieval art, and snakes are found all over stave churches.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9vMyCQCP24

    Interior Decoration

    In 1760 the exterior got panels; before then, it was bare timber. The church has always been covered in tar, as are all stave churches.

    One of the most interesting aspects of the church is its western portal, or western entrance. It is richly carved from the late Middle Ages and includes a depiction of Gunnar. Gunnar is the lead character in the Volsungesaga, a pre-Christian saga based on ancient Germanic myths.

    Gunnar depicted on another stave church

    In the story, Gunnar murders his brother-in-law and hides his gold. Atle, the King of Hunaland, wants Gunnar to tell him where the gold is. So, Atle ties Gunnar’s hands behind his back and throw him in a snake pit – a common theme in old sagas. Gunnar manages to play a harp with his feet, and all the snakes fall asleep. Well, except for one, who kills Gunnar, but still. Gunnar is a hero! When Gunnar dies, Atle is unable to ever learn the hiding place of the gold. Gunnar in the snake pit is a very popular motif in Norwegian and Swedish medieval art, and snakes are found all over stave churches.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9vMyCQCP24

    Interior Decoration

    The oldest decorations inside the church are from 1656. However, most of the decoration comes from the period 1721-1723 and the painting style is Rococo. Rich decorations of flowers and vines cover the interior. The artist (or artists) is unknown, but it’s clear inspiration came from European art.
    Parts of the medieval floor are preserved. Until 1620, the only light came from portholes high up, but that year two windows were put in. The pews were added in 1624. It’s not clear when the church got its pulpit and altarpiece, but they were there in 1656.

    The most interesting interior item is no longer inside the church. It is a 30cm high crucifix of bronze and enamel. It came from Lingoes in France and was made during the 13th century. It’s not known how a French object made its way to this remote valley. Today you can see the crucifix in the Cultural History Museum in Oslo.

    The church today

    Uvdal Stave Church was taken out of use in 1893 when the new church was completed in the new village centre. Services occasionally take place here in the summer, but mostly the church is a museum piece. It’s probably lucky the village was built up in a different location, otherwise, the stave church may have been torn down.

    Visiting the church

    You can visit Uvdal Stave Church throughout the year, but it’s only open in the summer months.

    The church is open daily from the beginning of June until the end of August. Tickets cost 80 NOK for an adult.

    Up-to-date opening hours and admission fees can be found here: https://www.stavechurch.com/uvdal-stave-church/?lang=en

    The Fv40 Highway

    You can reach Uvdal Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv40 Highway
    Geilo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Numedal Valley, Oslo & the East, Stave Churches

    Nore Stave Church

    Nore Stave Church

    Nore Stave Church is the third church you’ll pass if driving up the medieval Numedal Valley from Oslo towards Geilo. And, like its neighbours, it has unique qualities. What makes this church special is that its floor plan is unknown in Norway. It is an original cruciform church. In comparison, the other stave churches were rebuilt as cruciform churches much later. Additionally, Nore Stave Church is well decorated. Its interior is special in so many ways.

    In this article, I explore what makes this church so special. This includes its history, architecture, and decoration. At the bottom you’ll find some info on visiting the church.

    In this article...

    The Fv40 Highway

    You can reach Nore Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv40 Highway
    Geilo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Nore Stave Church & Nore Community

    Nore is a tiny village located along the Norefjord, a lake that continues on from the Numedal River. On the west side of the lake is the original settlement, including farms and the church. On the east is the main road through the valley. The bridge is from 1930; before then, the locals had to take boats across. The word ‘Nore’ comes from the Old Norse ‘nore’ meaning “narrow sound or strait”, referring to the lake. Nore stave church is south of the main town.

    What about the church? Well, its age is somewhat unknown. Looking at the wood, it’s believed that the church is from some time after 1167. The portal is the same age as the one found in Flesberg, which is from between 1163 and 1189. The centre mast in Nore was felled in the winter of 1167/1168, and it’s believed they built the church with fresh wood, likely in the following summer.

    During an archaeological excavation, archaeologists found coins under the floor. In total there are 276 coins, and 24 of them from Håkon Håkonsson’s reign (1217-1263).

    The unique building style of Nore Stave Church

    The floor plan of Nore Stave Church is unique. It is built as a cruciform church with an even floor plan; a style unknown in any other church in Norway. The big question is whether it was originally built as a cruciform church, or if later builders added the arms. In other stave churches, the cruciform floor plan came much later. Stone churches in Norway didn’t have this floor plan either. The closest similarity is a church in Kalundborg, Denmark, built in the late 12th century. It’s pretty much unknown where this Norwegian builder took inspiration. Other stave churches may have had this style, but they are all gone. After all, there are only 28 stave churches remaining of the original 1000.

    There’s lots of evidence for age of the floor plan. First off, the staves in the middle walls are younger than the corner staves, likely from the 15th century. Still, there are grooves in the staves indicating that the centre mast (the large vertical beam in the middle of the church) is from the original construction. Therefore, it is likely that the younger staves were added to reinforce or repair the church.

    The Centre Mast (Source)

    In the middle of the church is its central mast, a large vertical beam. It supports the tower (turret) on top of the church. While the tower is from 1730, the central mast is dated to the original stave church. This suggests that there has always been a tower on the church, it was simply replaced later on. The tower and central mast had to be strong enough to support and ring the church bells. It is uncommon to find a tower on a stave church; often the church bells were kept in a separate building as their weight was too much for the stave church.

    The uniqueness of the architecture has given the style the name “Nummedals-type”.

    Nore Stave Church around 1930 (Source)

    Renovation in the 17th & 18th centuries

    Like many stave churches, especially the ones in Numedal Valley, Nore underwent huge changes between 1650 and 1750. The first renovations added the chancel, transepts, western porch and sacristy. Only the nave (the middle of the church) is in its original form.

    The overall construction is complex with bits of the old and the new scattered around the church. Still, the main structure of the stave church is original and in tact. Moreover, builders reused older parts of the church in newer constructions.

    Saving Nore Stave Church

    Like many other stave churches in Norway, Nore was old and in desperate need of repair in the 19th century. The locals wanted a newer and larger church. There was interest in demolishing the stave church. However, in 1888, art historian and author Lorentz Dietrichson (1834-1917) purchased the church. He had a major role in founding the Society for the Preservation of Ancient Norwegian Monuments (Fortidsminneforeningen) and donated Nore Stave Church to the Society in 1890.

    Nore Stave Church Today

    Restoration Work

    The last comprehensive restoration was done in 1927, after the Society took over. At this point, the church was leaning strongly and had to be straightened. Some beams were replaced due to rotting. The terrain under the floor had to be levelled.

    The interior of Nore Stave Church (Source)

    Medieval Crucifix (Source)

    Interior & Exterior Decoration

    Nore Stave Church is beautiful both inside and out – sounds like a motivational poster! But seriously, the decoration of this church makes it special.

    The decoration is from all time periods. For example, under the pulpit and to the west of the nave are remains of benches from the Middle Ages. These were the only seats; before the Lutheran Reformation you had to stand in the church. The seats were for the old and the sick. There are two rune inscriptions in the church, one being a prayer saying “grant me all that is good.”

    Most of the medieval inventory is gone, except for the baptismal font. There are two carved crucifixes in the church and they are from the 13th century. They’ve undergone some surgery over the years, though. One got a new face and the other got new arms and a thick second coat of paint!

    Lots of images and sketches of the church can be found at snl.no (click here)

    Most of the decoration is from 1650-1750. The wall paintings are mostly from this time, and the paintings depict Bible verses, leaves, flowers and fruit. The decoration is very like Flesberg, which is from the same period. The altarpiece is a copy of the one in Kongsberg Church, also like Flesberg. The portal on the porch is decorated with animal and plant imagery. There are also two winged dragons (a pagan symbol) that have wound their necks around each other. Above the portal is a large plate with embossed lions that holds the Danish/Norwegian King Frederik IV’s crowned monogram. Below the monogram is the date “1723”.

    Stave Churches were not built with windows. If anything, they had tiny circular windows. After all, glass was not common in Norway at the time and it can get very cold in the winter! The windows on the church were added to the church in the 17th century.

    Grave of one of the priests of Nore Stave Church.

    Surrounding Cemetery

    The cemetery is older than the church. Archaeological excavations show that an older burial ground stood under the church. Two medieval tombs were found under the church, and one theory is that it was the builder of the church and his wife. The graves were sunken and the area was levelled by filling in the graves.

    It’s believed that another church stood here before the present church, but it was in a slightly different position. The oldest graves are to the south than those from the time of the stave church. The older church may have had a different orientation.

    The cemetery is surrounded by an old stone fence. The village road used to pass through the graveyard. On the north side is a stone slab with an iron ring to tie a horse on.

    Visiting the church

    The church is open from mid-June to mid-August every day between 10am and 6pm. Tickets cost 70 NOK for an adult. The up-to-date information can be found here.

    There are brown tourist road signs pointing to the church and it can be seen from a distance, so it’s fairly easy to find. Just follow Fv40 (the main highway through the Numedal Valley) and turn off to cross the bridge.

    There is a parking area in front of the church (free).

    The Fv40 Highway

    You can reach Nore Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv40 Highway
    Geilo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Numedal Valley, Oslo & the East, Stave Churches

    Rollag Stave Church

    Rollag Stave Church

    Rollag Stave Church is the second church along the road in the historic Numedal Valley. The valley has the largest number of medieval wooden buildings in Norway. If you drive up the valley from Kongsberg to Geilo, you’ll pass many of these ancient buildings.

    The stave church is just off the highway and north of the village of Rollag. Moreover, while it has undergone many changes since it was built, it’s still well worth visiting.

    In this article...

    The Fv40 Highway

    You can reach Rollag Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv40 Highway
    Kongsberg Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Rollag Stave Church

    An old photo of Rollag Stave Church. Likely early 20th century. (Source)

    It’s believed the first church in Rollag stood here around the second half of the 12th century. Moreover, the church we have today may be the second one on the site. Rollag Stave Church is in documents from 1425. The church is older than that, though.

    The most famous parish priest is the Danish Knut Jørgensen Winter. He came from Jutland in 1651 to be the priest and his first task was to rebuild the church. Winter first painted the inside and added benches and windows. He also had a new choir and altarpiece built. On the outside of the church, he had the monogram of Christian V placed on the wall. The church is unique for its heavy Danish influence.

    Later restorations expanded and changed the church dramatically. During the last restoration, attempts were made to bring it closer to Winter’s 17th century church.

    Architecture

    Rollag Stave Church is a single nave simple stave church. This is the most basic type of stave church construction. It has a square nave. It has four outer corner staves supporting the structure.

    In 1660, Rollag was rebuilt as a cruciform church, which was the style of the time. Cruciform churches have a floor-plan of a cross. Almost everything was replaced, though the original staves are still in place. They are just hidden under the modern construction. Further expansions took place in the 17th and 18th centuries. The nave is longer, the church received a porch, and the roof was raised.

    The last major restoration took place in 1932. They brought the church back to an earlier style.

    While there isn’t much of the original church left, Rollag is still regarded as one of the most beautiful rural churches. A unique feature of the church is that every generation has left their mark. They have expanded and rebuilt the church as they needed, demolished and painted walls. They have added and removed bits from the church to suit their needs.

    Exterior Decoration

    Much of the exterior is from the 17th/18th century restoration. The windows, tower, and extensions are not from the original stave church. If you are looking for the original church, it’s the core centre.

    A unique feature of the church is the monogram outside. The outer wall monogram of Christian V is from 1697. The board also has the inscription ‘IHS’ at the top (Iesus Hominum Salvator – Jesus, Saviour of Men). This monogram is the first carved in wood in the Numedal Valley.

    Exterior door decoration

    Interior Decoration

    If you are lucky enough to see the inside of the church, you’re in for a treat. Rollag Stave Church is generally regarded as having one of the most beautiful interiors.

    The decoration is a mix of every generation that has passed through the church. There is art from the early Middle Ages through the baroque and rococo periods right up to the modern day.

    Rollag Stave Church interior (Source: LokalHistorieWiki)

    Benches were never inside stave churches. In Catholic times, you had to stand up and listen to the service, which was in Latin. Benches are a Lutheran addition. Also, the service was in Danish in the Lutheran times.

    The interior is richly painted. For example, on the choir you’ll see depictions of foliage and exotic fruit. These paintings represent the fruits of paradise. Interestingly, the paintings are Catholic motifs that they painted during Lutheran times. Additionally, the altarpiece has a relief of the eucharist. This is a casting of a silver relief found in Frederiksborg Castle Church in Denmark.

    The pulpit is the first rococo artifact in Numedal. Most importantly, it has one panel for each of the four evangelists. The fifth panel has the inscription “Painted in 1763 by E. Dram”. He worked on decorations in Kongsberg Church and Veggli Stave Church.

    In the 1770s, all the interior wall decorations were painted over in blue paint. They were uncovered again in the 1932 restoration.

    What makes this church different than others?

    I find this church is unique when it comes to its Danish influence. Not architectural influence, but rather the decorations both inside and out.

    Around the church

    The stone wall around Rollag Stave Church

    In the cemetery you’ll see an old stone wall. Some stone slabs have a rather ring for horses. Moreover, the birch trees were planted along the wall in 1936. Some graves are from the early 19th century. The church used to have a tomb cellar under the choir, but it was filled in with sand in 1870.

    Also in the cemetery, close to the Christian V monogram, is an ancient stone cross. It’s not known when this was placed here or why. One theory is that this site was an ancient gathering place for Christians before they got a church. Close by is the historic Rollag farmstead, and it’s known that churches were built on the wealthiest properties.

    Close by is the Rollag Vicarage. It has six buildings and is heritage listed. The oldest part is from 1630, and the bishop’s home is from 1720. It still is the parish priests residence and is therefore private property. Just south of the church is the disused Numedalsbanen.

    The church today

    Rollag Stave Church is still owned by the congregation and still functions as the parish church. Every other Sunday from March to November, the congregation comes here. The villagers are very proud of their church, and rightly so!

    During the summer months, between mid-June and mid-August, the church is open to the public daily from 11am to 5pm.

    Visiting Rollag Stave Church

    When driving on the Fv40 (the main road through the Numedal Valley), you’ll see the turnoff for the church – it’s marked as a brown sign. Note that it’s in Norwegian, so it says “Rollag stavkirke”. The church is 6km off the main highway, and you drive through beautiful farmland. The road you’ll drive on is Rollagsvegen, and you don’t need to go back to this turn-off after visiting the church. I recommend following Rollagsvegen until it rejoins the Fv40. It’s such a beautiful drive.

    You will see a tiny parking place when approaching the church, but if you drive past it you’ll reach a larger parking lot. Parking is free.

    Church of Norway website: https://kirken.no/nb-NO/fellesrad/Rollag/kirker/rollag-stavkirke/

    Medieval Week in the Numedal Valley + Visitor Information: https://middelalderuka.no/index.php/en/stavkirker/rollag-stavkirke

    The Fv40 Highway

    You can reach Rollag Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv40 Highway
    Kongsberg Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Kongsberg, Numedal Valley, Oslo & the East, Stave Churches

    Flesberg Stave Church

    Flesberg Stave Church

    Flesberg Stave Church is the first stave church you’ll pass when making your way up the historic Numedal Valley from Oslo towards Geilo. However, it doesn’t really look like a stave church. That’s because it was extended in the early 18th century. They removed most of the stave church. Still, there is a story with this church, and it’s well worth a stop on your Numedal road-trip. Here’s my overview of Flesberg Stave Church.

    In this article...

    The Fv40 Highway

    You can reach Flesberg Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv40 Highway
    Kongsberg Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The original stave church

    The first written description of Flesberg Stave Church is from 1359. It’s believed the church is from the latter half of the 1100s or the first half of the 1200s. The church was a single nave church with four-free standing internal posts bearing a central raised roof. It is the stave church category ‘churches with elevated naves’, in the same category as churches like Borgund, Gol, Lom and Kaupanger.

    We know what Flesberg used to look like. Luckily, one of the first-ever paintings of a stave church is of Flesberg from 1701, shortly before it they rebuilt it. From this, we can see how much Flesberg looked like the churches mentioned above.

    Flesberg Stave Church in the 1930s (Source)

    Rebuilding the church

    The priest in the 1730s, Johannes Berthelsen, complained the church was too small. So, they made plans to expand the church. In 1735, the chancel and aspe, as well as the east nave, were removed. They added two transepts. The new church was a cruciform plan. The new additions were not built in the stave style, but rather the modern horizontal log style. In 1792, they rebuilt the roof.

    The stave church choir was torn down. Moreover, the middle poles were removed. It’s not known how many poles stood here, but there are traces of corner bars.

    The only part of the original stave church is on the western side.

    Stave decorations

    On the west portal you can see stave decorations. You’ll see carved vines and animal ornamentation. These are only tiny remnants of the original decor.

    Today Flesberg has little in common with the other stave churches. There are so few indications of the original church.

    Churchyard

    The churchyard is fence with slate from the Haukeli farm on the west bank of the Lågen River. Some slates have iron rings attached to them; this was for the horses. The oldest ring is from 1661.

    The stone fence is shown in the 1701 painting. The fence is at least that old.

    Outside the church you’ll find some very old gravestones. Moreover, there is also a blue plaque saying that elections took place at this church in 1814. This isn’t unique; many churches in Norway have this blue plaque.

    Restoration Work

    They did an extensive restoration in the 1870s, but it did no favours for the stave part of the church. The National Heritage Board did a new renovation between 1955 and 1965. This renovation brought the church back to its 18th century appearance.

    Exterior decoration

    The western portal of the ship is where you’ll find some exterior decoration. The entrance has two lion figures above it. The posts on either side of the doorway are richly decorated with carved vines and animal ornamentation.

    Interior. From Wikipedia.

    Interior decoration

    The interior of the church is well known. It’s not open to the public all the time (see below), so there is a chance you won’t be able to see inside. I didn’t get the opportunity to see inside, but I still think it’s worth putting an overview here.

    The interior of the church is redecorated to look like the church did in 1735. There are very few remains of its medieval era. The whitewashing on the walls was removed in the 1950s. They discovered decorative paintings from the Middle Ages. Some fixtures date back to the Middle Ages, including a bell and the baptismal font. Otherwise, the pulpit is from the 1600s and the chandeliers are from the 18th century. The 1701 painting of the church is inside.

    Flesberg town

    Flesberg is a sleepy community with little opportunities for shopping or sightseeing. This is partly because the town is close to Kongsberg, a large and famous Norwegian town known for its historic mines.

    The name Flesberg comes from an old farm. The Flesberg Stave Church is built on the farm. This is very common in small towns in Norway. They built churches on the richest farms, and eventually the farms became the towns. Fles means ‘rock’ and berg means ‘mountain’.

    Today around 1,172 people live in Flesberg. Forestry and agriculture are the main industries. Many people in Flesberg commute to nearby Kongsberg.

    Visiting the church

    Flesberg is open throughout the summer (late June to early August) on Tuesdays – Fridays and Sunday fro 12pm to 5pm.

    Tickets are 35 NOK pp.

    The Numedal Valley, which is the best preserved medieval valley in Norway, has a Medieval Week. If you happen to be in Numedal during Medieval Week, the church is open every day from 12pm to 5pm.

    Flesberg is still an active church for the community.

    Flesberg is located on the Fv40 highway that connects Kongsberg to Geilo in central-eastern Norway. It is marked with brown signs saying “Flesberg stavkirke”.

    We parked across the street, where there is a large parking area.

    The Fv40 Highway

    You can reach Flesberg Stave Church by taking the Fv40. You can find my guide to the Fv40 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv40 Highway
    Kongsberg Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide