Norway in a Nutshell... in a nutshell
Anyone planning a trip to Norway will come across the term ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ at least once in their research. It is typically regarded as the number one thing to do in the country, in fact.
When I started as a guide eight years ago, I would often have to lead groups on the Norway in a Nutshell route. Even still today as a tour leader, Norway in a Nutshell is an essential part of our tours across Norway. I can’t even count the number of times I’ve been on the Flåm Railway. I’ve done Norway in a Nutshell in all its forms, both on my own, with private tours and with larger groups. I’ve done it all throughout the year and dealt with cancellations, delays, and bad weather. Am I jaded? I don’t think so. If anyone came to visit me in Bergen, I’d probably recommend they do Norway in a Nutshell. I may just not join them!
I often get asked about the trip. How should it be done? How does it work? I’ve read many blogs that have done it once or twice and then provide feedback based on that, and I find a lot of information online is wrong or misleading. So, I’ve put together this quick guide. It’s a no-frills, straight-to-the-point guide based on experience of having done it at least 100 times.
Enjoy!
In this article...
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What is Norway in a Nutshell?
Norway in a Nutshell is the brand name for a range of self-guided itineraries that aims to show you the best of Norwegian nature in a short amount of time, and without climbing mountains. The itineraries are organised on public transport and put together by a company called Fjord Tours. When you book one of the itineraries, they provide you with the public transport tickets in a nice little package to complete the itinerary. There’s no guide leading you around or special private chauffeur; you are riding public transport with everyone else.
The various itineraries
There are a number of different variations of the journey you can do. The classic trip, or the most popular one, starts and ends in Bergen. It goes like this:
Bergen to Voss on the public train
Voss to Gudvangen on the public bus
Gudvangen to Flåm on the scenic fjord cruise
Flåm to Myrdal on the Flåm Railway
Myrdal to Bergen on the public train
The round trip from Bergen takes around 10-12 hours depending on the day and season.
It is also possible to start or end the trip in Oslo and do it as a day trip to Bergen. However, that is a very long day and should be broken up with a night in Flåm.
Highlights of the Trip
Fjord cruise Gudvangen to Flåm
The fjord cruise
The fjord cruise is my absolute favourite part of the journey. The ferries they use are the electric ferries that have won design prizes for how effortlessly they suit the fjord environment. The Nærøyfjord and Aurlandsfjord are spectacular, too. Be outside for as much of this journey as possible!
Scenery on the Flåm Railway
The Flåm Railway
The Flåm Railway has been voted one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. The railway climbs from sea level to 860 metres above sea level through the Flåm Railway, and the scenery is incredible. The railway makes one photostop by a waterfall, too.
Myrdal Station
Myrdal is not accessible by road, and the scenery here is rugged and almost above the tree line, giving an Arctic feel.
Bergen Railway
The Bergen Railway is Northern Europe’s highest stretch of railway and crosses mountains and plateaus.
Note that some blogs still say that the trip includes Stalheimskleiva. It does not! The road closed during COVID and will remain closed as it is heavily damaged and no longer suitable for vehicles.
Scenery on the Flåm Railway
Booking the Trip
Why book through FjordTours?
Almost every blog will tell you that it’s cheaper to book these tickets on your own, and that’s true. It is cheaper to book the exact same route on your own. However, the extra cost of booking through FjordTours is for the ease of doing it all in the one spot. For some, that may be worth the extra cost rather than sitting down and figuring it out yourself.
In some cases, the price difference is negligible (100-200NOK) considering the extra hassle.
Why book through an agent or third party?
If you want to do the standard route, book it through FjordTours. If you are looking to make a lot of customisations, then I’d recommend booking through a third party. Primarily someone who knows the area well and can help you. Someone like me!
I do not recommend booking a ‘private, customised package’ through somewhere like TripAdvisor or GetYourGuide. Those are, in most cases, a total rip off. You will still be doing the exact same route as those who booked through FjordTours. The only cases where the private packages are worth it are if they have added a ton of extra stops and features, and drive you in a nice vehicle.
How to book it yourself
If you want to save some money and book it yourself, here’s how to do it:
Trains: Book the trains through vy.no
Bus: Book the bus through skyss.no
Ferry & Flåm Railway: Book these through norwaysbest.com
Just note that you can’t book far in advance for the train and bus, so you have to wait until closer to the trip.
Another advantage of doing it yourself is that you can add extra activities, such as a zipline tour, bus trip to Stegastein viewpoint, and so on. Visit the website norwaysbest.com for ideas on what to do.
Fjord cruise Gudvangen to Flåm
Isn't this touristy?
Yes. This is by far the most popular thing to do in Western Norway in summer, so expect to be sharing everything with hundreds of other people. It can become chaotic in some places in the peak season.
If you have the time, try customising the trip so you don’t travel at the busiest times (i.e. the middle of the day) and overnight in places. Once the cruise ships leave, many of the places (especially Flåm) become practically empty. An agent can also help you with this!
If you want to avoid crowds, I would recommend doing something like Hardanger in a Nutshell instead. You don’t see the ‘famous’ spots, but the scenery is just as beautiful.
Bergen Railway
Navigating the journey
Is there information along the way?
On the ferry and Flåm Railway they do have visual or audio guides, but for the rest of the journey there is no additional information.
How easy is it to get between each means of transport?
Very easy! The most confusing will be in Voss when you look for the buses, but you simply have to follow signs through the station towards the buses. There are orange pillars listing each bus number and destination, so you just have to find the one heading towards Gudvangen. Everywhere else is very self-explanatory and the walk between each spot won’t take more than two minutes.
Get the Guide!
We have a printer-friendly guide to the popular Norway in a Nutshell trip. This guide includes information about each point of interest, including historical overview and images.
You can find the guide over on our store.
Should I just use a rental car?
No. The two big highlights of the trip are the fjord cruise and the Flåm Railway, and both of those become a hassle if you are using a rental car. However, getting from Bergen to Gudvangen is nice with a rental car, though it follows the exact same route as the train. If you use a rental car, park in Gudvangen and take the fjord cruise to Flåm and then the railway as a round trip. You can then book a bus back to Gudvangen. See? It sounds strange!
I love road-tripping in Norway – most of The Hidden North is dedicated to road-trips! – but if you want to see Norway in a Nutshell, you should do it through public transport. Use the car for other special places in the fjord region.
Practical Information
On board the Flåm Railway
Services on board
Wifi: The train from Bergen to Voss and then Myrdal to Bergen should have Wifi, but it doesn’t always work. The ferry has Wifi.
Phone reception: You may lose phone reception for stretches of the Flåm Railway, but otherwise everywhere else has good signal.
Toilets: Can be found on the trains and ferry. There are also restrooms in Flåm and inside the station in Myrdal.
Food: No food on the trains for sale. The ferry does have some options, but if you have time in Flåm I recommend heading to the bakery to pick up supplies. Myrdal station is open in summer and has a few options for sale.
Luggage transportation
If you are travelling Bergen to Oslo, I recommend using the service Porter Service to transport your luggage from one city to another. You can take luggage on everything, but it’s such a hassle. The service is affordable and works very well!
Photo stop on the Flåm Railway
What to wear
You will be indoors most of the day, but on the ferry and once on the Flåm Railway you can go outside to take pictures, so a good coat is recommended.
Where should you spend the night?
I recommend either the Fretheim Hotel in Flåm or the Stalheim Hotel.
Flåm Railway in winter
Does the trip run in winter?
Yes! In fact, winter is much nicer in my opinion. Less crowds, snowy mountains. Sure, it’s cold – but you’re in the north! Just keep an eye on the schedules; everything runs less frequently in the low season. You also won’t see waterfalls in winter.
When is the best time to go?
I love going in May. There is still snow on the mountains, but the waterfalls are running strong from snowmelt. Flowers bloom in May and trees get their leaves. The mass crowds of tourists start coming in late May/early June. September/October is also wonderful – there’s still waterfalls, but now we have the beautiful autumn colours and less crowds.
What if I want a guide?
It’s important to note that it is a not a guided trip! It is a set of tickets and is more of a self-guided trip. The tickets don’t include seat reservation, but that’s not possible on almost every means of transport (except for the train between Bergen and Voss and Myrdal and Bergen). Honestly, you don’t need to spend a couple extra thousand NOK to have a guide with you. Get our self-guided booklet instead!
Which side is best?
Bergen to Voss: sit on the left
Voss to Gudvangen: sit on the right
Gudvangen to Flåm cruise: be outside!!
Flåm Railway to Myrdal: sit on the right
Myrdal to Bergen: sit on the left for the first half. Sit on the right for the second half.
That's all!
That’s everything I could think of for this guide. If you have any questions or require any additional information or help, please write in the comments below.
Be sure to visit our travel guide pages for all the towns mentioned in this article.
Bergen Travel Guide
We think Bergen is the best city in the world! Be sure to spend a good amount of time in Bergen and enjoy everything this city has to offer.
Oslo Travel Guide
Oslo is Norway’s capital and a natural place to visit on any trip here.
Get the Guide!
We have a printer-friendly guide to the popular Norway in a Nutshell trip. This guide includes information about each point of interest, including historical overview and images.
You can find the guide over on our store.
