The History of Stockholm (Summarised)
Stockholm is such a cool city. I’d argue that it is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Thankfully, Sweden was neutral during World War II and therefore the old town of Stockholm remains as one of the best-preserved in all of Europe. But besides maintaining its original look and charm, Stockholm has had a turbulent history affected by unions, wars and plenty of murders. I don’t think any other Nordic capital has so many stories of bloodbaths and murders! Up until very recently, Stockholm was an overcrowded and poor place to live. Now, it has transformed itself into a Green Capital and modern city.
Here’s my summarised version of the history of Stockholm, focusing on places you can see today.
The History of Stockholm
Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Stockholm, including practical information and things to do.
Stockholm During the Viking Age
Not much is known about Stockholm before the city was officially founded, and even that is contested. However, what is known is that the oldest settlement on Lake Mälaren is Birka, about 30 kilometres west of Stockholm. Birka was founded in the 8th century and was a major Viking town. Today Birka is on the UNESCO World Heritage List and is a popular day-trip from Stockholm (It is on my to-do list so I can film it!).
After Birka was abandoned around 975AD, Sigtuna emerged as the Viking capital of Sweden and was also an important missionary outpost and regarded as where Christianity came to Sweden. Again, visiting here is on my to-do list.
But what about Stockholm? It’s not exactly known if people were living here then. The water level of the lake was about five metres higher than it is today. However, the area around Stockholm had settlements and items from the Viking Age, including a sword, have been found around Stockholm.
Stockholm is Officially Founded
According to the Chronicles of Saint Eric, written in the 1320s, Stockholm was founded by Birger Jarl in 1253 as a lock to Lake Mälaren to prevent pirates from reaching the cities around it. The first fortress was built roughly where Stockholm palace is today and was a castle called the Tre Kronor (Three Crowns/Three Kingdoms).
What’s the oldest building in Stockholm? Many claim that it’s Birger Jarl’s tower, located on Riddarholmen Island, but it’s not – it was built as a defence tower in the 1530s. What’s considered to be the oldest building is Riddarholmen Church. Parts of the church are from the 1280s and the church was constructed as a burial church for the royals. Storkyrkan, the main church next to the palace, has remains from the 13th century and was a coronation church.
Riddarholmen Church
Riddarholmen Church is regarded as the oldest building in Stockholm and was where the royals and many prominent citizens were buried. It is today a museum and well-worth a visit!
What Does Stockholm Mean?
The name ‘Stockholm’ is made up of two distinct parts – ‘Stock’ means ‘log’, while ‘Holm’ means ‘islet’. According to a 17th century myth, the population of Birka wanted to found a new settlement, so they floated a log down the lake. It landed on Riddarholmen, where the Tower of Birger Jarl stands.
Stockholm, the Important Trading Port
Shortly after its founding, Stockholm became an important trading port. King Birger Jarl made an agreement with the German Hanseatic League, where he invited them to settle in Stockholm and promised them generous privileges. It was, however, King Magnus Ladulås (1275-1290) who strengthened the relationship with the Hanseatic League.
Stockholm transformed into the central port for all trade on the Gulf of Bothnia. The streets around Gamla Stan were divided into neighbourhoods for different craftsmen and interest groups. Craftsmen lived on Köpmangatan (literally “Merchant Street”), and shoemakers lived on Skomakargatan. Both of those streets are the oldest streets in Stockholm – from 1323 and 1337 respectively. Those working with iron and metals lived on Järntorget (Iron Square). Stortorget (Main Square) became the centre of trade for Gamla Stan.
Stockholm imported salt, spices, beer, wine, clothing, and luxury goods such as silk, weapons of armours. Exports were iron and copper, local hides, dried fish, butter, and fires.
Kalmar Union
In 1380, the three Scandinavian countries entered into a union called the Kalmar Union. How it happened is complicated and is worthy of its own separate article (writing that down for the future!). However, Sweden and Denmark did not get along. Having control of Stockholm was crucial of controlling the kingdom of the Kalmar Union, and many people in Stockholm were against the union. So, this led to around 150 years of battles, fights and blockades.
Life in Stockholm during the Kalmar Union was tough. There were a large number of Finns and Germans here and the Germans especially had a very strong position in Stockholm. In the city council half of the members had to be German. The Hanseatic League grew in importance here. Eventually, due to fires, Stockholm starts to get more houses in stone.
Fun fact – no other countries have gone to ware against each other as much as Denmark and Sweden.
After many fights between Denmark and Sweden, Sten Sture the Elder, a Swedish statesman, defeated the Danish King Christian I of Denmark at the Battle of Brunkeberg in 1471. He held Stockholm for only six years before losing the city to Hans of Denmark. Sten managed to get power back in 1501, but this resulted in a Danish blockade lasting 1502-1509. Hans’ son, Christian II of Denmark, continued the ambitions of his father and made failed attempts to conquer the city in 1517 and 15718. He finally got Stockholm and forced Queen Christina Gyllenstierna, who was leading the resistance, to capitulate in 1520. The archbishop Gustav Trolle crowned Christian the King of Sweden.
St. George & The Dragon
One of the most famous statues in Stockholm is that of St. George and the Dragon. The original statue is in Storkyrkan, while there is a copy in Gamla Stan. Sten Sture the Elder is represented as St. George, while the dragon represents Denmark.
Stockholm Bloodbath
The Stockholm Bloodbath is one of the most famous events in Swedish history. After Christian II of Denmark took Stockholm in 1520, he invited all the nobles and burghers to a feast. They had all been against him, so either he was trying to make amends, or something bad was about to happen.
Considering the title of this section, you probably know where this is going!
All the attendees of the feast were imprisoned, and a council, headed by Archbishop Trolle, sentenced them to death for being heretics. About 82 people were executed. It’s believed that Christian II also had Sten Sture’s body dug up and burnt, as well as the body as his child. Sten’s widow and many noblemen were taken prisoner in Denmark.
Gamla Stan Houses
It is said that each stone on the iconic red house in Gamla Stan represents one of the victims.
Gustav Vasa Takes Stockholm
Gustav Vasa was a son of one of the victims of the executions. After hearing of the massacre, he gathered support and led a revolt, in which he was able to defeat the Danish forces during the Swedish War of Liberation. This permanently separated Sweden from Denmark. At the time he conquered the city, he noted that every second building was abandoned.
When Gustav Vasa became king, he brought in many reforms to break the political power of bishops in Sweden. He also demolished monasteries and built defence facilities. As the Bloodbath had killed many of the city’s prominent citizens, the King was able to appoint magistrates as he wished and therefore controlled the city. He also brought the Reformation to Stockholm.
16th Century Growth
Stockholm’s social and economic importance began to grow quickly. By controlling trade from Stockholm, the king effectively controlled national trade. Lubeck remained the most important trading partner and German influence was more tangible than before, with low German being a common language in Stockholm. In the 1570s, the population was about five times as many as in Uppsala, Sweden’s then second-largest city.
When Eric XIV, son of Gustav Vasa, was crowned King in 1561, the title became hereditary and the kingdom was now financed by taxes.
The Swedish Empire
The Swedish Empire (1611 – 1718) is a period of history in which Sweden controlled large parts of the Baltic and was viewed as one of the great European powers. In Stockholm, the city grew sixfold and many of its current streets were laid out.
At the beginning of the 17th century, Stockholm was still a medieval city with narrow alleyways and simple wooden houses. The Stockholm environment was so shabby that people were embarrassed when foreigners were invited to the city in connection with Gustav II’s funeral in 1634. They were worried that the sight of Stockholm would ruin Sweden’s international authority. So, this is where we see many new brick buildings in European styles being built.
Speaking of Gustav II (the grandson of Gustav Vasa), he is the one who commissioned the ill-fated Vasa warship in 1624. The ship sunk on its maiden voyage in 1628.
Vasa Museum
The Vasa Ship is one of the most important pieces from Stockholm’s history and you can see the ship at the Vasa Museum.
Fires & Reconstruction
Throughout the 17th century, Stockholm was modernised. However, this started largely thanks to a number of major fires the city experienced. New boulevard streets were created and the medieval wall was replaced with a row of palaces that became known as Skeppsbron.
In 1697, the castle was destroyed by fire. It was rebuilt immediately and completed in the 1750s. Builders and architects from France who had recently worked on Versailles were brought in to design the new palace.
Stockholm was still largely dependent on trade and ships passing through the city. Stockholm lacked the resources, such as livestock, to support themselves. All goods brought to Stockholm had to pass through one of six custom stations, generating income for the city.
In the 1630s and 1640s the neighbourhoods of Norrmalm and Södermalm begin to be developed. New wide streets were laid out inspired by the Renaissance, and to make these new streets hundreds of houses and farms were demolished. Considering the size of the city, it was a transformation that was far greater in scope than the transformation that came in the 1950s-1970s, which we’ll get to later.
Södermalm
Södermalm is today one of the hippest neighbourhoods in Stockholm, but it is also one of the few places in the city where you can see historic wooden houses. Follow my walking tour below!
The Age of Liberty
Due to several major losses at war, Sweden’s role as a major European power was over, and in the 18th century many disasters happened.
Wars and alcohol led to a surplus of women in the city. Stockholm also had an absence of children, caused by the high number of unmarried people and high infant mortality. There was economic segregation in the city.
The mercantile model developed, with domestic production promoted by lows and import limited to raw materials not available in Sweden. This led to the rise of the Skeppsbro Nobility, the wealthy wholesalers at Skeppsbron in Gamla Stan who made a fortune delivering bar iron to the international market. The Swedish East India Company was important to Stockholm as it led to a rise in shipbuilding yards and exotic products being available. However, with up to 150 men per ship and a single trip to China taking up to 2 years, it made a huge impact on Stockholm and the lack of men in the city.
After more fires, building codes were established and wooden buildings were prohibited. We start to see more monumental buildings in this period, such as the Stock Exchange building from the 1770s (now the Nobel Museum).
Gustavian Era & Grand Buildings
Under Gustav III (1772-1809), the Enlightenment came to Stockholm. The King had great interest in the city’s development and created the Gustav Adolf Square and had the Royal Opera inaugurated there. On the king’s initiative, Haga Park, the Academy of Music, the Painting and Sculptor Academy, the Swedish Theatre, the Royal Ballet, the Swedish Academy and the Academy of History and the History of Antiquities were added.
The neoclassical Norrbro bridge was completed and led to people beginning to move out of the city.
The period ended when King Gustav III was executed at the Royal Opera he created, and King Gustav IV was deposed in 1809 in a coup d’etat, the same year Sweden lost Finland. This meant that Stockholm ceased to be the geographical centre of the Swedish kingdom.
The Industrial Era
At the turn of the 19th century, most people still lived at Gamla Stan. Norrmalm was still the wealthy part of town and Södermalm was still working class with the outskirks not having water or sewerage systems. The mortality rate in Stockholm was very high, with every third child dying before the age of one. The population was around 71,000. In the 1860s, these neighbourhoods were re-designed with parks and esplanades inspired by the Champs Elysees.
In the second half of the 19th century, Stockholm regained its economic role. New industries emerged and Stockholm was transformed into an important trade centre. During the 1850s and 1860s, gas works, sewerage, and running water were introduced. Streets were paved and the railway came to Stockholm with the central station being completed in 1871.
Urban development was notable in central Stockholm, where several prominent neo-Renaissance buildings were built. Towards the 1880s, many monumental brick buildings were built, including Gamla Riksarkivet (The National Archives) building.
In the 1880s and 1890s, the new district Östermalm emerged, with new luxurious buildings.
By the end of the century, the population had exploded to 245,000.
The Early 20th Century
During World War I, construction practically stopped. Shortly after the war, Sweden was incredibly overcrowded.
The Stockholm City Hall was completed in 1923. This is where the annual Nobel Banquet is held. The building became one of Sweden’s foremost buildings from the National Romantic Era.
Stockholm City Hall
Stockholm City Hall is an impressive building to visit and is open for tours all year round.
Modernism had its breakthrough in the early 1930s. New houses were built in the Stockholm suburbs and they all came with heating, a private bathroom, flushing toilet, hot and cold water, and a modern kitchen.
World War II
Stockholm was largely unaffected by World War II, making it one of the best-preserved European capitals.
Into Modern Times
In the late 20th century, Stockholm became a modern, technologically advanced, and ethnically diverse city.
Between the 150s and 1970s, practically the whole of the neighbourhood Norrmalm was torn down and rebuilt in the functionalist style of architecture. Click here to see an example. It was heavily criticised at the time and maybe many today think the modern buildings are not so nice. However, a big reason for doing this was to build the subway through Stockholm, which opened in 1950.
In 1967, all of Stockholm (and Sweden) changed from driving on the left to driving on the right.
On 12 February 1986, Swedish Prime Minister Olof Palme was shot dead at the Sveavågen-Tunnelgatan intersection. The investigation became Sweden’s largest and most expensive ever and is not yet solved.
In 2006, the Stockholm trial begin. It was a trial of introducing a congestion tax for car traffic in the city, together with expanded public transportation. A referendum following the trial led to its permanent status on 1 August 2007. In 2010, Stockholm was the European Capital of the Environment.
That about wraps up all I had to say about the history of Stockholm. I hope this overview helps you understand the city better when you visit for yourself!
Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Stockholm, including practical information and things to do.
