Hikes

  • The Reality of Hiking Troll Tongue

    The Reality of Hiking Troll Tongue

    Troll Tongue (Trolltunga in Norwegian) is one of the most famous hikes in Norway. The famous ‘tongue’ hanging over a cliff has become iconic on social media and travel blogs for Norway. Whenever I meet guests in Bergen, the young and fit ones tell me they are going to hike Troll Tongue. But what’s more common is I get guests telling me they are going here and my immediate thought is oh no, you won’t make it. I remember once having to tell them there’d be snow and they’d be risking their lives if they did it in February.

    Why are so many people ill-prepared? Well, it’s easy. They see the photo, they say “I can do that”, and off they go. It’s crazy. I hiked Troll Tongue back in 2016, and I didn’t enjoy it at all. And that was after doing a ton of research. But I vividly remember that as I was doing it, I was passing people in much worse shape than me, people in jeans, people in sneakers, and people without backpacks for food. 

    So, I’ve put together this guide to make it clear exactly what to expect when going to Troll Tongue. While I enjoy hiking, I am not an expert hiker and you should not take my word alone. I’ve tried to provide as many external links to Norwegian sources so you can read about the hike based on expert opinions. 

    The Reality of Hiking Troll Tongue

    The Rv13 Highway

    Odda is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    Setting Expectations

    Hiking grade level

    Because the trail is longer than 20km, the trail is automatically listed as an expert hike. However, it is definitely an expert-level hike! Although the trail is well-marked, you must be in very good shape and have excellent endurance. You must also have done mountain hikes before, preferably in Norway. 

    You must feel comfortable walking on uneven surfaces and up steep rock cliffs without things to hold onto. 

    The whole trail has been photographed on Google Maps, so you can get a sense of what the path looks like: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Fy8VgatULGyu4oNZ9 (go into street view after clicking that link)

    In Norway, our hiking website is called ut.no. They have a page for Troll Tongue, and while it’s in Norwegian, you can clearly make out information about the difficulty of the hike: https://ut.no/turforslag/115074/trolltunga-unik-hyfjellstur-ved-hardangerfjorden

    Go with a guide!

    If you are worried about your fitness level or ability to keep to the trail, book a guided tour. Here an expert Norwegian will guide you safely on the trail, assist you, and provide information along the way. 

    I cannot recommend this enough. 

    Read more about guided hiking here: https://trolltunga.com/plan-your-trip/guided-hiking/

    When can you do the hike?

    Hikers can go without a guide from June to September depending on the weather. Never take this at face level without checking the weather. Now in June we had snow a couple days ago. It is absolutely not safe to do Troll Tongue on snow or ice. 

    If you go from October – May without a guide, you are risking your life. The weather is unpredictable and snow or ice on the ground is risky when there are no barriers. Also, you risk getting stuck up there after dark. 

    How many nights do you need a hotel?

    Book your hotel for at least two nights. You can stay in Odda, Tyssedal or Ullensvang. Do not stay in Bergen and head to Troll Tongue for the day.

    Ideally, you should book somewhere for 4-5 nights and then pick the best-weather day of that period to hike Troll Tongue. Use the other days to do easier hikes, take fjord cruises, visit farms and museums, and see beautiful Western Norway. 

    When doing Troll Tongue, try to start no later than 7am. 

    What to bring

    You need to be wearing high quality, waterproof hiking boots. Bring with you very good clothing as you may be suddenly exposed to rain or cold weather without much warning. It is very important to bring lots of food and water. Do not wear jeans, trainers, or other everyday clothing.

    Also wear sunscreen! While we don’t have a high UV index, the sun is high above you for long periods of the day and can feel harsher than standing on a beach in Australia. 

    I remember I brought clean socks and was so so happy about it when I got to put them on. I wish we had brought a thermos with hot water and those meals that you hydrate. You can buy them in Norwegian outdoor shops. Look for this brand “Real Turmat” (click here). 

    Here’s a guide for what to wear and pack: https://trolltunga.com/plan-your-trip/equipment/

    Safety first

    If I haven’t yet convinced you to come fully prepared, here’s a video that was made by some Norwegians about what to expect on the mountains. 

    There is mobile phone coverage for most of the trail. However, do not rely on your phone for navigation. Have a printed map with you. 

    Click here for a basic map of Troll Tongue. 

    If you are reading online blogs about the hike, consider the source. I do understand the irony in this, but don’t read blogs from travel bloggers who came to Norway once, did the hike, and left. Read from official, Norwegian sources. Travel bloggers don’t have a realistic understanding of the hike and their fitness level may be different to yours. Even on this guide, I’m trying to provide as many external links as possible to Norwegian sources. Don’t trust my judgement alone – read everything and determine for yourself if you can handle the hike.

    Here is a great guide from VisitNorway about hiking safety: https://www.visitnorway.com/things-to-do/outdoor-activities/hiking/tips/

    Doing the hike

    Okay, you are sure you can do Troll Tongue. That’s great! Now let’s go through the practical bits. 

    Where to park and start the hike

    There are two parking lots – P2 and P3. The difference between the two is where they start. P2 starts at the foot of the mountain, while P3 starts 1km into the hike and skips the most challenging part of the hike – the steep, up-hill ascent. When I did the hike, there was no P3. In fact, they opened it one year after I did the hike, something I’m still a little bitter about.

    Anyway, if you are absolutely not an up-hill person then you want to go to P3. Trust me, you want to go to P3 unless you are a very skilled hiker. That first 1km of hiking involves pulling yourself up on ropes and climbing up rocks. If you start from P3, you conserve a lot of energy and save a lot of time.

    P3 does having parking spaces, but it is extremely limited and it’s highly likely you won’t get a park there. There is also a shuttle bus that takes you up there, which makes much more sense.

    Take the shuttle bus

    How long does the hike take?

    If you start walking from P2, allow 8-12 hours for the 27km round-trip hike. If you start walking from P3, allow 7-10 hours for the 20km hike. Note that this depends heavily on your fitness level and the weather. We had pouring rain for half of the hike and it took considerably longer than planned.

    What to expect on the hike

    That first part (now skippable with the P3 carpark) was the most challenging part of the trip. Once you get part it, there is an excellent, well-marked trail. There is another steep climb about 45 minutes into the hike at what’s called the Gryteskaret Pass. This is one of the most strenuous stretches for the hike. You must be able to navigate yourself on uneven rocks.

    There will be another steep climb up to the Tromeskar pass, and from here you’ll be at a grassy valley very popular with campers. Shortly after passing that steep climb, you’ll make it to a view of the Ringedalsvatnet lake below in the valley.

    As you get closer to Troll Tongue, the trail will narrow, and you should be mindful of the high drop.  

    Overall, the trail is solid and well-marked because it is such a popular tourist attraction. Signs along the trail show the remaining distance to both Troll Tongue and back to the beginning of the trail.

    On the trail, it is possible to drink the natural water. However, do not drink water close to cabin areas or until you have reached the first emergency shelter just before Floren, about halfway to Troll Tongue. It’s better to fill water from a running stream than from a lake but be advised that water may contain impurities after heavy rainfall.

    There are no public toilets on the trail. Use the toilets at the parking lots before going up. Keep your toilet stops on the mountain far away from streams and lakes and downhill from trails.

    You must bring all your trash down from the mountains.

    Snow & rain

    It’s very common to see snow up here. In fact, it’s not recommended to hike the trail in May due to the risk of snow and ice. There are no barriers, so one slip in the wrong direction and it’s all over.

    Even in late June you may encounter patches of snow and cross streams, so waterproof boots are important and be sure to pack some extra socks.

    If you see rain forecast, do not go. There are no safety barriers and rocks become slippery when wet. If it means you miss hiking the trail altogether, so be it.

    Emergency shelters

    Two emergency shelters are located along the trail in case of a sudden storm or other emergency. The emergency shelters have sleeping bags, blankets and food rations.

    Save this in your phone: The emergency number

    The emergency number is 112.

    Arriving at Troll Tongue

    There is often a queue to go and stand out at Troll Tongue. It is likely that you will have to wait up to 90 minutes just to get out there and get the famous photo. When you get out there, stay a couple feet back from the edge of the cliff. People have fallen from here in the past.

    Wrapping up: Hiking Troll Tongue

    I live in Bergen, and we hear all the time in the news in summer about tourists getting stuck on the mountains and having to be rescued. It’s become a huge argument in the country if we should do more to prevent tourists from taking these hikes since they are so unprepared. If you want to do this hike, do your research. Read from official, Norwegian websites and study the trail on Google Maps. Get a printed copy of the map and buy good quality hiking gear. Seriously consider booking a guide to go with you. Make the right decisions. Don’t skip essential parts because you are short on cash or time. At the end of the day, is risking your life worth it for a photo? No, not really!

    Also, don’t do this hike just for the shot for Instagram. There are so many wonderful hikes around Norway, and many with arguably better views, so you don’t have to do this one just because it’s famous. Why waste your day queuing for 90 minutes for the photo when you can choose a less challenging hike with better views and no crowds?

    When I did the hike in 2016, I researched the trail extensively, went with a group, and even had my husband’s cousin come with us (he is an experienced hiker in Norway) who brought food, shelter, and helped us on the trail. However, we made many mistakes. We went on a day when rain was forecast and had a very challenging time getting back down the mountain after visiting Troll Tongue. In hindsight, it was completely unsafe. Now, eight years later and wiser and with lots of experience hiking around Western Norway, I would go back and do it again and probably do a lot better.

    All in all, there’s no shame in saying “this isn’t for me”. But if you do decide to go, make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into. 

    The Rv13 Highway

    Odda is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    Troll Tongue is located close to Odda, and you should be staying in Odda for at least two nights during your hike. Read my travel guide for Odda above. 

  • Hiking Up and Down Mount Fløyen

    Hiking Up and Down Mount Fløyen

    A trip to the top of Mount Fløyen is a must for anyone visiting Bergen. It’s the most famous of the seven mountains that surrounds the city centre. From the top, you get sweeping views over Bergen, the suburbs, the fjords, and the ocean. It makes sense that it is one of the top five destinations in Norway. And who wouldn’t miss a chance to get a selfie at the top?

    The most popular thing to do in Bergen is take the funicular – Fløibanen – that goes from the city centre to the top of Mount Fløyen. But why funicular when you can walk? Walking up to the top station has so many benefits – you get to see the nature, different sides of the city, and you get this sense of accomplishment when you reach the top.

    The walk to the top of Mount Fløyen is easy, short, and one of my favourite things to do.

    Information online about walking up Mount Fløyen is scattered at best because there are so many ways to get to the top. I’ve put together this guide with the best way up and down so you can make the most of your own hike.

    If you do want to know more about the funicular, or plan on taking it one way, you can view their website here.

    In this article...

    About Fløyen

    Fløyen is one of the seven mountains that surrounds Bergen. It is 400m (1300ft) high at its highest point, though the top station of the funicular is 320m (1000ft) above sea level.

    The name fløyen probably comes from a weathervane that used to be at the top. It was used to indicate the direction of the wind for sailing ships – the Norwegian word for it is fløystangen.

    The mountain used to be used for farming, but since the 19th century there has been an increased focus on using it for recreation purposes.

    About the Hike

    There are many different paths up and down Mount Fløyen. The way up and down that I’m about to describe is (in my opinion) the best for views and the best for your legs if you aren’t an experienced hiker.

    The hike up is 3km (2 mi) and takes around 1 hour – it can take as little as 45 minutes if you are quick or using it for exercise. However, I’d allow an hour if you plan on taking photos or want to set your own pace.

    The walk down is a different path so you see different views. It is roughly the same distance – 3km/2 mi – as the walk up. It is mostly on a paved road. The walk down takes about 40 minutes.

    The Hike Up

    Starting Point

    We are going to stat at the lower Fløibanen station. Behind it, you’ll see a hairpin road that leads up the hill. At the top, you’ll see a white wooden building with a tower. That’s where we are going.

    Skansen

    Skansen is a district in Bergen that was a farming area until the late 19th century. Throughout the 19th century, Bergen became increasingly overpopulated. Skansen was built up with housing to accommodate the growing population. At one point, Skansen and the neighbouring Fjellsiden were the most densely populated suburbs in Norway.

    Originally running water didn’t reach Skansen, so the Skansedammen (Skansen Lake) was built to provide water to the area. The lake was built in 1881 and was not just for running water but was also used as a water source to protect the wooden houses in the area. There used to be carp fish in the lake for fishing; in 2014 they were taken and given to the Aquarium as food for crocodiles! The lake was rebuilt at this time; and the new lake is 19.5cm deep. Under the lake is a parking garage with space for 193 cars.

    Today Skansen is characterised by its old fire station, which is the white wooding building we’ll reach at the end of the hairpin road. The fire station was built in 1903 after a large investment in fire protection. The building is inspired by 17th and 18th century Bergen architecture and is built in the typical timber style. It originally had one garage, a stable room and a workroom. The fire station closed in 1969 and today it is used as a clubhouse for the Skansens Battalion, the local buekorps group.

    Memorial

    Before you get to the staircase, you’ll pass a memorial commemorating all the members of the Skansens Battalion who fell during World War II.

    Husk at hesten trenger hvile

    The beginning of Tippetue is at the famous rest stop Husk at hesten trenger hvile (remember that a horse needs rest).

    This is where the intersection with Fjellveien is. Fjellveien is a well-known and much-loved flat walking trail that goes around the mountain. It’s a great option if you want to see a lot of the city and forest without too much hiking.

    At the rest stop you’ll find the bust of Ole Irgens, who was one of the main driving forces behind the construction of Fjellveien.

    Tippetue

    Tippetue is the name of the hiking trail. The name, which is quite strange (it’s pronounced like tip-eh-two-ah), comes from a town legend. There was a man who lived in Bergen in the second half of the 19th century. He frequently hung out at the pub not far from the starting point of the trail. The pub was known as Breistølen Farm and there was a scenic overlook point next to the pub. The man probably had outrageous behaviour when he was drunk, so the locals named him Tippetue. Originally the path was to be called Skovveien (Forest Way), but the locals always referred to it as Tippetue and the name eventually stuck. The famous scenic overlook is a little later on our walk.

    The gravel road up from the city was finished in 1908, and the path to Fløyen was finished a few years later.  UiO Information about Tippetue

    Note – the starting point of Tippetue is around 900m from the lower funicular station – our starting point. The next 1km of the path consists of a series of hairpin bends, but you are never walking on a steep path.

    Kindergarten & Trollskogen

    Shortly after the kindergarten you’ll see Trollskogen, or the troll forest. It’s about 200m from the top funicular station. Trollskogen is a play area in the forest for kids, with plenty of wooden troll statues scattered throughout the park. There are cubby houses, bridges, ropes, and anything kids can use for play. It’s understandably very popular with kids, but also with visitors who want to see real trolls!

    At the Top of Mount Fløyen

    There are three places to get food at the top of Mount Fløyen. The first is in a small, white wooden building and doubles as a souvenir shop that’s well worth checking out. The second is a new cafeteria-style building with baked goods and coffee. The third is in the largest white wooden building and is the Fløyen Folkerestaurant (click here to see their website).

    For the kids, there is a large playground that will keep them busy for hours. At the front of the playground is a troll, so be sure to get a photo with him!

    Of course, don’t miss the scenic view over Bergen. You’ll see the bay (Vågen), Bryggen, the churches, the fortress, the fjord, the island Askøy, the peninsula Nordnes, the mountains surrounding Bergen, and so much more.

    There are many hiking trails that start from the top of Mount Fløyen. You can read about them on the Fløibanen website (click here). I’ll cover them in a future article.

    The Hike Back Down

    To get to the beginning of the path down, walk around the Fløyen Folkerestaurant with the view over Bergen to your right hand side (and the restaurant on your left). You’ll pass the wooden building where the goats live – and might even see them! – before reaching a concrete path that feels like it’s sticking out of the mountain over the view.

    The path winds around an active park where you can zipline and take part in various outdoor activities. If you take a detour and walk through the forest you’ll get to Bergen’s secret cabin, TubaKuba.

    TubaKuba

    TubaKuba was designed by students from the Bergen School of Architecture as a way to get more children to play in the Norwegian woods. The wood has been bent to mimic the horn of a tuba (hence the name). The cabin is intended to be explored – children have an easier time fitting through the rabbit hole door than adults and can emerge on the other side to be in a small box that overlooks Bergen city centre.

    TubaKuba can be rented as a cabin for a night – groups of up to five individuals (with families being given priority) can rent TubaKuba on a nightly basis. It’s small, but very cozy with a wood stove and a lofted area with the beds. The only condition is that they accept that people may come through the rabbit hole at any point to have a look – it is first and foremost a public space.

    TubaKuba Links:

    http://www.bas.org/en/News/Tubakuba-er-apnet!

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/tubakuba

    https://www.bergenoghordalandturlag.no/artikler/turtips/12632-utforsk-nrmiljet-besk-tubakuba/

    The Old Ski Jump

    If you keep an eye out on your right hand-side, you’ll pass a plaque. It commemorates an old ski jump that used to be on the side of the mountain. On Midsummer 1949 an event took place here that brought well-known ski jumpers from around the country to jump off this old ski jump. If you look up the mountain behind the plaque, you can see where the old ski jump was.

    The stone reads:

    til minne om tranegutter som St. Hansaften 1949 arrangerte hopprenn i denne bakken med deltakere som Birger Ruud, Petter Hugsted og med flere av de best hopperne i Norge. Bakkerekorden har tilhørt vår alles skuespiller Rolf Berentzen.

    in memory of ‘tranegutter’ who on Midsummer 1949 arranged jumping races on this hill with participants such as Birger Ruud, Petter Hugsted and with several of the best jumpers in Norway. The record has belonged to our all-time actor Rolf Berentzen.

    Skansemyren Sports Ground

    We are now in the residential area of Skansemyren, which has a mix of houses and apartments. We’ll walk between them for a little while, giving you a nice look at some typical family homes.

    Fjellsiden

    You’re getting close to the city when you see the bunched up wooden houses of Fjellsiden. Those 19th century buildings were built to accommodate Bergen’s rapidly growing population. You see them when there’s less than 1km to go!

    Back at Tippetue!

    The path ends at the husk at hesten trenger hvile rest stop we began at. From here, cross the road and head back down the stairs to reach Skansen and the city.

    I hope you enjoyed the walk! In total, it should take 2-3 hours, depending on your pace.

  • Fjellveien Hike

    Fjellveien Hike

    No trip to Bergen is complete without a hike in the mountains – that is what Bergen is famous for! Still, though, hiking may not be for everyone, or you may have limited time for a hike. That’s where the Fjellveien hike comes in. Fjellveien is one of the most famous hiking routes in Bergen and what’s so great about it is that it is flat, making it perfect for all ages and fitness levels. By doing the Fjellveien hike, you get a lovely look at the Bergen mountains, forests, historic buildings, fjord, and cityscape.

    For this article, I walked the entire length of Fjellveien hike, making a note of all of the major points of interests along the way. I’ve also written down how to get to/from Fjellveien.

    In this article...

    Overview of the Fjellveien Hike

    Fjellveien (“Mountain Way” in English) is a path that goes along the mountains Sandviksfjellet and Fløyen in central Bergen. The trip starts at Munkebotn in Sandviken and travels through the suburb of Mulen, the city centre, and then into the expensive area of Bellevue and Kalfaret. The walk ends in front of the historic Bellevue Restaurant.

    Length and elevation

    In total, the length of the Fjellveien hike is 4632 metres (4.6km / 2.8 miles). It is probably the flattest hike in Bergen. The path is mostly a gravel path, though there are some sections where you have to walk on a road.

    In total, according to my Apple Watch, there was an elevation difference of 133 metres across the entire length.

    Time to allow

    Walking the entire length of the Fjellveien hike took me 80 minutes – and that includes stopping a lot for photos and venturing off onto detour paths. You could do it in under an hour if you are in a hurry, or even quicker if you jog the entire length.

    You can do the walk in either direction. Sandviken – Bellevue worked for me, but you can start from Bellevue. I’ve included how to get to both starting points in the next section.

    Getting to Fjellveien

    For my walk, I started Fjellveien on the Sandviken end. You can start on the Kalfaret end, but I found starting at Sandviken a little easier, a prettier direction, and then Kalfaret was easier for me to get back to the city.

    Taking the bus

    To the Sandviken Start

    I took the bus from Bryggen. There are two bus stops (A & B) in front of the wooden houses. These are the buses you can take:

    • 3 towards Støbotn
    • 4 towards Flaktveit
    • 5 towards Åsane Terminal
    • 6 towards Lønborglien
    • 83 towards Øyjorden

    Buses 4, 5 and 6 are the most frequent. Some leave from Bryggen platform A and some leave from Bryggen platform B. All take roughly 7 minutes / 5 stops to Gamle Bergen.

    The stop to get off at is GAMLE BERGEN (like the open air museum!)

    Once off the bus, head up the stairs and follow the road (Sandviksleitet) to the right. You’ll walk through a health centre (helse). Eventually the path will join with Munkebotn (it can be a little confusing; I used Google Maps to get there). Once at Munkebotn, keep following it (don’t go uphill; follow it to the right) until it splits into Fjellveien and Amalie Skrams vei.

    To the Bellevue Start

    The best bus that involves the least walking uphill is Bus 11 towards Starefossen. You can take it from Strandgaten (the stop right in front of the swan pharmacy), Småstrandgaten (close to the old city hall), or from Stadsporten (outside the old city gate). You get off at BELLEVUE, which is right at the beginning of Fjellveien.

    For the walk below, I start from Sandviken.

    Fjellveien Walk

    Beginning: Sandviken

    The walk starts along a very nice shaded path, where you feel like you’re walking in the woods. If you look between the trees to your right, you’ll see lovely views out to the city fjord.

    History of Sandviken

    Fjellveien was built in the late 19th/early 20th centuries by the Forest and Tree Planting Company (Bergen Skog og Taeplantningsselskap). Ole Irgens is often considered the ‘father’ of Fjellveien as he had a lot of input into its construction. At the time, Ole Irgesn was the school inspector of Bergen.

    Here are the stages (according to our walk)

    • Sandviken – Mulen: Built between 1901 and 1906
    • Mulen – Beautification: Built between 11879 and 1882
    • Beautification – Belleveue: Built between 1890 and 1894

    Permisjonsstein: Sandviks Battery Detour

    One of the first detour paths you’ll pass is the one that leads up to Sandviks Battery. It’s a little bit hidden as it’s not so much a path but rather an opening in the woods. The path to Sandviks Battery is relatively unknown; restorations have just been completed. (the local newspaper Bergens Tidende did an article about it here). The Sandviks Battery was built as part of Bergen’s inner fortifications in the late 19th century. Germans used it during World War II and built additional bunkers in the area. The name, “Permisjonsstein”, translates to “Permit Path”. When the soldiers were granted permission to leave, they would take this path down to Bergen.

    Sandviks Battery closed in 1952.

    Sherpas came to restore the path in 2019. They brought in their own equipment and worked to build stone stairs on the path. The path to Sandviks Battery has around 220 steps. It starts out flat, but gets steeper towards the end. If you walk slowly, it’ll take 15 minutes to get the top.

    If you want to do a detour to Sandviks Battery & Stoltzekleiven, see this walking overview (external link). Allow another 1.5 hours to complete this. Click here.

    You can watch a video of the hike up here.

    Old Hydro Plant

    The next point of interest is on your left; this abandoned building looks to be a hydro plant. The sign above the door says “BKK”, which refers to the Norwegian power company Bergenshalvøens Kommunale Kraftselskap. They have 29 hydroelectric plants throughout Western Norway. This building is a transformer station from the 1920s. Its connection to a nearby waterfall follows the old Stoltzekleiven route (see below).   

    Stoltzekleiven

    Stoltzekleiven is a well-known and popular hike amongst locals. In total, the hike has 908 stairs to the top. The elevation is 301.44 metres, the length is 834 metres, and the average elevation is 36%. It is quite a narrow path, and hikers are recommended to walk up only; heading back down via other nearby trails.

    The original trail was part of the Stoltzegården Farmstead; the name “Stoltz” comes from the German family that settled here. Gerhard Stoltz (1833-1907) was a German merchant who took over the farm Frydenlund (located at Gamle Bergen) and made it his year-long residence, renaming the property. He planted the shrubbery area up the mountain. The trail was laid out in 1900 over the old herding path. The spruce and pine trees we see are from 1870.

    Every September is the Stoltzekleiven Opp race. The event runs over two days from 9:15am to 6:15pm and runners go up every 10 seconds. On average, 6,300 people register for the event.

    The current record for men is held by Stian Øvergaard Aarvik (a professional mountain runner) with 7 minutes and 46 seconds. For women, it is held by Kristin Størmer Steira (a cross country skiier who has represented Norway at the Winter Olympics) in 9 minutes and 35 seconds. It takes me 30-45 minutes to do the hike.

    If you want to detour up Stoltzekleiven, walking down is discouraged. The path is too narrow, and locals only walk up.

    You can come back down via Munkebotn (where we started after the bus stop) or Skredderdalen (see further along this walk). You can also walk to Fløyen from the top – this is the easiest but longest walk.

    In 2011, Stoltzekleiven was refurbished with the help of Sherpas.

    White Manor House

    The white house you see here is the Bergen Skipperforenings Skipperhus, or the Bergen Skipper’s Association. The building dates to 1919 and maritime captains from the surrounding area make up the association. A retirement home has also been in here (see marcus.uib.no). In a recent newspaper article, the building has a market value of 43 – 51 million NOK.

    In front of it is another large house with a green tower and orange ceramic roof. Dating back to 1885, this building functioned as a retirement home for factory workers. From at least 2014, it is accommodation for students with a total of 37 apartments in the building (see this newspaper article).

    Christinegård

    Mon Plaisir is a pavilion from the old Christinegård Estate, who owned this property. You can’t see the house from here, but it’s directly below us.

    Christinegård is a “pleasure farm” (kind of like a holiday house) that dates back to the late 17th century. Christine Caspersdatter Middeltorp had the property built after her wealthy merchant husband died in 1694 and left her with a large sum of money. Very little is known about this first home.

    When Christine died in 1706, her daughter inherited the property. She passed it onto her son, Berent Madzen Chairman, whose wife Modesta Hansdatter Chairman, took over the property in 1747. She had the house rebuilt in 1763 with the main facade facing the fjord. According to the fire regulations of 1766, the property had a farmhouse, covenant dwelling, barge, barn and stables. Modesta’s son, Hans Berentsen Chairman, took over the farm in 1783.

    After the death of Hans, Christinegård was sold in 1822 to Dutch Consul general Michael Djurhus Prahl (1781-1851), who had the house completely rebuilt in the 1830s. The new building was two storeys and had the same position as Modesta’s, with the front looking out to the fjord. It was surrounded by a bastion, making the property look like a fortress.

    The front of the house has six pillars and a large porch, and there are window shutters on all the windows. This style gives it a very southern feel.

    Originally the property extended all the way up the mountain, but when Fjellveien was constructed in this area, it cut right through Christinegård’s property. Most of the land was sold off in the 120s to build apartment buildings.

    Christinegård was listed for protection in 1927, and between 1934 and 1958 it was the residence of the bishop. During World War II, Bergen’s commissioner-in-charge held Christinegård, and he held municipal funds in the building. Archaeologist Asbjørn Herteig, known for his work in the Bryggen excavation, took over Christinegård in the late 1950s and his descendants own the property today. It is not open to the public. On Google Maps, the house is now listed as a gallery:

    https://www.gallerichristinegaard.no/

    Mon Plaisir

    Mon Plaisir was built in 1836 for Michael D. Prahl, and ‘mon plaisir’ means ‘my pleasure’. The wooden building is shaped like a small Roman temple. In the photo above, you can see the fortress Sverresborg, built in the late 10th century by Sverre Sigurdsson during the Norwegian civil war. Just behind it is the church on Nordnes, Nykirken. The pink building to the front right is a high school

    The City of Rhododendrons

    The next little section of path has some lovely rhododendrons, which will be in bloom in May/June.

    Once you get past them, be sure to turn back around and you’ll see a sign dedicated to the rhododendrons.

    Mulen River & Water Plant

    Muleven is a river that flows down the mountainside. Originally, it would’ve gone all the way down to the fjord, but today it flows through pipes from Fjellveien downhill. The name refers to a number of mills that were established on the river to make use of the power of the stream for electricity.

    Until 1877, this was the city of Bergen’s northern boundary. This is also the point where Sandvik Mountain (Sandviksfjellet) becomes Fløy Mountain (Fløyfjellet).

    In 1876, the mills and water rights were purchased by the municipality, and four of the five mills were demolished, while the one remaining was in operation until 1912. The municipality planned to use Mulelven for both water and electricity. Mulevannverket (Mule Water Plant) was established to provide the local community with water in homes. Mulevannverket had the ability to supply the whole city with water if the main water plant at Svartdiket was to malfunction.

    Eventually Mulevannverket was taken out of use. Since 1997, Mulelven has not been a source of drinking water.

    It is possible to walk up the path you’ll see in the image to the left of the building. If you walk up there you’ll be able to see Mulelven. I didn’t go too far as I felt the gravel was slippery. You can certainly hear the river, but my photos don’t do the view justice.

    Skredderdalen

    This is also the beginning point of the hike Skredderdalen. Skredderdalen is a steep hike that is seen as an alternative to Stoltzekleiven if you want to get as high but do something a little easier. As you make your way up, you’ll pass the old damn built for the waterworks. The path will lead you to another path that will take you to Fløyen (See the hiking information here). It can also be a path down if you want to go up Stoltzekleiven. Here’s a link to that path.

    Mulen

    We are now in the residential area of Mulen, located between Christinegård and Bergen city centre. The name comes from the mill operations that took place along the river. It’s believed there was a farm here in the 1300s and that livestock were kept on the hillside.

    Inner City Views

    We are now in the city centre of Bergen, where below us will be Bryggen. It’s not visible from the path, though. For a short portion of the walk, you’ll be walking on a road as you cross through the suburb Breistølen. Fjellsiden is a residential area just above Bryggen. It was developed in the 19th century as the city was in desperate need of more housing due to a huge increase in the population. These wooden houses were built in a uniform grid pattern and were apartment buildings. The apartments were tiny; often they’d have one room and may have up to 12 people!

    Today Fjellsiden is a very expensive area of town. Some of these houses are now single residence buildings, but many are still tiny apartments.

    Hesten Trenger Hvile

    The main interjunction that links Fjellveien with Bergen city centre and Fløyen is called hesten trenger hvile, or “horses need rest”. There is a small fountain here as well as a statue of Ole Irgens, the ‘father’ of Fjellveien.

    From here, there are two paths you can take. The first is Tippetue, which is a scenic walk up to the top of Mt. Fløyen and the top station of the Fløibanen. The second is a path down to the city centre; ending somewhere near the Fløibanen lower station.

    Tippetue

    Why the name Tippetue? Well, Tippetue was a town local who lived in Bergen in the last half of the 19th century. He frequented the pub and had outrageous behaviour when he was drunk, so the locals called the area Tippetue. In 1908 the road was finished from Fjellveien to Tippetue, and then a few years later the road was extended up to the top fo Fløyen. (source)

    The walk up to Fløyen takes around 45 minutes and, while Tippetue is the steepest path to Fløyen, I’d say it is easily the most scenic.

    Regarding the walk back down to the city, this can be a way for you to get back to town when you’re finished with Fjellveien if you don’t want to take public transport.

    Skansemyren funicular station

    Not too long after the Tippetue junction you’ll cross paths with the Fløibanen. The stop is called Skansemyren, which is named after the residential area. The area is approximately 180 metres above sea level. There are many homes and apartments here.

    Skansemyren is best known for its communal sports ground, with different training activities taking place here. It is also home to the Tine relay race, which is held every year. The sports ground opened in 1896 with Ole Irgens at the forefront of operations.

    The Fløibanen opened in 1918 as a funicular between Bergen city centre and Fløyen mountain. If you are here on a busy summer day you won’t have to wait long to see the funicular; it runs every few minutes. Be sure to wave!

    From here, Fjellveien turns into a car road and remains this way for the rest of the walk. You’ve also got to be a little careful as there’s two roads in the area: Fjellien and Fjellveien – be sure to stick to Fjellveien.

    Bergen city centre

    The mountains you see (from left to right) are Løvstakken and Damsgårdfjellet. On the far left in the image, you can see the black skyscraper building that is the Bergen Media City. Next to it is the county administration building. Front and centre, towards the bottom of the frame, is the Bergen train station (look for the granite building). To the right is the Lille Lungegård Lake (you can learn more about the lake with my Årstad walking tour) and behind that are the KODE art galleries. To the right you can see the tower of St. John’s Church.

    If you walk along Fjellveien a little further, you’ll get more excellent views down to the city.

    Mt. Ulriken

    This is why I think doing the walk from Sandviken – Bellevue is nicest; you get this amazing reveal of Bergen’s largest of the seven mountains, Mt. Ulriken. Mount Ulriken is 633 metres high and is characterised by its TV tower on top. There is a cable car that will take you to the top of Mt. Ulriken, and it’s also a popular (but difficult) hike.

    Forskjønnelsen (Beautification)

    Beautification is a scenic zig-zag road and park that leads from Kalfaret up to Fjellveien. It was designed as a park in 1799 and has some lovely old villas close by (see my Årstad Walking Tour where I cover this in depth). It was formerly known as Lassens Minde (Lassens Memorial) after the parks designer, Customs Inspector HM Lassen, who also had the bushes and trees planted.

    This is a way back to the city if you wish to use it rather than take a bus back. If you head to the bottom you’ll end up on Kalfvarveien; turn right and you’ll see Stadsporten (The City Toll Gate). A couple minutes walk from there is the Bergen Train Station.

    Kalfaret

    Kalfaret is a suburb just outside the city centre of Bergen and was ‘the country’ (i.e. not part of Bergen) until 1877. The name comes from Calvarieveien (Calvary Road) and refers to the old Catholic tradition of walking around a road that is 1200 steps in length on Good Friday. This is approximately the distance from St. Jacobs Churchyard (next to Stadsporten) up to Kalfartoppen, the highest point in Kalfaret (this is the first portion of the walk we’ll take).

    Starting in the 18th century, a number of country houses were built along Kalfarveien. At the end of the 18th century, a row of Linden Trees were planted along the road, and gradually it was turned into a promenade that became a popular day trip walk with a number of restaurants and cafes along the way.

    In the 19th century, wealthy citizens began to move out of the city centre due to overcrowding and had lovely villas built along the mountainside in Kalfaret. Since then, Kalfaret has been synonymous with ‘wealthy Bergen’.

    Today a lot of the country houses are gone or have been significantly converted, and the large gardens have been filled with modern apartments. Still, we will be able to see some of the old villas from the late 19th century, and there’s also great examples of the Bergen-style houses.

    Bellevue Restaurant

    Lyststedet Bellevue has been a restaurant since 1976, when a gazebo was built here. A prospectus from 1801 shows a midmarket house on the site. It was rebuilt in 1899 as a restaurant, and has been a restaurant ever since. It is typically used for weddings and other celebrations. In earlier times, salutes were fired upon guests’ arrival.

    Today Lyststedet Bellevue is run by Bellevue Restaurant AS, which also runs Fløien Folkerestaurant and Bryggen Tracteursted.

    The business went bankrupt in 2016 and was transferred to another company. As of 2020, their website isn’t live (see here) and the Bellevue Restaurant AS company doesn’t list it on their website.

    Bellevue Restaurant marks the end of our walk!

    How to get back to the city

    Walking

    If you want to walk back to the city, you can follow the Fjellveien hike back to Beautification (if you want to be closer to the train station) or the Tippetue junction (if you want to be closer to Bryggen). You can also take Endregårdsbakken (just after Beautification) to get to the city centre. It will turn into Brattlien and that road will end just above Korskirken.

    Take the bus

    • Walk down Bellevuebakken (it’s to the right of the restaurant if you’re looking at it from Fjellveien).
    • When you reach Gamle Kalvedalsveien, turn left.
    • On your right will be a path down to the main road, Kalvedalsveien. When you get to the bottom, turn right. Shortly on your side of the road will be a bus stop.
    • Take Bus 3 to Støbotn for 8 minutes (6 stops) and you’ll be at Bryggen.

    I hope you enjoyed this walk! As you can probably tell by the amount of photos I took, I loved it. I think it’s a great option for anyone in Bergen who wants to see a lot in a short amount of time. You get a perfect blend of nature and cityscapes, and the walk itself is pleasant.

    Enjoy Fjellveien!