Sweden

  • Stockholm, Sweden, UNESCO

    Visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Viking Site of Birka

    Visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Birka in Sweden

    Birka, located on the island of Björkö on Lake Mälaren in Sweden, is considered to be one of the most significant Viking Age archaeological sites in Scandinavia. From the 8th to the 10th century, this was a thriving trade hub and one of the earliest urban centres in Sweden.

    Today Birka is on the UNESCO World Heritage List as the site provides an insight into the Viking Age’s social, economic and cultural dynamics. It’s also a popular place for visitors, so this guide is designed to give you practical information on how to reach Birka and what you can see there. It’s a perfect day trip from Stockholm, especially if you are interested in early Viking history.

    In this article...

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    The History of Birka

    Founding as a Trade Centre

    Birka was founded around 750 AD as a trading port by a king or merchants trying to control trade. It is one of the earliest urban settlements in Scandinavia. Birka served as the Baltic link in the Dnieper Trade Route through Ladoga and Novgorod to the Byzantine Empire and the Abbasid Caliphate.

    Birka was also the site of the first known Christian congregation in Sweden, founded in 831 by Saint Ansgar.

    At its peak, it’s believed that around 1000 people lived here.

    As a trading centre, Birka likely exported furs, iron goods, and craft products. Furs were obtained from the Sami people, the Finns, and the people of Northwestern Russia, as well as local trappers. Furs included bear, fox, marten, otter, beaver, and other species. The trade of walrus tusks, amber, and honey is also documented. In return, it imported various materials from Europe and Western Asia. Foreign goods found in Birka include glass and metalware, pottery from Rhineland, clothing and textiles including Chinese silk, Byzantine embroidery, and plaited cords of high quality.

    Abandonment

    The settlement was abandoned in 975 AD, around the same time that Sigtuna was founded as a Christian town some 35km to the northeast. Based on the dating of coins found in the area, the city seems to have died out around 960. The reason for Birka’s decline are disputed. The Baltic island of Gotland is a better position for the Byzantine trade, and it was gaining eminence as a mercantile stronghold. It has also been speculated that Birka was the victim of an enemy assault.

    No texts survive from the area, though Adam of Bremen wrote about the missionary work of Ansgar in Birka as well as the Archbishop Unni, who died at Birka in 936. Saint Ansgar’s work was the first attempt to convert the people of Birka from the Old Norse religion to Christianity.

    Rediscovering Birka

    The exact location of Birka was lost over time, leading to speculation from Swedish historians. In search of Birka, National Antiquarian Johan Hardorph was the first to attempt excavations on the island in the late 17th century.

    In the late 19th century, Hjalmar Stolpe, an entomologist, arrived on the island to study fossilised insects found in amber on the island. He found very large amounts of amber, which is unusual as amber is not usually found in Lake Malaren. He speculated that the island must’ve been used for trade, and this began a series of archaeological excavations. These excavations indicated that a major settlement had been located on the island and a two decade excavation, led by Stolpe, took place.

    The archaeological remains are located in the northern part of the island and span an area of about 7 hectares (17 acres). The remains are both burial sites and buildings, and there is also a hill fort called “Borgen”. The construction technique of the buildlings is still unknown, but the main material was wood.

    On the 15th of June 2022, it was announced that archaeologists from Stockholm University’s Archaeological Research Laboratory had found a Viking Age shipyard in Lake Malaren.

    Why is Birka Significant?

    Birka is a significant site for a few reasons: 
    – Trading Centre: Birka was a bustling marketplace during the Viking period. Here, goods like furs, iron, amber and textiles were traded with regions as far as the Byzantine Empire, the Middle East, and Western Europe
    – Christianisation: Birka was one of the first places in Sweden to adopt Christianity. Therefore, Birka was an early focal point for Christian missionaries, such as Ansgar, who attempted to introduce Christianity to Sweden in the 9th century
    – Archaeological Finds: The site of Birka contains remains of Viking dwellings, graves, and artifacts such as jewellery, tools, and weapons.


    Birka isn’t the only Viking Age site in the area; there is also Hovgården on the neighbouring island of Adelsö. Together, they both make up an archaeological complex which illustrates the elaborate trading networks of Viking Scandinavia and their influence on the subsequent history of Europe. Birka and Hovgården have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993.

    What You Can See at Birka

    Most visitors come to Birka as part of a guided tour from Stockholm city centre. The full day-trip includes a guided walking tour of the site as well as a visit to the museum. Here are some highlights of the island. 

    Birka Museum

    The Birka Museum displays artifacts and reconstructions of Viking Age buildings. It’s important to keep in mind that you won’t see a real city in Birka. Rather, you see ruins and sites that have been excavated. Birka is interesting from an archaeological perspective. The museum doesn’t have the wide variety of objects like what you’d find in the Vikings section at the Swedish History Museum, but it’s still a nice place to visit. The museum provides insight into what the Viking settlement would have looked like in its heyday through various models and dioramas.

    Viking Village Reconstruction

    A recreation of a Viking settlement has been built across from the museum so you can get an idea into what Birka may have looked like from the 8th to the 10th centuries. The reconstruction has a nice, authentic vibe to it and is decorated in a way that they believe the Vikings would’ve decorated.

    There are over 3,000 graves, many still unexcavated, showing diverse burial practices and goods.

    Significant Items

    The Birka dragonhead is a 45mm long decorative object made from a tin alloy. The dragonhead was cast from a soapstone mould. Stylistically similar dragonheads have been discovered around the Baltic and they likely functioned as dress pins.

    10 small silver crosses were found in graves at Birka. It’s believed they were brought by missionaries. 27 graves contained small pendants of Thor’s hammer from around the 10th century.

    Dirham coins have been located all around Scandinavian countries and suggest strong trade relations existed between the medieval Middle East and Northern Europe. A dirham coin was found in the excavation of grave sites at Birka, with Arabic writing and an absence of imagery that would date the coin sometime after the 7th century.

    Fortress Ruins

    Danes attacked Birka, so it’s believed that a fortress was built to protect the settlement. An entry point in a Viking-era defensive wall still stands at Birka. At the top of the hillfort is the Ansar Monument, a cross erected in 1834 in honour of Saint Ansgar.

    Ting Assembly

    A ‘ting’ was a major assembly for chieftains in the region. Tings were huge open-air events, which required plenty of space.

    Religious Sites

    Ansgar’s Cross is a modern cross made to mark the missionary’s efforts to introduce Christianity to the region. It is also believed that one of the first churches to be built in Sweden was built here at Birka.

    It’s recommended to join a guided walking tour in Birka to get a full understanding of the archaeological site, its history, and its findings.

    Once you’re done with the history, you can enjoy one of the several hiking trails on the island.

    Burial Sites

    Over 3,000 grave sites are located on Birka, including both cremations and burials in coffins or chamber graves. Skeletal analysis and the presence of gender-specific jewellery and objects in graves has shown that the majority of the deceased are female. It’s theorised that this is because female grave goods are easy to identify, but male graves without objects are difficult to identify.

    Many graves contain objects such as coins, glass and textiles that came from foreign countries such as Middle East and Eastern Asia.

    Runic Inscriptions

    At the Birka Museum you can see Uppland Runic Inscription 6, which was discovered in several pieces on the island. The 10 pieces have bene placed together and are on display. These fragments were found over a period of 100 years.

    Items from Birka on Display at the Swedish History Museum

    The Swedish History Museum has one of the best exhibitions on the Viking Age in Scandinavia. The museum contains many items from Birka. For example, here you can see ice skates made of animal bone, silver pendants, a necklace, pearls, and glass beads. There is also the skeleton of a child known as the “Birka Girl”. This is a rare lavish burial of a six-year-old girl. Birka’s controversial ‘Allah Ring’ is also on display here.

    Practical Information

    Getting Here

    Getting to Birka is an adventure in itself.

    Boat: The most popular wat to visit Birka is by taking a boat tour from Stockholm. The company Stromma offers daily tours out to Birka and it’s highly recommended to book your ticket in advance. You can view the tour here: https://www.stromma.com/en-se/stockholm/excursions/day-trips/birka-the-viking-city/

    If you don’t want to go on a large public tour, you can take a local boat across run by Kalle Runristare: https://www.hovgarden.com/io4-guide.html#boat-to-birka. He can also be booked as a guide on the island and you can also include him as a guide for Hovgården.

