Copenhagen

  • Why Dragør is the Perfect Day-trip from Copenhagen

    How to Have the Perfect Dragør day-trip from Copenhagen

    If you’re looking to get out of Copenhagen for the day, one of my favourite places to visit is Dragør. A day-trip to Dragør from Copenhagen offers a charming escape to one of Denmark’s best-preserved fishing villages, and it’s only a short bus ride away from Copehagen’s busy city centre. Known for its cobblestone streets, 18th-century fisherman cottages, and views over the Øresund Strait towards Sweden, Dragør offers visitors a taste of traditional Danish life.

    Dragør Day-trip Guide

    You can learn more about Copenhagen on my dedicated travel guide page. 

    Historic Overview of Dragør

    Dragør was founded in the 1100s as a fishing village and it was used as a fishing port for centuries. In the Middle Ages, Dragør was an international marketplace for the Hanseatic merchants who came here from August to October to take part in the herring trade.

    Dragør is particularly known for its Dutch influence because the Danish king Christian II invited Dutch farmers to live here to supply food for the royal family in the 16th century. The Dutch were more agriculturally advanced than the Danish, and they actually introduced carrots to Denmark. King Christian II also wanted to reform Danish society according to Dutch ideals, and he awarded the Dutch settlers with higher status than other peasants on the islands of Amager.

    The Dutch settled in the nearby village of Store Magleby, which the bus goes through on its way in/out of Dragør. The village has a distinct Dutch look because of this history. You can learn more about the Dutch history of the region by visiting the Amager Museum, which is located in an old Dutch farm from the 16th century. Here you learn more about the Dutch who settled in this part of Denmark and what life was like at the time.

    Dutch and Low German were spoken in this region until the 19th century. The Dutch immigrants were talented and hardworking. They were particularly known for catching, salting and selling eel to the Netherlands and England. Dragør was a convenient harbour for them, and it’s assumed that the Dutch built the harbour here. For a long time, Dragør was the largest harbour out of Copenhagen.

    Today the population is 12,000. The name Dragør is made up of two words: “Drag” means “dragging boats ashore”, which “ør” is a common Scandinavian word for a beach covered in sand or gravel.

    Walking Around

    The Picturesque Streets

    Dragør is a great place to explore on foot. You’ll notice (in the old town) that the houses are built in rows going east-west and the gardens are all facing south. The streets are all bisected with alleys going north-south. Most houses were built by the master builder J.H. Blichmann. His houses were built during the economically successful era of Dragør’s shipping during the second half of the 18th century. The houses have a black tarred base, with yellow-rendered walls and red-tiled roofs. Some older houses have thatched roofs. The houses blend Danish and Dutch influence.

    Many of the street names resemble the Hanseatic and Dutch influence on the town. For example, you’ll find Lubeck Alley, Szczecin Alley, Kampensgade and Hollandsfed.

    One of the most picturesque places in Dragør is Jens Eyberts Square. It is named after a skipper who lived in number 6 on the square from 1756 to 1811 and his living room has been perfectly preserved and transferred to Dragør Museum. There is a well in the centre of the square, and this was the towns only source of drinking water until the 1800s.

    Museums

    While in Dragør, you can also visit the local history museum to learn more about the unique history and traditions of this fishing town. At the visitors centre you can pick up some maps. Dragør Museum is by the harbour in one of the oldest houses in town from 1753. Close by you’ll find Mølsted Atelier, which is probably Denmark’s smallest art gallery. On display are the works of maritime painter Christian Mølsted, who was active throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries. You can also visit the Pilot Museum (Lodsmuseum), which is located in an old tower and showcases the everyday life of a pilot as well as how to pilot a ship. Next to the museum is a 15 metre high pilot tower that was built in 1912.

    By the Harbour

    After exploring the narrow streets of the old town, head down to the harbour. This is where you’ll find many restaurants. This is also one of the oldest ports in Denmark and has been strategically important for centuries. From the herring trade in the Middle Ages to naval activity and escape in World War II, the port is fascinating.

    One of the ships docked in the harbour was involved in evacuating Jews out of Denmark into safe and neutral Sweden. The ship is called the Elisabeth K571 and it is one of the few known remaining ships in Denmark that participated in the transport of refugees from occupied Denmark to neutral Sweden in October 1943.

    Lunch Spots

    Bakeries

    Dragør is home to a good selection of bakeries, so you will not be going hungry on your visit! I particularly like Cafe Hallöy and Lagkagehuset, both of which have a good selection of pastries, sandwiches, and excellent coffee! In summer Vaffelbageren Nyhavn (Dragør) is open, which has ice cream and waffles.

    Restaurants

    When in Dragør, one of the best places to go is the local seafood place – Dragør Røgeri. This seafood shop is located by the harbour and this is where you’ll find the locals buying various types of seafood. They also cook the seafood on request, and here I recommend getting the fish and chips. You can also find Dragør Strandhotel by the harbour. This hotel has a restaurant inside with excellent seafood options.

    Exploring Beyond the Town

    Walking Trails

    If you’re looking to go for a nice walk, you can head to Dragør fortress just outside the town centre. The fortress was built in 1910 but is now privately owned and has been turned into a hotel, so it’s also a place where you can stay. From the top of the fort you get excellent views out to the water.

    To get here, there’s a trail that goes along the waterfront. If you have a clear day, you’ll be able to see the Øresund Bridge that connects Denmark to Sweden.

    After Dragør Fort you’ll pass the Goose Republic. This inland area is where the geese of Dragør live. What am I talking about? Well, I explain that in the next section.

    Further out is the Amarminoen Walk, which will take you out to the nature park on Amager (the island Dragør is on). The walk takes between five and seven hours, so be prepared for a full day trip.

    Goose Republic

    As you walk around Dragør, you’ll see geese everywhere. Not real ones, but rather little statues or paintings in peoples homes, shops and cafes. But in older times you would’ve seen real geese roaming the streets.

    For centuries the locals kept geese almost as pets. The geese would often live in the house under kitchen tables or beds. During the day, they would freely roam the streets.

    Today geese aren’t allowed to live in peoples homes, so they’ve moved out to this flat section and it has earned the nickname ‘Goose Republic’ from the locals. The geese are still important to the town and have their own little village. You can go and take a look and it’s worth it, especially in spring and summer when the goslings have hatched.

    Swimming

    If you want to try something a little more unique, it’s possible to go for a swim at the Dragør Sjøbad. There are separate male and female sections for nude bathing as well as mixed platforms where families and couples can swim (with bathers on, of course). The pool is open all year round.

    Otherwise, close by Dragør Sjøbad is a swimming beach called Mormorstranden (literally ‘Grandma’s Beach’ when translated). This is a popular spot with the locals in the summer time.

    Getting Here

    Dragør is located right next to the airport and it takes about 45 minutes to get here from Copenhagen City Centre. There are two ways to get here:

    Bus 250S goes from outside Copenhagen Central Station (stop name: Hovedbanegården Tivoli Bernstorftsgade) direct to Dragør. The trip takes approx. 40 minutes. Alternatively, you can take the train to Tårnby Station and take bus 250S from there.

    It’s recommended to have the Copenhagen Card because that makes all public transportation free.

    You can take the metro to Copenhagen Airport, and then from there you can take bus 35 to Dragør.

    It is also possible to get to Dragør by bike. You can rent a bike easily in Copenhagen with apps like Donkey Republic, Tier or Bolt. It will take up to an hour to cycle to Dragør, depending on which part of the city you’re cycling from. The best bike route to take is Bicycle Route 80 – this route goes around the island of Amager and starts in Copenhagen.

    Click here to learn more about Bicycle Route 80. 

    Final Thoughts on Dragør Day-Trip

    Hopefully I’ve managed to convince you that Dragør is a lovely spot to spend the day! Despite being so close to Copenhagen, it feels so remote and peaceful. The village is incredibly charming, and there are lovely walking trails for you to do as well.

    Enjoy your visit to Dragør!

    Be sure to check out my travel guide for Copenhagen by clicking the button above. 

  • Christianshavn, Christian IV’s Merchant Town – Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Christianshavn - Christian IV's Merchant City - Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Christianshavn is the hipster cool district of Copenhagen. It makes it perfect for a self-guided walking tour!

    The neighbourhood – located just south of the city – was established in the 17th century by the infamous King Christian IV, who was heavily inspired by Dutch merchant towns such as Amsterdam. Christianshavn quickly became a rough sailors neighbourhood, and in the 1970s the hippies took over the Christiania commune and made it their town. 

    Today Christianshavn is becoming a high-end alternative neighbourhood in the heart of Copenhagen. It is still a great place to explore, thanks to its many preserved buildings. 

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    Christianshavn Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins on the Christianshavn side of the Knippelsbro Bridge, which begins by Christiansborg Palace on its northern side. 

    Torvegade

    This is the main thoroughfare through Christianshavn, and some of the buildings here are very historic.

    Look at numbers 22, 24, 27 and 30. They are all from the 18th century and are listed buildings.

    Strandgade

    The street originally ran along the waterfront and is on the original plans of Christianshavn from 1617. The plots where not popular here, so the King had to give them away for free to wealthy citizens on the condition they build good commerce houses.

    The Danish East India Company and the Danish West India Company established their headquarters here.

    In 1738, Denmark’s first dry dock opened here.

    Strandgade 44

    This building is is Irgrens Gård. It was built on one of the original plots of land for Christianshavn and gets its name from Joachim Irgrens, who took over the property in 1664. Here there was the king’s copper works company, with the mining operations in Røros, Norway. The income was so great that at one point the company was able to lend the King money. The King did not pay Irgrens back, but instead gave him all of Northern Norway!

    Wildersgade

    This street is named after the merchant and shipyard owner, Carl Wilder, who in the 18th century ran a shipyard at Wilders Plads. This street was a slightly nicer street to be on than Strandgade, and many distinguished trading houses were here.

    Sankt Annæ Gade

    The street has been here since Christianshavn was founded and is named after Saint Anna, who was the mother of the Virgin Mary. There used to be a row of poor houses here, but they have since disappeared.

    Dronningensgade

    Dronningensgade has a number of interesting brick buildings.

    Number 67 was a girls school. The school was established in 1799 but moved to this building in 1912. The girls school was for girls aged between five and twelve, and the aim was to “educate the girls minds and make them good at handicrafts”. The school admitted students from both noble and bourgeois families, but that the principle that no distinction was made. French was taught, but not English, which the school believed was something the parents themselves had to ensure that the children learned. The school also admitted boys from 1976 onwards.

    The Church of Our Saviour

    The church of Christianshavn was supposed to be a couple blocks further west at Christianshavns Torv, but that never happened. This church was completed in 1696. The architect was Lambert van Haven, who designed the church in the Dutch Baroque style. It is built in the shape of a cross, which is not common in Denmark.

    Originally the church had no spire. Lambert died before the church was put into use, and the twisted spire was not part of his original plan. It was added to the church in 1750 and was designed by Laurids de Thurah. The spiral twist is probably inspired by the Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza church in Rome. It is said that Thurah threw himself from the tower because the spire twisted the wrong way in relation to the King’s wish, but that is just a myth.

    For a small fee, you can take the stairs all the way to the top of the spire!

    You can read more about visiting the Church of Our Saviour by clicking here. 

    Christiania

    If you were to turn left at Prinsessegade, you would reach the free-town Christiania. Christiania is a neighbourhood lived in by Copenhagen’s hippy and artists. Since its establishment by squatters in 1971, the area has drawn non-conformists from across the globe, attracted by the concept of collective business, workshops and communal living. Unfortunately Christiania is best-known for Pusher Street, where hash is openly traded despite it being very illegal in Denmark. There have been recent attempts to shut down Pusher Street in 2024, and it’s not the best place to visit in Christiania. Explore the neighbourhood, beautiful park areas, and see the wonderful DIY homes. There’s also great and cheap eateries here as well as regular concerts.

    Before its development, Christiania was an abandoned military camp. Some of the buildings in there are still standing 200-300 years later. Christiania also has some preserved ramparts. This walk is now going to go to some of the preserved ramparts out of the free town.

    Amager Port

    This was one of the four gates that brought you into Copenhagen. It is not known what the first gate looked like, but a gate was known from 1724 and it used to be closed at night. Next to the gate was a porter’s residence, which is the old building you can see.

    Across the street is the street Amager Gade, which was part of Christianshavn’s working class. In 1867, 1,000 people lived on the street – or 7% of the entire population. The street used to be much longer, but has since been cut up with Ved Volden. A large part of the streets houses are old and represent tenement barracks in a rich contrast to the merchant farms you saw earlier.

    Christianshavn's Ramparts

    The rampart you see here is the best-preserved part of Copenhagen’s fortifications from the 17th century.

    The facility was an integral part of the plan of the new district of Christianshavn. The ramparts were closed in 1909 and now it’s a park area.

    Sofiegade

    The street is named after Queen Sofie of Mecklenburg, who was Christian IV’s mother. There were many taverns on this street. Number 15 was Christianshavn Bathing Institution in 1909. It dates from a time when many residents did not have a bath in their apartment. There were separate entrances for men and women. Number 10 was a brandy distillery with cows on the first floor. The building is still a bathhouse today.

    Christiania's Torv

    This is the main square for Christianshavn. Originally the prison and Children’s house. The idea was to house people on the street and train them to be craftsmen to create a state production of cloth. Stray children were also taken in. It was described as a building for “deformed, disobedient and orphaned children”, but later also took thieves, beggars and women. It developed into something of a forced labour facility that produced clothing for the military.

    Conditions for the inmates were poor. The food served was considered unfit for human consumption.

    Children were no longer kept there from 1790 onwards, and it became more of a prison. In 1817, the prisoner’s rioted and burned down the building. It was rebuilt but demolished in 1928.

    The bridge you’ll cross back to Copenhagen is called Børnehusbroen – the Children’s House Bridge – and commemorates this building. Follow Torvegade back to Christiansborg, or from here you can take the metro.

    Christianshavn Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Enjoy your walk around Christianshavn! If you want a self-guided walk with more details, be sure to buy my downloadable Christianshavn self-guided walking tour. 

  • Kongens Nytorv, Nyhavn & Amalienborg: A Self-Guided Walk in Copenhagen

    Kongens Nytorv, Nyhavn & Amalienborg: A Self-Guided Walk in Copenhagen

    Here’s my self-guided walk from Nyhavn to Amalienborg via Kongens Nytorv in Copenhagen. The area around Nyhavn was developed in the 17th century as a new market place that would be larger and more accommodating than the old Gammel Tov. The neighbourhood, called Frederiksstaden, also emerged as a place for Copenhagen’s elite to build their manor homes. Today Kongens Nytorv, the old market, has been turned into a major traffic junction in Copenhagen, while the old harbour Nyhavn has become the city’s most famous attraction. The royal family also call Frederiksstaden home at their palace Amalienborg.

    On this walk you’ll wander through the neighbourhood, seeing all the different sides it has to offer. 

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    Kongens Nytorv, Nyhavn & Amalienborg

    This walk begins in the centre of Kongens Nytorv in Copenhagen.

    Kongens Nytorv

    The walk begins in the middle of Kongens Nytorv – a large square in the east of Copenhagen. 

    Kongens Nytorv was laid out by King Christian V in 1670 as Copenhagen was being expanded. The idea was to move away from the older square Gammeltorv (literally The Old Square), which at the time was a muddy medieval market. Kongens Nytorv was to have a lovely garden and cobblestones. The inspiration came from Paris. 

    The city’s eastern gate used to be here, but it was moved to make way for the district to be called New Copenhagen. Eventually the eastern gate was abandoned. 

