Coastal Ferry Day 10
Brønnøysund & Sandnessjøen
This day is spent sailing along the Helgeland coast.
On this day of sailing...
2:30am - 3:30am
Bodø
12th port - 67.2 degrees north - population 52,357
In the middle of the night the ship will dock in Bodø. There is enough time to get and and go for a walk if you choose to do so. Just exit the ship, turn right, and walk straight for about 10 minutes.
You can read about Bodø on our travel guide page.
Bodø During the Polar Night
Join me for a walk around Bodø in December around the polar night season. This walk was done during the coastal ferry journey when in port.
The Helgeland Traditional Region
Today you will be sailing down the coast of Helgeland. Many Norwegians regard as the most beautiful place in Norway.
Helgeland is characterised by pointing mountains and lowlying beach areas, sometimes just above the sea surface. Many of the settlements are on this lowland. The coatline has thousands of islands. Some islands are very large while others are unique mountains – the Seven Sisters and Torghatten, for example. There are several bird colonies and thousands of puffins. Helgeland was settled during the Viking Age and many of the famous Vikings from that period were here in Helgeland. Helgeland was the scene for Henrik Ibsen’s 1857 historical play called “The Vikings at Helgeland”, whose plot takes place during the time of Eric Blood-axe (930 – 934).
6:25am - 6:35am
Ørnes
13th port - 66.5 degrees north - population 1,652
About Ørnes
Ørnes is the main centre for Meløy municipality. It has been permanently settled since 1610, when a farmer lived and paid taxes here. The growth of Ørnes began in 1794, when a member of the wealthy Benkestok family leased the farm and opened a trading post. The trading post was the basis for Ørnes becoming a town and buildings still stand today from the old trading post – they will be visible from the ship. They include fishermens cabins, boathouses and barns.
It is recommended to wake up early and see Ørnes – it is considered one of the most beautiful ports on Hurtigruten.
10:25am - 10:35am
Nesna
14th port - 66.1 degrees north - population 1,761
About Nesna
The municipality of Nesna stretches out over three islands – Tomma, Hugla and Handesøya. The name ‘Nesna’ doesn’t come from the name of the town but rather the name of the peninsula the town is built on. The coat-of-arms represent a headland surrounded by water. The village of Nesna used to have a college and has been a seat of learning for almost 200 years. Klokkargarden is Norway’s oldest schoolhouse and the Nesna College of Further Education is Northern Norway’s second-oldest higher educational institution.
What You See from the Ship
Nesna Church is a beautiful church that is clearly visible from the ship. The church was built in 1880 in the neo-gothic style and it seats around 480 people. The earliest church was likely standing here in the 15th century, though.
Dønna Island & Bjørn
The island on the starboard right side just before approaching Sandnessjøen is called Dønna. It is a relatively flat and marshy island and is popular for hunting deer, small game, and for fishing. Dønna is also an important historic island; it has been a seat of power and influence since before the Viking Age.
The village on the island that you can see from the ship is called Bjørn. An annual marked has been held here for a long time, and at one point it was Norway’s largest coastal market. Finds of Norwegian, Swedish and Russian coins from the 16th century indicate how old and important the market was. The market had its golden age in the 1870s, when there could be as many as 3000 visitors and 160 houses were used as trade stalls. The market was officially discontinued in 1882 but was revitilised in 1981 and now takes place every second year.
11:45am - 12:15pm
Sandnessjøen
15th port - 66 degrees north - population 6,043
About Sandnessjøen
Sandnessjøen was a small community until the 1870s, when a telegraph company, a bank and a steamship company all opened offices here. The Hurtigruten began calling in 1893 and the municipal centre moved here. Sandnessjøen got a town charter in 1999 and has developed into the communications and administrative hub for the region.
However, Sandnessjøen is also an old place. The Viking Torolv Kveldulvsson, who is mentioned in Egil’s Saga, lived in this region. Torolv and his wife Sigrid had moved here and achieved great power in the region. Torolv was given the right to levy the ‘Finn tax’ for the King (taxes that came from the Sami) and Torolv is the first known exporter of dried fish from Northern Norway. He would send his men to Vågan in Lofoten to fish for cod and then have the fish sent to England. Torolv and Sigrid had their own islands where they collected eggs and harvested feathers and down. However, Torolv and King Harald Hårfagre fell out and Harald had Torolv assassinated. It’s believed the descendants of Torolv are the ones who settled on Iceland. There’s no remains of the old Viking settlement, but there is a recreated Viking longhouse. It’s not visible or walkable from the ship.
Sandnessjøen eventually developed as a place for skippers, with the first-known citizen being a person from Bergen, Peder Nielsen Aars.
Excursions
Hurtigruten
Explore Sandnessjøen Independently
If the ship is on time, you have approximately 20 minutes to go and walk around. This is plenty of time to visit the murals. The artwork is called ‘Future Eyes’ and you can read about it here.
+15 minutes after Sandnessjøen: The Seven Sisters
The Seven Sisters are a row of seven distinctive mountain peaks along the coast. They average around 1000m high and have been the source of many legends.
+50 minutes after Sandnessjøen: Alstahaug
The community of Alstahaug passed on the port left side. Alstahaug is a historic town that is connected with the known poet and priest Petter Dass, who worked at the local church.
Alstahaug Church is one of the three churches from the Middle Ages on Helgeland. The church was built at the end of the 12th century in a romantic style.
3pm - 5:25pm
Brønnøysund
16th port- 65.2 degrees north - population 4,892
About Brønnøysund
Brønnøysund is located in the geographic centre of Norway. It was developed in the early 20th century as a communications hub for coastal traffic. Brønnøysund became its own municipality in 1923, and in 2023 they are celebrating their 100th anniversary.
The name Brunney is first mentioned in 1334 and refers to a spring. In old times, seafarers could find drinking water on the islands here. Brønnøysund is most known to Norwegians, however, for having the Brønnøysund Register, which is where businesses in Norway have to be registered.
Brønnøysund has an airport with connections to surrounding cities and there are bus routes that go up and down the coast.
Excursions
Explore Brønnøysund Independently
You have just over two hours to explore Brønnøysund on your own. There is a lovely walking loop you can do that takes approximately one hour.
+20 minutes after Brønnøysund: Torget and Torghatten
As you approach the mountain Torghatten, pay attention to the village close by. This is Torget, which during the Viking times was the site of one of the most famous chieftain seats. The property was owned by several important Viking chieftains and then by several noble families. It was split into separate plots at the end of the 19th century and developed into the village we see today.
The mountain Torghatten (258m) is one of the most well-known tourist attractions in Central Norway. The mountain is also regarded as one of the world’s most distinctive and well-known mountains. The hole has been created by a weak zone in the mountain, in an area with many fissures and cracks. During the Ice Age several million years ago, the land mass was compressed by the weight of the ice. In the period between the Ice Ages the ocean level rose. Torghatten was formed when the land was 140m – 160m lower than it is today. Waves, tides, ocean currents, ice and frost eroded the mountain. The rock slowly crumbled and the hole formed.
9pm - 9:30pm
Rørvik
17th port - 64.8 degrees north - population 3,226
About Rørvik
Rørvik grew thanks to the increase in steamships going up and down the Norwegian coast. When permanent routes were established along the Norwegian coast, Rørvik was centrally located in active fishing grounds.
Rørvik has an interesting history, which you can read about on our separate travel guide page.
What You See From the Ship
From the ship, you’ll see the coastal museum, Norveg. The museum building is beautiful; it’s designed to look like a sailing ship. You’ll also see the newly constructed Rørvik church.