    If you don’t want to take a guided tour, there are also local ferries operating to Birka. The official website for Birka has information on this in detail. 

    Car: You can drive to the mainland near the island and take a ferry or boat to the island.

    Overnighting in Birka

    It is possible to spend the night on Birka in one of their glamping tents. You can learn more here: https://www.stromma.com/en-se/stockholm/excursions/day-trips/glamping-at-birka/

    Best Time of the Year

    Birka is typically open to visitors from late spring to early autumn (May to September). In the summer months there are often Viking reenactments, guided tours, and educational workshops.

     

    Official Website

    I recommend browsing the official Birka website for the best practical information: https://www.birkavikingastaden.se/en/how-to-get-here/

    Final Thoughts on Visiting Birka

    Overall, Birka is the perfect place for fans of the Vikings or those with an interest in archaeology and early history. If you aren’t exactly a Viking person, this may not be the place for you. There aren’t many physical remains of Birka left, so you need to go in with the understanding that you aren’t visiting a Viking village, but rather the site of where one used to be. Still, I think it’s a fascinating place!

    stockholm Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out my Stockholm travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the beautiful Swedish capital. 

  • History, Sweden, Uppsala

    The History of Uppsala – Sweden’s Historic Centre

    The History of Uppsala

    Uppsala, one of Sweden’s oldest and most culturally significant cities, holds a unique place in Scandinavian history. Located about 70km north of Stockholm, Uppsala has been a center for religious, political, and academic life in Sweden for over a thousand years. Known originally as a Viking-era settlement and religious center, it became the heart of Norse pagan worship, with Old Uppsala housing temples dedicated to gods like Thor, Odin, and Frey.

    With the rise of Christianity in the 12th century, Uppsala transformed into an important Christian hub, becoming the seat of the Archbishop and establishing itself as a symbol of Sweden’s emerging national identity. In the 15th century, Uppsala University was founded, making it Scandinavia’s oldest university and solidifying the city’s role as an intellectual and cultural centre. Today, Uppsala blends its rich past with a vibrant modern identity, known for its historical landmarks like the Uppsala Cathedral and its ongoing contributions to education and science. The city remains a fascinating destination to explore the layered history of Sweden, from its Viking roots to its academic and religious heritage.

    I remember on my first-ever trip to Sweden with my then-boyfriend (now husband), I wanted to take a day-trip to Uppsala from Stockholm because of the burial mounds there – I was interested in Norse mythology at the time. 

    If you’re in Stockholm I highly recommend including a day-trip to Uppsala on your journey. It’s very easy to do by train. And before you go, familiarise yourself with the history of Uppsala. Here’s my guide to the history of Uppsala, from the perspective of travelling to the region.

    The History of Uppsala

    Uppsala Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Uppsala, including practical information and things to do. 

    Early History of Uppsala

    The first peoples came to Uppsala around 5,000BC, when the land rose following the melting of the ice from the last ice age. Originally, Uppsala was a bay, but now the area is inland. While the area around Uppsala was mentioned in the mythological Ynglinga Saga, the first historic mention of Uppsala is in the year 98.

    The Early Importance of Uppsala

    During the Iron Age, sometimes called the ‘Vendel Period’ in Swedish history, considerable wealth was built up around Gamla Uppsala from mining and trade. The settlement wasn’t where Uppsala is today, rather it was located where the region “Gamla Uppsala” is today – approximately 5km (3 miles) north of the current Uppsala.

    Gamla Uppsala was a central point for the prehistoric power structure that would later develop into Sweden as a country.

    The site was a former bay, but during the Viking Age as the land was rising, the bay somewhat disappeared. 

    The Royal Mounds

    It was during this period that the Royal Mounds were erected. The mounds are three large barrows located in the area today called Gamla Uppsala (Old Uppsala). According to folklore, the three gods Thor, Odin and Freyr would be at rest at the barrows. Originally there was also a temple here, but it’s believed that it was destroyed at the time when Christianity came to Sweden. The mounds are Sweden’s oldest national symbols. One of the mounds was excavated in the late 19th century and in the mound were remains of a man and animals, probably for food for the journey. Remains of a warriors equipment were also found.

    Medieval Scandinavians considered Gamla Uppsala to be one of the most important locations in Scandinavia. The Danish chronicler Saxo Grammaticus believed Odin resided in Gamla Uppsala. The Icelandic historian Snorri Sturlason had Odin reside at nearby Fornsigtuna, whereas the god Freyr lived at Gamla Uppsala. Saxo Grammaticus adds that Freyr began he human sacrifices at Gamla Uppsala. Sacrifices in Gamla Uppsala were also described by Adam of Bremen at the Uppsala temple. 

    It’s not quite known where the permanent settlement was. It’s believed that from the end of the Viking Age, the site was probably closest to the port. Only during the 12th century is evidence of a city properly traceable. In written documents, Uppsala is mentioned for the first time in Sweden’s oldest manuscript from 1164, 

    The Temple of Uppsala

    The Temple of Uppsala is generally regarded to have been the religious centre of Scandinavia in pre-Christian times. There are somewhat conflicting reports about the temple and its use, for example some historians believe it was used by Christians (some of the documented sacrifices there resemble Christian practices), while others believe it to be pagan. 

    The Temple was eventually destroyed, though it’s not known when. There are different opinions on where the Temple was, though many believe it was close to where Gamla Uppsala Church was built. 

    Gamla Uppsala Archaeological Site

    Today the area generally regarded to be the religious centre of Scandinavia is called the Gamla Uppsala archaeological site. This is where you’ll find the burial mounds as well as large areas of archaeological importnace – for example, up to 3,000 graves are believed to be here. 

    This was an important place during the period of Norse mythology but was also where a major general assembly called “The Thing of All Swedes” took place from prehistoric times until the end of the Viking Age. This is also where the Temple was believed to be. 

    If you are interested in learning more about the discoveries made here, you can visit the Gamla Uppsala Museum (click here for museum website). 

    Christianisation of Uppsala

    It’s believed that Uppsala was the last pre-Christian, Norse Germanic stronghold in Scandinavia. The country’s final Christianisation process took place here.

    At the end of the Viking Age, the Temple of Uppsala was replaced by a Christian Church – probably the Gamle Uppsala Church. 

    In 1164, Gamle Uppsala Church became the seat of the archbishop. A lot of power was moved to Uppsala during the Middle Ages, and the city continued to develop as an important place for Scandinavia. 

    Moving Uppsala South & Uppsala Cathedral

    When the Gamla Uppsala Church was damaged by a fire in 1204, the Chapter sought permission from the Holy See to move the church to a larger site. Pope Alexander IV granted this request in 1258, on the condition that the name Uppsala be maintained.

    So, the city was moved south. The original settlement was renamed “Gamla Uppsala” (Old Uppsala), while the new town was called Uppsala. The move officially took place in 1273, the same year that Uppsala Cathedral began. 

    Uppsala Cathedral

    Uppsala Cathedral dates to the late 13th century and, at a height of 118 metres, is the tallest cathedral in the Nordic countries. The cathedral was originally built under Roman Catholicism and was used as a coronation church for a long time. Much of the cathedral was redesigned after the fire of 1702 and after a renovation in the 1880s. 

    It is possible to visit Uppsala Cathedral. 

    Uppsala was fortified in the 14th century when the Archbishops Castle was built. The Castle is mentioned in the battles of 1497 and 1521 (mentioned below), and at the end of the War of Liberation, King Gustav restored the castle and held a coronation party there. 

    The castle caught fire in 1543 and was not restored. When the University House was built in 1879, the ruins of the castle were uncovered but no archaeological survey was carried out. 

    Uppsala University

    On the 27th of February 1477, Uppsala University was founded through a bull by Pope Sixtus IV. It became the first university int he Nordic region and the northernmost university in the world at the time.

