Finland

  • Turku Castle: Finland’s Most Important Historic Site

    Turku Castle: Finland’s Most Important Historic Site

    Turku, Finland’s historic capital, is located on the west coast towards Sweden. Located on an island out into the bay is Turku Castle, a medieval castle that was founded in the 13th century as a bastion and administrative centre for Finland during the union with Sweden. It’s easy to visit Turku Castle from Helsinki for the day, or make it part of your visit to Turku.

    I visited Turku Castle on a cold winter day in February 2022 and found it fascinating. Helsinki is such a modern city (by comparison), so I didn’t think there were many of these historic places to be seen in Finland. Turku certainly proved me wrong, and this Castle is an excellent example of Nordic medieval castles.

    Here’s my guide to Turku Castle, including its historic importance and the exhibitions inside.

    In this article...

    History of Turku Castle

    Transformation to Living Quarters

    Eventually Turku Castle’s position shifted as various Duke’s were given control over the Castle. It was decided to expand the castle into more of a living quarters. The first major renovation took place in the 14th century. A kitchen and bakery were also added to the Castle. By the end of the century, Turku Castle was one of the largest and most important castles in the Nordic countries.

    In the 15th century one of the most remembered residents came and left his touch on the Cathedral. During the reign of Sten Sture the Elder, the castle underwent major changed during the most extensive construction works of the Middle Ages in Finland. Most importantly, the Catholic Church, known today as Sture Church, was built in the Castle. The Great Castle Hall was also expanded to two naves.

    The Vasas & the Renaissance Palace

    The next important residents were the Vasa. When Gustav Vasa became King of Sweden in the 16th century, he had Turku Castle expanded to include the bailey. He had visited the Castle and found it outdated and unpleasant. The Castle was also given a more Renaissance feel following German, Spanish and Polish examples. The Renaissance part of the Castle is known for being unique in Finnish conditions and was the only example of Renaissance-style court life in Finland. Since then, the Castle has never been added or extended, just repaired.

    Gustav Vasa’s younger son, Johan, moved into the Castle to serve as Duke of Finland. He had parties in the Castle as well as tournaments. His wife, Catherine, brought jewels, gold, velvet, curtains, tapestries, nightwear, and forks to the Castle, all of which had not really been seen in Finland before. Around 600 people worked at the Castle under Johan.

    Johan’s older brother, Erik, was King of Sweden and the two brothers did not get along. At the time, Sweden was at war with Poland, and Catherine was a Polish princess. Erik’s forces besieged Turku Castle for three months before Johan and Catherine were imprisoned.

    Eventually Johan became King of Sweden after a coup and Erik was kept prisoner at Turku Castle. After Johan died, his son Sigismund became the King of Sweden. From Catherine’s side, he had already been declared the King of Poland. This caused conflict between him and the Swedish Nobles, but the Finnish Nobles supported Sigismund from his fathers time as Duke. Turku Castle was besieged two more times, with the second time in 1599 ending with the massacre at the town hall of Turku on the 10th of November 1599.

    17th Century Decline

    The castle was used throughout the 17th century, but it was considered to be in bad condition by this time. There were a number of sieges and accidents at the castle throughout the 17th century. For example, in 1614, when King Gustav II Adolf visited, a huge fire destroyed the wooden structure of the main castle almost completely. After this, the main castle was abandoned and partly used as a store, while the residents moved into the bailey.

    When governor general Pietari Brahe lived here, the rooms were furnished for use of the official scribes and the fort had an armoury, shoemakers workshop, sauna, and brewery. The Castle was still important for social life where people dressed up, celebrated, and ate the European way.

    Conversion to a Prison & Russian Rule

    From the late 18th century to the late 19th century, part of the Castle was converted into a prison. Sometimes there were almost 20 prisoners to the one cell. In the winter, the air was musty and diseases were common.

    When the Finnish War began in 1808 the Castle was taken over by the Russian navy and handed back to the Finnish authorities a couple decades later, when the country became an autonomous state within the Russian empire. The Castle was then converted to a Russian barracks.

    Museum Conversion and Major Restoration

    Towards the end of the 19th century, interest in the Castle began to be renewed and the Turku Historical Museum was founded in the bailey in 1881.

    In the 1920s and 1930s, the first major restoration work began. During the work, wall paintings from the 1530s were found in the room above the gate.

    The renovation of the castle began before World War II but was interrupted by Finland’s two wars with the Soviet Union, was completed in 1987. The castle was damaged in aerial bombardments, especially in the summer of 1941 when firebombs hit the castle.

    The restored castle was handed over on 12 October 1998 to the city of Turku. The building is today owned by the Finnish state and is entrusted to the use of the city of Turku. The castle functions as a historic museum.

    Castle Construction

    Turku Castle has a medieval keep and Renaissance bailey. The keep is a square fort with two square gateway towers, and the thickness of the walls is around 5 metres (16 feet). The castle used to be surrounded by a moat.

    You can see the video below that outlines all the different stages of growth.

    Visiting the Castle

    The Main Castle

    The Main Castle is where you will visit first. You wander through the rooms, following a marked trail, and can read information signs that give an overview of the both the Castle’s history as well as Finland and Sweden’s history.

    There are two separate sections of the Castle when you enter: the medieval castle and the renaissance castle. They are clearly marked with arrows. In each room, there is a number on the wall and a matching description, so you never feel lost.

    There are lots of stairs and awkward entranceways, but this adds to the authenticity of the castle.

    Soon after entering the medieval castle you will see some of the 16th century artwork that was uncovered under the whitewashed walls. There’s nothing drawing attention to it, but you can’t miss it.

    Each room has an information sign in Swedish, Finnish and English with historic drawings of the castle and fun little stories. Take a look at the one above – Jordan the prisoner with multiple wives!

    The walkway up to the Sture Church

    Sture Church

    Sture Church

    The Nuns Chapel

    The most impressive rooms are the Sture Church and the Nuns Chapel, which hold the collection of medieval religious statues, something not seen elsewhere in Finland.

    The Nuns Chapel was built in the 1480s as a dining room for the Lord of the Castle, but it was given to Duchess Catherine to be her devotional chamber after she moved to Turku. After the Reformation, Catholic churches were referred to as monastic churches. The name of the Nuns Chapel therefore doesn’t reference actual numbers, but Catherine herself. In the 17th century it was used for storing flour and in the 18th century it was an armoury.

    In the Guest Room you can see one. of the first windows of Turku Castle. Before then, pig skin would be used instead of glass! Interestingly, the guest room was left empty and furniture was only brought in when needed.

    The King’s State Room was Finland’s most important secular room from the early 14th century. Nearly all of Sweden’s medieval Kings stayed in this room.

    The Kings and Queens Halls date from the 1550s, when the medieval fortification was turned into a Renaissance palace by Duke Johan and Catherine.

    The Bailey

    The exhibitions in the bailey focus on everyday life in the castle, its festivities, court and staff. I found this part a little less interesting as it feels very much like what you’d find in any other European castle. However, this will definitely be of interest to most people!

    Practical Information

    Opening Hours & Prices

    You can find up-to-date information about pricing on the museum website here.

    In winter, the museum is open Tuesday – Sunday from 10am to 6pm, while in summer it is open every day from 10am to 6pm.

    Getting There

    The castle is located out of Turku town centre, making it a little difficult to walk there. Thankfully, taking the bus is fairly easy.

    From Market Square, take bus line 1 from Platform D1 towards the harbour (satama in Finnish). The bus stop is in front of the castle.

    If you are driving, parking is available.

    Guided Tours

    Guided tours are only available in Finnish, though it is possible to book a private tour in English.

    Tell Us What You Think!

    Have you been to Turku Castle? Let us know in the comments.

  • Things to Consider When Booking a Northern Lights Tour

    Things to Consider When Booking a Northern Lights Tour

    This winter I have been taking groups up to the Arctic to help them try and find the northern lights. While it is possible to see the northern lights in the towns, I’ve been encouraging them to book tours so they can get out of the towns and be in complete darkness.

    In this article...

    Fixed location vs. flexible tours

    I noticed a lot of companies have northern lights tours where they take you out to their camp or campground. This is great because it is an indoor place where you can sit inside and relax while waiting for the lights to come out. However, there are some disadvantages.

    If the tour is going out to the one spot, there’s no flexibility. The northern lights may not be visible from their camp due to clouds, but it may be clear another 45 minutes away from the camp. For the tours that mention their cabin or camping area, you are stuck going to that one spot.

    I always recommend tours where the bus is driving wherever the northern lights have been seen.

    northern lights

    Big bus vs. minibus

    There aren’t too many differences between going on a big bus tour versus going with a mini-buss. In most situations, both buses will fit at any spot suitable for observing the northern lights.

    The big difference comes down to people, of course. Do you want to be sharing the same observation spot with 40 other people or 16 other people? More people means more time to get on/off the bus, more people setting up tripods, and more people potentially spoiling your photos by using flash (yes, it happens).

    You are basically paying a little bit more for a little bit more exclusivity. I would always pick a minibus tour over a big bus tour.

    Should I just do a bus tour or should I do an experience along with it?

    There are northern lights tour that just drive you around looking for northern lights, while there are other experiences that combine northern lights with activities. I see advantages and disadvantages of both.

    Say you want to combine the northern lights tour with a snowmobile safari. You head out, ride the snowmobile safari for two hours but see no northern lights. It’s a shame, but at least you had fun on the snowmobile?

    However, say you go on a snowmobile and get incredible lights. You can’t stop driving to set up your tripod and take pictures; you just get to experience the lights as you drive. It’s not a bad thing, but you miss out on photo opportunities. Also, experiences tend to be shorter than bus tours (2 hours vs 6 hours, for example), so you’re much more limited in how much you can see the northern lights.

    I’d say it comes down to personal preference. For me, I’d always pick a basic northern lights tour. If I want to see the northern lights, I want that to be the main focus of the night. Save the fun activities for the daytime when you can actually see around you!

    How long should the tour be?

    Ideally you want to book a tour that will go for at least 6 hours. Most tours start at 6pm and will have you back by midnight. While the northern lights can be seen early in the evening, sometimes they like to wait until the middle of the night or even early morning. The northern lights are at their best between 10pm and 1am, so you don’t want a four-hour tour sending you home at 10pm.

    Flexible policies

    Always try to find companies that offer good northern lights policies, like “if you don’t see the northern lights, you can come the next night for free!”

    I don’t like companies that say “northern lights guarantee”. The northern lights are a natural attraction and are never guaranteed.

    Does the company I book with matter?

    Yes and no. Let’s look at Tromsø, which has an overwhelming number of companies offering northern lights tours. I always try to look for companies that are well established. I check their website, their reviews, and look at how well they promote the northern lights. For example, Guide Gunnar is famous in Tromsø for northern lights, and his website looks well established and like a safe choice. Same goes for companies like Chasing Lights, Pukka Travels, and Norwegian.travel. I also look at how quickly they are selling out and how far in advance they are selling out. I never go for the cheapest tour or the only one available at the last minute.

    Always book directly with the company and not through a third party agent.

    Have any tips?

    If you have any extra tips you want to add, share them in the comments below.

    My Northern Lights Guides

    Click here for my guide to seeing the northern lights.

    Click here for my northern lights log.