Norway

  • Harstad, Norway, Walking Guides

    A Heritage Walk through Harstad’s Historic Town Centre

    A Heritage Walk through Harstad’s Historic Town Centre

    Harstad is a large city in the far north of Norway. While it’s not as historic as its neigbhours Bodo and Tromso, the town has some charming historic buildings from the mid-19th century heyday of shipping. There are lots of terrible post-war buildings, too. So I wrote this guide to show you the highlights of Harstad.

    When I visited Harstad in June 2021 to plan this walk, I was surprised by how empty the town was. There are many shopping malls around the town today, so the inner town centre is in decline. Harstad isn’t exactly a place where people come to walk around; it seems to be more of a stopover on the way to popular natural attractions. But that’s why I wanted to try and figure out if there was any history in Harstad, and if so, where was it?

    Large parts of the historic buildings have been destroyed by fire or war, but there are some true historic gems to be found in Harstad.

    A huge help for this guide was LokalHistorieWiki, a Norwegian Wiki page where history enthusiasts can upload information about their town, broken down by street and house number. The group in Harstad is a very enthusiastic one, and there is a wealth of information and photographs there! The site is only in Norwegian, but I’ve included some links so you can look at the old photos.

    Here is a guide to the historic buildings in Harstad town centre.

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Harstad Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Harstadhamn

    Located just north of the city today is Harstadhamn, a small cove that served as the basis for the foundation of Harstad.

    Harstad wasn’t the original settlement in the area. Ever since the Viking Age there has been a settlement in the area around Trondenes Church, today a 10 minute drive from Harstad town centre. It was an important political centre in the Viking Age and was the main town for hundreds of years.

    Harstad began to overtake Trondenes in importance after Bergen’s monopoly on trade declined and traffic increased along the northern coast. Harstad had a better natural harbour than Trondenes, so gradually the town moved.

    The first settlement took place around Harstadhamn. The small cove was perfect for the smaller ships and here the sea-related business flourished as skilled and forward-looking people moved to the area.

    Havnegata

    Havnegata is where all the industry around Harstadhamn developed. Many large factory buildings used to be here; today pretty much all of them are gone.

    You can see more of the buildings if you walk down Havnegata, but the nicer walk is to head to the pier and follow the promenade towards the city.

    You can find some old photographs and maps at LokalHistorieWiki (click here).

    Harstad Library and Culture House

    Library operations have been in Harstad since 1848. The current library is incorporated into Haarstad’s Cultural Centre. The culture house was built in 1992 and is the city’s main venue with 1,000 seats.

    Havnegata 5B

    Next to the Culture House is a building that has kept its old factory appearance. This building is from 1916, when it was a factory for the Midnight Sun Preserving Company. Today the building is part of the University and works as a student hostel. Not a bad place for students to stay!

    Havnegata 9

    HarstadNumber 9 is arguably the most beautiful house on the street. It was built for the Store Norske Spitsbergen Kulkompani in 1919 and is now for the student union.

    Havnegata 23B - Gammelbrygga

    Here we find another old warehouse. This one is a well-known landmark that has been threatened with demolition for the past 10 years. A support group, Gammelbrygg’s Friends, has been established to research the pier and work to protect it.

    There’s still some disagreement about when it was built and what it was used for, but it is nice to see in the city.

    You can see some old photos of the pier at LokalHistorieWiki (click here).

    Harstadsjøen

    Looking out towards Harstadsjoen

    Harstadsjøen is the name for the old settlement of Harstad. As steamships began to overtake sailing ships, Harstadsjøen was a better spot for them to dock. The first merchant houses were developed along Strandgata because of its close proximity to Harstadsjøen, and many of them had harbour access.

    The yellow building is the Swedish Port Authority’s expedition building from 1913. It has architectural style in both Neo-Baroque and Art Nouveau, and the building housed many consulates for around Europe as well as many representatives from the Norwegian shipping companies.

    Strandgata

    Strandgata (Beach Street) is the street where many of Harstad’s most distinctive buildings stand. It is also mostly a pedestrianised street with lots of the local buisnesses.

    This street is fascinating because it really tells Harstad’s history. People came from all over Norway to try and establish a successful business in Harstad after the boom in shipping and trade. Most of the businesses along the street were established by out-of-towners coming here to try their luck.

