The History of Geiranger
The history of Geiranger is surprisingly detailed considering the location! Geiranger is a small village located at the head of the Geirangerfjord in western Norway, renowned for its dramatic scenery and now a hub for fjord tourism. In fact, it is one of the most visited places in Norway!
Yet, behind its stunning natural beauty lies a rich history that stretches from the Stone Age through the Viking era, medieval times, and into the modern age. Over the centuries, Geiranger’s remote geography – nestled among steep mountains and a deep fjord – has profoundly shaped its culture, livelihood, and development.
This historical overivew explores Geiranger’s journey through time, from its early settlement and Viking-age farming era to its transformation into a once-isolated fjord community and, ultimately, a bustling tourist destination, all while highlighting how the landscape has profoundly influenced life at every turn. I think it’s important to understand the historic significance of these places, especially if you are planning to visit yourself.
In this article...
Norway's Coastal Ferry
Geiranger is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below.
Early Settlement & Viking Times
Finds from the Stone Age and Bronze Age have been uncovered around the fjord, suggesting that small communities once inhabited this area in prehistoric times. By the Iron Age and into the Viking Age, Geiranger was surely inhabited – burial mounds at the Vinje farm above the fjord, for example, bear witness to Viking-era activity in the valley.
The name Geiranger is of Old Norse origin: geirr meaning “spear” and angr meaning “fjord,” likely a reference to the fjord’s long, tapered shape. This name, along with the Norse farm names scattered across the hillsides, reveals the area’s deep-rooted Viking Age heritage.
During the early centuries of settlement, Geiranger served as a meeting and trading place for coastal fjord people and those from the interior. They would gather at a site called Merok on the fjord shore to barter fish, hides, and salt from the coast in exchange for grain, livestock, and other inland goods. This exchange underscores how geography influenced the economy: the sea’s bounty met the inland’s agriculture through Geiranger’s marketplace.
Medieval Life on the Fjord
During the medieval era (c. 1000–1500 AD), Geiranger was a small, isolated farming village. The introduction of Christianity reached even this remote fjord: by the mid-15th century, the villagers had built their first chapel. The earliest records of a church in Geiranger date back to 1589, but it was noted at the time that the church was old, likely founded as a wooden chapel around the 15th century. This medieval church (possibly a simple stave church) signifies a settled community by that time. Administratively, Geiranger was part of the parish of Norddal at that time, meaning residents had to endure long journeys—often by boat or over mountain trails—to attend regional church gatherings before they had their chapel. The establishment of a local church, however, became a focal point for the scattered farmsteads, reinforcing a sense of community in the valley.
The village’s geography—surrounded by mountains with only the fjord as a transport route—reinforced this isolation. Steep footpaths connected a handful of farm clusters, but traversing the hills was tough and often impossible in winter. To reach markets or neighbours in other valleys, people had to hike over high passes or row long distances along the fjord. This physical isolation meant that local culture and traditions developed with little outside influence, and tight-knit cooperation among families was essential for survival.
How Farms Worked in Medieval Times
Geiranger’s medieval and early modern farmers made the most of what the land had to offer. Arable plots were carved out of mountainsides in terraced fields, and livestock (mainly goats, sheep, and cows) were raised on whatever pasture could be found. Many farms were perched on perilously steep ledges above the fjord – a testament to how every scrap of usable land was precious. On these mountain farms, life was incredibly harsh. Families had to climb narrow trails to reach their homesteads, and legend holds that parents would tether small children with ropes to keep them from falling off the sheer cliffs. An infamous example is the Skageflå farm, clinging to a cliff 250 metres above the water; before part of it was destroyed by a rockslide in 1873, its residents indeed tied their children to prevent deadly tumbles. Such practices underscore how Geiranger’s dramatic geography dictated everyday life, from building techniques (stone walls and timber houses hugging the rock face) to safety precautions rooted in local lore.
From Fjord Farm to Tourist Destination
The 19th century brought about dramatic changes that would propel Geiranger out of its long period of isolation. The first hints of modernisation arrived in 1858, when a scheduled steamship route began stopping at Geiranger. For the first time, residents had a regular ferry link to other villages and the coastal town of Ålesund. This weekly boat service meant essential goods and news from the wider world could arrive more easily, and local farmers could export their butter, cheese or wool. It was a small revolution in connectivity – the fjord was now a marine highway bringing Geiranger closer to the world beyond its mountains.
Then came the pioneers of tourism. In 1869 Geiranger welcomed its very first cruise tourists – the British Backhouse family, who sailed their yacht Nereid into the fjord and came ashore. At the time, there were no hotels or tourist facilities at all. The Backhouses and their crew, being naturalists and adventurers, captivated and puzzled the local farmers. They wandered the valley studying plants and marvelling at waterfalls, while locals looked on in bemusement at these strangers who “did nothing useful” except explore and take photographs. The visitors even distributed a humanitarian magazine and took pictures of some residents – likely the first photos ever taken in Geiranger.
Sensing opportunities, enterprising locals soon adapted to serve these early tourists. In 1869, a farmer named Martinius Merok established a small inn and general store at Maråk, a shoreline area, to accommodate visitors. This humble guesthouse (later Merok’s Hotel) also doubled as a barn – a reminder that tourism alone wasn’t yet profitable enough, so the owner kept cattle, sheep and pigs on the side. Throughout the 1870s and 1880s, the trickle of tourists slowly grew. They mainly came by steamship in summer, as overland travel remained extremely difficult.
Road Connection to Geiranger
The turning point came with a feat of road engineering: the Geiranger Road, which spans the mountains, was completed in 1889. For the first time, Geiranger was reachable by wheeled transport – a winding, hairpin-filled route connecting the village up through the high pass to Grotli (and onward to the inland town of Lom). By 1894, the road extended all the way south to connect with routes to Stryn, completing a link between Geirangerfjord and the rest of Norway’s road network.
The opening of the road sparked nothing short of an economic revolution in Geiranger. In the late 1880s, as the road neared completion, dozens of new tourist ships started calling at the fjord. In the summer of 1888, around 39 cruise steamers visited; a decade later, by 1898–1900, roughly 70 ships were arriving each year. In just ten years, Geiranger had transformed into an authentic tourist village.
Entrepreneurs built several hotels to accommodate the influx: Hotel Geiranger (first established as a lodging house in the early 1880s and later expanded), the grand Hotel Union (opened 1893 on a hill above the village), and Hotel Utsikten (1893) which offered a panoramic view from the cliffs. Even a mountain lodge at nearby Djupvatnet lake opened in 1892 to serve those travelling the high road. The combination of a carriage road and comfortable hotels meant Geiranger could now welcome visitors in style – a far cry from the days of a single barn-inn.
Famous Visitors to Geiranger
One particularly illustrious visitor gave Geiranger international fame. In July 1890, Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany steamed into Geirangerfjord with a fleet of three royal ships. The German Emperor went ashore, climbed to a vantage point overlooking the village, and was enchanted. This marked the first time a reigning monarch had ever visited Geiranger. The Kaiser’s enthusiasm for Norway’s fjords was well known, and after 1890, he returned to Geiranger nearly every summer until World War I. His patronage was superb advertisement, putting Geiranger on the map among Europe’s elite. Soon English lords, European royals, and wealthy globetrotters all wanted to see the “pearl of the Norwegian fjords” for themselves.
By the turn of the 20th century, the village’s character had undergone a fundamental change. Geiranger’s population around 1900 was just over 400 people, most of whom were still engaged in farming. However, many supplemented their income by working in hotels, guiding tourists, or operating transportation services.
Locals set up a horse-and-carriage transport service to carry guests up the zigzag road and to scenic spots. Women sold handicrafts and traditional costumes, while men might row visitors across the fjord to see waterfalls. The geography that once isolated Geiranger was now its most significant asset: visitors came precisely to experience the majestic mountains, thundering waterfalls and panoramic vistas that villagers once took for granted.
Early 20th Century Growth & World War II
The 20th century maintained the trajectory of tourism growth, albeit with some interruptions. In the early decades, cruise ships and steamers continued to ferry summer tourists, while the road over the mountain accommodated adventurous automobile travellers as cars became more common. Geirangerfjord emerged as one of Norway’s oldest international tourist destinations, celebrated alongside Nærøyfjord for its stunning beauty. However, the two World Wars caused lulls in travel. During World War I, foreign tourism came to a near standstill (the Kaiser’s last visit was in 1914)—local hotels coped by relying on domestic guests or closing during the war years. During World War II, when Norway was under German occupation from 1940 to 1945, Geiranger saw few visitors due to travel restrictions, and some hotel buildings were repurposed by the authorities or left vacant. The village, far from any battlefront, avoided physical damage during the wars, but the lack of tourism necessitated a temporary return to farming and fishing. Many of the vehicles used for taxis were discarded into the fjord by the Nazis.
After World War II, peace and prosperity in Europe brought ever-increasing crowds to Geiranger.
Post War Modernisation
The advent of mass car tourism led to the development of new infrastructure. In 1954, the “Eagle Road” (Ørnevegen) was completed, carving a series of sharp switchbacks up the fjord’s northern wall to connect Geiranger with Eidsdal and beyond. This new road link (named for the eagles that soar above its hairpin turns) meant travellers could drive into Geiranger from the north as well, creating a famous loop route. Even more dramatic, the mountain pass road to Geiranger was linked with the Trollstigen road (an equally hair-raising route northward) by the mid-1930s, establishing what is now an iconic national tourist circuit. These roads themselves became attractions for their thrilling views. Meanwhile, a ferry service between Geiranger and Hellesylt commenced, enabling tourists to sail the entire length of the Geirangerfjord as part of their journey.
By the late 20th century, Geiranger was firmly on the global tourist trail, with thousands of cruise passengers and independent travellers arriving each summer by ship, bus, and car.
UNESCO World Heritage Status
In recognition of its extraordinary natural and cultural value, the Geirangerfjord area was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005. This status honours both the unique blend of natural grandeur and human heritage, including the historic farms, ferry landings, and mountain trails, and helps ensure their preservation. The World Heritage listing emphasises that Geirangerfjord has a rich history “from the oldest Stone Age finds, through the Bronze and Viking Ages, the Middle Ages and into modern times”. In other words, the landscape itself is like a timeline of Norwegian history. With UNESCO protection, there is greater focus on sustainable tourism and safeguarding the fjord’s environment from overuse. Local culture is preserved through museums, such as the Norwegian Fjord Centre in Geiranger, which showcases the area’s geology, avalanches, and the history of the fjord community.
Life Today
Geography continues to pose challenges even in modern Geiranger. The very cliffs that create such postcard-perfect waterfalls also pose risks of landslides. Residents live with the knowledge that a mountainside called Åkerneset, farther out the fjord, has an unstable section that geologists monitor closely – a major collapse there could send a tidal wave up the fjord. Accordingly, early-warning sirens and evacuation drills are in place in case of a slide-triggered tsunami. This ever-present threat from nature is simply part of life in Geiranger, just as avalanches and rockfalls have always been. It seems living in this fjord has always required resilience and respect for the landscape’s power.
As tourism has boomed, Geiranger’s population dwindled compared to its heyday. Traditional farming gradually declined – many of the old cliff farms were abandoned as younger generations found less punishing livelihoods. (A few hardy souls held on; some remote farms like Skageflå remained active into the 20th century before finally being left to caretakers or converted into summer pastureland.) The village itself became oriented almost entirely around serving visitors. Tourism became the primary economic driver, generating jobs in hotels, restaurants, guiding services, and retail shops. Today, only around 200–250 people reside in Geiranger year-round, but in the summer, the population swells with seasonal workers and is inundated by guests – on peak days, over 5,000 tourists can crowd into the tiny village.
Norway's Coastal Ferry
Geiranger is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below.
History of Geiranger Resources
All photos (except the modern ones, which are mine) are sourced from DigitaltMuseum and are licensed-free.
For the historical overview, I consulted the tourism board websites, the UNESCO World Heritage website, National Geographic, WikiVoyage, and various travel guides.
