Turku

  • Museums, Turku

    The Aboa Vetus Museum – Finland’s Only Archaeological Museum

    The Aboa Vetus Museum - Finland's Only Archaeological Museum

    I love a good ruins museum. I go to practically every one I can – including the Christiansborg ruins in Copenhagen and the Medieval Museum in Stockholm. When I ventured out to Turku for the day, visiting the Aboa Vetus Museum was on my to do list.

    The museum itself isn’t so large, but it does provide a fascinating insight into what life was like in Finland in old times. This is especially interesting as there aren’t that many historic sites like this in Finland; the country was agricultural and largely a peasant society for hundreds of years. So, to see ruins like this in Turku is a real treat.

    What makes this museum even more interesting is that it is the only medieval & archaeological museum in Finland. 

    Here’s my guide to the museum and what you can see here.

    Aboa Vetus Museum in Turku

    Turku Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Turku, including practical information and things to do. 

    About the Aboa Vetus Museum

    The museum opened in 1995 as two independent museums. Originally the plan was to only build Ars Nova, the contemporary art museum. However, during the construction several artefacts and structures dating back to the Middle Ages were discovered. This led to a major archaeological excavation that was commissioned and eventually transformed into the museum Aboa Vetus.

    In 2004, the two museums were combined. Today they are among the most popular tourist venues in the entire region of Southwest Finland.

    Aboa Vetus is the only archaeological museum in Finland and is known for its archaeological activities. After the initial excavations in the 1990s, the museum has continued archaeological research since 2005. Public engagement and community archaeology have a pivotal role in the museum. Research is done by both archaeologists and engaged volunteers.

    The name "Aboa Vetus"

    The names of the museum can seem a little strange, and I promise it’s not the Finnish name for the centre. Rather, the names come from the Latin words “Aboa Vetus”, meaning the “Old City of Turku”, and “Ars Nova”, referring to modern art.

     

    About the Building

    The building was built in 1928 and was a palace for a prominent family constructed by a tobacco manufacturer called Hans von Rettig. The palace now houses the museum.

    Entering the building itself is impressive – you see the ruins as soon as you go in!

    How These Buildings Became Ruins

    It’s worth mentioning that Turku used to be the second largest in the realm of Sweden and the largest city in Finland. Turku emerged as a centre of trade, religion and administration.

    The medieval city of Turku was largely built by the German traders who came here, and it was governed by both the Germans and the Crown and its officers. At its peak, Turku was a medium-sized town in the Baltic region, the second-largest town in the Swedish realm, and the religious, economic, military and administrative centre of Finland.

    The population was up to 3,000 people. There were German burgher leaders, Swedish-speaking burghers, and the nobility living here, along with the educated people, who were typically Swedish-speaking. Artisans consisted of Finnish or Swedish-speaking craftsmen, master builders and shippers. The Finnish-speaking servant class also incorporated craftsmen, fishermen, shepherds, builders, brick molders, carpenters, maids, comb makers, sailors, sauna attendants and the executioner.

    After the Great Fire of Turku in 1827, most of the city had to rebuilt. During the rebuilding process, the ruins of the medieval city were buried underground.

    What You See in the Museum

    In the museum you learn about medieval history and archaeology in Turku. Old Turku was divided into four districts. Aboa Vetus is in one of the quarters. This quarter is the Convent Quarter – it was where the wealthy merchants and craftsmen who built grand houses of stones and bricks.  Items found during the excavations, such as pieces of ceramics belonging to tiled stoves, splinters of expensive glass and gold rings, show signs of luxury.

     

    The museum exhibits archaeological finds that tell the story of Turku and its development. The exhibition includes the ruins of the old medieval church, cemetery, streets and city walls of Turku. One of the examples is the old cellar, which was built in the 15th century as a house extension. After the Great Fire of Turku, the building became part of a bathhouse, with the building housing the water tanks. The buildings are recreated beautifully – for example, on the ruins of the medieval church are light projections showing where the arches would’ve been.

    The displays are well-written and provide useful information about each building. Besides the ruins, there are display objects showcasing various objects they have been found. For example, there is a display with keys from the 13th century. Underneath is a description of how windows were constructed during that period. Some of the displays are written from the perspective of people who would’ve lived here. 

    Particularly fascinating is the section of goods indicating the importance of trade from other countries. For example, stoneware jugs from Rhine in Germany and glass from the present-day Czech Republic and Venice were found here. After smoking tobacco arrived in Turku in the early 17th century, townsmen smoked claypipes made in the Netherlands. In the 18th century, fine porcelain came all the way from China. However, the most important imported product was salt. Other food products included grain, dried fish, wine, spices, sugar and coffee. Products exported from Turku included hides, butter, lard, seal oil, wooden dishes and timber.

    There is also a special exhibition about the Hanseatic merchants who were coming to Turku, and a large part of Turku’s plan is thanks to them.

    There are also interactive elements such as excavations where visitors can explore the city for themselves.

    Practical Information

    Local name

    Aboa Vetus

    Getting Here

    The museum is located in the city centre of Turku, so it’s very easy to get there on foot. 

    Admission & Prices

    You can view up-to-date prices by visiting their website: https://avan.fi/en/opening-hours-and-tickets

    Opening Hours

    The museum is open all year round and is typically closed on Mondays.

    You can view up-to-date opening hours on their website:

    https://avan.fi/en/opening-hours-and-tickets

    Facilities

    There is a café and museum shop where you can buy souvenirs and gifts. The café is excellent and is open daily from 11am – 6pm and serves a great lunch buffet.

    Guided Tours

    The museum offers guided tours in several languages, and you can buy a ticket in advance online or on the spot.

    There are also QR codes on the buildings that link to more detailed information, so you can also take your own self-guided tour. 

    Enjoy your visit to the Aboa Vetus Museum!

    Let me know in the comments if you have any questions, or contact me at emma@thehiddennorth.com if you need help planning a trip to Finland!

    Turku Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Turku, including practical information and things to do. 

  • Finland, Museums, Turku

    Turku Castle: Finland’s Most Important Historic Site

    Turku Castle: Finland’s Most Important Historic Site

    Turku, Finland’s historic capital, is located on the west coast towards Sweden. Located on an island out into the bay is Turku Castle, a medieval castle that was founded in the 13th century as a bastion and administrative centre for Finland during the union with Sweden. It’s easy to visit Turku Castle from Helsinki for the day, or make it part of your visit to Turku.

    I visited Turku Castle on a cold winter day in February 2022 and found it fascinating. Helsinki is such a modern city (by comparison), so I didn’t think there were many of these historic places to be seen in Finland. Turku certainly proved me wrong, and this Castle is an excellent example of Nordic medieval castles.

    Here’s my guide to Turku Castle, including its historic importance and the exhibitions inside.

    Turku Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide

    In this article...

    History of Turku Castle

    Transformation to Living Quarters

    Eventually Turku Castle’s position shifted as various Duke’s were given control over the Castle. It was decided to expand the castle into more of a living quarters. The first major renovation took place in the 14th century. A kitchen and bakery were also added to the Castle. By the end of the century, Turku Castle was one of the largest and most important castles in the Nordic countries.

    In the 15th century one of the most remembered residents came and left his touch on the Cathedral. During the reign of Sten Sture the Elder, the castle underwent major changed during the most extensive construction works of the Middle Ages in Finland. Most importantly, the Catholic Church, known today as Sture Church, was built in the Castle. The Great Castle Hall was also expanded to two naves.

    The Vasas & the Renaissance Palace

    The next important residents were the Vasa. When Gustav Vasa became King of Sweden in the 16th century, he had Turku Castle expanded to include the bailey. He had visited the Castle and found it outdated and unpleasant. The Castle was also given a more Renaissance feel following German, Spanish and Polish examples. The Renaissance part of the Castle is known for being unique in Finnish conditions and was the only example of Renaissance-style court life in Finland. Since then, the Castle has never been added or extended, just repaired.

    Gustav Vasa’s younger son, Johan, moved into the Castle to serve as Duke of Finland. He had parties in the Castle as well as tournaments. His wife, Catherine, brought jewels, gold, velvet, curtains, tapestries, nightwear, and forks to the Castle, all of which had not really been seen in Finland before. Around 600 people worked at the Castle under Johan.

    Johan’s older brother, Erik, was King of Sweden and the two brothers did not get along. At the time, Sweden was at war with Poland, and Catherine was a Polish princess. Erik’s forces besieged Turku Castle for three months before Johan and Catherine were imprisoned.

    Eventually Johan became King of Sweden after a coup and Erik was kept prisoner at Turku Castle. After Johan died, his son Sigismund became the King of Sweden. From Catherine’s side, he had already been declared the King of Poland. This caused conflict between him and the Swedish Nobles, but the Finnish Nobles supported Sigismund from his fathers time as Duke. Turku Castle was besieged two more times, with the second time in 1599 ending with the massacre at the town hall of Turku on the 10th of November 1599.

    17th Century Decline

    The castle was used throughout the 17th century, but it was considered to be in bad condition by this time. There were a number of sieges and accidents at the castle throughout the 17th century. For example, in 1614, when King Gustav II Adolf visited, a huge fire destroyed the wooden structure of the main castle almost completely. After this, the main castle was abandoned and partly used as a store, while the residents moved into the bailey.

    When governor general Pietari Brahe lived here, the rooms were furnished for use of the official scribes and the fort had an armoury, shoemakers workshop, sauna, and brewery. The Castle was still important for social life where people dressed up, celebrated, and ate the European way.

    Conversion to a Prison & Russian Rule

    From the late 18th century to the late 19th century, part of the Castle was converted into a prison. Sometimes there were almost 20 prisoners to the one cell. In the winter, the air was musty and diseases were common.

    When the Finnish War began in 1808 the Castle was taken over by the Russian navy and handed back to the Finnish authorities a couple decades later, when the country became an autonomous state within the Russian empire. The Castle was then converted to a Russian barracks.

    Museum Conversion and Major Restoration

    Towards the end of the 19th century, interest in the Castle began to be renewed and the Turku Historical Museum was founded in the bailey in 1881.

    In the 1920s and 1930s, the first major restoration work began. During the work, wall paintings from the 1530s were found in the room above the gate.

    The renovation of the castle began before World War II but was interrupted by Finland’s two wars with the Soviet Union, was completed in 1987. The castle was damaged in aerial bombardments, especially in the summer of 1941 when firebombs hit the castle.

    The restored castle was handed over on 12 October 1998 to the city of Turku. The building is today owned by the Finnish state and is entrusted to the use of the city of Turku. The castle functions as a historic museum.

    Castle Construction

    Turku Castle has a medieval keep and Renaissance bailey. The keep is a square fort with two square gateway towers, and the thickness of the walls is around 5 metres (16 feet). The castle used to be surrounded by a moat.

    You can see the video below that outlines all the different stages of growth.

    https://vimeo.com/108994016

    Visiting the Castle

    The Main Castle

    The Main Castle is where you will visit first. You wander through the rooms, following a marked trail, and can read information signs that give an overview of the both the Castle’s history as well as Finland and Sweden’s history.

    There are two separate sections of the Castle when you enter: the medieval castle and the renaissance castle. They are clearly marked with arrows. In each room, there is a number on the wall and a matching description, so you never feel lost.

    There are lots of stairs and awkward entranceways, but this adds to the authenticity of the castle.

    Soon after entering the medieval castle you will see some of the 16th century artwork that was uncovered under the whitewashed walls. There’s nothing drawing attention to it, but you can’t miss it.

    Each room has an information sign in Swedish, Finnish and English with historic drawings of the castle and fun little stories. Take a look at the one above – Jordan the prisoner with multiple wives!

    The walkway up to the Sture Church

    Sture Church

    Sture Church

    The Nuns Chapel

    The most impressive rooms are the Sture Church and the Nuns Chapel, which hold the collection of medieval religious statues, something not seen elsewhere in Finland.

    The Nuns Chapel was built in the 1480s as a dining room for the Lord of the Castle, but it was given to Duchess Catherine to be her devotional chamber after she moved to Turku. After the Reformation, Catholic churches were referred to as monastic churches. The name of the Nuns Chapel therefore doesn’t reference actual numbers, but Catherine herself. In the 17th century it was used for storing flour and in the 18th century it was an armoury.

    In the Guest Room you can see one. of the first windows of Turku Castle. Before then, pig skin would be used instead of glass! Interestingly, the guest room was left empty and furniture was only brought in when needed.

    The King’s State Room was Finland’s most important secular room from the early 14th century. Nearly all of Sweden’s medieval Kings stayed in this room.

    The Kings and Queens Halls date from the 1550s, when the medieval fortification was turned into a Renaissance palace by Duke Johan and Catherine.

    The Bailey

    The exhibitions in the bailey focus on everyday life in the castle, its festivities, court and staff. I found this part a little less interesting as it feels very much like what you’d find in any other European castle. However, this will definitely be of interest to most people!

    Practical Information

    Opening Hours & Prices

    You can find up-to-date information about pricing on the museum website here.

    In winter, the museum is open Tuesday – Sunday from 10am to 6pm, while in summer it is open every day from 10am to 6pm.

    Getting There

    The castle is located out of Turku town centre, making it a little difficult to walk there. Thankfully, taking the bus is fairly easy.

    From Market Square, take bus line 1 from Platform D1 towards the harbour (satama in Finnish). The bus stop is in front of the castle.

    If you are driving, parking is available.

    Guided Tours

    Guided tours are only available in Finnish, though it is possible to book a private tour in English.

    Tell Us What You Think!

    Have you been to Turku Castle? Let us know in the comments.

    Turku Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide