The Hidden North
North European travel guide
Population 19,000 / 65.4 degrees north
Kemi, Finland
Nestled on the northern shore of the Gulf of Bothnia in Finnish Lapland, Kemi is a small town with big surprises. It was founded in 1869 by Russia’s Tsar Alexander II due to its valuable deep-water port and grew into a thriving, industrious city. Today, Kemi proudly showcases unique attractions – a giant SnowCastle that is open year-round and even an icebreaker ship for tourists.
About Kemi
Latitude: 65.4 degrees north
Population: 19,000
Kemi coat-of-arms
In this Travel Guide...
Map of Kemi
Things to See & Do
Here’s an overview of some of the best things to see and do in Kemi
Snow Castle
Kemi Snow Castle
The SnowCastle of Kemi (Kemin LumiLinna) is the town’s headline attraction and a must-see in any season. Every winter since 1996, Kemi has constructed the world’s largest snow fort on the shore – an enchanting complex of ice and snow that changes design each year. At full size, it can span 10,000–20,000 m² and features walls and sculptures carved from glistening snow and crystal-clear ice. Inside you’ll find an Ice Restaurant and even a SnowHotel with themed suites (for the truly adventurous, you can sleep overnight in a room made entirely of snow and ice – thermal sleeping bags provided!). There’s also a chapel made of snow (popular for fantasy weddings) and fun snow slides for all ages. Each SnowCastle is unique, lasting from late January to April, when it melts.
Winter in summer
Indoor Snow Gallery
Adjacent to the winter castle site is the SnowExperience365 indoor gallery – a smaller, year-round ice exhibition kept at -5°C that lets visitors experience ice sculptures and an ice bar during summer
Museum
Workers Home Museum
The town’s open-air Workers’ Home Museum (in the nearby Karihaara district) preserves 1920s wooden homes of sawmill workers, offering insight into the everyday life of early 20th-century families.
Gallery
Kemi Gemstone Gallery
The Kemi Gemstone Gallery houses one of Europe’s finest gemstone collections, with over 3,000 gems and jewellery pieces on display. Kemi boasts a rather unexpected treasure trove – literally. The Kemi Gemstone Gallery houses one of Europe’s finest gemstone collections, with over 3,000 gems and jewellery pieces on displayexpedia.com. Housed in Kemi’s old Customs House by the harbour, this small museum’s prize exhibit is the magnificent Crown of the King of Finland (Finland never had a monarch, but a crown was crafted in 1918 just in case – it’s adorned with 2,000 gemstones and gilded bronze, and here you can see the real thing!) You’ll also find replicas of famous jewels, including the British Imperial State Crown and a 647-diamond necklace once worn by Marie Antoinette.
Gallery
Kemi Art Museum
The Kemi Art Museum (Lapland’s first art museum, established in 1947) hosts rotating exhibitions of Finnish art and local contemporary pieces. It’s conveniently located in the Cultural Centre, making it easy to combine with the Historical Museum in one visit.
Historic Churches
Various Historic Churches
One of Kemi’s proud symbols is the Kemi Church, a striking neo-Gothic stone church completed in 1902. Designed by architect Josef Stenbäck, it features a soaring 65-metre spire and a large rose window that dominates the skyline. Step inside to admire its wooden vaulted ceilings and tranquil interior (the church often hosts concerts and is especially atmospheric at Christmastime).
Another noteworthy church is the small Kemi Orthodox Church, which reflects the town’s multicultural influences. Although built more recently (in the 1970s), it continues a local Orthodox parish heritage dating back to the Russian Empire era.
Just outside town in Keminmaa lies St. Michael’s Church (pictured), built in the 1500s, famous for a macabre marvel: the naturally mummified remains of Pastor Nicolaus Rungius (d. 1629) are displayed beneath the floor. According to legend, he proclaimed his body would not decay if his words were true – and indeed his preserved corpse is visible to summer visitors, making this medieval church an intriguing historical side trip
Hikes, Day Trips & Experiences
Looking to go for a hike or take part in a unique experience? Here are our recommendations!
Ice Breaker
Sampo
This massive ship served for decades clearing shipping lanes in the Baltic, and since 1988 it has been repurposed as a tourism icebreaker – one of the few in the world. In winter (usually late December through April), Sampo sails from Kemi’s port on daily excursions to the frozen Bothnian Bay. Passengers can explore the engine room and bridge, learn about icebreaking, and then head on deck as Sampo crushes through metre-thick sea ice with a thunderous crunching sound.
Mid-cruise, Sampo stops and guests are invited to don bright orange survival suits and float among the broken ice floes! Don’t worry – you stay completely dry and warm inside the insulated suit. Bobbing in the icy Gulf of Bothnia is both surreal and exhilarating, with the winter sun low on the horizon. Cruises last about 4 hours and return by sunset, at which point you’ll have a certificate to prove you braved the Arctic waters.
Sauna
Harbour Sauna Area
The Inner Harbour area features a sauna and swimming area that are available for use throughout the year. An ice skating track often forms on the frozen sea, and the Satamakonttori (Harbour Office) opens a public sauna and ice swimming hole for the brave (a truly Finnish experience – rolling in the snow or dipping in an ice hole after a hot sauna!).
Many hotels offer saunas for their guests, and there are public saunas located by the shore, such as the Potna-Veikko Sauna Boat, which doubles as a floating sauna cruise in the summer.
Day Trip
Tornio & Haparanda
Only 25 km west of Kemi (about 30 minutes by bus or car), Tornio and Haparanda sit on either side of the Finnish-Swedish border and effectively form one town split by an invisible line. You can have lunch in Finland and walk across the border for coffee in Sweden – no checkpoints or passports needed, just a sign marking the crossing over the Torne River.
Tornio’s highlights include the old wooden Church of Alatornio (1797, UNESCO tentative list, blending Finnish and Swedish church traditions) and the Aine Art Museum, showcasing modern Finnish art and Tornio Valley culture.
Haparanda, on the Swedish side, is known for its Haparanda Church, a handsome 19th-century stone church, and the historic Haparanda Stadshotell, a hotel that hosted diplomats during WWI. Drop by their restaurant for a Swedish meatball meal or to see the grand interior. Also of note is Haparanda’s IKEA – once touted as the northernmost IKEA in the world, it became a cross-border shopping curiosity, as Finnish visitors flocked here before IKEA opened in Finland. Even if you’re not shopping, it underscores the quirky cross-cultural ties of this area. In summer, Tornio has riverboat cruises on the Torne, and in winter, you can cross-country ski across the border on the frozen river. Buses run regularly between Kemi and Tornio/Haparanda, and a new passenger train connection is in development (as of 2025, direct rail service from Kemi to Haparanda via Tornio is expected to be operational in the near future).
Ghost Tour
Kemi Ghost Tour
Guided “ghost walks” and graveyard tours are occasionally organised, sharing local legends and lore in an entertaining way (check with the tourist office if they coincide with your visit).
Road-Trips
Follow our road-trip guides for scenic trips around Kemi
Self-Guided Walks
Kemi on YouTube
Watch our YouTube videos featuring Kemi
Uniquely Kemi
Here are some things that you must do and try in Kemi
History of Kemi
Kemi is a town located in northern Finland, on the coast of the Bothnian Bay, near the Swedish border. It was officially founded in 1869 by a decree from Emperor Alexander II of Russia, during a period when Finland was an autonomous Grand Duchy under Russian rule.
Kemi developed rapidly in the late 19th and early 20th centuries due to its strategic location and access to natural resources. Forestry played a major role in the town’s economy, with sawmills and later pulp and paper mills driving industrial growth. The deep-water port of Kemi also became an important hub for trade, particularly for exporting timber and importing goods.
During World War II, Kemi was occupied by German forces, and in 1944, it became a significant site during the Lapland War when Finnish troops fought to expel the Germans. The town sustained some damage, but was rebuilt in the post-war period.
Kemi Today
Kemi is best known for its industrial base, especially the pulp and paper industry, as well as for its unique tourist attractions, including the SnowCastle of Kemi, one of the largest snow structures in the world, and its Arctic scenery. The town has also explored new technologies, including bioeconomy and green energy projects.
Travel Information
Getting Here
Fly: Kemi has a small regional airport, Kemi-Tornio Airport. Finnair operates direct flights from Helsinki year-round (typically 1 1-hour 20-minute flight), usually 1–2 times daily. From the airport, you can reach the city by taxi (approximately 10 minutes, €20–25) or by pre-arranged shuttle (some hotels offer pickup services). If flights to Kemi are pricey or not fitting your schedule, the next closest airport is Oulu (1.5 hours drive south) which has more daily flights, or Rovaniemi (1.5 hours northeast). Both have good train and bus connections to Kemi if you fly there and transfer.
Drive: Kemi is located just north of Oulu on the E8 highway.
Train: Kemi sits on the main Finnish railway line, which runs along the west coast and then east to Lapland. From Helsinki, there are direct trains to Kemi every day. The most convenient option is the overnight sleeper train, known as the Santa Claus Express, which departs Helsinki in the evening and arrives in Kemi around 5:00 AM – a comfortable 9-hour journey with cozy sleeping cabins available.
By day, an InterCity or Pendolino train will take you from Helsinki to Kemi in approximately 6.5–7 hours.
Ferry: No ferry access.
Getting Around
Kemi is easy to walk around, though to get to the Snow Castle and Sampo from the train station requires a taxi.
Kemi is bike-friendly in warmer seasons. The city provides a City Bike rental system with several automatic stations.
Kemi has a local bus network, though services are infrequent compared to bigger cities. There are a few city bus lines that connect the centre to suburbs like Karihaara, Paattio, and to Keminmaa/Tornio. If you need to get to Keminmaa (e.g., to see the old church) or Tornio and don’t have a car, the Meri-Lapin Joukkoliikenne buses can get you there (check schedules online or at the Matkahuolto office near the station). B
Shops
Places to Eat
Cafes & Bakeries
Café Hertta and Café Miorita (which doubles as a patisserie) in the town centre offer delicious baked goods at a reasonable price.
Quick Bites
Jatan Burger and Kalle’s Burger are beloved local burger joints serving generously sized burgers and Finnish-style fast food at wallet-friendly prices.
Many places in Kemi offer lounas (weekday lunch specials) – for around €10–12, you get a hot buffet or set meal, often accompanied by salad, soup, main course, and coffee.
Reasonable Restaurants
One standout is Ravintola Wanha Satama (RestaurantOld Harbour) – also known as Sataman Krouwi – located in a refurbished harbour warehouse. It specialises in local fish, such as sautéed salmon and fried vendace, and has a rustic pub vibe with a log fire in winter and a patio in summer.
Ristorante Renna, within the Hotel Merihovi (a 1950s art deco hotel), is a step back in time with its vintage interior and classic Finnish menu; try the poronkäristys (sautéed reindeer with mashed potatoes and lingonberries) – a Lapland delicacy and local favourite.
Down by the marina, Restaurant Pursiseura (Yacht Club) offers excellent seafood – whitefish, perch or even pike-perch when in season – in a nautical atmosphere; non-members are welcome to dine, especially in summer when its terrace is lovely
High End & Unique Eats
Kemi isn’t overflowing with fine-dining establishments, but it has a couple of special options where you can splurge on a memorable meal. Top of the list is Restaurant Lumihiutale, the seaview restaurant at the SnowCastle Resort.
Lumihiutale (meaning “snowflake”) offers seasonally inspired Finnish cuisine with a modern twist. Expect dishes like seared reindeer fillet with juniper sauce, pan-fried Arctic char fish, and desserts featuring local berries – all plated beautifully. The menu rotates to showcase the freshest local produce throughout the year.
Another high-end choice is dining at the Seaside Glass Villas’ restaurant. The Seaside Glass Villas, Kemi’s famous glass-roofed igloo cabins, feature an intimate restaurant that caters to villa guests and the general public. It’s known for its Chef’s tasting menu featuring local delicacies – think king crab soup, willow grouse, and cloudberry sorbet – prepared with finesse. The real treat is the atmosphere: large windows overlooking the frozen Bothnian Bay (or midnight sun on summer nights). It’s a perfect spot for a romantic dinner. Reservations are recommended, especially if you’re not a villa guest.
Unique eateries
Inner Harbour (Sisäsatama)
The Inner Harbour (Sisäsatama) area along Rantabulevardi street has been lovingly restored into a vibrant social hub. Historic wooden storehouses have transformed into cozy eateries, pubs, and craft shops. In summer, outdoor terraces bloom with activity – locals call this harbourfront their living room, and you’ll see why. Stroll the promenade to watch sailboats bobbing in the marina and perhaps catch a free concert or pop-up market in the evenings. Two sailing club restaurants – Kemin Pursiseura and Meriklub – operate here, welcoming visitors to enjoy fresh fish dishes or a cold drink on the deck.
One favourite is Restaurant Sataman Valakia, a harbourside grill where you can savour local whitefish or a steak with a view of the yachts; it’s known for its relaxed atmosphere and “million-dollar” sunset views across the bay.
Nearby, the Harbour Café Nuotta serves coffee and pastries by day, and Rantamakasiini offers casual dining in a converted warehouse by night. Families will also find a mini-golf course, a playground, and an ice cream kiosk – perfect for a summer afternoon treat.
Places to Stay
Hostels & Camping
Villa Kemi Guesthouse is a top pick – a cosy hostel in a wooden villa about 1 km from the centre, offering dorm beds and private rooms at very affordable rates. It features a communal kitchen, free Wi-Fi, and friendly owners; it’s basic but clean and located in a local neighbourhood.
Click here to view rates & book
Another budget-friendly option is the LumiLinna Camping (SnowCastle Camping) in the summer, which offers a camping area and caravan park located right next to the SnowCastle area.
B&Bs & Guesthouses
Boutique Hotel Kemi 1932 is an interesting mid-range/boutique crossover, styled in a refurbished 1930s railway building located at Rautatiekatu 1, near the station. The studios feature mini-kitchens and a blend of retro and modern decor.
Chains & Mid-Range
Lumihotelli is part of the snow castle, though you can also stay in the heated rooms or villas by the water.
The iconic Hotel Merihovi is a favourite – this 4-star historic hotel has hosted Finnish presidents and movie stars in its time, and stepping into its lobby is like stepping back in time to the 1950s, with marble floors and chandeliers. Rooms have been updated with modern amenities but retain a vintage charm; ask for a higher floor room for views of the town. The Merihovi’s central location is perfect for walking everywhere. Another reliable choice is Scandic Kemi, a modern hotel right by the central pedestrian street.
For something more intimate, consider Hotel Toivola, a family-run hotel in a quiet residential area 2 km from downtown. It has a homely feel, with tidy rooms and a garden with BBQ and sauna that guests can book – lovely in summer. Hotel Yöpuu, meaning “night tree,” is another small hotel located on Kemi’s outskirts, known for its friendly service and a nice on-site restaurant, Restaurant Yöpuu, which is also popular among locals. It’s a bit dated in decor, but clean and with large rooms – and often cheaper than the city centre ones, so a good value if you have a car (parking is free).
Click here to view rates & book
There is also a Scandic hotel here, if you prefer chain hotels. Click here to view rates & book.
High End & Unique Properties
The most famous are the Seaside Glass Villas at the SnowCastle Resort. These are individual modern “igloo” cabins with glass walls and ceilings located on the seashore, allowing you to sleep under the stars (and hopefully under the Northern Lights in winter!). Each Glass Villa is stylishly furnished with a kitchenette, bathroom, and a comfy bed positioned for sky-gazing. In winter, you might see the aurora or just the moonlight reflecting on the snow; in summer, you can watch the sunset that seamlessly turns into sunrise. Some villas even come with private saunas or outdoor hot tubs, offering the ultimate relaxation experience.
Rates are high (especially in winter), but breakfast at Lumihiutale and entry to SnowExperience365 are often included, adding value.
Equally cool (literally) is spending a night in the SnowHotel – yes, inside the SnowCastle’s snow rooms. This is more for the adventure-seeker: temperatures in the snow suite stay around -5 °C (regardless of the cold outside), and you sleep in a thermal sleeping bag on a bed built of ice and snow. It’s surprisingly snug and quiet, and you’ll earn bragging rights for life. The SnowHotel usually opens from late January to early March. Guests are given a room at the warm adjacent hotel to keep luggage and to shower in the morning, and a hot berry juice nightcap before bedding down on ice. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience rather than a luxury stay, but definitely a splurge in terms of uniqueness.
Click here to view rates & book
For a peaceful nature retreat, a splurge option is Pohjanranta Farm & Vineyard in nearby Keminmaa. Here, you can book a suite overlooking the Kemijoki River and enjoy their private riverside sauna and jacuzzi. The vineyard produces a surprisingly good blackcurrant wine; a bottle in your room with local chocolates can be arranged for a romantic touch. It’s not ultra-modern luxury, but the setting and bespoke service make it high-end in experience. Lastly, those wanting absolute privacy can rent Savotta’s VIP Cottage – a premium log villa hidden in the woods, with its own sauna building and outdoor hot tub under the stars. It’s like having your own piece of Lapland for a few days.
Sunrise/Sunset & Weather Averages
January
Sunrise: 10:12am
Sunset: 2:50pm
Average Temperature: -9.6C (14.7F)
February
Sunrise: 8:27am
Sunset: 4:45pm
Average Temperature: -9.7C (14.5F)
March
Sunrise: 6:39am
Sunset: 6:22pm
Average Temperature: -5.4C (22F)
April
Sunrise: 5:41am
Sunset: 9:04pm
Average Temperature: 0.4C (33F)
May
Sunrise: 3:46am
Sunset: 10:53pm
Average Temperature: 6.8C (44F)
June
Sunrise: 1:46am
Sunset: 11:57pm
Average Temperature: 12.8C (55F)
July
Sunrise: 3:05am
Sunset: 11:46pm
Average Temperature: 16C (61F)
August
Sunrise: 5:02am
Sunset: 9:47pm
Average Temperature: 14C (57F)
September
Sunrise: 6:43am
Sunset: 7:48pm
Average Temperature: 8.8C (48F)
October
Sunrise: 8:18am
Sunset: 5:55pm
Average Temperature: 2.4C (36F)
November
Sunrise: 9:07am
Sunset: 3:04pm
Average Temperature: -2.6C (27F)
December
Sunrise: 10:42am
Sunset: 1:51pm
Average Temperature: -6.6C (20F)