Hidden Secrets at Historic Kinsarvik Church
When driving along Highway 13 between Eidfjord and Odda, you’ll pass through the village of Kinsarvik. You wouldn’t really know it was a village, let alone an important Viking-era settlement, because it has now been transformed into something of a holiday park with water activities for kids and cabins to rent. But look a little closer and you’ll see a stone church down by the water. This is one of the oldest churches in the region and hints at the historic importance of Kinsarvik.
I find the Kinsarvik church fascinating. Tucked away by the fjord, this small unassuming church carries almost 1,000 years of history. So, when you are doing your road-trip, be sure to stop by the church and admire its uniqueness!
Here is some information about the Kinsarvik Church.
The Rv13 Highway
Kinsarvik is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the Rv13 by clicking the link below.
In this article...
The Earliest Church
Kinsarvik Church is the oldest stone church in the Hardanger region and used to function as the main church for the region. It is strategically located at the junction of the Hardangerfjord and the Sørfjorden, which leads to Odda, so locals could row their boats into Kinsarvik and attend church.
The earliest records of the church date back to 1298, but the church wasn’t built then. The stone church isn’t even the first church on the site; it’s believed a wooden church stood here around 1050. The wooden church was likely a ‘post church’, which is the predecessor to the stave church. The difference between them is that the post church has its beams going directly into the ground, while stave churches rest on stone foundations. Post churches don’t survive anymore because, well, putting posts directly into the ground meant the wood would rot. Stave churches are an evolution of the post church in that regard because the stone protects the wood from rotting.
The stone church was built to replace the old wooden church around 1160, and remains of the wooden church have been found underneath. Building in stone was very expensive and only reserved for churches of importance. Think of Stavanger, Bergen, Trondheim and Oslo with their well-preserved stone churches. These were all major cities. So, using stone at Kinsarvik indicates that this was an important place.
Church Style
The church is built in a Romanesque style with a rectangular nave, and the foundation walls are about 1.5m (4ft 11 inches) wide.
Archaeological excavations have found there was a fire in the church around the year 1180. This was around the time of the Norwegian Civil War, and there were two major groups – the Birkebeiner and the Bagler – fighting against each other. It is documented that the Birkeners ravaged the area, so it may be them who caused the fire.
The choir was built after the fire, likely around the 13th century.
Exterior Detailing
If you look at the church, you’ll notice that all of the portals, window openings and walls have been retained from the Middle Ages.
Something that is curious is the window high up on the west gable. It is a window leading up to the church attic. It is here that they used to hoist the local ship sails and masts to store during the winters.
Renovation
The church had its last major renovation in 1880 during a time when ancient Norwegian sites were being restored to their former appearance. At Kinsarvik Church, much of the old furniture was removed and the church went back to its medieval feel.
Inside the Church
The church has many unique interior qualities. The first is the large number of cavities that can be found in the church walls. There were used as places to hide valuables, but Kinsarvik Church has an unusually high number. Considering Kinsarvik used to be a Viking settlement, maybe they had to deal with regular raids?
Another important item inside the church is the antemensalet (decorations in front of the altar). The one at Kinsarvik Church is considered one of the most valuable paintings of North European medieval art. It shows the saviour on the cross and the crucifixion, and above the cross is written “Jesus of Nazareth, King of the Jews”. Around the edge is “Neither of God nor man is this image, as you see. But it is an image of both God and man”. The painter was bad at Latin and made several mistakes. The original can be see at the Cultural History Museum in Bergen, but a copy is inside the church.
However, my favourite part of the interior of the church is the artwork on the walls. I’ve been lucky enough to go inside Kinsarvik Church, and I was taken away by the interior artwork. The church used to be whitewashed, but someone scraped away some of the plaster. A piece of painting from the Middle Ages came to light.
The painting on the south wall shows a bishop and is painted from floor to ceiling. Meanwhile, on the north wall, there is the archangel Michael. Underneath is a devil who is trying to tip the scales over to their side with a boat shake.
Michael and the weight of the soul were a common motif in Danish chalk painting in the Middle Ages, but this is the only one of its kind in Norway. I remember the priest telling us that he wished they’d remove it because modern churchgoers don’t exactly want to see a giant devil, but I kind of hope they keep it!
Church Legends
There is a prediction that the church will collapse during a service. This almost happened on the 7th of May 1865, right after Reverend Irgrens had finished his sermon the church began to shake. Cracks in the walls widened and chalk sprinkled down from the walls. People panicked and tried to get out, and some were injured (though not seriously). The pastor then used it to give a speech that no one can escape from Gods will.
Another event that happened here was in December 1793, when a major flood hit the region. At Kinsarvik Church, a large part of the cemetery was washed away by water and the coffins floated out into the fjord. Legend says that the Engel Simonson Ringøy, who died in 1739, floated ashore in his boat dock on Ringøy. The coffins were brought back in and placed under the floor of the church. Under the floor of the choir is a crypt where parish priest Løgit, his wife and children lie.
Visiting Kinsarvik Church
Unfortunately the church is not usually open to the public, but they do host special concerts and events there. Otherwise, it is possible to park by the church and admire it from the outside.
You can view events on their website here: https://ullensvang.kyrkjer.no/Kyrkjelydane/Kinsarvik
As you can see, Kinsarvik Church is a fascinating historic building that is tucked away in this resort village.
It’s easy to visit here if you are taking the ferry across to Utne – the ferry is about a 1 minute walk from the church. Click here for my article about Utne.
Have you visited the church? Let me know in the comments!
The Rv13 Highway
Kinsarvik is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the Rv13 by clicking the link below.
