Riddarholmen Church: Stockholm’s Oldest Building
Stockholm is growing on me. It is, after all, probably the best-preserved of the Scandinavian capitals. It avoided bombardments and devastating fires, unlike Copenhagen, and it is significantly older than Oslo. Also, Sweden was neutral during World War II, protecting it from bombing or sabotage attacks. When I first visited Stockholm I found it too crowded, and while that is still true every visit, I find new appreciations for the city now. One of those is Riddarholmen Church, arguably my favourite historic building in the city.
Located on the island of Riddarholmen, which is just across a small bridge from Gamla Stan, this church covers almost 1,000 years of history from Stockholm’s founding in 1252 right through to the present day. Centuries old traditions survive to the present day and the conversion of the church into a historic site is fantastic. It is one of the best-presented historic churches I’ve been in, with interesting exhibitions, information boards everywhere, and easy to follow maps. Riddarholmen Church is also the oldest preserved building with the oldest brick walls above ground, as well as being Stockholm’s only preserved monastery church.
Here is an overview of the historic importance of Riddarholmen Church as well as some highlights as to what you can see there.
In this article...
Historic Context
The Greyfriars Monastery
The history of the church begins with the Greyfriars Monastery. Soon after entering the church, you will see a large information sign about them, complete with relics found during restorations as well as images of what the church likely looked like during the time of the Greyfriars.
Riddarholmen Church is part of the former medieval Greyfriars Monastery, making it one of the oldest buildings in Stockholm as the monastery was established here in the late 13th century. It is not known when the church was completed, but historians believe it was around the early 14th century. The church was much smaller, of course. The floorplan had two naves – common for monastic churches of the mendicant orders of Scandinavia and Northern Germany during the Middle Ages. There was also no tower.
Side note – the Greyfriars is a Scandinavian term for the Franciscans. The Franciscan priory was established in Italy in the early 13th century by Francis of Assisi and came to Sweden in the 1220s. The ‘Greyfriars’ term came because of their grey clothing.
When Riddarholmen Church was completed, it was made almost entirely out of brick. This was unusual in Sweden. It has been thought that the ‘lavishness’ of the church is because Magnus Ladulås wanted to be buried there. He was the Swedish King in the late 13th century. He was the son of Birger Jarl, who founded Stockholm in 1252, and wasn’t the heir – his older brother Valdemar was. After Birger’s death, the two brothers came into conflict and, with the help of the Danes, Magnus ousted his brother and became King. There is nothing particularly notable or famous about his reign; he likely gave funding to the church and is why he is buried there. Or is he? More on that later.
While the monks led a very simple life, they were also very cultured. The first book printed in Sweden was produced by the Greyfriars in 1483.
Not much remains of the monastery today; some of the walled-up openings towards the abbey garden can be seen in the form of niches with pointed arches in the southern wall. Medieval painting has also been found in the vaults.
The Reformation
Of course, the Reformation meant huge changes for the monastery. The monastery was closed and the church became Lutheran. Around this time, its role shifted and it became known as the Royal burial church of the Swedish monarchs and for the Seraphim Order. The church became associated with modern nobility in Sweden.
Riddarholmen Church was also expanded after the Reformation, with the royal tombs being added and the chancel being designed in the Dutch Renaissance style. The tower was added after the Reformation, too.
1835 Fire
In 1835, Riddarholmen Church had its largest and most impactful fire. The fire was started by a lightning strike on the 28th of July 1835 and lasted for three days. During this time, the tower spire collapsed as the entire upper part of the church burned. Thankfully, they were able to prevent the fire from entering the interior of the church.
Restoration & Current Appearance
The rebuilding of the church took three years. The most impactful part of the reconstruction was the cast iron spire, designed in the Neo-Gothic style and now an icon of the Stockholm skyline.
The last addition to the church was in 1860, when the Bernadotte tomb choir was built.
During that time, Riddarholmen Church became a three-nave church built in red brick. The church was originally built in the Gothic style, but the tombs are in various styles, including Rococo and Renaissance. It bears some similarities to Roskilde Cathedral in Denmark in that regard.
What to see Inside the Church
What's With all the Coats of Arms?
One of the most unique parts of the church are all the coats of arms. It is probably the first thing you’ll recognise when you visit the church. Honestly, when I first visited the church I thought they were the coats of arms of the royal family, but I was very wrong.
The coats of arms are for the knights of the Royal Order of the Seraphim. This is a Swedish royal order of chivalry created by King Frederick I on the 23rd of February 1743. Originally, the knights were supposed to supervise with the hospitals and mental asylums in Sweden, in particular the Seraphim hospital (the major hospital in Stockholm until it closed in 1980). This requirement eventually died out and today it is more a symbolic order.
On the death of one of the knights, their coat of arms is put up and the two dates on the plaque indicate when they received the Order and on the day of their death. When they die, the bells of Riddarholmen Church ring the special Serephim chimes.
The Royal Church & Tombs
Riddarholmen Church is today the final resting place of most Swedish monarchs. Every monarch from Gustavus Adolphus (died 1632) to Gustaf V (died 195) are entombed here. The earlier monarchs Magnus (died 129) and Charles VIII are also buried here. There is only one exception: Queen Christina is buried within St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The Vasa dynasty were also not buried here. Queen Christina is fascinating; she refused to become Lutheran so gave up her title! The Vasa family was also not buried here.
In total, 15 monarchs are buried at the church and are divided into three tombs: The Gustavian, the Karolinska, and the Bernadotte. All three are clearly marked with information boards and numbered maps showing who is buried where.
The Gustavian burial chancel was built for King Gustav II Adolf (1594-1632). Gustav designed it himself before his death, but it was constructed after his death.
The Medieval Tombs
In the chancel (from the 13th century) are two sarcophagus-like tomb monuments for Magnus Ladulås as well as King Karl Knuttson, who died in 1470. The tombstones were made in the 1570s and are designed as effigies for the two kings. They were originally painted in bright colours but only traces of that remain today.
The northern burial was thought to be Magnus, but in 2011 an analysis of the skeletons showed that it was far too young to be him. So, the mystery of Magnus’ grave remains.
Side note – the gilding of the ribs in the chancel has no counterpart in Sweden and was probably paid for by a King.
Royal Tombs
There are three chapels where the royal family are buried. The first, and oldest one, is the Gustavian chapel. The Gustavian Chapel was built for King Gustav II Adolf (1594-1632). He designed it himself before his death, but construction only took place after he died. His sarcophagus is made of dark marble from Italy. There are also another 20 royals buried here. Those who died in the 17th century are in pewter coffins, which the others are mostly in oak coffins.
The Karolinska chapel is the distinctive grey sandstone building. The sandstone comes from Gotland. In the black marble sarcophagus is Charles XII (1682-1718). Queen Ulrika Eleonora (1688-1741) and her husband King Fredrik I (1676-1751) rest in green charcoal marble sarcophagi. In the crypt are several kings with their respective consorts.
The Bernadotte chapel is the last addition to the church. Here you can see King Karl XIV Johan’s sarcophagus. It is made of red garberg granite. Queen Desideria’s (1777-1860) sarcophagus is made of green charcoal marble and is in front of Karl Johan. In 2021 the walls were resealed, and during excavations archaeologists found 50 skeletons and a bridal crown from the 14th – 16th centuries.
Non-Royal Chapels
There are a large number of consorts, princes and princesses buried in the church.
Riddarholmen Church contains five non-royal chapels, which were erected during the 17th century by various noble families. I won’t go through all of them, just some of the more interesting ones. I’ve always found the relationship between the Swedish monarchy and the Swedish noble families very interesting. Compared to the other Scandinavian countries (Denmark), the Swedish noble families have always had much more influence on the governing of the country, and I think this is well represented by the fact they are buried alongside the Swedish royals with barely any separation between graves.
The Torstenson burial chapel was built in 1651 for field lord Lennart Torstenson. He was an important part of the Swedish military and became governor of Vastergotland. He is considered to be one of the most successful generals of his time, as well as one of Sweden’s greatest of all time.
The Lewenhaupt chapel was built in 1654 for Gustaf Adolf Lewenhaupt and Carl Mauritz Lewenhaupt. They are beautiful wrought iron grilles. Both men were Swedish counts and field marshals and were also brothers. Many of their descendants are buried here too.
Other Graves & Tombstones
There are some other unique tombs in the church. In the middle of the choir is the Färlastenen from the 14th century. It was intended for a member of the medieval Farla family. According to legend, the stone belongs to the knight Karl Nilsson. The tombstone was found during a restoration in the early 20th century and there’s nothing that proves that Karl was a knight or belonged to the Farla family.
North of the grave that was thought to be Magnus Ladulås are the remains of marshal Torgils Knutsson. After his execution in 1306, he was buried at the execution site but his body was later moved to Riddarholmen. His tomb was destroyed in the 17th century during the construction of the Karolinska tomb and it was lost for more than two centuries. It was found in the 1920s during a restoration in three parts. Torgils was a knight, Swedish councillor and marshal.
Lastly, you will see the grave of Christ inside the church. This is one of the churches oldest objects: a wooden sculpture of Christ dating from around 1400. During the Middle Ages, it was used in the Passion Play at easter. This play told stories about the Bible; for the sculpture, it was wrapped up, laid in a chest, and the lid was closed. Two guards stood beside it, just like in the Bible, and in the morning, when the congregation came to church, the sculpture was removed. So, when the grave was opened, it was empty.
The Passion Play was forbidden after the Reformation and most of those sculptures disappeared in Sweden. This one was moved to the Royal Armoury and over time lost its feet, arms, and half of its head. It also faded and became grimy. It was eventually left in the church and is believed to have been damaged by the 1835 fire. Today, only four remain and the one at Riddarholmen is the oldest.
Visiting Riddarholmen Today
Today the church is only used for burial and commemorative purposes.
The church is open as an attraction during summer. You can view the opening hours by clicking here.
It is possible to buy a ticket when visiting the Swedish Royal Palace; they are sold as a combo ticket. It is possible to pre-order tickets online.
Be sure to check the annual programme of concerts so you can attend one.
All of the chapels have information signs out the front in Swedish and English, making it easy to follow along and get a small insight into the importance of each person. For the royal burial vaults, there are numbered maps indicating who is buried where.
The ground is uneven because of all the tombstones; these were placed inside the church by those who could afford to pay for the space.
Thanks for Reading!
I hope you found this information about Riddarholmen Church useful, as well as the fascinating history behind the church!
Have you visited the church or have any questions? Let me know in the comments.