    The baroque garden was completed in 1688 but didn’t survive too long – in 1747 the entire square was rebuilt by King Frederick V as a military ceremony ground. 

    Throughout the 2000s Kongens Nytorv underwent a massive refurbishment including the construction of the metro – it opened in 2019 to the public. It is used as an exhibition space, ice skating rink, market, and for high school graduation ceremonies. 

    Christian V Statue

    The equestrian statue is of King Christian V, who initiated the construction of Kongens Nytorv. It dates to 1688, when the baroque garden was completed, and today it’s the oldest equestrian statue in Scandinavia.

    Inspiration came from the statue of Louis XIII which stands at Place des Vosges in Paris.

    The positioning of the horse made it difficult for the metal, and the construction had to be strengthened. To do this, they put a naked man under the horse – this is supposed to represent envy, but really it’s just supporting the horse. 

    The Old Kiosk

    The old kiosk dates back to 1913. It is built int he Baroque Revival style and used to offer the first public telephone connection in Copenhagen. It was possible to make a call every day except Sundays. The phone box was open from 10am to 8pm. 

    Charlottenborg Palace

    Charlottenborg Palace is the oldest building on Kongens Nytorv. When the square was being constructed, the plots around it were sold off to Copenhagen’s elite. This one was built as a residence for Ulrik Frederick Gyldenløve, who was Christian V’s half brother. At the time, he was the Governor General of Norway.

    Today the building is home to the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts (they have been here since 1754) and there is a exhibition space called Kunsthal Charlottenborg that you can visit. 

    French Classicism, 1780

    Harsdorff House

    Harsdorff House was built in 1780 as a private residence for Caspar Frederick Harsdorfff, who had become the professor of perspective at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts in 1766. 

    It has since served as a model for the many master builders of the time who had little academic training.

    Art Nouveau, 1931

    The Royal Theatre

    The theatre was founded in 1748 as a theatre for the King, but has since become a theatre for the country. 

    1874

    Hotel D'Angleterre

    This hotel is one of the oldest and most prestigious hotels in the world, and on top of that it is regarded as one of the first deluxe hotels in the world.

    There are 30 rooms and 60 suites inside, and the most expensive room I could find online is a 90m2 apartment that goes for $2,500 USD a night. The cheapest room I could find for January 2022 was $479 for one night. 

    In Alfred Hitchcock’s Tom Curtain, the protagonist (played by Paul Newman) stays here. Hitchcock is one of the scenes sitting in the lobby with a baby in his arms. 

    There is also a 1 Michelin Star restaurant inside. 

    Dutch Baroque, 1683

    French Embassy

    This lovely building was constructed in 1683 as the home for the Danish war hero Niels Juel, who had won the fame of wealth for his victory in the Battle of Køge Bay. When Niels died, Christian V had his “official mistress” and mother of five of his children, Sophie Amalie Moth, take over the mansion.

    The building was purchased by the French state in 1930 and is now the French Embassy. 

    Nyhavn

    Nyhavn is arguably the most famous place in Copenhagen. This harbour area (Nyhavn literally means “New Harbour”) is full of colourful warehouses that have now been converted into hip restaurants, bars and shops – though the area does feel particularly touristy and a little overpriced. 

    The harbour is artificial. It was constructed by King Christian V from 1670 to 1675 and dug out by Swedish prisoners of war from the Dano-Swedish War of 1658-1660. It was designed to be a gateway into the new Kongens Nytorv and was a place for fishermen to drop off their catch and for ships to handle cargo.

    Shortly after it was finished, it became notorious for the flowing of beer, the large number of sailors, and for prostitution. Most of the plots were sold off to merchants and skippers, and the buildings were used by people associated with maritime professions. 

    Fortunately the largest fires of Copenhagen have not made it to Nyhavn, so many of the buildings are from the mid-1700s, though there are some still standing from the 17th century.

    The area was pestrianised in 1980 and cleaned up. It became too small for modern ships and was transformed into the destination area we see today. It still has a grungy feel thanks to the bars, but that’s part of the charm of the area. 

    Memorial Anchor

    At the end of the harbour is a memorial anchor. it is placed there to commemorate the 1700 Danish soldiers and sailors in service for the Navy, merchant fleet or Allied forces who sacrificed their lives during World War II.

    The anchor was inaugurated in 1951. 

    Ships in the Harbour

    The ships at. the inner part of the harbour are owned by the Danish National Museum. 

    One of the most unique ships is the Lightvessel XVII Gedser Rev – the ship acts as a lighthouse and was used in areas that are too deep or unsuitable for lighthouse construction. 

    Nyhavn 7: Hong Kong Bar

    Nyhavn 7 is an old building from the 17th century. The name of the bar, the Hong Kong Bar, has nothing to do with Hong Kong. In fact, this is one of the last remaining sailors bars on Nyhavn. The Hong Kong bar was also a place where the sailors could get something besides beer, if you know what I mean… 

    Nyhavn 9

    Nyhavn 9 is believed to be the oldest house remaining on the street. It is also one of the few townhouses that was not heightened in the 19th century.

    The property was built in 1681 for harbourmaster Christen Christensen. After that, it was divided into apartments. 

    Since 1982, the building has been owned by Christel Windfeld-Lund. She doesn’t live in the building, but the restaurant Leonora Christine is based in the cellar. 

    Nyhavn 11

    Nyhavn 11 is from 1689 and has had a wide variety of interesting owners. One of the first owners was Jacob Severin, who married into wealth and was in 1733 granted a full monopoly on trade with Greenland. He founded a town in Greenland called Jacobshavn after himself. The town is still there, but is today known as Ilulissat. 

    Another interesting owner is Ludvig Ferdinand Romer, who established a sugar refinery in the building. He had previously been the governor of the Danish Gold Coast – a Danish colony in West Africa in present day Ghana. 

    Above the front entrance today is a figure of a sugar baker holding a sugar loaf in one hand and a sugar tin in the other. It was a way of identifying the houses before house numbers were a thing.

    By 1840, there were 34 people living in the property. 

    Nyhavn 67

    Nyhavn 67 is famous because it is where Hans Christian Andersen lived. Originally built as one household in the late 17th century, it was expanded and in the mid-19th century had five households here. 

    Andersen lived here with only short interruptions from 1848 to 1865.

    Today it is known as cafe H.C. Anderson. 

    Toldbodegade

    Toldbodegade (Customs House Street) led from the city centre of Copenhagen to the customs office. A string of warehouses were built along this street, most notably the West India Warehouse. 

    Sankt Annæ Plads

    Saint Anne Place is named after a chapel that used to stand here in the Middle Ages. The chapel was dedicated to the Virgin Mary’s mother, Saint Anna. The chapel only lasted for a few decades and is mostly forgotten in history, but its name was shared with a hospital called Saint Anna. The hospital stood for a long time in this area. 

    The location was believed to have healing power, and during excavations a number of crutches were found near where the chapel used to stand. People think the “cripples” (as the term in history books is used) were healed on the site and no longer needed their crutches. 

    The shape of the square today is similar to that of Nyhavn. That’s because this used to be a canal, but it was filled in to build the Royal Navy Hospital. Once it became a square, the district became fashionable with many nice buildings here. The garden was planted in 1852. 

    The beautiful building to your right is the old headquarters for DFDS (De Forende Dampskibs Selskaber), a shipping company. It now houses the Embassy of Finland and the Danish Nurses Association. 

    The statue that you see is of Carl Frederick Tietgen (1829-1901). He was a Danish financier and industrialist who played an important role in the industrialisation of Denmark and founded companies such as Tuborg (beer company) and DFDS. 

    Admiral Hotel

    This warehouse was constructed in 1787 for a shipping company. From the 1880s it was used to store grain. 

    The building was bought in 1973 to be converted into a hotel, which it is today. 

    Copenhagen Opera House

    Step into Amaliehaven – the garden area facing the water. This park is fairly new – it was established in 1983 and is designed to compliment the symmetry of Frederiksgade and Amalienborg. Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro created the works for the park, including the four columns that are supposed to represent the areas old use as a shipyard. 

    The opera house in Copenhagen is a bit of a controversy. It is one of the most expensive opera houses ever built, costing 2.5 billion DKK ($370,000,000 USD). It was funded by the Maersk shipping company. Some politicians were offended by the private donation, in part because the full cost was tax deductible, thus virtually forcing the government to buy the building. 

    The Maersk shipping magnate Maersk Mc-Kinney Møller had final say in the design. Many think the intention was to make. it look like a shipping container. 

    After its opening in 2005, the architect Henning Larsen wrote a book being very critical of the building. He distanced himself from it, calling it a “mausoleum” for Maersk Mc-Kinney Møller and “without comparison the most owner-infected ‘worst case’ in my fifty years as an independent arhcitect – squeezed between the Phantom of the Opera himself (i.e. Maersk), shipping magnates and lawyers.

    Directions: Head across the street into Amalienborg. Look at the wall to your left as you enter – there are bullet holes there from fighting between the Danes and the Nazis during World War II. 

    Amalienborg Palace

    You have made it to Amalienborg Palace, the home of the Danish royal family. 

    The name comes from Queen Sophie Amalie, who built a palace here after buying the land in 1660. It was a small mansion and large garden area, but it was all destroyed in 1689. The plot was deserted until 1728 before being bought and built as four manors for four noble families. 

    When the original royal residence, Christiansborg Palace, burned down in 1794 this became the temporary home of the royal family. Eventually they decided to make it their permanent residence. 

    Today the Danish royal family is one of the world’s oldest monarchs, and Amalienborg is considered to be the most distinguished piece of Rococo architecture in Denmark.

    We’ll go clockwise around the square, starting with the building immediately to your left. 

    Schacks Palace / Christian IX's Palace

    This is the current residence of Queen Margrethe II – if the flag is up, she’s home. 

    Moltke Palace

    Since 1885, this palace has been used to accommodate prominent guests. 

    Levetzau's Palace

    This was the home of Crown Prince Frederick until 2004. Today it is used as a museum for the royal house and you can visit the royal apartments with their original fittings and furnishings. 

    Brockdorff's Palace

    This is the current residence of Crown Prince Frederick and Princess Mary. It is fairly common to see them in this area – cycling their kids to school and so on. 

    Statue: King Frederick V

    The statue represents King Frederick V, the founder of Amalienborg. It was commissioned by Moltke, one of the old palace owners. The statue cost more than the entirety of Amalienborg. 

    Marble Church

    The Marble Church, formally known as Fredericks Church, is one of the most distinctive buildings in Copenhagen. The church was designed in 1740 and. the foundation stone was set by King Frederick V on 31 October 1749. However, due to budget constraints, the church was abandoned in 1770 and stood in ruins for 150 years.

    In 1874 Andreas Frederick Krieger, Denmark’s Finance Minister, sold. the ruins of the uncompleted church to Carl Frederick Tietgen on the condition that Tietgen would build a church similar to the original plans and then donate it to the state. Tietgen did just that. In return, Tietgen got the rights to subdivide the neighbouring plots for development. The deal was highly controversial at the time and Krieger was charged with corruption, though he was acquitted. 

    The church is mostly made of limestone and not marble as the name implies, due to budget cuts. 

  • A Self-Guided Walk Between Rosenborg Castle and the Round Tower

    A Self-Guided Walk Between Rosenborg Castle and the Round Tower

    The walk between Rosenborg Castle and the Round Tower is very short – it’ll take you about 15 minutes – but I think the walk is lovely. You get to pass through the King’s Garden, see some old 18th century merchant houses, and pass the Trinity Church. This is also a route you’ll likely do when you’re in Copenhagen; both points are major attractions in the city.

    In the future I’ll write detailed overviews of both Rosenborg and the Round Tower, but for now here is a nice walk between the two main points. 

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    Walking Route

    Rosenborg Castle

    Rosenborg Castle was constructed in 1606 as a summer house for King Christian IV. It served as a royal residence until 1710. Since then it has been home to the royal collection, which has allowed for the interiors to be well-preserved. 

    Layout

    On the third floor is the long hall, which was originally intended as a ballroom but was eventually converted into the Royal Reception Rooms. From the 19th century it was known as the “Knights Hall”. Inside you can see the coronation chair of the kings.

    Architecture

    The castle is designed in a Dutch Renaissance style in red brick, which is common for Danish architecture of the time. 

    Visiting Rosenborg

    Rosenborg is open throughout the year.

    Virtual Tour of Rosenborg Castle

    If you can’t visit the castle, it is possible to do a virtual tour of the castle online. Click here to view it. 

    The King's Garden

    The King’s Garden is the country’s oldest royal garden. It is built in the Renaissance style and was designed shortly after Rosenborg was completed. 

    This was also where herbs and vegetables were grown for the royal kitchen. You can visit the royal herb garden to see the apples, pears, cherries, plums and other foods such as almonds and figs. The garden is much smaller than it used to be – when it was built it had 1,400 different plants. 

    The park has become one of the most popular places to spend time in the summer, and you’ll often see picnics in the park. 

    The royal family lost interest in the garden in the 18th century. It was open to the public in the 1770s under King Christian VII’s doctor, J.F. Struensee. Their relationship is featured in a Danish movie called A Royal Affair. 

    Most of the trees you are passing are lime trees. 

    The Pavilions

    As you exit the park, you’ll pass some lovely pavilions on either side of the gate. These were designed by city architect Petery Meyn, who had just returned from Paris. He was inspired by the Pont Neuf with its iron fence and small shops.

    With this inspiration, he had 14 small shop pavilions built around The King’s Garden. They were completed in 1806 and sold everything from cakes to stockings. All of them are in a matching Neoclassical style.

    Today they are still little shops. They are rented out by the Palaces and Properties Agency on two-year leases with the possibility of extension. To be granted a lease, you have to have the shop open for a minimum of 20 hours a week and the shop has to be somewhat relevant to the areas history – many of them are cafes. 

    Gothersgade

    The name Gothersgade comes from the royal title “de gothers” (and gade means street). 

    The street runs along where the eastern rampart of Copenhagen’s former fortifications was. The street was laid out in 1647 after the Eastern Rampart had been moved north to expand the city. 

     

    Landemærket

    The name directly translates to “The Landmark”. Historically, the street was where the transition from the built-up area of the city and the last undeveloped lots within the city walls were. 

    The street can be seen on maps from the 16th century. From the late 18th century, this is where some small shops were established. They sold various goods such as tea and coffee, porcelain, stockings and bread. 

    The houses from numbers 43 to 55 are all from 1730 and are listed for protection. 

     

    Trinity Church

    The church was constructed between 1637 and 1651 and includes the former University of Copenhagen library. It was constructed to be the student church for the nearby University of Copenhagen, and the decision was to include the church in the same complex as the astronomical observatory. 

    The current exterior dates to 1870 from the renovation work. 

    Round Tower

    You’ve made it to the Round Tower! I cover the Round Tower in a separate article (including what you can see inside), but here’s a short overview:

    The Round Tower is an astronomical observatory constructed in the mid-17th century. At the time, astronomy was growing in importance around Europe, and countries were competing with each other in establishing colonies around the world. This created the need for accurate navigation across the ocean, of which astronomy played a vital role. 

    The tower was built for Christian Longomontanus, King Christian IV’s new astronomer and the first professor of astronomy at the University of Copenhagen. 

    The Round Tower is a cylindrical tower of masonry. On the upper part of the facade is a gilded rebus inscription, which includes four Hebrew consonants of the Tetragrammaton as well as Christian IV’s monogram. 

    By the 19th century the tower was considered out of date due to the light pollution from the city and it was closed.

    We’ll cover going up the Round Tower in a separate article.