Visiting Gildeskål’s Historic Church Site
The Gildeskål Old Church Site was one of the hidden surprises for me when I was on the Coastal Road from Brønnøysund to Bodø. I love historic sites in Norway, and I was completely unaware of the religious and historic important in this tiny remote settlement just south of Bodø. The location is just so beautiful and the complex itself is very interesting, so I recommend adding this to your coastal road-trip!
Here is some historic information about Gildeskål to help you plan your visit.
Norway's Coastal Road
Gildeskål is located on the Fv17, also known as Norway’s coastal road. You can find my guide to the Fv17 by clicking the link below.
In this article...
Historic Importance of the Gildeskål Church Site
This complex (Gildeskål kirkested in Norwegian) is incredibly well-preserved and is generally regarded as one of the best preserved church sites in Northern Norway. The complex consists of a medieval stone church from the 1200s, the new church from 1881, the old rectory from the 1800s and two storehouses.
The site history covers a period of over 1000 years. It is believed that the site was a gathering place in the pagan times. In fact, the ‘Gilde’ in Gildeskål means ‘feast’, so it’s likely that a pagan feast hall was located where the church or farm is today. Objects found here date back to the Viking Age, and the church was likely built by Vikings to crush the old pagan religion.
Now let’s talk about each of the buildings.
Gildeskål Old Church
The highlight is (of course) the medieval stone church called ‘Gildeskål Old Church’, which is generally regarded as the best-preserved of the northern churches built in the Middle Ages.
It’s believed the first church was built in wood in the 11th century, around the time Norway was becoming Christianised. It was common to build Christian churches on pagan worshipping sites in an attempt to convert the pagans.
The church was later rebuilt as a stone church. This indicates how important the region of Gildeskål must’ve been, because stone was an incredibly expensive material to build with. Therefore, it was only used for the most important churches. Think of stave churches – they were built in wood and the only surviving ones are in very remote locations, where there was no need to rebuilt them in stone.
It’s not known exactly when the stone church was built. After all, the church was first mentioned in written sources in 1589. However, the construction techniques on the oldest wall indicate that the church was built between 1130 and 1160. It is believed that the church is one of two stone churches King Øystein (1088-1123) had built when he travelled north in 1114.
The church is like other stone churches built around the same time. It is built in a simple Romanesque style with arches and walls that are almost 1.5 metres thick.
There are carved dragons heads on the ridge of the roofs that may have been a way of warding off pagan spirits, as seen on stave churches.
The church did have a dome, but it was removed in 1890 when it was in danger of falling down.
Cemetery
The cemetery wall around the church is very interesting. Both it and the church are built in marble and mica slate that comes from the local area. The cemetery has been expanded many times, most recently in 1888. It is estimated that up to 10,000 people are buried in this cemetery.
Church Interior
Because the church was closed in the 1880s to make way for the new church, the interior has been incredibly well-preserved. For example, on three of the benches are the names of the farms in the village painted on them.
At the far end of the aisle is a narrow bench called “the poor member” and was for church members who didn’t have their own farm.
Hanging in the church is a ship from 1762. It has the name ‘Josva’ painted on it and is a model of a frigate that was a ship of the line in the Danish/Norwegian fleet.
New Gildeskål Church
In the mid-19th century, a law was passed in Norway that churches had to seat 30% of the congregation. Instead of expanded on the old stone church, a new wooden church was built next to it. The church was consecrated in 1881 and is built in a longhouse Gothic style. It sits on a hill overlooking the fjord.
Inside the new church is the altarpiece from the old church; it dates back to 1713. On the ceiling, artist Harald Sund has painted a starry sky.
Elias Blix
The church is also known as the psalm composer Elias Blix’s old church. He was born here in Gildeskål in 1836. Elias Blix was a Norwegian theologian, hymn writer and politician. He wrote many hymns and was responsible for translating the New Testament into Nynorsk. He was a proponent of the Nynorsk language and wrote hymns in the language.
Storehouses at the Rectory
Rectory
In the old rectory we find Gildeskål’s collection of relics from the old settlement. The main building is a 33m longhouse built in the 18th century. All the old buildings are listed. It is still used as a service residence for the parish priest.
The two stone houses adjacent to the building are from the middle of the 18th century.
Memorials on the cultural trail, plus the incredible view!
Walk the Cultural Trail
There is a short cultural trail that goes from the old church down to the waterfront. Along the way, you can see burial mounds, old stone cairns, and the old path that people would take from the piers up to the church. The flora in the area is known for being unique for this far north; there are a number of orchid species here.
The view from the new church is lovely – you can see islands and even shipwrecks!
- Gildeskål Old Church
- Gildeskål Main church
- Gildeskål Rectory
- Gildeskål Village meeting place
- Old Church Stone pathway towards Inndyr
- Burial Mounds
- Boat piers
- Jetty
- Stone Pier
- Eider House
A very detailed website for the cultural trail has been made, which you can view here: https://gildeskal.vandringen.no/no
The Village Inndyr
The Gildeskål Church Site is located just north of the village Inndyr. Inndyr was historically an important shipping port. It is located on the old shipping channel and has a shipyard with a slipway for larger boats, a mechanical workshop, concrete mixing plant and several small businesses.
It is known that Inndyr has been a lively community since the Middle Ages. The Inndyr Homestead is of great importance for the village as it was both a residence for the nobility as well as a productive farm.
Another building of interest is Angellgården, which is in the centre of the village. The house is gorgeous; it dates from 1590 and was originally built as a dowager house. The building was moved to its present location in 1760 and it was extended.
You can find more information about the unique architecture of Angellgården here: https://arkitekturguide.uit.no/items/show/1085
You’ll pass it on the road to Gildeskål Church, but note that the building is now painted red (in the pictures it’s yellow).
The Church Site Today
Today the Gildeskål Church Site is managed by the Nordlands Museum, which opens the properties during the summer months for visitors.
Visiting Gildeskål
The site is located approximately 3km (2 miles) north of Inndyr. It is about 10km (6 miles) off the Fv17, which is the Coastal Tourist Road running from Brønnøysund to Bodø. Signs on the highway indicate when to turn left and make your way towards Gildeskål.
The complex is open from mid-June to mid-August daily from around 11am to 4pm.
You can visit the museum site here: https://nordlandsmuseet.no/no/museumsanlegg/gildeskaal
If you want to spend some time in Gildeskål, here are some places that you can visit: https://kystriksveien.no/places/gildeskaal/highlights/?lang=en
There is a parking lot on the property close to the old church.
Norway's Coastal Road
Gildeskål is located on the Fv17, also known as Norway’s coastal road. You can find my guide to the Fv17 by clicking the link below.
