stavanger attractions

  • Stavanger

    Visiting Sverd i Fjell (Swords in Rock) in Stavanger

    Visiting Sverd i Fjell (Swords in Rock) in Stavanger

    One of the most popular images of Stavanger is this iconic three Vikings swords in a rock by a fjord. You’ll see it everywhere; postcards, magnets, brochures, and so on. It’s called Sverd i fjell in Norwegian, which translates to ‘Swords in the Rock’ in English. Moreover, the monument commemorates a famous battle that took place in Stavanger. It’s a must see! I got a chance to see sverd i fjell in September 2020. I’ve put together a practical guide for visiting this monument.

    In this article...

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Where is Sverd i Fjell?

    Sverd i fjell is on a bay at the end of the Hafrsfjord. The Hafrsfjord is 9km (5.6 miles) long and separates the Stavanger and Sola municipalities. The name comes from an old Norse word, with ‘hafr’ meaning ‘male goat’ and ‘fjord’ meaning, well, fjord. It’s thought that ‘harf’ is the name of a skerry at the entrance to the fjord.

    Moreover, it’s believed that people have lived along this fjord for thousands of years. One of the discoveries in the area is a petroglyph dating to the Bronze Age. Most importantly, the whole area is rich in ancient monuments.

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    The bay area is Møllebukta. The name refers to a mill (mølle) as this area is historically where a corn mill was located. Moreover, the park is from the 18th century, and the 100m (330ft) beach is a popular swimming spot in the summer months.

    The position and distance from Stavanger is outlined in the ‘how to get there’ section below.

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    What does the monument represent?

    Sverd i Fjell represents a famous battle in the Viking Age called the Battle of Hafrsfjord. The battle took place around the year 872. Stavanger is one of the most important Viking locations, only further highlighted by the fact that a famous battle took place here. You can read more about that on my ‘History of Stavanger’ page (click here).

    In this battle, King Harald Fairhair unified Norway under one kingdom. Before this, several petty kings ruled Norway. These chieftains (that went up against Harald) came from Hordaland, Rogaland, Agder and Telemark, all counties in South-Western Norway. Moreover, the chieftains had support from the Danes and the British Isles. After Harald Fairhair’s win, rather than submit and pay tribute to Harald, many nobles left with their kin and possessions. They settled in the Western Isles and the newly discovered Iceland. Here, these settlers took part in shaping the new Iceland.

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    Fun fact:

    The reason Harald Fairhair wished to unify Norway is because he was in love. He wanted to marry Gyda Eiriksdatter, who was a king’s daughter, but she did not accept. Gyda thought he wasn’t powerful enough. However, if he managed to unify Norway, she would marry him. Harald Fairhair agreed and vowed to not cut his hair until he unified Norway. By the end, he was looking very unkept with his long, knotted hair, but he succeeded in unifying Norway and getting the girl. When he finally cut his hair, he looked much cleaner, hence his name.

    This battle is described in the Norse Sagas. The book is the Heimskringla by Snorre Sturlason. You can read a poem about the battle by clicking here.

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    The sculpture

    The sculpture is three swords. Each one is 10m (33ft) tall and planted into the rock of a small hill. The largest sword represents the victorious King Harald Fairhair, while the two smaller swords represent the defeated petty kings. The monument is also to represent peace, since the swords are planted into solid rock and cannot be moved.

    KNM Harald Hårfagre

    Next to the monument, hidden in the trees, is a barracks. This is KNM Harald Hårfagre. It is a basic training establishment for the Royal Norwegian Navy. In Norway military service is compulsory for 12 months, and most are sent to this camp to do their basic training. This is where my husband went!

    Practical Information

    Where is the monument?

    Sverd if Fjell is located 5.3km (3.3 miles) from Stavanger Cathedral. It’s in a suburb, so there are private residences all around.

    Information boards

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    You will find an information board outside the monument outlining the importance of Hafrsfjord and the meaning behind the monument. The information is in Norwegian with an English summary at the bottom.

    How to get here

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    The best way to get there is by car. If you’re renting a car, it’s a 10-15 minute drive from the city centre. There is a carpark with free parking. Just note that in the summer months this monument is very popular with tourists, and there may be many tour buses there.

    If you are doing a tour with a cruise ship or group, and you have a bus, there is a chance they will stop here for photos. The hop on hop off bus does not stop at Sverd i Fjell (which is strange, in my opinion).

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    For example, Viking Cruises has a ‘Panoramic Stavanger’ shore excursion that stops there. Princess Cruises also does a drive through Stavanger and they feature Sverd i fjell.

    It is possible to walk there – it will take a little over an hour – but it’s on main roads and is not a scenic walk at all.

    The next best option is public transport. The best bus option is bus 16 from Byparken (stop: Stavanger hpl. 20) towards Madlasandnes. The ride is 9 mins (14 stops). You get off at Madlaleiren and have to walk 500m (0.3 miles) to get to the monument. The buses are operated by Kolumbus, and you can read info about tickets here (in English).

    Click here for a bus map.

    Important information to note

    There are public restrooms, but they are in the park and not close to the monument. When we visited in September 2020 in the morning (around 8:30am), they were closed.

    In the summer months there are food trucks selling icecream and snacks.

    No souvenir shop.

    The carpark is free, as is visiting the monument.

    All signs point to the monument are in Norwegian. Learn ‘Sverd i Fjell’ – that’s how you’ll find it!

    Sverd i Fjell / Swords in the Rock in Stavanger

    You have to walk on rock to get there. It’s uneven and can be slippery in west weather. There is no marked footpath to the monument.

    Final Thoughts

    I enjoyed visiting this monument. While it’s one of those ‘not as big in real life’ monuments, it was fun getting to photograph it. The beach and park area is also beautiful.

    Have you visited Sverd i Fjell? Let me know in the comments!

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Stavanger, Walking Guides

    A Walk Through Gamle Stavanger

    Gamle (Old) Stavanger is probably the most known part of Stavanger. It is certainly one of the most visited tourist attractions in the city, and rightly so. Gamle Stavanger is a preserved district of around 155 wooden houses from the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s incredibly charming, scenic, picturesque, and Norwegian.

    I’ve written a walking guide to Stavanger, where I provide a detailed overview of where to walk in Gamle Stavanger. If you are interested in that, click here.

    This article is more of a general guide to Gamle Stavanger. The goal here is to show you what the area is all about and why it’s such a great place to visit.

    Before we start, I should say there is very little information on each individual house and street. There are (very expensive) books on Gamle Stavanger in Norwegian, but as of writing there’s very little in English. I also find it interesting that this is referred to as ‘Old Stavanger’, when the town centre (see the self-guided walk) is much older.

    Stavanger Travel Guide

    History of Gamle Stavanger

    View over Gamle Stavanger in the early 20th century (Source)

    It’s not sure how old Gamle Stavanger is. Some houses have been here since the 1700s, but the area was mostly open pastures. Before 1820, there was one row of warehouses along the bay and a few scattered properties on the slope above it.

    As a result of rich herring fishing, shipping, and shipbuilding, there was a huge population growth between 1815-1880. The area where Gamle Stavanger is became the city’s first housing development. The first houses built here were tiny; during an economic boom in the 1860s and 1870s, many were demolished to make way for larger houses. Some original houses remain, but many only exist as parts of a newer construction.

    Source (Click Here)

    After World War II, there was interest in demolishing houses to build apartments. In 1951, Einar Heden (1916-2001) took the initiative to preserve the dilapidated Gamle Stavanger.  On 11 November 1957, the Gamle Stavanger Foundation was founded. Heden became the association’s first chairman. Over the next few years, more began to care about Gamle Stavanger. In 1965 the Council voted unanimously to preserve Gamle Stavanger and 79 buildings. 10 years later, the area was expanded to 154 houses – the current regulation.

    Source (Click Here)

    Today, it is recognised that the existence of Gamle Stavanger is thanks to Heden. Before his conservation work, Gamle Stavanger was one of the least desirable areas. It consisted of rundown wooden buildings owned by the lowest classes. Today Gamle Stavanger is one of the wealthiest areas to live.

    The Canning Industry

    The canning industry is important to Stavanger, and there is a Canning Museum located here. Note that the museum is closed for an extensive renovation and will be closed until spring 2021.

    While most of the factories have been torn down, some still exist. For example, close to the tourist information centre is this grand red building. This is where the Stavanger Preserving Co. was located.

    This is the first cannery to be built in Stavanger, established in 1873.

    The building is no longer used as a cannery; in the 1980s, the company merged with Norway Foods and moved headquarters. Today this building is a bank.

    The Oldest House in Gamle Stavanger

    Villa Blidensol is Stavanger’s oldest house, after the Cathedral and the Bishop’s Chapel.

    Blidensol is first mentioned on a map in 1726. It is next mentioned in a written source in 1737. The building itself is thought to be from 1777, though some believe it is older – it’s hard to know what’s original, what was moved here, etc. The villa is built in an Empire style that was probably added in the period 1805-1820. Much of the interior is unchanged.

    The first known owner is Laurits Andersen Smith (1680-1758). He bought several smaller plots and merged them into a large estate. The name isn’t very Norwegian; that is because he came from Scotland. Laurits is the son of Andrew Smith, who did the wood carvings inside Stavanger Cathedral. They owned the home until 1825. From then on, the large estate was continuously subdivided into smaller plots.

    When lawyer Christen Iben Minos bought the house in the mid-1980s, it was quite decayed. He and his wife extensively restored and modernised the house, though keeping it in an old style. Today the villa is privately owned and it’s a little tricky to see.

    The White Houses

    A true highlight of Gamle Stavanger is the white houses. These houses are very characteristically Norwegian, with their weatherboard and ceramic tile roof.

    For me it was a photographers dream, especially with the sun shining. Here are some photos of the houses.

    Characteristic ceramic tile roof. Ceramic is local to Stavanger

    Gamle Stavanger consists of around 173 buildings, though this has risen to 250.

    Why are the houses wooden?

    Wood has historically been the cheapest source of material and more easy to obtain than stone. Stone, on the other hand, is for important buildings like the Stavanger Cathedral. In history, white was the most expensive coat of paint as it showed wealth. The reason these houses are white is not because of this, but because in the 19th century neoclassical was the style, and neoclassical meant white houses.

    On some of the houses, you’ll see mirrors sticking out the side. This is very typical of houses close by the sea. In the old times, if you’re sitting inside and hear someone coming your way, you can use this two-way mirror to check who it is. If it’s someone you like, you can welcome them inside. If it’s someone you don’t like, pretend to not be home! The wives would use these mirrors when gossiping with friends; their husbands were often away at sea.

    In the background you can see the city centre.
    Who owns the houses?

    The houses are privately owned. Originally these were the poorest homes in the city, but now they have become some of the most desired homes. The price tag reflects this.

    Here are two examples of places for sale at the moment. The one at the top is a house with two bedrooms (soverom) on sale for 3.1 million NOK. The second one is an apartment with one bedroom on sale for 3.6 million NOK.

    Issues with Tourists

    In recent years Gamle Stavanger has become a popular destination with tourists. That’s (of course) fine, but in the last couple years there have been issues with tourists. Mostly the issue is that some tourists have been looking through mailboxes, peeking through windows, and even walking into people’s private gardens! Some believe that, because it’s a collection of old buildings, it must be an open air museum. Locals own these homes. You cannot start violating their privacy. I know my readers won’t do it, but keep in mind people do it.

    Part of the problem is the growing number of cruise ships, which dock right outside Gamle Stavanger. The pollution and overcrowding is becoming a problem for residents. Just look at these photos:

    You can see Gamle Stavanger to the left. Source

    Just Google ‘Gamle Stavanger cruise ship’ for many photos like this (or click here).

    In 2019, 234 cruise ships called at Stavanger bringing 496,000 passengers. The vast majority of these come between the tourist season – May to September. Some cruise ships carry up to 5,000 passengers. (Source)

    Don’t get me wrong; I don’t mind cruise ships. After all, I’m a local guide and rely on that income. Cruise ships can do a lot of good. If you’re coming to Stavanger on a cruise ship, be sure to be extra nice to the locals. If you’re going to be in Stavanger when there’s a cruise ship in, perhaps reconsider when you want to leave the hotel room!

    Einar Heden’s Plass

    This is a small square where you can sit and reflect. The name is from the man who saved Gamle Stavanger – city architect Einar Heden.

    You’ll see an old power post in the backyard of one of the houses. The square also offers lovely views of Stavanger town.

    Visiting Gamle Stavanger

    Gamle Stavanger is a free, public area in Stavanger city centre. There are plenty of shops, cafes and some museums. It’s perfect for an afternoon visit.

    Gamle Stavanger is located about a five minute walk from the city centre (see circled area above).

    Have you been to Gamle Stavanger? Share your experience in the comments.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
  • Museums, Stavanger

    All You Need to Know about the Oil Museum in Stavanger

    All You Need to Know about the Oil Museum in Stavanger

    On my visit to Stavanger in September 2020, we were stuck looking for places to visit. I am a huge Norwegian history geek, so I was hoping to see the Canning Museum and the Archaeological Museum, but both were closed due to the corona virus. To top things off, we were in Stavanger on my 30th birthday. In a bid to find something to do (and get relief from the cold weather), we went to the oil museum in Stavanger. I never thought I’d turn 30 in an oil museum, but here we are!

    Honestly, the oil museum in Stavanger is a fascinating look into Norway’s petroleum industry. My husband went on about how he felt like he was back in high school (they were taught a lot about the oil industry in Norwegian schools). I learned some things I never new about oil, so it felt worth it.

    In this article...

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The oil industry

    While the museum has a ton of information about the oil industry, I think it’s worth going in with a general understanding about Norway’s oil industry.

    The oil industry is a big topic and hard to condense. When I’m doing tours around Norway, I give a topic about the good, bad and ugly of the oil industry. I’m working on adjusting that into a blog post.

    In the meantime, you can read about the oil industry on the Norwegian government website (it’s in English). Click here.

    The oil museum in Stavanger

    The Oil Museum (Oljemuseet) shows how oil, particularly offshore operations, is Norway’s most important industry. The exhibitions present historical developments in the oil industry. It starts with the exploration in the North Sea and the construction of steel and concrete platforms. It goes right up to modern production ships and subsea systems. Then, the exhibitions look to the future of the oil industry.

    Moreover, the museum is stunning to look at. It’s probably unsurprising that it is designed by an architectural firm, and part of the museum looks like an oil platform when viewed from the outside. The building is a landmark in the Port of Stavanger.

    The Oil Museum opened on the 20th of May 1999 by King Harald V. Currently, it is the most visited museum in Stavanger.

    The museum is a stop on my self-guided walking tour of Stavanger:

    Exhibitions

    The exhibitions include technological advances and how oil revenue has affected Norwegian society. Climate change is a focal point, especially issues with greenhouse gas emissions and global warming. Original objects, models, films, and interactive exhibits convey the history of oil operations on the Norwegian continental shelf. Information boards explain what it’s like to work offshore and underwater.

    For kids, they can slide down a real rescue chute and play on a miniature oil platform. There are tons of interactive exhibits for them to try.

    The museum is spread out over two floors. You enter on the lower floor.

    Lower floor exhibitions

    When you first enter the museum, there’s an extensive timeline. It outlines the development of the oil industry in Norway, from the first exploration to the present day. Since we are in Stavanger, there’s a focus on how the town changed with the discovery of oil. It’s a fascinating timeline with plenty of documents, images and text. You could spend 20 minutes or one hour reading the timeline.

    Short film

    The staff will likely recommend that you watch the short film first. It’s a fictional film and not a documentary, so it’s going to be quite different from the types of museum films you expect. Starring famous Norwegian actor Kristoffer Joner, the film explores a man reflecting on his childhood in Stavanger during the oil boom. His father worked on the rigs, and Joner’s character is bitter towards the oil industry. After all, it took away time with his father. The story is a little out there, but the footage of Stavanger in the 1970s is very interesting. I especially liked how it showed the American influence on Stavanger, with all the bars and cars. 

    Future of the oil industry

    Lastly, on the lower floor, there’s an exhibition about the future of the Norwegian oil industry. Before you go into the exhibit, you’ll see a row of various drilling bits. They kind of remind me of the creatures from horror and sci fi movies!

    The exhibition explains how the oil is state-owned, with the profits being invested abroad. There’s a counter with the current value of the Norwegian oil fund and the current price of oil:

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    What’s great about this exhibition is that it has a balanced opinion. The exhibition shows the protests and newspaper articles in Norway that has had a negative opinion about the oil industry. At the same time, the exhibition shows where they plan to drill for oil in the future, namely in the Arctic. This is a very heated debate at the moment in Norway.

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Moreover, the exhibition also explains what exactly the oil and gas is used for. Norwegian gas supplies 25% of gas to Europe and the UK. Also, Norway doesn’t use its own oil! A downstairs exhibit explains how the steel pipelines are placed on the seabed, linking the Norwegian continental shelf to Norway, Germany, France, Belgium and the UK.

    The upper floor

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    You enter the oil platform recreation once upstairs. It’s a really cool place to walk around, and we had fun messing about in the control room section. All the equipment is authentic and interesting to look at. However, I know so little about the oil platforms that it all looked so foreign. The upstairs exhibitions explain how they search for oil and how the drills work in the ground. From the upstairs platform, you can go outside and slide down a net. We did not as the net looked like it may break one of our bones. There’s also lovely views of Stavanger from the outside!

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    An upstairs exhibition focuses on the impact of climate change around the world. It focuses on Norway’s role in combating climate change. Displays explain protests in Norway against oil, overpopulation, and the government’s decisions. It’s a mixed view, though it may lean towards painting Norway in a positive light. Other topics are changes in the free marked, international collaboration, and technological changes. You can read about the exhibition on their website.

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    The last upstairs exhibition is about the North Sea, focusing on how they work out there. There’s a film showing a British man connecting pipes underwater that is interesting to watch. I was fascinated by the fact they have to spend a good portion isolated as they readjust to the pressure above the sea. You can try on the helmets they wear underwater too.

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Stavanger Oil Museum

    Practical Information

    Languages

    The signboards are in English and Norwegian. They have brochures available in more languages like German, Russian and French.

    Restaurant

    Attached to the museum is the Bølgen and Moi Restaurant with lunch and dinner. It has a small but excellent menu plus an extensive drinks range. We had a burger split between the two of us (they even cut the burger in half!) and a local apple juice plus a coffee. It was really good and just what we needed.

    Read about the restaurant

    Visit their website

    Souvenir Shop

    The souvenir shop has a lot of science toys, including experiment kits, slinkies, goo, and so on. If you’ve been to a science museum and seen the kids’ section of the souvenir shop, it’s very similar. There are some t-shirts and caps with the museum logo, and a small collection of books (most are in Norwegian. There’s also some jewellery, if that’s your thing. We bought a magnet from the museum, as we do everywhere.

    Read about the shop.

    Guided Tours

    The museum does offer guided tours in Norwegian, English and German. However, these are not regularly scheduled and most be booked in advanced. They are generally for large tour groups and not couples or individual travellers. That’s a shame because they offer oil tasting at the restaurant, which would be cool to experience.

    Read more

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide