Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Jæren

    Varhaug Old Cemetery

    Varhaug Old Churchyard is one of the highlights of the National Tourist Road for Jæren and the historic hiking path Kongevegen.

    This is probably one of the most scenic spots on the road, and understandably so. After all, Varhaug is considered to be the most photogenic cemetery in all of Norway! Situated close to the North Sea, this cemetery overlooks the water on a flat, grassy plain. The tiny white chapel stands out in the distance, as does the iron grave monuments.

    This article is part of:

    About Varhaug

    Distance to Stavanger: 46.7km (29.9 miles) / 46 minutes
    Distance to Egersund: 39.2km (24.3 miles) / 38 minutes

    First off, lets talk about the nearby village of Varhaug. After all, this is where the cemetery gets its name.

    Varhaug is the second largest village along the Jæren coast and is the administrative centre for the Hå Municipality.

    While people have lived here for thousands of years, the village wasn’t founded until the late 19th century. Varhaug expanded quickly thanks to the construction of the train station along the Jærbanen, or Jæren Trainline. Why it was decided to build a train station in what was a scattered farming settlement is unknown, but nonetheless Varhaug got a train station. Perhaps it’s because the farms close to the sea, as in Varhaug, have traditionally been wealthy and important to Jæren.

    Above all, the Jæren coast is flat. That’s what makes it unique. Varhaug is actually the highest village on the coast, with an elevation of 40-60m (130-200ft).

    Agriculture has historically been the backbone of the region. However, it has gradually become less important as the village developed and Norway modernised. Agriculture is still important, but today the municipality is the largest employer. Another important company is Fjordkjøkken AS, a company that makes dinner meals for the Norwegian brand Fjordland. Some people commute to Stavanger for work.

    At the moment, Varhaug is having a problem with growth. The surrounding agricultural land is considered some of the best in the country, and there’s a resistance to building new homes on top of it. Moreover, the land is important to Norway’s food supply. At the moment the future of the village is unknown; one possibility is to build apartments. However, that will affect the natural landscape.

    The population of Varhaug is 3,239.

    The Historic Churches

    The site of the present-day cemetery is where the historic church used to stand. There have been at least three churches here. A stave church came first; likely built around the year 1200. Sadly, the stave church was demolished in the mid-17th century to make way for a more modern church. That church fell into disrepair and became a private property in 1725. A new church replaced it in 1828 – the architect is Hans Linstow, who also designed the Palace in Oslo. They demolished this church in 1905 when Varhaug’s present-day church was completed in the village. This old church site was just too far away.

    Varhaug Church in 1837: Click here to view a drawing of the church dated to 1837.

    The current chapel is from 1951. It has some features of the old churches. The highlight are the church bells inside the chapel; these date back to 1791. Additionally, the sculpture Sapienta (wisdom) is preserved. The sculpture is from 1650-1720. According to the Stavanger Museum, where the sculpture is on display, it likely came from one of the first churches.

    Factory owner Asbjørn Stueland commissioned the chapel. It is 15m2 wide and has 14 wicker chairs to sit on. The chapel is popular with weddings.

    Varhaug Cemetery

    Varhaug cemetery is ancient. In fact, it’s believed that the original site was an important pagan worshipping site. That lends itself to the fact that a stave church stood here in the early years of Christianity. Typically, stave churches stood on pagan sites to show the new religion. Some of the graves date back to the Middle Ages.

    This ancient cemetery is often described as the most beautiful cemetery in the country. This is due to its close position to the sea.

    Today Varhaug Old Cemetery is a protected as a cultural monument.

    Varhaug Old Cemetery
    The Russian memorial is visible to the right – it looks like an onion dome.

    Russian Shipwreck

    One of the coast’s most known shipwrecks took place here in 1842. A ship called ‘Ingermanland’, a Russian ship, encountered storms in the area and ran aground. After grounding, the sea lifted it up and drifted west with the wind. After drifting for 10 hours, it came ashore again. By then, the ship was completely wrecked. 503 people were rescued from the ship and 387 died. Among the dead were 21 women and 7 children.

    A memorial for those who perished is at the cemetery.

    Read more: English Wikipedia

    Kongevegen

    The cemetery is part of the historic Kongevegen route. This is an old road between Stavanger in the north and Ogna in the south. The name (English: King’s Way/King’s Road) is from a 17th century royal decree ordering farmers to provide a cart road along the coast. At the time, Norway had very few roads. The road was used by royals, farmers, and even pilgrims.

    During the 19th century, the road moved inland to the present-day highway. Additionally, Kongevegen was abandoned when the railway opened.

    Today Kongevegen is a popular walking path. Moreover, it is possible to see traces of the historic road as you walk along it.

    My Thoughts

    We stopped at the Varhaug cemetery very quickly. I didn’t walk all the way up to the chapel, as the most scenic shots seem to be from further away. I did find it beautiful to stop at, but it’s only necessary to stop here for a few minutes.

    Practical Info

    Address: Sør-varhaug 71, 4360 Varhaug

    It appears in Google Maps as Varhaug Gamle Gravlund and Varhaug gamle kirkegård.

    Parking: Dedicated carpark with free parking

    Cost: Free

    Signs: The cemetery has road signs pointing to it. There are no English information boards; just a stone written in Norwegian.

    Resources

  • Jæren

    Obrestad Lighthouse in Jæren

    The Norwegian coastline is littered with lighthouses. Many of them are simple, uninteresting modern lighthouses, but the older ones often have a story to tell. If you’re doing the Jæren Scenic Drive in Southern Norway, there’ll be some great lighthouses to see. Obrestad lighthouse is one of them!

    I visited Obrestad Lighthouse in September 2020. Here is my overview of the lighthouse’s history and present-day use.

    Obrestad Lighthouse

    The view from the lighthouse

    Location & Building Style

    The Obrestad lighthouse sits on a promontory about 5km (3.1 miles) west of the town of Nærbø. The name of the lighthouse comes from the farm it is sitting on. ‘Obre’ means ‘float’ or ‘flow’ and ‘stad’ can mean ‘place’. It is close to Obrestad, a small farming village. A harbour was constructed here in 1874 and is still in use today. The Obrestad Harbour is the first artificial harbour in Jæren. Moreover, 1845 a sea rescue station for seafarers opened here, and it was in use until 1977. During the war, the harbour was a meeting place for the resistance movement, and boats transported people to Scotland.

    Obrestad’s History

    Obrestad is mentioned in the Viking Sagas. Erik Bjodskalle, a known chieftain, had his farm here around 950 AD. He is the father of Queen Astrid, who is the mother of the famous Viking King Olav Tryggvason. Astrid and Olaf sought refuge in Obrestad before heading east.
    The present structure of the lighthouse is from 1950, though it was first built 1873. The square granite tower is 16.5m (54ft) tall and is next to a 1.5m granite lighthouse keepers home. It’s rare to find a lighthouse keepers home built in granite in Norway. The reason for this is that when it came time to built Obrestad lighthouse, the lighthouse service was tired of maintaining small wooden houses. Small wooden houses were continuously damaged by the elements, and maintenance was expensive.

    Granite was an experimental construction material. Additionally, they used brick and concrete. When the building was finished, they quickly realised that the materials are very cold and damp to live in. The new lighthouse keepers home is from 1905.

    The lighthouse sits at an elevation of 39m (128ft) above sea level. The light emits a continuous white light with an intensity of 129,900 candela with a more intense white flash every 30 seconds. The lighthouse emits a racon signal: the morse cod letter O.

    Coastal area

    History of Obrestad Lighthouse

    The North Sea is rough around the Jæren coast, and the rocky Varhaug Beach is notorious for shipwrecks. The waves are so strong that in told times the waves were a great way to turn ships into scrap. If you need to get rid of your ship, simply leave it on the beach in autumn. Throughout winter, the storms will take care of it. When you return in spring, you’ll have a pile of scrap ready to sell.

    Click here to view an image of the lighthouse around 1900

    Obrestad Lighthouse was originally built in 1873 to make the coast safer. For the first thirty years, the light source was an oil burner with a wick. In 1902 a petroleum glow burner replaced the oil burner, giving a far stronger light. In 1916, the lighthouse was electrified and they added a fog signal.

    During the Second World War, the lighthouse was part of the Germans’ defence. They built a lookout tower and bomb shelters. Additionally, military personnel lived in the homes.

    After the war, the granite building became the machine house. The lighthouse was moved to a concrete tower. After being decommissioned and automated in 1991, it was empty until the municipality bought it.

    Obrestad Lighthouse Today

    In 2006, the Hå Municipality purchased the lighthouse from the Norwegian Coastal Administration. The goal is to preserve the history and culture of the facility.

    Today Obrestad lighthouse is a lighthouse museum. It’s possible to rent out the keepers home or three other units as accommodation. There’s also one house that is available to rent for parties. The buildings consist of a lighthouse keepers house, outbuilding, service house and family house. They are around a square yard.

    The lighthouse is close to the Hå gamle prestegard. This is a historic vicarage from at least 1637, though possibly older. Since 1997, the municipality owns the property. It is a gallery for contemporary artists from Norway and abroad. Close to the prestegard is a burial ground from the Viking Age.

    Obrestad lighthouse is on ‘Kongevegen’, an old royal road. It is a marked coastal path that passes attractions, burial grounds and ancient traces of settlement. Obrestad lighthouse is also part of the coastal pilgrims route to Trondheim.

    Kongevegen Coastal Walk: Click here
    Pilgrims Coastal Route: Click here

    My Thoughts

    I enjoyed visiting this lighthouse. The surrounding area is especially scenic and great for photography. The road to the lighthouse is very narrow and a little confusing. While many may skip this lighthouse and go to the more famous Kvassheim lighthouse, I am glad we stopped at Obrestad.

    Resources

  • Jæren

    Orre Old Church

    Emma

    Orre Old Church is a historic stone church located along the Jæren Scenic Road in Southern Norway. It is the oldest building in the surrounding area. We visited the church as part of our road trip through Norway. It was a short visit, mostly because there were no clear marking on how to walk up to the church. Moreover, the church is located seemingly on private property – it was a little awkward parking in someones driveway to visit a church! Still, if you get the chance to visit, there’s something special about this church.

    In this article...

    The Fv44 Highway

    Ore Old Church is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of the Church

    Orre Old Church in 1912 (Source)

    The first mention of the church is in the year 1448, but the church is likely from before then. It’s believed that the church is from the year 1250 and built according to designs from English monks. The thick walls are soapstone which are then plastered and painted white.

    Very little is known of the historical use of the church.

    Church Renovations

    In 1865, the church underwent major renovation. One of the extensions is the wooden choir, as well as the small porch on the west entrance.

    During the renovations, the historic stone arch windows were removed and much larger square windows were added. This greatly changed the appearance of the building. Additionally, the wooden extension and the new windows badly damaged the church.

    Embalmed corpses were discovered buried under the church. They are very well preserved. The corpses were reburied under the new altar when the renovation was complete.

    Orre Old Church is in the middle of a cemetery. The cemetery likely has a number of graves, but no monument or gravestone is preserved from the old times.

    Orre Church Today

    Orre Old Church

    The church was the town’s church until 1950, when the new Orre Church was ready. The new church can be seen in Pollestad, the nearby village.

    Today the church is a museum but also occasionally used for services and weddings.

    Orre Old Church seen from the road (Google Maps screenshot)

    Visiting the Church

    Orre Old Church is located on the national tourist road through Jæren. The church is not marked along the road; but it is on Google Maps. The church parking is on a farm property – I remember when we arrived the farmer was trying to leave with his tractor!

    The Fv44 Highway

    Ore Old Church is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Jæren

    Norway’s Stonehenge: Domsteinane in Southern Norway

    Emma

    If you’re driving south from Stavanger along the coast, I highly recommend a quick stop at Norway’s Stonehenge: Domsteinane. It’s a mysterious and strange ancient monument that is yet to be answered. We stopped there on our Jæren Scenic Drive, and while it wasn’t a long stop, it was a lot of fun.

    Information on Domsteinane is scarce – you’ll see why – but I’ve tried to compile the most important bits to know before your visit.

    In this article...

    The Fv44 Highway

    Domsteinane is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Historical Mentions of Domsteinane

    The first historical mention of Domsteinane is in 1745. County Governor Bendix Christian de Finn wrote about it in his description of Stavanger:
    “on a flat plane above Sola beach stands very neatly a precise circle about 64m in circumference upright 24 grey stones. [It’s] like small bauta stones, where in between each of the high stone lies. In the middle of the circle you can see an obvious flat grey stone, like a table, and two large white stones to it on.”

    The next mention doesn’t come until the 1860s. Nicolay Nicolaysen writes that it was not possible to find the place Bendix wrote about:
    “About half a quarter from Solegårdene and about halfway between these and the south-facing farm Reke, there is a supposedly wrongly named Thingsted. However, since about 1790 has been completely hidden by sand, so that not even its place can be proven. Only of Finn description from 1745, according to which consisted of a circle, about 34 cubits in diameter, with an upright square stone in the middle and 24 similar stones around “.
    There are so many more written descriptions of the site. I’ve listed them in the resources below. Still, the monument was scarcely or accurately written about. Finn’s description has later been questioned and even discredited by some historians.

    Due to the elements (it is close to a beach), sand covered the stone circle. It remained hidden between the mid-18th and late 19th centuries. Additionally, it is exposed to erosion. Over time the locals took the stones to use on their properties as furniture, fences, and so on. By 1924, the stones were gone from the site.

    Discovering Domsteinane

    After an initiative from the Sola Historical Society, the Rogaland City Council has reconstructed the monument. The stones in the circle are for the most part the same original stones. The council gathered them back from the neighbours. The reconstruction is based on earlier descriptions and mentions. The site opened to the public in 2008. It took some time due to finding the specific location in a very dense pine forest. Then, they had to clear the forest.

    Possible Meanings

    Domsteinane is one of Norway’s most mysterious and strange monuments. No one knows for sure what it is or the meaning behind it. These kinds of stone circles are uncommon in Norway. This is probably the most peculiar stone circle in Scandinavia.

    Generally, stone circles like this can be linked to tomb stones or sacred places. Stone rings in Scandinavia are often associated with funerals. Graves are commonly found within the rings. However, no graves have been found in Domsteinane. It’s suggested that rituals took place here in the Viking Age.

    Some locals believe the stone circle is linked to Erling Skjalgsson and is his courthouse. In Nicolay’s description, he mentioned that the stone circle was (incorrectly) called Tingstedet; ‘ting’ is an old word for a council. Moreover, it’s accepted that Domsteinane is from before his time. Several stone rings in Norway date from the older Iron Age (500BC – 550AD), so Domsteinane may be from this time.

    What is It?

    Domsteinane is a circular shape of stones. There are eight symmetrical ‘spokes’ that may represent the sun, the wheel of life, or possibly a place for worshipping. The stone circle has a diameter of 22.5m and consists of 24 outer stones at 1-1.2 metres high. In the middle is a white flat stone, indicating that it is an altar.

    Practical Information

    Domsteinane has no address, but it is visible and searchable on Google Maps. Moreover, the road it’s on does not have a name.

    There is a small carpark located in front of the monument. Parking is free. It’s a short walk to the site, but keep in mind there’s no footpath so it might be muddy.

    An information board in Norwegian, English and German stands outside the site. Moreover, it has an image of what they think Domsteinane was used for.

    Resources

    The Fv44 Highway

    Domsteinane is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Jæren, Southern Norway

    Tracing the Vikings at the Sola Ruin Church

    Tracing the Vikings at the Sola Ruin Church

    Back in September 2020, the husband and I did a 10-day roadtrip around Norway. After leaving Stavanger, we drove south along the Jæren Scenic Road. While finding our way to the start of the road, we came across signs leading to this church. I hadn’t read up on it beforehand, but I never say no to a historic site photo-stop. And I’m so glad we decided to stop at the Sola Ruin Church (Sola Ruinkyrkje).

    This historic church is located in Sola Municipality just outside Stavanger. The church was active from 1150 – 1842 before being converted into a private residence. During the war, the Germans destroyed it. The church has since been restored, and now its history is being uncovered. Interestingly, the history is very closely linked with the Viking Age.

    In this article, I’ll go over the area and the history of the church, plus the Vikings it has been linked with. 

    In this article...

    The Fv44 Highway

    Sola Ruin Church is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Sola Municipality

    The area around Sola is rich in historic sites. Above all, Rich grave finds, ancient monuments and traces of large farms are from the Stone Age, Bronze Age and Viking Age. Moreover, all the finds show that Sola was a rich and important place. Sola was home to many powerful men during the Viking Age. It’s also believed that the unification of Norway took place on an island in Sola.

    Today Sola is known for Stavanger Airport, which occupies a very large area of Sola. Norwegian Air has its technical base in Sola. Sola also has a large container port at Risavika. Several oil companies have their Norwegian head office in Sola. Above all, Sola is an important agricultural municipality. There is the production of dairy products, meat, vegetables, strawberries and cucumbers.

    Erling Skjalgsson

    Erling pictured at his death

    It’s good to know a little about Erling Skjalgsson, especially since he’ll be mentioned quite a bit. Erling Skjalgsson (960-975 to 1027-1028) was a ruler of southern Norway. He is also the brother in law of Olav Tryggvason, who founded Trondheim. Historians aren’t 100% sure about where he lived, but most believe it was on Sola on a farm near the church. Others think he lived in Stavanger.

    Moreover, Erling aligned himself with Olav Tryggvason and received a large chunk of southern Norway to rule. After Olav was killed in battle, the leaders split Norway into three, which served Erling well. However, when Olav Haraldsson arrived in 1015, he had plans to rule the entire country.

    Erling continued to enforce his power on southwest Norway. King Olav tried to split his powers by introducing new men to control the area. However, they were quickly pushed out by Erlings men. In 1027, Erling went to England to get the support of Canute the Great. Erling returned in 1028 and rallied an army with the intent of fighting Olav. However, Erling was trapped on a ship by King Olav’s fleet in the Battle of Boknafjorden near Bokn in Rogaland. The ship overturned and the men captured Erling. As Olav was about to pardon Erling, one of Olav’s men cut off Erling’s head with an axe.

    According to the sagas, King Olav said to the killer “you feel! Now you hewed Norway off my hands!” the kings prediction came true. Backed by Canute the Great, Erling’s allies went on to drive Olav out of the country. They killed him at the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030.

    Sola Ruin Church & Christianity in Sola

    Christianity in Sola

    Comparatively, christianity came to Sola early. There are few pagan mounds from the 10th century here, especially when compared to other parts of Norway. This indicates that ancient customs had already given way to Christianity.

    Several large stone crosses from this period still stand – there are two on Tjora (the largest is 2.2m high). I’m so sad I didn’t know about these before renting a car and driving through Norway. It’s on the ‘next time’ list for sure. Anyway, the crosses are from the 10th century. There used to be three stone crosses; one is now in a museum in Bergen.

    Moreover, Erling Skjalgsson converted to Christianity to marry Astrid Tryggvesdatter, sister of Olav Tryggvason. According to the saga, Olav wanted a council (ting) set up as soon as he came to Sola to christianise the area. They picked out the three most eloquent peasants to speak out against Olav christianising them. When Olav showed up, they confronted him. The first did not say a word. The other suddenly became dumb, and the third was so hoarse that no one heard him. Therefore, there was no resistance to Olav and everyone in the council was baptised before Olav left.

    Monument to Erling Skjalgsson and Astrid Tryggvesdatter

    History of the Church

    It’s possible that the predecessor to this church was a stave church. Some historians believe Erling Skjalgsson built the church in connection with his farm. The location of the church has a view towards Sola Beach, the sea, and Hafrsfjord. Erling died in 1028. After Erling died, his relatives are documented with building stone churches in the area. However, Sola Ruin Church is been dated to between 1120 and 1130. Above all, this is around the same time other stone churches in southern Norway were built. Since Erling was killed 100 years before that, Sola ruin Church is not his church. Still, it’s possible that the predecessor was his church. Sadly, the ground where the ruins would’ve been was destroyed by the artist when he moved in (more on that soon). The artist also removed the tombs in the nave.

    The stone crosses, churches and cemeteries in Sola testify not only to a dense settlement during the Viking Age but also great people coming here. Additionally, there was great wealth in the area. The land in Jaeren and Sola is among the best agricultural land in Norway. Additionally, the area is close to the North Sea and trade routes, making it great for Viking expeditions.

    Most importantly, Sola Church was in use until 1842.

    You can see an image of the church in ruins in the 19th century here: https://digitaltmuseum.no/021018297305/postkort-med-motiv-av-sola-ruinkirke

    “Naval Battle of Madagascar”

    Private ownership

    In 1871, painter Johan Bennetter bought the church ruin. He converted it into a provide home with a studio. In 1907, the Bennetter family moved into a new house built into the garden south of the church. The house is no longer standing.

    Johan Bennetter (1822-1904) is a Norwegian naval painter in the Hague and Paris. He returned to Norway in 1880 to decorate his home and studio in Sola’s old church. His most famous work is ‘Naval Battle of Madagascar’, owned by the National Gallery. Above all, as a naval painter, he is recognised for his lifelike waves.

    You can see what the church looked like as a house here: https://www.solahistorielag.no/events/bennetter-og-hellandfamilienes-dype-spor-pa-sola-innen-kunst-kultur-og-arkitektur-ved-arvid-baerheim/

    World War II

    On the day of occupation, 9 April 1940, the Germans took control of Sola Airport. It was as one of the most important bases in Norway. The Germans believed that the church could be used by the Allies as an approach target. Because of this, they demolished the church. Moreover, they left the remains on the site as a large stone mound. Fortunately, the Germans marked each stone and where it had stood in the church.

    Sola Ruin Church
    Sola Ruin Church from the front – me in reflection for scale 😉

    Restoring the Church

    In 1982, the Sola Municipality and the National Heritage Board began the restoration. It started with an archaeological excavation of the church ruin in 1986. Above all, the excavation found 31 graves, some inside the church and others outside. The tower was not touched by Benneter, and graves lay in the tower. The most important was one of a 60 year old woman who was in a spacious, iron-clad pine coffin. She was wrapped in textiles and leather.