    Here are some of the older houses along Strandgata.

    Strandgata 19

    Strandgata 19 is a bit of a detour away from the direction we are going, but it is worth it.

    This house was built by pharmacist Harald Dahl in 1894 in the Swiss style of architecture. The pharmacy operated here for 56 years. The Swiss architecture is some of the most beautiful in Harstad.

    Strandgata 12

    Strandgata 12 opened as a bookstore in 1902 by a woman called Mathilde Bakke, and since then it has been a car workshop and a children’s clothing store, amongst other things.

    Strandgata 10

    This is one of the older houses in Harstad; built in 1896. It was owned by a woman called Hilda Oldenborg, who ran a business in embroideries, yarn and a colonial that sold coffee. ‘Colonial’ was the name of a grocery store with imports from overseas (i.e. the ‘colonies’).

    Strandgata 8

    Number 8 is another early 20th century wooden building. It was owned by Elias Hoel, a pioneer in the town who came to own many of Harstad’s buildings. The locals recognise it as the Harstad Bookshop, which operated from 1925 until 2001 in the building.

    Strandgata 6

    This house was built by the merchant Peder Thorbergsen, who received a deed to the plot of land in 1894. The building used to have a dock out the back.

    Strandgata 4

    Strandgata 4 was built in 1891, though it was damaged by fire in 1913. When it was brick, the art nouveau style was used instead. The house operated as a smokehouse and warehouse.

    Strandgata 2

    The other brick building is number 2. It was for Gunder Erikens, a watchmaker who came to Harstad in 1902 and built a wooden house. The house had a wharf out the back; the house practically stood on the edge of the beach. On the street level was the goldware, watch and optics shop, and there was an apartment on the upper level.

    The property was damaged by fire because some boys anted to make their own New Years Fireworks, which led to an explosion.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Plass

    Rikard Kaarbø is the man who is considered to be the founder of Harstad. He was the initiator and contributor to a number of businesses in Harstad that contibuted to Harstad getting city status in 1904. Amongst other things, he established the first newspaper in Harstad. Rikard Kaarbø also worked with many of the steamship companies.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Plass 2

    This is the most striking building in Harstad. It is beautiful detailing in Art Nouveau and Neo-Gothic. It’s funny to think that the building was built for the Harstad Beer and Wine Association in 1906, but the bank took it over in 1917!

    In 2010, this building was voted ‘most beautiful’ by the Harstad locals.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Plass 4

    Number four is where businessman Elias Hoel lived from 1903.

    The square gained prominence in the 1920s and 1930s but not for good reasons. With high unemployment and poverty grappling Harstad, it was where the men who had nothing else to do gathered.

    Rikard Kaarbøs Gate

    This street has some well-preserved wooden buildings. Businessman Elias Hoel was the one who regulated the street and he owned most of the plots on the street. This was also Harstad’s first car-free street.

    The street passes through the square, so some of the buildings are close to number 2 (the beautiful brick building)

    Rikard Kaarbø's Gate 14

    This building is located across the street from the beautiful brick building. It’s worth checking out because it is Harstad’s oldest wooden building; built in 1870.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Gate 10

    Number 10 was built by master baker John Sumstad in 1913 and it was a bakery for around 20 years before being converted into a hotel called Hotel Royal.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Gate 8

    This building is from the 1880s and was used by Rikard Kaarbø as a post office.

    Rikard Kaarbøs Gate 6

    Number 6 was built by Elias Hotel in the 1890s and was operated as a hotel and restaurant called Britannia.

    Torvet

    Torvet is likely the oldest square in Harstad. Sadly most of the original buildings are gone but you can see them in photos.

    You can view photos of Torvet at LokalHistorieWiki (click here).

    Torvet 7

    This is the most interesting building on Torvet. It was built around 1900 and was known as Holmgården. The wooden building still stands, but a shopping mall has been built around it.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Harstad Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    End of the walk!

    We end our walk down by Torvet 7. This is by the water and also very close to where the Hurtigruten docks in the morning.

    I hope you enjoyed this heritage walk through Harstad. The goal was to show there’s more to Harstad than meets the eye, and that the historic buildings can still be found in the city.

    Travelling to Harstad on Hurtigruten?

    You probably have enough time to make it to Rikard Kaarbøs plass and back, now that you know the historic centre of Harstad is just a stones throw away.

  • Norway

    Which Month is Best for Visiting Norway?

    Which Month is Best for Visiting Norway?

    Welcome to my guide that will answer your question: what month is best for visiting Norway?

    In this guide, you’l find a seasonal overview of the weather, what to pack, food, and events. There are also buttons that will lead you to pages dedicated to specific months of the year. 

    If you want to know what month is best for a specific destination, browse my digital travel guide (click here). You’ll find all the places I cover, and when you click on them you’ll find a section for the weather. 

    When should you visit Norway? What month is the best month? When is it warm and sun? When can I see the Northern Lights?

    These are commonly asked questions when travellers are planning to come to Norway. And there are hundreds of articles online giving you various answers, though they all typically say the same thing: July! Warmth! Sun! Pleasant! I read through dozens of these articles and typically read the same advice. However, it doesn’t really coincide with what I’ve experienced actually travelling in Norway.

    I take groups around Norway throughout the year for different purposes, and I’ve found that there is no special month to visit. No month is the ‘best’ month. No season is the ‘best season’. It depends on what you want to experience. Don’t like crowds? July isn’t for you. Don’t like rain? Maybe skip November (but seriously, you have to love the rain if you’re coming to Norway!)

    Choosing which month is best really depends on what you want to get out of Norway. So, in my guide, rather than tell you the ‘best’ month, I’ve put together an overview of what Norway is like each month. That way, you can understand what you can expect and choose your time of year from there.

    I’ve provided a general overview of Norway in each month, but focus also on Bergen. I mean, this blog is called ‘I Love Bergen’ after all! Also I live in Bergen, so I deal with the weather every day. For temperature averages, I focused on the three most commonly visited cities: Oslo, Bergen and Tromsø. But, of course, the weather varies dramatically across the country. If you think I should add a city, let me know.

    You can find weather information for specific cities in my digital travel guide (click here). 

    I’ve also focused on the most recent data for each month. It’s easy to get overall averages, but the weather in Norway is changing: it’s warming up. So I think the recent data is much more realistic than averages built up over time.

    If you think I’ve skipped over anything, or if there’s anything you think I should add, let me know!

    In this article...

    Quick Summary

    • Northern Lights: I’ve had the most success in March and September, though any time between September and March works as long as you put in the effort
    • Winter Activities: Come between December and March, though if you can push it to January do that.
    • Cool Weather: April, May, September, October, November, plus all of winter (of course)
    • Nature Lovers: May or October. Spring or Autumn
    • No Crowds, Open Attractions: May
    • Hot Weather: July. But don’t expect it to be hot like elsewhere in Europe
    • Snow: February/March. March is the month with the deepest snow
    • My recommended month: May

    Winter

    Winter is a lovely time to be in Norway, despite the fact it’s the quietest time of the year. Most of the country turns into a winter wonderland, and the northern lights begin to shine in the skies. While Bergen doesn’t see much snow at this time of year, you just have to travel an hour inland and you are surrounded by some of the most popular ski slopes in the country.

    Skiing has a special place in Norwegian culture and history, and during the winter people of all ages head to ski resorts, forests and mountains to enjoy their national hobby.

    Clothing

    Winter in Norway can, of course, be very cold. Bring layers. Use wool rather than cotton or polyester, and make sure you have waterproof clothing, as well as a coat that is both water and windproof. This is especially important in the coastal areas. If you are visiting a city, you don’t need waterproof pants and a down jacket will work just fine.

    Seasonal Food & Drink

    Winter is the best time of year to eat seafood such as prawns, langoustine, blue mussel, scallop and lobster. Fresh fish is also best in winter, and many restaurants offer cod, halibut, salmon and trout.

    Christmas food will be found on the menus throughout winter. This includes smalahove (sheep’s head), lutefisk (cod soaked in lye), and pinnekjøtt (dried, salted and steamed sheep’s ribs).

    Weather

    In winter, the average temperature for the entire country is -6.8 degrees, but the conditions vary a lot. Around Oslo, snowfall is common, and the average temperature is just below zero. In Bergen, the weather rarely goes into the negatives and we get more rain than snow.

    The lower areas of Northern Norway have very cold winters with lots of snow. The snow, strong winds and severe frost is particularly harsh, and may result in road closures.

    The coastal areas are much milder.

    The sun disappears from Northern Norway by the end of November, and until mid-January the region experiences the polar night. This doesn’t mean it’s completely pitch black throughout winter; Northern Norway gets these lovely polar lights; blue, pink and orange skies during the daytime, and then perfect northern lights darkness during the night. In southern Norway, at its worst, we get around 5.5 hours of sunlight a day.

    December is a very quiet month. It is the darkest month of the year, and many choose to have a quiet month centered around staying home and enjoying Christmas traditions. 

    Activities

    • Visit the Northern Lights Festival in Tromso
    • in Tromso they host the Northern Lights Festival

    Weather

    Typically February is the coldest month of the year.

    Northern Lights

    February is considered to be ideal for viewing the northern lights.

    Activities

    Many winter activities are on offer in February. 

    • The Polar Jazz Festival is held in February. It is the world’s northernmost jazz festival, taking place in Svalbard. 
    • Rørosmartnan is Norway’s largest winter festival. It’s held in Røros, one of my favourite places in Norway. 
    • Sami Week is a must if you are coming in February. During the first week of February, Sami culture is celebrated around the country. In Tromsø, they host the national reindeer sledge championship on the main street. 

    Spring

    Hardanger in May

    While Spring technically starts in March, it is still cold and snowy. March, after all, is still a popular month for seeing snow, the northern lights, and taking part in winter activities.

    During April and May, the days are getting longer and the snow is beginning to melt. During May, the plants all turn green and the flowers boom. Birds are starting to build their nests and farmers are delivering their newborn lambs. It’s a lovely time of year to be in Norway!

    Spring is the best time of year to see waterfalls. As the snow is melting, it creates giant waterfalls. By July, their flow has weakened considerably, and in winter they are frozen.

    Spring is also when the birds are at their liveliest. The migratory birds return home in April to enjoy the warmer seasons. The Varanger Peninsula is one of the best places to see birds like white-tailed eagles, gyrfalcons, steller’s eider and Arctic Sea Ducks. If you visit Røst in Lofoten in mid-April, you’ll see thousands of Arctic puffins return to their breeding grouns.

    On the West Coast of Norway, you typically get spring in late April/early May. They have to be a little more patient in Northern Norway, with spring coming in late May or early June, but by then the days are long and bright and the summer days have already started. May is the month when the two-month-long midnight sun begins in the Arctic.

    It’s notoriously hard to predict when spring arrives; technically the spring equinox is around 20 March. Personally, I don’t start feeling the spring weather until May. But even then, May can be a snowy month.

    Winter is a lovely time to be in Norway, despite the fact it’s the quietest time of the year. Most of the country turns into a winter wonderland, and the northern lights begin to shine in the skies. While Bergen doesn’t see much snow at this time of year, you just have to travel an hour inland and you are surrounded by some of the most popular ski slopes in the country.

    Skiing has a special place in Norwegian culture and history, and during the winter people of all ages head to ski resorts, forests and mountains to enjoy their national hobby.

    Clothing

    Dressing in April and May is difficult because the weather is so hard to predict; by the time you’ve put on your jacket, the weather has changed for either the worse or the better.

    It’s good to pack warm clothes no matter what, and a waterproof and windproof jacket is always needed. Make sure you dress in layers so you can adjust according to the weather.

    You typically won’t need snow boots in April, and you definitely won’t need them in May. While we still may get snow, it does melt very quickly and doesn’t affect walking around. In Northern Norway, the snow may sit for a little longer, but it’s not often slippery.

    Seasonal food & drink

    Spring is the time for lamb dishes, usually around Easter, and it’s also when we have the first potatoes, asparagus and wild garlic for the year.

    Fresh fish is always good, and in spring we typically have herring and cod from the Lofoten area.

    Closer to summer, rhubarb begins to appear.

    May is a month of public holidays included the much loved 17 May (Constitution Day), and for that day many Norwegians bake incredible cakes, pastries and breads. The best cakes have lots of fresh berries on them, whereas the popular and much loved kransekake is available for purchase in stores.

    During spring you finish your winter food, and you may come across salted meat and raspeball on the menus. Raspeball is a traditional potato dumlping, though it goes by many dufferent names!

    Weather

    Spring arrives early in Southern Norway compared to the rest of the country, usually some time in April. The days are getting warmer and lighter every day. Spring flowers appear, the trees are budding, birds build their nests and farmers deliver newborn lambs. In early spring the coastal areas of Western Norway have the highest temperatures. In May, it’s normally southern Norway that has the warmest weather.

    Above the Arctic Circle, Spring may not come until late May or early June.

    I’ve always found spring hard to predict. Last year, in May, it was hot and sunny, but this year it’s been cold, rainy and snowy for pretty much all the month.

    In March the days begin to feel much longer. March is also considered one of the best months for visiting Svalbard.

    Activities

    • The Finnmarksløpet is held in March. It is Europe’s longest dog sled endurance race and takes place up in Finnmark
    • The Sami Grand Prix (their version of Eurovision) is held in March
    • Sunfest in Longyearbyen is a celebration of the sun returning to the island

    April is a quiet month in Norway. The weather can be unpredictable and Norwegians are eagerly awaiting May and the good weather that will come. 

    Activities

    • Stavanger Vinfest. In mid-April a large celebration of food and wine is held in Stavanger
    • Trondheim Blues is one of northern Europe’s premier blues events. It takes place in Trondheim. 

    Spring arrives properly in May. All of the flowers begin to bloom, the snow melts, and it is typically one of the sunniest months in the country. 

    Activities

    Many festivals take place in May:

    • Constitution Day. If you are planning a trip to Norway in May, try to come on Constitution Day. The 17th of May is a huge celebration in the city and you’ll get to watch the parade, see people in their bunads, and enjoy true Norwegian patriotism. 
    • The Alta Blues and Soul Festival takes place in late May and has a month-long program of music performances
    • Bergen’s International Festival is one of Norway’s largest cultural events and has a two week line-up of cultural events, including dance, music, and presentations
    • Codstock in Lofoten in May is perhaps the best festival title in Norway. It is the celebration of cod and local music

    Summer

    Summer! Summer is (of course) the most popular time to visit Norway, and why not. The days are long, the sun is shining, and everything is open. The Norwegian summer weather is (for the most part) quite stable, and the temperatures are lovely all over the country. In July, during the summer holidays, you’ll see the locals out enjoying the sun after a long and cold winter. It’s also common for people to go out on their boats. Some have their sailing boats, while most just use their small traditional boats to cruise on the fjords and through the archipelagos.

    Summer is a popular month to go hiking, and all trails typically are open by July. Lots of people also spend nights out in nature camping and take to the ski trails to go cycling. Outdoor recreation is a major part of the Norwegian identity.

    At the same time, summer is the high season. Expect cruise ships, endless bus tours, crowds, lines, and higher prices. Hotels may sell out months in advance, while museums may be overcrowded to the point it’s unpleasant. Everyone comes in summer. The July holidays for Europe sees numerous caravanning Germans or Dutch on the roads, which is a thrill on the narrow fjord roads.

    Clothing

    Norwegian weather is always unpredictable. It may be hot and sunny one day, and then the next day it’s cold and rainy. Always pack windproof and waterproof clothing, but don’t hesitant to pack shorts and a t-shirt!

    Seasonal food & drink

    Summer is a lovely time for fresh berries, and blueberries are commonly found in the Norwegian forests and mountains. In Southern Norway, they tend to ripen in the middle of Summer. In July and August, you’ll see roadside booths offering locally grown strawberries and cherries for sale.

    Norwegians love grilling. Whole sections of the supermarket are dedicated to it. Almost no matter the weather Norwegians will be outside grilling whatever they come across. Vegetables, fish, meat, and poultry on the barbeque is a summer tradition for the Norwegians.

    The first sign of summer is when you see Norwegians outside drinking beer. There is even a Norwegian word for this: utepils. It’s so ingrained in summer that the first opportunity for it will often be mentioned in the press.

    Pick up a lovely plate of freshly caught fish served with sour cream, potatoes and cucumber salad. Or maybe have shrimp straight from the boat, enjoyed right at the dock?

    Weather

    Typically, summer temperatures reach 25 to 30 degrees, and there is hardly any humidity in the area. Even the nights are warm.

    In the last two years, we have had sweltering heatwaves where temperatures have gone over 33 degrees.

    The warm months sound great at first, but Norway is not built for hot weather. Hotels are typically not air conditioned, as are museums and supermarkets. It gets uncomfortably hot during summer, and this can be pleasant, especially if you aren’t used to that kind of heat. I mean, I’m from Australia and I find it unpleasant! So don’t think you have to travel in July because it’s hot and sunny; most of my groups love the colder weather. It’s more Norwegian, right?

    From late June to early August it never really gets dark anywhere in the country. The midnight sun occurs only above the Arctic Circle, and lasts typically from mid-May to the end of July. Below the Arctic Circle the sun does set, but we never really get a true darkness. The sky is more like dusk throughout the night.

    The warmest and most stable weather usually occurs in Eastern Norway, where it’s often very sunny and temperatures are over 25 degrees Celsius.

    The highest temperatures are inland.

    Along the Western Coast, the cool sea breezes keep most heat waves at bay, but keep in mind Bergen can be very rainy, even in summer. A lovely sunny day can be followed by three miserable rainy ones.

    June is when tourism really returned to Norway and it gets crowded very fast.

    It is a good time to go whale watching up in Northern Norway around Andenes. 

    Activities:

    • Voss Extreme Sports Week: Head to Voss in Western Norway for an action packed week of outdoor sports. 
    • Midnight Sun marathon in Tromso: This is the world’s northernmost 42km road race and worth going to watch if you aren’t a marathoner. 

    July is peak tourist season and is very crowded. Still, it is a nice warm month to come and there are some things going on. 

    Activities

    • Moldejazz in Molde is one of Norway’s most famous jazz festivals

    August is when most of the music festivals take place. The weather is still nice and warm, but the midnight sun has ended and the days are getting shorter.

    • International Chamber Music Festival takes place n Stavanger and has some nice concerts
    • Rauma Rock is Norway’s regular mix of jazz and blues
    • Øya Festival in Oslo is Norway’s largest rock festival

    Autumn (Fall)

    The Norwegian autumn comes with a variety of weather. In some parts of the country, summer may last until well into October, while rain and snow can arrive as early as September.

    The best part of autumn is the changing of the colours. The trees and heath turn yellow and red and leaves start to fall off the trees. The colours are at their most dazzling in autumn. The mountains are especially beautiful at this time of the year, and it’s a popular season to go hiking.

    Summer! Summer is (of course) the most popular time to visit Norway, and why not. The days are long, the sun is shining, and everything is open. The Norwegian summer weather is (for the most part) quite stable, and the temperatures are lovely all over the country. In July, during the summer holidays, you’ll see the locals out enjoying the sun after a long and cold winter. It’s also common for people to go out on their boats. Some have their sailing boats, while most just use their small traditional boats to cruise on the fjords and through the archipelagos.

    Summer is a popular month to go hiking, and all trails typically are open by July. Lots of people also spend nights out in nature camping and take to the ski trails to go cycling. Outdoor recreation is a major part of the Norwegian identity.

    At the same time, summer is the high season. Expect cruise ships, endless bus tours, crowds, lines, and higher prices. Hotels may sell out months in advance, while museums may be overcrowded to the point it’s unpleasant. Everyone comes in summer. The July holidays for Europe sees numerous caravanning Germans or Dutch on the roads, which is a thrill on the narrow fjord roads.

    Clothing

    Wind and rain make the outdoors a typically wet experience in autumn, but you may get lucky and see a last glimpse of summer weather. It is difficult to predict the weather in autumn, but you should pack wind and rainproof outer clothing. Underneath wear a couple layers that you can adjust according to the temperatures.

    Seasonal food & drink

    Autumn is harvesting time. This is when the menus change once again, and Norwegians favour local ingredients and slow-booked and rich dishes suited for a chillier climate.

    Fårikål, Norway’s national dish, is popular in autumn; there’s even the Fårikål Feast Day in September.

    The Norwegian word for autumn is høst, which literally translates to harvest. Gathering fruits, berries and mushrooms is a popular hobby. Lots of Christmas treats are prepared in autumn.

    Apple Day is also celebrated in September. The season’s apples are perfect as jams and pies.

    Other popular foods are lamb, moose and other wild beasts, which go well with lingonberries and cream sauce. Potatoes, sweet carrots and crispy chanterelles also are found on menus.

    The crowds and cruise ships begin to disappear in September, so it can be a nice time to visit. However, the weather can be a little unpredictable. 

    In October the temperatures are dropping. You get the nice fall colours in October. 

    Activities

    • Bergen International Film Festival is one of Norway’s largest festivals. It is largely a documentary festival

    November is a quiet month for tourism and the winter can start to come. Winter activities don’t typically begin now because there isn’t stable snow on the ground yet. 

  • Norway

    What is a Fjord?

    “What is a fjord?”

    This is probably one of the most asked questions I get from my tour groups. It is asked when we are out on the Naeroyfjord Cruise or sailing into Geiranger with Hurtigruten. I get it, fjords are a tricky thing to define. That is, in part, because not all fjords look like fjords (Take the Trondheimsfjord, for example). Also, Norwegians define fjords differently than other parts of the world. I’ve put together a short overview of exactly what a fjord is, and it helps 🙂

    Riding the Naeroyfjord on the very popular Gudvangen – Flåm fjord cruise. This photo was taken in May 2019.

    What is a Fjord?

    In short, a fjord is a deep, narrow and elongated sea or lake drain with steep land on three sides. There is always an opening towards the sea, often referred to as the mouth of the fjord.

    The fjords in Western Norway are typical u-shaped undersea valleys with steep mountains.


    Fjords are long, narrow inlets with steep sides or cliffs carved out by glaciers.

    UNESCO added two Norwegian fjords to its World Heritage List. This is because of how well the fjords in Norway represent the fjord definition. The two fjords are the Geirangerfjord and the Naeroyfjord. You can see their page about the fjords here.

    Sailing on the Oslofjord with DFDS. I need to take better photos of the Oslofjord!

    Not all Fjords are Fjords

    Norwegians use the term ‘fjord’ differently than we use it in English. In Norway, many lakes and bodies of water earn the title ‘fjord’. That’s because of how the word is defined.

    The word fjord is one of the Norwegian words that has made it into the English language. It comes from the Old Norse word fjordr, which means “where one fares through”. The words fare (travel) and ferry come from the same origin as fjord. When it was added into the English language, it was written as fiord as many English words don’t use fj. However, the spelling fiord is only found in New Zealand today; everywhere else uses the spelling fjord.

    In Norwegian, the word fjord references many bodies of water, inlets or channels. This is because throughout history Norwegians have used these bodies of water as a method of transport.

    The Naeroyfjord in May 2019.
    Representation of fjords around Norway

    There are many examples of this in Eastern Norway, where the land was not carved out by glaciers. Still, though, the bodies of water provide a mode of transport. For example, the Oslofjord is not formed by glaciers (it is a rift valley) and is more of an inlet. Yet it is referred to as a fjord. If you ride the Bergen – Oslo Train, you pass the Tyrifjorden, which is a large freshwater lake just outside Oslo. Lake Mjøsa, near Lillehammer, is a fjord according to the locals – it even sometimes looks like a fjord!

    Some rivers are also referred to as fjords, such as the Hallingdal River, which empties into Krøderfjorden, a freshwater lake.

    In Northern Norway, there are many fjords. Some are not considered fjords by the English definition. Glaciers carved them out, but they do not have steep sides. This is because the glaciers were deep enough to cover even the high grounds when they were formed.

    The Danes call many shallow lagoons fjords.

    Don’t think this is a method of trickery, though. When you book a trip to see the ‘fjords of Norway’ we aren’t going to take you to a freshwater lake. You go to the ‘proper’ fjords of Western Norway 🙂

    The village of Geiranger. You can almost see behind it how the glacier moved down the cliffside.
    Looking down at Geiranger and the Geirangerfjord from Dalsnibba viewpoint. This image was taken in August 2019.

    Formation of Fjords

    It is glaciers that form fjords. Glaciers are a large body of ice caused by accumulating, dense snow. Glaciers covered the Scandinavian peninsula. After each Ice Age, the glaciers melted slowly and shifted under their weight. As they would melt down to the sea, they would push rocks with them and carve the landscape.