    Education was divided into four faculties: The Faculty of Philosophy, Medicine, Law and Theology. Teaching revolved around scholastic philosophy inspired by the ancient philosopher Aristotle. 

    Uppsala University

    You can view the University’s historic collections at the Gustavianum building. 

    (click here for website)

    The Vasa Period & the Reformation (16th Century)

    While Gustav Vasa’s reign was generally regard as good for the development of Stockholm (read my separate overview of the history of Stockholm here), it was not good for Uppsala.

    With the Reformation, the university’s activities came to be severely limited. The university was Catholic, and that was not something that was appreciated by Gustav Vasa and all the new Lutherans. After the Reformation, teaching practically died out after the mid-16th century. The Reformation also meant that both power and capital were moved from the church in Uppsala to the king in Stockholm.

    In 1543, a large city fire in Uppsala destroyed St. Peter’s Church, the Franciscan Convent, and the Archbishop’s Castle, with none of them being rebuilt later.

    In 1539, the King had Uppsala Castle built in the city. The castle was later remodelled after a fire in 1572 and was expanded into a Renaissance palace. One of its most important tasks was to host the coronation festivities after the ceremony in the cathedral.

    Sweden's Century of Power (17th Century)

    In Sweden, the 17th century was a period of power and domination in Europe. For Uppsala, the city became the kingdom’s secondary capital as it was the seat of the archbishop, the Swedish Academy, and the University.

    The Lutheran King Gustav II Adolf re-established the Uppsala University as he wanted to develop Sweden into an intellectual country.

    He added subjects like political science and history. In 1622, a new university building called the Gustavianum was built (this is where the University museum is today).

    In 1624, Gustav II Adolf donated the Gustavian heritage – over 400 farms and crofts – to the university. Their value today is estimated at over 2 billion SEK.

    In 1643, the medieval city was largely demolished and rebuilt based off plans by Anders Torstensson, who designed the city in a wide grid pattern. The city’s main meeting place was moved from The Old Square to Stora Torget. The city was built within an area of 800mx1200m and was not expanded until the 19th century. The area around the cathedral escaped the city plan and demolition, so it is still characterised by an irregular street pattern.

    The Celsius House is one of the few medieval houses in the eastern city that survived demolition and doesn’t stand parallel to other houses along the pedestrian street.

    The City Fire of 1702

    One of the most important events in Uppsala’s history is the city fire on 16 May 1702. The fire started near the current Old Square. Most of Uppsala was on the west side of the river, but it had been dry for a long time and the fire was able to spread quickly in a strong wind over the wooden bridges.

    Among the damaged buildings were Uppsala Cathedral, which was almost completely burned and could not be used again until 1707. Uppsala Castle was also severely damaged and never completely rebuilt – the castle looks the same today as it did after reconstruction. Another damaged building was one of the university’s main buildings, the Academia Carolina, which was so badly damaged that it was not rebuilt.

    With the city fire, Uppsala lost its position as the kingdom’s second city and coronation city, as Ulrika Eleonora became the last Swedish monarch to be crowned here in 1719.

    The Enlightenment (18th Century)

    As an academic city, Uppsala was strongly influenced by the ideas of the Enlightenment. During the 18th century, reason and science were celebrated and during the 1720s Uppsala and the university began to flourish.

    New institutions for subjects such as chemistry, physics and economics were established.

    During this period, many of the most prominent figures of the Swedish enlightenment began to live and work in the city. Carl von Linne began mapping and systemising the plant world. Anders Celsius created Sweden’s first proper observatory in 1741, where astronomical and meteorological observations were regularly carried out.

    Romanticism & Industrialisation (19th Century)

    During the Romantic period, strong Scandinavian currents arose at universities around the Nordics. The first Scandinavian student meeting was held in 1843 in Uppsala and students from the universities in Copenhagen, Kristiania (Oslo) and Lund came to the city. In order to recognise each other at student meetings, it was decided that students should wear identical caps, which became the model for today’s student caps.

    In 1870, women gained access to the university and in 1872 Betty Pettersson became the first female student to be enrolled at a Swedish university.

    Population growth took off in the middle of the 19th century thanks to industrialisation.

    Wars & Postwar Period (20th Century)

    As Sweden was neutral during both World Wars, the city was left in tact and not directly impacted.

    Uppsala’s post-war history is characterised by expansion. Extensive parts of central Uppsala were demolished and rebuilt in a more functionalist style of architecture. Neoclassical houses from the late 19th century were largely demolished, while older houses were preserved.

    Uppsala also had strong population growth, with the municipality growing from 75,000 in 1940 to 156,000 in 1990.

    Modern Times (21st Century)

    As Sweden was neutral during both World Wars, the city was left in tact and not directly impacted.

    Uppsala’s post-war history is characterised by expansion. Extensive parts of central Uppsala were demolished and rebuilt in a more functionalist style of architecture. Neoclassical houses from the late 19th century were largely demolished, while older houses were preserved.

    Uppsala also had strong population growth, with the municipality growing from 75,000 in 1940 to 156,000 in 1990.

    Uppsala Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Uppsala, including practical information and things to do. 

  • Stockholm, Sweden

    Riddarholmen Church: Stockholm’s Oldest Building

    Riddarholmen Church: Stockholm’s Oldest Building

    Stockholm is growing on me. It is, after all, probably the best-preserved of the Scandinavian capitals. It avoided bombardments and devastating fires, unlike Copenhagen, and it is significantly older than Oslo. Also, Sweden was neutral during World War II, protecting it from bombing or sabotage attacks. When I first visited Stockholm I found it too crowded, and while that is still true every visit, I find new appreciations for the city now. One of those is Riddarholmen Church, arguably my favourite historic building in the city.

    Located on the island of Riddarholmen, which is just across a small bridge from Gamla Stan, this church covers almost 1,000 years of history from Stockholm’s founding in 1252 right through to the present day. Centuries old traditions survive to the present day and the conversion of the church into a historic site is fantastic. It is one of the best-presented historic churches I’ve been in, with interesting exhibitions, information boards everywhere, and easy to follow maps. Riddarholmen Church is also the oldest preserved building with the oldest brick walls above ground, as well as being Stockholm’s only preserved monastery church.

    Here is an overview of the historic importance of Riddarholmen Church as well as some highlights as to what you can see there.

    In this article...

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Historic Context

    The Greyfriars Monastery

    The history of the church begins with the Greyfriars Monastery. Soon after entering the church, you will see a large information sign about them, complete with relics found during restorations as well as images of what the church likely looked like during the time of the Greyfriars.

    Riddarholmen Church is part of the former medieval Greyfriars Monastery, making it one of the oldest buildings in Stockholm as the monastery was established here in the late 13th century. It is not known when the church was completed, but historians believe it was around the early 14th century. The church was much smaller, of course. The floorplan had two naves – common for monastic churches of the mendicant orders of Scandinavia and Northern Germany during the Middle Ages. There was also no tower.

    Side note – the Greyfriars is a Scandinavian term for the Franciscans. The Franciscan priory was established in Italy in the early 13th century by Francis of Assisi and came to Sweden in the 1220s. The ‘Greyfriars’ term came because of their grey clothing.

    When Riddarholmen Church was completed, it was made almost entirely out of brick. This was unusual in Sweden. It has been thought that the ‘lavishness’ of the church is because Magnus Ladulås wanted to be buried there. He was the Swedish King in the late 13th century. He was the son of Birger Jarl, who founded Stockholm in 1252, and wasn’t the heir – his older brother Valdemar was. After Birger’s death, the two brothers came into conflict and, with the help of the Danes, Magnus ousted his brother and became King. There is nothing particularly notable or famous about his reign; he likely gave funding to the church and is why he is buried there. Or is he? More on that later.

    What the church probably looked like during the monastery time

    While the monks led a very simple life, they were also very cultured. The first book printed in Sweden was produced by the Greyfriars in 1483.

    Not much remains of the monastery today; some of the walled-up openings towards the abbey garden can be seen in the form of niches with pointed arches in the southern wall. Medieval painting has also been found in the vaults.

    The Reformation

    Of course, the Reformation meant huge changes for the monastery. The monastery was closed and the church became Lutheran. Around this time, its role shifted and it became known as the Royal burial church of the Swedish monarchs and for the Seraphim Order. The church became associated with modern nobility in Sweden.

    Riddarholmen Church was also expanded after the Reformation, with the royal tombs being added and the chancel being designed in the Dutch Renaissance style. The tower was added after the Reformation, too.

    1835 Fire

    In 1835, Riddarholmen Church had its largest and most impactful fire. The fire was started by a lightning strike on the 28th of July 1835 and lasted for three days. During this time, the tower spire collapsed as the entire upper part of the church burned. Thankfully, they were able to prevent the fire from entering the interior of the church.

    Restoration & Current Appearance

    The rebuilding of the church took three years. The most impactful part of the reconstruction was the cast iron spire, designed in the Neo-Gothic style and now an icon of the Stockholm skyline.

    The last addition to the church was in 1860, when the Bernadotte tomb choir was built.

    During that time, Riddarholmen Church became a three-nave church built in red brick. The church was originally built in the Gothic style, but the tombs are in various styles, including Rococo and Renaissance. It bears some similarities to Roskilde Cathedral in Denmark in that regard.

    What to see Inside the Church

    What's With all the Coats of Arms?

    One of the most unique parts of the church are all the coats of arms. It is probably the first thing you’ll recognise when you visit the church. Honestly, when I first visited the church I thought they were the coats of arms of the royal family, but I was very wrong.

    The coats of arms are for the knights of the Royal Order of the Seraphim. This is a Swedish royal order of chivalry created by King Frederick I on the 23rd of February 1743. Originally, the knights were supposed to supervise with the hospitals and mental asylums in Sweden, in particular the Seraphim hospital (the major hospital in Stockholm until it closed in 1980). This requirement eventually died out and today it is more a symbolic order.

    On the death of one of the knights, their coat of arms is put up and the two dates on the plaque indicate when they received the Order and on the day of their death. When they die, the bells of Riddarholmen Church ring the special Serephim chimes.

    The Royal Church & Tombs

    Riddarholmen Church is today the final resting place of most Swedish monarchs. Every monarch from Gustavus Adolphus (died 1632) to Gustaf V (died 195) are entombed here. The earlier monarchs Magnus (died 129) and Charles VIII are also buried here. There is only one exception: Queen Christina is buried within St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The Vasa dynasty were also not buried here. Queen Christina is fascinating; she refused to become Lutheran so gave up her title! The Vasa family was also not buried here.

    In total, 15 monarchs are buried at the church and are divided into three tombs: The Gustavian, the Karolinska, and the Bernadotte. All three are clearly marked with information boards and numbered maps showing who is buried where.

    The Gustavian burial chancel was built for King Gustav II Adolf (1594-1632). Gustav designed it himself before his death, but it was constructed after his death.

    The Medieval Tombs

    In the chancel (from the 13th century) are two sarcophagus-like tomb monuments for Magnus Ladulås as well as King Karl Knuttson, who died in 1470. The tombstones were made in the 1570s and are designed as effigies for the two kings. They were originally painted in bright colours but only traces of that remain today.

    The northern burial was thought to be Magnus, but in 2011 an analysis of the skeletons showed that it was far too young to be him. So, the mystery of Magnus’ grave remains.

    Side note – the gilding of the ribs in the chancel has no counterpart in Sweden and was probably paid for by a King.

    Royal Tombs

    There are three chapels where the royal family are buried. The first, and oldest one, is the Gustavian chapel. The Gustavian Chapel was built for King Gustav II Adolf (1594-1632). He designed it himself before his death, but construction only took place after he died. His sarcophagus is made of dark marble from Italy. There are also another 20 royals buried here. Those who died in the 17th century are in pewter coffins, which the others are mostly in oak coffins.

    The Karolinska chapel is the distinctive grey sandstone building. The sandstone comes from Gotland. In the black marble sarcophagus is Charles XII (1682-1718). Queen Ulrika Eleonora (1688-1741) and her husband King Fredrik I (1676-1751) rest in green charcoal marble sarcophagi. In the crypt are several kings with their respective consorts.

    The Bernadotte chapel is the last addition to the church. Here you can see King Karl XIV Johan’s sarcophagus. It is made of red garberg granite. Queen Desideria’s (1777-1860) sarcophagus is made of green charcoal marble and is in front of Karl Johan. In 2021 the walls were resealed, and during excavations archaeologists found 50 skeletons and a bridal crown from the 14th – 16th centuries.

    Non-Royal Chapels

    There are a large number of consorts, princes and princesses buried in the church.

    Riddarholmen Church contains five non-royal chapels, which were erected during the 17th century by various noble families. I won’t go through all of them, just some of the more interesting ones. I’ve always found the relationship between the Swedish monarchy and the Swedish noble families very interesting. Compared to the other Scandinavian countries (Denmark), the Swedish noble families have always had much more influence on the governing of the country, and I think this is well represented by the fact they are buried alongside the Swedish royals with barely any separation between graves.

    The Torstenson burial chapel was built in 1651 for field lord Lennart Torstenson. He was an important part of the Swedish military and became governor of Vastergotland. He is considered to be one of the most successful generals of his time, as well as one of Sweden’s greatest of all time.

    The Lewenhaupt chapel was built in 1654 for Gustaf Adolf Lewenhaupt and Carl Mauritz Lewenhaupt. They are beautiful wrought iron grilles. Both men were Swedish counts and field marshals and were also brothers. Many of their descendants are buried here too.

    Other Graves & Tombstones

    There are some other unique tombs in the church. In the middle of the choir is the Färlastenen from the 14th century. It was intended for a member of the medieval Farla family. According to legend, the stone belongs to the knight Karl Nilsson. The tombstone was found during a restoration in the early 20th century and there’s nothing that proves that Karl was a knight or belonged to the Farla family.

    North of the grave that was thought to be Magnus Ladulås are the remains of marshal Torgils Knutsson. After his execution in 1306, he was buried at the execution site but his body was later moved to Riddarholmen. His tomb was destroyed in the 17th century during the construction of the Karolinska tomb and it was lost for more than two centuries. It was found in the 1920s during a restoration in three parts. Torgils was a knight, Swedish councillor and marshal.

    Lastly, you will see the grave of Christ inside the church. This is one of the churches oldest objects: a wooden sculpture of Christ dating from around 1400. During the Middle Ages, it was used in the Passion Play at easter. This play told stories about the Bible; for the sculpture, it was wrapped up, laid in a chest, and the lid was closed. Two guards stood beside it, just like in the Bible, and in the morning, when the congregation came to church, the sculpture was removed. So, when the grave was opened, it was empty.

    The Passion Play was forbidden after the Reformation and most of those sculptures disappeared in Sweden. This one was moved to the Royal Armoury and over time lost its feet, arms, and half of its head. It also faded and became grimy. It was eventually left in the church and is believed to have been damaged by the 1835 fire. Today, only four remain and the one at Riddarholmen is the oldest.

    Visiting Riddarholmen Today

    Today the church is only used for burial and commemorative purposes.

    The church is open as an attraction during summer. You can view the opening hours by clicking here.

    It is possible to buy a ticket when visiting the Swedish Royal Palace; they are sold as a combo ticket. It is possible to pre-order tickets online.

    Be sure to check the annual programme of concerts so you can attend one.

    All of the chapels have information signs out the front in Swedish and English, making it easy to follow along and get a small insight into the importance of each person. For the royal burial vaults, there are numbered maps indicating who is buried where.

    The ground is uneven because of all the tombstones; these were placed inside the church by those who could afford to pay for the space.

    Thanks for Reading!

    I hope you found this information about Riddarholmen Church useful, as well as the fascinating history behind the church!

    Have you visited the church or have any questions? Let me know in the comments.

    Stockholm Travel Guide
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  • Stockholm, Sweden, Walking Guides

    A Self-Guided Walk Around Södermalm

    A Self-Guided Walk Around Södermalm

    I’ve never been a huge fan of Stockholm. I’ve always found it too big and crowded for my liking. However, every time I visit I find myself liking it a little bit more. Back in February of this year I went to Stockholm to do some research and met up with one of my friends, who lives in Södermalm. She took me on a walk around the neighbourhood and I fell in love. The neighbourhood doesn’t get the crowds that Gamla Stan does, and Södermalm has just as much history. 

    Södermalm is where you can find beautiful churches, street art, and some of the only remaining wooden buildings in central Stockholm. Södermalm is also popularly nicknamed ‘Sofo’ has it has become a gentrified, hipster neighbourhood. 

    So, if you want to see Stockholm beyond the ‘touristy’ areas, I strongly recommend this walk. 

    Here’s my self-guided walk to Södermalm. 

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    Södermalm, a brief history.

    Södermalm is one of the oldest places in Stockholm with roots back to the 13th century, when the city was founded. However, compared to Gamla Stan, which is the oldest settlement in Stockholm and was for the merchants, Södermalm was a workers neighbourhood with factories and accommodation for the lower-middle class. Its tasks involved providing pasture for the citizens cattle but also shipyards and manufacturing businesses. 

    When Stockholm began to experience a huge population boom in the 16th century, Södermalm and Norrmalm (where the central station and shopping area is today) were incorporated into Stockholm and Södermalm was developed. King Gustav II Adolf was aware of the urban ideals of the Renaissance style and had Södermalm laid out in an organised grid style. 

    During the industrialisation of the 19th century, Södermalm became an urbanised, working-class neighbourhood. 

    After World War II, Norrmalm was torn down to make way for modern concrete and glass buildings. Södermalm avoided this redevelopment and remains largely preserved with many of the old buildings still standing. 

    Södermalm today

    Today around 130,000 people live here. Södermalm is considered to be a gentrified neighbourhood with significant shopping and expensive housing. 

    Södermalm Self-Guided Walk

    Note that I have used images from three separate test walks I did – snow in February, sun in July, and rain in October. 

    Begin: Hilton Slussen or Slussen Metro Station

    Today around 130,000 people live here. Södermalm is considered to be a gentrified neighbourhood with significant shopping and expensive housing. 

    Stockholm City Museum

    The Stockholm City Museum is located by the Slussen metro stop. It is a museum that collects, documents, and presents material about Stockholm’s history. 

    The building is the old Södra Stadshuset, or the Södra City Hall, which was built in 1663 based on drawings by city architect Nicodemus Tessin. The building was supposed to be a centre for merchants, but became a town hall instead. 

    Götgatan

    Götgatan was laid out during the new planning regulations in the 1640s. ‘Götgatan’ means ‘the street lead leads to Gotaland’, Gotaland being a region in the south of Sweden. 

    Götgatan used to be one of Stockholm’s major cinema streets. A total of 10 cinemas were located here, though not at the same time.

    The first cinema was a silent cinema from 1909. Today only two cinemas remain; Victoria (opened 1936) and Gota Lejon (opened 1928).

    Part of the street is pedestrianised. The goal is to give pedestrians and cyclists more space to create a safer, more vibrant environment.

    Dutch Embassy

    The building is an example of a ‘Målmgarder’. This word refers to types of buildings built during the 17th and 18th centuries as manor-like houses used as summer or leisure houses for the nobility and middle class. They were also gardens, where everything including exotic plants and medicinal herbs were grown. The gardens often had a gazebo for outdoor parties. There are only 38 preserved ‘Målmgarder’ left in Stockholm, and most of them are in Södermalm.

    Mosebacke Torg

    We have made it to Mosebacke Torg, or the Mosebacke Square. The square was laid out after a fire in 1857, when many of the properties here burned to the ground. 

    The area of Mosebacke has always been associated with entertainment, with inns being built in the 18th century for concerts. Södra Teatern is located here and is a popular theatre in Stockholm. 

    Mosebacke Water Tower

    The Mosebacke Water Tower was a water reservoir. It was designed by architect Ferdinand Boberg and completed in 1896.

    The purpose of the tower was to increase the water pressure for Katarinaberget’s (Katarina Hill – where we are now) higher buildings in relation to the general low-pressure network. The tower is clad with red brick from Helsingborg, a city in the southwest of Sweden.

    Underneath it is the pump house with a coat of arms of St. Erik at the entrance. The tower was taken out of use in 1960. Only the facility under the tower functions as a pumping station, while the tower has been converted from a machinist’s residence to a private residence.

    Svartensgatan

    The streets oldest name is Fiskaregatan from 1646, but it got its name Svartens gatan in the 1840s. The origin of the name is not completely clear but could come from the church attendant in Katarina Church Johan Anersson Schwart who died in 1674.

    The street has several important buildings. There are eight well-preserved houses from the 18th and 19th centuries.

    Os Gemeo’s Mural

    The work is by the twin brothers from Brazil called Otavio and Gustavo Pandolfo – their artist name is Os Gemeos. The painting is subject to planning permission and according to the decision from June 2017 it may remain for a maximum of five years. After that, the wall will be resorted by being painted over with a neutral tone.

    Svartensgatan 32 & 34

    Number 32 is the red building, while number 34 is the yellow one. These are two residential buildings from the 18th century. The age of the stone house is unclear, while the wooden house was probably built shortly after the Katarina fire of 1723 and before 1736 when the city banned wooden houses.

    The fire of 1723 destroyed 500 buildings (448 of them were wooden) in central Södermalm and badly damaged the Katarina Church. The fire began in a mill. After the fire, they immediately began repairing the church. All the houses in the surrounding area were destroyed. Despite the introduction of a wooden building ban in 1736, the houses on Master Mikaels gata were built of wood.

    Drottningen Quarter

    Drottningen 5 is a culturally valuable property because it was built in the mid 18th century as an apartment building. The quarter ‘Drottningen’ (everything to our left) is important because a glass factory used to be here in the 1660s and employed around 40 people. Drottningen is referred to as the ‘glassworks quarter’ and, as you can tell, it was not regulated during the city planning in 1641 so it has many stairs and crooked roads.

    Katarina Church

    The Katarina Church was first completed in 1695 but unfortunately has been destroyed twice by fire. 

    The church was first destroyed by fire in 1723, and architect Goran Josuae Adelcrantz was tasked with rebuilding the church. The church got a larger tower and the facade was painted yellow; previously it was painted red. 

    The church burned for the second time on the 17th of May 1990. The tower collapsed and went through the church vault. The only parts that survived was the ceiling and the outer walls. Thankfully, the church silver and the valuable textiles were saved. 

    Investigations showed that an electrical fault had caused the fire. Although the church was insured, a lot of fundraising was done to ensure the church could be completed. The reconstruction was done with the same technology and material used on the 17th century church. 

    During the 1670s, the famous Katarina witch trial took place here. It is one of the most famous witch trials in Sweden. The trial resulted in eight people being executed for witchcraft, one person committing suicide in prison, and two more people sentenced to death.

    The church is built according to a Greek cross plan with the tower centrally located. When it opened in the 17th century, it became the first central church in Sweden. A chapel has been on the site since the 1300s. 

    Drottningen 4

    The building is located at Högbergsgatan 14. It was constructed in stages in the 1750s and 1830s. The oldest part was built for the tower keeper in the Katarina Church, Sven Grafman. When master shoemaker Jonas Wilhelm Gusten owned the building in the 1750s, he had it extended to the west. In 1838, the building had acquired its current appearance.

    Mäster Mikaels Gata

    Mäster Mikaels gata is one of the best-preserved streets showcasing old Stockholm. The street name is new; when the main road Renstiernas gata was blown into a deep ditch at the beginning of the 20th century, the then Fjällgatan was divided into two. The eastern part kept its name, while the western part became Master Mikaels gata.

    Mikael was Stockholm’s executioner, who worked at the nearby gallows on Stigberget. He lived in this quarter. “Master” was a common title for an executioner. 

    He is one of the few executioners to get the job without committing any crime. A common way of recruiting executioners was to pardon a man condemned to death on the condition they put on the master’s hood. He was in charge of the ‘Rackare’, the executioner’s servant. The servants job was to set the place for the execution, picked up the dead and buried them in gallows hill.

    Mikael broke the law when he let a criminal man live in his house. He was sentenced for this but continued to associate with the man. On one fateful occasion, they drank too much brandy and had a falling out. It ended with the man lying dead in the doorway. Mäster Mikael was beheaded by his successor.

    This area was destroyed during the fire of 1723. Even though building in wooden houses was banned, the houses that line Mäster Mikaels gata were built of wood. They were completed in 1729. The houses were all bought by Stockholm at the turn of the century in 1900. They are now part of a so-called reserve that is owned and managed by AB Stadsholmen.

    Fjällgatan 16

    Fjällgatan 16 is Europe’s smallest theatre. Called ‘Teater Dur & Moll’ (Theatre Major and Minor), it was established by Gen Hedberg who wanted to set up a small theatre for adults. The theatre opened in 1996 and Gen Hedberg is still the theatre director and sole actor. The theatre is 34 square metres and can accommodate 20 people. The building is from the 1720s.

    Viewpoint over Stockholm

    We have now made it to the most famous viewpoint in Stockholm. From here you can see Gamla Stan (to your left) and Djurgården (to your right). On the far left you’ll see Slussen; where we began the walk. 

    Fjällgatan 40

    The wooden house here was built shortly after the major fire of 1723. The house was lived in by a number of merchants and skippers before being abandoned in the 1980s since it had no electricity or running water. It has since been carefully restored by AB Stadsholmen.

    Ersta Sjukhus

    Ersta Sjukhus (First Hospital) began operations in 1864. It was partly a hospital for the poor and partly the first nursing school in Sweden. It was expanded towards the end of the 19th century. A new hospital is currently under construction south of the old one. Demolition and excavation work began in 2020.

    Sågargatan

    This street is first mentioned in history in 1781, and the name probably comes from the sawyers who sawed planks and woods for the shipbuilding industry. They lived in this area. The street was originally a steep hill that was widened and lowered in the early 20th century. The red houses indicate how high the road used to be. 

    Skeppargränd

    Skeppargränd is also lined with these cultural and historical houses that are managed by AB Stadsholmen. Most of the houses here were built in the 1720s on plots that were laid out in the 1680s.

    Bondegatan

    We are now crossing Bondegatan, which has been here since the middle of the 17th century. It refers to the transport companies that had established their businesses on this street. “Bonde” means farmer, which may refer to the type of people who lived here. If you want to explore this street further, there are some heritage-listed red wooden houses on this street as well (go to number 44).

    Vita Bergen

    Vita Bergen, or the White Mountains, is the name of the hilly park where the church stands today. The name probably derives from the light colour of the bedrock on the previously bare mountain. During the 18th century, poor people who worked in the textile factories settled on the rugged terrain of the mountains. August Strindberg described the area as “the city’s poorest and most destitute area” in the novel Röda rummet from 1879.

    Many of the houses were demolished in the early 20th century to make way for the Sofia Church and the establishment of the park. Some of the old wooden houses remain, and we’ll see them a little later.

    Sofia Kyrka

    The church was designed by architect Gustaf Hermansson after an architectural competition in 1899. The building is in the Rhindeland transitional Romanesque style. King Oscar II laid the foundation stone on the 15th of May 1903 and four years later the church was inaugurated. It is named after Oscar’s wife, Queen Sofia.

    The church is a central church from which four cross arms of equal length extend out. In the eastern transept is the chancel, while in the western transept is the main entrance. The walls are made of light red granite with elements of darker sandstone.

    Mäster Pers grand

    The name is fairly modern. It was established in 1928 and is named after Master Peder, the first vicar of the Katarina parish. In this area are around twenty wooden houses from the 18th and 19th centuries, and these were the lower classes because of the rugged terrain.

    Mäster Pers grand 1 was the last one to be modernised. A man called Alrik Sundberg had lived here since 1928 and did just find without electricity, water or a sewerage system. Water was fetched from a nearby pump. After his death, AB Stadsholmen modernised the building.

    Bergsprängargränd

    The name comes from 1806 and means ‘rock blaster’, referring to the profession of the person who lived on this street. Otherwise, mainly shipyard and port workers lived here. They had large families, and these wooden houses were among the most dilapidated and poor in Södermalm. For example, in 1897, two dock worker families consisting of four adults and two children lived in a one-room cottage that had a floor area of 12m2 and a roof height of 1.8 metres.

    SoFo

    The area here is known as SoFo (the area south of Folkungagatan) and it is today regarded as the trendiest neighbourhood in Stockholm. You can find a guide to SoFo and all the trendy shops, cafes and restaurants via the link sofo-stockholm.se

    As we’ve seen on this walk, Södermalm was once known as the ‘slum’ area of Stockholm with cramped, dilapidated wooden houses built on rugged, undesirable terrain. However, today Södermalm is known as the home of bohemian, alternative culture.

     The growing demand for housing in Stockholm, as well as the increased gentrification of Stockholm’s inner city neighbourhoods, has driven up prices in Södermalm, making it one of the most expensive neighbourhoods in the city. What was once a working-class neighbourhood is now a neighbourhood for the privileged.

    Södermannagatan

    This street is part of the SoFo area and has lots of cafes, second-hand shops, and fashion stores. At the end of the street, we’ll see the wooden building I mentioned back at Bondegatan. These houses were built before 1748.

    The neighbourhood has the name Bonde because of the farmers who, in connection with their visit to Stockholm would use these houses as accommodation.  

    End of the walk!

    I hope you enjoyed this walk in Sodermalm through its past and present. 

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  • Stockholm, Sweden

    Stockholm City Hall: Why it’s Worth a Visit

    Stockholm City Hall: Why it’s Worth a Visit

    I must admit, the first time I heard I was going to be taking people to Stockholm City Hall, I was a little bored by the idea. For many of us, the city hall’s are nothing to write home about. These are government buildings – how exciting can they be?

    Well, I was very wrong!

    In Scandinavia, so much care and detail is put into the city hall’s. These are impressive buildings that tell the history of their city in such detail. Oslo’s city hall is excellent, but Stockholm’s city hall is the clear winner out of all the countries.

    While you have to take a guided tour inside the city hall (compared to Oslo, which has free entry), it is well worth allocating the time on your trip to Stockholm to join one of the tours.

    Stockholm City Hall is famous for its architecture and large, grand ceremonial halls, but it is also the location of the Nobel Prize banquet.

    Here’s a little about Stockholm City Hall.

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    Construction of City Hall

    The decision to build a new city hall was made in 1907. An architectural competition was held, and after several rounds Ragnar Östberg was the winner. His opponent, Carl Westman, got the job of building the Stockholm Court House instead. Östberg didn’t stick to his original plans so much; he kept changing the design and even incorporated elements from Westman’s drafts. Most importantly, it was Westman’s idea to have the tower. Östberg added the lantern on the top of the tower with the three crowns, which is the Swedish coat-of-arms.

    Construction of the city hall took twelve years (1911-1923) and almost all the materials were sourced from Sweden. Nearly eight million bricks were used in the building.

    Stockholm City Hall was inaugurated on the 23rd of June 1923, exactly 400 years after Gustav Vasa’s arrival in Stockholm.

    Architectural Style

    Stockholm City Hall is designed in the National Romantic style and is considered the country’s leading example in the style. Inside, there are various architectural styles, most notably Venetian Gothic architecture, as seen in the turrets, decorated balconies, and statues.

    Interior Highlights

    The most famous room is the Golden Hall. Its name comes from the 18 million tiles, mostly golden, that make up the mosaics around the room. The mosaics tell the story of the history of Sweden, including the Stockholm Bloodbath, Gustav Vasa’s reign, and so on. At the end of the hall is the main attraction – the Queen of Lake Malaren – who is watching over the room carefully. On either side of her are buildings representing the east and the west – including the Hagia Sophia and the Eiffel Tower, amongst other buildings. The mosaics were hugely unpopular when they were completed.

    The mosaics were not well planned; pay attention to the mosaics close to the roof. Sweden’s patron saint Erik has lost his head due to some bad mosaic planning.

    Outside City Hall

    Take the time to explore around the city hall. Wander through the Stadshusparken, a beautiful promenade along the waterfront. You get some excellent views out to Gamla Stan and Riddarholmen from here.

    Be Sure Not to Miss This!

    This was shown to be on one of the guided tours I attended only because there was a fire alarm in the city hall and the guide had to distract us for fifteen minutes while we waited to go in. Normally, it would not be shown on the guided tour. Around the corner from city hall is the cenotaph of Birger Jarl, the man who founded Stockholm. Since the city hall is rich in details that are symbolically linked to Stockholm’s history, of course they had to include a mock grave for Birger Jarl. The style is that of a sarcophagus with Birger in full knight’s armour and his feet directed towards Riddarholmen. Underneath is a fictional burial vault. The idea was that his remains would be transferred from where he is buried, at the monastery church in Varnhem, to the grave, but Varnhem’s city council said no. It is truly a surreal sight.

    Nobel Prize Ceremony

    Why is the Nobel Prize awarded in Sweden? Well, Alfred Nobel was Swedish. When he died in 1896, his will stated that he bequeathed his assets to establish the five prizes that became known as the Nobel Prize.

    The ceremony takes place every 10th of December, which is the anniversary of Nobel’s death. The Prizes are awarded in the Stockholm Concert Hall, and the City Hall is where the banquet and ‘after party’ takes place. The banquet takes place in the Blue Hall, while the Golden Hall is used as the dance floor.

    The Nobel Peace Prize is awarded in Oslo, which will be explained in another article.

    Practical Information

    Finding Stockholm City Hall

    The distinctive city hall sits on the eastern tip of Kungsholmen Island, facing the islands of Riddarholmen and Sodermalm. The location is important and provided inspiration to the building, namely the juxtaposition of city architecture and water that represents a central feature of Stockholm’s cityscape as a hall.

    Getting Here

    Bus number 3 stops right outside the city hall.

    To walk, it takes about 10 minutes from central station or 15 minutes from Riddarholmen Church and Gamla Stan.

    There is no parking available outside the city hall (but you shouldn’t be driving in Stockholm city centre anyway). It can get a little crowded with tour buses out the front.

    Eating

    Several small cafes are around the city hall. Inside the city hall is “Stadshuskallaren” (City Hall Cellar), a Swedish restaurant.

    Restrooms

    Free, inside city hall. Only accessible with the guided tour.

    Acessibility

    There are stairs between the floors, but elevators are also hidden around the city hall and require a staff member to come with you.

    Shop

    The shop features souvenirs that commemorate City Hall & Stockholm.

    Guided Tours

    It is only possible to access Stockholm City Hall on a guided tour. Guided tours in English are held daily, but keep in mind that they can be cancelled at short notice due to events. Also, some parts of the hall are closed on certain days of the year. For example, on Saturdays, one of the rooms is closed because of the weddings that take place.

    The tour lasts around 45 minutes and costs 130 SEK for an adult. All the information about the tours can be found on the city hall website.

    The tower is open from May to September, and you can climb up the tower, getting a fantastic view of the city.

    To know when the guided tours are, visit the city hall’s website: https://cityhall.stockholm/visit-the-city-hall/

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  • Stockholm, Sweden, Walking Guides

    A Historic Walk around Gamla Stan in Stockholm

    A Historic Walk around Gamla Stan in Stockholm

    Welcome to my Gamla Stan self-guided walking tour. Gamla Stan is one of the best-preserved old towns in Europe. Located on a small island, the town grew in the 12th century as the earliest form of Stockholm. The architecture here is distinctly North German; after all, the German Hanseatic League played an important role in the development of Gamla Stan. 

    Life here must’ve been interesting. The island was very densely populated, which is why the streets are so narrow. Waste and garbage was poured into the alleys, and there aren’t many traces left of sophisticated sewers that have been found in other old towns like Bergen. Most likely the slopes in Gamla Stan did the job. 

    The island was suited for a settlement because it was easy to defend. The island is also at the inlet of Lake Malaren, a lake important for trade in the Baltic. 

    The name Gamla Stan is from the 20th century when Stockholm had expanded away from the island. Before then, it was simply called ‘sjalva staden’ (the city itself). 

    From the mid-19th century to the mid-20th century, Gamla Stan was considered a slum and the buildings were in disrepair. 

    In the last fifty years interest in Gamla Stan has renewed. Archaeological excavations show that the oldest streets are three metres below the present ones. The oldest streets are covered with wood; stone paving didn’t come until the 14th century. 

    This self-guided walk will take you into the historic alleys and past some of the oldest buildings in the city. This is a history walk with a focus on what Gamla Stan would’ve been like in its heyday. 

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    The Walking Route

    Riddarholmskyrkan

    The church dates back to the 13th century and is today one of the oldest buildings in Stockholm. It was originally built as a grey-friars monastery but after the Reformation it was converted into a church. 

    Riddarholmen Church has been used as a funeral and memorial church since 1807 and is known for being the final resting place of many Swedish Royal Family members. Several chapels here are dedicated to various Swedish kings. 

    Bondeska Palatset

    This is the most prominent building from the Swedish Empire (1611-1718). It was built in 1662 as a private residence for the Lord Treasurer, Gustaf Bonde. In the 18th century it accommodated the Stockholm Court house, and since 1949 it has had the Swedish Supreme Court.

    The style is based on the French Baroque and Renaissance prototypes common in the 17th century. 

    Vasterlånggatan

    This is the main thoroughfare and tourist street in Gamla Stan, and as such it is the main tourist street in Gamla Stan. I find that it lacks a lot of the charm of the area, so we’ll try and avoid it. 

    Prastgatan

    The name, “Priest Street”, comes from the fact that it was the residences of three chaplains and a bell ringer during the 16th century. The residences were demolished in 1708 to make room for the parsonage that is still there today.

    The northern part of the street was known as Helvetesgränd, or the “Alley of Hell”, just like the surrounding area north and west of the cathedral Storkyrkan was referred to as Helvetet (Hell). The areas north of the church were often referred to as ‘the northern side of the damned’ and therefore a place of disgrace suitable for suicides and criminals.

    Those who committed suicide as well as criminals were buried in this area. The towns executioner also lived here. The executioner was usually a person sentenced to death who was allowed to live in return for acting as an executioner. He also had the towns badge burned on him and his ears were cut off so he couldn’t evade his duties.

    The street has been featured in an Ingmar Bergman film. 

    Kakbrinken

    Here we will see a runestone built into the wall of a shop. The stone dates from the Iron Age but historians don’t know exactly how old it is or why it is in a wall in Stockholm. Runestones were usually made to memorialise the dead, and this one says “Torsten and Frogunn had this stone erected after their son”

    The stone was probably brought to Stockholm to be used as a building material, from where it is not known. As the female name Frogunn is known as a pagan name, the stone is believed to be from around 1000, the stone thus 200 years older than the city.

    A laser range scanner in 2002 showed variations in stroke patterns in the grooves of the stone, and that the stone was probably carved by a master builder and apprentice.

    Tyska Brinken

    The name means ‘German Slope’ but is not the original name of the area. The street is first mentioned in history as the ‘water slope’ and later was the ‘shoemakers slope’.

    The current form of the name refers to the German church and German parish who lived in the area. The German influence on Stockholm was considerable during the Middle Ages – half of the population and the members of the City Council were German, the Hanseatic League dominated trade, the wealthiest burghers were Germans, and the German language and culture was everywhere.

    Archaeological excavations in the area in 1993 exposed the remains of the old city wall and traces of what looks like a defensive tower from the 14th century.

    Number 20-22 is a rococo building called “Building of the German Church”. It was created in 1869 when three medieval buildings were merged

    Tyska Kyrkan

    The name means ‘The German Church’ and refers to the German congregation. 

    Back in the Middle Ages it served the local German community and was built in honour of Saint Gertrude, the patron saint of travellers. The German guild of St. Gertrude was founded on the location for the present church in the 14th century. The guild was created by German merchants. They were permitted to build their own church under King Gustav Vasa in 1558. During the 17th century, the church became a major epicentre for church music in Swedish. 

    By 1800 the German congregation had dwindled to 113 people. Today it is under the Church of Sweden as a non-territorial parish. There are 2000 members of the church and Services are held every Sunday at 11am.

    The church is built in a baroque style brick structure with a copper covered spire and neo-gothic gargoyles perched from the top. The brick steeple and copper spire was completed in 1878 after a fire destroyed the previous tower. There are neogothic gargoyles featuring grotesque animals, a very unusual feature in Swedish architectural history. Gargoyles are uncommon in Scandinavia. 

    On the Northern Gate is a gilded image of a patron saint and the exhortation “fear god! Honour the King!”

    Tyska Brunnsplan

    Tyska Brunnsplan (literally ‘German Well Square’) is another name that related to the importance of the Germans in Gamla Stan. The well used to be much larger, but during the latter part of the 18th century, the city’s fire department changed the square so it would be a turning space for horse-drawn vehicles. The goal was to prevent people causing accidents that would result in fire. Architect Erik Palmstedt was given the job of redoing the square, and he was inspired by Neoclassical architecture. However, he was restricted by the Medieval landscape, and this resulted in the present very small little well.

    The first synagogue in Stockholm was founded on the square’s eastern side in the 19th century and is today a Jewish Museum.

    The current location of the well is flanked by two chestnut trees. The location was once the site of a pharmacy called Apotheket Svan, or the Swan Pharmacy. Svartmangatan number 18 still has a sign for the pharmacy.

    Tyska Stallplan

    Yes, another reference to the Germans! The name directly means “German Stable Square”, referring to the stables that were here in the 18th and 19th centuries. However, the square used to be the site of the Blackfriars Monastery and excavation have unveiled the remains of the monastery walls under the present street. You’ll see cobblestone on the ground shaped differently; this is supposed to show where the monastery was.

    Here we’ll see a granite sculpture by Ivar Johnsson from 1956 of a young man mounting a horse.

    Marten Trotzigs Gard

    This is the narrowest street in Stockholm. It’s 90cm (36 inches) wide at its narrowest point and as the buildings tilt with age, it’s getting incrementally narrower each year. It’s also the only place in Stockholm’s old town where you will see graffiti.

    Mårten Trotzigs gränd, or Mårten Trotzigs Alley, is the only preserved staircase alley in Gamla Stan.

    The name isn’t very old; it was named in 1949 after Marten Traubtzig (Swedishised to Mårten Trotzig), who was born in Germany in 1559. It’s not known why he came to Stockholm, but it was likely for trading. He traded in iron and copper and eventually became a Swedish citizen. In 1597 he bought a small house on the eastern part of the alley and then in 1599 he bought another house in the alley. During his life, he became perhaps the richest merchant and citizen in Stockholm and had many children.

    On 21 March 1617, while visiting his mine, he died. He was likely robbed and murdered, but it has not been confirmed. His oldest son, Johan, takes over the properties and business and became known as Johan the Rich. His children sold the properties in 1679.

    The alley had various names after the Trotzigs, but all the names referred back to them (for example, Trotz gränd). When it got its current name in 1949 it is the first time the word ‘Mårten’ is used on the street name. it was never known if ‘Trotzig’ was referring to Mårten or Johan.

    The narrowest point is 90cm / 35 inches.

    Järntorget

    Järntorget (literally “Iron Square”) is a historic square in Stockholm. The square is the second-oldest square in Stockholm after Gamla Stan. The square was established around 1300 and was the city’s most important trading centre for centuries. The square was originally called Korntorget (Grain Squre) but got the name Järntorget in 1489.

    Iron trade surpassed corn trade in terms of importance. Controlling and putting a control on trade was an important income for the city and the king, and the city’s official scales were located here on the square. Besides iron, Sweden exported copper, silver, hide, fur, salmon and butter. Sweden imported salt, broadcloth, beer, wine, and luxury items such as spice, glass, and ceramics.

    During the Middle Ages, the area was dominated by German merchants, though there were also people from the British Isles, France and the Netherlands trading here.

    In the 17th century the square underwent a major transformation. Numerous taverns were in the square and the official scales were moved to Sodermalm. Wealthy people began to move in and built taller and more prestigious buildings. Having a property here was the best you could have as a merchant. The development was further promoted by the construction of Södra Bankohuset, the national bank building on number 84 in 1680. This was Sweden’s and the world’s first national bank.

    Sundbergs Konditori, the oldest confectioners shop in town, on number 83, was founded in 1785.   

    You will see a pump in the middle of the square. There has never been a functional pump here; this pump was gifted to the city from the Riksbank (which is in the square) in 1827. During the first 100 years the pump worked, but today it is just a work of art.

    The statue by the bank building is Evert Taube standing waiting for his ordered taxi, which is why he has pushed his glasses up on his forehead.

    Österlånggatan

    Österlånggatan (literally “Eastern Long Street”) is similar to Västerlånggatan, which we passed earlier in our walk. The street used to pass by the city walls on the eastern side of the island. However, it is much quieter than Västerlånggatan because it was not considered as important as Västerlånggatan. Compared to all the tourist shops you see on the west, Österlånggatan has boutique shops and nice restaurants.

    Archaeological excavations have unveiled the original land around three metres below the pavement. The shoreline has been gradually pushed east by land fillings of gravel and rubbish. Some noble families lived here, but Österlånggatan was rather associated with taverns. Of all these taverns, only Den Gyldene Freden (The Golden Peace) remains. However, the filth, stench, fights and misery are gone.

    For many centuries this was one of the main thoroughfares through Stockholm. Back in the 1300s the street used to reach outside the city walls and was filled with woodwork and blacksmith workshops supporting the local shipping industry. The shoreline was eventually pushed eastward by land fillings of gravel and rubbish, so by the 14th century the street had become the long street east of the wall (Swedish name), far from the water.

    The shipping trade gradually disappeared and by the early 20th century virtually everything was gone.

    St. George and the Dragon

    This statue depicts Saint George slaying a dragon. The legend of Saint George dates to the crusades. Saint George is said to have saved an entire village in Libya from a dragon. Provided they converted to Christianity first, of course. The statue is a replica – the original wooden version is in Storkyrkan church.

    Kopmangatan

    Historic street comprised of two slipes. Back in the Middle Ages, up to 1520, the area used to be a fish market – hence the name. One of the city’s medieval gates, The Merchants Gate, was found on the eastern end of this street until it was demolished in 1685.

    Stortorget

    This is the main square in Gamla Stan. The medieval square is 0.5m below the present cobbles. Traces of poles indicate that the area had simple sheds in the 13th century. Traces of an older building are believed to date to 1024

    The square started as a junction in which the tracks that cross-crossed the island converged. By 1400 the city had 6,000 inhabitants and stone buildings were built around the square.

    Stortorget 3-5

    Number 3 (the blue-ish one) was built by merchant Hans Bremer in the 1640s. Still features the original cross vaults and German inscription on the entrance hall. Today the building is known as the “Grill House” after the goldsmith Antoni Grill, who immigrated from Amsterdam to Sweden in 1659. He bought the building in 1681 and it remained in the family for over 100 years. The clove-shaped gables were added in 1718 together with the blue colour and rococo portal

    Number 5 (the yellow one) is a second hand shop. There are painted joists from the 1640s displaying animals, flowers and fruits. The ceiling inside is one of the few accessible to the public.

    Stortorget 18-20

    These are the most famous ones on Stortorget. They merged in the 17th century. Named after Johan Eberhard Schantz, the secretary of Charles X Gustavus who added the stepped gable and grand portal on the left building.

    The 82 white stones on number 20 are said to symbolise the heads decapitated by the Danish king in 1520.

    The house was built no later than 1479, when it appears in historic records

    Stortorget 14-16

    Named after Aesculapius, the son of Apollo and the demigod of medicine, which is reflected in the presence of the “Raven Pharmacy” at this address for more 300 years. The pharmacy is now still active a block away.

    Nobel Prize Museum

    The museum opened in the spring of 2001, marking the centenary of the Noble Prize. Its permanent display includes many artefacts donated by the laureates, presented together with their personal life stories, with the Nobel Laureates of 1901 and continuing to the present day, including prominent individuals such as Marie Curie, Nelson Mandela and Winston Churchill.

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide