Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Jæren, Southern Norway

    Tracing the Vikings at the Sola Ruin Church

    Tracing the Vikings at the Sola Ruin Church

    Back in September 2020, the husband and I did a 10-day roadtrip around Norway. After leaving Stavanger, we drove south along the Jæren Scenic Road. While finding our way to the start of the road, we came across signs leading to this church. I hadn’t read up on it beforehand, but I never say no to a historic site photo-stop. And I’m so glad we decided to stop at the Sola Ruin Church (Sola Ruinkyrkje).

    This historic church is located in Sola Municipality just outside Stavanger. The church was active from 1150 – 1842 before being converted into a private residence. During the war, the Germans destroyed it. The church has since been restored, and now its history is being uncovered. Interestingly, the history is very closely linked with the Viking Age.

    In this article, I’ll go over the area and the history of the church, plus the Vikings it has been linked with. 

    In this article...

    The Fv44 Highway

    Sola Ruin Church is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Sola Municipality

    The area around Sola is rich in historic sites. Above all, Rich grave finds, ancient monuments and traces of large farms are from the Stone Age, Bronze Age and Viking Age. Moreover, all the finds show that Sola was a rich and important place. Sola was home to many powerful men during the Viking Age. It’s also believed that the unification of Norway took place on an island in Sola.

    Today Sola is known for Stavanger Airport, which occupies a very large area of Sola. Norwegian Air has its technical base in Sola. Sola also has a large container port at Risavika. Several oil companies have their Norwegian head office in Sola. Above all, Sola is an important agricultural municipality. There is the production of dairy products, meat, vegetables, strawberries and cucumbers.

    Erling Skjalgsson

    Erling pictured at his death

    It’s good to know a little about Erling Skjalgsson, especially since he’ll be mentioned quite a bit. Erling Skjalgsson (960-975 to 1027-1028) was a ruler of southern Norway. He is also the brother in law of Olav Tryggvason, who founded Trondheim. Historians aren’t 100% sure about where he lived, but most believe it was on Sola on a farm near the church. Others think he lived in Stavanger.

    Moreover, Erling aligned himself with Olav Tryggvason and received a large chunk of southern Norway to rule. After Olav was killed in battle, the leaders split Norway into three, which served Erling well. However, when Olav Haraldsson arrived in 1015, he had plans to rule the entire country.

    Erling continued to enforce his power on southwest Norway. King Olav tried to split his powers by introducing new men to control the area. However, they were quickly pushed out by Erlings men. In 1027, Erling went to England to get the support of Canute the Great. Erling returned in 1028 and rallied an army with the intent of fighting Olav. However, Erling was trapped on a ship by King Olav’s fleet in the Battle of Boknafjorden near Bokn in Rogaland. The ship overturned and the men captured Erling. As Olav was about to pardon Erling, one of Olav’s men cut off Erling’s head with an axe.

    According to the sagas, King Olav said to the killer “you feel! Now you hewed Norway off my hands!” the kings prediction came true. Backed by Canute the Great, Erling’s allies went on to drive Olav out of the country. They killed him at the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030.

    Sola Ruin Church & Christianity in Sola

    Christianity in Sola

    Comparatively, christianity came to Sola early. There are few pagan mounds from the 10th century here, especially when compared to other parts of Norway. This indicates that ancient customs had already given way to Christianity.

    Several large stone crosses from this period still stand – there are two on Tjora (the largest is 2.2m high). I’m so sad I didn’t know about these before renting a car and driving through Norway. It’s on the ‘next time’ list for sure. Anyway, the crosses are from the 10th century. There used to be three stone crosses; one is now in a museum in Bergen.

    Moreover, Erling Skjalgsson converted to Christianity to marry Astrid Tryggvesdatter, sister of Olav Tryggvason. According to the saga, Olav wanted a council (ting) set up as soon as he came to Sola to christianise the area. They picked out the three most eloquent peasants to speak out against Olav christianising them. When Olav showed up, they confronted him. The first did not say a word. The other suddenly became dumb, and the third was so hoarse that no one heard him. Therefore, there was no resistance to Olav and everyone in the council was baptised before Olav left.

    Monument to Erling Skjalgsson and Astrid Tryggvesdatter

    History of the Church

    It’s possible that the predecessor to this church was a stave church. Some historians believe Erling Skjalgsson built the church in connection with his farm. The location of the church has a view towards Sola Beach, the sea, and Hafrsfjord. Erling died in 1028. After Erling died, his relatives are documented with building stone churches in the area. However, Sola Ruin Church is been dated to between 1120 and 1130. Above all, this is around the same time other stone churches in southern Norway were built. Since Erling was killed 100 years before that, Sola ruin Church is not his church. Still, it’s possible that the predecessor was his church. Sadly, the ground where the ruins would’ve been was destroyed by the artist when he moved in (more on that soon). The artist also removed the tombs in the nave.

    The stone crosses, churches and cemeteries in Sola testify not only to a dense settlement during the Viking Age but also great people coming here. Additionally, there was great wealth in the area. The land in Jaeren and Sola is among the best agricultural land in Norway. Additionally, the area is close to the North Sea and trade routes, making it great for Viking expeditions.

    Most importantly, Sola Church was in use until 1842.

    You can see an image of the church in ruins in the 19th century here: https://digitaltmuseum.no/021018297305/postkort-med-motiv-av-sola-ruinkirke

    “Naval Battle of Madagascar”

    Private ownership

    In 1871, painter Johan Bennetter bought the church ruin. He converted it into a provide home with a studio. In 1907, the Bennetter family moved into a new house built into the garden south of the church. The house is no longer standing.

    Johan Bennetter (1822-1904) is a Norwegian naval painter in the Hague and Paris. He returned to Norway in 1880 to decorate his home and studio in Sola’s old church. His most famous work is ‘Naval Battle of Madagascar’, owned by the National Gallery. Above all, as a naval painter, he is recognised for his lifelike waves.

    You can see what the church looked like as a house here: https://www.solahistorielag.no/events/bennetter-og-hellandfamilienes-dype-spor-pa-sola-innen-kunst-kultur-og-arkitektur-ved-arvid-baerheim/

    World War II

    On the day of occupation, 9 April 1940, the Germans took control of Sola Airport. It was as one of the most important bases in Norway. The Germans believed that the church could be used by the Allies as an approach target. Because of this, they demolished the church. Moreover, they left the remains on the site as a large stone mound. Fortunately, the Germans marked each stone and where it had stood in the church.

    Sola Ruin Church
    Sola Ruin Church from the front – me in reflection for scale 😉

    Restoring the Church

    In 1982, the Sola Municipality and the National Heritage Board began the restoration. It started with an archaeological excavation of the church ruin in 1986. Above all, the excavation found 31 graves, some inside the church and others outside. The tower was not touched by Benneter, and graves lay in the tower. The most important was one of a 60 year old woman who was in a spacious, iron-clad pine coffin. She was wrapped in textiles and leather.

    Moreover, two post-holes were found that date back to 595AD – 670AD and the other from 650-760AD. Both came long before the Viking Age. Moreover, Archaeologists also looked into the carpark area and found two fireplaces that date back to 660-1020 AD. One of them fits in with the Viking times. It indicates that there were buildings here in the Viking age. This is possibly where Erling Skjalgsson lived.

    In 1992, the church was restored after an architectural competition to its present form. They have put glass on the missing sections, creating a unique appearance.

    Not much from the church is preserved. There is a soapstone coffin from the Middle Ages. It is part of the collection of the Bergen Museum.

    Sola Ruin Church
    Sola Ruin Church

    The church today

    The church is used every year when the mayor of Sola municipality awards the Human Rights Prize for the Nordjæren region in the church. This usually takes place on UN day on 24 October. The prize consists of a sculpture of the Erling Skjalgsson monument, a diploma, and 25,000 NOK. It is distributed to an institution, organisation or individual in the region who has made an effort to promote work on the knowledge of human rights.

    The church is very popular for weddings and concerts. It has a capacity of 68 people. Moreover, when it’s not rented out, it’s possible to book a guided tour of the church.

    A monument to Erling Skjalgsson stands outside the church.

    Practical Information

    Address & Getting There

    Bautavegen 10, 4050 Sola

    Signs? Yes – they say ‘Sola Ruinkyrkje’

    Note – the church is located on a sleepy residential street. Please be respectful of the neighbours! The roads are narrow. Moreover, it’s important to note that “Sola Ruin Church” is not the same as the nearby “Sola Church”.

    Parking

    Free parking. The carpark is located a short walk from the church.

    Restrooms

    No restrooms.

    Walks

    If you’ve got some time to spare, there’s a walking route around Sola. It will take you past some of the historic monuments mentioned above. What’s great about Sola is that it has a flat landscape, making the walk very pleasant.

    You can read about the walk here: https://ut.no/turforslag/1112746/solaturen (it’s in Norwegian but translates easily)

    Information Sign

    Information sign

    There is an information board in Norwegian with a summary in English. It also has images of the church throughout history.

    Final Thoughts

    The church is a real delight, especially when kickstarting a drive through southern Norway. However, I’m a little sad to see just how much the church has been affected by history. Very little of the historic Viking church remains, so it serves as a gentle reminder that history is worth preserving.

    If you’re in the area, it’s well worth stopping by. The visit will be quick but you’ll get some lovely photos.

    The Fv44 Highway

    Sola Ruin Church is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Stavanger

    Visiting Sverd i Fjell (Swords in Rock) in Stavanger

    Visiting Sverd i Fjell (Swords in Rock) in Stavanger

    One of the most popular images of Stavanger is this iconic three Vikings swords in a rock by a fjord. You’ll see it everywhere; postcards, magnets, brochures, and so on. It’s called Sverd i fjell in Norwegian, which translates to ‘Swords in the Rock’ in English. Moreover, the monument commemorates a famous battle that took place in Stavanger. It’s a must see! I got a chance to see sverd i fjell in September 2020. I’ve put together a practical guide for visiting this monument.

    In this article...

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Where is Sverd i Fjell?

    Sverd i fjell is on a bay at the end of the Hafrsfjord. The Hafrsfjord is 9km (5.6 miles) long and separates the Stavanger and Sola municipalities. The name comes from an old Norse word, with ‘hafr’ meaning ‘male goat’ and ‘fjord’ meaning, well, fjord. It’s thought that ‘harf’ is the name of a skerry at the entrance to the fjord.

    Moreover, it’s believed that people have lived along this fjord for thousands of years. One of the discoveries in the area is a petroglyph dating to the Bronze Age. Most importantly, the whole area is rich in ancient monuments.

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    The bay area is Møllebukta. The name refers to a mill (mølle) as this area is historically where a corn mill was located. Moreover, the park is from the 18th century, and the 100m (330ft) beach is a popular swimming spot in the summer months.

    The position and distance from Stavanger is outlined in the ‘how to get there’ section below.

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    What does the monument represent?

    Sverd i Fjell represents a famous battle in the Viking Age called the Battle of Hafrsfjord. The battle took place around the year 872. Stavanger is one of the most important Viking locations, only further highlighted by the fact that a famous battle took place here. You can read more about that on my ‘History of Stavanger’ page (click here).

    In this battle, King Harald Fairhair unified Norway under one kingdom. Before this, several petty kings ruled Norway. These chieftains (that went up against Harald) came from Hordaland, Rogaland, Agder and Telemark, all counties in South-Western Norway. Moreover, the chieftains had support from the Danes and the British Isles. After Harald Fairhair’s win, rather than submit and pay tribute to Harald, many nobles left with their kin and possessions. They settled in the Western Isles and the newly discovered Iceland. Here, these settlers took part in shaping the new Iceland.

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    Fun fact:

    The reason Harald Fairhair wished to unify Norway is because he was in love. He wanted to marry Gyda Eiriksdatter, who was a king’s daughter, but she did not accept. Gyda thought he wasn’t powerful enough. However, if he managed to unify Norway, she would marry him. Harald Fairhair agreed and vowed to not cut his hair until he unified Norway. By the end, he was looking very unkept with his long, knotted hair, but he succeeded in unifying Norway and getting the girl. When he finally cut his hair, he looked much cleaner, hence his name.

    This battle is described in the Norse Sagas. The book is the Heimskringla by Snorre Sturlason. You can read a poem about the battle by clicking here.

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    The sculpture

    The sculpture is three swords. Each one is 10m (33ft) tall and planted into the rock of a small hill. The largest sword represents the victorious King Harald Fairhair, while the two smaller swords represent the defeated petty kings. The monument is also to represent peace, since the swords are planted into solid rock and cannot be moved.

    KNM Harald Hårfagre

    Next to the monument, hidden in the trees, is a barracks. This is KNM Harald Hårfagre. It is a basic training establishment for the Royal Norwegian Navy. In Norway military service is compulsory for 12 months, and most are sent to this camp to do their basic training. This is where my husband went!

    Practical Information

    Where is the monument?

    Sverd if Fjell is located 5.3km (3.3 miles) from Stavanger Cathedral. It’s in a suburb, so there are private residences all around.

    Information boards

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    You will find an information board outside the monument outlining the importance of Hafrsfjord and the meaning behind the monument. The information is in Norwegian with an English summary at the bottom.

    How to get here

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    The best way to get there is by car. If you’re renting a car, it’s a 10-15 minute drive from the city centre. There is a carpark with free parking. Just note that in the summer months this monument is very popular with tourists, and there may be many tour buses there.

    If you are doing a tour with a cruise ship or group, and you have a bus, there is a chance they will stop here for photos. The hop on hop off bus does not stop at Sverd i Fjell (which is strange, in my opinion).

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    For example, Viking Cruises has a ‘Panoramic Stavanger’ shore excursion that stops there. Princess Cruises also does a drive through Stavanger and they feature Sverd i fjell.

    It is possible to walk there – it will take a little over an hour – but it’s on main roads and is not a scenic walk at all.

    The next best option is public transport. The best bus option is bus 16 from Byparken (stop: Stavanger hpl. 20) towards Madlasandnes. The ride is 9 mins (14 stops). You get off at Madlaleiren and have to walk 500m (0.3 miles) to get to the monument. The buses are operated by Kolumbus, and you can read info about tickets here (in English).

    Click here for a bus map.

    Important information to note

    There are public restrooms, but they are in the park and not close to the monument. When we visited in September 2020 in the morning (around 8:30am), they were closed.

    In the summer months there are food trucks selling icecream and snacks.

    No souvenir shop.

    The carpark is free, as is visiting the monument.

    All signs point to the monument are in Norwegian. Learn ‘Sverd i Fjell’ – that’s how you’ll find it!

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    You have to walk on rock to get there. It’s uneven and can be slippery in west weather. There is no marked footpath to the monument.

    Final Thoughts

    I enjoyed visiting this monument. While it’s one of those ‘not as big in real life’ monuments, it was fun getting to photograph it. The beach and park area is also beautiful.

    Have you visited Sverd i Fjell? Let me know in the comments!

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Stavanger

    Interesting Facts About Stavanger

    When preparing for my visit to Stavanger, I did a lot of research. I wrote about Stavanger’s history, Gamle Stavanger, made my own walking tour and visited the Oil Museum. Here are all the interesting facts about Stavanger I found along the way.

    Note – more interesting facts can be found in my self-guided walking tour. I have two pages all about life in Stavanger today, with up-to-date statistics.

    ‘The Colour Street’

    Stavanger

    • Stavanger is the fourth-largest city in Norway after Oslo, Bergen and Trondheim
    • The population of Stavanger (in 2020) is 121,610
    • Stavanger has the largest collection of wooden houses in northern Europe with around 8,000 timber buildings in the city.
    • Immigrants make up 11.3% of Stavanger’s population
    Stavanger Cathedral

    Historical Facts

    • There is archaeological evidence that people have lived in the Stavanger area since 3000BC
    • Stavanger was an important place for the Vikings; in 872 the Battle of Hafrsfjord took place. This battle played a role in the unification of Norway. After this battle, King Harald the Fairhair declared that he was the sole ruler of the kingdom of Norway
    • Stavanger is one of Norway’s oldest cities; it was founded in 1125
    • The Stavanger Cathedral is the oldest stone cathedral in Norway – older than Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim!
    • In the 1880s, a woman’s grave from the Viking Age was found in Guselskogen. It is regarded as among the richest women’s graves from the Viking era. Several objects found show Irish heritage (Vikings ruled parts of Ireland). About 40 objects were found, including silver and bronze clasps, silver arm rings, a finger-ring, pearls, knives, cooking equipment and parts of a reliquary. The objects are now part of the Bergen Museum.
    • Christian Bjelland (1858-1927) was the founder of Chr. Bjelland & Co AS, Norway’s largest canned goods producer and amongst the largest in Scandinavia. He became one of the great industrialists of his time in 1908 was made a Knight, 1st Class of the Royal Norwegian Order of St. Olav for his contribution to building the Norwegian canning industry.
    • In 1980, there was a large oil accident. The Alexander L. Kielland semi-submersible drilling rig capsized while working in the Ekofisk oil field, killing 123 people. The rig was owned by the Stavanger Drilling Company of Norway.
    Blue skies in Stavanger

    Geography & Climate

    • Compared to many other places in Norway, Stavanger has a relatively flat landscape; most of the municipality is between 0 and 50 metres above sea level
    • Stavanger’s highest point is the 139-metre (456 ft) tall Jåttånuten
    • Stavanger is influenced heavily by the Gulf Stream, making it much warmer throughout the year. The record high temperature is 34C (93F)
    • Stavanger is a relatively wet city, with 1,180 millimetres (46 in) of rain a year
    Torget, the main square in Stavanger

    Work Life

    • Stavanger has 29% of the county’s industrial employment, mostly thanks to oil
    • Engineering is now the main industry with 59 percent of manufacturing employment. This is mostly related to the offshore petroleum industry, and production of oil platforms alone account for 40 percent.
    • Stavanger is the fourth most important maritime city in Norway when counting number of registered fleets. Oslo, Bergen and Ålesund make up the other three spots.
    • Stavanger is often referred to as Norway’s answer to the French food region of Lyon. The Culinary Institute has provided a very important focus on food in Stavanger. Every year there is the “Happy Food Festival” in Stavanger. By 2020, Stavanger intends to be the region most Norwegians associate with food products and culinary experiences.
    • Tourism is on the rise in Stavanger. Cruise ships are becoming more common, and Stavanger is one of Europe’s fasted growing ports of call for cruise ships north of the Mediterranean.
    • The University of Stavanger is the fifth university established in Norway. It has 9,000 students
    • Domestic and military installations are located in Stavanger, including the NATO Joint Warfare Centre
    View from the Oil Museum

    Transport

    • Stavanger Train Station connects the city with Oslo, Drammen, Kristiansand, and Jaeren.
    • The journey to Oslo on train takes around 7 hours
    • Stavanger Airport is 14 minutes from the city centre
    • The airport links Stavanger with Oslo (1.5 million passengers a year) and Bergen (700,000 passengers a year). Other domestic destinations are Trondheim, Vaernes and Kristiansand
    • Stavanger Airport has international flights to Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Aberdeen, London, Paris, Barcelona, Stockholm and Warsaw
    • The FjordLine ferry connects Stavanger with Bergen to the north and Hirtshals in Denmark to the south
    Street art

    Culture

    • Stavanger’s main newspaper is called the Stavanger Aftenblad. It came out with its first issue in 1893
    • Stavanger was named the European Capital of Culture for 2008.
    • Alexander Kielland is from Stavanger. He is considered one of the four great writers of Norway.
    • The most visited museum in the city is the Norwegian Petroleum Museum
    • The oldest museum in the city is the Missjonmusset, established in 1864. It has 5,000 exhibits containing objects of ethnographic and historical interest.
    • South West Film Forum is the organisation for those who work in the film industry. Their goal is to increase the skills of film workers in the region.
    • Local filmmaking in Stavanger gets special grants, aiming to boost the industry
    • One of the first successful Stavanger-made films was Mongoland
    • Another famous film made in Stavanger is Nokas (2010), about the famous NOKAS robbery that took place in Stavanger in 2004
    • The latest Mission Impossible movie was filmed on Pulpit Rock just outside Stavanger
    • The largest football club in Stavanger is Viking FK, one of the most successful clubs in Norwegian history
    • The Stavanger Oilers is the only western team in the top Norwegian ice hockey league
    • Stavanger participates in the annual Nuart Festival. Every September, a team of internationally acclaimed street artists contribute to “one of Europe’s most dynamic and constantly evolving public events.”

    Random Interesting Facts about Stavanger

    • King Oscar sardines originated in Stavanger!

    Do you have any interesting facts about Stavanger?

    Add them in the comments!

  • History, Stavanger

    The History of Stavanger, Simplified

    The History of Stavanger, Simplified

    Stavanger is one of those cities I’ve never really looked into, never mind the history of Stavanger. When my husband asked me to plan my dream Norwegian road-trip, I thought it is worth spending a couple days in Stavanger. I didn’t think the history would tell much of a story…

    Until I read about it.

    The history of Stavanger is fascinating. It was one of the most important bases for the Vikings. It has Norway’s oldest cathedral (take that, Nidaros). Don’t shy away from Stavanger because of its oil wealth. There’s so much going on here.

    Here’s the history of Stavanger summarised, keeping in all the good bits.

    In this article...

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The first peoples

    The first traces of people in Stavanger comes from the islands. It’s believed that people came here from the North Sea or the land area known as Doggerland. Doggerland was located between Denmark and England. It flooded after the last Ice Age, so its peoples looked for new land, and they came to Stavanger.

    During The Bronze Age (1800-500BC), wealthy chieftains emerged in Stavanger. They made trade connections with Europe. This gave them horses and bronze status symbols. They lived in fancy longhouses, and were buried in large burial mounds. Many archaeological finds from this time have been found, the richest ones on the island Austre Amøy (https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Austre_%C3%85m%C3%B8y).

    Jæren, the area south of Stavanger (see the scenic route) is (and has always been) an important place for agriculture. There are traces of 200 farms from the migration period. It’s possible to visit Jernaldergården (https://am.uis.no/jernaldergarden/), a rebuilt migration-period farm.

    A monument for the Battle of Hafrsfjord

    The Viking Age

    Stavanger had Vikings. In fact, Stavanger is one of the most important bases for the Vikings, signalled by the famous Battle of Hafrsfjord in 872. This is the battle that unified Norway as one kingdom under a ruler. The victorious Viking chief Harald Fairhair proclaimed himself King of the Norwegians. The battle, and Stavanger, is mentioned in Harald Fairhair’s Saga Heimskringla (http://heimskringla.no/wiki/Soga_um_Harald_Haarfagre), written by Snorri Sturlason.

    Most importantly, there is evidence in North Jæren suggesting a powerful chieftain lived there around the Viking Age. The area is also likely a starting point for the Viking voyages to the British Isles. Most importantly, more Irish metalwork is found in this area than in any other comparable area in Europe.

    Ullandhaug Iron Age Farm (source: Wikipedia)

    Several finds from the Viking Age were uncovered in Stavanger. Perhaps the most famous is the Gausel Queen’s tomb on Gausel (https://web.archive.org/web/20110724175532/http://www.gausel.no/art_rlb97.htm) The grave is one of Norway’s richest woman graves from the Viking Age, and it contained a number of Irish and domestic elements. The manor house on Gausel was likely a centre of power during the Viking Age, and rich finds from boat graves on the site show that there was military and political power here.

    The objects from this grave are on display in the Bergen Museum.

    Christianity comes to Stavanger

    The first Christian impulses came to Stavanger through trade with Europe and Great Britain during the Viking Age. In the mid-10th century, the traditional Norse burial customs stopped. Around the same time, the priests began their work.

    Large stone crosses have been found throughout Stavanger municipality signalling early Christianity. One of the most known is the memorial cross for Erling Skjalgasson, who controlled the south west coast at the time. He fell in 1028 and the cross was put up soon after. The inscription on the cross shows a priest was responsible and the site may have been used as an early church.

    The founding of Stavanger

    Stavanger is one of Norway’s oldest cities. By the early 12th century, it was growing as an urban centre. The Stavanger bishopric was established in the 1120s, Stavanger was officially founded in connection with the construction of the Stavanger Cathedral.

    Bishop Reinhald, who likely came from Winchester in England, is said to have started the construction of the Stavanger Cathedral. It was finished in 1125, and that’s when Stavanger considers its founding.

    St. Mary’s Church shortly before it was torn down

    The fire of 1272

    A large fire in 1272 destroyed much of the inner urban area and cathedral. St. Mary’s Church was built in Stavanger shortly after this fire in a Gothic style. In 1883, a runestone of quartz was found in the foundation wall of the church. The stone says “Kjetil erected this stone after his wife Jorun Utyrmsdatter” and it is from 1000-1050. The church has since been demolished, but there’s a plaque next to Stavanger Cathedral.(https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mariakirken_i_Stavanger) Furthermore, remains under the cathedral shows that there may have been an earlier building on the site from the 800s or 1000s.

    The Reformation

    At the beginning of the 16th century, Stavanger was still the religious centre for southwestern Norway. The Reformation had serious effects on Stavanger as a whole.

    The Reformation dealt a hard blow to the Church and Stavanger. The cathedral, bishop and canons of the monastery were large landowners at the time. Recession began with the loss of people in rural areas, and as a result the revenues of the cathedral and bishop fell dramatically due to reduced income. The King confiscated the bishop’s and monastery’s estate and property. St. Swithun’s casket (https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Svithuns_skrin) disappeared, likely sent to Copenhagen to be melted down and made into coins.

    17th Century Growth

    Stavanger didn’t see growth until the beginning of the 17th century. There was cultural growth in the city, especially with the Stavanger Renaissance, when famous artists from abroad came to create artworks in the city. Their most famous work was the rich redecorating of the Cathedral.(https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stavangerrenessansen)

    The 17th century fires. Photo: Arne Kvitrud, 2018. (Source)

    Sure, there were outbreaks of the plague in 1618 and 1629, and Stavanger did have many fires in the 17th and 18th centuries, but trade was growing with Europe and Great Britain. When the famous Kielland family moved in, the city saw a new generational change.

    19th century industrialisation

    Gamle Stavanger around 1910. In the background you can see a canning factory (Source)

    A model of Stavanger representing the year 1800. (Source)

    Industry came to Stavanger in the 19th century, and the city found new purpose. The most important industries to emerge was shipping, shipbuilding, and the fish canning industry.

    A huge upswing in the precious herring fishing (what Stavanger had lived on since the 16th century) at the turn of the century led to wealth and prosperity. However, it was the low herring catches in the 1870s and 1880s that made the city realise they had to expand beyond these industries. With that, the canning industry began.

    The canning industry

    The old Stavanger Preserving Co. Building

    Stavanger Preserving, founded in 1873, is Stavanger’s oldest canning factory. The factory didn’t just bring canning to Stavanger, but also let to the growth of other industries such as packaging factories, printing houses, box factories and so on.

    Chr. Bjelland & Co AS is the largest and most famous canning factory. Founded by Christian Bjelland (1858-1927), the company initially focused on fresh fish products but from 1889 onwards started processing anchovies in a tin can. In 1893, the company picked up the production of sardines packed with a hermetic seal. (https://www.kingoscar.no/om-oss/historien-om-king-oscar/)

    The company is famous for its creative packaging, often depicting Norwegian heroes such as Fridtjof Nansen. You probably recognise the Kong Oscar brand (still in shops today), for which Christian Bjelland received royal permission to use the image of Oscar II of Sweden. (https://www.norwegianamerican.com/food/king-of-the-sea/)

    The customs house (Source)

    Early 20th Century

    At the turn of the century, Stavanger’s industry was mainly related to fisheries and shipping. Canning was still the main industry; Stavanger earned the nickname “Norway’s canned capital”.

    The interwar depression hit the city hard. The population, which in 1815 reached 2500, increased to 23,500 in 1875. In 1890, the population was only 24,400. By 1920, the population had reached 50,400. (https://snl.no/Stavanger_-_historie)

    Skagen in 1910 (Source)

    World War II

    In the early morning of the 9th of April 1940 Germany invaded Norway. Stavanger had been one of the first targets for the Germans; the day before they had anchored a freighter close to the city despite Norwegian protest. On the 9th, explosions and bomb blasts on Sola Airport and news bulletins on the radio announced the attack on Norway.

    German soldier in Stavanger 1941 (Source)

    German soldiers in Stavanger on Skagen (Source)

    The bombardment on Sola Airport lasted an hour before 52 transport aircraft from Hamburg arrived. In a parachute assault, the transport planes dropped yellow containers containing weapons and equipment and then between ten and twelve paratroopers from each plane. This is the second-ever wartime parachute assault.

    The Norwegians surrendered and 200 to 300 transport aircraft arrived during the day. At 12:30pm, the first German troops advanced on Stavanger without resistance and took over the most important buildings in the city. By the evening, several hundred soldiers and large quantities of material were now at Sola Airport.

    During the war, the Germans had placed high priority on having a good railway linking the airbase at Sola with the rest of the country. The Southern Railway opened in 1944, three years later than planned.

    When the war ended in 1945, there were 15,000 German soldiers in Rogaland County. Before repatriation, the Germans were required to clean up after five years of occupation. 180 German minefields lay along the coast with a total of 480,000 mines. The German Wehmacht were required to clear them. 62 Germans died and 94 were injured during the mine clearance. Mines from this period continue to be uncovered.

    Immediate post-war years

    Little changed for the business community in Stavanger immediately following the war. The canning industry disappeared in the 1960s; during the First World War there had been 54 canning companies with 8000 employees and accounted for 70% of the country’s canned exports.

    Shipping and shipbuilding made up the bulk of industry during the 1950s and 1960s, and were very useful in the brand-new industry that was about to emerge.

    Discovery of oil

    You can’t talk about Stavanger without mentioning the oil industry. After the discovery of oil in the North Sea, Stavanger became the hub for the Norwegian oil sector in the North Sea. A period of hectic growth followed. More than just the general oil industry, consulting companies, local engineering, catering came to Stavanger, as well as growth in the public and private sector.

    Stavanger Today

    The Norwegian Petroleum Museum opened in 1999, and tourism has been growing in importance ever since. Stavanger is becoming a major Norwegian cruise port.

    The University of Stavanger opened in 2005.

    As of 2019/2020 the Ryfast tunnel opened; it is the world’s longest underwater tunnel.

    History of Stavanger

    I hope you enjoyed this overview of the history of Stavanger!

    You can read a more in-depth version of this history, plus walk through Stavanger yourself, with my self-guided walking tour.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Stavanger, Walking Guides

    A Walk Through Gamle Stavanger

    Emma

    Gamle (Old) Stavanger is probably the most known part of Stavanger. It is certainly one of the most visited tourist attractions in the city, and rightly so. Gamle Stavanger is a preserved district of around 155 wooden houses from the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s incredibly charming, scenic, picturesque, and Norwegian.

    I’ve written a walking guide to Stavanger, where I provide a detailed overview of where to walk in Gamle Stavanger. If you are interested in that, click here.

    This article is more of a general guide to Gamle Stavanger. The goal here is to show you what the area is all about and why it’s such a great place to visit.

    Before we start, I should say there is very little information on each individual house and street. There are (very expensive) books on Gamle Stavanger in Norwegian, but as of writing there’s very little in English. I also find it interesting that this is referred to as ‘Old Stavanger’, when the town centre (see the self-guided walk) is much older.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Gamle Stavanger

    View over Gamle Stavanger in the early 20th century (Source)

    It’s not sure how old Gamle Stavanger is. Some houses have been here since the 1700s, but the area was mostly open pastures. Before 1820, there was one row of warehouses along the bay and a few scattered properties on the slope above it.

    As a result of rich herring fishing, shipping, and shipbuilding, there was a huge population growth between 1815-1880. The area where Gamle Stavanger is became the city’s first housing development. The first houses built here were tiny; during an economic boom in the 1860s and 1870s, many were demolished to make way for larger houses. Some original houses remain, but many only exist as parts of a newer construction.

    Source (Click Here)

    After World War II, there was interest in demolishing houses to build apartments. In 1951, Einar Heden (1916-2001) took the initiative to preserve the dilapidated Gamle Stavanger.  On 11 November 1957, the Gamle Stavanger Foundation was founded. Heden became the association’s first chairman. Over the next few years, more began to care about Gamle Stavanger. In 1965 the Council voted unanimously to preserve Gamle Stavanger and 79 buildings. 10 years later, the area was expanded to 154 houses – the current regulation.

    Source (Click Here)

    Today, it is recognised that the existence of Gamle Stavanger is thanks to Heden. Before his conservation work, Gamle Stavanger was one of the least desirable areas. It consisted of rundown wooden buildings owned by the lowest classes. Today Gamle Stavanger is one of the wealthiest areas to live.

    The Canning Industry

    The canning industry is important to Stavanger, and there is a Canning Museum located here. Note that the museum is closed for an extensive renovation and will be closed until spring 2021.

    While most of the factories have been torn down, some still exist. For example, close to the tourist information centre is this grand red building. This is where the Stavanger Preserving Co. was located.

    This is the first cannery to be built in Stavanger, established in 1873.

    The building is no longer used as a cannery; in the 1980s, the company merged with Norway Foods and moved headquarters. Today this building is a bank.

    The Oldest House in Stavanger

    Villa Blidensol is Stavanger’s oldest house, after the Cathedral and the Bishop’s Chapel.

    Blidensol is first mentioned on a map in 1726. It is next mentioned in a written source in 1737. The building itself is thought to be from 1777, though some believe it is older – it’s hard to know what’s original, what was moved here, etc. The villa is built in an Empire style that was probably added in the period 1805-1820. Much of the interior is unchanged.

    The first known owner is Laurits Andersen Smith (1680-1758). He bought several smaller plots and merged them into a large estate. The name isn’t very Norwegian; that is because he came from Scotland. Laurits is the son of Andrew Smith, who did the wood carvings inside Stavanger Cathedral. They owned the home until 1825. From then on, the large estate was continuously subdivided into smaller plots.

    When lawyer Christen Iben Minos bought the house in the mid-1980s, it was quite decayed. He and his wife extensively restored and modernised the house, though keeping it in an old style. Today the villa is privately owned and it’s a little tricky to see.

    The White Houses

    A true highlight of Gamle Stavanger is the white houses. These houses are very characteristically Norwegian, with their weatherboard and ceramic tile roof.

    For me it was a photographers dream, especially with the sun shining. Here are some photos of the houses.

    Characteristic ceramic tile roof. Ceramic is local to Stavanger

    Gamle Stavanger consists of around 173 buildings, though this has risen to 250.

    Why are the houses wooden?

    Wood has historically been the cheapest source of material and more easy to obtain than stone. Stone, on the other hand, is for important buildings like the Stavanger Cathedral. In history, white was the most expensive coat of paint as it showed wealth. The reason these houses are white is not because of this, but because in the 19th century neoclassical was the style, and neoclassical meant white houses.

    On some of the houses, you’ll see mirrors sticking out the side. This is very typical of houses close by the sea. In the old times, if you’re sitting inside and hear someone coming your way, you can use this two-way mirror to check who it is. If it’s someone you like, you can welcome them inside. If it’s someone you don’t like, pretend to not be home! The wives would use these mirrors when gossiping with friends; their husbands were often away at sea.

    In the background you can see the city centre.

    Who owns the houses?

    The houses are privately owned. Originally these were the poorest homes in the city, but now they have become some of the most desired homes. The price tag reflects this.

    Here are two examples of places for sale at the moment. The one at the top is a house with two bedrooms (soverom) on sale for 3.1 million NOK. The second one is an apartment with one bedroom on sale for 3.6 million NOK.

    Issues with Tourists

    In recent years Gamle Stavanger has become a popular destination with tourists. That’s (of course) fine, but in the last couple years there have been issues with tourists. Mostly the issue is that some tourists have been looking through mailboxes, peeking through windows, and even walking into people’s private gardens! Some believe that, because it’s a collection of old buildings, it must be an open air museum. Locals own these homes. You cannot start violating their privacy. I know my readers won’t do it, but keep in mind people do it.

    Part of the problem is the growing number of cruise ships, which dock right outside Gamle Stavanger. The pollution and overcrowding is becoming a problem for residents. Just look at these photos:

    You can see Gamle Stavanger to the left. Source

    Just Google ‘Gamle Stavanger cruise ship’ for many photos like this (or click here).

    In 2019, 234 cruise ships called at Stavanger bringing 496,000 passengers. The vast majority of these come between the tourist season – May to September. Some cruise ships carry up to 5,000 passengers. (Source)

    Don’t get me wrong; I don’t mind cruise ships. After all, I’m a local guide and rely on that income. Cruise ships can do a lot of good. If you’re coming to Stavanger on a cruise ship, be sure to be extra nice to the locals. If you’re going to be in Stavanger when there’s a cruise ship in, perhaps reconsider when you want to leave the hotel room!

    Einar Heden's Plass

    This is a small square where you can sit and reflect. The name is from the man who saved Gamle Stavanger – city architect Einar Heden.

    You’ll see an old power post in the backyard of one of the houses. The square also offers lovely views of Stavanger town.

    Visiting Gamle Stavanger

    Gamle Stavanger is a free, public area in Stavanger city centre. There are plenty of shops, cafes and some museums. It’s perfect for an afternoon visit.

    Gamle Stavanger is located about a five minute walk from the city centre (see circled area above).

    Have you been to Gamle Stavanger? Share your experience in the comments.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Museums, Stavanger

    All You Need to Know about the Oil Museum in Stavanger

    All You Need to Know about the Oil Museum in Stavanger

    On my visit to Stavanger in September 2020, we were stuck looking for places to visit. I am a huge Norwegian history geek, so I was hoping to see the Canning Museum and the Archaeological Museum, but both were closed due to the corona virus. To top things off, we were in Stavanger on my 30th birthday. In a bid to find something to do (and get relief from the cold weather), we went to the oil museum in Stavanger. I never thought I’d turn 30 in an oil museum, but here we are!

    Honestly, the oil museum in Stavanger is a fascinating look into Norway’s petroleum industry. My husband went on about how he felt like he was back in high school (they were taught a lot about the oil industry in Norwegian schools). I learned some things I never new about oil, so it felt worth it.

    In this article...

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The oil industry

    While the museum has a ton of information about the oil industry, I think it’s worth going in with a general understanding about Norway’s oil industry.

    The oil industry is a big topic and hard to condense. When I’m doing tours around Norway, I give a topic about the good, bad and ugly of the oil industry. I’m working on adjusting that into a blog post.

    In the meantime, you can read about the oil industry on the Norwegian government website (it’s in English). Click here.

    The oil museum in Stavanger

    The Oil Museum (Oljemuseet) shows how oil, particularly offshore operations, is Norway’s most important industry. The exhibitions present historical developments in the oil industry. It starts with the exploration in the North Sea and the construction of steel and concrete platforms. It goes right up to modern production ships and subsea systems. Then, the exhibitions look to the future of the oil industry.

    Moreover, the museum is stunning to look at. It’s probably unsurprising that it is designed by an architectural firm, and part of the museum looks like an oil platform when viewed from the outside. The building is a landmark in the Port of Stavanger.

    The Oil Museum opened on the 20th of May 1999 by King Harald V. Currently, it is the most visited museum in Stavanger.

    The museum is a stop on my self-guided walking tour of Stavanger:

    Exhibitions

    The exhibitions include technological advances and how oil revenue has affected Norwegian society. Climate change is a focal point, especially issues with greenhouse gas emissions and global warming. Original objects, models, films, and interactive exhibits convey the history of oil operations on the Norwegian continental shelf. Information boards explain what it’s like to work offshore and underwater.

    For kids, they can slide down a real rescue chute and play on a miniature oil platform. There are tons of interactive exhibits for them to try.

    The museum is spread out over two floors. You enter on the lower floor.

    Lower floor exhibitions

    When you first enter the museum, there’s an extensive timeline. It outlines the development of the oil industry in Norway, from the first exploration to the present day. Since we are in Stavanger, there’s a focus on how the town changed with the discovery of oil. It’s a fascinating timeline with plenty of documents, images and text. You could spend 20 minutes or one hour reading the timeline.

    Short film

    The staff will likely recommend that you watch the short film first. It’s a fictional film and not a documentary, so it’s going to be quite different from the types of museum films you expect. Starring famous Norwegian actor Kristoffer Joner, the film explores a man reflecting on his childhood in Stavanger during the oil boom. His father worked on the rigs, and Joner’s character is bitter towards the oil industry. After all, it took away time with his father. The story is a little out there, but the footage of Stavanger in the 1970s is very interesting. I especially liked how it showed the American influence on Stavanger, with all the bars and cars. 

    Future of the oil industry

    Lastly, on the lower floor, there’s an exhibition about the future of the Norwegian oil industry. Before you go into the exhibit, you’ll see a row of various drilling bits. They kind of remind me of the creatures from horror and sci fi movies!

    The exhibition explains how the oil is state-owned, with the profits being invested abroad. There’s a counter with the current value of the Norwegian oil fund and the current price of oil:

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    What’s great about this exhibition is that it has a balanced opinion. The exhibition shows the protests and newspaper articles in Norway that has had a negative opinion about the oil industry. At the same time, the exhibition shows where they plan to drill for oil in the future, namely in the Arctic. This is a very heated debate at the moment in Norway.

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Moreover, the exhibition also explains what exactly the oil and gas is used for. Norwegian gas supplies 25% of gas to Europe and the UK. Also, Norway doesn’t use its own oil! A downstairs exhibit explains how the steel pipelines are placed on the seabed, linking the Norwegian continental shelf to Norway, Germany, France, Belgium and the UK.

    The upper floor

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    You enter the oil platform recreation once upstairs. It’s a really cool place to walk around, and we had fun messing about in the control room section. All the equipment is authentic and interesting to look at. However, I know so little about the oil platforms that it all looked so foreign. The upstairs exhibitions explain how they search for oil and how the drills work in the ground. From the upstairs platform, you can go outside and slide down a net. We did not as the net looked like it may break one of our bones. There’s also lovely views of Stavanger from the outside!

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    An upstairs exhibition focuses on the impact of climate change around the world. It focuses on Norway’s role in combating climate change. Displays explain protests in Norway against oil, overpopulation, and the government’s decisions. It’s a mixed view, though it may lean towards painting Norway in a positive light. Other topics are changes in the free marked, international collaboration, and technological changes. You can read about the exhibition on their website.

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    The last upstairs exhibition is about the North Sea, focusing on how they work out there. There’s a film showing a British man connecting pipes underwater that is interesting to watch. I was fascinated by the fact they have to spend a good portion isolated as they readjust to the pressure above the sea. You can try on the helmets they wear underwater too.

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Practical Information

    Languages

    The signboards are in English and Norwegian. They have brochures available in more languages like German, Russian and French.

    Restaurant

    Attached to the museum is the Bølgen and Moi Restaurant with lunch and dinner. It has a small but excellent menu plus an extensive drinks range. We had a burger split between the two of us (they even cut the burger in half!) and a local apple juice plus a coffee. It was really good and just what we needed.

    Read about the restaurant

    Visit their website

    Souvenir Shop

    The souvenir shop has a lot of science toys, including experiment kits, slinkies, goo, and so on. If you’ve been to a science museum and seen the kids’ section of the souvenir shop, it’s very similar. There are some t-shirts and caps with the museum logo, and a small collection of books (most are in Norwegian. There’s also some jewellery, if that’s your thing. We bought a magnet from the museum, as we do everywhere.

    Read about the shop.

    Guided Tours

    The museum does offer guided tours in Norwegian, English and German. However, these are not regularly scheduled and most be booked in advanced. They are generally for large tour groups and not couples or individual travellers. That’s a shame because they offer oil tasting at the restaurant, which would be cool to experience.

    Read more

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, History, World War II

    The Most Haunted Places in Bergen

    Haunted Places in Bergen

    I love haunted stories. Every time the husband and I travel somewhere, we do a ghost tour. No, I do not care for ghosts or scary stories. Instead, I like the stories of the everyday and the weird that makes a town sound more unique. Typical walking stories tend to focus on kings, the upper class, and famous people. Ghost stories focus on the lower class, the merchants, the poor. It’s fascinating. So, in the spirit of Halloween, I had to seek out the most haunted places in Bergen.

    Like any good ghost story, the haunted places of Bergen are local legend and not really written about in English. I had to dig through newspapers, Norwegian blogs, and other websites to find the good stuff. Bergen has some crazy stories, as this page will tell.

    If you know any ghost stories in Bergen (or surrounds) add them in the comments!

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Criminals in the Rosenkrantz Tower

    The Rosenkrantz Tower is intimidating in its own right, but anyone who has been inside knows how eerie the basement is.

    A little bit about the tower. It was originally built in 1270 as an apartment for the King, Magnus the Lawmender. When Bergen was part of Denmark, the Danish lord Erik Rosenkrantz built the tower in its current form. There have been alterations to the tower before Rosenkrantz, but his is the most famous. The dungeon was added around the year 1500.

    The dungeon is 4m x 1m, and the ceiling is just high enough to stand up in. Light only comes through a crack in the walls, which are very damp. Imprisoned here were the worst prisoners. The cell was in use from the 16th until the 19th centuries.

    Eternal Guest at the Radisson Blu Hotel

    Maybe you’ll be staying at the Radisson Blu on your stay? Skip this section if so.

    Okay, for those of you who stayed. Before a major renovation at the Radisson Blu, the staff observed strange things. The events took place on the second floor near the nightclub.

    Staff saw the ‘eternal guest’ often. In the mornings, they saw him with a beer glass. The revolving doors into the kitchen also moved without anyone being there. Some employees even reported seeing a shadow following them in the corridors. Sometimes a figure would be seen on the dance-floor after closing time.

    The staff elevator is one of the most affected places. It can only be used with a code, and it links the party rooms to the kitchen. Occasionally the elevator would stop by itself on the second floor. The doors would open and everything was completely dark. No one had been to this floor.

    So, there’s a beer-loving disco ghost wandering the party rooms of the Radisson Blu.

    Hauntings at Bryggen

    Bryggen Tracteursted

    Bryggen Tracteursted is a restaurant located behind Bryggen. It’s in a schøtstuene (assembly room) built in 1708. Of course it’s haunted.
    One night a chef was working while playing some music. Suddenly, the pans from the shelves fell off. The chef is sure that something supernatural was the cause of the events.

    The Hanseatic Games

    Bryggen in general feels very haunted. After all, this is where people have Bergen have lived since the 11th century. It’s the Hanseatic times (1360-1754) that have some creepy stories. In particular are the games that the apprentice merchants would play. One is the water game, held in May. The new boys went to ships on the bay. Their clothes were taken off and a rope tied around their waist. They were then tossed into the water and hoisted up. They repeated this several times. Out at sea, several older men waiting with a rowing boat, armed with sticks. They tried to hit the wet boys. After the ceremony, the boys went back to continue serving the dinner party. One boy is believed to have died when his belly was torn open by a protruding nail outside the ship.

    There are so many stories of these games. Another one is the smoking game. Older boys made a fire, and the younger boys were tied up in ropes and lifted up above the fire. While hanging, the boy was asked questions that he should know the answer to, mostly about the business. If he got the answers right, he was released. If he got an answer wrong, he was lowered further into the fire. One boy is said to have died. The statue outside Svensgården represents that the boy came out of the fire looking he had multiple eyes and noses.

    Lonely Mother at St. Jørgens

    St. Jørgen’s Hospital is one of the best preserved leprosy hospitals in Europe. The Nonneseter Abbey constructed the hospital in the 1300s to treat the growing number of patients. Over the years it developed into one of Bergen’s most important hospitals. Armeur Hansen discovered the cause of leprosy in Bergen and worked near the hospital.

    The patients of St. Jørgens had to live in the hospital. They were self-sufficient with their own vegetable gardens and livestock. They would share rooms roughly 2m x 2m, but had a large kitchen and common area.
    One of my friends once told me a story about the hospital. Now, every time I walk through the hospital grounds (it’s part of my walking tours) I am reminded of this haunting story. A woman was admitted to St. Jørgen’s for having leprosy and had to remain on the property. Every Sunday, a nanny would bring the woman’s children to play in the park across from the hospital. The children had been told their mother had died, and they were unsure why they were playing in this park. They were brought here so their mother could see them.

    Today St. Jørgen’s is the leprosy museum of Bergen, with exhibitions and guided tours.

    Cemeteries around Bryggen

    Cemeteries are always creepy. They are also always haunted. St. Jacobs has an interesting story. Established in 1629 as a cemetery for the poor, it is the oldest cemetery in Bergen. Back then it was very uncommon to bury the poor in marked graves. So, between 60 and 70 percent of the dead had unmarked graves. Meanwhile, the wealthy were buried inside the churches – often in the floor or crypts in the basement.

    In the 19th century, it became less common to bury the wealthy in the church. After all, imagine the smell coming from the church? Eventually, St. Jacob’s became a cemetery for the upper class. The graves of many famous Bergenser’s are there.

    An honourable mention goes to the cemetery around the Bergen Cathedral. That cemetery was the leprosy cemetery. It got so full that they made cemeteries like St. Jacobs.

    Further down the road is the Assistant Cemetery. In 2016, when they were doing work on the railway, they found skulls belonging to 50-60 people. They were likely buried in the 19th century.

    Bergen Prison

    The prison in Bergen was built in the mid-19th century. A reform in the country meant new prisons based on the Philadelphia system. This meant one prisoner per cell, and harsh treatment of each prisoner. The Bergen prison did built one cell for each prisoner, but it became known for being nice to the prisoners. During the 1916 fire, the prison was in peril. The prison management let the prisoners go, asking them to come back the next day. With one or two exceptions, the prisoners returned after the prison wasn’t lost in the fire.

    The Gestapo took over the prison in 1940. One of the Gustapo’s prisoners was Gunvor Mowinckel, who was imprisoned here 1944-45. She and her husband were sheltering refugees during the Norwegian resistance and arrested for this. After an interrogation and torture by the Gestapo, they are imprisoned here. Gunvor wrote:

    “At a point in the Gestapo HQ I was asked by Kesting (Gustapo) how many children I had. When I answered, Kesting said that the children of such a terrible individual weren’t worthy of life.

    Later that day we were transferred to the Bergen County Jail. It was a horrible time. I think the fear for the children and what was coming next was the worst.”

    The prison is now abandoned and certainly has a creepy vibe about it. While the stories aren’t exactly scary, there’s something eerie about the building.

    Town Hall Prison

    The town hall prison is creepier than the main prison. The basement had a cell for 12 prisoners and a room for the mentally ill. There was no fresh air. If they had the opportunity to move around, it was in the corridor outside their cell. No outdoor area was available to them. It wasn’t a prison but a holding cell before sentencing. Prisoners could wait up to two years in this basement cell with stench, darkness, no light, no heat, and no comfort.
    When they were sentenced, they were sent to prison or executed.

    Executions were commonplace. For example, in 1630 they executed a woman for stealing from the parish clerk. In 1632 they accused a girl of causing a shipwreck – she was clearly a witch. After torture, the girl pointed the finger at another woman for causing the disaster. This woman was also executed. If the crime was petty, prisoners were deported to Northern Norway. In 1692, wealthy merchant Jørgen Thormøhlen got permission from the King to take prisoners to his colony in the West Indies.

    As mentioned above, there was a bedlam next to the holding cell. They likely received no treatment. Back then, the mentally ill were treated poorly. For example, in 1634 they executed a man for helping treat someone back to their sanity.

    A room is still preserved in the basement, but it’s seldom open to the public.

    The Apprentice

    Kløverhuset is a shopping mall located on Strandgaten in Nordnes. The shopping mall made news many years ago for noises that were coming from it at night. The noise was so intense that the locals complained to the press. It gained so much attention that a clairvoyant came to inspect the mall. The clairvoyant said she spoke to a figure named Albert Albertsen. Turns out, he was an apprentice to Johan Petersen, the man who started Kløverhuset in 1852.

    No reportings of Albert have been made in recent times, but maybe he’s still there?

    Gestapo Headquarters

    The Gestapo was an executive branch of the German security police during the Second World War. Germans occupied Bergen during the war. The Gestapo had their headquarters in a building close to the theatre. The building became known as a torture site and a symbol of the oppressive occupying power in Norway. Brutal methods when interrogating people became a trademark of the Gestapo.

    Following the drama in Telavåg in 1942 (click here to read about that), the Gestapo brought in the villagers for interrogation. One woman, Martha, did not want to tell the Gestapo about what was happening in Telavåg. She also didn’t want to identify the Norwegians who were part of it. To force a confession, the Gestapo beat Martha with wooden sticks until she lost consciousness.

    800 to 900 prisoners were subjected to violent interrogations by the Gestapo, where they were tied up and hung up in meat hooks in the basement or in offices further upstairs. A total of six resistance fighters died as a direct result of the Gestapo’s torture. 

    The Gestapo tortured many victims to death. To avoid breaking during interrogation, several prisoners jumped to their death from the 4th and 5th floors.

    After the war, the Gestapo in Bergen were convicted of war crimes and sentenced to death. Today a memorial stands outside the building for those who were tortured and died.

    A museum is currently being developed on the fourth floor, where four graves have been preserved. Read more here

    Octavia the Friendly Ghost

    Every theatre has a ghost, and Bergen’s is the friendliest. Her name is Octavia Sperati, and she is one of the female actors from the theatres early days. She is a useful ghost, taking care of the building and the people working there.

    There are several sightings of Octavia. She is observed as a woman in a white dress flying around the corridors. There are reports of knocking noises, footsteps in corridors, and paintings falling off the wall. Some even claim to hear her voice.

    If you want to see her, there is a portrait of her in the lobby. The painting has survived fires and bombings, so people think she’s the ghost.

    Ghosts in the Natural History Museum

    Rakkerdammen is a swamp area located close to the Natural History Museum. The swamp is gone, the remnants are now a pond. The site is an old execution site; ‘rakker’ means ‘executioner’. In the old times, children were told to avoid the swamp as the ghosts could take them into the swamp.
    It’s believed the ghosts haunt the Natural History Museum.. After all, it’s built on the old court square next to the execution site. Unusual activities are said to be the ghosts of those executed. The last execution was in 1803. Anders Lysne was beheaded for leading a farmers’ revolt against forced military service.

    Some of the objects inside the museum are also haunted. The Egypt department has 5,000-year-old statues on display that turn and move. This is even though they are behind glass. Observations of a monk have also been made. The old monk is moving around in the church exhibition area.

    Sibling Drama

    There’s sightings of ghosts near the old Munkeliv Monastery in Nordnes. It’s not from the monastery itself; the monastery is today a park. Rather, it comes from one of the houses close by. Yes, Bergen has a haunted house. The story goes that two siblings were romantically involved with one another and living in a house in Nordnes. The sister got pregnant, which is of course a bad thing. The couple killed the child when it was born. Then it is said the brother killed the sister before hanging himself.

    The park over the monastery is also said to be haunted. After all, the soil was taken from an old cemetery where Bergen’s worst criminals were buried. We’ll explore them now.

    Execution on Nordnes

    The majority of executions took place on the Nordnes Peninsula. There are two separate sites: Galgebakken and the area close to the aquarium.
    Galgebakken means ‘gallows’, and it’s where some executions took place. It is also where pillories were to punish and humiliate prisoners.

    The site close to the aquarium is famous for its witch burning. Over 100 women burned at the stake for being a witch in Bergen. The most famous is Anne Pedersdatter Beyer, who was the widow of priest Absalon Beyer. During the witch trials, it was very uncommon for upper class women like Anne to be accused of witchcraft. Typically, witches came from the lower classes. Being accused of witchcraft could be due to ordinary, everyday accidents. The worse accusations involved women taking part in accidents, most often shipwrecks. It’s believed they burned Anne for being a witch because she was unpopular in Bergen. After all, once you are accused, it was hard to fight that.

    Later on, the site was used for executions. Between 1842 and 1902, 1888 people were sentenced to death in Norway but only 20 were executed. Four people were beheaded in Bergen after 1814 on this site. One was the counterfeiter Jens Fenstad. Another was murderer Jakob Alexander Jakobsen Wallin. The latter was the last public execution in Bergen in 1876. 5,000 people were present when Jakob was executed. Those present were from the lower classes. The upper classes had read in the newspaper to stay away from the execution.

    St. Pauli Cemetery

    The site where St. Pauli Cemetery used to be is said to be the most haunted place in Bergen. The cemetery was established around 1650 for the poor and criminals of Bergen. It is often said that there were ghosts both inside and outside the walls. This is because they buried the poor in the walls. Meanwhile they buried the executed criminals outside the walls. Jens Fenstad, the counterfeiter, was buried outside the wall. A stone slab was over his grave until the end of the 19th century. A courthouse used to stand next to the cemetery.

    Ever since the cemetery was built over and the area got gas lanterns (and now modern lighting), the ghost activity has calmed down. Additionally, in the late 19th century the remains were moved to Møllendal Cemetery. The soil was used to built Nordnes Park, which they think has hauntings from the criminals.

    Resources

    histos.no / An excellent website with historical stories about Bergen

    Nordnes Republikken / A blog about the Nordnes Peninsula

    NRK.no

    BT.no

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Southern Norway, Stavanger, Walking Guides

    The Streets of Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    The Streets of Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    I love Stavanger. It’s one of those places that I didn’t think much of at first, until I really got to walk around. It’s got such a fascinating history, from the Cathedral’s founding to the canning industry and now this oil wealth. When visitors come to Stavanger, they typically go straight to Gamle Stavanger. In my opinion, the city centre is just as charming with its wooden houses, architecture, and history. So, I made a Stavanger self-guided walking tour.

    In this article...

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Start: Torget

    Welcome to Stavanger! Our walk starts at Torget, the main square and centre of Stavanger. Until the 11th century, it was nothing more than a bay in the middle of a sandy beach. It was filled in and extended by the locals, and over the centuries has become an important commerce and meeting place. 

    Today Torget has a new fish market building and several restaurants. More houses stood here originally, but over the last century, they were removed. All the old warehouses are now restaurants and bars.

    Kongsgård Royal Estate

    Kongsgård is a historic royal residence. The property owned all this land you see around you now, including the lake. Until the Reformation, the building was used by the bishop and his staff. The bishop’s manor was looted, and houses were burned down during Pentecost 1539 by about 60 pirates. In 1607, the sheriff received permission to rebuilt, and he did. However, by the late 18th century Kongsgård was broke. 

    Kongsgård became the Stavanger Cathedral School in 1824. Kongsgård is mentioned a lot in the writing of Alexander Kielland as he was a student here.

    During World War II, the Germans used Kongsgård as a quarter for the Local German Commander. A fire on Easter Sunday 1942 destroyed large parts of the building. Initially, the Germans didn’t want to let the fire brigade put out the fire. As a result, the extend of the fire was greater than it should have been. 34 students lost their lives during the war. 10 lecturers from the school were sent to concentration camps. From 1945, Kongsgård became the school. The main building is from the Middle Ages and includes the bishops chapel and knights hall.

    Byparken

    Until the 1960s, this was part of the Kongsgård property. The part closest to the cathedral used to be a cemetery. It’s believed there was a lavish garden and ponds as far back as 1299.

    Stavanger Cathedral

    Most importantly, we are at the town’s most famous landmark: the Stavanger Cathedral. This is the oldest cathedral in Norway; older than Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. I know we’ve had a lot of history so far on this walk, but it’s all coming together!

    Web link

    Stavanger was founded as a city in 1125, around the same time the Cathedral was built. The royals in Norway needed to have some control over the pagans in the south. They introduced Christianity with force and built the Cathedral. Yet, it’s a bit of a chicken and egg situation. What came first – the town or the cathedral? I can’t imagine them building a cathedral in the middle of nowhere, but the town likely didn’t exist until the cathedral was built. Anyway.

    Subsequently, a fire in 1272 destroyed the cathedral. Above all, it was rebuilt between 1276 and 1303, this time in stone, and it took on the Gothic feel we see today. 

    The Ruins of St. Mary's Church

    Yes, there’s no church here today. Most importantly, St. Mary’s Church stood here from the 12th century until the 19th century, when it was torn down. The church has a sad and complicated history. 

    It is uncertain why St. Mary’s Church stood so close to Stavanger Cathedral. One theory is that is a replacement cathedral from the great fire of 1272. Above all, it took a long time to rebuild the cathedral, so it was necessary to have a temporary house of worship. Another theory is that it was a separate independent church. The church may be from the 12th century. Around that time churches called St. Mary’s went up in Nidaros, Bergen, Oslo and Tønsberg.

    However, the church fell into disrepair after the Reformation in 1537. It became a hangout for the towns drunkards. In 1565, the town’s bourgeoisie took over the church and converted into a town hall and parliament. The city’s gallows stood outside. A prison was built in the church and developed a bad reputation for great suffering. 

    Moreover, in 1865, the church became a fire station. Less than 20 years later, the fire brigade and prison moved out. A city engineer proposed that the building is antique and thus should be torn down. The city demolished the church in 1883.

    Donkirkeplassen

    This is the name of the square next to the ruins of St. Mary’s Church. This is the site of the old Bishops Estate. It was the residence of the bishops of Stavanger and bordered the old St. Mary’s Church. For instance, the name of our next point of interest, Laugmannsgata, comes from two lawyers who lived in Bispegården. The building was demolished in 1957. The Norges Bank building is where the NOKAS robbery took place.

    Laugmannsgata

    This is one of the city’s oldest streets, linking Domkirkeplassen to Arneageren. The name comes from two lawyers who lived at Bispegården in the 18th century. 

    Arneageren

    Arneageren is a public square. It is home to the culture house, which was built in 1987. The culture house has various galleries, cafes, kiosks, a cinema and an art school for kids.

    The Film Theatre building is next to the culture house and a little older. Dating back to 1924, the building is neoclassical. It is regarded as one of the most important representatives of this style in Rogaland county. The Film Theatre was rebuilt in connection with the culture house in 1988. The square is well-known in Stavanger. Throughout the week, political and religious organisations distribute brochures. There is regular music from groups and street musicians.

    Søregata

    Søregata runs along the border of the old Arnegård farm. While the street itself is old, the exact age is unknown. In the 19th century, this street was known for its eateries and bars. Many workers and sailors lived along this street and there was a liquor distillery at the end. The cafes would display the dish of the day in the window. It’s not like the Asian restaurants (if you’ve been to countries like Japan) that have plastic displays. No, these cafes used real food. By the end of the day, the food had attracted many flies. 

    Mauritzengården

    Mauritzengården is a house from 1905. It was commissioned by soap factory owner Svan Mauritzen.  The building is considered one of the city’s finest Art Nouveau brick buildings. It is built in red brick with a corner tower and a spire. 

    Kirkegata

    Kirkegata is the first ever pedestrian street in Norway – announced in 1960. The name means ‘Church Street’, so the street leads to Stavanger Cathedral. If you turn left you’ll be at Stavanger Cathedral in two blocks. 

    It’s believed that Kirkegata was a street from before the year 1100. It’s had different names throughout history, including Urgata and Holmengata. Urgata refers to a natural clock. One theory is that building materials for Stavanger Cathedral were stored here, and that a wrecked stone was tipped down and turned into a clock. Holmen refers to the flat edge near the water – today it’s the name fo the northern part of Stavanger inner city. After the fire of 1860, the street got the name Kirkegata.

    Steinkargata

    This is an old street that linked the two main streets Østervåg with Kirkegata. It previously had the name “The Street to Østervåg”, indicating its purpose. Today’s name refers to a stone vessel used to moor boats. A wharf called “Laksebrygga” (Salmon Wharf) used to be here. Until the 1850s, fishermen docked here. The 1860 fire destroyed both sides of the street, so everything was rebuilt after that. 

    Sølvberggata

    Sølvberggata is from around the 17th century. The name comes from a large rock that used to stand where Arneageren is today; it was blasted away just after World War II. Sølvberg means ‘Silver mountain’ and refers to a large rock that used to stand where Arneageren is today. 

    Østervåg

    We’ve made it to Østervåg! This is the city’s main street. The name roughly means ‘East Bay’ and refers to the stretch of sea nearby. Østervåg was the natural harbour for scheduled shipping traffic and the fishing fleet. The bay area used to have shipyards. 

    Østervåg is one of the most important streets from the Middle Ages. The property Arnegård was here, and Østevåg ran through it. The street linked the bishop’s pier (Bispebrygga) to the Stavanger Cathedral. Østervåg is first mentioned in 1297 in relation to this pier. It’s believed that this was the medieval town centre. 

    The area we are on is very narrow, but it gradually becomes wider. This marks where the 1860 fire spread. The narrower part of the street was untouched, whereas the wider part of the street had burned down and was regulated and levelled after the fire. The fire started at the corner of Østervåg and Breigata. 

    Geoparken

    Geoparken (built 2008) is a playground built with items used in the oil industry. The layout is designed to replicate the formation of the Troll Field in the North Sea. 

    Norwegian Oil Museum

    The Norwegian Oil Museum is an excellent place to learn about the Norwegian oil industry. The museum covers the entirety of Norway’s oil journey. It stars from early exploration to discovery, foreign help and current environmental concerns. The museum has a lot of information boards, photographs, footage, and objects used to help develop the oil platforms. Main Article: The Oil Museum

    Norwegian Oil Museum

    I have a separate article for the Norwegian Oil Museum, which you can read via the link below. 

    Oil Museum

    The Colour Street

    Welcome to Norway’s most colourful street!

    The concept of having a colourful street starts in 2005. Hairdresser Tom Kjørsvik wanted to create a vibrant atmosphere to draw more visitors to the area. Scottish artist Craig Flannagan designed the colours to have a Miami Vice theme. It’s not only the colours that make the street work. The houses have deliberate colour combinations. Each house as a series of colours for its facade, doors and window frames. Each colour scheme harmonises the house.

    View their Facebook page for current events

    Valberget

    Valberget Viewpoint is the site of the city’s old fortress. The date of the fortress is unknown. The land was likely given to Stavanger during the Nordic Seven Years’ War in 1567. The city likely needed defence for the sea after the Swedes were trying to take Bergen from the sea in 1564.

    Above all, fires have destroyed the fortress many times. There’s not much of the original fortress remaining. Its current appearance is from the 19th century. They had 12 12-pound cannons circling the tower. In 1840, they discarded the cannons when four men went on trial for refusing to shoot with them. They were acquired because the cannons were proven to be life threatening. Today the cannons are decorations on the viewpoint.

    The tower is not original – it was built in 1850 and is a lookout tower. 

    Skagen

    Skagen is a street that runs parallel along the bay, Vågen, linking Torget to Holmen. It is one of the city’s liveliest streets with many shops and nightclubs. But it is also home to some of Stavanger’s oldest buildings. 

    That is to say, the name Skagen is common all throughout Scandinavia and refers to a headland. It’s believed the street was here in the Middle Ages and is largely unchanged from the 13th century. Archaeological finds show that there were buildings here in the Middle Ages. 

    We are in the upper part of Skagen, making our way down to the lower and older part.

    The Clarion Hotel is where a cannery used to be. The cannery ran for three generations before being demolished in 1964 and replaced with the hotel. For example, Chr. Bjelland & Co, is one of Stavanger’s most famous canneries (see the history section). 

    Certainly, as we walk along Skagen, you’ll notice many references to shipbuilding, merchants, and steamships (dampskip). It indicates what exactly this street was used for. 

    Skagen 18

    Most importantly, Skagen 18 is one of the city’s oldest and most famous buildings. It is from after the 1684 fire, though a building stood here before then. The oldest known inhabitants are Sidsel Olsdatter Cruys and Albert Albertsen Libert. They aren’t famous Norwegians; just residents who have been remembered in history thanks to their house being the longest lasting. They lived here between 1687 and 1700. Moreover, inside the building are rosemaling decorations from before 1710. Merchant and shipowner Ole Smith Plow is the next owner; establishing his business in 1768. In 1787, the building got its Rococo facade.

    Today it is a bakery.

    M/S Rogaland

    Rogaland was built by the local shipyard in 1929. She sailed in the Coastal Express Service between Oslo and Stavanger during the day. At night, she did the Night Service between Stavanger and Bergen.

    In Bergen in April 1944, during the occupation, there was a large explosion on the harbour. That explosion killed one crew member of the Rogaland, injured five and seriously damaged the ship. The ship sank to the bottom of the bay. Declared a write-off, compensation went to the owner and the Stavangerske Company bought the wreckage. It was sealed in a shipyard in Bergen and then towed to a shipyard in Stavanger for repairs. Repairs finished in 1947. The ship resumed regular service at a limited passenger capacity. 

    After sending service in 1965, a group of enthusiasts purchased the ship in the 1980s. After lots of restoration, it is operational and can carry up to 100 passengers. The ship features in the 2016 film Dunkirk as a painted white hospital ship. The ship may or may not be in the harbour. If you walk onto the other side of the bay, you’ll see an information board for the ship. 

    Torget

    We’ve made it back to Torget and are now at the end of our walk.

    I hope you enjoyed this Stavanger self-guided walking tour.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, Walking Guides

    Basics of Bergen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    I’ve put together a Bergen self-guided walking tour designed to inspire and plan your trip to Bergen!

    This walking tour is for those who may be in Bergen for a limited time, or may be wondering what they can do with their time. The tour doesn’t go over much history and everyday life topics that I cover in my other walking tours. Rather, it explains what you can see and do in Bergen.

    In this article, I’ve provided not just the walking tour but links to other pages on my website where I explain the topic in greater detail.

    Here we go!

    Join me on a walking tour!

    I do in-person walking tours of Bergen too! If you want to experience Bergen with a guide, click the button below to see my tours.

    https://www.ilovebergen.net

    Bergen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Start: Bryggen

    Bryggen

    Here we are on Bryggen, Bergen’s UNESCO World Heritage site. Bryggen, which is ‘wharf’ in Norwegian, was built in the 12th century. It was the commercial centre of Norway and is likely Scandinavia’s first commercial town. 

    Between 1360 and 1754, Bryggen was the trading centre of the Hanseatic League. They were a German merchant organisation that dominated trade in the Baltic and North Seas. After a fire in 1955, the first archaeological excavation took place under Bryggen. Most importantly, the remains of the first-ever warehouses were discovered along with hundreds of objects from life in the 13th century. In short, they are on display at the Bryggen Museum.

    Bergen Fortress

    If you keep walking straight ahead, you’ll reach the Bergen Fortress. Called ‘Bergenhus’, the fortress area is from the 13th century when Bergen was the capital of Norway. King Håkon Håkonsson had ‘Håkon’s Hall’ constructed for the royal wedding of his son, Magnus the Lawmender. When Magnus became King around 1270, he wrote down the first laws of Bergen (hence his name) and had the stone tower you see constructed. 

    When Norway became part of Denmark in the 16th century, the Danish lord of Bergenhus, Eric Rosenkrantz, reconstructed the tower and named it after himself. Many of the old royal buildings were torn down, including a 12th century church. The fortress became more military than royal house. During World War II, the German soldiers used Bergenhus as a base. Certainly, you can see remains of buildings from the 11th century up until World War II. 

    We don’t walk into the fortress on this Bergen self-guided walking tour; it’s worth covering on its own walk.

    Read more: A walk through the Bergen Fortress

    Bryggen Museum

    The Bryggen Museum focuses on the life of Bryggen, the wharf area in Bergen. For example, the museum displays hundreds of objects categorised according to their everyday purpose, including game pieces, hair combs, religious artefacts, clothing, and even a toilet! The museum has just undergone a major renovation and is well worth visiting. One of my favourite displays is a large television screen that goes through the development of Bryggen and all the fires we’ve had – there has been dozens! The souvenir shop is also worth visiting, and there is a café inside. 

    Bryggen Museum website

    St. Mary’s Church

    This is the oldest building in Bergen. That is to say, it was built between 1130 and 1170, St. Mary’s Church has seen the least damage from fires and remains more or less original. The two towers are from the early 14th century, and the stained glass window is the first in Norway. Inside the church is incredibly well decorated. This is because the Hanseatic League thought St. Mary’s Church was a good luck charm. Most importantly, they brought artwork from all over Europe to the church. Inside, the artworks span a period of 400 years from all over Europe. Today St. Mary’s Church is Anglican, though it was built as a Catholic Church. 

    Sandviken Area

    If you turn left and walk for around 10 minutes, you’ll reach the suburb Sandviken. Sandviken is a historic fishing village with many 18th century wooden houses. Above all, it’s very charming and very ‘Bergen’. At Sandviken you’ll find the Fisheries Museum, the Fjellveien scenic footpath, and a little further along is the Gamle Bergen open air museum. 

    We don’t walk into Sandviken on this Bergen self-guided walking tour; it’s worth covering on its own walk. For example, I’m currently putting together a Sandviken walk.

    Fløibanen Funicular

    The Fløibanen is a funicular that will take you to the top of Mt. Fløyen, one of the seven mountains that surrounds Bergen city centre. The mountain is 320m (1000ft) high and has gorgeous views from the top. Most importantly, during busy times of the day, the funicular runs continuously and takes 5-8 minutes to reach the top. You can download an app to buy tickets and see the schedule or buy on at the ticket counter. 

    Behind the funicular station you’ll see a zig-zag path to the top. Follow this if you’d rather hike to the top of Mt. Fløyen. The hike takes about 45 minutes and is considered an easy hike (by Norwegian standards). Signs will lead you to the top. 

    We don’t walk up Fløyen on this Bergen self-guided walking tour; it’s something to do on your own.

    Read more: Walking up Mt. Fløyen

    Fløibanen Website

    Lille Øvregaten

    For instance, this is just an idea of what you can find in this area. If you begin to walk on the streets on the side of the hill, you’ll find old timber houses with plenty of charm. One of my favourite things to do in this area is to just get lost! I’m working on a walking tour called ‘Along the Mountainside’ which will take you through the most secret of narrow streets. It’s due in early 2021.

    The Allmenningen Streets

    This wide street is called an ‘allmenningen’. This is a purposely built street from the 16th century designed to prevent fire spreading rapidly between buildings – you’ll notice many streets in Bergen end in the word ‘allmenningen’. 

    Kong Oscars Gate

    Kong Oscars Gate is one of the oldest roads in Bergen. It is the old highway leading to southern Norway. Along this road, you’ll find many historical buildings. Along Kong Oscars Gate and up on the hill is the same layout from after the largest fire in Bergen, 1702. Most of the buildings date from that period. 

    If you turn left and follow the road, you’ll pass the Shoe Street (Skostredet) with many cool restaurants and bars). Then you pass the Bergen Cathedral, Leprosy Hospital, and end up at the historic city gate. The city gate is around a 10-15 minute walk from where you are now. Past the gate is the wealthy area Kalfaret and the Lungegård Lake, both covered in separate walking tours.

    If you turn right, you’ll pass 18th-century wooden houses with many trendy bars and cafes. A little further down is the famous hot dog stand of Bergen. The road to the right ends at Bryggen. 

    Kong Oscars Gate is not covered in depth on this Bergen self-guided walking tour. I am working on a separate self-guided walking tour for this fascinating part of town! For example, walk up and down it on your own to see all the history here.

    Church of the Cross

    This is one of three medieval churches left in Bergen: the other two are the Bergen Cathedral (Domkirken) and St. Mary’s Church. Unlike St. Mary’s Church, Korskirken has been affected by almost every fire Bergen has had (remember – dozens!) and been rebuilt in a different style every time. The name comes from a legend that the first Korskirken was built with a piece of Christ’s cross in the walls. Today the church is used by the missionaries in Bergen.

    Torget & The Fish Market

    We are now on the square, Torget (translates to ‘the square’). Here you can see a statue of Ludvig Holberg. He’s a famous 17th/18th century writer and political figure. You may recognise the name from Edvard Grieg’s Holberg Suite. Grieg wrote the Suite on Holberg’s 200th birthday. 

    Across the street, past the statue, is the fish market. The fish market in Bergen is famous – here you can try many local products from salmon to cod to trout, tuna, and more. There’s also Red King Crab from the Barents Sea, seal oil, whale meat, paella, dried fish snacks, mussels, and anything that comes from the sea. It’s a great place to try fresh seafood. The large glass building has a seafood restaurant on the lower floor. The tourist information centre is on the higher floor. 

    Torgallmenningen

    We are now in a part of Bergen that is more modern. That is because it was affected by the last great fire of Bergen in 1916, and everything we see was rebuilt after that period.

    On Torgallmenningen you’ll find shopping centres (Galleriet and Xhibition) and many department stores. 

    The Blue Stone

    The Blue Stone is the meeting point of Bergen. Just past the Blue Stone you’ll see St. John’s Church (Johanneskirken), the largest church in Bergen. It’s from the late 19th century. If you walk up to St. John’s Church and then turn left you’ll be in the University area with museums and a botanic garden. Past that is the working-class suburb of Møhlenpris and the gorgeous Nygård Park. To the right of St. John’s is the hidden area of Sydnes – a historic timber house suburb. At the end of Sydnes is the Hurtigruten Terminal. 

    Turn to your right. At the top of the slope is a large concrete building. This is the Theatre. It was established by the famous violinist Ole Bull in 1850 as the first theatre in Norway to perform in Norwegian. Before then, Danish was seen as the language of the elite and was more widely used. Outside the theatre is a statue of Henrik Ibsen, the famous Norwegian playwright. He worked in the theatre when he was in his 20s. If you continue past the theatre you’ll be in the suburb Nordnes – regarded as one of the most picturesque suburbs of Bergen. At the end of the Nordnes Peninsula is the Bergen Aquarium.

    However, Nordnes and Sydnes are not covered in this Bergen self-guided walking tour. They will be covered in their own walks – coming soon!

    The Pavilion

    This pavilion is from the late 19th century, though it was basically replaced during the last restoration in 2019. The plants here change according to the season. 

    To the left, you’ll see a statue of Edvard Grieg. Edvard Grieg is Norway’s most famous composer. He was born in Bergen in 1843 and lived most of his life here, passing away in 1907. Grieg is attributed with showcasing Norwegian folk music and being inspired by nature. About 10km (6 mi) outside of Bergen is Troldhaugen, Edvard Grieg’s home and today a museum. It is well worth visiting, especially between May and October when they have daily lunchtime piano concerts there. 

    They play Beethoven, Mosart, etc. Just kidding, of course they play Edvard Grieg music! The brick building behind Grieg is the Telegraph Building – today it’s a department store. 

    Read more: The Edvard Grieg Museum, Troldhaugen

    To the right is another brick building. This is the first of the four KODE art galleries. These are the large collection of art galleries in Scandinavia. The first KODE gallery displays various crafted objects. The opening hours change quite a lot, so check the website for details. We’ll see the other KODE galleries at our next and last stop: Byparken

    Byparken

    Here we are at Byparken! This park was laid out in the early 20th century. Before then, this lake connected to the fjord and many people used to dock their boats in this area. I cover this topic more on my Lungegård Lake walking tour. Byparken is used for many festivals and markets, including our Christmas Market and Food Market. On Norway’s National Day, 17 May, this is where the festivities are. 

    Above all, the large mountain the background is Mt. Ulriken – the tallest of the seven Bergen mountains at 640m (2000ft). It is possible to take a cable car to the top. A minibus departs from the fish market in the summer months to take you there. 

    Between the lake and Mt. Ulriken is the train station, the library, and the bus terminal with a large shopping centre on top (Storsenter). To the left of the lake, you’ll see a row of colourful houses. Many of Bergen’s newest and coolest cafes are opening up in these houses. Behind them are 18th-century wooden houses in the area ‘Marken’ – this is also where the Leprosy Hospital is. 

    To the right of the lake are the other three KODE galleries. KODE 2 is for modern art (and has a shop and café). Most importantly, the third KODE has Bergen’s Munch exhibition as well as a very good National Romantic exhibition. KODE 4 has famous foreign artworks and an exhibition for Nicolai Astrup. it also has the highly-rated ‘Lysverket’ restaurant.

  • Hardangerfjord, Odda, Stave Churches

    Røldal Stave Church

    Røldal Stave Church

    Røldal Stave Church is a special church. With its position on the edge of three counties and the road between east and west, Røldal has welcomed travellers for thousands of years. The stave church became an important pilgrimage site (the second-most important after Nidaros Cathedral) for these travellers. After all, the crucifix that has hung in the church for 1000 years was known to have healing powers.

    I got to visit the Røldal Stave Church in September 2020. While the inside was closed, the outside is as beautiful. While churches in Norway can blend into one another, each one stands out for its story. I’ve put together an overview of the history of this church so you can see why it’s so special to visit.

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    The E134 Highway

    Røldal Stave Church is located along the E134, a major highway between east and west Norway. You can find my guide for the E134 by clicking the link below.  

    The E134 Highway
    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Røldal Stave Church

    The Røldal Stave Church dates back to around 1250 and the architect is unknown. Like many stave churches, Røldal Stave Church has changed in appearance since its construction. Originally, the church was a singular room, but it has since received a bell tower and choir out the back.

    The church before the last renovations between 1915 and 1918 (Source)

    The first major renovation took place after the Reformation in the 16th century. Inside the church, Lutheran decorations replaced Catholic ones. Further renovations took place in 1884 when the stone floor was removed and sold at an auction. The last renovations were in 1915-1918, giving the church its current appearance. Removing the 19th-century panelling revealed the Renaissance interior. A new gallery protects the walls and a new foundation wall is under the church. It’s likely the old cultural layers of the church are still under the main room (ship).

    The Crucifix (Source: VisitNorway)

    The Crucifix

    As mentioned above, Røldal Stave Church is famous for its crucifix. This crucifix isn’t any crucifix; it has healing powers.

    Legend has it that a blind man found the crucifix while fishing. He caught something heavy, and when he raised it a Christ picture appeared in the sea. They tried to lift it into the boat, but it was too heavy. The man struggled for so long that swear pored from his brow into his eyes. He had to let go and wipe his eyes – he then suddenly had his sight restored! He understood a miracle happened to him and resumed struggling to get the Christ, vowing to donate it to a church. Only when he mentioned Røldal Church did the crucifix lighten and he was able to lift it. He rowed to shore and gifted it to the church.

    It’s said that every Midsummer Eve the church sweat, and this sweat could heal the ill. When Lutheran became the main religion, attempts to stop this ‘cult worship’ became common. Worshipping icons in the Lutheran religion is idolatry and forbidden by the church.

    Even so, mass took place every Midsummer Eve. This lasted until 1835, when the Provost Ole Nicolai Løberg visited Røldal, saw what was happening, and forbid it. Still, pilgrims continued to visit the crucifix until 1850, when the practice ended.

    Today, the crucifix is the only surviving cult object in Norway’s pilgrim churches.

    The church is a votive church, meaning that it received large donations from the pilgrims. The small village became very prosperous and grew quickly.

    The altar and baptismal font (Source: Wikipedia)

    Interior Decoration

    Sadly, most of the interior decoration is now in the Bergen Museum. This includes wooden sculptures of St. Olav and Mary and Baby Jesus from around 1250, and the archangel Michael from around 1200. Yet, the crucifix is still located in the church.

    The church has staves, but they are only in the corners. Most stave churches have a raised central space, making the staves much more visible. The baptismal font is soapstone and dates back to around the time the church was built, as is the crucifix. The altarpiece is from Lutheran times, around 1629.

    Legend has it there was a cod backbone on the wall for some time. The story goes that two men were fishing in the Røldal Lake, which is freshwater and has no cod. One of the men, who were not from the village, said: “Røldal Church is no more a healing church than there is no cod in Røldal Lake!” Soon after, his fishing line began pulling, and he pulled up a cod! The backbone hung in the church for some time. I love a good legend, whether there is much truth to it.

    Is it a stave church?

    During the renovations in 1844, questions arose about the construction of the church. The building method differs from other stave churches. An investigation into the construction method took place. The resulting opinion is that the church may not be a stave church. Some believe that the church is a post church; the predecessor of the stave church. When categorising the church, it is like the Møre-type stave churches.

    Detailing around the main door

    Architecture

    The church is a rectangular-shaped nave and chancel with a saddle over the roof. There are similarities to Finnesloftet in Voss, one of the oldest buildings in Norway. Unlike stave churches, Røldal Stave Church does not have a decorated panel. Furthermore – it is one of few stave churches to rest on a stone foundation.

    Memorial outside the church

    Outside the church is a memorial stone commemorating the people from Røldal who helped in the fight for freedom independence from Sweden in 1905.

    Visiting the church

    Røldal Stave Church is located 44 mins (42km / 26 miles) from Odda and 5 mins (4.1km / 2.6 miles) from the Ryfylke Scenic Road/Horda.

    It is possible to take a public bus from Odda. From the stop Røldalsvegen ved gågata in Odda downtown take the number 930 bus towards Odda-Seljestad vekt for 16 stops / 36 minutes until you reach Seljestad vektstasjon. From there, take the bus number NW180 towards Oslo Bus Terminal for three stops (20 mins) until you reach Bruleitet. It’s then a 6 minute walk to the church. It’s worth noting that the second bus is a regional bus and therefore does not run regularly, so you really have to plan your time.

    Most people drive to Røldal Stave Church.

    The church is open during the summer months for a small fee. Click here to view current opening information.

    Parking is free and in front of the church. There are toilets on the property, but they are only open during the summer

    The E134 Highway

    Røldal Stave Church is located along the E134, a major highway between east and west Norway. You can find my guide for the E134 by clicking the link below.  

    The E134 Highway
    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide