A Walk Through Gamle Stavanger
Gamle (Old) Stavanger is probably the most known part of Stavanger. It is certainly one of the most visited tourist attractions in the city, and rightly so. Gamle Stavanger is a preserved district of around 155 wooden houses from the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s incredibly charming, scenic, picturesque, and Norwegian.
I’ve written a walking guide to Stavanger, where I provide a detailed overview of where to walk in Gamle Stavanger. If you are interested in that, click here.
This article is more of a general guide to Gamle Stavanger. The goal here is to show you what the area is all about and why it’s such a great place to visit.
Before we start, I should say there is very little information on each individual house and street. There are (very expensive) books on Gamle Stavanger in Norwegian, but as of writing there’s very little in English. I also find it interesting that this is referred to as ‘Old Stavanger’, when the town centre (see the self-guided walk) is much older.
History of Gamle Stavanger
It’s not sure how old Gamle Stavanger is. Some houses have been here since the 1700s, but the area was mostly open pastures. Before 1820, there was one row of warehouses along the bay and a few scattered properties on the slope above it.
As a result of rich herring fishing, shipping, and shipbuilding, there was a huge population growth between 1815-1880. The area where Gamle Stavanger is became the city’s first housing development. The first houses built here were tiny; during an economic boom in the 1860s and 1870s, many were demolished to make way for larger houses. Some original houses remain, but many only exist as parts of a newer construction.
After World War II, there was interest in demolishing houses to build apartments. In 1951, Einar Heden (1916-2001) took the initiative to preserve the dilapidated Gamle Stavanger. On 11 November 1957, the Gamle Stavanger Foundation was founded. Heden became the association’s first chairman. Over the next few years, more began to care about Gamle Stavanger. In 1965 the Council voted unanimously to preserve Gamle Stavanger and 79 buildings. 10 years later, the area was expanded to 154 houses – the current regulation.
Today, it is recognised that the existence of Gamle Stavanger is thanks to Heden. Before his conservation work, Gamle Stavanger was one of the least desirable areas. It consisted of rundown wooden buildings owned by the lowest classes. Today Gamle Stavanger is one of the wealthiest areas to live.
The Canning Industry
The canning industry is important to Stavanger, and there is a Canning Museum located here. Note that the museum is closed for an extensive renovation and will be closed until spring 2021.
While most of the factories have been torn down, some still exist. For example, close to the tourist information centre is this grand red building. This is where the Stavanger Preserving Co. was located.
This is the first cannery to be built in Stavanger, established in 1873.
The building is no longer used as a cannery; in the 1980s, the company merged with Norway Foods and moved headquarters. Today this building is a bank.
The Oldest House in Stavanger
Villa Blidensol is Stavanger’s oldest house, after the Cathedral and the Bishop’s Chapel.
Blidensol is first mentioned on a map in 1726. It is next mentioned in a written source in 1737. The building itself is thought to be from 1777, though some believe it is older – it’s hard to know what’s original, what was moved here, etc. The villa is built in an Empire style that was probably added in the period 1805-1820. Much of the interior is unchanged.
The first known owner is Laurits Andersen Smith (1680-1758). He bought several smaller plots and merged them into a large estate. The name isn’t very Norwegian; that is because he came from Scotland. Laurits is the son of Andrew Smith, who did the wood carvings inside Stavanger Cathedral. They owned the home until 1825. From then on, the large estate was continuously subdivided into smaller plots.
When lawyer Christen Iben Minos bought the house in the mid-1980s, it was quite decayed. He and his wife extensively restored and modernised the house, though keeping it in an old style. Today the villa is privately owned and it’s a little tricky to see.
The White Houses
A true highlight of Gamle Stavanger is the white houses. These houses are very characteristically Norwegian, with their weatherboard and ceramic tile roof.
For me it was a photographers dream, especially with the sun shining. Here are some photos of the houses.
Gamle Stavanger consists of around 173 buildings, though this has risen to 250.
Why are the houses wooden?
Wood has historically been the cheapest source of material and more easy to obtain than stone. Stone, on the other hand, is for important buildings like the Stavanger Cathedral. In history, white was the most expensive coat of paint as it showed wealth. The reason these houses are white is not because of this, but because in the 19th century neoclassical was the style, and neoclassical meant white houses.
On some of the houses, you’ll see mirrors sticking out the side. This is very typical of houses close by the sea. In the old times, if you’re sitting inside and hear someone coming your way, you can use this two-way mirror to check who it is. If it’s someone you like, you can welcome them inside. If it’s someone you don’t like, pretend to not be home! The wives would use these mirrors when gossiping with friends; their husbands were often away at sea.
Who owns the houses?
The houses are privately owned. Originally these were the poorest homes in the city, but now they have become some of the most desired homes. The price tag reflects this.
Here are two examples of places for sale at the moment. The one at the top is a house with two bedrooms (soverom) on sale for 3.1 million NOK. The second one is an apartment with one bedroom on sale for 3.6 million NOK.
Issues with Tourists
In recent years Gamle Stavanger has become a popular destination with tourists. That’s (of course) fine, but in the last couple years there have been issues with tourists. Mostly the issue is that some tourists have been looking through mailboxes, peeking through windows, and even walking into people’s private gardens! Some believe that, because it’s a collection of old buildings, it must be an open air museum. Locals own these homes. You cannot start violating their privacy. I know my readers won’t do it, but keep in mind people do it.
Part of the problem is the growing number of cruise ships, which dock right outside Gamle Stavanger. The pollution and overcrowding is becoming a problem for residents. Just look at these photos:
Just Google ‘Gamle Stavanger cruise ship’ for many photos like this (or click here).
In 2019, 234 cruise ships called at Stavanger bringing 496,000 passengers. The vast majority of these come between the tourist season – May to September. Some cruise ships carry up to 5,000 passengers. (Source)
Don’t get me wrong; I don’t mind cruise ships. After all, I’m a local guide and rely on that income. Cruise ships can do a lot of good. If you’re coming to Stavanger on a cruise ship, be sure to be extra nice to the locals. If you’re going to be in Stavanger when there’s a cruise ship in, perhaps reconsider when you want to leave the hotel room!
Einar Heden's Plass
This is a small square where you can sit and reflect. The name is from the man who saved Gamle Stavanger – city architect Einar Heden.
You’ll see an old power post in the backyard of one of the houses. The square also offers lovely views of Stavanger town.
Visiting Gamle Stavanger
Gamle Stavanger is a free, public area in Stavanger city centre. There are plenty of shops, cafes and some museums. It’s perfect for an afternoon visit.
Gamle Stavanger is located about a five minute walk from the city centre (see circled area above).
Have you been to Gamle Stavanger? Share your experience in the comments.