    Moreover, two post-holes were found that date back to 595AD – 670AD and the other from 650-760AD. Both came long before the Viking Age. Moreover, Archaeologists also looked into the carpark area and found two fireplaces that date back to 660-1020 AD. One of them fits in with the Viking times. It indicates that there were buildings here in the Viking age. This is possibly where Erling Skjalgsson lived.

    In 1992, the church was restored after an architectural competition to its present form. They have put glass on the missing sections, creating a unique appearance.

    Not much from the church is preserved. There is a soapstone coffin from the Middle Ages. It is part of the collection of the Bergen Museum.

    Sola Ruin Church
    Sola Ruin Church

    The church today

    The church is used every year when the mayor of Sola municipality awards the Human Rights Prize for the Nordjæren region in the church. This usually takes place on UN day on 24 October. The prize consists of a sculpture of the Erling Skjalgsson monument, a diploma, and 25,000 NOK. It is distributed to an institution, organisation or individual in the region who has made an effort to promote work on the knowledge of human rights.

    The church is very popular for weddings and concerts. It has a capacity of 68 people. Moreover, when it’s not rented out, it’s possible to book a guided tour of the church.

    A monument to Erling Skjalgsson stands outside the church.

    Practical Information

    Address & Getting There

    Bautavegen 10, 4050 Sola

    Signs? Yes – they say ‘Sola Ruinkyrkje’

    Note – the church is located on a sleepy residential street. Please be respectful of the neighbours! The roads are narrow. Moreover, it’s important to note that “Sola Ruin Church” is not the same as the nearby “Sola Church”.

    Parking

    Free parking. The carpark is located a short walk from the church.

    Restrooms

    No restrooms.

    Walks

    If you’ve got some time to spare, there’s a walking route around Sola. It will take you past some of the historic monuments mentioned above. What’s great about Sola is that it has a flat landscape, making the walk very pleasant.

    You can read about the walk here: https://ut.no/turforslag/1112746/solaturen (it’s in Norwegian but translates easily)

    Information Sign

    Information sign

    There is an information board in Norwegian with a summary in English. It also has images of the church throughout history.

    Final Thoughts

    The church is a real delight, especially when kickstarting a drive through southern Norway. However, I’m a little sad to see just how much the church has been affected by history. Very little of the historic Viking church remains, so it serves as a gentle reminder that history is worth preserving.

    If you’re in the area, it’s well worth stopping by. The visit will be quick but you’ll get some lovely photos.

    The Fv44 Highway

    Sola Ruin Church is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Stavanger

    Visiting Sverd i Fjell (Swords in Rock) in Stavanger

    Visiting Sverd i Fjell (Swords in Rock) in Stavanger

    One of the most popular images of Stavanger is this iconic three Vikings swords in a rock by a fjord. You’ll see it everywhere; postcards, magnets, brochures, and so on. It’s called Sverd i fjell in Norwegian, which translates to ‘Swords in the Rock’ in English. Moreover, the monument commemorates a famous battle that took place in Stavanger. It’s a must see! I got a chance to see sverd i fjell in September 2020. I’ve put together a practical guide for visiting this monument.

    In this article...

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Where is Sverd i Fjell?

    Sverd i fjell is on a bay at the end of the Hafrsfjord. The Hafrsfjord is 9km (5.6 miles) long and separates the Stavanger and Sola municipalities. The name comes from an old Norse word, with ‘hafr’ meaning ‘male goat’ and ‘fjord’ meaning, well, fjord. It’s thought that ‘harf’ is the name of a skerry at the entrance to the fjord.

    Moreover, it’s believed that people have lived along this fjord for thousands of years. One of the discoveries in the area is a petroglyph dating to the Bronze Age. Most importantly, the whole area is rich in ancient monuments.

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    The bay area is Møllebukta. The name refers to a mill (mølle) as this area is historically where a corn mill was located. Moreover, the park is from the 18th century, and the 100m (330ft) beach is a popular swimming spot in the summer months.

    The position and distance from Stavanger is outlined in the ‘how to get there’ section below.

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    What does the monument represent?

    Sverd i Fjell represents a famous battle in the Viking Age called the Battle of Hafrsfjord. The battle took place around the year 872. Stavanger is one of the most important Viking locations, only further highlighted by the fact that a famous battle took place here. You can read more about that on my ‘History of Stavanger’ page (click here).

    In this battle, King Harald Fairhair unified Norway under one kingdom. Before this, several petty kings ruled Norway. These chieftains (that went up against Harald) came from Hordaland, Rogaland, Agder and Telemark, all counties in South-Western Norway. Moreover, the chieftains had support from the Danes and the British Isles. After Harald Fairhair’s win, rather than submit and pay tribute to Harald, many nobles left with their kin and possessions. They settled in the Western Isles and the newly discovered Iceland. Here, these settlers took part in shaping the new Iceland.

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    Fun fact:

    The reason Harald Fairhair wished to unify Norway is because he was in love. He wanted to marry Gyda Eiriksdatter, who was a king’s daughter, but she did not accept. Gyda thought he wasn’t powerful enough. However, if he managed to unify Norway, she would marry him. Harald Fairhair agreed and vowed to not cut his hair until he unified Norway. By the end, he was looking very unkept with his long, knotted hair, but he succeeded in unifying Norway and getting the girl. When he finally cut his hair, he looked much cleaner, hence his name.

    This battle is described in the Norse Sagas. The book is the Heimskringla by Snorre Sturlason. You can read a poem about the battle by clicking here.

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    The sculpture

    The sculpture is three swords. Each one is 10m (33ft) tall and planted into the rock of a small hill. The largest sword represents the victorious King Harald Fairhair, while the two smaller swords represent the defeated petty kings. The monument is also to represent peace, since the swords are planted into solid rock and cannot be moved.

    KNM Harald Hårfagre

    Next to the monument, hidden in the trees, is a barracks. This is KNM Harald Hårfagre. It is a basic training establishment for the Royal Norwegian Navy. In Norway military service is compulsory for 12 months, and most are sent to this camp to do their basic training. This is where my husband went!

    Practical Information

    Where is the monument?

    Sverd if Fjell is located 5.3km (3.3 miles) from Stavanger Cathedral. It’s in a suburb, so there are private residences all around.

    Information boards

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    You will find an information board outside the monument outlining the importance of Hafrsfjord and the meaning behind the monument. The information is in Norwegian with an English summary at the bottom.

    How to get here

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    The best way to get there is by car. If you’re renting a car, it’s a 10-15 minute drive from the city centre. There is a carpark with free parking. Just note that in the summer months this monument is very popular with tourists, and there may be many tour buses there.

    If you are doing a tour with a cruise ship or group, and you have a bus, there is a chance they will stop here for photos. The hop on hop off bus does not stop at Sverd i Fjell (which is strange, in my opinion).

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    For example, Viking Cruises has a ‘Panoramic Stavanger’ shore excursion that stops there. Princess Cruises also does a drive through Stavanger and they feature Sverd i fjell.

    It is possible to walk there – it will take a little over an hour – but it’s on main roads and is not a scenic walk at all.

    The next best option is public transport. The best bus option is bus 16 from Byparken (stop: Stavanger hpl. 20) towards Madlasandnes. The ride is 9 mins (14 stops). You get off at Madlaleiren and have to walk 500m (0.3 miles) to get to the monument. The buses are operated by Kolumbus, and you can read info about tickets here (in English).

    Click here for a bus map.

    Important information to note

    There are public restrooms, but they are in the park and not close to the monument. When we visited in September 2020 in the morning (around 8:30am), they were closed.

    In the summer months there are food trucks selling icecream and snacks.

    No souvenir shop.

    The carpark is free, as is visiting the monument.

    All signs point to the monument are in Norwegian. Learn ‘Sverd i Fjell’ – that’s how you’ll find it!

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    You have to walk on rock to get there. It’s uneven and can be slippery in west weather. There is no marked footpath to the monument.

    Final Thoughts

    I enjoyed visiting this monument. While it’s one of those ‘not as big in real life’ monuments, it was fun getting to photograph it. The beach and park area is also beautiful.

    Have you visited Sverd i Fjell? Let me know in the comments!

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Stavanger

    Interesting Facts About Stavanger

    When preparing for my visit to Stavanger, I did a lot of research. I wrote about Stavanger’s history, Gamle Stavanger, made my own walking tour and visited the Oil Museum. Here are all the interesting facts about Stavanger I found along the way.

    Note – more interesting facts can be found in my self-guided walking tour. I have two pages all about life in Stavanger today, with up-to-date statistics.

    ‘The Colour Street’

    Stavanger

    • Stavanger is the fourth-largest city in Norway after Oslo, Bergen and Trondheim
    • The population of Stavanger (in 2020) is 121,610
    • Stavanger has the largest collection of wooden houses in northern Europe with around 8,000 timber buildings in the city.
    • Immigrants make up 11.3% of Stavanger’s population
    Stavanger Cathedral

    Historical Facts

    • There is archaeological evidence that people have lived in the Stavanger area since 3000BC
    • Stavanger was an important place for the Vikings; in 872 the Battle of Hafrsfjord took place. This battle played a role in the unification of Norway. After this battle, King Harald the Fairhair declared that he was the sole ruler of the kingdom of Norway
    • Stavanger is one of Norway’s oldest cities; it was founded in 1125
    • The Stavanger Cathedral is the oldest stone cathedral in Norway – older than Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim!
    • In the 1880s, a woman’s grave from the Viking Age was found in Guselskogen. It is regarded as among the richest women’s graves from the Viking era. Several objects found show Irish heritage (Vikings ruled parts of Ireland). About 40 objects were found, including silver and bronze clasps, silver arm rings, a finger-ring, pearls, knives, cooking equipment and parts of a reliquary. The objects are now part of the Bergen Museum.
    • Christian Bjelland (1858-1927) was the founder of Chr. Bjelland & Co AS, Norway’s largest canned goods producer and amongst the largest in Scandinavia. He became one of the great industrialists of his time in 1908 was made a Knight, 1st Class of the Royal Norwegian Order of St. Olav for his contribution to building the Norwegian canning industry.
    • In 1980, there was a large oil accident. The Alexander L. Kielland semi-submersible drilling rig capsized while working in the Ekofisk oil field, killing 123 people. The rig was owned by the Stavanger Drilling Company of Norway.
    Blue skies in Stavanger

    Geography & Climate

    • Compared to many other places in Norway, Stavanger has a relatively flat landscape; most of the municipality is between 0 and 50 metres above sea level
    • Stavanger’s highest point is the 139-metre (456 ft) tall Jåttånuten
    • Stavanger is influenced heavily by the Gulf Stream, making it much warmer throughout the year. The record high temperature is 34C (93F)
    • Stavanger is a relatively wet city, with 1,180 millimetres (46 in) of rain a year
    Torget, the main square in Stavanger

    Work Life

    • Stavanger has 29% of the county’s industrial employment, mostly thanks to oil
    • Engineering is now the main industry with 59 percent of manufacturing employment. This is mostly related to the offshore petroleum industry, and production of oil platforms alone account for 40 percent.
    • Stavanger is the fourth most important maritime city in Norway when counting number of registered fleets. Oslo, Bergen and Ålesund make up the other three spots.
    • Stavanger is often referred to as Norway’s answer to the French food region of Lyon. The Culinary Institute has provided a very important focus on food in Stavanger. Every year there is the “Happy Food Festival” in Stavanger. By 2020, Stavanger intends to be the region most Norwegians associate with food products and culinary experiences.
    • Tourism is on the rise in Stavanger. Cruise ships are becoming more common, and Stavanger is one of Europe’s fasted growing ports of call for cruise ships north of the Mediterranean.
    • The University of Stavanger is the fifth university established in Norway. It has 9,000 students
    • Domestic and military installations are located in Stavanger, including the NATO Joint Warfare Centre
    View from the Oil Museum

    Transport

    • Stavanger Train Station connects the city with Oslo, Drammen, Kristiansand, and Jaeren.
    • The journey to Oslo on train takes around 7 hours
    • Stavanger Airport is 14 minutes from the city centre
    • The airport links Stavanger with Oslo (1.5 million passengers a year) and Bergen (700,000 passengers a year). Other domestic destinations are Trondheim, Vaernes and Kristiansand
    • Stavanger Airport has international flights to Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Aberdeen, London, Paris, Barcelona, Stockholm and Warsaw
    • The FjordLine ferry connects Stavanger with Bergen to the north and Hirtshals in Denmark to the south
    Street art

    Culture

    • Stavanger’s main newspaper is called the Stavanger Aftenblad. It came out with its first issue in 1893
    • Stavanger was named the European Capital of Culture for 2008.
    • Alexander Kielland is from Stavanger. He is considered one of the four great writers of Norway.
    • The most visited museum in the city is the Norwegian Petroleum Museum
    • The oldest museum in the city is the Missjonmusset, established in 1864. It has 5,000 exhibits containing objects of ethnographic and historical interest.
    • South West Film Forum is the organisation for those who work in the film industry. Their goal is to increase the skills of film workers in the region.
    • Local filmmaking in Stavanger gets special grants, aiming to boost the industry
    • One of the first successful Stavanger-made films was Mongoland
    • Another famous film made in Stavanger is Nokas (2010), about the famous NOKAS robbery that took place in Stavanger in 2004
    • The latest Mission Impossible movie was filmed on Pulpit Rock just outside Stavanger
    • The largest football club in Stavanger is Viking FK, one of the most successful clubs in Norwegian history
    • The Stavanger Oilers is the only western team in the top Norwegian ice hockey league
    • Stavanger participates in the annual Nuart Festival. Every September, a team of internationally acclaimed street artists contribute to “one of Europe’s most dynamic and constantly evolving public events.”

    Random Interesting Facts about Stavanger

    • King Oscar sardines originated in Stavanger!

    Do you have any interesting facts about Stavanger?

    Add them in the comments!

  • History, Stavanger

    The History of Stavanger, Simplified

    The History of Stavanger, Simplified

    Stavanger is one of those cities I’ve never really looked into, never mind the history of Stavanger. When my husband asked me to plan my dream Norwegian road-trip, I thought it is worth spending a couple days in Stavanger. I didn’t think the history would tell much of a story…

    Until I read about it.

    The history of Stavanger is fascinating. It was one of the most important bases for the Vikings. It has Norway’s oldest cathedral (take that, Nidaros). Don’t shy away from Stavanger because of its oil wealth. There’s so much going on here.

    Here’s the history of Stavanger summarised, keeping in all the good bits.

    In this article...

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The first peoples

    The first traces of people in Stavanger comes from the islands. It’s believed that people came here from the North Sea or the land area known as Doggerland. Doggerland was located between Denmark and England. It flooded after the last Ice Age, so its peoples looked for new land, and they came to Stavanger.

    During The Bronze Age (1800-500BC), wealthy chieftains emerged in Stavanger. They made trade connections with Europe. This gave them horses and bronze status symbols. They lived in fancy longhouses, and were buried in large burial mounds. Many archaeological finds from this time have been found, the richest ones on the island Austre Amøy (https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Austre_%C3%85m%C3%B8y).

    Jæren, the area south of Stavanger (see the scenic route) is (and has always been) an important place for agriculture. There are traces of 200 farms from the migration period. It’s possible to visit Jernaldergården (https://am.uis.no/jernaldergarden/), a rebuilt migration-period farm.

    A monument for the Battle of Hafrsfjord

    The Viking Age

    Stavanger had Vikings. In fact, Stavanger is one of the most important bases for the Vikings, signalled by the famous Battle of Hafrsfjord in 872. This is the battle that unified Norway as one kingdom under a ruler. The victorious Viking chief Harald Fairhair proclaimed himself King of the Norwegians. The battle, and Stavanger, is mentioned in Harald Fairhair’s Saga Heimskringla (http://heimskringla.no/wiki/Soga_um_Harald_Haarfagre), written by Snorri Sturlason.

    Most importantly, there is evidence in North Jæren suggesting a powerful chieftain lived there around the Viking Age. The area is also likely a starting point for the Viking voyages to the British Isles. Most importantly, more Irish metalwork is found in this area than in any other comparable area in Europe.

    Ullandhaug Iron Age Farm (source: Wikipedia)

    Several finds from the Viking Age were uncovered in Stavanger. Perhaps the most famous is the Gausel Queen’s tomb on Gausel (https://web.archive.org/web/20110724175532/http://www.gausel.no/art_rlb97.htm) The grave is one of Norway’s richest woman graves from the Viking Age, and it contained a number of Irish and domestic elements. The manor house on Gausel was likely a centre of power during the Viking Age, and rich finds from boat graves on the site show that there was military and political power here.

    The objects from this grave are on display in the Bergen Museum.

    Christianity comes to Stavanger

    The first Christian impulses came to Stavanger through trade with Europe and Great Britain during the Viking Age. In the mid-10th century, the traditional Norse burial customs stopped. Around the same time, the priests began their work.

    Large stone crosses have been found throughout Stavanger municipality signalling early Christianity. One of the most known is the memorial cross for Erling Skjalgasson, who controlled the south west coast at the time. He fell in 1028 and the cross was put up soon after. The inscription on the cross shows a priest was responsible and the site may have been used as an early church.

    The founding of Stavanger

    Stavanger is one of Norway’s oldest cities. By the early 12th century, it was growing as an urban centre. The Stavanger bishopric was established in the 1120s, Stavanger was officially founded in connection with the construction of the Stavanger Cathedral.

    Bishop Reinhald, who likely came from Winchester in England, is said to have started the construction of the Stavanger Cathedral. It was finished in 1125, and that’s when Stavanger considers its founding.

    St. Mary’s Church shortly before it was torn down

    The fire of 1272

    A large fire in 1272 destroyed much of the inner urban area and cathedral. St. Mary’s Church was built in Stavanger shortly after this fire in a Gothic style. In 1883, a runestone of quartz was found in the foundation wall of the church. The stone says “Kjetil erected this stone after his wife Jorun Utyrmsdatter” and it is from 1000-1050. The church has since been demolished, but there’s a plaque next to Stavanger Cathedral.(https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mariakirken_i_Stavanger) Furthermore, remains under the cathedral shows that there may have been an earlier building on the site from the 800s or 1000s.

    The Reformation

    At the beginning of the 16th century, Stavanger was still the religious centre for southwestern Norway. The Reformation had serious effects on Stavanger as a whole.

    The Reformation dealt a hard blow to the Church and Stavanger. The cathedral, bishop and canons of the monastery were large landowners at the time. Recession began with the loss of people in rural areas, and as a result the revenues of the cathedral and bishop fell dramatically due to reduced income. The King confiscated the bishop’s and monastery’s estate and property. St. Swithun’s casket (https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Svithuns_skrin) disappeared, likely sent to Copenhagen to be melted down and made into coins.

    17th Century Growth

    Stavanger didn’t see growth until the beginning of the 17th century. There was cultural growth in the city, especially with the Stavanger Renaissance, when famous artists from abroad came to create artworks in the city. Their most famous work was the rich redecorating of the Cathedral.(https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stavangerrenessansen)

    The 17th century fires. Photo: Arne Kvitrud, 2018. (Source)

    Sure, there were outbreaks of the plague in 1618 and 1629, and Stavanger did have many fires in the 17th and 18th centuries, but trade was growing with Europe and Great Britain. When the famous Kielland family moved in, the city saw a new generational change.

    19th century industrialisation

    Gamle Stavanger around 1910. In the background you can see a canning factory (Source)

    A model of Stavanger representing the year 1800. (Source)

    Industry came to Stavanger in the 19th century, and the city found new purpose. The most important industries to emerge was shipping, shipbuilding, and the fish canning industry.

    A huge upswing in the precious herring fishing (what Stavanger had lived on since the 16th century) at the turn of the century led to wealth and prosperity. However, it was the low herring catches in the 1870s and 1880s that made the city realise they had to expand beyond these industries. With that, the canning industry began.

    The canning industry

    The old Stavanger Preserving Co. Building

    Stavanger Preserving, founded in 1873, is Stavanger’s oldest canning factory. The factory didn’t just bring canning to Stavanger, but also let to the growth of other industries such as packaging factories, printing houses, box factories and so on.

    Chr. Bjelland & Co AS is the largest and most famous canning factory. Founded by Christian Bjelland (1858-1927), the company initially focused on fresh fish products but from 1889 onwards started processing anchovies in a tin can. In 1893, the company picked up the production of sardines packed with a hermetic seal. (https://www.kingoscar.no/om-oss/historien-om-king-oscar/)

    The company is famous for its creative packaging, often depicting Norwegian heroes such as Fridtjof Nansen. You probably recognise the Kong Oscar brand (still in shops today), for which Christian Bjelland received royal permission to use the image of Oscar II of Sweden. (https://www.norwegianamerican.com/food/king-of-the-sea/)

    The customs house (Source)

    Early 20th Century

    At the turn of the century, Stavanger’s industry was mainly related to fisheries and shipping. Canning was still the main industry; Stavanger earned the nickname “Norway’s canned capital”.

    The interwar depression hit the city hard. The population, which in 1815 reached 2500, increased to 23,500 in 1875. In 1890, the population was only 24,400. By 1920, the population had reached 50,400. (https://snl.no/Stavanger_-_historie)

    Skagen in 1910 (Source)

    World War II

    In the early morning of the 9th of April 1940 Germany invaded Norway. Stavanger had been one of the first targets for the Germans; the day before they had anchored a freighter close to the city despite Norwegian protest. On the 9th, explosions and bomb blasts on Sola Airport and news bulletins on the radio announced the attack on Norway.

    German soldier in Stavanger 1941 (Source)

    German soldiers in Stavanger on Skagen (Source)

    The bombardment on Sola Airport lasted an hour before 52 transport aircraft from Hamburg arrived. In a parachute assault, the transport planes dropped yellow containers containing weapons and equipment and then between ten and twelve paratroopers from each plane. This is the second-ever wartime parachute assault.

    The Norwegians surrendered and 200 to 300 transport aircraft arrived during the day. At 12:30pm, the first German troops advanced on Stavanger without resistance and took over the most important buildings in the city. By the evening, several hundred soldiers and large quantities of material were now at Sola Airport.

    During the war, the Germans had placed high priority on having a good railway linking the airbase at Sola with the rest of the country. The Southern Railway opened in 1944, three years later than planned.

    When the war ended in 1945, there were 15,000 German soldiers in Rogaland County. Before repatriation, the Germans were required to clean up after five years of occupation. 180 German minefields lay along the coast with a total of 480,000 mines. The German Wehmacht were required to clear them. 62 Germans died and 94 were injured during the mine clearance. Mines from this period continue to be uncovered.

    Immediate post-war years

    Little changed for the business community in Stavanger immediately following the war. The canning industry disappeared in the 1960s; during the First World War there had been 54 canning companies with 8000 employees and accounted for 70% of the country’s canned exports.

    Shipping and shipbuilding made up the bulk of industry during the 1950s and 1960s, and were very useful in the brand-new industry that was about to emerge.

    Discovery of oil

    You can’t talk about Stavanger without mentioning the oil industry. After the discovery of oil in the North Sea, Stavanger became the hub for the Norwegian oil sector in the North Sea. A period of hectic growth followed. More than just the general oil industry, consulting companies, local engineering, catering came to Stavanger, as well as growth in the public and private sector.

    Stavanger Today

    The Norwegian Petroleum Museum opened in 1999, and tourism has been growing in importance ever since. Stavanger is becoming a major Norwegian cruise port.

    The University of Stavanger opened in 2005.

    As of 2019/2020 the Ryfast tunnel opened; it is the world’s longest underwater tunnel.

    History of Stavanger

    I hope you enjoyed this overview of the history of Stavanger!

    You can read a more in-depth version of this history, plus walk through Stavanger yourself, with my self-guided walking tour.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Stavanger, Walking Guides

    A Walk Through Gamle Stavanger

    Emma

    Gamle (Old) Stavanger is probably the most known part of Stavanger. It is certainly one of the most visited tourist attractions in the city, and rightly so. Gamle Stavanger is a preserved district of around 155 wooden houses from the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s incredibly charming, scenic, picturesque, and Norwegian.

    I’ve written a walking guide to Stavanger, where I provide a detailed overview of where to walk in Gamle Stavanger. If you are interested in that, click here.

    This article is more of a general guide to Gamle Stavanger. The goal here is to show you what the area is all about and why it’s such a great place to visit.

    Before we start, I should say there is very little information on each individual house and street. There are (very expensive) books on Gamle Stavanger in Norwegian, but as of writing there’s very little in English. I also find it interesting that this is referred to as ‘Old Stavanger’, when the town centre (see the self-guided walk) is much older.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Gamle Stavanger

    View over Gamle Stavanger in the early 20th century (Source)

    It’s not sure how old Gamle Stavanger is. Some houses have been here since the 1700s, but the area was mostly open pastures. Before 1820, there was one row of warehouses along the bay and a few scattered properties on the slope above it.

    As a result of rich herring fishing, shipping, and shipbuilding, there was a huge population growth between 1815-1880. The area where Gamle Stavanger is became the city’s first housing development. The first houses built here were tiny; during an economic boom in the 1860s and 1870s, many were demolished to make way for larger houses. Some original houses remain, but many only exist as parts of a newer construction.

    Source (Click Here)

    After World War II, there was interest in demolishing houses to build apartments. In 1951, Einar Heden (1916-2001) took the initiative to preserve the dilapidated Gamle Stavanger.  On 11 November 1957, the Gamle Stavanger Foundation was founded. Heden became the association’s first chairman. Over the next few years, more began to care about Gamle Stavanger. In 1965 the Council voted unanimously to preserve Gamle Stavanger and 79 buildings. 10 years later, the area was expanded to 154 houses – the current regulation.

    Source (Click Here)

    Today, it is recognised that the existence of Gamle Stavanger is thanks to Heden. Before his conservation work, Gamle Stavanger was one of the least desirable areas. It consisted of rundown wooden buildings owned by the lowest classes. Today Gamle Stavanger is one of the wealthiest areas to live.

    The Canning Industry

    The canning industry is important to Stavanger, and there is a Canning Museum located here. Note that the museum is closed for an extensive renovation and will be closed until spring 2021.

    While most of the factories have been torn down, some still exist. For example, close to the tourist information centre is this grand red building. This is where the Stavanger Preserving Co. was located.

    This is the first cannery to be built in Stavanger, established in 1873.

    The building is no longer used as a cannery; in the 1980s, the company merged with Norway Foods and moved headquarters. Today this building is a bank.

    The Oldest House in Stavanger

    Villa Blidensol is Stavanger’s oldest house, after the Cathedral and the Bishop’s Chapel.

    Blidensol is first mentioned on a map in 1726. It is next mentioned in a written source in 1737. The building itself is thought to be from 1777, though some believe it is older – it’s hard to know what’s original, what was moved here, etc. The villa is built in an Empire style that was probably added in the period 1805-1820. Much of the interior is unchanged.

    The first known owner is Laurits Andersen Smith (1680-1758). He bought several smaller plots and merged them into a large estate. The name isn’t very Norwegian; that is because he came from Scotland. Laurits is the son of Andrew Smith, who did the wood carvings inside Stavanger Cathedral. They owned the home until 1825. From then on, the large estate was continuously subdivided into smaller plots.

    When lawyer Christen Iben Minos bought the house in the mid-1980s, it was quite decayed. He and his wife extensively restored and modernised the house, though keeping it in an old style. Today the villa is privately owned and it’s a little tricky to see.

    The White Houses

    A true highlight of Gamle Stavanger is the white houses. These houses are very characteristically Norwegian, with their weatherboard and ceramic tile roof.

    For me it was a photographers dream, especially with the sun shining. Here are some photos of the houses.

    Characteristic ceramic tile roof. Ceramic is local to Stavanger

    Gamle Stavanger consists of around 173 buildings, though this has risen to 250.

    Why are the houses wooden?

    Wood has historically been the cheapest source of material and more easy to obtain than stone. Stone, on the other hand, is for important buildings like the Stavanger Cathedral. In history, white was the most expensive coat of paint as it showed wealth. The reason these houses are white is not because of this, but because in the 19th century neoclassical was the style, and neoclassical meant white houses.

    On some of the houses, you’ll see mirrors sticking out the side. This is very typical of houses close by the sea. In the old times, if you’re sitting inside and hear someone coming your way, you can use this two-way mirror to check who it is. If it’s someone you like, you can welcome them inside. If it’s someone you don’t like, pretend to not be home! The wives would use these mirrors when gossiping with friends; their husbands were often away at sea.

    In the background you can see the city centre.

    Who owns the houses?

    The houses are privately owned. Originally these were the poorest homes in the city, but now they have become some of the most desired homes. The price tag reflects this.

    Here are two examples of places for sale at the moment. The one at the top is a house with two bedrooms (soverom) on sale for 3.1 million NOK. The second one is an apartment with one bedroom on sale for 3.6 million NOK.

    Issues with Tourists

    In recent years Gamle Stavanger has become a popular destination with tourists. That’s (of course) fine, but in the last couple years there have been issues with tourists. Mostly the issue is that some tourists have been looking through mailboxes, peeking through windows, and even walking into people’s private gardens! Some believe that, because it’s a collection of old buildings, it must be an open air museum. Locals own these homes. You cannot start violating their privacy. I know my readers won’t do it, but keep in mind people do it.

    Part of the problem is the growing number of cruise ships, which dock right outside Gamle Stavanger. The pollution and overcrowding is becoming a problem for residents. Just look at these photos:

    You can see Gamle Stavanger to the left. Source

    Just Google ‘Gamle Stavanger cruise ship’ for many photos like this (or click here).

    In 2019, 234 cruise ships called at Stavanger bringing 496,000 passengers. The vast majority of these come between the tourist season – May to September. Some cruise ships carry up to 5,000 passengers. (Source)

    Don’t get me wrong; I don’t mind cruise ships. After all, I’m a local guide and rely on that income. Cruise ships can do a lot of good. If you’re coming to Stavanger on a cruise ship, be sure to be extra nice to the locals. If you’re going to be in Stavanger when there’s a cruise ship in, perhaps reconsider when you want to leave the hotel room!

    Einar Heden's Plass

    This is a small square where you can sit and reflect. The name is from the man who saved Gamle Stavanger – city architect Einar Heden.

    You’ll see an old power post in the backyard of one of the houses. The square also offers lovely views of Stavanger town.

    Visiting Gamle Stavanger

    Gamle Stavanger is a free, public area in Stavanger city centre. There are plenty of shops, cafes and some museums. It’s perfect for an afternoon visit.

    Gamle Stavanger is located about a five minute walk from the city centre (see circled area above).

    Have you been to Gamle Stavanger? Share your experience in the comments.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Museums, Stavanger

    All You Need to Know about the Oil Museum in Stavanger

    All You Need to Know about the Oil Museum in Stavanger

    On my visit to Stavanger in September 2020, we were stuck looking for places to visit. I am a huge Norwegian history geek, so I was hoping to see the Canning Museum and the Archaeological Museum, but both were closed due to the corona virus. To top things off, we were in Stavanger on my 30th birthday. In a bid to find something to do (and get relief from the cold weather), we went to the oil museum in Stavanger. I never thought I’d turn 30 in an oil museum, but here we are!

    Honestly, the oil museum in Stavanger is a fascinating look into Norway’s petroleum industry. My husband went on about how he felt like he was back in high school (they were taught a lot about the oil industry in Norwegian schools). I learned some things I never new about oil, so it felt worth it.

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    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The oil industry

    While the museum has a ton of information about the oil industry, I think it’s worth going in with a general understanding about Norway’s oil industry.

    The oil industry is a big topic and hard to condense. When I’m doing tours around Norway, I give a topic about the good, bad and ugly of the oil industry. I’m working on adjusting that into a blog post.

    In the meantime, you can read about the oil industry on the Norwegian government website (it’s in English). Click here.

    The oil museum in Stavanger

    The Oil Museum (Oljemuseet) shows how oil, particularly offshore operations, is Norway’s most important industry. The exhibitions present historical developments in the oil industry. It starts with the exploration in the North Sea and the construction of steel and concrete platforms. It goes right up to modern production ships and subsea systems. Then, the exhibitions look to the future of the oil industry.

    Moreover, the museum is stunning to look at. It’s probably unsurprising that it is designed by an architectural firm, and part of the museum looks like an oil platform when viewed from the outside. The building is a landmark in the Port of Stavanger.

    The Oil Museum opened on the 20th of May 1999 by King Harald V. Currently, it is the most visited museum in Stavanger.

    The museum is a stop on my self-guided walking tour of Stavanger:

    Exhibitions

    The exhibitions include technological advances and how oil revenue has affected Norwegian society. Climate change is a focal point, especially issues with greenhouse gas emissions and global warming. Original objects, models, films, and interactive exhibits convey the history of oil operations on the Norwegian continental shelf. Information boards explain what it’s like to work offshore and underwater.

    For kids, they can slide down a real rescue chute and play on a miniature oil platform. There are tons of interactive exhibits for them to try.

    The museum is spread out over two floors. You enter on the lower floor.

    Lower floor exhibitions

    When you first enter the museum, there’s an extensive timeline. It outlines the development of the oil industry in Norway, from the first exploration to the present day. Since we are in Stavanger, there’s a focus on how the town changed with the discovery of oil. It’s a fascinating timeline with plenty of documents, images and text. You could spend 20 minutes or one hour reading the timeline.

    Short film

    The staff will likely recommend that you watch the short film first. It’s a fictional film and not a documentary, so it’s going to be quite different from the types of museum films you expect. Starring famous Norwegian actor Kristoffer Joner, the film explores a man reflecting on his childhood in Stavanger during the oil boom. His father worked on the rigs, and Joner’s character is bitter towards the oil industry. After all, it took away time with his father. The story is a little out there, but the footage of Stavanger in the 1970s is very interesting. I especially liked how it showed the American influence on Stavanger, with all the bars and cars. 

    Future of the oil industry

    Lastly, on the lower floor, there’s an exhibition about the future of the Norwegian oil industry. Before you go into the exhibit, you’ll see a row of various drilling bits. They kind of remind me of the creatures from horror and sci fi movies!

    The exhibition explains how the oil is state-owned, with the profits being invested abroad. There’s a counter with the current value of the Norwegian oil fund and the current price of oil:

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    What’s great about this exhibition is that it has a balanced opinion. The exhibition shows the protests and newspaper articles in Norway that has had a negative opinion about the oil industry. At the same time, the exhibition shows where they plan to drill for oil in the future, namely in the Arctic. This is a very heated debate at the moment in Norway.

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Moreover, the exhibition also explains what exactly the oil and gas is used for. Norwegian gas supplies 25% of gas to Europe and the UK. Also, Norway doesn’t use its own oil! A downstairs exhibit explains how the steel pipelines are placed on the seabed, linking the Norwegian continental shelf to Norway, Germany, France, Belgium and the UK.

    The upper floor

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    You enter the oil platform recreation once upstairs. It’s a really cool place to walk around, and we had fun messing about in the control room section. All the equipment is authentic and interesting to look at. However, I know so little about the oil platforms that it all looked so foreign. The upstairs exhibitions explain how they search for oil and how the drills work in the ground. From the upstairs platform, you can go outside and slide down a net. We did not as the net looked like it may break one of our bones. There’s also lovely views of Stavanger from the outside!

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    An upstairs exhibition focuses on the impact of climate change around the world. It focuses on Norway’s role in combating climate change. Displays explain protests in Norway against oil, overpopulation, and the government’s decisions. It’s a mixed view, though it may lean towards painting Norway in a positive light. Other topics are changes in the free marked, international collaboration, and technological changes. You can read about the exhibition on their website.

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    The last upstairs exhibition is about the North Sea, focusing on how they work out there. There’s a film showing a British man connecting pipes underwater that is interesting to watch. I was fascinated by the fact they have to spend a good portion isolated as they readjust to the pressure above the sea. You can try on the helmets they wear underwater too.

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Practical Information

    Languages

    The signboards are in English and Norwegian. They have brochures available in more languages like German, Russian and French.

    Restaurant

    Attached to the museum is the Bølgen and Moi Restaurant with lunch and dinner. It has a small but excellent menu plus an extensive drinks range. We had a burger split between the two of us (they even cut the burger in half!) and a local apple juice plus a coffee. It was really good and just what we needed.

    Read about the restaurant

    Visit their website

    Souvenir Shop

    The souvenir shop has a lot of science toys, including experiment kits, slinkies, goo, and so on. If you’ve been to a science museum and seen the kids’ section of the souvenir shop, it’s very similar. There are some t-shirts and caps with the museum logo, and a small collection of books (most are in Norwegian. There’s also some jewellery, if that’s your thing. We bought a magnet from the museum, as we do everywhere.

    Read about the shop.

    Guided Tours

    The museum does offer guided tours in Norwegian, English and German. However, these are not regularly scheduled and most be booked in advanced. They are generally for large tour groups and not couples or individual travellers. That’s a shame because they offer oil tasting at the restaurant, which would be cool to experience.

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    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide