Everything You Need to Know About Nidaros Cathedral
Nidaros Cathedral (“Nidarosdomen” in Norwegian) is one of Norway’s most iconic and historically significant landmarks. It serves as a magnificent example of Gothic and Romanesque architecture and is important in Norwegian culture, religion and history.
It’s practically impossible to visit Trondheim without paying a visit to Nidaros Cathedral. But what do you actually see there? Well, I have been here so many times and have found something new about the cathedral every time. So, in this guide, I’ve put together an overview of the cathedral plus what you can see if you go inside.
A more detailed overview will be available in my Hurtigruten book, coming in May 2025.
In this article...
Norway's Coastal Ferry
Trondheim is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below.
Why is Nidaros Cathedral So Important?
In short, Nidaros Cathedral is so important as it is the burial church of Norway’s patron Saint Olav. The cathedral is also where the royal family are coronated.
Nidaros Cathedral is a cathedral in a European context, though in size it cannot compare to the largest and most magnificent cathedrals in Europe. Of the medieval bishoprics in the Norwegian ecclesiastical province, only Stavanger Cathedral and the Magnus Cathedral on the Orkney Islands have survived. The cathedral in Bergen has almost completely disappeared, and the cathedrals in Oslo and Hamar are in ruins. Nidaros Cathedral is also the only church in Norway that has a fully developed Gothic basilica form.
Nidaros Cathedral is Europe’s northernmost medieval cathedral.
Historic Overview of Nidaros Cathedral
Christianity & St. Olav
Christianity came to Norway in the 9th and 10th centuries, arriving from the south (via Denmark) and from the British Isles. The influence from the British Isles is particularly important, and the first Norwegian kings were baptised in England.
Even though Norway was influenced by Christianity for a few centuries throughout the Viking period, it wasn’t until Olav Haraldsson that Christianity became permanent. Also, Olav Haraldsson became St Olav – whose casket was placed at Nidaros Cathedral.
Olav Haraldsson was born in 995 and at the age of 12 set off to England on a Viking raid. During his time in England, he discovered Christianity and was baptised in 1014. He then returned to Norway with a mission: convert the Norwegians. He crowned himself King and then travelled around the country forcing Christianity on the pagans, or he threatened them with death. Eventually his strict reign created enemies, and he was forced to flee Norway in 1028. He came back a year later in an attempt to retake the throne, but at Stiklestad (a region north of Trondheim), his opponents lay in waiting with a huge army. After an intense battle, on the 29th of July 1030, Olav was killed.
His body was transferred to Trondheim and buried in a sandbank. It is believed to have been roughly where Nidaros Cathedral’s high altar is today.
Rumours quickly spread that miracles had occurred by the kings body, and that Olav was holy. Around one year after his burial, the coffin was removed and opened. The kings body appeared unchanged as if he had just died, and his hair and nails had grown.
Olav was proclaimed a saint and his coffin was placed on the high altar at St. Clements Church. A wooden chapel was built on the place where he had been buried, and a spring arose from there that had healing properties. Countless miracles were happening and the casked of St. Olav became an important pilgrimage site.
Founding & Construction of Nidaros Cathedral
As the casket of St. Olav continued to develop as an important pilgrimage site, it was decided to build a better church. Around 1070, King Olav Kyrre had a larger Christian church built. It was made of stone and completed around 1090. Olav’s coffin with the body inside stood on the high altar.
However, it wasn’t enough and by 1152 there were plans to expand the church into a large cathedral. The work proceeded quickly, and the southern transept was consecrated by Archbishop Øystein Erlendsson in 1161. The transept still has its Romanesque features today.
After a brief period of exile, Archbishop Øystein returned from England in 1183 and had the building style of Nidaros Cathedral changed to Gothic. The cathedral was completed around 1300 and this is when it got the layout we see today. The transept, Chapter House, and large parts of the octagon are the work of Archbishop Øystein.
Church-spiration?
There are many churches that served as a role model for Nidaros Cathedral. Strong influence can be seen from Lincoln Cathedral (click here for a model of Lincoln Cathedral – notice the similarity?) and the choir of Canterbury Cathedral (click here for a picture). However, there’s also inspiration from French churches, such as Notre Dame in Paris.
Worshipping St. Olav & Pilgrimage
The church and St. Olav’s grave became an important pilgrimage destination for the whole of Europe. It was Olav’s status as a saint that made pilgrims flock to Nidaros Cathedral.
In the Middle Ages, the cathedral was the centre of the Catholic religion in Norway. The Archbishops Court, which was the Archbishops residence, was built immediately south of the cathedral.
The Fires & Restoration Work
Soon after the cathedral was completed, it burned in the first major fire in 1328. The fire heavily damaged the cathedral, with most of the columns and crockets having to be replaced. A lot of the interior and exterior woodwork had been destroyed, along with the bells, stone arches, stone columns, and many valuable items.
The church was restored after the fire, and today the only visible remains of the reconstruction are the chancel arch walls and part of the arcades in the octagons central space. The style shows that English architecture was still a major influence.
Restoration work was completed in 1349, the same year the Black Death to Norway. All the priests along with Archbishop Arne Vade died, as well as a large part of Trondheim’s population. For the next 80 years, little is known of what was done to the cathedral.
In 1432, the tower was struck by lightning and all interior and exterior woodwork caught fire and was destroyed. None of the work from this restoration is visible today.
Throughout the 15th century there was political instability, so little was done to the cathedral. In 1510, Erik Walkendorf was appointed as the new archbishop, and he set out restoring the cathedral. He restored the octagon and also ensured the Olav Shrine was made grander.
However, these efforts were short lived. In 1531, a fire broke out in Trondheim and the cathedral (with the city) burned to the ground. The damage was extensive and a restoration work quickly began. In the choir, the middle aisle walls were demolished and rebuilt with massive plain walls. However, work had to stop as the Reformation had begun.
The Reformation & Abandoning the Cathedral
In 1536, the Danish King Christian III won a battle and adopted Martin Luther’s teachings. Catholicism in Denmark and Norway was abolished, and bishops were arrested. The last Catholic Archbishop in Trondheim, Olav Engelbrektsson, fled the country on the 1st of April 1537. The cathedral’s treasures and shrine were plundered by the king’s soldiers and the metal was melted down into coins. The Olav Shrine was removed, the pilgrims were no more, and the cathedral looked like an empty shell.
In 1564, the cathedral was plundered by Swedish soldiers, who stripped it of its remaining valuables.
After the Reformation, the cathedral became a parish church for Trondheim and was the main centre of the Lutheran religion.
At the beginning of the 17th century, the cathedral was in poor condition. It was partly restored in a Baroque style, which became popular in Trondheim. From 1625, private individuals were allowed to purchase burial sites within the cathedral, and the city’s wealthiest families saw it as a way to have their status acknowledged. Crypts were built beneath the floors, and over the next 200 years, hundreds of coffins were placed around Nidaros Cathedral.
Later Fires
During the town fire of 1708, the cathedral burned (except for the stone walls). The church was struck by lightning in 1719 and sat in ruins with decaying walls and fears that the cathedral may collapse. The walls were patched up and whitewashed to conceal their decay. The marble columns had disappeared and were replaced by white-painted wooden columns.
It has been said that the cathedral’s and country’s history reflect each other: when the country had its period of greatness, the cathedral is at is most magnificent. When the country was in decline and decay, so was the cathedral.
Restoration
In 1814 Norway became a separate state, though in union with Sweden. Interest in the country’s old, historic monuments began. This was particularly the case with Nidaros Cathedral, which had been included in Norway’s Constitution in 1814 as the coronation church for the king.
In 1833, a stone fell from the vault above the altar. This led to the first examination of the cathedral by an architect. In the following years, several initiatives were taken regarding the restoration of the cathedral. It was decided that the cathedral should go back to its medieval appearance.
A major restoration of the cathedral began in 1869, led by architect H.E. Schirmer. However, there was a lot of criticism towards him as he was taking too many creative liberties, so he was replaced with Christian Christie in 1872.
Almost 90 men worked on the restoration work including 50 stonemasons. The Western Front, which was basically in ruins, was completed in 1965. It was not until 2001 that restoration work was officially finished, though the cathedral is under constant maintenance to replace bad stone and strengthen weak points.
Visiting the Cathedral
It costs money to go inside the cathedral, which can be bought from the visitor centre. Inside, you are allowed to take photos (but no flash).
There are no information signs around the cathedral, so I recommend picking up a guide book at the visitor centre. My guide below is a summary of what you can see.
The Western Front
Before we even enter, let’s discuss the Western Front. It’s believed to have been inspired by English cathedrals. After the fire of 1531, the Western Front was left in ruins and most of what you see today is from the 19th century restoration.
Click here to see a photo of what the Western Front looked like when restoration started.
The Western Front has 76 sculptures and only five were preserved at the time of restoration (they are now in the Archbishops Residence Museum). The way it’s designed is that it is a tree, in which the central trunk (or axis) is Christ, with representations of his story. The rows of statues spread out like a tree. In the lowest row are the apostles and champions of Christianity, including those in Norway. In the second row, there are scenes from the Old and New Testaments with virtues. At the end of the row, there are saints from the archdiocese of Nidaros, including St. Olav & Archbishop Øystein. The third and uppermost row contains 16 large, seated statues. There are Christs ancestors in the form of Old Testament Kings of Israel. Furthest out sit five prophets and patriarchs.
Many of the sculptures are portraits of famous people in the sculptors time. For example, St Klemens is a portrait of the poet Olav Aukrust. Bishop Sigurd has three severed heads on a platter, and they feature the three architects of Nidaros Cathedral’s restoration. The bronze sculpture at the very top, by Kristofer Leirdal, bear’s Bob Dylan’s facial features.
There is a Wiki dedicated to what all the sculptures are, so I won’t go into it here. You can click here to see the overview of all the sculptures.
The Nave
You enter the cathedral into the nave. The nave is one of the ‘newer’ parts of the cathedral, as construction here begun in 1248 under Archbishop Sigurd Eindridesson. The style is in High Gothic and has a clear English influence. For example, the angel reliefs on the archways may refer to the ‘angel choir’ in Lincoln Cathedral (click here for a photo) and Westminster Abbey. Most of the reliefs have been damaged or destroyed. The best preserved one, which depicts the archangel Michael in battle with the devil, is on display at the Archbishops Residence Museum.
After the fire of 1531, the nave was left a roofless ruin and the interior began to collapse. During the 18th century, the vaults in the nave collapsed. When restoration began, most of the nave had gone. The new reliefs in the nave were made by Gustav Vigeland (yes, that Gustav Vigeland) and Wilhelm Rasmussen between 1900 and 1910.
North Transept
The transept in the northern side (as you’re walking down towards the octagon, it’s on your left) is known as the lecture hall and was completed around 1130-1150. It has the name because the Cathedral School was located here at one period, perhaps in the Middle Ages.
The northern portal is in the Anglo Norman style, the version of Romanesque architecture that was developed in Normandy and England in the 11th century. The portal has zigzag borders, folding capitals, and lion masks. It’s one of the best places in the cathedral to see the Romanesque architecture.
Here you’ll find a memorial for the women who lost their lives during World War II. There’s also a memorial for all the Norwegian kings that were likely buried at Nidaros Cathedral.
South Transept
The chapel on the southern side is the Johanneskapellet (John the Baptist Chapel). An inscription shows that it was consecrated by Archbishop Øystein in 1161 – this is the only inscription found in the cathedral with a year that can be used for dating.
The altar is made in Italian marble by the sculptor Harald Wårvik in 1985. The paintings on the two wall cabinets were made in 2006 and take themes from the story of John the Baptist. On the floor is a memorial plate for Thomas Angell and his family (Angell was a very wealthy man from Trondheim who left his fortune to the city after his death).
On the southern side is a Sami altar. The altar was designed by Folke Fjallstrom and is made of oiled birch and adorned with Sami ornamentation.
You can also see a standard here – a royal flag with the Norwegian coat of arms. This flag flew on the HMS Norfolk, the British ship that carried King Haakon VII home to Norway from England on the 7th of June 1945 after Norway had been liberated.
There is also a British flag hanging here – this flag flew on the ship HMS Mackay when it arrived in Trondheim on the 16th of May 1945 to assist in the liberation; it was the first allied ship to assist in the liberation of Norway.
The Choir
You are now entering the older part of the cathedral. The choir was built in two periods – the first from 1140 until 1180 and the second around the year 1200. The choir is in the Gothic style and shows a lot of similarity to Lincoln Cathedral (click here for a photo of Lincoln Cathedral’s nave).
The side aisles were used for processions and for those who wanted to visit the octagon and the Olav Shrine so the clergy wouldn’t be disturbed.
After the fire in 1531, the walls either collapsed or were in such a bad state that they had to be demolished. New, thicker middle aisle walls were built. These walls were demolished in the 1880s, revealing large parts of the original 13th century middle aisle walls that were used as filling in the walls and thus survived. Parts of the original stones were used in the restoration of the middle aisle.
Here you can see the soapstone font, which is a gift from 1905. It is a reconstruction of the remains of a font or fountain that were uncovered during the renovation. The font was made by Gustav Vigeland.
The Chapter House
The Chapter House is a freestanding chapel on the northern side of the choir. It was completed around the 1160s and was probably used to house relics and valuable items.
The style here is different to the transept. There are rich images here, such as water-lily leaves. This is commonly found in the monasteries of Cistercian monks. The Chapter House has no sculptures, which is also typical of Cistercian monasteries. Here you’ll find both Romanesque and Gothic arches – the first examples in Norway of such a style. The details suggest inspiration from York Cathedral, or the stonemasons came from there.
The only medieval furniture that has survived can be found here. It is a small chest where the canons chair robes were kept. On one side has been painted “for my age, I am honoured. Anno 1304”.
The Octagon
This is the oldest and most important part of the cathedral. It’s believed the octagon was the idea of Archbishop Øystein. At Canterbury Cathedral, a martyrdom for Thomas Becket was under construction (click here for more information), and it may have given inspiration to the Nidaros Cathedral octagon. It may have also been inspired by the structure around Jesus’ tomb in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem.
The columns and crockets around the octagon are unique and can only be found in two places in Europe – at Nidaros Cathedral and at Lincoln Cathedral (click here). On the octagon’s exterior are delicate flying buttresses which extend from the outer wall to the wall of the central space, in order to take the weight of the vaulting. This is an important element in Gothic architecture and the first such example to be found in Scandinavia.
The walls here are richly decorated with stonemasonry, more than any other building in Norway. They combine elements of Romanesque architecture with newer elements.
Inside the octagon is a blind arcade, i.e. a decorative archway with pointed arches and lace decoration. The purpose of the design is to create a passage for the pilgrims who would come to see Olav’s casket.
On the walls of the octagon you’ll find carvings and signatures made by both the stone masons and pilgrims waiting in line.
Here you find the Olavsantensalet, which was created in Norway in the early 14th century.
The High Altar in the octagon was made in 1883. The shape is supposed to be reminiscent of the Olav Shrine from the Middle Ages.
This is also where the healing spring is supposed to have come from. You’ll find it tucked away in a corner, with people leaving coins here.
The Glass Windows
It’s worth also adding the glass windows, as they are quite distinctive.
There were no windows remaining when the restoration work began in the 19th century. They are made by Gabriel Kielland and date back to the early 20th century. The windows are inspired by French cathedrals, especially Chartres Cathedral. You’ll notice they are quite dark; this is because Kielland travelled through France and assumed the windows in France were purposely dark. However, the French had not cleaned the windows! That’s why the windows in the cathedral are so dark.
It’s not known if the original Nidaros Cathedral had a rose window, and there was an intense debate during restoration if this cathedral should get one.
The Organs
Lastly, Nidaros Cathedral has two pipe organs. The oldest (in the north transept) was built by German organ builder Johann Joachim Wagner in 1738-1739. For the 900th anniversary of the Battle of Stiklestad in 1930, a new large organ was ordered from Steinmeyer.
Practical Information
Hopefully by now I’ve convinced you that Nidaros Cathedral is worth visiting! Here’s all the practical information you need to know.
Local Name
Nidarosdomen
Admission & Prices
Tickets into the cathedral cost 120 NOK, though they do offer discounts for students and senior citizens. It’s also possible to buy a combination ticket so you can also visit the Archbishops Residence.
See up-to-date prices here: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/#ticket
Opening Hours
The cathedral is typically open from 9am until 2pm. Keep in mind church service and special events.
I highly recommend looking at their website for the most up-to-date information: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/#ticket
Facilities
In the visitor centre you’ll find a cafe, gift shop and restrooms. The gift shop is excellent and has a wide selection of both cathedral-themed and Trondheim-themed souvenirs.
Guided Tours
Public guided tours are available in the summer months, or you can book a private tour year-round.
Learn more about guided tours here: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/en/omvisninger
Church Events
If you want to attend a concert or service, I recommend browsing their calendar. Unfortunately, the calendar only seems to be available in Norwegian. Still, it’s possible to make out what is happening: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/kalender?items=20
Coastal Ferry
I highly recommend booking the excursions on board the ferry that include a guided tour inside the cathedral. If you are coming independently, you need to be sure you can walk to the cathedral within 45 minutes in order to five yourself enough time to enter and look around.
Final Thoughts on Nidaros Cathedral
Nidaros Cathedral is a must-see if you are in Trondheim, or even if you are visiting Norway in general. Despite a troubled history, there’s no doubt Nidaros Cathedral has survived as one of the most impressive buildings in Norway, and not something you expect to see this far north. I love the detailed history of the cathedral, the significance of each individual stone, and how the cathedral reflects Norway’s past.
I hope you enjoyed this guide to Nidaros Cathedral!
Be sure to check out my Trondheim travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the beautiful historic city.
