Back in June of 2022 I got the last-minute opportunity to lead a group to Utne in Hardanger. I’ve been to Hardanger many, many times (my husbands family is from Ulvik), but I’d never made the time to take the ferry across to Utne. So, of course, I took the job and off I went with a group of Americans. Boy, was I surprised.
I had read about Utne and knew it was picturesque and charming, but I was surprised by just how lovely it was. We took the ferry across from Kinsarvik and then walked to the Hardanger Folk Museum. After having a guided tour through some of the outdoor buildings, we had lunch and free time to explore before we took the ferry back to Kinsarvik.
You don’t need a guide to do Utne, and you can definitely overnight there. Utne doesn’t get the big tour buses and masses of caravans that other places in Hardanger get, so it almost feels like a well-kept secret being there. The village is very popular with Norwegians, though.
Looking out at Utne from the Folk Museum
Utne is easily one of the most picturesque villages that you’ll find in Hardanger. Unlike many other towns that have succumbed to modernisation and development, Utne has preserved its old streets and wooden houses. It also has some of the most spectacular views out to the Hardangerfjord.
I’ve put together an overview of the highlights of Utne so you can be convinced to add it to your Hardanger road-trip!
Utne is easily accessible by ferry or road (though it does look very isolated on a map!). There is a ferry route linking Utne to both sides of the fjord. One ferry goes from Kinsarvik to Utne, while the other goes from Kvanndal to Utne.
It is possible to drive to Utne via Odda or Jondal, but the roads are narrow and the drive is time consuming. If you can, take a ferry.
Tip – I would strongly recommend leaving your car at the ferry pier and taking the ferry over as just a person. It’s free for people to take the ferry without a car, and Utne is so walkable you don’t need a car.
Utne's History
Being a small village of 146 people, there’s no extensive records of Utne’s history. However, people have lived here for hundreds of years and they relied heavily on the fruit production that came to Hardanger in the 13th century. Utne is regarded as one of the best places to grow fruits, so the villagers relied on production every year to support themselves.
These days Utne is less about fruit production and more about tourism, but fruit production is still extremely important to the area.
Utne Hotel
The first building you’ll see off the ferry is the Utne Hotel. The Utne Hotel is the oldest hotel in continuous operation in Norway, founded in 1722. Part of the hotel is from the 18th century, but a large part has been expanded and added on to. The largest development was in the late 19th century, when the hotel got its characteristic Swiss style of architecture. The last extension was in the 1930s.
What’s fascinating is that the hotel has historically been managed by strong women. One of the old hostesses has earned the nickname ‘Mother Utne’ and she ran the hotel for 70s. She was apparently known all over Europe for her hospitality. There’s a silver wreath in the restaurant dedicated to her.
There are only 17 rooms in the hotel, and each one is unique. It makes it feel extra special and exclusive, but this is also reflected in the price. Rooms go for about 5000 NOK a night.
You can also visit the hotels restaurant and have a meal or take part in their cider tasting.
If you want to stay somewhere a little more budget friendly, try the Hardanger Gjestegård. This historic guesthouse dates from 1898 and feels like a museum inside with its wooden panels and old furniture. It’s located about 10km out of Utne.
The white wooden church just above the hotel is not a historic church; it was built in the late 19th century after the locals wanted to stop taking the boat across to Kinsarvik Church. They had to raise the money to build the church themselves, so it did take some time. The church seats about 300 people. It’s just a few minutes walk from the ferry pier.
Hardanger Folk Museum
The Hardanger Folk Museum is one of the true delights of visiting Utne. The museum is a little hilly, but it’s well worth the climb.
Reconstructed farm
The museum was founded in 1911 and features a reconstruction of a traditional cluster farm. The oldest building is a medieval log house with a central open fire. The museum also has shops, businesses and mini factories from all over Hardanger.
Birch roofingPreserved painting inside one of the farm housesOld beer bowl
Down by the water are some well-preserved boathouses with traditional Hardanger boats.
Hardanger fiddles on display
Meanwhile, the indoor exhibitions focus on Hardanger folk costumes and folk music, in particular the Hardanger fiddle.
Hardanger bunadsHardanger embroidery
Inside you’ll also find a lovely cafe. A special treat about the museum is that they produce their own cider and juice, which is only available from the museum. This also brings me to the next reason to come here…
Apple trees can be seen everywhere!
Incredible Hardanger Fruits
Utne is perfectly situated if you want to try the fruits grown in the Hardanger region. 1km from Utne is Norway’s largest fruit warehouse where plums, apples, pears and other fruits are sorted and packed. The region is also famous for its cider production, and you can buy cider from most farms.
Utne is actually considered one of the best places in Hardanger for fresh fruit, and for many years the village relied on its fruit production.
I am a huge fan of apples from Hardanger, and can never turn down the locally made apple juice. The ciders can be quite sweet, but they are also delicious.
Hike it off!
Utne is surrounded by short and long hikes. Close to the ferry pier you’ll find a map of all the hikes in the area.
I think one of the best ways to see Norway is by car. It may seem a little intimidating at first, with all those mountain roads, ferries, tolls, and crazy expensive petrol. But if you plan accordingly and have the budget for it, you’ll get to see the best bits of nature. And one of the best things to do is driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord.
There are two ways to get to the Hardangerfjord from Bergen: the Hardanger Scenic Route and the main highway to Granvin through Voss. The Hardanger Scenic Route certainly sounds appealing, but if narrow fjord-side roads make you nervous, or you’re short on time, the main highway is an excellent alternative.
(click the image to see it larger)
I’ve done both ways so many times; my family is from the innermost part of the Hardangerfjord so we always try to make a day of it when we are going to the farm. Also, it’s common to do day tours to Hardanger from Bergen.
For my overview, I’ve used Granvin as the end-point. It’s not really famous for anything; it’s a crossroads. From Granvin you can head to Ulvik, Eidfjord, Utne and Odda: four very popular places to spend the night. The advantages of each of them:
The Hardanger Bridge, which you take to Eidfjord and Odda
Where to Stay in Hardanger
Ulvik:
The famous Brakanes Hotel is a good option for the night
Ulvik has the apple cider route, where you can visit farms and try their produce
Eidfjord:
Leads up to the famous Vøringsfossen and then the scenic road over the Hardangervidda National Park down to Oslo
Hardanger Nature Centre is located here
Beware – major cruise port!
Utne:
Incredibly scenic with a historic hotel
The Hardanger Scenic Route continues on this side of the fjord
Odda:
The Ullensvang Hotel is a historic hotel
The popular hike to Troll Tongue starts at Tyssedal
Folgefonna National Park
If you are doing this as a day-trip from Bergen and back, it’s very easy to do both roads in one day.
Anyway, here’s my overview of what you see when driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord.
The Hardanger Scenic Route
The Practical Info
Distance from Bergen to Granvin: 127km / 79.1 miles Time from Bergen to Granvin: 2 hours 9 minutes (not including stops) Toll Cost: 100 NOK [mfn]https://www.fjellinjen.no/private/toll-calculator/[/mfn] Open All Year? Yes.
The turn-off to the Hardanger Scenic Route is located at a roundabout in Trengereid. Here’s what you can see, stop at, and experience as you head towards Granvin:
Ådland Church
Ådland Church is a historic church located just outside Samnanger community. A church as stood on this site since the 12th century and the first church was likely a stave church. A new church was built here in 1652 and then it was replaced in 1851 by the church you see today.
The church is used for weddings, baptisms, confirmations and service takes place every other Sunday.
Samnanger
Samnanger is a small village around 20km (12 miles) from Bergen, though the drive is considerably longer thanks to the mountains. It is separated from Bergen thanks to Gullfjellet, the tallest mountain in the municipality. The village grew in the early 20th century thanks to the construction of hydroelectric power plants in the area.
The body of water you’ll see here is the Samnangerfjord, which is 22km (14 miles) long and forms the southern boundary of the Bergen peninsula.
Facilities: Grocery stores (SPAR and Kiwi Bjørkheim) Cafe/Kro (MIX) Petrol Station
Mørkhølsfossen
Mørkhølsfossen is a waterfall located alongside the road. There’s a place to park the car and go for a short 400m walk along the river.
Facilities: Rest stop
Fossen Bratte
Fossen Bratte is a more well-known waterfall along the Hardanger Scenic Road. The waterfall is 80m long.
During World War II, the valley was the scene of fighting when the Germans were making their way inland. There was a barrier position put up in the bend in the road where the waterfall throws itself out. If you walk to the top of the waterfall (there is a path), you’ll see a cannon and some signage commemorating the Norwegians who lost their lives here from this fighting.
If you walk to the bottom of the waterfall, which again is on a path, you’ll come to another memorial. In 1951, a married couple were on their honeymoon when they drove off the road here. The waterfall is nicknamed the ‘bridal veil’ and many think it’s from that, but the nickname has been used since the early 20th century.
This is a very popular stop and the carpark is tiny.
Facilities: Restrooms Car parking
Eikedalen
Once you’re on the other side of the tunnel after Fossen Bratte, you’ll see many, many cabins on the hillside. This is the area known as Eikedalen and Kvamskogen, and it’s a popular ski area for the Bergen locals.
Eikedalen is the name of the ski centre that is soon on your left. It has the 10th longest chairlift in Northern Europe at a length of 1800m. The highest peak is Grøtet, which is 918m above sea level. In total, Eikedalen has a total of seven ski lifts with 12 slopes.
Kvamskogen
Kvamskogen is the name of the mountain plateau and region. In total, there are over 1700 cabins in this area; the third-highest concentration of cabins in the country.
Historically, this was a mountain pasture of the farmers from Steinsdalen (where Steindalsfossen is). The farmers used the area to cut grass that would then be brought home by horses in the winter. Much of the wood the farmers needed was also here.
The road you’re on was the main road between Bergen and Eastern Norway in 1907. From the post-war period onwards, the drive was increasingly difficult due to the number of parked cars on Kvamskogen. Even though the road has been widened and carparks added, it can still sometimes take a long time to pass through here.
The Old Highways
Once past Kvamskogen, the road has four tunnels as you make your way down to Steinsdalen (Stein Valley or ‘Rock Valley’). These four tunnels were built in the 1950s after the old highway was becoming increasingly dangerous.
As you drive through the tunnels, there are openings on the side that shows the old road. The old road was built between 1903 and 1907, with large sections built by hand while workers hung from ropes. The rock in the mountain is ‘junk rock’ and is slowly breaking apart, meaning, there were lots of rockslides on the road. This is why the tunnels were built.
After the last tunnel, there is a parking area to the right. However, when I stopped there recently the rock was crumbling under the carpark and the fence was almost hanging off the side. Not the safest spot to stop.
Steinsdalsfossen
This is one of the most famous waterfalls in Norway. You are able to walk behind the waterfall without (mostly) getting wet. It is at its most full in May-June when the snow is melting. The drop of the waterfall is 20m.
Facilities: Toilets (closed October – May) Souvenir shops (two of them!) Coffee and snacks Information boards
Norheimsund
Norheimsund is a small town with a settlement of 4,399 inhabitants. It is the shopping hub for the outer Hardanger region and has plenty of shops and facilities. Norheimsund is also a traffic hub. From here, you can take a ferry to Utne and Odda, or take a bus to Bergen, Voss, Vikøy, Tørvikbygd, Jondal, Strandebarm and Kvinnherad.
The town centre of Norheimsund was destroyed by a fire in 1932 and has been rebuilt in a functionalist architecture, so it’s not the most beautiful place. During World War II, the occupying forces had a large training camp in Norheimsund and defence installations were built against the fjord.
The Hardanger Maritime Centre is a foundation that restores and protects different types of boats. It’s possible to visit the area during the summer season.
Facilities Hotels (Thon Hoten Sandven) Shopping Mall (Straumen Senter) Grocery stores Sporting goods store Pubs, restaurants, cafes ATM Hardanger Maritime Museum & Maritime Centre Emergency room Petrol station
Øystese
Øystese is a small town just 7km (4 miles) from Norheimsund. The town is on the up and up, with a brand-new Hardangerfjord Hotel and Spa built alongside the fjord.
There’s a quirky sculpture museum here with the works of Ingebrigt Vik. The building looks like it shouldn’t be in a small Norwegian village.
Øystese itself is known for its furniture production, especially in tables. There’s also a printing press here, dairy factories and shops. The church was built in 1868 and is a typical 19th century church.
Facilities Hotels (Hardangerfjord Hotel) Grocery stores Electronics shop Cafes/restaurants Pharmacy Petrol station Art House Kabuso Hardanger SkySpace
Fyksesund Bridge
Shortly after leaving Øystese you’ll cross the Fyksesund Bridge. It is 344m long with a span of 230m. It was opened by Crown Prince Olav on 9 Octobe 1937 and at the time it was Northern Europe’s longest suspension bridge.
The fish farm on a gorgeous spring day
Hardanger Akvasenter
Immediately after the bridge is the Hardanger Akvasenter, an active fish farm that you are able to visit. The main display centre/museum is in Øystese, but if you book ahead you can have a tour of the fish farm. At the fish farm you’ll learn about how salmon farming works. The fish farm is owned by Lingalaks AS, which is responsible for the fish production in the area. It’s a family owned company that today has about 2.5 million fish in their farms and employs 40 people. If you stay at the Hardangerfjord Hotel, you can taste the salmon there.
The view from the top of the farm
Steinstø Farm
Steinstø Fruitfarm has been owned by the same family for nine generations. If you visit the farm, you can learn about how the farm is run and how it was run in the past. There’s a shop by the road that sells fruits and berries as well as homemade apple juice, homemade jam, jellies, lefse, apple cake and souvenirs. There’s also a small café where you can have coffee and cake. Restrooms are under the building.
In any case, it is possible to book a visit to the farm, but it’s often reserved for groups.
Steinstø has become very popular in recent years, so if you’re visiting in summer you may see a couple tour buses parked out the front.
Facilities Cafe Restrooms Shop
Note: Their opening hours vary quite a lot throughout the year. Check the website/Facebook page before going:
The rest area is an idyllic spot with a view over the Hardangerfjord. On a clear day, you can see the Folgefonna glacier. The area is built on two levels.
Facilities Toilets Picnic/BBQ Information board
Ålvik
Ålvik is a small town that is known throughout Norway for its industrial site. A factory was built here at the beginning of the 20th century to take advantage of the hydroelectric power from the Bjølvo waterfalls. The factory was completed in 1919, producing calcium carbide for a time. The villages population rose from 75 to 500 following the opening of the factory. In the 1920s, the company was given major sales contracts for ferrosilicon to the British steel industry. A production line for ferrochrome was established in 1934.
The road connection to Bergen was added in 1937.
The plant made Ålvik the most polluted place on the Hardangerfjord and at times the whole town could be covered in smog. Government environmental regulations put pressure on the company, and ferrochrome production ended in 1979. Ferrosilicon was prioritised to comply with environmental standards and furnaces were rebuilt, making it possible to recycle excess heat.
Stopping for photos somewhere near Ålvik. Photo taken in April.
The factory is still the village’s main employer. It is now a subsidary of Elkem, which is owned by China National Bluestar. Today the factory recycles waste from aluminium production. The hydropower plant is now owned by Statkraft.
The Ålvik Industrial Worker’s Museum documents the village’s labour heritage through the exposition of two restored workers apartments typical to the 1920s and 1950.
Today Ålvik has a primary school, kindergarten, nursing home, church, library, several artists and plenty of hiking trails.
Granvin
You’ll drive alongside the Granvinfjord before you make it to Granvin, and this part of the drive is especially narrow! The Granvinfjord is 10km (6.2 miles) long and less than 1km wide. At the end of the fjord you can see the lumber and wood products industry, which in 2019 accounted for 80% of all industry-related employment in the area. Granvin is home to one of Norway’s few spruce forests.
The name Granvin comes from an old farm that used to stand here. The coat-of-arms is the Hardanger Fiddle, which is representative of the folk tradition of the region.
During World War II, there was some fighting between German and Norwegian forces here. Germans landed in Granvin on the 25th of April as part of their movement towards the military camps at Voss. Four Norwegians and at least 30 Germans fell during the fighting. The population has decreased significantly since the war. 29% of the population here commute to Voss for work.
Granvin is an agricultural area characterised by livestock, mainly sheep. There’s a fantastic shop you should visit – Kjerland Gardsbutikk – where you can look at and buy produce from all the surrounding farms.
Facilities: Rental homes Grocery stores Charging station for electric cars Kjerland Gardsbutikk
The Highway Through Voss
Here’s option two! Driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord through Voss is a great option ff you’re short on time or don’t want to drive on narrow roads.
The Practical Info
Distance from Bergen to Granvin: 129km / 80.4 miles Time from Bergen to Granvin: 1 hour 52 minutes (not including stops) Toll Cost: 72 NOK [mfn]https://www.fjellinjen.no/private/toll-calculator/[/mfn] Open All Year? Yes.
The village as seen from the Hananipa hike I did a while back
Vaksdal
This will be the first point of interest after going through Trengereid. Vaksdal is a small community known for the Vaksdal Mill, which was established in the late 19th century using power from the nearby waterfalls. The waterfall was first utilised with mechanical transmission of power to the mill machines. Vaksdal Mill was once the largest mill plant in Northern Europe. During World War II, there was heavy fighting in Vaksdal between the 19th and 23rd of April. Three Norwegian soldiers and one civilian and a larger, but unknown, number of German soldiers fell in Vaksdal.
Dale
If you love knitwear, you’ll love Dale! This small village is famous for Dale of Norway, a Norwegian knitwear brand. The business was established in 1872, when industrialist Peter Jebsen (1824 – 1892, you can see his house on my Årstad walk) first established a textile factory in Dale. After World War II, the factory developed exports of its knitted sweaters. Since 1956, Dale of Norway has designed and produced official Olympic and World Championship sweaters for the Norwegian National Alpine Ski Team. They were also later chosen to design the official sweaters for the Winter Olympic Games through the IOC, with rights to use the Olympic symbols.
It’s possible to visit the Dale of Norway factory. If you plan ahead you can take a guided tour. If you just show up, there’s a great outlet store!
Dale has a small church, the Dale Church, which dates to 1956 and can be seen from the road.
Facilities Roadside Cafe Petrol station (shell) Dale of Norway Factory Outlet and Museum Grocery Stores (Coop Extra, SPAR)
Bolstadøyri
Bolstadøyri is a historic spot on the old route between Voss and Bergen. Before the train link was built, transfer between the two was by horse and boat. This is where the boat journey started.
Evanger
Evanger is a traditional West Norwegian village. The village was destroyed by a fire on the 10th of April 1923 and was rebuilt exactly how we see it today. Because of this, Evanger town centre has been regulated as a special area of protection as a culturally and historically valuable building environment. Evanger Church escaped the fire and was built in 1851.
After that, outside the courthouse is a monument to Knute Nelson, who was born here and emigrated to the United States in 1849. He became a lawyer and politician and was for many years a senator for Minnesota.
Evanger is famous in Norway for its cured meats. There are several companies here that specialise in the production of traditional food.
Facilities BnB Grocery store (Landhandleri)
The Voss River
The Voss River is a famous salmon river. When tourism was growing in the 19th century, English ‘salmon lords’ would travel here to catch some top-notch Norwegian salmon. The biggest salmon to be caught here was 32kg! In the last few decades, the salmon population has declined due to pollution, disease and other unknown factors.
Voss
Welcome to Voss! There’s a lot to do in Voss, and you could easily spend a night here.
According to legend, the people of Voss were forcibly converted to Christianity by King Olav, who later became Saint Olav. There’s a stone cross located by the lake that is said to have been erected at this time.
The Voss Church is built on the site of an old pagan temple. The church was built in 1277 under the instruction of King Magnus the Lawmender and it is one of the few buildings that survived the bombing of World War II.
When Germany invaded Norway on the 9th of April 1940, Voss was the main point of mobilisation for the Norwegian Army in the West since Bergen had fallen. To break down the resistance, the Luftwaffe bombed Voss on the 23rd and 24th of April and then the surrounding countryside on the 25th of April. Nine people lost their lives and the bombings completely destroyed the wood-built town centre. You’ll notice Voss has a very concrete look today; it was rebuilt cheaply during and after the war.
Voss is known far and wide for its extreme sports. You can do skiing, water sports, skydiving, paragliding and other adventure sports here. The brand-new Voss gondola opened in 2020 and it’s used for tourists or for hikers and skiers.
Facilities All the facilities of a mid-size town (groceries, shopping, ATM, petrol station, cafes and restaurants, etc) Toilets available at the train station Voss Gondola Hotels (Fleischer’s Hotel, Park Hotel, the brand-new Scandic Hotel) Voss Folk Museum
Skjervsfossen
Around half-way between Granvin and Voss is Skjervsfossen. Take the detour road off the main highway for this incredible sight. It’s possible to park at the top and the bottom of the waterfall and well-worth it. There’s a network of paths and stairs so you can walk around the waterfall and surrounding area.
The historic route is called ‘Skjervet’ and forms the old highway.
Facilities Toilets (closed October-May) Picnic/BBQ Information board about the area
Granvin Church
Shortly before arriving in Granvin you’ll pass the Granvin Church, which was built in 1726 and represents a typical example of an 18th century church building. In 2012 the church was listed for preservation as a culturally and historically important example of the richness of decoration in early 18th century churches.
Scenic Detour to Ulvik
If you’re planning to go to Ulvik, there’s a scenic road you can take over the mountain (rather than going along the fjord). It begins in Granvin (there’s a sign for the turn-off) and you can stop at a viewpoint overlooking Ulvik on the way back down. The road also passed the apple cider route in Ulvik.
Driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord
In conclusion, I hope this article has given you some ideas about how to drive from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord. In any case, there are no losers. Both drives are incredibly scenic and have unique attractions.
If you have any comments or suggestions please mention them below!
When visiting Bergen, you’ll see all of these flyers and ferries promoting day trips to the fjords. There are so many ways to get to the fjords from Bergen, and there are so many different place-names that are unfamiliar to visitors. I decided to write an overview of which areas are the best places if you want to take a day-trip from Bergen to get to the fjords. There are better tours than others, and there are more scenic places than others, but it depends on how much time you have, your budget, and your own personal interests. Here’s how to get to the fjords from Bergen!
How much time do you have? From Bergen, you can either take a half-day trip or a full-day trip. The half-day trips take 3-4 hours, while the full-day trips take up to 12 hours. The more time you have, the more flexibility and chance you have to see the dramatic fjords. Half-day trips do not take you to the most dramatic places.
What is your budget?
Any tour from Bergen is expensive, often costing between 1000 and 2000 NOK. The half-day trips are of course cheaper, varying from 450 to 700 NOK. The more money you spend, the more you’ll see. The cheaper tours may not be worth your money as they don’t take you out to the most dramatic areas.
Can you do it yourself?
The ‘in a nutshell’ options are not guided and use public transport, which you can book yourself. In some cases, it works out to be cheaper.
Do you need a guide? Possibly. It depends on your interests. I’m working on writing guides to all these places, but hiring a guide in some cases is really well worth it. You want to make sure the guide knows the areas, though. If you end up with a new guide who lives in Bergen, chances are they’ve been to the fjords just a couple times.
The reality of seeing the fjords
Bergen is on the coast, while the most dramatic scenery is found inland. You don’t get dramatic fjords along the coastline; instead you get rocky islands and a very flat landscape. If you want to see the most dramatic bits of nature, you have to head inland. This is when a half-day becomes a full-day.
Spending the night
If you get the chance, opt to spend a night in one of the small villages to break up your trip. It gives you more time to see things and enjoy the nature. Try to spend a night in places like Flåm, Balestrand, Ulvik, Eidfjord, or even Voss.
Full day trips: The Sognefjord
The Sognefjord is the longest fjord in Norway and the second longest in the world. You won’t have time to see the whole fjord in a day, and you don’t need to. Towards the sea, it’s quite flat and rocky (and maybe a little dull). Further inland you do get the more dramatic scenery. However, visiting the Sognefjord is perhaps best when you visit the small fjord branches off it, namely the Naeroyfjord (UNESCO World Heritage listed) and the Aurlandsfjord (where Flåm is). These are the two ‘must-see’ fjords on the Sognefjord and where most tours will take you.
Flåm Railway
Norway in a Nutshell
Norway in a Nutshell (NiN) is the famous day trip that will take you to some of the most beautiful places in Western Norway. It comprises of a series of public transport routes that will take you on trains, ferries and buses past dramatic scenery. It’s a great option if you really want ‘Norway in a nutshell’, but keep in mind it’s incredibly popular in summer.
What You Do:
Train from Bergen to Voss
Bus from Voss to Gudvangen (note – you don’t stop at Tvindefossen or Stalheim Hotel)
Ferry from Gudvangen – Flåm on the Naeroyfjord (the true highlight!)
The Gudvangen to Flåm Ferry is incredible and is the absolute best of the best when it comes to getting a true feel for the fjords. I can’t recommend it enough
The Flåm Railway is incredibly famous and well worth it. You see the typical West Norwegian landscape on a 55-minute train ride!
Things to Consider:
The trip takes 10-12 hours and has little time to stop and relax. You are constantly on the move, and photo-stops on the trains and buses aren’t possible.
Besides the Gudvangen – Flåm ferry, you don’t see fjords. You’re up in the mountains
Consider spending a night in Flåm to make the trip more relaxing
Balestrand
Sognefjord in a Nutshell
The Sognefjord in a Nutshell is run by the same team as Norway in a Nutshell (NiN from here on in), but you take a 5.5 hour ferry cruise from Flåm to Bergen instead of taking a train back. Is the Flåm – Bergen Sognefjord cruise worth it? Maybe for the first couple hours. I find long parts of it to be a little boring, and the ferry is a little basic for such a long trip. Still, though, you see most of the Sognefjord and the coast around Bergen.
Train from Myrdal to Flåm (the famous Flåm Railway)
Ferry cruise from Flåm – Bergen
The Good Bits:
Taking the Flåm Railway, of course
You get some time in Flåm before the afternoon cruise
The Flåm to Bergen cruise often has commentary and you do pass some genuinely pretty places
Things to Consider:
While it’s not that much longer than NiN, it can feel it. The train from Bergen to Myrdal is long, and the ferry is even longer.
Consider breaking up the trip with a night in Flåm or Balestrand
Hopperstad Stave Church in Vik
Day cruise to Vik
If you want to see the fjords but feel Flåm is a little too far away or crowded, you can book a day cruise to Vik, a small village on the Sognefjord. You take the Bergen – Flåm ferry but get off in Vik, and get five hours in the village to taste cheese, have soup for lunch, and have a guided tour of the Hopperstad Stave Church, possibly the oldest of the stave churches. This is all included in your ticket.
Morning ferry Bergen – Vik (same ferry that goes to Flåm)
Lunch in Vik followed by cheese tasting
Guided tour of Hopperstad Stave Church
Ferry back to Bergen
The Good Bits:
Hopperstad Stave Church is really worth seeing!
Things to Consider:
You won’t see the dramatic scenery you think of when you hear ‘fjord’. The Sognefjord is wide and the mountains in this area aren’t as steep as what you’d see towards Flåm
It’s the same ferry and the same views back and forth
You can take a train to Voss and then a bus to Vik and save time and money if you want to see the stave church.
Round trip cruise to Flåm
Want to see Flåm and nothing else? Take that 5.5 hour ferry from Bergen to Flåm! You get 2 hours to explore Flåm before turning around and going back.
Honestly? Taking that 5.5 hour ferry two times in one way sounds tedious to me. If you’re thinking about doing this one, spend the night in Flåm or do NiN.
Drive Bergen to Voss and then to Gudvangen via Stalheim Hotel. Then you head from Gudvangen to Flåm
Drive Flåm – Aurland and up to the famous Stegastein Viewpoint
Lunch in Flåm
Ferry Flåm – Gudvangen (the same very scenic ferry I mentioned above)
Get picked up in Gudvangen and drive back to Bergen
The Good Bits
Stalheim Hotel and the view from it is INCREDIBLE. And the road down from Stalheim to Gudvangen, Stalheimskleiva, is a terrifying but excellent highlight
Stegastein Viewpoint is incredible
Lunch in Flåm!
The ferry cruise on the fjords is included
Things to Consider
There’s no Flåm Railway included
Almost all of the driving is inland. You see the fjords on the cruise and at Stegastein
Full day trips: The Hardangerfjord
The Hardangerfjord is the second-longest fjord in Norway and is often regarded as the most beautiful fjord. It’s a popular place in the summer but generally less crowded than the Flåm area, so it’s a good alternative if you want a little more peace and quiet.
Hardangerfjord in a Nutshell
This is the Hardanger equivalent of NiN. While I haven’t done the program, I have been to all these places, and to be honest it looks lovely and more scenic than NiN. You take a fjord cruise that isn’t as famous as the UNESCO Gudvangen-Flåm cruise, but it is still incredibly breathtaking. Also, the scenery here is a little more varied than what you get on NiN.
Much like NiN, it’s a lot of being shuffled around with little time to stop and appreciate nature
Seriously consider breaking the trip up with a night in Eidfjord
NiN operates all year round; Hardangerfjord in a Nutshell only operates during the summer months. There is a winter version of the tour that doesn’t have the Eidfjord – Norheimsund cruise but instead you drive from Eidfjord to Odda (this is a gorgeous drive!) and then to Rosendal, where you take the ferry back to Bergen. This ferry isn’t as scenic. See below. Click here to see the winter program.
Kvinnherad church in Rosendal
Boat cruise Bergen to Rosendal
If you want to see the Hardangerfjord but save some money, you can visit Rosendal with the public ferry for a day. You get 3.5 hours in Rosendal, which has a famous manor house (Barony Rosendal) and the Folgefonna Centre which is a museum about the nearby national park. Still, 3.5 hours is a lot of time and you don’t get to see the park.
What You Do:
2 hour ferry from Bergen to Rosendal
3.5 hours in Rosendal
2 hour ferry back to Bergen
The Good Bits:
The Folgefonna Centre is a great museum about the nature of the region
Things to Consider:
You don’t really see the Hardangerfjord; most of the cruise is along the coast
There isn’t so much to do in Rosendal
Hardanger apple farms
Guided Bus Tour to Hardanger + Lunch and Cider Tasting
Here’s the non-public transport option. You can join a guided bus tour from Bergen to the Hardanger region and get a chance to taste some apple cider. I wouldn’t miss this chance; the region is famous for it. And I personally love it. Bring me back a bottle, please? The bus tours from Bergen have great schedules, but it’s still a lot of driving and being shuffled about.
What You Do:
Drive from Bergen to Norheimsund, stopping at Steindalsfossen on the way
Take a ferry from Tørvikbygd to Jondal
Visit some apple cider farms
Take the ferry back to Tørvikbygd
Drive back to Bergen
Shorter Fjord Tours
If you don’t have the time or funds to take a full-day trip from Bergen, there are some wonderful half-day options available.
Mostraumen
Bergen - Mostraumen Cruise
This is a very popular tour from Bergen. You go along the coast and then through the Osterfjord towards the Mostraumen Strait. Once there, you turn around and come back to Bergen. They have two departures a day in the summer and also operate in winter. The area is scenic and gives you a glimpse into the Norwegian fjords.
This is a different company than the one mentioned above, but it seems like they go to the same place. This tour promotes itself as going all the day to Modalen, a tiny village at the end of the Mofjord (where the Mostraumen Strait is). The area around Modalen was a Viking settlement area and there is a church from 1024 located in the village (though it was rebuilt in 1622)
You can book a RIB boat safari from Bergen, which would be a lot of fun. You don’t see the fjords really; you’re more zig-zagging between islands and skerries on the coast. Still, it sounds like a good tour!
The half-day tour to Skjerjehamn is a nice and popular half-day trip for those with little time, but again it doesn’t take you to the steep fjords. You take a scenic cruise along the coast to Skjerjehamn harbour, where you get to spend a little under an hour walking around before taking the same cruise back to Bergen.
I hope my overview has been of some use to you. I know there are so many companies offering so many variations of trips to places with strange names, but hopefully this makes it a little easier for you.
If you’ve done one of these tours, write what you thought of it in the comments. Similarly, if you know of a great tour I haven’t mentioned please write it below.
I hope you enjoyed my guide on how to get to the fjords from Bergen!