    Here’s a YouTube video that shows it pretty well:

    https://youtu.be/NH-vnKR6A7A?t=50

    A glacier cuts and forms a U-shaped valley by ice segregation and abrasion of the rock. I.e, ice breaking off and sliding down, breaking rock off as it goes. The glaciers are already sitting in valleys with a gently sloping floor; the melting of the glacier deepens the U-shaped valley.

    Leaving Geiranger on the Geiranger – Hellesylt ferry (the best and cheapest way to see the fjord). This image was taken in July 2019.

    As the glaciers melt, the Earth’s crust rebounds. The glaciers are heavy and weigh down the earth. When the glacier melts, the land can rise. In fact, Scandinavia is rising. In some parts of Scandinavia, the land is rising faster than the sea is rising.

    The Hardangerfjord, the second-longest fjord in Norway. This image was taken from Steinstø Fruit Farm in May 2019.

    How Deep are the Fjords?

    Sometimes, you can look at the mountains on either side of the fjord to get a sense of depth. Often, the depth of the fjord is the same as the hight of the mountains. This is not true in all cases, especially the smaller fjords. For larger fjords, it gives an indication.

    The mouth of the fjord is often the shallowest part, and it’s where we find a lot of gravel and sand. Glaciers pushed the gravel here. The shallow parts are what makes the fjords calm; very very seldom will you find rough water on the fjords. For this reason, fjords are often natural harbours. That said, the entrance to the fjord is also where you find some extreme currents and saltwater rapids. For example, Saltstraumen near Bodø has the world’s strongest tidal current.

    The fjords are typically deeper than the sea they connect to.

    The Sognefjord, the longest fjord in Norway and second longest in the world. It is as deep as 1300m (4,265ft) below sea level.

    The famous ‘Trollfjord’ at the Lofoten Islands. I took this photo when I was on Hurtigruten in September 2019 – the ship goes into the fjord and does a little spin.

    Are Fjords Saltwater or Seawater?

    In short, they are both. Saltwater comes in from the sea. Freshwater comes from the connecting rivers and waterfalls, which also catch the melting snow every year.

    Skerries in the Lofoten Islands. This photo was taken in February 2019 – my first trip on M/S Trollfjord!

    What is a Skerry?

    A skerry is a small rock found in the sea. It is one of the Norwegian words that has made it into the English language – skerry comes from the Old Norse word sker.

    Skerries are most commonly found at the outlet of the fjords, or where the fjords join the sea. In many cases, they are boulders that the glaciers have pushed out as they have melted.

    Skerries line Norway’s coastline, particularly in the west. The skerries lie parallel to the coast, providing a safe channel for ships. It’s possible to travel in a protected passage along almost the entire coast of Norway, from Stavanger to North Cape (1601km / 995 miles). If you travel on Hurtigruten, you see these protected passages up close.

    The Flåm Valley seen from the Flåm Railway

    Fjord Valleys

    Travelling around Norway, you’ll notice that at the ends of fjords are often small, flat patches of land where villages have formed. Fjord-valleys are the continuation of fjords on land. They often end abruptly at steep cliffs. An excellent example of this is the Flåm Valley, which you’ll see if you take the Flåm Railway. If you’re in Hardanger, the Måbø Valley is also a great example.

    You’ll see that there are many farms along the fjords. The most arable land in Norway is along the fjords. The water is not freezing cold thanks to the Gulf Stream drifting in from the sea.

    https://youtu.be/evavlorCXzM

    A word you may see in Norway is eid – it’s often in placenames. An eid is land between a lake a fjord. When the ice was stable during a long period of melting, the land blocks the lake from emptying into the fjord. Many villages are on these plots of land, such as Eidfjord or Nordfjordeid. Eidfjord sits between the Eidfjord Lake and the Eidfjord branch of the Hardangerfjord.

    Hurtigruten at the Geirangerfjord

    See the Fjords of Norway

    There are many ways to see the fjords here in Norway. The best place to start is in Bergen. Bergen is the gateway to the fjords. From here you can take many day trips out to see the fjords depending on your budget, or you can rent a car and go see them yourself.

    I have a whole page dedicated to the fjords of Norway, which you can read here. I’ve provided an overview of each ‘must-see’ fjord in Norway, so you can plan your trip accordingly.

    Resources

    For my research, I used the following websites: